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4 23 Editor-in-chief: Damian Majsak Assistant editor: Stanisław Powała-Niedźwiecki e-mail: redakcja@kagero.pl phone +4881 501-21-05 DTP: KAGERO Studio Proofing: Karolina Kaźmierska Editorial board reserves the right to shorten texts and changing of titles and also is not responsible for author’s opinions contained in texts. Non ordered materials will not be returned. Publisher:
36 Aviation
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Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib
Marcin Chruścielewski ISBN: 978-83-64596-63-6
Publisher of Super Model International Kagero’s modelling series warns all sellers that selling actual and archive issues of magazine with sales price different than one from cover is illegal and will result in criminal liability.
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Kawasaki Ki-61
Zdenek Šebesta
4 23
Vehicles
Flakpanzer I
Roman Volchenkov
36
Av i at i o n
Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib Airfix 1/24
Marcin Chruścielewski, Poland
My adventure with the Airfix Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib kit began in November 2013 during Telford Model Show, where it was presented for the first time. Both, sprues and finished model, amazed me so much, that despite the big 1/24 scale, I decided to got me one!
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The cockpit frame is assembled and painted with aluminium Alclad II ACL-101. On July 2014 my dream came true. Thanks to my friend from England I’ve managed to buy this great kit for a good price and ship it to Poland. I was very
Cockpit got some more details. Canvas seatbelts are from HGW set. Oil tank is visible in front of the frame.
excited when it finally arrived but after unboxing there was a big clash with
I’ve decided to build my Typhoon with as many open panels as
reality. Sprues weren’t so good as the ones showed at Telford show. What’s
possible, to show its inner construction. Thanks to the Master
more, over 90% of canopy clear parts were cracked. It unleashed a storm on
company I’ve received perfect metal barrels for 20 mm can-
worldwide scale modelling forums. The producers had to rise to that occasion,
nons together with set of metal rockets. I also used decals for
and they surely did. After sending a complain to the Airfix, new parts were
the instrument panel printed by Airscale and HGW microfibre
shipped without any charge. But it wasn’t the end of disappointments. There
seatbelts from Czech Republic.
were seams on every part (from the forms junctions). Although it is a normal
The kit projected with CAD 3D technology is almost perfectly
thing with injection models, they were very big and visible on reviewed kit.
fitted. Sprues were made from a very good quality plastic too.
There were also some sink marks on the plate separating engine from radiator
Producer took care of such details as all different kind of wires
air intake. It was a little bit difficult to fit it in place too.
and cables or very nicely imitated worn airframe. The clear and
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Microfiber seatbelts from HGW set.
Av i at i o n
well organised instruction provides three configura-
Cockpit frame assembled with girders. On this stage I started to add some light weathering effects.
tions of finishing the model: with fully covered engine, with engine side panels taken off and third one – with fully uncovered Napier Sabre motor. Finally it was time to choose the painting scheme. I’ve decided to make “The Silver Bullet” from Fighter Leader School. The plane was coded MN666 and it wore typical RAF day camouflage untill the June of year 1944. After the invasion in Normandy machine was transferred to the 3501st Service Unit where it was overhauled. During that maintenance the camouflage was removed and “naked” plane got to the Fighter Leader School in Milfield. Only rudder stayed painted in masking colours. During the build I’ve used paints from only two producers: Alclad – for natural „camouflage” (painted over Tamiya’s gloss black) and Tamiya for other parts. In summary I must say that Airfix Hawker Typhoon Mk.Ib in 1/24 scale, despite some minor imperfections, is a very, very good kit, which can be a great base for a very ambitious build. Fully recommended! I would like to thank my friends from HGW and Master for their accessories used during the build. I also would like to thank Artur D. for his valuable consultations. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Engine assembly. Aluminium wires were painted with Alclads II. Despite my worries, the fitting wasn’t bad. The engine block was painted with Tamiya’s matt black. I also brushed some aluminium pigment on it. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Time to install engine and first cables to the frame. To imitate cables “shirts” I’ve used wolfram wires tightly curled up.
Few words about armament bays. Kit’s plastic barrels were replaced with great metal substitutes from Master. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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First check of airframe fitting. I’ve cut out one panel on the wing to show fuel tank inside it.
Cockpit is getting more wires. On the right photo you can see a taken off radio compartment panel and scratch built radio itself.
The whole model was primed with Tamiya’s gloss black paint. After drying I additionally polished all surfaces and then put the Alclad II colors. To differ some panels I’ve used few shades of aluminium paints. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Aifrix’ instrument panel decals were replaced with Airscale set.
The peek inside the wheel bay. On the right photo you can see “raw” metal rockets from Master. There is a possibility to buy a set with different replaceable heads. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Finishing stage. After painting the model with aluminium, I’ve made insignias and code letters using the templates. On the first photo you can see turned, removable gun covers. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Straight onto the paint coat I’ve added some dark wash to emphasize panel lines and other details. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Armament bay ready.
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Engine compartment ready and weathered.
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Some more wires in cockpit and radio compartment. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Weathered undercarriage and some rocket engines exhaust streaks. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Typhoon in full grace!
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Av i at i o n
Kawasaki MDC 1/32
Ki-61
Zdenek Šebesta, Czech Republic
Is resin kit better than injected one? It should be the opposite, especially when manufacturer is such prestigious company as Hasegawa. The resin 1/32 Kawasaki Ki-61 was introduced on market half year before Hasegawa injection kit. I was working on MDC kit when Hasegawa kit was issued. I had a chance to compare both sets. The dimension and surface details were very similar. The surfaces were covered with fine recessed panel lines.
The wings of MDC kit was cast from resin in one piece, without scratches and resin blocks on the edges wings. It is not necessary to remove filling. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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The wings have nice depth wheel bays and separate control surfaces.
The wheel legs were made from resin and white metal. I’ve chosen metal ones. The fuselage was made from two halves similar as injected kit.
The kit includes two pieces of this canopy. If you break one, you have a second chance.
It consists nice resin detailed cockpit. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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All parts fitted perfectly without many filling. Since I can’t make anything simply, I’ve decided to open the engine, fuselage and wing guns and flaps.
The photo etched flaps were from Eduard set dedicated for Hasegawa kit. Those flaps fitted to wings correctly which proves that both kits have very similar dimensions.
I started work on wings. The solid – one piece – wing was disadvantage. I had to shape new gun bays. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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I made the sidewalls of the bays from thin plastic sheets. The German MG-151 guns was used in wings of Ki-61-I version Hei. I used those guns from Aires MG-151 set. Those wheel bays are correctly deep and accurate. I added two lines from wire only. I used metal wheel legs from the box because resin kit is heavier then plastic one.
All interior parts of Hien were sprayed with Yellow Khaki color and shaded with similar German RLM 79 from GSI (toned by drop of white and green color). kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Seatbelts are from Eduards’ p.e. IJA seatbelts prepainted set.
It’s not necessary to comment the quality of cockpit. It is very detailed and by quality is the same as Aires accessories. The instrument panel is made from three separate parts and moulded in resin. It is very plastic in this scale. I apliyed separate instrument decals to oversprayed panel by black color. It is amazing that numbers and details of instrument are readable.
I decided to open upper engine cover and covers of fuselage guns. I cutted it from fuselage halves and thinned front walls. I made new engine wall with integrated engine mounts and basis for guns from profiles and sheets. Hien’s engine (Ho-40) was a licensed version of German DB-601. I used basis of DB-605 engine from Aires. I made new details from plastic and wires. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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I modified 12,7 Browning guns from Aires for fuselage guns.
Av i at i o n
I glued main components – wings, fuselage and tail with horizontal stabilizers without problems and only small amounts of filler. It is very unusual on resin kits. I masked all details and provide overall finish.
I camouflaged the kit as real aircraft: Base coat of Mr.Surfacer 1000.
Painting
I’ve chosen famous aircraft number 295 of pilot Teruhiko Kobayashi from 244. Sentai. It was flown in January 1945 from Chofu airfield. I collected aprox. Ten photos of this aircraft in different camouflage. In first this aircraft is seen in overall metal finish with thin blue band on fuselage only. In second phase there are added green mottles on upper surface. It was sprayed partialy on blue band too. In third phase they added wider white band on fuselage and victory symbols. Remember: the aircraft had fuselage guns in early camouflage time with five aircraft victories. In later time they were removed and holes were covered using pieces of leather. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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Overall metal finish. I used GSI Mr.Color 08 silver color. I sprayed Hinomaru and red tail using red brown colors. I used masks for airbrush.
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Next coat was a gloss varnish. After that I’ve applied thin blue band decals and all stencils. I used Mr.Setter and Softer solvent. These decals were printed by Fantasy print shop in excellent quality. I painted green shade mottles on the upper surfaces and randomly sprayed them around the blue band too. Next gloss coat varnish and applyed white band a victories symbols decals. Bibliography
Army Type 3 Fighter „Hien”, Famous Aircraft of the World no. 17, Bunrindo 1989. Takashi Sakurai, Hien Fighter Group. Pictorial History of the 244th Sentai, Tokyo’s Defenders, Dai Nippon Kaiga 2004. I.J. Army Kawasaki type 3 & 5 Fighter, Model Art l995, nr 428. Robert C. Mikesh, Japanese Aircraft Interiors 1940–1945, Monogram Publishing, 2000. Kawasaki Tyoe 3 „Hien” & Type 5 Army Fighter (Ki-61 & Ki-100), Maru Mechanic 1982, nr 11 (37). Kawasaki Ki-61, Ki-100, Modelpress nr 4. http://www5b.biglobe.ne.jp/-s244f/index.htm After final semigloss coat I put some Mig production washes – Dark Wash and Neutral Wash. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
On some places I scratched the green color to the silver base.
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I didn’t use additional fuel tanks, because I did not find them on source photos.
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Again I must say that this is a very good quality kit. The building straight from box is simplier than building from Hasegawa kit.
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BUY TOPCOLORS ON
VEHICLES
Flakpanzer I
Roman Volchenkov, Russia
F
lakpanzer I was developed on the chassis of Panzer I when Wehrmacht realized the need of mobile anti-aircraft guns during 1940. Panzer I was becoming outdated and many vehicles were converted for different needs – Bison I, Panzerjager I and Flakpanzer I are an example of such conversions. Only 24 Flakpanzer I were built and they were gathered into 1 unit - Fla.-Btl.(mot) 614 (motorized flak battalion 614) which was dislocated on the Eastern front and eliminated during the battle of Stalingrad. The construction involved rearrangement of frontal superstructure and engine compartment cover. The radio was removed and to provide more space for crew when firing anti-aircraft targets the additional foldable flaps were made on sides and rear of the superstructure. The ammunition and equipment were stored in the trailer.
In plastic Several years ago both Dragon and Tristar released a kit of Flakpanzer I. Each of them had advantages and disadvantages and any variant could end up as a nice representation of Flakpanzer I. For this model I used old Dragon’s kit and Lion Roars full PE upgrade set. This set replaces basically 1/3 of the plastic kit but unfortunately it is not problem free. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
Assembly When I was relocating to another apartment last summer some of my old models were heavily damaged. So I took some of the parts from Tristar’s school-panzer without any hesitation. These were the engine and the fuel tanks. Surprisingly, they fitted well into
Alliance Model Works is one of the few accurate metal barrels for Flak38.
the hull from Dragon, but I had to cut off air filters to fit the gun platform on top of the hull. The tracks are old single link ones and have 5 connection points to the sprues. I would prefer to replace them with newer magic tracks that have much finer detail or with Friul if you have enough budget. Another issue that came out of replacing the fenders was a gap between the engine deck and also front superstructure. In the front I trimmed the Dragon’s part to lower it a little bit and the small gaps were filled with putty afterwards. In the rear I had to put some plastic card between the hull and the engine deck to have an even line with the gun platform. The Lion Roar set includes a lot of detail that is not really seen afterwards, so I simply ignored installing some of the parts inside. The super detailing of the gun also had some problems. The shields are a bit of wrong shape in their lower part and they lack the necessary detail for the connection with the tube kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
Dry fit of the superstructure after the fenders were soldered and attached to the hull. I decided to glue the tracks to avoid problems with their alignment later.
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VEHICLES
The fuel tanks and engine were harvested from Tristar. Dragon’s interior is pretty nicely detailed so I left it as is. on the outer side. If you have a possibility to replace
tired with all that PE and decided to finish the model
them with the shield from Tristar or from Dragon’s set
without a trailer as you see that on the references too.
of Flak38 with trailer (ref 6280) – do that. Overall, I believe that it is better to solder everything instead of
Painting
using CA glue. I dropped it from my worktable several
The first idea that came into my mind was of course
times and the soldered shields were the only item that
white washed camouflage. Actually, the first ever
kept in place, while the smaller shield for gunner’s pro-
model of Flakpanzer I that I’ve seen was from Vladi-
tection and other parts like pedals were falling apart.
mir Demchenko. I assume everyone knows his bril-
The frozen German soldier was made for his diora-
The trailer that Dragon included in this old kit is wrong,
liant sculpts for his company Bravo 6, but before
ma dedicated to the Battle of Stalingrad. So, there
and Lion Roar’s and Tristar sets are correct, but I felt a bit
that he was also doing figures for MIG productions.
was a white washed Flakpanzer I on the side of the
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Gun assembly finished. Adding the spent shell case net was not a simple task.
VEHICLES
Completed build. The tool clamps from Lion Roar were replaced with Alliance MoInterior painted and engine deck attached. You can still see the engine and fuel tanks when del Works which are easier to work with. Note that I drilled out the ventilation holes on the rear of the engine deck. holding a model in your hands. road, and I wanted to have similar model, but with
applied in different ways on the real vehicles. The
weird on the model until you rub it off. On the posi-
my approach to painting and weathering.
most common way is to use a hair spray. I had some
tive side, it is very easy to control it and I feel that
First of all I cleaned the PE parts with isopropanol
weird experience with hairsprays before and this
it looks very realistic to scale and ideally replicates
(Tamiya’s acrylic thinner) and then applied XF-24
time to have zero problem during the paintwork
the worn white wash that was applied in irregular
Dark Grey with a drop of Flat White. Next I sealed
I decided to test the advice that I got from Adam
quantities on the vehicle. First I rubbed it with wa-
the basecoat with Tamiya clear and prepared for
Wilder – dilute the Tamiya paint with water, not
ter and then I even used some Lacquer thinner to
whitewash. White wash is one of the most attractive
with thinners. This reduces the adhesion properties
create a different look of peeled paint.
finishes and it allows modeler to have a lot of free-
of the paint dramatically, moreover, it looks weird
Next I took a different tone of white paint from
dom as there were different types of white washes
when mixed in the airbrush and it continues to look
Vallejo and with almost dry brush added fresh
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VEHICLES
Base coat was applied using Tamiya XF-24 Dark Grey + Flat White. No need for modulation here as most of the basecoat would be covered by white wash.
White wash was done on top of the hairspray coat. The Tamiya acrylic paint was diluted with water. The effect may appear strange first, but it will turn out much better later.
Rubbing of the paint with brush moistened with tap water. In some areas I used lacquer thinner to create a different appearance (e.g. on the transmission access cover).
White wash was renewed with Vallejo white paint in vertical moves. Note the grey filter on the running gear that slightly adds contrast kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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VEHICLES
white paint on the model. To add a bit contrast I took XF-24 Dark Grey and did some grey chipping with a sponge. The tracks, tires, crew seat, exhausts and tools were painted with different Vallejo model color range paints. Next I mixed some light blue oil paint with black and did a wash over the raised detail to highlight the shape of the vehicle. On the running gear I applied MIG’s grey filter as a base for mud and when it was dry I put some matt varnish with a brush and Vallejo pigments on top. This way they adhere to the model and look exactly the way
Adding another layer of contrast with sponge and grey paint.
you put them.
Running gear and tools painted with Vallejo acrylics.
After that I decided to replicate accumulations of dirt in the corners on Flakpanzer. This was done with brown-black oils carefully blended into the paint with minimal amounts of thinner on the brush. On other parts, like top of the superstructure or top of the gun shields I repeated application of Vallejo white with a paint brush, now replicating renewed white wash over the darkened old one. Having seen Mike Rinaldi’s masterpieces I was always charmed by his way of making winter themed vehicles. One of the hints that I find really useful from him is to do snow on the model with white pigment. I took small
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VEHICLES
amounts of white pigment from Vallejo and put it into the corners thinking of the vehicle that was driving the dry frozen road and the wind was blowing some snow from the sides of it. The pigments were fixed with fixer from Wilder – it dries really fast! As a final touch I added some frozen water streaking with the Tamiya clear applied with a brush in small quantities. Then I decided to add more white on the exhaust covers and put a winter camouflaged helmet with MP40 inside. Can you imagine A wash was done with oil paints. Now the model received the necessary depth and volume.
Pigments applied on the running gear. I used a combination of Vallejo and MIG production products. Tamiya matt clear was used as a fixing agent. Barrel and ammo clips were painted with Vallejo Gun and received MIG productions dark wash.
Oil paints were used to add shadows and highlights on the model. For shadows I used a range of brown tones and for highlights – pure white. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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riding on this thing that had zero protection for the crew in -30⁰C?
VEHICLES
This photograph illustrates best the obtained grimy look. Several layers of whitewash have a bit different tones. The tracks were polished with graphite pencil. kagero.eu • shop.kagero.pl
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I added lenses, rusty spare tracks and replicated accumulation of snow with the help of white pigments and pigment fixer
VEHICLES
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VEHICLES
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