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Workshop
Step by step Unusual preshading
Karoly Bera
4 24 Editor-in-chief: Damian Majsak Assistant editor: Stanisław Powała-Niedźwiecki e-mail: redakcja@kagero.pl phone +4881 501-21-05 DTP: KAGERO Studio Proofing: Karolina Kaźmierska Editorial board reserves the right to shorten texts and changing of titles and also is not responsible for author’s opinions contained in texts. Non ordered materials will not be returned. Publisher:
Aviation
56
KAGERO Publishing Akacjowa 100, Turka, os. Borek, 20-258 Lublin 62, Poland www.kagero.pl, kagero@kagero.pl
16
THE PAINTING PROCESS STEP BY STEP
22
Karoly Bera
Vehicles Publisher of Super Model International Kagero’s modelling series warns all sellers that selling actual and archive issues of magazine with sales price different than one from cover is illegal and will result in criminal liability.
s h o p. k a g e ro. p l • w w w. k a g e ro. e u • w w w. f a ce b o o k . co m / K a g e ro. S M
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Desert Typhoon Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib
Karoly Bera
Marketing: Joanna Majsak marketing@kagero.pl Sales: e-mail: oferta@kagero.pl, phone/fax +4881 501-21-05
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3
T-34/122
33
“Warsaw” T-26A
48
Adam N. P. Wilder Witold Socha
W ORKSHOP techniques | tools | workshop
Step by step Unusual preshading Karoly Bera, Hungary
B-24D Revell-Monogram 1/48 kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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W ORKSHOP
Photo: common use.
Four engine bombers are huge in 1/48 scale. The wingspan of this aircraft is 69 cm. If we want to build this giant we will find only old kits on the market. It is not bad but we will find the lack of details, fitting problems and positive panel lines. But I think it’s not a problem, it’s modelling.
My basic idea I didn’t want a big building project, so I decided to build straight from the box, but I wanted something special from painting. I wanted to make a pacific version, I founded decals on the market. I watched many photos and I noticed these bombers had really worn surface, especially on the top of the wings. I knew at first sight that simulating these patterns with normal airbrush work won’t be enough. So I tried to find another simple way.
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The build The building process was not so complicated because I worked staight from the box. Of course I had to repair the fitting problems with sanding, plastic and putty.
5
W ORKSHOP
I added some wire works to the engines.
I left the positive panel lines, because with a little trick we can change them accaptable on this airplane.
Some plastic and wire to the wheelbay.
I painted the interior parts and I glued the main parts
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W ORKSHOP
The painting and weathering process These patches have random forms with sharp and soft edges. I worked with airbrush a lot, so I know the characteristic of this tool well. If you work just with airbrush by freehand your patterns always will have soft edges. You have to use different masks (fluid, salt…we will talk about these later in an other article) or have to use other tools too. I decided to try to create these patters with a special modified preshading technique. The normal preshading is a well known technique for the modellers (before the camo painting we paint a dark color around the panel lines), but I used not just airbrush, but brush, sponge and sandpaper too. STEP 2
STEP 1
I masked the clear parts and sprayed the entire surface with Tamiya light grey primer. I mixed the dark version of the camo color from Vallejo acrylic paint.
STEP 3
I painted the surface with a brush and sponge. STEP 4
STEP 5
I painted the panel lines with more dark color using the airbrush. STEP 6
I sanded the entire surface gently with a worn sandpaper. This is the way how we can create random patterns with soft and hard edges. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
I painted the camo color (but carefully) and I let the preshading to appear.
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I sanded the entire surface gently with a soft, worn sandpaper. This is a little trick. If we are careful enough, we can remove the camo color just from the positive panel lines… so the panel lines will be dark.
W ORKSHOP
STEP 7
After the camo I painted the entire surface with diluted brown enamel wash with a flat brush, and after drying I washed it back with White Spirit.
STEP 8
I added some chipping to the surface with Mr Hobby Color Aluminium using small brush and sponge… and covered the surface with a gloss varnish. STEP 9
STEP 11
I applied the decals. STEP 10
I filtered the decals with enamel wash. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
After matt varnish I painted some oil flows around the engine with enamel paint.
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W ORKSHOP
STEP 12
I painted the exhaust and exhaust stains.
I painted all small parts. Final assembly After painting I glued the parts with CA glue, and made the antenna wires… It means the Liberator is completed. I hope you can find some interesting and inspirating informations for you.
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STEP 13
W ORKSHOP
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W ORKSHOP
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The best books for modelers by Kagero Publishing
Top Drawings no. 70 – The Soviet Light Bomber Petlyakov Pe-2 Language: English & Polish Pages: 20 Cover: soft Format: A4
Top Drawings no. 71 – Macchi MC.202 Language: English & Polish Pages: 28 Cover: soft Format: A4
Top Drawings no. 72 – Republic P-47 Thunderbolt XP-47B, B, C, D, G Language: English & Polish Pages: 28 Cover: soft Format: A4
Top Drawings no. 73 – Chance Vought F4U Corsair A,C,D,P, Mk I, Mk II, Mk III, Mk IV Language: English & Polish Pages: 20 Cover: soft Format: A4
Monographs 65 – Gloster Gladiator Mk I and II (And Sea Gladiator) Language: English Pages: 216 Cover: soft Format: A4
Monographs 66 – PZL P.24 A-G Language: English Pages: 172 Cover: soft Format: A4
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The best books for modelers by Kagero Publishing
Super Drawings in 3D 70 – The Battleship HMS Rodney Language: English Pages: 88 Cover: soft Format: A4
Top Drawings no. 74 – The Russian ASW Guided Missile Cruiser Petropavlovsk Language: English & Polish Pages: 16 Cover: soft Format: A4
Top Drawings no. 75 – Panzerkampfwagen VI Tiger Language: English & Polish Pages: 20 Cover: soft Format: A4
Top Drawings no. 76 – Messerschmitt Bf 109 F Language: English & Polish Pages: 28 Cover: soft Format: A4
Monographs 67 – Hispano Aviación HA-1112 Language: English Pages: 80 Cover: soft Format: A4
Super Drawings in 3D 71 – The Japanese Battleship Hyuga Language: English Pages: 80 Cover: soft Format: A4
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Super Drawings in 3D 72 – The Brandenburg - class Battleships 1890-1918 Language: English Pages: 80 Cover: soft Format: A4
Super Drawings in 3D 73 – Imperial Japanese Navy Type B1 Submarine… Language: English Pages: 64 Cover: soft Format: A4
Super Drawings in 3D 74 – The Japanese Battleship Kirishima 1940 Language: English Pages: 84 Cover: soft Format: A4
Top Drawings no. 79 – Medium Tank M3 Lee I Language: English & Polish Pages: 20 Cover: soft Format: A4
Famous Planes no. 11 – R.E.P. type F in Royal Serbian Air Force Language: English Pages: 72 Cover: soft Format: A4
Famous Planes no. 12 – Nieuport 1-27 French Fighters Family Language: English Pages: 88 Cover: soft Format: A4
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The best books for modelers by Kagero Publishing
Kit Build no. 1 – F-14 Tomcat Language: English & Polish Pages: 64 Cover: soft Decals: 1/72, 1/48 scale Format: A4
Monograph Special Edition in 3d no. 13 – Ikarus IK-2 Language: English Pages: 196 Cover: harcover Format: A4
Monograph Special Edition in 3d no. 12 – Fw 190 Language: English Pages: 272 Cover: harcover Format: A4
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Av i at i o n
Desert Typhoon
W
Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib Karoly Bera, Hungary
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hen I decided I want to build a Hawker Typhoon in 1/32 scale, I knew it wont be a simple challenge. I had two choice: first – the ancient Revell kit, second – the MDC’s resin. I chose both of them. I built this two kit together. It was a long process because these are two problematic kits, but I could use the MDC as a guide when I scratched many parts of the Revell. In this article I’ll show just the building and painting process of the Revell’s car door Typhoon kit. I didn’t want two Typhoon with similar gray – green camo, so I chose a desert camo for the Revell. I found Techmod decals on the market.
Av i at i o n
ABOUT THE KIT May be this kit older than me, so we can find many challenge in the building process. But it is not problem, it is modelling. Positive panel lines, inaccurate fitting and the lack of details.
THE BUILDING PROCESS REWORK THE ENTIRE SURFACE If we want realistic result with these old kits, we have no choice, we have to rework the entire surface. First I sanded down every panel lines and rivets and corrected the moulding faults on every parts. I checked the result with gray Tamiya primer. I drew the panel lines with a pencil onto the surface followed a right scale printed drawing. After I rescribed the panel lines with a saw. To drive the saw I used masking tape. After the prosess I corrected the mistakes‌
After the panel lines a delt with the rivets used different tools kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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It was a long and boring process, but the result worth the effort.
Av i at i o n
Scratched Cockpit The original cockpit of the kit is really simple so I wanted to create a new one. IÂ built it from styrene and wire and I used some parts from the kit. I followed the MDC parts and photos. After painting I was delighted with the result.
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Av i at i o n
The engine The original engine had some problems, but it wasn’t bad for basic. I wanted to show the engine of this aircraft, so I made some extra details from plastic and wire. I checked with primer and I painted this.
The wheelbay The wheelbay of the kit is not so good: the shape is inaccurate and there is no details. I corrected the shape and built some details from styrene. I built the mechanical parts and the wheel covers too. I checked the result with primer, but I painted it later.
Other scratched parts I made some scratchwork on the wheels and bombs and I created the lamps from transparent plastic. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Av i at i o n
Glued main parts When I finished the scratch works I fitted and glued the cockpit and the engine into the fuselage and glued the wings. I checked and corrected the fitting and painted the entire surface with a sand yellow paint.
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Av i at i o n
The canopy When I checked the fitting of the canopy, I found this fitting problem. I cut it to three parts, fixed in the correct position and filled the gap with styrene. I riveted the frames. After polishing the result was acceptable. Finally I covered it with Tamiya masking tape, corrected the fitting with putty and painted the frames with black
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Av i at i o n techniques | tools | workshop
THE PAINTING PROCESS
STEP BY STEP
I like the desert camos and I think it have to be always a little worn, because the sun, wind and sand together are a really strong effect. When I finished the building process I decided after this hard building work I have to create a really realistic painting. I used many techniques to reach the final result. Now let’s see step by step.
Step 1 Modified preshading I used the sand yellow ont he top and a light gray layer ont he bottom as a background for the preshading. The preshading process was similar as I showed it last time on the B-24D. I used brush, sponge, airbrush and worn sandpaper to create some random dark textures.
Step 2 Metal areas I painted an Alclad White Aluminium layer to the wing roots and leading edges, and put some random dots on it with masking fluid with sponge and a small brush. After removing these will be the metal chipping. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Av i at i o n
Step 4 Light textures with acrylic
Step 3 Basic camo colors I painted the camo colors. I cut the patterns from paper and I fixed the paper to the surface with little Blutack balls. This way I reached almost hard edges.
…and created random patterns this way: I painted random forms with a small brush;
I needed more textures, but lighter than the camo colors (dark textures I created with the modified preshading). To create light textures I used Vallejo acrylics. I mixed lighter colors than the camo colors…
– before drying I touched the paint with sponge;
– blended the patterns with some airbrush work;
– sanded the entire surface with a worn Micromesh sandpaper. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Av i at i o n
Step 5 Painting other colors After texturing the camo color I painted the markings and the black line sin the wingroots.
Step 6 Removing the fluid mask I removed the fluid mask with a little water and the metal chipping turned visible.
Step 7 Exhaust stains I painted the exhaust stains with freehand airbrush technique. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
Step 8 More textures with pastells I created more textures aroun the engine, cockpit and wheelbays with pastell pencils this way: - I drew random dots with pastell pencil - I blended it with a special sponge tool
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Av i at i o n
Step 9 Gloss varnish
I covered the entire surface with Microscale gloss varnish.
Step 10 Decals
When the varnish dried totally I put the decals and after drying I covered them with a layer of gloss varnish.
Step 11 Painting and filter with enamel wash I painted the panel lines with a black - brown enamel wash • I textured the paint with a sponge and White Spirit • Finally I removed the excess paint with White Spirit kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Av i at i o n
Step 12 Matt varnish
Step 13 More chipping work
Step 14 Fading the chipping
I covered the entire surface with Microscale matt varnish.
I wanted more worn appiarence so I painted more chipping around the canopy and engine with a small brush. I used a light version of the camo color Vallejo acrylic paints.
I faded the chipping works with airbrush with diluted camo color.
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Av i at i o n
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Av i at i o n
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Av i at i o n
Step 15 Painting the small parts When I painted the small parts I used different techniques (sponge, pastells, pigments) to texturize them.
It was a complicated painting process but I wanted a realistic surface. I did these steps on the MDC Typhoon too. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Av i at i o n
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Av i at i o n
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BUY TOPCOLORS ON SHOP.KAGERO.PL
VEHICLES
T-34/122 I
Adam N. P. Wilder, USA
have always enjoyed re-
built for this rare T-34 variant in
searching and modeling
order to release a resin conver-
German Paper Panzers. I
sion with my company Wilder. In
enjoy Soviet Paper Panzers as well
this article we will begin by briefly
but there are fewer kits and con-
looking at a few photos of the as-
versions available for these rare
sembled model and then move
subjects. One day while flipping
on in more detail as to how it was
through a Russian book about the
painted.
T-34, I found some line drawings of a few proposals to mount the
Constructing
122mm howitzer inside a travers-
this Replica
ing turret. The drawings were sup-
I constructed the hull of this
posedly made in early 1943. One
T-34/122 to represent one manu-
of the proposals looked much
factured in Factory number 183
like a traditional T-34/76 hexago-
during the summer/fall of 1942. I
nal turret. The other immediately
have always liked the rather plane
caught my attention looking
look of the T-34s produced there
more like a KV-II turret. I imme-
during that time without any ex-
diately decided to have a master
ternal fuel tanks, grab handles for
kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
the tank riders and other various external details. The model kit I used was a DML T-34/76 Model 1942 with the soft edge Hexagonal turret but any T-34 manufactured during or after 1942 will suffice. As I mentioned the resin T-34/122 turret is available from my company Wilder. The Degtyaryov DT-29 7,62mm metal hull MG is also from Wilder. Three Aber sets were used. Some of the smaller resin details such as the hull MG and exhausts were taken from a T-34 upgrade set offered by the Russian company Complect ZiP. A set of Friulmodel T-34/76 metal links was also added. The reference numbers for each of these aftermarket kits are listed at the end of this article. Let’s now look at how I painted and weathered this T-34/122 replica.
After priming the photo etched parts I airbrushed the model with a light green tone mixed from Tamiya paints thinned with lacquer thinner. This lighter green will be darkened as I work through the different finishing steps. The grey camouflage was also mixed using Tamiya paints. A large red air-identification spot was airbrushed on top of the turret to give a little more color to the subject. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
After finishing the camouflage, a filter was brushed on to subtly blend it with the basecoat. I have seen a few photos of AFVs with winter camouflages only applied to the turrets. Whatever the reason I felt applying a winter camouflage in this manner would break up the model nicely giving it a unique look. The winter camouflage was painted using the hairspray method. A modified stiff-bristled brush was used to remove the acrylic coat of white.
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VEHICLES
I chose not to seal the first layer of white with a few coats of satin varnish like I usually do. Instead I applied another layer of hairspray and white acrylic paint right over the first. I also added some streaks and splashes with a brush representing where the winter camouflage ran down and off the sides of the turret.
I chipped the second layer of the white camouflage along with the runs then sealed everything with a few coats of satin varnish. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
After letting the coat of satin varnish set for a bit I applied a diluted general wash over the entire model.
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VEHICLES
More localized pin washes were applied right from the bottle to highlight seams and details. A fine brush and thinner were used to remove any unwanted areas of excess wash.
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VEHICLES
I decided at this point to apply some random areas of dark brown oils to add some subtle tones to the finish. I painted some more fine runs of white acrylics thinned with water over the winter camouflage.
I simulated chips and other flaws in the paint with acrylics thinned with tap water. Washes of rust were added over the larger paint chips.
More random fine runs were added to the sides of the hull using the NL-02 Deep Shadow Wash. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
The last effect prior to adding the earth tones was to add some very faint rust speckling. It is very important that you first wipe away the excess paint from your brush on a clean napkin in order not to overdue this effect. After speckling use a fine brush dampened with thinner to remove any access specks that may be too large, overdone or have been distributed in a manner in which you are not content with. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
I started the application of the earth tones by applying some rain marks like I normally write about using thinned acrylic paints. Next I painted some heavier more refined earth tones by brushing on some large streaks and areas of mud using a dry clay tone. Enamel thinner was used to thin and spread out the effect working it into the corners giving the runs and clay tones on the fenders more of a natural looking appearance.
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VEHICLES
Here is another example of how to use the Dry Clay Tone NL-22 to create contrast in the corners of the front fenders. Using earth tones in this manner is great for emphasizing the different parts and angles on a subject.
Moving on to the running gear I gave the tracks a rusty brown finish using a product called Quick Rust. This oxidized drown finish works nicely as a base coat for the rest of the weathering effects. Quick Rust works fast so you will only need to dip the tracks into the solution for about 15 seconds. After removing the tracks you can add more of the Quick Rust using an old paint brush in the areas where air bubbles might have been stuck.
I put thick dry earth tones on to the tracks and running gear using a mix of Tamiya XF-XX pigments and plaster. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
I applied the damp earth effects using dark earth toned enamels mixed with a gloss varnish to the running gear and randomly over different parts of the hull to give different textures to the weathering. I gave the damp earth mix four to five minutes to dry then subtly blended it using enamel thinner.
I added some of the damp earth to the rear of the hull using speckling. I used a piece of paper helped me to keep this effect localized to around the running gear where it would be present.
With the ear tones finished I sanded the outer edges of the track exposing the metal alloy representing the polished areas of the tracks. Graphite blended with a rubber tipped artist sharpener represented the polished areas on the inner sides of the track. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
After weathering a few more effects were needed to finish the T-34. I placed patches of snow over the running gear and into the corners of the hull where it might collect. You can apply some gloss randomly to the snow if you want to display some areas that might be melting from mild weather.
This T-34/122 was a nice project to add to my collection of Soviet armor. The photo etched pieces took a bit of time to assemble but the bends and other damage that I added to these parts really work well with the weathering making a used looking vehicle. The weathering was relatively straight forward employing commonly used techniques.
Semi-gloss diesel stains are always nice effects to apply. Some black pigments finished the exhaust effects completing the model.
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The Figure I would like to thank Ivan Cocker for the wonderful figure. This detail really helps to give both life and history to the T-34. It was a total conversion using a Miniart tank crew torso. A head from Alpine Miniatures was used. The sheepskin coat was detailed. A new collar and better fleece texture was also added. The arms were scratch built. Everything was sculpted using Magic Sculpt putty. The newspaper is based on an original soviet one reduced to scale using Photoshop and digitally printed. All of the painting was done using acrylics.
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VEHICLES
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VEHICLES
Kits and After Market Items Used: •• Plastic Model: Dragon Models T-34/76 Mod. 1942 Hexagonal Turret Soft Edge Type Kit no. 6424 •• Resin Turret: T-34/122 Conversion Kit no. HDF-RC-01 •• Photo Etched Brass: Aber sets no. 35 A45, 35 045, G07 •• Tacks: Friul Model Kit no. ATL-124
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•• Hull MG: Wilder Degtyaryov DT-29 7,62 mm Tank MG Kit no. HDF-MB-02 •• Towing Cables: Eureka XXL Soviet Towing Cables Heavy Type I Kit no. ER-3541 •• Other resin accessories: Complect ZiP Kit no. 35018
DECALS /48, 1/72 1 , 5 3 / 1 : s le a in sc
In the next article “Warsaw” T-26A was used a decal from this book
VEHICLES
f Decals
rom
Witold Socha, Poland
T
he T-26 light tank was the basic RKKA vehicle of the beginning of the war. In the years 1931–1940 12,000 copies were
produced in several versions. During Operation Barbarossa, the German army captured a large number of these tanks. The Germans, with their typical accuracy, gave them new registration numbers: Pz.Kpfw. 737 (r) T-26A, T-26B or T-26C (respectively: two-turret tanks, with cylindrical turret, with conical turret). Due to their outdated construction, as well as the weakness of weapons, T-26s were quickly moved to rear units, such as police forces or formations fighting against partisans. In this role, these vehicles survived until the end of the war. Thanks to the kindness of the Kagero Publishing, I’ve received the latest book from the Top Colors
“Warsaw” T-26A kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
48
series entitled “Beutepanzer”, which includes decals and colour profiles with an early, two-turret T-26 tank mod. 1931 guarding the Saxon Palace in Warsaw! This vehicle stood in one place throughout the Warsaw Uprising, and after its collapse and blowing up the palace vehicle was abandoned there.
VEHICLES
I had a lot of trouble on how to make a model of tank, which was probably stripped of all equipment and did not have excessive traces of use and mud on the chassis. The vehicle itself on concrete slabs? Boredom! Why not add a corner to the blown up Saxon Palace? Yes!
Assembly The model from the Hobby Boss stable is easy to build and looks great even after building it out of the box. One of the few corrections I did was to drill the mounts of the suspension carriages. The manufacturer developed them as solid, and in fact they were hollow tubes. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
As I mentioned, the vehicle was not equipped. So, with HIPS, I’ve made the attachment for a jack, cut off and drilled the original mounts for shovels, etc., and bent the right fender more strongly, on which debris fell from a collapsed building.
Painting and weathering I’ve started the painting process with the German Panzer Gray foundation from Vallejo. It can be poured into the airbrush directly from the bottle. I chose the “Black & White” painting method, based
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VEHICLES
on contrasting shading before putting the proper colour. The vehicle was painted with RAL 7028 sand paint. I’ve chosen its equivalent from the AK Real Colors palette. The paint is slightly transparent, thanks to which the shading from the previous step is visible. I lightened it slightly, adding a few drops of white to the base colour. Then, I’ve sprayed the model with X-22 clear varnish. This gave a filter effect that matched all previously done discolorations. I’ve started weathering with a classic “dot filter” with oil paints. I’ve used oilbrushers from Ammo Mig’s offer in three colours, which I’ve mixed with a flat brush moistened in turpentine. I’ve painted the rest of the camouflage with Gunze and AK paints diluted with Hataka solvent. This type of camouflage is best painted on a low air pressure and the thinnest airbrush nozzle. Due to the fact that before applying the wavy lines, I’ve covered the model with a glossy transparent varnish, I could easily imitate the damage on the paint coating. I’ve used a wire brush, toothpick and sharp tweezers to do that. With Vallejo paints, I’ve coloured all the details of the vehicle, such as wheels, tracks, etc.
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VEHICLES
I’ve applied oil specifics in rust and sand colours, and then patted some dry pigments into them, which emThe time has come for the markings. The Top Colors
To make an imitation of rust on the muffler, I’ve used
phasized the oxidized texture of the metal. Finally, I’ve
decals are of great quality. They react easily with sof-
a reliable Lifecolor’s Dust & Rust set. After drying,
wiped the edges with AK-Interactive True Metal paint.
teners and fit very well. After applying the markings,
fresh rust was emphasized with Ammo Mig’s wash.
I’ve painted some small scratches with a thin brush
With Starship Filth Oilbrusher, I’ve emphasized the
Base
and sponge fixed in the self-locking tweezers. The
shadows in all the nooks of the miniature.
Now, time for building the scene. First, I’ve focused
next step was to apply a van Dyke’s brown wash. It
The tank stood in one place for a long time, so its tracks
on the destroyed corner of the Saxon Palace. I’ve
nicely highlighted all the details, especially the rivets.
had to have some rust. Using the “wet in wet” method,
made it from cork, but architectural details and win-
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VEHICLES
ingredients and poured them on the surface of the vignette. Next, I’ve sealed everything with diluted wood glue. Then, I’ve put the scene away for 24 hours to dry well. The next step was to mount the tank. Most of the right side of the vehicle was covered with debris. I’ve filled the space with pebbles and pieces of plaster and dow frames were made from balsa. The rest of the vi-
For the initial painting of buildings, I always use Valle-
filled with Gravel & Sand glue. I’ve put it away again
gnette was built from polystyrene. I’ve also added a
jo paints, and next finish them with oils.
to dry. Then, I’ve sprinkled the T-26 and the building
foam polystyrene filling, which was supposed to cov-
The main point of the whole scene was debris. To
with dry pigments and added oily stains on the tank’s
er most of the scene. Cork was covered with acrylic
make it, I’ve collected various modeling sprinkles,
rear plate and chassis.
putty. To add additional texture to the walls (e.g. so
crushed plaster, tile adhesive and pebbles. I’ve also
At the end I’ve added a damaged street lamp, an old
called “lamb plaster”), I’ve used a sponge to “tap” it to
made windows, beams, boards and pieces of wall.
canister and a figurine of a random passerby. The
a still wet surface.
After installing the windows, I’ve mixed all the listed
next scene was ready!
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VEHICLES
Kits and After Market Items Used: Used sets: • Hobby Boss Soviet T-26 Infantry Tank Mod.1931 cat. no. 82494, • Master Box Civilians WW II era cat. no. 3567, • Bronco German WWII 20 L Jerrycans cat. no. 3576. Used paints and other chemicals: • Vallejo’s products: primer German Panzer Grey 74603, thinner Airbrush Thinner 71261, Dark Grey 70994, Track Primer 304, Neutral Grey 70992, German Camo Black Brown 70822, Stone Grey 70884, Light Rust 301, Burnt Umber 70941, Khaki Grey 70880, Light Grey 70990, Deck Tan 70986 • Ammo Mig’s products: Grey High Light A.MIG-910, White A.MIG-047, oil-
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54
brusher Buff A.MIG-3517, White A.MIG-3501, Ammo Yellow A.MIG-3502, Light Rust Wash A.MIG-1004, Brick Dust P029, Light Dust A.MIG-3002, Fresh Engine Oil A.MIG-1408, • AK-Interactive’s Real Color paints: White Grey RC003, Dunkelgelb RC060, Red Brown RC068, • Tamiya’s paints: Clear Yellow X-24, Clear X-22, • Mr.Color’s paint: Green FS34102 H303, • Hataka’s XP03 thinner, • Microscale’s decal liquids: Set i Sol, • AK-Interactive Gravel and Sand Fixer.
VEHICLES
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55
VEHICLES
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56
rom f s l a c De
VEHICLES
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57
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