Garmany guide the
elements of men’s style
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in which Johnell Garmany describes how to keep your sartorial mojo
From top, Kangol fedora, 3x1 jeans, Canali grey stripe suit, Salvatore
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Is anything new in outerwear? Yes: Dress coats are getting bolder as men recognize that outerwear is not just a means of keeping warm, but a way to make a statement. Coats from Stefano Capaldi, Canali and other top brands incorporate patterened fabrics, leather trim, even fur collars. Leather coats and shearlings remain strong. As for length, coats run the gamut from hitting the hip to below the knee. Hats are big too—pork pies, fedoras à la Sinatra—all of which look as good with a suit as they do jeans and a T-shirt.
How should a guy update his wardrobe this fall? There’s been a reverse in the way men dress, with the younger man dressing up in ways older men used to. With suits and sportcoats, bolder patterns are in demand. Vivid windowpanes, sharp plaids, distinctive patterns you wouldn’t have chosen five years ago are now very popular. In terms of brands, Isaia continues to have a major influence. The key to Isaia is a modern silhouette: Jackets are shorter, shoulders are more natural with less padding, and while the armholes remain high, the head of the sleeve is larger so there’s room for a man to flex. Canali remains our number one seller, and I can honestly say that this fall collection is their best in 10 years. As a category, custom has exploded. The man who comes in for a custom suit is not doing so because he has difficult measurements. Rather, ordering a custom suit is like building a house—a man is in control when he can pick out linings and fabrics, decide on silhouette, the number of vents and buttons, choose details like ticket pockets. Plus, there’s no longer that long wait. A semi-customized suit is ready within a week; a full-custom suit, six to eight weeks. Yes, it’s going to be somewhat pricier, but the fit can’t be duplicated.
Ferragamo double monk straps
Once a guy has a great suit, what does he need to complete the look? A great shirt comes next. Of all the available shirt patterns, you’ll be seeing lots of checks this season—smallscale and large, too many to count. Kiton makes some of the best shirts out there—and they’re priced accordingly because their fabrics are luscious. Isaia and Gucci offer terrific fits in that they’re slimmed but made for the athletically built guy, who is largely our customer. No one will mistake one of their shirts for a tent, which is how some men think their shirts are supposed to fit. Although every type of collar is selling, the point collar is coming back, and it makes a particularly sharp statement, pardon the pun, when fitted with collar stays. Eton, the popular Swedish brand, makes shirts without removeable collar stays, and they stay crisp because Eton’s fabrics and workmanship are so outstanding.
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You’re at the forefront of denim. What’s exciting? We’re carrying a new brand called 3x1. These jeans are hand-made in an atelier in Manhattan’s Soho using denim from artisinal mills in Japan, some of which still use original 19th century looms to produce beautiful selvedge cloth. The zippers for the jeans are hand-made in Switzerland; the hardware is custom and unique. I’m talking about jeans made with the same attention to detail that a master tailor uses in crafting a custom suit. As a result, the fit of the finished jeans is flattering to almost every guy that wears them.
What trends should we know about in shoes? The double monk strap is so popular right now that it’s making us practically see double, so high is the demand. Ferragamo and Di Bianco have particularly elegant models, as does Gucci, which has debuted versions this season in a smokey grey and a midnight black. One of the great features of the monk strap is its versatility—it looks great with jeans and a suit, and the style stands out. Calfskin and suede chukka desert boots remain as strong this season as they were last. And if we’re going to measure boots by both their fashion-heat index and their actual heat index, then Wolverine and Billy Reid are top choices. Meanwhile, Gucci and Lanvin continue to design sneakers that are white hot on the market.