BaliSavvy The Official American Express速 Guide to the Island
the
Best of Bali
The Kunja Villas and spa
The Kunja Villas & Spa is located in Bali’s upscale Seminyak area just a few minutes stroll from one of the island’s most famous stretches of golden sand beaches and numerous fine dining restaurants and shopping boutiques. The Kunja features 18 fully serviced villas; secluded from the outside world and offers friends, couples and families the comforts of home with all the luxurious amenities and services of a five star hotel.
Jl Lebak Sari No 8 Kerobokan Bali
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T 62 361 733 130
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F 62 361 733 128
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reservations@thekunja.com
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www.thekunja.com
BALI’S BEST DEALS FOR AMERICAN EXPRESS® CARDMEMBERS Enjoy Island-Wide Travel, Leisure, Dining & Shopping Offers with American Express®.
PANDAWAS VILLAS, Gianyar Luxurious and private residences on extensive property. • 20% savings on published rates for 3 nights stay • 30% savings on published rates for 5 nights stay • 40% savings on published rates for 10 nights stay T. +62 361 971 877 | E. INFO@PANDAWAS-VILLAS.com
Kayumanis Nusa Dua Private Villa & Spa A secluded enclave of luxuriously appointed pavilions. • 30% savings on published rates • 25% savings on total bill (except alcohol) at Piasan • 25% savings on all spa treatments T. +62 361 770 777 | E. nusadua@kayumanis.com
Rama Candidasa Resort & Spa Beachside resort in East Bali. • 40% savings on published rates incl. 15 minutes welcome massage and entitlement to join resort activities • 15% savings on total food bill at Garpu Restaurant T. +62 363 41974 | E. INFO@RAMACANDIDASAHOTEL.COM
Hotel Tugu Bali, Canggu Romantic boutique hotel by the beach. • 20% savings on published rates • 20% savings on total food bill at Bale Sutra • 10% savings on total food bill at Tugu Dining • 10% savings on treatments at Waroeng Djamoe Spa T. +62 361 731 701 | E. bali@tuguhotels.com
FOR MORE GREAT DEALS, SEE AMERICAN EXPRESS SELECTS OFFERS ON P.108 SM
Essential ISLAND INFO TOURIST INFORMATION
EMERGENCY SERVICES
NEWSPAPERS
Bali Tourism Board Jl. Raya Puputan 41, Renon, Denpasar T: +62 361 235600
Police: 110 Fire Department: 113 Ambulance: 118 Search & Rescue: 111/115/151
Bali Post Bali’s leading newspaper written in Bahasa Indonesia www.balipost.com
Bali Government Tourist Office Jl. S. Parman, Niti Mandala – Renon, Denpasar Phone: +62 361 222 387 www.dipardabali.com
Bali International Medical Center (BIMC) (24-hour) Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100X T: +62 361 761263 www.bimcbali.com
Bali Times Bali’s weekly English-language newspaper. www.thebalitimes.com
MAGAZINES/WEBSITES TRANSPORT Bali Car Rentals Jl. Tunjung Sari Permai 20, Denpasar (24-hour ) T: +62 811 380699, +62 361 418 381 www.balicarrentals.com
International SOS Jl.Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X T: +62 361 710505 www.sos-bali.com Ubud Clinic (24 Hours) Jl. Raya Campuhan 36 T: +62 361 974911
TRAC Astra Rent A Car Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai, Jimbaran T: +62 361 703 333 Jl. Ngurah Rai International Airport, Intl. Arrivals. T: +62 361 75 3744
Bali 911 Dental Clinic Jl. Pattimura No. 9, Denpasar T: +62 361 249749
Airport Taxi T: +62 361 751 011 ext. 1611
Central Post Office Jl. Raya Puputan, Renon T: +62 361 223566
Bali Taxi Phone: +62 361 701 111
POSTAL SERVICES
Kuta Post Office Jl. Raya Kuta, Gg. Selamat. T: +62 361 754012
MONEY American Express PT. Bank Danamon Indonesia Jl. Legian 87, Kuta T: +62 361 757 510
6 | BaliSavvy
Fedex Bali Jl By Pas Ngurah Rai 72, Kuta T: +62 361 701727 DHL Jl. Legian 451, Kuta T: +62 361 762138
The Bud Magazine The Yak Magazine Stylish guides to Ubud and Seminyak (www.theyakmag. com). Hello Bali Magazine A lighthearted monthly look at island life (www. hellobalimagazine.com). FRV Magazine Bi-monthly focusing on restaurants and accommodation in Bali and the region (www. finerestaurantsandvillas.com). The Beat Magazine Bali An entertainment & gig guide for the island (www.beatmag.com). Bali Style Magazine Home living and decor magazine (www.balistylemag. com). Bali Discovery News, practical tips, and special offers: www.balidiscovery.com
TA K I N G L U X U R Y TO A N E W L E V E L The Royal Collection is a unique brand of villa living, featuring three worldclass properties: The Kayana, The Samaya Seminyak and The Samaya Ubud. Set within beautiful tropical gardens on Seminyak Beach and the Ayung River, each property combines a unique ambience with a luxurious touch in products and service. With a private plunge pool, spa and full butler service, these private boutique villas offer a secluded sanctuary for our most discerning guests.
The Samaya | Seminyak – Bali T. + 62 361 731 149. F + 62 361 731 203. E. info@thesamayabali.com www.thesamayabali.com
The Samaya | Ubud – Bali T. + 62 361 973 606 .F + 62 361 973 610 E. info@thesamayabali.com www.thesamayabali.com
Reservation Centre: Jl. Melawai VII No. 6-8. Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan T. +62 21 270 0027.F. +62 21 270 0350 . E. reservation@santika.com
The Kayana | Seminyak – Bali T. + 62 361 847 6628 .F + 62 361 847 6633 E. info@thekayana.com www.thekayana.com
From the Publisher Dear valued American Express® Cardmembers, Continuing our longtime commitment to promoting Bali as one of the World’s Best Islands*, we are delighted to present Bali Savvy, the official American Express Guide to Bali. This bimonthly guidebook will pave the way for more information about enticing attractions and exciting activities at Bali’s main tourist destinations. As a complete guidebook, it undoubtedly has the potential to assist the government in promoting Bali as a major tourist destination for both domestic and international travelers. It also guides you to many fine hotels, restaurants, retail outlets, and spas that willingly accept your American Express Card. In this edition, we have also handpicked an array of attractive savings and privileges that are available across the island through the American Express SelectsSM program. So, indulge yourself with the Card whilst you are in Bali and you will find memories that are crafted every day!
Sincerely, PT Bank Danamon Indonesia, Tbk.
*Voted one of The World’ Best Islands 2010 by Travel + Leisure magazine. PT Bank Danamon Indonesia, Tbk. (“Danamon”) is a leading private bank in Indonesia and, effective September 1, 2006, has become the sole issuer and acquirer of the American Express Cards in Indonesia under an independent operator agreement.
From the EDITORS Welcome to the first edition of Bali Savvy, the official American Express Guide to one of the world’s favorite islands. Every two months, we aim to bring you fresh information, images, and ideas to inspire you for your next visit, in a compact guide that will be a trusted Bali travel companion on every trip. We look forward to hearing about your experiences, whether as business or leisure travelers, as well as your thoughts on stories you’d like to see within Bali Savvy throughout 2011, and the best deals that you’ve enjoyed while on the road. So do drop us a line, and in the meantime, enjoy Bali!
Cover image: Alila Villas Uluwatu
KABAR MEDIA PT Sentra Aktifitas Jakarta Jl. Kemang Selatan VIII, 67K Jakarta 12730, Indonesia Editor Jan Russell jan@kabarmag.com Contributors: Pratiwi Sasotya Jeane Seah Sarah Dougherty Advertising & Promotions: Scorpio Arie Wibowo arie@kabarmag.com
kabar media
Custom Projects: Avi Hazuria info@balisavvy.com m. +6281908285032
contents Bali Savvy Edition 1, 2011
<BALI FAVORITES> Bali brands to watch, from resorts and restaurants to fashion and jewelry (p.14) SAVVY GUIDES listings by area, from accommodation and activities to food and drink (p.35)
<BALI INSIDER Susi Johnston: ‘My Bali’ p.90
DINING> a selection of tasty morsels from the island’s thriving culinary scene p.102
+
This edition’s American Express SelectsSM Offers (p.108)
IMAGES (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) COURTESY OF: ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU, AMANDARI, METIS, NIKKO RESORT, SUSI JOHNSTON.
INTRODUCING
BaliSavvy The New Bimonthly American Express® G uide
your savvy companion on every Bali visit* • Island News & Agenda • Savvy Listings • Best of Bali • Bali Savvy People • Bali for Business • Art & Culture • Island Explorer • Cardmember Deals *Free to American Express® Cardmembers.
For more information, email info@balisavvy.com For the latest Bali Savvy Updates visit www.balisavvy.com and join our mailing list.
©Elena Román
Contact us by e-mail: info@balisavvy.com
A secluded stretch of beach at the Amankila resort in Manggis, East Bali. 14 | BaliSavvy
9 Bali
Favorites Bali has been an island of inspiration for designers, hoteliers, entrepreneurs, restaurateurs, and a multitude of others who come here to release their creative energies. Here we take a look at some of the best brands that have thrived on the island over the past few decades.
BaliSavvy | 15
ALILA the new Bali Style
Mark Edleson, president of Alila Hotels and Resorts, is used to being at the cutting edge: he was there at the inception of Amandari, Mandara Spa (another hugely successful Bali-born brand, with 70 spas in 17 countries), and he brought the GHM hotel management 16 | BaliSavvy
brand to Indonesia with the then-groundbreaking Chedi Club in Bandung -- all projects that proved to be ahead of the hospitality curve. Key to the Alila brand is a genuine dedication to sustainability. Hailed as a pioneer of environmentally-con-
scious practices, Mark is remarkably pragmatic. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Most of our hotels are resorts, and we consciously try to put our resorts in places of either cultural interest of natural beauty. So it behoves us to do what we can to sustain those physical and social environments.â&#x20AC;?
AGENDA
CIRE restaurant at Alila Villas Uluwatu epitomizes the bold design aesthetic of the property: walls are decorated with 2,500 antique batik stamps, while cleverly placed screens and art pieces lend a feeling of privacy to each discrete dining area.
AUG | SEPT | OCT 2010
18 | BaliSavvy
Alila Villas Uluwatu is the first resort in Bali designed to achieve Green Globe certification, the highest level of environmentally sustainable design. Stunningly beautiful, it combines elements of traditional Bali with a very modern aesthetic and displays a sensitivity that should serve as a model for new developments on the island. www.alilahotels.com/ uluwatu BaliSavvy | 19
SANUR
BEST OF BALI
KU DE TA place to be
Bali Savvy >> 20 20 | BaliSavvy
The icon of Seminyakâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s social scene has just celebrated its tenth birthday, and boy is it aging well... BaliSavvy | 21
Ku De Ta
“It’s never looked better,” says Arthur (‘Arturo’) Chondros, founder and force behind KU DE TA. “We keep fine-tuning and trying to offer a better experience year on year.” The experience is composed of many elements, prepared with an attention to detail that strives to get things just right, while looking effortless – it’s about the food, the drinks, the music, the legendary parties, but above all it’s about an atmosphere that embraces no matter what the time or the mood. Perhaps Arturo describes it best: “You can sit here in 25 different places and get a different feeling at a different time of day – you can come in at 8 o’clock in the morning or you can
come in at 3 o’clock in the morning. You can have 5 bucks in your pocket or 5,000 bucks in your pocket. You can come and be a voyeur and sit around at sunset and have a beer at the bar and sit there for four hours and watch the procession go by. It’s entertainment, more than anything else. And it stimulates your senses, your eyes, your ears...it’s not a restaurant, I don’t see it as a restaurant – it’s more than that.” www.kudeta.net
Arturo Chondros, founder of KU DE TA. 22 | BaliSavvy
BaliSavvy | 23
AMAN a redefinition of luxury
“You can’t copy an Aman. People try that, and they all fail,” travel titan Lyn Middlehurst told the WSJ in 2009: legions of loyal ‘Amanjunkies’ would attest to that. Founded by Indonesian Adrian Zecha, Amanresorts is a true rarity – an iconic hotel group 24 | BaliSavvy
that is internationally both acclaimed and mimicked. It started in Thailand, but it is arguably its Indonesian properties that have made the name of the group, including three on Bali. According to Ubudian Odeck Wiriawan, the Peter Muller-designed Amandari
The spectacular setting of the Ed Tuttle-designed Amankila, East Bali. www.amanresorts.com
started a new trend of its own with a style embraced by the Balinese in building their own homes and guest accommodation: ‘Aman kecil’. Muller’s sensitivity to the surroundings of the Amandari is an architectural sensibility that is reflected in all Aman properties;
whether a nature reserve deep in the heart of an Indian forest or at a high altitude next to a fortress in Bhutan, guests enjoy an ineffable sense of place. Each Bali property offers a distinctive experience according to its location; each is unmistakably Aman. BaliSavvy | 25
THE OBEROI SEMINYAK original and best It now gives its name to perhaps the most fashionable street in Bali, but when The Oberoi was created, there was nothing else there. The first resort to be designed by Peter Muller, the property is modeled after a Balinese village – albeit an incredibly luxurious sort of hamlet. One of Bali’s longest-serving GMs, Kamal Kaul came here in 1978, just months after the property opened. He still remembers the first time he saw The Oberoi “very vividly. I landed here in the Bali Savvy >> 26 26 | BaliSavvy
evening at about 5pm. We are on the west coast and we get the most amazing sunsets here. So it was just that time and I still remember this color of the sky and the color reflecting off these rough limestone walls and it had that glow and that amazing mystical feel...it felt very mysterious!” He “had an inkling” that Bali would become a major part of his life, and so it was. Together with Muller, he transformed the property building by building from a
The Oberoi Seminyak: poolside at sunset. www.oberoihotels.com
simple club concept to an elegant and luxurious resort that was the first of its kind on Bali. “Peter is a wonderful human being to start with and I think that’s what makes great architects or artists. He is sensitive, he’s very genuine, and that reflects in his work. He’s honest to the sites, to the people, to the buildings he’s creating. The buildings are humble. He’s not over the top, as understated as possible. The scale is a very human scale. Everything is single storey and it’s
following the contour of the land... it is snug against the coastline as the rice fields were so he was just following the contours of the land.” “It is one of those hotels that people come to for a lot of emotional attachments, these kinds of resorts where they feel I have come home to my villa. It is a property that people feel if they haven’t come here for some time on vacation there is something missing in their lives: it’s that strong.” BaliSavvy | 27
The Batu Jimbar Connection
Jenggala Keramik began in 1976 as an experimental cottage industry in Batu Jimbar, Sanur, with the collaboration of three creative minds: New Zealand designer-potter Brent Hesselyn, legendary Indonesian hotelier Wija Waworuntu and his daughter Ade. Over the past three decades the character of Jenggala’s three founding members has been enriched by individuals equally passionate about the quality and creativity of hand-crafted 28 | BaliSavvy
and well thought-out designs: various international and local artists have contributed to Jenggala’s development. Inspired by Indonesia’s breathtaking marine flora, the Coraline collection (pictured) is Jenggala’s most recent creation. The glaze is applied by hand and left to nature’s forces in the kiln. Each piece possesses a unique and organic combination of color with a random coral-like surface. www.jenggala.com
Laying the foundations for tropical style, the Batujimbar Estate owes its existence to a creative collaboration that involved Australian artist Donald Friend, Manadonese architect Wija Waworuntu, and renowned Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. When Friend arrived in Bali in 1966, in Sanur he met Waworuntu, who had established a small
— what we’d call today ‘boutique’ — hotel on the coast, Tandjung Sari, filled with antiques and Balinese art. Inspired by this, Friend decided to create Batujimbar, a tropical residential estate that was the first of its kind and heralded the birth of ‘Bali Style’. Image courtesy of Villa Batujimbar (www.villabatujimbar.com). BaliSavvy | 29
John Hardy inspiring beauty
In the beginning, there was a young Canadian art student who found himself in Bali in the midâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;70s, and there discovered a passion for local artisanal jewelry-making techniques. Having dedicated himself to their study, he created John Hardy Jewelry, which became an international luxury brand, 30 | BaliSavvy
shipped from Bali to the swankiest stores of the world, a brand known for its rich designs in sterling silver and its traditional processes. Today, the man behind John Hardy has switched his focus to education (www.greenschool.org) and beautiful bamboo (www.ibuku. com), but the jewelry
brand continues to thrive. Call ahead to arrange a visit to the inspiring workshop in Mambal, close to Ubud, and see if you can get an invite to the staff lunch, a delicious daily event that gives a special insight into the culture of this unique company. www.johnhardy.com
MILO’S Named for its founder, Italian designer Milo Migliavacca, a longterm resident of the island who is also grandly dubbed “The Original Prince of Batik Couture”, Milo’s collections have done much to redefine and popularize the traditional technique of batik. This is truly elegant tropical fashion, with batik prints on rayon-jersey, silk-jersey, appliqué embroidery, knit, silk chiffon, and
silk organza, sometimes adorned with beads, sequins, or crystals. His other beautiful passion is for orchids – as well as featuring them in his designs, he grows them in their thousands and creates new hybrids. “It’s about aesthetics, forms and color,” he says. “It’s not very different, designing a dress or a shirt or a print or designing a new flower.” www.milos-bali.com www.milosbaliorchids.com BaliSavvy | 31
Paul Ropp colors that elevate
www.paulropp.com As perhaps with any eponymous brand, the Paul Ropp experience is as much about the man himself as it is about the clothing. It’s about humor, color, self-expression. And the man himself is a phenomenon, regarded as a master of casual elegance and of throwing a good party. In short, he makes people happy, and does it in 29 countries to date. “Buying our collection for the season is cheaper than going into therapy, quicker,” says Paul. “It’s an immediate fix for a smile.” His designs and color combinations are instantly recognizable, anywhere in the world. “Why? 32 | BaliSavvy
Because of the colors and the details and everything that it is that comprises that garment. Who wears colors like this together? Why? Because that’s what makes life exciting, to express yourself using color. Basically I’m a very shy guy. I use my work to express the confidence I want to feel in my own life.” He regards Bali as “the most cultured place I’ve ever been”, a place where collaborations can thrive. Asked to sum up his experience here, he remarks that: “The greatest thing about Bali is the people…both life and death are with tears and smiles and laughter.”
%LEGANT SPACIOUS VILLA LIVING IN THE HEART OF 3EMINYAK 7HETHER YOU ARE INTERESTED IN SECLUDED AND LUXURIOUS ACCOMMODATION FOR YOUR 3EMINYAK STAY OR IN ENJOYING THE PRIVILEGES OF OWNERSHIP CONTACT US TO DISCUSS THE POSSIBILITIES
*L "RABAN NO 3EMINYAK "ALI 0 & WWW ZIVAVILLA COM INFO ZIVAVILLA COM
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BaliSavvy The Official American Express® Guide to the Island
Great Getaways
Bali has long been an island of inspiration for visitors: from designers to hoteliers, entrepreneurs, restaurateurs, and a multitude of others who come here to release their creative energies. Bali Savvy taps into some of that inspiration by showcasing the dynamic and vibrant Bali lifestyle, giving access to the best of what’s on offer on this trendsetting island.
BaliSavvy The Official American Express® Guide to the Island
BaliSavvy The Official American Express® Guide to the Island
Seminyak Insiders
The Ultimate Party Guide
Delivered directly to the homes of preferred American Express® Cardmembers in the region, Bali Savvy is also available at select venues in Bali, to catch the eye of savvy travelers while on the road.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, E-MAIL BALI SAVVY: INFO@BALISAVVY.COM
*savvy listings The Bali Savvy Listings comprise a selection of the best experiences on the island, by area: where to eat, drink, shop, stay, and what not to miss.
SEMINYAK (p.36) Explore the shopping and social scenes of this hip hub of indulgence.
ULUWATU (p.58) From surfer style to ultra-chic: stunning views and beautiful beaches are key to Uluwatuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appeal.
SANUR (p.72) A laid-back coastal village that was once a high-end haunt for socialites, stars, and artists.
KUTA (p.50) The fun and frenzied first stop for many visitors to Bali: carefree Kuta is all about the sun and surf.
JIMBARAN (p.63) A fishing village, fancy resorts, and fresh seafood at sunset.
UBUD (p.80) Art, culture, and natural beauty abound in this cosmopolitan hill town.
LEGIAN (p.55) Shops and sunset spots between the happy chaos of Kuta and the sophistication of Seminyak.
NUSA DUA (p.66) Picture-perfect beaches and calm clear blue waters in a tranquil enclave on the southeast coast.
selects offers (p. 108) The best deals in Bali for American ExpressÂŽ Cardmembers.
SEMINYAK 36 | BaliSavvy
CHIC CHARISMA To step into Seminyak is to step out of ‘typical’ Bali; this hip hub is more comparable to international playgrounds such as Ibiza, with its dazzling variety of restaurants, bars, clubs, boutique designer stores, cutting edge art galleries, and a crowd that keeps up the tempo from morning to night and back into the morning again. Above all, Seminyak is about indulgence. A typical Seminyak day begins and concludes by the sea, with forays into the area’s shops and eateries to occupy the afternoon hours. Sunsets along this western coast are particularly striking, and can be savored from many points along the beach, whether at old favorites Ku De Ta or La Lucciola, while an ever-increasing number of restaurants and bars await discovery along Jl. Oberoi and Jl. Petitenget.
SCENE
SEMINYAK
Poolside at The Samaya, Seminyak. The hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beachfront area is a perfect spot to watch the changing colors of the dusk sky in a more tranquil Seminyak setting. BaliSavvy | 37
BOUTIQUE BLISS
SEMINYAK
Shopping in Seminyak offers plenty of quirky pleasures. The area is a hub for creative types from all over the world, and many have opened their own boutiques on a shopping belt that stretches from Legian to Laksmana. For fashion, Bamboo Blonde (Jl. Laksmana 61, +62 361 7805919) is a funky store that houses innovative women’ wear, with leading brands from Australia and their own in-house brand. Susana Perini’s flagship Biasa store (Jl. Raya Seminyak 36, +62 361 730 308) has elegantly simple tropical clothing for men and women (just a couple of doors down from Biasa Art Space, her gallery of contemporary art). Milo’s (Jl. Laksmana 38, +62 361 735551) and Paul Ropp (Jl. Raya Seminyak 39, +62 361 734208) are among Bali’s best (see p.42). The women’s sportswear, beachwear and swimwear at Body and Soul (Jl. Raya Seminyak 11, +62 361 733564) is popular with the younger set, while for colorful, smart children’s clothes, Dandelion is a good bet (Jl. Raya Basangkasa 28, +62 361 730375). 38 | BaliSavvy
Mario Silver (Jl. Raya Seminyak 19, +62 361 730977) is the retail outlet of one of Bali’s leading silver jewelry designers and manufacturers. If bling is your thing, accessorize at Sabbatha (Jl. Raya Seminyak 97, +62 361 731756), where glitz and snakeskin abound. Thinking of home? Warisan is the first stop for furniture and interiors, while Haveli (Jl. Basangkasa 15 & 38, +62 361 737160) carries decorative objects, mirrors, lamps, table linen, and more. Hishem (Jl. Sunset Road 86C, +62 361 737441) manufactures hugely popular allweather resistant synthetic rattan furniture. SimpleKonsepStore (Jl. Laksmana 40, +62 361 730939) is unique, carrying items that can range from Philippe Starck chairs to Alessi knick-knacks, Melissa shoes, Vivienne Westwood accessories, and diverse others.
BOUTIQUE BLISS
SEMINYAK
Nagicia is also available at Treasures in Ubud.
The bustle of Seminyak continues to provide inspiration to designers and artists from all over the world, such as Tricia Kim, who came here from New York 12 years ago and started her own exquisite jewelry brand, Nagicia (www.nagicia.com). “One of the primary reasons I stay on in Bali is the great relationship I have with my jewel-
lers who enable me to fulfil my creative passions,” says Tricia. “The handwork in Bali is labor-intensive and intricate and that also draws inspiration for many designers. Art and sculpture...if I had known about Bali before I went to art school I would have just come here instead! Just the day to day living for the Balinese is an ‘art’.” BaliSavvy | 39
SAVVY
SEMINYAK
*EAT
LA SAL Jl. Drupadi II No. 100 T: +62 361 738321 info@lasalbali.com www.lasalbali.com “Life’s no life without salt” is, appropriately, the motto of this tapasstyle restaurant tucked away on a quieter Seminyak street. Bright and airy by day, at night the cozy candlelit ambience makes it the perfect place to share a meal with a special someone or a group of friends. LA LUCCIOLA Jl. Oberoi, Kerobokan T: +62 361 730 838 Situated in a fabulous location right on Petitenget beach, the restaurant is designed to allow guests to take full advantage of the vista. La Lucciola serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, and delicious desserts, and is home to the Frangipani Bar, a popular choice for watching the legendary sunset on this stretch of coast. 40 | BaliSavvy
SIP Jl. Raya Seminyak 16A T: +62 361 730810 drink@sip-bali.com, www.sip-bali.com Authentic bistro-style restaurant on Seminyak’s main street, opened by sommelier Christian Vanneque in 2008 to offer deliciously satisfying French cuisine and an extensive wine list. Full marks for a remarkably wellequipped bathroom that leaves little to be desired for those in need of a refresher between sips.
METIS Jl. Petitenget No. 6, Kerobokan T: +62 361 737 888 info@metisbali.com, www.metisbali.com Opened in October 2009, this is Bali’s newest fine dining restaurant, created by Nicolas “Doudou” Tourneville and Said Alem, the same team that created the celebrated Warisan restaurant. Their latest venture continues to please palates in a beautiful
SAVVY
setting. Check their website for daily events and specials. SARDINE Jl Petitenget No. 21, Kerobokan T: +62 361 738 202 www.sardinebali.com A successful addition to Seminyak’s chic dining scene, Sardine specializes in fish and other seafood prepared with Mediterranean flair. An intimate restaurant with an innovative all-bamboo design and clear views over the rice paddies. SARONG Jl. Petitenget No19x, Kerobokan T: +62 361 737 809 info@sarongbali.com Sarong makes a statement that a restaurant is not about what’s on the menu, but who’s behind the menu. The man behind Sarong’s exquisite
menu is Chef Will Meyrick, who since coming to Bali was also the leading man behind Husk at the Sofitel and Blossom at Sentosa. Other than the delicious dishes, this is the place to go for a sensational sip of Vanilla Vodka and Mint Tea. BIKU Jl. Petitenget, Kerobokan T: +62 361 857 0888 info@bikubali.com A delightful afternoon retreat, Biku is a cozy place where it’s possible to make yourself at home for hours on end. A tea lounge, restaurant, antiques store and bookstore (operated by Ganesha), the only challenge you will face here is tearing yourself away from the assortment of delectable cakes and scones.
BaliSavvy | 41
SEMINYAK
Wining and dining are favorite pursuits in Seminyak, where there are a variety of options for enjoying world-class cuisine, often at very reasonable prices.
SAVVY
SEMINYAK
*DRINK HU’U Jl. Oberoi, Petitenget T: +62 361 736 443 www.huubali.com This funky nightspot, located between KU DE TA and The Living Room, has sustained a popularity all of its own. The star attraction here is the centerpiece swimming pool, where the bold and the beautiful can jump in when it gets too hot on the dancefloor. The rest of the compound consists of a chilled-out drinking area and dining area in the garden and pavilion. KU DE TA Jl. Oberoi 9, Petitenget T: +62 361 736 969 www.kudeta.net Jokingly described as Seminyak’s ‘spiritual center’, spend some time here and you will see that it was only half in jest. The Seminyak ‘scene’ started here, and this effortlessly stylish bar-restaurant-beach club 42 | BaliSavvy
still oozes appeal, with two bars, indoor/outdoor restaurant seating and beachfront sunbeds to laze on while the DJ spins an eclectic mix of music, new and old, with one of the best sunset views on Bali. What more could you ask for? THE LIVING ROOM Jl. Petitenget 2000x T: +62 361 735 735 E: info@thelivingroom-bali.com This fine dining restaurant and lounge also attracts a hip clientele, who stay on until the early hours to party on the dancefloor. An institution and often the final port of call for those in the mood for a big night in northern Seminyak. RED CARPET CHAMPAGNE BAR Jl. Oberoi 42c T: +62 361 737 889 E: info@redcarpetbali.com A ritzy bar specializing in the glorious bubbly beverage. Think Moët accompanied by a platter of oysters. No need to go to tinseltown darling, the red carpet’s right here in Seminyak.
SAVVY
Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Bali Encounter, Lonely Planet 2009
RYOSHI Jl. Raya Seminyak 17 T: +62 361 733963 On most Monday nights, the Seminyak outlet of the Ryoshi group of Japanese restaurants (others are in Ubud, Sanur, and Kuta) hosts impromptu music sessions with visiting musicians. Grab a sake, sit back, and you may be in for some pleasant surprises when you see the talent that’s in town.
tacular beachside ceremonies. There has been a temple here since the site was visited by a 16th-century priest, and although this is not one of the nine key directional temples of Bali, it is an important link in the series of sea temples along the coastline stretching from Pura Luhur Uluwatu to Pura Tanah Lot. Thronged on major festival days, it’s a good location at which to witness some of the most important Balinese ceremonies.
*SEE
*STAY
PURA PETITENGET Located close to the beach off Jl. Petitenget is a large temple complex that is one of the most important in Bali, known for particularly spec-
SENTOSA VILLAS & RESORT Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget T: +62 361 730 540 E: info@balisentosa.com Since opening in 2007, Sentosa has BaliSavvy | 43
SEMINYAK
“If the priorities in [Kuta] revolve around finding cold beer, the priorities in Seminyak involve talking about designers – or claiming to be one.”
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SEMINYAK
claimed its place in the very highest echelon of chic Seminyak hotels. There are no hotel rooms as such, rather this is a villa resort and each villa has its own pool. Common areas are spectacular here and include a top class gym and spa. ZIVA, A BOUTIQUE VILLA Jl. Braban no. 80 T. +62 361 847 8202 E. info@zivavilla.com Eight spacious private villas in the heart of Seminyak, within walking distance of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Eat Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Jl. Oberoi). Clean contemporary design combines with luscious greenery to foster an atmostphere of seclusion. Villas are fully equipped with technology, amenities, and a lap-able pool. SILQ PRIVATE RESIDENCES Jl. Petitenget 27 C T: +62 361 847461 E: info@silqkerobokanbali.com A stay at SILQ is the great Seminyak escape: 17 tastefully designed private residences, each with its own private pool and an atmosphere con44 | BaliSavvy
THE SAMAYA Jl. Laksmana, Petitenget, Kerobokan T: +62 361 731 149 E: info@thesamayabali.com The Samaya is a stylish villa resort with forty-six villas over four hectares of land. Twenty-four of these command a premier location along the fashionable Seminyak beachfront, while the Royal Courtyard Villas are set in a tranquil Balinese village environment just across the road. It has its own wonderful restaurant called The Breeze, and guests enjoy 180-degree beach and ocean views from its Olympic-sized swimming pool.
ducive to play. The penthouse with its tented bedroom ceiling and large pool set in a manicured tropical garden is a particular highlight, perfect for parties with friends or luxuriant quiet time with loved ones.
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SEMINYAK
Ziva, A Boutique Villa, Seminyak.
SEMINYAK A Seminyak villa resort with 18 uniquely designed full service villas, The Kunja offers guests ample living space, both within the individual villas and throughout the property as a whole. The onebedroom retreats are designed for couples and honeymooners, while three-bedroom villas are perfect for family time. Weddings can be celebrated on site at the glass Santi Chapel, day or night. 46 | BaliSavvy
STUFF
SEMINYAK
THE KUNJA Jl. Lebak Sari 8, Kerobokan T: +62 361 733130 www.thekunja.com BaliSavvy | 47
LEGIAN <<KUTA
CATCHING THAT WAVE Hectic, bustling Kuta is often the initial port of call for first-time visitors to Bali, and especially for those of the surfing persuasion. In the 1980s, backpackers used to refer to the three Ks: Katmandu, Khao San Road, and Kuta. Still here today, within a dense network of teeming alleyways and busy streets, are inexpensive hotels, lively bars, tattoo artists, hawkers, tourist knick-knacks and a range of attire targeting the beach loving tourist. Increasingly, there are more refined establishments springing up to challenge the cheap and cheerful image, but there’s no downplaying that Kuta spirit: carefree, party-ready, and young at heart. The Legian area, heading north, is like Kuta’s older sister: with its quieter shopping ambience and more polished hangouts, it is a bridge between the happy chaos of Kuta and the sophistication of Seminyak. The most lively strip is along Blue Ocean Beach/Double Six Beach, where the action never stops – as soon as surf’s up, the beach is abuzz, and the cafés and restaurants alongside are great for people-watching during the day, witnessing great sunsets come evening, and checking out the party crowd at night.
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KUTA
Designed in a comfortable combination of romantic Balinese minimalism and rich Italian reds, Rosso Vivo on Jl. Pantai Kuta lives up to the lively expectations that its name inspires. With a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of the goings-on along Kuta beach, and a prime position from which to enjoy the sunset, it is an oasis
in the midst of the sometimes chaotic noise and haste of the street just outside. Get there on time for the 5-7pm Happy Hour to make the most of the sunset grill and cocktails. Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: +62 361 751961
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KUTA
*EAT | DRINK
Aromas CafÉ Jl. Legian T: +62 361 751 003. A haven for vegetarian foodies in the heart of Kuta, with an extensive menu and open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Also good for a coffee and cake break. Made’s Warung Jl. Pantai Kuta T: +62 361 755297 The original, and some would argue best, Made’s Warung (its larger and also extremely popular sister is in Seminyak). One of the very first restaurants in Kuta, and still serving up a great nasi campur, along with other Indonesian and Western dishes. TJ’s MEXICAN BAR & RESTAURANT Poppies Gang I T: +62 361 751093 52 | BaliSavvy
Some of the finest Mexican food on the island is to be found here, and perhaps the best frozen margaritas, with the restaurant’s cheerful interiors providing the perfect atmosphere for a fiesta. MAMA’S Jl. Legian T: +62 361 761151 This 24-hour German restaurant serves up schnitzel, wurst, and beer around the clock. Popular for watching sports and for a hearty breakfast after a long night. Ma Joly Jl. Wana Segara, Tuban (At Kupu Kupu Barong Resort) T: +62 361 753 780 Alfresco dining in a beachfront location in a quiet part of south Kuta/ Tuban. A great spot for the sunset, or to have a drink before departing for the nearby airport.
SAVVY
“Some say Kuta is Bali’s fun vacation spot, others go out of
Kafe Batan Waru Jl Kartika Plaza, Kuta T: +62 361 766 303 One of the Bali Good Food stable, Batan Waru has been an institution in Ubud for many years and their Kuta outlet is similarly successful.
their way to avoid it. If you’re young or young at heart and love being where the action is, you’ll agree with the first assessment.”
*DO PRO SURF SCHOOL BALI Jl. Pantai Kuta T: +62 361 7441466 www.prosurfschool.com Learn to surf with the top surf school in Bali. Pro Surf School offers comprehensive surfing lessons for beginners, intermediate and advanced surfers, as well as surf trips around Bali.
Howard Hillman
WATERBOM PARK Jl. Kartika Plaza (opposite Discovery Shopping Mall) T: +62 361 755676 This is one of the biggest water theme parks in Asia, within walking distance of Kuta beach. A good place for a family outing, with slides for the young and young at heart, plus a spa for the adults. BaliSavvy | 53
KUTA
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KUTA
*SHOP
*STAY
TICKET TO THE MOON Jl. Raya Legian T: +62 361 763579 In case you left your hammock at home, this famous Bali brand is here to help. Hammocks are made from parachute fabric that fold up into the smallest, lightest package imaginable.
HARD ROCK HOTEL Jalan Pantai Kuta T: +62 361 761869 Part of the global Hard Rock chain, this offers exactly what you would expect, right on Kuta Beach. Has the largest pool in Bali and an array of other facilities including a spa, fitness centre, kid’s club and a rock-climbing wall. Several restaurants and bars and their very own radio station.
DISCOVERY SHOPPING MALL Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta A huge American-style mall with plenty of international brand such as Guess, Marks and Spencers, Sogo and Top Shop. The second level is occupied fully by the Centro department store, and there are many cafés and a large electronics retailer on the third level. There are several waterfront cafés on the ground level, with ocean views.
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MERCURE KUTA Jl. Pantai Kuta 100x T: +62 361 767411 Located right on Kuta Beach, affordable comfort with sunset views, in the heart of a surfers’ paradise. Managed by Accor, the hotel also has a very good inhouse spa, and a rooftop pool.
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LEGIAN
*EAT
*DRINK
LANAI Jl. Double Six T: +62 361 731 305 Lanai serves up hearty portions and has great views of the beach from the upstairs balcony. Popular with visitors, it enjoys the west coast sunset and has a cozy night-time ambience.
DOUBLE SIX Jl. Double Six T: +62 361 733067 www.doublesixclub.com This infamous dance club, right next to Double Six beach, regularly draws huge crowds to events with big name DJs. It also has a large swimming pool, 45 meters above which is a bungy jump tower operated by AJ HACKETT (+62 361 731144). Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to jump either during the day or late at night/early morning, as the beats thump in the club below.
ZANZIBAR Jl. Double Six T: +62 361 733529 A well-established restaurant with excellent Italian cuisine and especially good pasta dishes and seafood. A good spot to grab breakfast before hitting the surf.
DE JA VU Jl. Double Six no. 7X T: +62 361 733777 A still very happening beachside dance bar. Popular with the pre-Double Six crowd from about midnight until 3AM. This venue also hosts events with DJs from all over the world.
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SAVVY
PADMA RESORT BALI AT LEGIAN Jl Padma No. 1 T: +62 361 752111 www.padmaresortbali.com Formerly known as Hotel Padma, the resort has recently relaunched with a new name and brand. Renovation and refurbishment are still in progress, but so far the results are promising and occupancy is already high. O-CE-N Bali by Outrigger JI Arjuna 88X T: +62 361 737400 www.outrigger.com A huge luxury apartment hotel right on the beach. Flat-panel televisions, cable service, and high-speed Internet access are standard features in all rooms, while fifth floor penthouse suites offer split-level accommodations with private Jacuzzi tubs and landscaped garden terraces suitable for entertaining.
SHOPPING SCENE The streets of Legian are crammed with shops. Jalan Padma is especially good for beads and trinkets. Jalan Arjuna is lined with small stores selling sarongs and fabrics. On Jalan Legian look for slightly more upmarket boutiques, and surfwear/sportswear stores.
BALI NIKSOMA Jl. Padma Utara T: +62 361 751946 www.baliniksoma.com A super-stylish boutique hotel on the beach in Legian. Designed by Hadi Prana and equipped with top quality spa, restaurant and large pool. VILLA DE DAUN Jl. Legian T: +62 361 756276 An oasis down a small lane off Jl. Legian, with stylish private villas and a highly rated in-house spa, bookings are often made with spa packages included. BaliSavvy | 57
LEGIAN
*STAY
ULUWATU
JIMBARAN & ULUWATU
LIVING THE HIGH LIFE Uluwatu, and the surrounding area along the west coast of the Bukit peninsula, was visited by surfers before anyone else thought of venturing there. With time, the stunning cliff views and beautiful beaches broadened the area’s appeal, and many developers have moved in to create ultra-chic, ultra-exclusive villas and resorts that take advantage of the natural landscape to jawdropping effect. Uluwatu was a pilgrimage site long before it became sacred to surfers: Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of Bali’s nine key directional temples, in a spectacular clifftop location 70 meters above the Indian Ocean. Visitors are free to walk around the temple grounds, while the central courtyards can only be entered during special rituals, and it is an experience that is well worth braving the sometimes fearsome (and always thieving) monkeys. On the cliff adjacent to the temple, one of Bali’s most memorable kecak performances can be witnessed every day at sunset. Below the temple is a large sea cave and Suluban Beach, one of the most famous surf spots on the island.
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JIMBARAN & ULUWATU ACTIVITY ULUWATU
Alila Villas Uluwatu is a property in the area that truly takes advantage of its location: stunning tropical architecture meets breathtaking panoramic ocean views. BaliSavvy | 59
ULUWATU An exclusive private Villa Estate with personalized butler service, The edge offers breathtaking views of the ocean from its clifftop Pecatu location. Within each villa is a fully integrated entertainment 60 | BaliSavvy
audio and visual system, and wi-fi internet, king size bathtubs, outdoor garden showers, and a fully catered kitchen. Estate facilities include its spa, pool, wedding venue, wine cellar, wine tasting lounge,
ACTIVITY ULUWATU
theatre, kids room, gymnasium, and nanny residence. The edge prides itself on its no menu policy, serving â&#x20AC;&#x153;personally tailor madeâ&#x20AC;? food under the gourmet guidance of the Executive Chef.
The edge Jl. Pura Goa Lempeh Banjar Dinas Kangin, Pecatu - Uluwatu T: +62 361 8470700 www.the-edgebali.com BaliSavvy | 61
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ULUWATU
*DRINK
*STAY
BULGARI HOTELS & RESORTS BALI Jl. Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin T: +62 361 8471000 www.bulgarihotels.com The only Bulgari property in South East Asia is located here in Bali. Bulgariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature stylish contemporary design is on display throughout the resort. All of the toiletries are, of course, Bulgari. So are the crafts and fabrics used, which are exclusively designed and produced for this property. Step on board the inclinator at Karma Kandara, and within seconds you will be transported to a white sand beach club with perfect water, killer cocktails and flavorful snacks: Nammos Beach Club. The Rp.150,000 fee levied on outside guests is discounted from the final bill. www.karmakandara.com
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THE ISTANA T: +62 361 730668 www.theistana.com This five-suite clifftop estate overlooks white sand beaches and a lagoon abundant with sea life and coral, and at night, magical sunsets.
SUNSET BEACH Once a simple fishing village, Jimbaran and its 5-kilometer white sand coastline is now
Again Regardless of Number of times I see sunsets In Jimbaran Bay. It is always The first
home to several of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more upscale resorts. But its fishing heritage is still an important part of the Jimbaran experience, no more so than at sunset on the beach where there is a plethora
Beauty eclipsed By its own nature Everything hued Out Exaggerated
of fresh seafood restaurants to
Showing off
choose from.
Cirque de Soleil
Sitting around tables in the sand, eating delicious grilled fish while a band of musicians roams the
The black Toothed cat Of the new moon Rising silent Yet chuckling
beach playing everything from the Gipsy Kings to Frank Sinatra: this is, for many, the epitome
John Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Sullivan Bali August 2008
of the Jimbaran experience.
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ACTIVITY JIMBARAN
JIMBARAN
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ACTIVITY JIMBARAN
*STAY
*SHOP/DO
JENGGALA KERAMIK Jl. Uluwatu no. 2 T: +62 361 703311 Bali’s popular ceramic maker. Shop, make or decorate your own piece, or relax in the adjacent café.
FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT JIMBARAN BAY Jl. Four Seasons, Jimbaran T: +62 361 701010 www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay Two sides of Bali can be enjoyed by combining a stay here with a sojourn at its sister property in Ubud, the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan. The general manager attributes the special nature of a stay here to “the quality of personal service…personal service which delivers recognition, reassurance and respect in authentic and appropriate ways ensuring that every detail is what guests would wish for, and more.” Add to that a breathtakingly beautiful property, and little is left to be desired.
PAUL ROPP Jl. Uluwatu no. 80 T: +62 361 701202 www.paulropp.com Striking clothes and accessories in vibrant colors, fashioned from the finest silk and cotton fabrics. THERMES MARINS BALI Ayana Resort & Spa Jl.Karang Mas Sejahtera T: +62 361 702222 www.ayanaresort.com One of the most sought-after spas in Bali, combining luxurious design, well-trained therapists, and a wide range of treatments. A highlight is the therapeutic pool, perched on a cliff overlooking the sea.
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NUSA DUA
BEACHSIDE BLISS Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s successful project for planned tourism development, Nusa Dua provides a picture perfect holiday experience. While its meticulously landscaped environment lacks some of the charm of more authentic Balinese landscapes, it fulfils its role as a tranquil resort enclave, and does it well, providing a respite from the intensity of other popular tourist zones on the island. Some of the most luxurious hotels are here, most with direct access to pristine white sand beaches and gentle clear blue waters â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Nusa Dua provides the perfect getaway for those who want the least taxing of all possible vacations. For those who can tear themselves away from the idyllic beach and the in-hotel entertainment, the 18-hole Nusa Dua Golf and Country Club is one of the top three golf courses in Bali; the Pasifika Museum showcases the art of Bali, Southeast Asia, and the South Pacific region; and shopping options are aplenty at the Bali Collection, a complex that includes several restaurants, SOGO department store, and a wide selection of boutiques and specialty outlets. Tanjung Benoa, north of the complex, offers a multitude of watersports activities, from jetskiing to banana boating.
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ACTIVITY NUSA DUA
The Nikko Beach Club boasts one of the picture perfect stretches of sand and sea for which Nusa Dua is renowned.
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NUSA DUA
*STAY
AMANUSA Jl. Nusa Dua Selatan T: +62 361 772333 Part of one of the world’s most exclusive hotel groups, Amanusa is located on a sloping, immaculately landscaped property adjacent to the Bali Golf & Country Club. All 35 thatched-roof suites have wooden four-poster beds, draped in white veils, and an outdoor shower is built into a high wall of paras stone. Spectacular views of the Indian Ocean and Nusa Dua. Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: +62 361 773377 The recently renovated lobby is blessed with perhaps the best view from any hotel in Nusa Dua – from 40 meters above the sea, a vast expanse of blue ocean stretches to the distant horizon. In 2010 the Resort completed the final phase in upgrading all facilities, a multimillion dollar project that
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began in 2006 with the cliff-top Wiwaha wedding chapel – a split-level glass structure that offers a sweeping 180-degree view of the Indian Ocean. THE WESTIN Kawasan Wisata BTDC T: +62 361 771906 All rooms at The Westin have a private balcony, with views of the pool, the tropical garden, or the beach. Using the Heavenly Bed as their icon, comfort is guaranteed. Its Kids Club is also beneficial for those traveling with kids, who have their own check-in counter and a variety of activities to keep them occupied while parents relax and enjoy some time off.
SAVVY
*DO
BUMBU BALI Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa T: +62 361 774502 www.bumbubaliresto.com Authentic Balinese food with fine dining flair. Also offers famous cooking classes.
WATERSPORTS Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa Along the road heading north from Nusa Dua, a multitude of watersports centers can be found, offering everything from diving, snorkeling, windsurfing, cruises and waterskiing to banana boat rides.
ULAM RESTAURANT Jl. Pantai Mengiat T: +62 361 771590 A local institution for traditional Balinese food in the Nusa Dua area. MARTINI BAR The Royal Santrian Jl. Pratama, TanjungBenoa T: +62 361 778181 Poolside and beachside bar with a menu of 100 martini recipes.
BALI GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB Kawasan Wisata BTDC T: +62 361 771791 www.baligolfandcountryclub.com One of Bali’s most popular destinations for both foreign and domestic golfers. Each hole offers a different vista: Nusa Dua, the ocean, or Mount Agung. Green fees $150.
“Nusa Dua offers a decidedly serene environment for those who want to get away from Bali. Walk down the hotel corridors to experience a spacious, make-believe, gloriously landscaped world…” Bill Dalton, Indonesia Handbook (Moon Publications)
ACTIVITY NUSA DUA
*EAT/DRINK
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ACTIVITY NUSA DUA
*STAY
*SHOP
BALI COLLECTION Kawasan Wisata BTDC T: +62 361 771662 www.bali-collection.com One stop shopping haven for those staying in the area. It has a huge variety of shops, including Sogo Department Store, Alun â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Alun, Body & Soul, and many more.
Kayumanis Nusa Dua is an exquisite enclave of well-appointed luxurious pavilions, each offering unrivalled space, exceptional comfort, and complete privacy within secluded walled gardens, and designed in a variety of styles: Balinese, Javanese, Oriental, Palembang, Primitive, and Modern.
SERENE LIVING Conrad Bali Jl. Pratama 168 T: +62 361 778788 Modern and sleek designs for those inspired by holiday thoughts of home redecoration.
KAYUMANIS NUSA DUA Kawasan Wisata BTDC T: +62 361 770777 www.kayumanis.com
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SANUR
EXPAT HAVENS Although it enjoys a more peaceful reputation than other areas on Bali, Sanur has had quite an impressive history in relation to the island’s evolution. It was the high-end haunt for socialites, stars and artists. Some of the earliest known artists include the Dutch W.O.J. Nieuwenkamp who drew the Dutch invasion arriving at the Sanur Beach in 1906; the Germans Hans and Rolf Neuhaus were here in 1935; Mexican born Miguel Covarrubias did his time; the Swiss Theo Meier and the Belgian Le Mayeur, who became known for the beautiful muse paintings of his beloved dancer wife, Ni Polok. His house is now the Le Mayeur Museum and commemorates his life with great authenticity. In the ‘70s, the likes of Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Yoko Ono and Sting regularly stayed at the famous Tandjung Sari Hotel and mingled with artists at La Taverna. Sanur’s reputation has also been boldly charged by other great personalities such as artist, Donald Friend and cult figure, landscape designer, and writer, Made Wijaya. [Jeane Seah]
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SCENE
SANUR
A scene from the annual Sanur Village Festival. Bali BaliSavvy Savvy >>| 73 73
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SANUR
*EAT | DRINK LE RESTO MING Jl. Danau Tamblingan 105 T: +62 361 286079 An old favorite of local expat residents and tourists alike, serving French/international cuisine and local favorites. A highlight is the cozy arty atmosphere in a contemporary Balinese setting. MEZZANINE Jl. Danau Tamblingan 63 T: +62 361 270624 Elegant dining in a contemporary setting, with terrace, this restaurant serves Thai, Chinese, Japanese and international cuisine on the south side of Sanur. It’s part of the Puri Santrian Hotel, which has another pleasant restaurant on the beach. Some evenings offer soft live music. ISOLA Jl. Danau Tamblingan 29, Sanur Tel: +62 361 289 310 On the beachside of Hotel La Taverna, this is perfect for intimate dining evenings and beach privacy. 74 | BaliSavvy
CAFÉ BATU JIMBAR Jl. Danau Tamblingan 75A T: +62 361 287374 A reliable place for quality, the casual parasol-shaded terrace is frequented by fruit-juice and cake-lovers, serious Indonesian food fans and even western salad and meat-cravers. The Sunday morning market is a notable event, with a brunch specializing in local dishes traditionally created and organic products. Jazz on Thursdays.
And if Mount Agung is visible, the setting provides for an intense Balinese sensation. Specializing in Italian and local fare. Jazz on Thursdays. LA PAU Jl. ByPass Ngurah Rai 178 T: +62 361 286178 A warung-style Sumatran restaurant famous for their Padang varieties. Scrumptious rendang and interesting vegetable specialties. If you don’t love hot, you miss a lot! Friday/Saturdays are especially popular for jazz/blues live performances. (*CASH ONLY)
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SANUR
La Taverna is perhaps one of the best-preserved hotels in the classical spirit of Bali, practically unchanged although continuously maintained and upgraded for decades. The quiet stretch of beach in front accompanies views of the majestic Mount Agung beautifully, and much is done to keep every original feature intact, including the memories of sentimental Bali fans.
Some evenings offer jazz or classical music to suit its casually stylish atmosphere. Both La Taverna and the Tandjung Sari Hotel next door have in common guest books that read like a whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-who of celebrity visitors to the island since the 1970s â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they complement each other in every way possible for the total Sanur experience. [JS] www.latavernahotel.com
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SANUR
*DO Diving and Watersports CRYSTAL DIVERS Jl Danau Tamblingan 168 T: +62 361 286 737 E: info@crystal-divers.com The first PADI Career Development Centre in Indonesia, offering a range of courses from intro dives to instructor courses as well as day dive trips and dive safaris around Bali.
Sanur beach, with Mount Agung in the background.
Cycling and walking Sanur has an excellent paved beachfront cycle-path that stretches along 5 kilometers from the Jalan Mertasari area in south Sanur to the main beach at Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end of the village. 76 | BaliSavvy
BALI KITE SURFING SCHOOL Mertasari T: +62 361 789 9013 www.bali-kitesurfing.org IKO certified kite-surfing school. The lessons are conducted in a safe, user-friendly environment and lessons can be structured to suit individual needs. BLUE OASIS BEACH CLUB Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: +62 361 288 011 Specialists in water sports, offering sea-kayaking, kite-surfing, parasailing, wakeboarding, waterskiing, windsurfing, and diving.
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SAVVY
SANUR
*STAY
THE BALI HYATT Jl. Danau Tamblingan 89 T: +62 361 281234 The gardens are some of the loveliest in the area, revamped in the eighties by Made Wijaya. Sitting at the bar terrace looking over their grounds and beach evokes a relaxing old Bali feeling. First opened in 1973, with a youthful Kerry Hill as its site architect. THE PAVILIONS Jl. Danau Tamblingan 76 T : + 62 361 288381 A member of the Relais & Chateaux group, within the peaceful compound are 25 tranquil Balinese-style romantic pool villas, with a lagoon fringed by a reef and a white sand beach. GRIYA SANTRIAN HOTEL Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47 T: +62 361 288181 A well-run beachfront hotel that houses a spa and gallery, Rooms are well-appointed and spacious 78 | BaliSavvy
with an intimate restaurant on the beach. Its sister hotel is Puri Santrian in southern Sanur.
TANDJUNG SARI HOTEL Jl. Danau Tamblingan 41 T: +62 361 288441 www.tandjungsari.com The centre of attention in the 1960s and 1970s as the first boutique hotel in Asia, playing host to visiting dignitaries and celebrities from all over the world, Tandjung Sari is still, discreetly, going strong. With twenty-six Balinese bungalows in a lovely garden on the beach, it started out as an extension of the private house of Wija Wawo-Runtu and his English artist wife Judith. Wija’s philosophy: “My hotel is my living room, my guests are my friends…”
UBUD
A BREATH OF FRESH AIR For many visitors and residents, Ubud has long represented something essential to Bali’s unique charm, immersed in the island’s finest art, culture, and natural beauty,. Today it’s a cosmopolitan village, populated with a colorful community of artists, healers, designers, reformed hippies, health food aficionados, anthropologists, yogis and yoginis, and various escapees from the ‘real’world...while just minutes from the main street you are back in traditional Bali, where a badling of ducks can stop traffic and around every bend in the road are expansive vistas of lush padi, villagers preparing en masse to celebrate a religious festival or a cremation, and gamelan and dance troupes in full flourish. That Bali magic is to be found here, every day. As it gains in popularity, Ubud is dealing with an influx of traffic that is at present outstripping development of the necessary infrastructure to cope with such numbers. To enjoy it at its best, don’t settle for a day trip – spend at least a night here if not making it the base for your entire Bali stay.
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ACTIVITY UBUD
©Elena Román
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*EAT/DRINK
TERAZO Jl. Suweta T: +62 361 978941 From the Bali Good Food stable (along with its sister restaurants Café Batan Waru, Cinta, and Siam Sally), Terazo has a tropical colonial feel, the walls decorated with classic posters from the early days of the Indonesian tourism industry. Downstairs is good for a snug bird’s eye view of the action on the street outside, while upstairs there is a more refined feel: here, dining becomes an event. BALI BUDDHA Jl. Jembawan no. 1 T: +62 361 976324 Delicious healthy food with a dazzling selection of juices and jamu, and a menu that ranges from vegan fare to great pastas and pizzas. Downstairs is a great little grocery store with everything from fresh baked goodies to natural soaps and incense sticks. 82 | BaliSavvy
*EAT
GLOW Como Shambhala Estate at Begawan Giri T: +62 361 978888 Raw food doyenne Diana von Cranach (owner of Puri Ganesha resort in the northwest of the island) is the creative force behind the sublime uncooked offerings on Glow’s healthy menu. Verdantly serene by day, magical by night: reservations highly recommended.
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ACTIVITY UBUD
“Ubud is a mood.” Leonard Lueras COFFEE AND SILVER Jl. Monkey Forest no. 007 T: +62 361 975354 Charming indoor-outdoor venue where you’ll find live music and a magical ambience outdoors on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. The menu includes a tasty tapas selection. THREE MONKEYS Jl. Monkey Forest T: +62 361 974830 A great escape from the buzz of Monkey Forest Road, whether for a full meal or just for a coffee and one of their delicious cakes and gelatos. The outdoor tables next to the rice padi are especially magical at night by torchlight. INDUS Jl. Raya Sanggingan T: +62 361 977684 The food is great too, but really it’s all about the view here: stunning valley views and, on a clear day,
Mount Agung in the distance. PIGNOU DI PENYU Jl. Goutama No.5 T : +62 361 972577 Ubud has many sweet little hideaways, and this French restaurant is as delightful a find as any. Lapin and escargot are most definitely on the menu, but the kitchen is also mindful of vegetarians. (*CASH ONLY) IBU OKA WARUNG BABI GULING Jl. Suweta A Bali institution, and growing ever more popular with endorsements from the likes of Anthony Bourdain. It’s all about the pork here: the babi guling (spit-roasted pig) is served with rice and spiced veggies. Seating is on the floor at low tables inside the bale (pavilion), or at regular tables. (CASH ONLY)
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UBUD
With some of the best food in Bali, great accommodation for every budget, and access to the island’s finest art, culture, and natural beauty, Ubud has entranced visitors ever since German artist Walter Spies made his home here in the 1930s.
ARY’S WARUNG Jl Raya Ubud 35 T: +62 361 975959 It started out as a real warung back in the ‘80s, but Ary’s is now a rather more stylish venue, popular for dinner but also with a bar at which to perch early evening and watch the world go by on Ubud’s main strip. NAUGHTY NURI’S Jl. Raya Sanggingan T: +62 361 977 547 The roadside ‘warung’ as legendary for its New York-style martinis as it is for its barbecued pork ribs and its lively conversations. A magnet for tourists and expats alike. (*CASH ONLY)
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DELI CAT Ubud Sports Field T: +62 361 971284 Another Ubud institution, Deli Cat is like a more refined, more European version of Naughty Nuri’s, with the same potential for good times. It has a casual comfortable atmosphere and a selection of deli cheeses and cold cuts for the peckish. (*CASH ONLY) NAPI ORTI Jl. Monkey Forest +62 361970982 The one venue in Ubud that seems to stay open until the last customer is ready to leave. Cozy spot with décor ranging from rock posters to a quirky Antonio Blanco. Often with live music, and the only place to go for a late-night pizza. (CASH ONLY)
SAVVY
ACTIVITY UBUD
*SEE
PERFORMANCES Ubud has a plethora of traditional dances and other cultural performances aimed at tourists happening nightly. Venues include Pura Dalem (Jl. Raya Ubud), Pura Taman Saraswati (Ubud Water Palace, Jl. Raya Ubud), Ubud Palace (Jl. Raya Ubud), Ubud Wantilan (across from Ubud Palace, Jl. Raya Ubud). To experience some of the best gamelan and dance, at a slight remove from the tourist horde, enquire about performances at Peliatan, the village renowned for its music and the first to bring it abroad on an international tour in the 1930s. UBUD MARKET This central market is a hive of activity, with wares of varying quality — the patient may find some worthwhile items. Behind the main market is the town’s fresh produce market, giving you a glimpse of the wonderful fresh local ingredients
that make up your daily meals. SAYAN SUNSETS By the Ayung valley ridge, Sayan sunsets can be witnessed in all their glory at the Four Seasons, Amandari, or Sayan Terrace, with contours of the volcanic peaks to the northwest visible on a clear day. GOA GAJAH (Elephant Cave) Bedulu village The centerpiece of this beautiful sacred complex is a cave temple that dates at least from the 11th century, with a striking entrance carved in the form of a demon’s mouth and both Buddhist and Hindu sculptures inside and close by. Inside are the remnants of a Ganesha statue. Outside is an elaborate bathing place, and beyond that a path that leads to other Buddhist figures down towards a serene gorge in the Petanu river valley.
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TIRTA EMPUL Tampaksiring (20km northeast of Ubud) Balinese visit this temple from all over the island to bathe in the sacred cleansing spring, seeking blessings and healing. Tradition has it that each of the 15 fountains at the bathing pool has a specific function. The water at Tirta Empul is regarded as the holiest in Bali, and during Galungan, the sacred barong masks are bathed here. GREEN SCHOOL Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Abiansemal The Green School campus is an attraction in its own right, and may make you wish you had your childhood years back again. In a stunning location on the Ayung river valley, a tour of the school also gives an insight into some of the projects that students work on as part of their holistic, green educational experience. Tours are held on Mondays and Wednesdays (see www.greenschool.org for more details).
*STAY
The recently opened Fivelements, Puri Ahimsa, offers a retreat in beautiful natural and architectural surroundings. Gifted Balinese and international healing therapists are at hand to perform massage, deep reflexology, acupressure and energy work in the private riverfront suites. Ceremonies, yoga, and sacred arts are regularly held on site, while the Sakti restaurant is already getting rave reviews for its gourmet raw vegan food. www.fivelements.org
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ACTIVITY UBUD
*STAY AMANDARI Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Sayan T: +62 361 975 333 www.amanresorts.com/amandari This was the first Aman hotel in Bali, created in the 1980s by Peter Muller and yet impressively ageless. It’s not hard to see why it inspired many imitators, but a stay there is still matchless today — from the excellent food to the beautiful scenery, elegant architecture, and that Aman style of service.
FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Sayan T: +62 361 701 010 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Entering the Four Seasons property in Sayan is an indelibly memorable experience – the footbridge that leads to the lobby offers an awe-inspiring view of the steep gorge drop to the Ayung river valley below. It’s all superb from there on, from the fabulous food to the superlative spa.
COMO SHAMBHALA ESTATE Banjar Begawan, Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan T: +62 361 978 888 www.cse.comoshambhala.bz This stunning property gives you the feeling of staying in an ultraluxurious home instead of a hotel. Twenty minutes north of Ubud, close to the village of Payangan, the focus is on health and healing, and it provides a perfect setting in which to retreat from the world and revive one’s senses.
MAYA UBUD Jl. Gunung Sari, Peliatan T: +62 361 977 888 www.mayaubud.com Charming resort to the east of Ubud, on a stunning ten-hectare property set in the Petanu river valley. Activities from yoga sessions to cycling trips, and the spa is excellent. Rooms are comfortable and villas even better, while the expansive views lend themselves to lazy afternoons around the swimming pools. BaliSavvy | 87
My Bali While based in Hanoi 15 years ago, SUSI JOHNSTON reluctantly agreed to visit Bali for two weeks. She’s still here. “Raised as a nomad,” she went to school in the Seattle area and to university in Scotland, but has lived in Bali longer than anywhere else and has no plans to leave. With Macan Tidur in Ubud and ICON Asian Arts in Seminyak, she expresses through her work a love of beautiful antiquities from all over Indonesia.
“
My Bali story was arguably the larger prototype for Eat, Pray, Love. But I never did the “eat” part, and that’s probably why I’m so skinny. My story reduced to headlines is basically like this: Divorce. Quit hot city job. Retire at 35 to write and travel. End up in Bali. Live in Ubud palace for seven years. Write. Publish. Study Indonesian and Balinese intensively. Hang out with high priests and healers and princes and scholars and all that. Convert palace garage
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on Monkey Forest Road into shop in partnership with Ubud rebel prince. Success in the antiquities trade un-retires me. Gorgeous, charismatic Italian genius, resident in Bali, finds me and sweeps me off my feet. So I did the “pray” and “love” parts. And now is the “happily ever after” part. We have our Ubud shop (Macan Tidur), a new gallery in Seminyak (ICON), and an international business providing the best that Indonesia has to
Susi Johnston of ICON Asian Arts in the galleryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back office. BaliSavvy BaliSavvy >>| 91
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ISLAND INSIDER
offer to discerning clients all over the world.” What is the philosophy behind Macan Tidur? “From the beginning, working with my business partner Tjok Agung, our ideas for Macan Tidur were never about making money. We simply saw truly beautiful and powerful things coming from all of the cultures of Indonesia, and thought, “If we choose what we like, what makes our hearts beat faster, then certainly there will be other people who feel the same.” We would just do things our own way and present things in a setting we thought was beautiful and meaningful, and if people liked it, great. We have always focused not on cultural property, but on arts and artefacts that were the possessions of individuals, yet reflect the power and lasting significance of their cultures and the time when they lived. We like to offer pieces that give people an invitation to understand the many cultures of Indonesia on a personal level. In this way, I think we have been able to inspire many people who 92 | BaliSavvy
knew nothing about Indonesia to forge a hearfelt bond to this country and its history and its people.” What does Bali mean to you? “It’s my home. Among all of the places I have lived there is none that is better or worse than any other. Every place has a mix of positives and negatives. What seems to matter is finding a place where the mix of plus and minus strikes a balance with your own strengths and shortcomings. And then adapting yourself to take the downside in stride, once you know that you are where you belong. There is no paradise on earth. Heaven and hell are situations we create by our own perceptions and reactions to the world around us, minute to minute, day to day. That’s so obvious. What did my grandmother say? ‘Bloom where you’re planted.’” Facing page, foreground: Song dynasty earthenware trade jars dredged up from a river in Borneo. Top, left to right: A slate bride-price stone from Irian Jaya; an ossuary door from Torajaland; a warrior’s shield from Nias Island; a carved ironwood pillar from Kalimantan.
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What’s the best meal you’ve eaten on Bali? “For restaurant dinners, I’m very partial to Agung’s Red and Black Nasi Goreng at Chandi Restaurant on Jalan Oberoi. Chandi has always managed to deliver a very good plate, without exception. I think it’s because the chef is someone who genuinely cares, and deeply enjoys what he does. I also enjoy the raw food championed by Diana von Cranach from Puri Ganesha. She has done a tremendous job of bringing really delicious local ingredients directly to the palate without undue interpolation. Now that’s a taste of Bali, pure and unadulterated. She’s been working with the chefs at Como Shambhala, the Amandari, the Legian, and many other top venues, to explore the gastronomic potential of raw food. For me a great meal is one that leaves you feeling charmed, nourished, fascinated, and never ever weighed down. We all should relish most a meal that leaves our palate enchanted, our imagination stimulated, our stomach comfortable, and our body properly fed and energized. 94 | BaliSavvy
I enjoy eating at Chandi for this reason. Also at Sardine, since they’ve got a brilliant new chef. And at Puri Ganesha. And at any number of good Japanese restaurants in Bali (the Japanese totally get it about the experience of a meal and its benefits for the body, and about maximising the multisensory experience without just maximising the belly-bloat). I also enjoy full-on classic culinary assaults like Mozaic. Mozaic whisks masterpieces out of its kitchen every second. But too many masterpieces in one meal can leave you feeling like you’ve been on a two-hour group tour of the Louvre, and the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo and the Monets are all a grand blur and you feel dizzy and a bit sickish. I say Mozaic is unsurpassed, but go à la carte, pick one dish or two, enjoy it to its fullest, then go back the next day, and the next and the next and the next. Don’t do the Louvre in one go.” Breakfast? “Breakfast is good at La Lucciola. Especially on weekends because they don’t make croissants on
Mozaic’s Chocolate Mousse Raspberry Rose Dessert.
weekdays. They had a great pastry chef ten years ago who taught them to make great pastries in the grand style, and they cannot be beat on this score, so Breakfast at Lucciola beats Breakfast at Tiffany’s any day of the week. They give good Eggs Benedict. That said, breakfast at Biku is a habit I intend to cultivate more deeply and maintain forever. Biku is the go-to place for a good breakfast in an atmosphere that
will cosset you from unconsciousness into the clamorous world of Bali today. I also like Café Bali for hangover breakfasts, don’t know why. Something about their breakfast specials detoxes and grounds the wobbly wires of the old bod after a long night out.” Your favorite view? “Sunrise over Mt Rinjani in Lombok, as viewed from Pura Pasar Agung, the highest temple in Bali, BaliSavvy | 95
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after spending a long, cold night there during the temple odalon (anniversary festival). Nothing beats that.” Favorite people... “Although I don’t like favoritism in general, some of my favorite people in Bali are Ngurah Karyadi, Made Wijaya, Wayan Juniartha, Tjok Sawitri, Tjok Raka Kerthyasa, Degung Santikarma, Rio Helmi, Diana Darling, Ida Pedanda Made Gunung, Dayu Suci the niece of the last truly high priest of Bali from Dawan Kelod Klungkung, and Tjok Kris from Ubud who created Klub Kokos in Bangkiangsidem. And I’m very partial as well to John and Cynthia Hardy, who never take no for an answer and keep wading through the mud, no matter how deep or mucky, to make a positive difference in their lifetimes, not just for Bali, but for the world. I also deeply admire Petra Schneider who has for a decade or more spearheaded IDEP Foundation in Ubud, with disaster relief and community development efforts that have made miracles real. And Susan Roziadi and her 96 | BaliSavvy
husband Teguh, who created the Sunrise School, the Sunrise Organic Market, and Yayasan Intaran. And the late Lucy Wisdom who not only piloted the Sumatran Orangutan Society from its inception, but also made great positive differences in the lives of tens of thousands of people who she touched with her wit and her warmth. And I tip a very big widebrimmed sun-hat to Linda Garland, without whom bamboo would not be what it is today, and without whom, so many landscapes and communities around the region would have long since given up all hope.” Best parties? “My 50th birthday party on 7 July at Hotel Tugu was the best party I have ever attended. It was a gathering of people who care about life, love, beauty, art, innovation, the future, and most of all each other. That for me was magic. The other best-of-the-best parties have been any happenings at Word of Mouth in Seminyak. Birthdays and other special parties at the Living Room. The birth-
SUSI JOHNSTON
Weekend breakfasts at La Lucciola: “They give good Eggs Benedict.”
day party at Sardine for the 60th birthday of Pascal (the owner) and his mother’s 80th. And Ashley Bickerton’s most recent birthday party, when I was the last guest to leave. It’s hard to negotiate those coral-rock stairs at 4am in the dark after lashings of chocolate cake and libations.” Favorite cultural moments “The times I took it upon myself to follow long-haul Ubud major
ceremonies from start to finish. It normally takes a more than a month, night and day, 24 hours a day. When I committed to these ceremonies from start to finish, whether they were royal cremations or weddings or temple rededications, at the end, I felt something ineffable had taken place, in the community and in all of the people who involved themselves from start to finish. It’s a cultural, emotional and spiritual BaliSavvy | 97
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Tour de France every time. And almost all the Balinese people who have responsibilities for major ceremonies undergo the same kind of transformational experiences. Many times in their lives. Many times in a year, in fact. Another important and moving cultural experience, was when I was ordered to undergo the preparation process and rituals of a pawintenan, which is a kind of spiritual cleansing and ordination ceremony. It is the process that pemangku priests go through before they can be pemangkus. It is the process by which one is prepared as a human vessel to receive knowledge in Bali.” Best galleries “There are only a few galleries in Bali worth mentioning, and I will put them all on the same level. They are Biasa Artspace, Kendra Gallery, Gaya Fusion, Tony Raka, Ganesha Gallery and Komaneka. And Griya Santrian throws the occasional party and show.” To relax? “Home, always at home in Pererenan is the best for relaxation. 98 | BaliSavvy
Ideally preceded by a massage from one of the skilled therapists from Espace spa in Seminyak (I go there, or they come here).” How chic is Bali? Actually it is indescribably chic. What happens is that creative people from everywhere in the world bring their best to Bali, and then their best is thereafter inspired by Bali, and Bali is inspired by it, and they keep coming back. It is a phenomenon that absolutely involves the Balinese, and the other Indonesians who live on this island or visit it. I keep going back to Mochtar Lubis’ seminal work, The Indonesian Character in which he deduces that almost the sole savior of the Indonesian people is their creativity, and their ability to foster creativity. Bali is a crucible for creativity and innovation without rival. If there were less barriers and more acceptance of the participation of young, innovative, entrepreneurial creatives here, Bali could become the creative hub of all of Asia, and reap many benefits as a result.”
Macan Tidur: 19th century roof pillar base from Bali, representing a guardian figure which consists of a winged head. Made of jackfruit wood.
ICON: Three ancient wood offering bowls from an abandoned and disused cave tomb in Torajaland. Behind them is an architectural panel from a traditional Torajan house.
SUSI JOHNSTON
INTERVIEW DIRECTORY
GALLERY MACAN TIDUR At Puri Muwa Palace Upper Monkey Forest Road, Ubud T. +62 361 977121 ICON ASIAN ARTS Jl. Oberoi 17,Seminyak T. +62 361 733875 CHANDI RESTAURANT Jl. Laksamana No. 72, Seminyak T. +62 361 731060 PURI GANESHA Pemuteran Gerokgak, Singaraja T. +62 362 93433
MOZAIC Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T. +62 36 1 975768 LA LUCCIOLA Jl. Petitenget, Seminyak T. +62 36 1 73 0838 BIKU Jl. Petitenget No. 888 T. +62 361 8570888 CAFE BALI Jl. Laksamana, Seminyak T. +62 361 736484
COMO SHAMBHALA Banjar Begawan, Gianyar T. +62 361 978888 AMANDARI Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud T. +62 361 975333 THE LEGIAN Jl. Kayu Aya, Seminyak T. +62 361 730622 SARDINE Jl Petitenget No. 21 T. +62 361 738202
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Hotel Tugu, the setting for Susi’s 50th birthday party – “the best party I have ever attended. It was a gathering of people who care about life, love, beauty, art, innovation, the future, and most of all each other. That for me was magic.
SUNRISE ORGANIC MARKET Mon, Wed, Fri: 8am-Midday Jl. Mertasari, Kerobokan T. +62 361 735824 SUMATRAN ORANGUTAN SOCIETY Jl. Hanoman 44B (behind KAFE), Ubud T. +62 361 972906
KENDRA GALLERY Jl. Drupadi No. 88B Basangkasa, Seminyak T. +62 361 736628 GAYA FUSION Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud T. +62 361 979253 TONY RAKA Jl. Raya Mas No. 86, Mas, Ubud T. +62 361 7816785
LINDA GARLAND www.bamboocentral.org http://panchoran-retreat.com
GANESHA GALLERY Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay T. +62 361 701010
HOTEL TUGU Jl. Batu Bolong, Canggu T. +62 361 731701
KOMANEKA FINE ART GALLERY Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud T. +62 361 976090
WORD OF MOUTH Jl. Kunti 9, Seminyak T. +62 361 8475797
GRIYA SANTRIAN Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47, Sanur T. +62 361 288181
THE LIVING ROOM Jl.Petitenget, Kerobokan T. +62 361.735735
ESPACE SPA Jl Raya Seminyak T. +62 361 730828
BIASA ARTSPACE Jl. Raya Seminyak 34 T. +62 361 7442902 BaliSavvy | 101
INTERVIEW DIRECTORY
IDEP FOUNDATION Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T. +62 361 981 504
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THE GUIDE
Something sweet from Metis.
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Bali’s Dining Scene Sarah Dougherty In the crazy, frantic restaurant scene that makes up Bali’s culinary landscape, picking and choosing among them involves starting out with certain criteria. From the sublime to the ridiculous, we have it all here. From award-winning five star chefs creating astounding meals daily, to the consistently good independent restaurants, to the Japanese, the French – we even have a Norwegian restaurant and a Macedonian one. Some of the local restaurants, like Ibu Oka’s in Ubud where the suckling pigs are turning into celebrities in their own right, will meet some people’s criteria for the best. Most of all, the greatest difference is the quality of the ingredients and the increasing amount of great local produce finding its way on to our plates. Perhaps the greatest advance of all is the coffee – once a murky brew with UHT milk was the standard, now we have devoted baristas, boutique growers and roasters and coffee shops worth hanging out in. If one can find a great cup of coffee, surely all else is right with the world.
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Dining
THE GUIDE
#5 Melting At Metis Approve or disapprove, Bali’s best chefs have a bit of a competition going on over the best foie gras dish. St Regis’ foie gras with fried eggs deserves top marks for the ultimate Brunch dish. Overall though, the clear winner has to be Chef Doudou’s, formerly of Warisan, now Metis. His meltingly beautiful seared foie gras served with sliced apple and warm raspberry vinaigrette has delighted diners for over a decade. Dare to Degust Culinary adventurers are well rewarded on the island of the chefs (oh gods!). Why have one course 104 | BaliSavvy
Metis Chef Doudou’s foie gras: meltingly beautiful seared foie gras served with sliced apple and warm raspberry vinaigrette.
when you can have seven or so? Chris Salans of Mozaic is partly to blame as he introduced us to the concept of demanding more, and he is still getting plenty of applause for the effort. Oscar Perez at Kayuputi, St Regis, is giving him a stylish run for our money and at the sublime Oberoi Resort a personal favourite, Enrico Wahl, will give you plenty of food for thought. Writing The Book It may seem strange that a chef named Heinz Von Holzen may be the defining force behind Balinese cuisine, but with the publication of his latest book on the
DINING
Curious to discover the secrets of the local cuisine? Talk to Heinz Von Holzen, owner of Bumbu Bali in Tanjung Benoa, where you can not only enjoy authentic Balinese food but also learn to cook it.
subject, this may well be the case. He also owns Bumbu Bali in Tanjung Benoa, over near Nusa Dua, where you can not only enjoy authentic Balinese food but you can also learn to cook it at his cooking school. Curious to discover the secrets of the local cuisine, in a language you can understand? Talk to Heinz. Grocer and Grind The Aussies are just all over the coffee thing and Grocer and Grind in Seminyak is the natural extension of the national obsession with the bean in all its fashionable guises. Grocer’s owner isn’t the only Australian who is injecting
a little style into the coffee shop however – Zuchini Café and The Corner’s Tuck Shop, all on Jl. Laksamana/Oberoi are putting their own spin on the beverage while offering some fashionable distractions as well. Down in Kuta, Mug Shots is the place to find our latest favourite Qita coffee, roasted right there using the famous Gayo Mandheling Arabica beans from Sumatra. Put that in your cup and drink it! Leisurely Lunch The latest sensation to tickle our taste buds while lulling us into a state of complete relaxation is the Bali Eco Village in Belok/Sidan on BaliSavvy | 105
THE GUIDE
Bumbu Bali
Dining
THE THE GUIDE GUIDE
#5 the way to Kintamani. Just perfect when you fancy a scenic drive into the picturesque mountains, Bali Eco Village is almost completely self sustainable and that includes growing their own food and cooking it Italian style. The home-style Italian meals are just like Mama intended, from the home-made gnocchi, ravishing organic rucola salads to the free range chickens and pigs. We think you might want to stay a while.
Mozaic Why have one course when you can have seven or so? Chris Salans of Mozaic introduced Bali diners to the concept of demanding more, and he is still getting plenty of applause for the effort.
Bumbu bali Jl. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa T. +62 361 774502, 772299 Kayuputi St. Regis Bali Resort, Nusa Dua T. +62 361 8478111
#1
METIS Jl. Petitenget 6 Kerobokan T. +62 361 737888
MOZAIC Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud T. +62 361 975768 106 | BaliSavvy
JIMBARAN & ULUWATU
CARDMEMBER DEALS
AMERICAN EXPRESS SelectsSM
108 | BaliSavvy
The World offers. We Select. You Enjoy. Exclusive to American Express® Cardmembers, American Express Selects has an amazing range of travel, leisure, dining and shopping offers from all over Bali. Whether you are about to go shopping for something special or want to reserve a table for a special meal; whatever the occasion, you can take advantage of a special price. Perhaps you are planning a holiday and want to stay at a top hotel without paying a premium — check out the available offers at some of Bali’s best properties. Why not take a look and discover what you could be enjoying right now? We guarantee you will find something to inspire.
STUFF
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JIMBARAN & ULUWATU ACTIVITY AMERICAN EXPRESS SELECTS SM
Why not share a special meal with a loved one at the InterContinental Jimbaran? See p.117 for the offer available to Cardmembers.
KUTA & TUBAN
Where to stay Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence Jl. Wana Segara No. 33, Kuta Contemporary property just a short stroll from Kuta beach. • 30% savings on published rates • 20% savings on total food bill at Sugar & Spice
www.astonkuta.com T. +62 361 754 999 E. Info@AstonKuta.com
Bali Dynasty Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta Beachside resort in South Kuta. • 10% savings on best available rates • 15% savings on total food bill at Gracie Kelly’s & Golden Lotus Restaurants WWW.BALIDYNASTY.COM T. +62 361 752 403 E. info@balidynasty.com
Discovery Kartika Plaza Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta Rooms, suites and villas by Kuta beach. • 50% savings on published rates • 15% savings on total bill at restaurants
WWW.discoverykartikaplaza.COM T. +62 361 751 067 E. RESERVATION@DISCOVERYKARTIKAPLAZA.COM
Hotel Santika Premiere Beach Resort Bali Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban A semi-boutique hotel by the beach in Tuban. • Special Deluxe Room rate at USD120nett/rm/night (incl. breakfast for two) • 15% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks) at Kunyit Bali Restaurant WWW.SANTIKABALI.COM T. +62 361 751 267 E. santika@santikabali.com
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Boardwalk*International Bali Garden Beach Resort Jl. Dewi Sartika, Kuta Mediterranean cuisine in a beachfront setting. • 15% savings on total bill
WWW.BALIGARDENBEACHRESOT.COM T. +62 361 752 725 E. info@baligardenbeachresort.com
QUEENS’s Tandoor *Indian Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 73, Kuta Authentic fine Indian cuisine. • 15% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks)
WWW.bali.queenstandoor.com T. +62 361 732 770 E: bali2@queenstandoor.com
What to Do Jalanidi Spa Kuta Paradiso Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta relaxation, rejuvenation: experience the traditional tropical spa. • 15% savings on all treatments
WWW.kutaparadisohotel.COM T. +62 361 761 414 E. info@kutaparadisohotel.com
Tea Tree Spa Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali Jl. Wana Segara No. 33, Kuta Full-day pampering or choose from an a la carte menu of treatments. • 15% savings on all treatments WWW.HOLIDAYINNRESORTS.COM T. +62 361 755 577 E. BARUNA@BALI.HOLIDAYINN.COM
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KUTA & & TUBAN TUBAN KUTA
Where to DINE
LEGIAN & SEMINYAK
Where to stay Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa Jl. Abimanyu (Dhyana Pura), Seminyak 59 suites situated on 3,500 sqm. of prime beachfront. • 10% savings on best available rates • 15% savings on total bill at all restaurants • 15% savings on all spa treatments WWW.bali.anantara.com T. +62 361 737 773 E. seminyak@anantara.com
The Haven Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 500, Seminyak Contemporary resort in the heart of Seminyak. • Minimum of 3 nights stay using best available rates will receive one time 120 minutes Atma Spa treatment and one time three course dinner for two WWW. thehavenbali.com T. +62 361 738 001 E. INFO@THEHAVENBALI.COM
Bali Island Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Petitenget 469, Seminyak A private complex of 10 self-contained luxury villas. • 40% savings on published rates incl. 24 hour butler service, 24 hour internet service
WWW.islandvillasbali.com T. +62 361 736 656 E. info@islandvillasbali.com
The Elysian Boutique Villa Jl. Sari Dewi No. 18, Seminyak Twenty six private pool Bali villas with full resort facilities. • 35% savings on published rates • 1 hr. massage per person (min. 2-night stay) • 15% savings on total bill at Rush Bamboo Restaurant • 15% savings on all spa treatments at Spa at The Elysian WWW.theelysian.com T. +62 361 730 999 E. res@theelysian.com
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Bamboo Restaurant*South East Asian & Western The Amala, Jl. Kunti No. 108, Seminyak Intimate al fresco restaurant open for all-day dining. • 15% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks)
WWW.THEAMALA.COM T. +62 361 738 866 E. BLISS@THEMALA.COM
Bella Rosa* Italian Padma Resort Bali at Legian, Jl. Padma No. 1 Fine dining establishment specializing in Italian cuisine. • 15% savings on total bill
www.padmaresortbali.com T. +62 361 752 111 E. fb@padmaresortbali.com
What to Do Luxe Spa Sentosa Private Villa and Spa, Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, Seminyak Specialist treatments, therapies and packages for both men and women. • 20% savings on all treatments WWW.BALISENTOSA.COM T. +62 361 730 333 E. reservations@balisentosa.com
Prana Spa The Villas Bali Hotel & Spa Jl. Kunti No. 118X, Seminyak A spa that blends Indian palatial complexity with Moroccan rustic simplicity. • 15% savings on spa treatments WWW.THEVILLAS.NET T. +62 361 730 840 E. CONTACT@THEVILLAS.NET
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LEGIAN & SEMINYAK
Where to dine
CARDMEMBER DEALS
Kuta & Tuban Where to Stay Bali Garden Beach Resort Jl. Dewi Sartika, Tuban T. +62 361 752 725 • 50% off published rates • 15% off total bill at Boardwalk Ramada Bintang Bali Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta, Tuban T. +62 361 753 292 • 50% off published rates for Superior & Deluxe Rooms The Patra Bali Resort & Villas Jl. Ir. H. Juanda, Tuban T. +62 361 751 161 • 50% off published rates (add. USD95++ for Deluxe room) • 20% off total bill & spa treatments Where to Dine Dewi Sinta *International Rama Beach Hotel Jl. Jenggala, Kuta T. +62 361 751 557 • 15% off total food bill Gabah*Indonesian RAMAYANA RESORTS & SPA Jl. Bakung Sari, Kuta T. +62 361 751 864
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•
20% off total food bill
The Grill Co rne r *Asian & Western
The Vira Bali Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza No. 127, Kuta T. +62 361 765 700 • 15% off total bill Tepan Noodle*Japanese Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta T. +62 361 751 067 • 15% off total bill Sugar & Spice*International Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence Jl. Wana Segara No. 2-5, Kuta T. +62 361 754 999 • 20% off total food bill WHAT TO DO D’Topeng Kingdom Jl. Setiabudi No. 10, Simpang Siur, Kuta T. +62 361 764 777 • 20% off total bill (a la carte only) at D’Topeng Kingdom Restaurant • 20% savings storewide at D’Topeng Gallery • 20% off entrance fee at D’Topeng Heritage Art Museum
Where to Stay
Where to Dine
RANADI VILLA Jl. Drupadi No. 28, Seminyak T. +62 361 737 908 • 45% off published rates, complimentary minibar upon arrival, return airport transfer • stay 2 nights: additional 60 min. spa for 2 • stay 3 nights: additional 60 min spa for 2 & one set dinner for 2 • 15% off total bill at Ranadi Restaurant • 15% savings on all spa treatments
PRANA RESTAURANT The Villas Hotel and Spa Jl. Kunti No. 118X, Seminyak T. +62 361 730 840 • 15% off total food bill
Le Jardin Boutique Villa Jl. Sarinande No. 7, Seminyak T. +62 361 730 165 • 35% off published rates for one bedroom villa and 30% savings on published rates for two-bedroom villa • 20% off total bill at restaurant Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma No. 1, Legian T. +62 361 752 111 • 10% savings on Padma daily rates, incl. return airpot transfer for min. 2 nights stay • 15% savings on total bill at Bella Rosa, Tenkai & Taman Ayun Restaurants
RESTAURANT GRILL & WINE (RGW) *Grill & Wine Anantara Seminyak Resort & Spa Jl. Abimanyu (Dhyana Pura), Seminyak T. +62 361 737 773 • 15% off total bill What to Do Spa@Ranadi Ranadi Villas Jl. Drupadi No. 28 T. +62 361 737 908 • 15% savings on all treatments Spa at The Elysian The Elysian Boutique Villas Jl. Sari Dewi No. 18, Seminyak T. +62 361 730 999 • 15% savings on all treatments
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CARDMEMBER DEALS
Legian & Seminyak
JIMBARAN, ULUWATU, NUSA DUA & TANJUNG BENOA
Where to stay Bulgari Resort Bali Jl. Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu Luxury property with magnificent views over the Indian Ocean. • 10% savings on best available rates
WWW.BULGARIHOTELS.COM T. +62 361 847 1000 E. info@bulgarihotels.com
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay Elegant resort in a dramatic hilltop setting overlooking the bay. • Guaranteed late check out until 4pm for all packages published at Four Seasons Resort Bali website
WWW.FOURSEASONS.COM T. +62 361 701 010
InterContinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran 14 hectares of tropical landscape along a white sand beach. • Stay 4 nights pay 3 nights for staying at Club InterContinental Room on best flexible rates • 20% savings on total food bill at all restaurants • 20% savings on all spa treatments WWW.BALI.INTERCONTINENTAL.COM T. +62 361 701 888 E. BALI@INTERCONTI.COM
Kayumanis Nusa Dua Private Villa & Spa Kawasan BTDC, Nusa Dua An exclusive enclave of luxuriously appointed pavilions within secluded walled gardens. • 30% savings on published rates • 25% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks) at Piasan • 25% savings on all spa treatments WWW.KAYUMANIS.COM T. +62 361 770 777 E. nusadua@kayumanis.com
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Bambu Restaurant *Asian International Banyan Tree Ungasan Jl. Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan Indonesia’s culinary heritage and international classics. • 20% savings on total bill
WWW.ungasanbaliresort.com T. +62 361 300 7000
Jimbaran Gardens*Seafood InterContinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran Casual open-air dining with stunning views over the bay. • 20% savings on food bill
WWW.BALI.INTERCONTINENTAL.COM T. +62 361 701 888 E. BALI@INTERCONTI.COM
Bella Singaraja*Italian InterContinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran Open for dinner only from 6.30pm. • 20% savings on total food bill
WWW.BALI.INTERCONTINENTAL.COM T. +62 361 701 888 E. BALI@INTERCONTI.COM
THE WARUNG *Balinese & Indonesian Alila Villas Uluwatu Jl. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambyak, Desa Pecatu, Uluwatu Authentic wholesome Indonesian and Balinese cuisine. • 15% savings on total food bill WWW.ALILAHOTELS.COM T. +62 361 848 2166 E. uluwatu@alilahotels.com One-bedroom pool villa
Published rate USD 1070++ Rate is inclusive of breakfast for two, Alila Hospitalities, Wi-Fi access, daily refreshment, complimentary yoga classes based on schedule, host (butler) service. One-bedroom Pool villa facilities include; 32 inch Samsung LCD TV with satellite channels, DVD player, telephone and complimentary WIFI connections throughout the property, safety deposit box, Espresso coffee machine and luxury whole leaf teas by TWG tea with tea making facilities, private mini-bar, private pool, outdoor dining area, private cabana. A deluxe sized bathroom is equipped with indoor and outdoor rain shower & jet shower, bathtub and luxurious Ploh linens; thick towels, yukata-style bathrobes, 300 thread-count bed linens and duvet. Separate bathroom vanity sets for couples complement an exclusive range of premium Alila bath amenities specially made for HIM and HER.
Two-bedroom pool villa
Published rate USD 2000++ Rate is inclusive of breakfast for four persons, Alila Hospitalities, Wi-Fi access, daily refreshment, complimentary yoga classes based on schedule, host (butler) service. Two-
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JIMBARAN, ULUWATU, NUSA DUA & TANJUNG BENOA
WhERE to DINE
UBUD
Where to stay Alila Ubud Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Gianyar Tranquil hillside retreat on the edge of the Ayung river valley. • 15% savings on best available rates • 15% savings on total bill at restaurant (except alcohol) • 15% savings on spa treatments WWW.alilahotels.com T. +62 361 975 963 E. ubud@alilahotels.com
Furama Villas & Spa Ubud Bali Banjar Bindu Mambal Resort blending contemporary chic with minimalist style. • 60% savings on published rates • 1 60min. massage for two, return airport transfer, 1 dinner for two for min. 2 nights stay • 20% savings on total bill at restaurant WWW.furamavillasandspa.com T. + 62 361 746 3064 E. fvsubud@furama.com
Kupu-Kupu Barong Villas & Tree Spa Banjar Kedewatan, Ubud, Gianyar Peaceful hideaway in lush tropical gardens. • 10% savings on best available rates/internet rates on Duplex Villa and Duplex Pool Villa • 15% savings on total bill at La View Restaurant • 10% savings on Mango Tree Spa by L’Occitane WWW.kupubarongubud.com T. +62 361 975 478
PANDAWAS VILLAS Jl. Raya Kendaraan No. 1, Banjar Kepitu, Desa Kendran Kecamatan Tegallalang, Gianyar Luxurious and private residences on extensive property. • 20% savings on published rates for 3 nights stay • 30% savings on published rates for 5 nights stay • 40% savings on published rates for 10 nights stay WWW.PANDAWAS-VILLAS.com T. +62 361 971 877 E. INFO@PANDAWAS-VILLAS.com
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UBUD
Where to dine Ibah Restaurant*International Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Friendly and peaceful Balinese-style restaurant. • 20% savings on total bill
WWW.ibah-bali.com T. +62 361 974 466 E. info@ibah-bali.com
Cascades Restaurant*International Viceroy Bali, Jl. Lanyahan, Banjar Nagi, Ubud Fine dining and wines in scenic surroundings. • 15% savings on total bill
WWW.cascadesbali.com T. +62 361 971 777 E. resv@cascadesbali.com
What to Do The Spa at The Chedi Club Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Ubud A wide range of soothing therapies and body treatments. • 15% savings on all treatments
WWW.ghmhotels.com T. +62 361 975 825 E. chediclububud@ghmhotels.com
Kamandalu Guest Activities Jl. Andong, Banjar Nagi, Ubud Morning tours, cooking classes, village cycling, picnic lunches, Balinese dancing, and more. • 15% savings on guest activities
WWW. kamandaluresort.com T. +62 361 975 825 E. sales@kamandaluresort.com
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CARDMEMBER DEALS
JIMBARAN, ULUWATU, NUSA DUA & TANJUNG BENOA WHERE TO STAY Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort Kawasan Wisata BTDC Lot 1, Nusa Dua T. +62 361 771 510 • Special rates starting at USD130++/room/night • 15% savings on total food bill at all restaurants • 15% savings on all treatments at YHI Spa THE BALE Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Nusa Dua T. +62 361 775 111 • 20% savings on published rates • 15% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks) • 20% savings on spa treatments (except Wellness Programs)
(except alcoholic drinks) Piasan *Italian Fine Dining Kayumanis Nusa Dua Private Villa & Spa Kawasan BTDC, Nusa Dua T. +62 361 770 777 • 25% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks) ROCK BAR AYANA Resort & Spa Bali Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T. +62 361 702 222 • 20% savings on total bill SORRENTO* Mediterranean Melia Bali Villas & Spa Kawasan Wisata BTDC Lot 1, Nusa Dua T. +62 361 771 510 • 20% savings on total food bill
Where to Dine
What to Do
Cire*International Alila Villas Uluwatu Jl. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambyak, Desa Pecatu, Uluwatu T. +62 361 848 2166 • 15% savings on total food bill
SPA ULUWATU InterContinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran T. +62 361 701 888 • 20% savings on all treatments
Dava*Modern Asian Ayana Resort and Spa Bali Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T. +62 361 702 222 • 20% savings on total bill 120 | BaliSavvy
Thermes Marines Bali Ayana Resort and Spa Bali Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T. +62 361 702 222 • 20% savings on published rates for all treatments (except Spa on The Rock)
Where to Stay FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN Sayan, Ubud T. +62 361 977 577 • Guaranteed late check out until 4pm for all packages published on Four Seasons Resort Bali website The Chedi Club AT TANAH GAJAH Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja T. +62 361 975 685 • 10% savings on internet rates incl. 1x30 min. back & neck massage for two or 1X30 min. reflexology for two • 15% savings on on total bill at restaurant • 15% savings on spa treatments. The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Pengosekan T. +62 361 978 444 • 40% savings on published rates • Min. 2 nights stay will get 1X lunch for two • Min. 3 nights stay will get 1X2 hrs massage for two Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Banjar Nagi, Ubud T. + 62 361 971 777 • 5% savings on best available rates
• •
15% savings on total bill 15% savings on spa treatments
Where to Dine Kemiri*South East Asian Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Banjar Lungsiakan, Kedewatan T. +62 361 972 448 • 15% savings on total food bill Petulu*Asian Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Banjar Nagi, Ubud T. +62 361 975 825 • 15% savings on total bill What to Do Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Serma Cok Ngurah Gambir, Singapadu, Batubulan, Gianyar T. +62 361 299 352 • 15% savings on admission fee Spa AT Ibah Warwick Ibah Luxury Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud T. +62 361 974 466 • 20% savings on all spa treatments
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CARDMEMBER DEALS
UBUD
SANUR
WHERE TO STAY Waka Maya Resort Jl. Tanjung, Sanur Balinese-style dwellings in a secluded environment. • 20% savings on published rates • 15% savings on total bill
WWW.WAKAmaya.com T. +62 361 289 912
What to Do Bali Kite Center School Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 121XX, Sanur Offering IKO certification in kite-surfing. • 10% savings on course fee and rental equipments • 10% savings on selected shop items
WWW.BALIKITECENTER.COM T. +62 361 283 835 E. FANTY@BALIKITECENTER.COM
Bali International Rafting Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 5, Padang Galak, Sanur Whitewater rafting down the Telaga Waja river. • 15% savings on published rates (US$77/person)
WWW.CLUBAQUA.COM T. +62 361 281 408 E. INFO@CLUBAQUABALI.COM
Sea Walker Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 5, Padang Galak, Sanur Unique diving system allows everyone to observe the underwater world, without needing diving certification. • 15% savings on published rates (US$85/person)
WWW.CLUBAQUABALI.COM T. +62 361 281 408 E. INFO@CLUBAQUABALI.COM
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Hotel Tugu Bali Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach Romantic boutique hotel by the beach. • 20% savings on published rates • 20% savings on total food bill at Bale Sutra • 10% savings on total food bill at Tugu Dining • 10% savings on spa treatments at Waroeng Djamoe Spa www.tuguhotels.com T. +62 361 731 701 E. bali@tuguhotels.com
Hotel Tugu Lombok Jl. Pantai Sire, West Lombok A 6-hectare property by the untouched white sands of Sire. • 20% savings on published rates • 10% savings on total food bill at Tugu Dining • 10% savings on spa treatments at Hening Swarga Spa www.tuguhotels.com T. +62 370 6120 111 E. lombok@tuguhotels.com
Waka Gangga Resort Banjar Nyeh Gangga, Desa Sudimara 10 bungalows on gently sloping rice terraces by a black sand beach close to Tanah Lot. • 20% savings on published rates: stay 5 nights, pay 4 • 15% savings on total bill at restaurant
WWW.wakagangga.com T. +62 361 416 257 E. INFO@wakagangga.com
Where to Dine BALE SUTRA Hotel Tugu Bali Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach Oriental cuisine influenced by Babah Peranakan culture. • 20% savings on total food bill
www.tuguhotels.com T. +62 361 731 701 E. bali@tuguhotels.com
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THE REST OF BALI
Where to Stay
THE REST OF BALI DEALS CARDMEMBER
Where to stay ALILA MANGGIS Buitan Manggis, Karangasem Seaside resort with spa and Balinese cooking school. • 15% savings on best available rates • 15% savings on total bill at Seasalt Restaurant (except alcoholic drinks) • 15% savings on spa treatments WWW.ALILAHOTELS.COM/MANGGIS T. +62 363 410 11
Rama Candidasa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Sengkidu, Amlapura, Karangasem Beachside resort in East Bali. • 40% savings on published rates incl. 15 minutes welcome massage and entitlement to join resort activities • 15% savings on total food bill at Garpu Restaurant
WWW.RAMACANDIDASAHOTEL.COM T. +62 363 419 74 E. INFO@RAMACANDIDASAHOTEL.COM
Waka Nusa Resort Banjar Kaja, Desa Lembongan, Kecamatan Nusa Penida Grass-roofed bungalows on Nusa Lembongan island. • 20% savings on published rates • Stay 5 nights pay only 4 nights • 15% savings on total bill at restaurant
WWW.wakanusa.com T. +62 361 484 085
Waka Shorea Resort West Bali National Park, Labuan Lalang, Singaraja Secluded resort on the peninsula of Bali’s national park. • 20% savings on published rates • 15% savings on total bill at restaurant
WWW.wakashorea.com T. +62 362 944 99
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COTTA*All Day Dining Alila Villas Soori Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan From continental cuisine to regional Indonesian flavors. • 15% savings on total food bill
WWW.alilahotels.com T. +62 361 894 6388 E. soori@alilahotels.com
SEASALT*International Alila Manggis Buitan Manggis, Karangasem A contemporary menu and a range of Indonesian and Balinese favorites. • 15% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks) WWW.alilahotels.com T. +62 363 410 11 E. manggis@alilahotels.com
TUGU DINING*Chinese –Babah Peranakan Tugu Hotel Lombok Jl. Pantai Sire, West Lombok Unique authentic dining experiences with different themes and venues. • 10% savings on total food bill WWW.tuguhotels.COM T. +62 370 6120 111 E. Lombok@tuguhotels.com
WHAT to DO Waroeng Djamoe Tugu Hotel Bali Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach Spa treatments that draw on traditional Javanese wisdom. • 10% savings on spa treatments
WWW.TUGUHOTELS.COM T. +62 361 731 701 E. BALI@TUGUHOTELS.COM
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THE REST OF BALI
Where to dine
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: •
Unless otherwise stated, offers are valid until April 30, 2011.
•
Payments must be made on American Express® Card.
•
Offers cannot be exchanged for cash and in conjunction with other offers, promotions, privileges and vouchers.
•
Offers are valid for direct bookings only and not valid on Eves of Public Holidays, Public Holidays, and special occasions.
•
Dining offers are valid for dine-in only and limited per visit/card/ charge/table.
•
Unless otherwise stated, advance reservations are required for offers under lodging and travel categories.
•
Rooms, upgrades, and other complimentary offers are subject to availability.
•
Some lodging offers are subject to high season surcharge and/or blackout dates.
•
Other terms and conditions may apply.
•
PT. Bank Danamon Indonesia Tbk. and the business establishments reserve the right to change the terms and conditions at any time without prior notice.
For more offers on dining, travel, retail in Indonesia and overseas, please visit: www.americanexpress.co.id/selects. Don’t forget American Express SelectsSM travels with you.
For further information on American Express® in Bali, contact: PT Bank Danamon Indonesia, Tbk. Merchant Services Jl. Legian No. 87, Kuta, Bali T: +62 361 757 510 F: +62 361 761 626 www.americanexpress.co.id
RAMA CANDIDASA
ESCAPE EAST
www.ramacandidasahotel.com RAMA CANDIDASA RESORT & SPA This charming boutique hotel with its private beach terrace, surrounded by tropical gardens and rich flora, is located in the picturesque village of Candidasa on Bali’s east coast. Here is a tranquil getaway from the fast pace of the Kuta scene: lovers of nature will take pleasure in the green surroundings and the relaxed atmosphere of East Bali village life. Our guests enjoy a superb view from sun loungers by the pool and swing beds on the sun terrace, over blooming gardens and across to the offshore island of Gili Mimpang, one of the famous spots for diving in this area. The nearby Bali Aga traditional
village of Tenganan is famous for their double ikat woven fabric, gringsing, with its alleged magical potency. Other places of interest like Tirtagangga or the water palace Taman Ujung are situated nearby. Also close by is a beautiful white sand beach known as Virgin Beach, famous now as the setting for a scene from the Julia Roberts movie ‘Eat Pray Love’. Discover a multitude of activities: snorkeling, fishing, boating on traditional jukungs or mountain hiking with experienced guides. It’s all waiting for you here in East Bali. *See the Cardmember Deal on p.124
BALI SAVVY
INDEX
A Alila 16–19, 59, 117, 118, 124, 125 Aman 24–25, 68, 87, 94, 100 Aromas Café 52 Ary’s Warung 84 B Bali Beach Golf Course 77 Bali Buddha 82 Bali Collection 71 Bali Eco Village 105 Bali Golf & Country Club 69 Bali Kite Surfing School 76 Bali Niksoma 57 Bamboo Blonde 38 Batujimbar 28–29 Batujimbar, Café 74 Biasa 38 Biasa Artspace 98, 101 Biku 41, 95, 100 Blue Oasis Beach Club 76 Body and Soul 38 Bulgari Resort 62, 116 Bumbu Bali 69, 105, 106 C Café Bali 95, 100 Cardmember Deals 108 128 | BaliSavvy
Chandi 94, 100 Coffee and Silver 83 Como Shambhala 87, 94, 100 Crystal Divers 76 D Dandelion 38 Deja’Vu 55 Deli Cat 84 Discovery Shopping Mall 54 Double Six 55 E edge, The 60–61 Espace 98, 101 F Four Seasons 65, 87, 116 G Ganesha Gallery 98, 101 Gaya Fusion 98, 101 Glow 82 Goa Gajah 85 Green School 86 Griya Santrian 78, 98, 101 H Hard Rock Hotel 54 Haveli 38 Hishem 38 Hu’u 42 Hyatt, The Bali 78
I ICON Asian Arts 90, 99, 100 IDEP 96, 101 Indus 83 InterContinental 109, 116 Isola 74 Istana, The 62 J Jenggala 28, 65 Jimbaran 63 John Hardy 30 K Kabar Media 10 Kafe Batan Waru 53 Kayana, The 7 Kayumanis 5, 9, 71, 116 Kayuputi 104, 106 Kendra Gallery 98, 101 Komaneka 98, 101 KU DE TA 20–23, 42 Kunja, The 2, 46–47 Kuta 50 L Lanai 55 La Pau 74 Legian 55, 100 Legian, The 94 Living Room, The 42, 96, 101 Lucciola, La 40, 94, 100
BALI SAVVY
INDEX
M Macan Tidur 90, 92, 99, 100 Made’s Warung 52 Ma Joly 52 Mama’s 52 Mario Silver 38 Martini Bar 69 Maya Ubud 87 Mercure Kuta 54 Metis 40, 102, 104, 106 Mezzanine 74 Milo’s 31, 38 Ming, Le Resto 74 Mozaic 94, 100, 104, 106 N Nagicia 39 Nammos Beach Club 62 Napi Orti 84 Naughty Nuri’s 84 Nikko Resort 67, 68, 134 Nusa Dua 66 O Oberoi Seminyak, The 26, 104 O-CE-N Bali 57 Ibu Oka Warung 83, 103 P Padma Resort Bali 57, 130 | BaliSavvy
115 Pandawas Villas 5, 118 Pavilions, The 78 Pignou di Penyu 83 Pro Surf School Bali 53 Pura Petitenget 43 Puri Ganesha 94, 100 R Rama Candidasa 5, 124, 127 Red Carpet Champagne Bar 42 Ropp, Paul 32, 38, 65 Rosso Vivo 51 Ryoshi 43 S Sabbatha 38 Sal, La 40 Samaya, The 7, 37, 44 Sanur 72 Sardine 41, 100 Sarong 41 Seminyak 36 Sentosa Villas & Resort 43 Serene Living 71 SILQ Private Residences 44 SimpleKonsepStore 38 SIP 40 Sumatran Orangutan Society 96, 101 Sunrise 96, 101
T Tandjung Sari 29, 78 Taverna, La 75 Terazo 82 Thermes Marins Bali 65 Three Monkeys 83 Ticket To The Moon 54 Tirrta Empul 86 TJ’s Mexican Bar & Restaurant 52 Tony Raka 98, 101 Treasures 39 Tugu Bali, Hotel 5, 96, 123 U Ubud 80 Ulam Restaurant 69 Uluwatu 58 V Villa De Daun 57 W Warisan 38 Waterbom Park 53 Westin, The 68 Word of Mouth 96, 101 Z Zanzibar 55 Ziva Villa 33, 44–45
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CHECKING OUT: SPA TIME
Don’t leave Bali without experiencing one of the island’s superlative spas. Here are some suggestions: Mandara Spa Nikko Bali Resort & Spa JI. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Nusa Dua T. +62 361 773377 ext. 5 Padma Spa by Mandara Padma Resort Bali at Legian Jl. Padma No. 1, Legian T. +62 361 752111 kirana spa Desa Kedewatan Ubud T. +62 361 976333 KARMA KANDARA SPA Jl. Villa Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan T. +62 361 708800
image courtesy of Four Seasons Resorts Bali
FOUR SEASONS The Spa Villas Four Seasons Bali at Sayan Sayan, Ubud, Gianyar T. +62 361 977 577 Thermes Marins Bali Spa Ayana Resort and Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran T. +62 361 702 222
Exclusive living for discerning guests
Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts offers a comprehensive range of exclusive facilities to suit the most discerning of guests. Business and leisure travelers seeking the many up-market comforts of a top-quality hotel will find all these and more at Santika Hotels & Resorts, where world-class standards of service are seamlessly combined with a uniquely Indonesian touch. Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts caters to guests who seek the finer things in life, and a host of other comforts designed to make every stay a truly memorable experience. Hotel Santika Premiere Bali | Jakarta | Jogja | Malang | Manado | Semarang Hotel Santika Balikpapan | Bandung | Bangka | Bogor | BSD City â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Serpong | Cirebon | Makassar | Pontianak | Semarang | Surabaya Amaris Hotel Ambon | Banjar - Kal-Sel | Bandara Soekarno-Hatta | Panglima Polim - Jakarta | Panakkukang - Makassar | Palangkaraya Cimanuk-Bandung | Diponegoro-Jogja | Cihampelas - Bandung
SANTIKA RESERVATION CENTRE Ph : (62-21) 270 0027 Fax : (62-21) 270 0350 E-mail : reservation@santika.com website: www.santika.com | www.amarishotel.com
R E F I NE D
SE R VICE
W IT H
BALIN ESE
WARMT H
experience balinese warmth and personal hospitality at nikko bali resort and spa sitting atop a 40-meter cliff in nusa dua, offering a stunning 180-degree view of the indian ocean, the 5-star resort hotel presents 389 well-appointed rooms in a timeless design with a range of modern comforts for a serene getaway. well-equipped event venues like the pillar-less ballroom, outdoor settings and wiwaha wedding venue are suitable for meetings, conferences, banquets and a range of events.
www.nikkobali.com
E X P E R I E N C E T H E N E W H A R M O N Y AT T H E N E W N I K K O B A L I R E S O R T A N D S PA , F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S P L E A S E C O N TA C T nikko bali resort and spa | Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan | PO Box 18 Nusa Dua 80363, Bali - Indonesia | T +62 361 773377 | F +62 361 773388 | E sales@nikkobali.com j a k ar ta sa les office | Pru den tial Tow e r 19th Floor | Jl. Jend r al Sud i rm an Kav. 7 9 , Jaka r t a 1 2 9 1 0 | T +6 2 2 1 5 7 9 5 7 7 7 1 - 3 | F +62 21 57957770 | E jo@nikkobali.com
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