KANSAS! Magazine | Summer 2017

SUMMER 2017

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VOL 73

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ISSUE 2

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KANSASMAG.COM

two-wheeled issue

o p en r o ad

motorcycle routes | biker breakfasts | gravel grinders motor museums | bicycle races | a bit of Evel Knievel

contents features 38 |

Cyclists and Bikers

46 |

All-Terrain Kansas

52 |

Let’s Ride, Again

There are few better ways to explore the state during the summer than a two-wheel journey—with or without a motor—on a route chosen to match your interests

From sand dunes to river bottoms, parks across the state offer ATV enthusiasts unique trails and thrills.

Kansas accelerates its motorcycle love affair at bike-themed museums across the state

departments 04 |

In This Issue

06 |

From the Editor

09 |

This Season

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

SUMMER 2017

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10 | Culture 12 | Sampler 15 | Outside 17 | Shop 18 | Eat 20 | Behind the Lens 22 | Reasons We Love Kansas 25 | Summer 2017 Events

26 |

Wide Open Spaces

26 | TOTAL ECLIPSE A photographer shares advice for capturing this summer’s total eclipse of the sun in northeast Kansas

28 | EMPORIA’S DIRTY KANZA WEEKEND Host to one of the world’s leading gravel road races, this town offers a full weekend of excitement

32 | TASTE OF KANSAS: BIKES AND BREAKFAST Buckle your helmet and come hungry to one of several Kansas motorcycle meet-ups

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KANSAS! Gallery: Summer

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#KansasMag

A cyclist races on a road outside of Hutchinson | Deborah Walker

KANSAS! MAGAZINE SUMMER 2017

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SUMMER 2017

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VOL 73

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ISSUE 2

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KANSASMAG.COM

two-wheeled issue

open r oad

motorcycle routes | biker breakfasts | gravel grinders motor museums | bicycle races | a bit of Evel Knievel

ON THE COVER A group of bicyclists ride on N. Whiteside Road, west of Hutchinson as they pass a silo on 4th Street. Photograph by Deborah Walker

IN THIS

issue 52

BIKE AND LENS

How do you cover stories about motorcycle museums and motorcycle routes? You tap motorcycle enthusiasts, of course.

Brian Pitts, who shot this edition’s cover image, is a veteran motorcyclist who often travels the state on his Yamaha Stratoliner. He was joined in this issue by Justin Lister, the McPherson-based photographer who shot the images of the Marquette Motorcycle Museum in the features section of this issue just before setting off on a cross-country journey on his custom 2010 Triumph Bonneville 900.Tough work, but someone’s got to bike it.

Kansas is fortunate to fall within range 26 of this summer’s rare total solar eclipse (see Bill Stephens’ story on p. 26 for more info). But the best locations in Kansas to experience the longest and darkest eclipse are in Doniphan County. Several venues are organizing events around the eclipse.

ECLIPSE EVENTS

SUMMER 2017

04

The city of Atchison is planning an eclipse event at Benedictine College, Mount St. Scholastica Convent, and the Amelia Earhart Airport. More information is online at visitatchison.com/events/totality-eclipse Highland Community College, located on the line of totality, is hosting several groups on their campus. The campus will be open to the public, but Craig Moser, the school’s vice president for institutional advancement, warns that parking may be at a premium. Some of the events on their campus are reserved for select groups of astronomers and not open to the public.

Troy will also be hosting many public viewing events at their County 4H Fairgrounds, baseball field, the county courthouse square, and high school. A summary of their events can be found online at dpcountyks.com/ news/eclipse-in-the-heartland-viewing-areas

GRAVEL PHOTO GURU 28

Dave Leiker, who took the photographs in our guide to Emporia and the Dirty Kanza, has been documenting the popular racing event for four years. The Emporia-based photographer has this advice for photographers arriving for the event:

1) Pan your camera and set focus mode to “continuous” to capture motion of racers.

2) Up your shutter speed to 1/500 sec. or higher if you have enough light.

3) Be safe and keep the racers safe by not driving on the race route. Get a course map and find intersections where you can drive to and set up for your shot.

PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) NASA, JUSTIN LISTER, BRIAN PITTS AND DAVE LEIKER

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

travelks.com/solareclipse

SUMMER2017

Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism Andrea Etzel EDITOR

Sam Brownback GOVERNOR

Robin Jennison

KDWPT SECRETARY

WWW.SUNFLOWERPUB.COM LAWRENCE, KANSAS

WWW.MCAPRINT.COM WICHITA, KANSAS

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

PRINTER

Katy Ibsen

Cheryl Wells

GENERAL MANAGER

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Shelly Bryant DESIGNER/ART DIRECTOR

Kelly Gibson SECTION EDITOR

Nathan Pettengill SECTION EDITOR

Leslie Andres COPY EDITOR

Joanne Morgan

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Newsstand price $4.99 per issue; subscription price $18 per year; international subscription price $22 per year. All prices include all applicable sales tax.

Please address subscription inquiries to: Toll-free: (800) 678-6424 KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146 e-mail: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com Website: www.KansasMag.com POSTMASTER: Send address change to: KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146.

Please mail all editorial inquiries to: KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612 e-mail: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com The articles and photographs that appear in KANSAS! magazine may not be broadcast, published or otherwise reproduced without the express written consent of Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism or the appropriate copyright owner.

Unauthorized use is prohibited. Additional restrictions may apply.

05 SUMMER 2017

KANSAS! (ISSN 0022-8435) is published quarterly by the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612; (785) 296-3479; TTY Hearing Impaired: (785) 296-3487.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

MARKETING, (785) 832-7264

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

FROM THE

editor

Long, winding roads and clear blue skies as far as the eye can see set the perfect backdrop for a summer adventure. While many choose to explore Kansas on four wheels, for those on two wheels the Sunflower State holds an unexpected experience. With miles of rolling hills along the beautiful countryside, Kansas offers picturesque settings. The Kansas landscape is one you will want to stop and capture to remember for years to come (and to share with friends when asked about your journey).

One moment you don’t want to miss this year—because it won’t happen again for many decades—is the total solar eclipse passing over the northeast corner of Kansas this August.

Communities along the path of the eclipse have been preparing for the event for the last year (and you can find out more on pages 4 and 26-27). People from across the nation will be visiting our state for this spectacular phenomenon.

As mentioned in the spring issue, this year KDWPT, the Kansas tourism office, is holding a photography contest. We hope you’ll use the hashtag #NoPlaceLikeKS and share your travels in Kansas on either Instagram or Twitter. Winners will be chosen monthly, and your photograph might be selected to run in a nationwide campaign or be featured in the Kansas Official Travel Guide.

Wishing everyone happy, safe travels this summer!

ANDREA ETZEL

DON’T FORGET TO VOTE! We’re in the final leg of our readers’ choice “Favorite Local Eats in Kansas.” The top finalists have been determined— and now they want your vote. Visit either our Facebook page or website (kansasmag.com) to vote for your favorite. Voting ends May 31st.

facebook.com/KansasMagazine

EDITOR, KANSAS! MAGAZINE

@KANSASMag

KansasMagazine (get spotted; use #kansasmag to tag us)

PHOTOGRAPH Courtesy Andrea Etzel

SUMMER 2017

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THIS

season

SUMMER2017 SPRING2017

THIS SEASON

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12 Sampler 15 Outside 17 Shop 18 Eat 20 Behind the Lens 22 Reasons We Love Kansas 25 Summer 2017 Events

20

32

WIDE OPEN SPACES 26 Total Eclipse 28 Emporia’s Dirty Kanza Weekend 32 Taste of Kansas: Bikes and Breakfast

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

10 Culture

09 SUMMER 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) Dave Leiker, Pitts Photography, David Mayes, Deborah Walker

Welcome to KANSAS! magazine’s “This Season.” Here we explore what’s new and buzzing throughout the state—from restaurants and shopping to cultural happenings and attractions.

culture.

By Cecilia Harris

Outdoor Theater A

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

gentle breeze cools theater lovers in lawn chairs under the starry summer sky as the music and lights signal the opening scene of another Broadway RFD musical in Lindsborg’s Swennson Park.

Billed as “the longest running outdoor theatre in Kansas,” Broadway RFD was established in 1959 to bring entertainment and exposure to the theatrical arts to those living in the Smoky Valley.

Over the decades, the community theater has performed such longstanding Broadway shows as Fiddler on the Roof, Hello Dolly and The Sound of Music in its unique open-air venue. The park’s band shell was built in 1935 by President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Works Progress Administration.

This year’s production, the classic fairy tale Beauty and the Beast, will run July 21, 22, 28 and 29 in the park on Lindsborg’s North Main Street. Shows begin at 8:30 p.m.

In this stage adaptation of the animated Disney film, a beautiful young woman takes the place of her imprisoned father in the castle of a beast, who is really a cursed prince, and the two fall in love.

“This is the first time it’s ever seen our stage,” says Jessica Lundberg, president of the Broadway RFD Board of Directors. Extravagant costuming, elaborate lighting and sound effects, and a full orchestra of talented area musicians are part of production plans.

Lundberg says the outdoor performance “makes for a totally different” theater experience and is truly a community effort.“Around 100 people come together to make this happen. It creates a ‘we’re in this together’ attitude, and it’s good to know we can pull it off in that [outdoor] environment and have it be successful.” broadwayrfd.org

SUMMER 2017

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Where in

KANSAS?

Lindsborg Hutchinson

JOIN ‘EM FAMILY COMMUNITY THEATRE’S SUMMER MUSICAL THEATRE ACADEMY July 10–14, Hutchinson Dream of starring on a stage?

Every summer, children ages six to 17 learn acting, singing and dance skills—and even make-up design—at the Family Community Theatre’s Summer Musical Theatre Academy in Hutchinson.

“Something new this year is we’ve added an adult class for ages 18 and up,” says Craig Williams, president of the Family Community Theatre’s Board of Directors.

Now all ages will hone their theater skills at the camp, which culminates in a showcase performance at Emanuel Lutheran Church in Hutchinson on July 14 at 7 p.m.

“The showcase gives all three age groups an opportunity to perform and utilize the skills they’ve learned during the week’s camp,” Williams says.

“One of our biggest reasons for doing this is to allow our younger actors to get skills they can utilize on stage. We’re giving them the skill base, the confidence and ability to join our larger [community theatre] group in our main stage shows.” familycommunitytheatre.org

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

this season

sampler.

Four Wheels, One Love Car clubs offer community connections to auto enthusiasts

By Megan Saunders

I

n the last century, millions have heard the call of the open road.According to the Kansas Department of Transportation, there are more than 140,600 miles of roads in the state, creating the perfect canvas for auto enthusiasts. Kansas car clubs cater to every make, model and level of expertise with one thing in common—an appreciation for all things auto.We’ve compiled these examples for your cruising pleasure, but clubs like these exist in every corner of the state.

Emporia Flatland Cruisers Since 1994,the Emporia Flatland Cruisers have embraced classic cars,muscle cars,rat rods,street rods,modified cars and modern classics—basically,anything with four wheels.Sherry Jones,club secretary and treasurer,says diversity is part of the fun,as members enjoy sharing car stories, reminiscing about the cars of yore and,of course,driving them.The Emporia Flatland Cruisers hosts an annual car show—held the third Saturday each May—to fundraise for automotive technology scholarships at the nearby Flint Hills Technical College.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Mustang Club of Greater Kansas City Regardless of model, year or state of repair, the Mustang Club of Greater Kansas City offers a gathering place for all Ford and Shelby Mustang automobile enthusiasts.

SUMMER 2017

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GET GOING

Nona Hernandez, club vice president, says the club has been dedicated to the preservation, restoration and enjoyment of this American staple since 1984.The Mustang Club holds cruise nights once a month from April to October. Members also organize several fundraisers throughout the year and monthly social events.A club favorite is“Diners, Drivers and Dives,” when members cruise to a restaurant for dinner and camaraderie.While the club is an environment to learn about and share a passion for Mustangs, Hernandez says the most invaluable benefit is a chance to create lifelong bonds.

Yard Art Classics Car Club, Manhattan In 1990, a woman dismissed her husband’s spare truck parts as “yard art,” and the Yard Art Classics Car Club was born. Members welcome a wide range of vehicles, from vintage originals to new cars and everything in between. Don’t have a car? No problem—the club’s only requirement is interest. The Yard Art Classics Car Club has hosted the Cars in the Park car show for 27 years, benefiting local organizations and transporting visitors back in time with cars and music from the past. Club president David Adams says club members share technical advice and find support, as well as create lasting friendships.

Races, cruises and shows—oh, yes! Automotive events across the state make for exciting, family-friendly pit stops. Find an event near you.

STOCK CAR SPECTACULAR Dodge City Raceway Park, Dodge City June 3, 2017 | 7:30 p.m. | $10-$15 Visit one of the region’s finest dirt tracks, where you can pick your favorite driver and cheer loudly over the roar of the engines. dodgecityraceway.com

ROLLIN NOSTALGIA SUPER CRUISE Downtown Pittsburg June 3, 2017 | 5–10 p.m. | Free Visit the 8th annual Super Cruise to drool over a smorgasbord of cars, trucks and hotrods and cool off with refreshments. travelks.com

Where in

KANSAS?

Manhattan Kansas City Emporia Pittsburg Dodge City

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

this season

this season

GET OUTSIDE

Zipping Over Kansas

OUTDOOR KIDS DAY Clinton State Park August 12, 2017 For parents with children interested in nature, sign them up for the Outdoor Kids Day at Clinton State Park scheduled for August 12. There will be a fishing derby and an introduction to youth archery. A clinic on Kansas critters, “Snake Scales and Turtle Tales,” rounds out the event. All activities are free. kansaswildscape.org

A

re you eager to ramp up your outdoor adventure gauge a few notches this summer? Does mountain biking or wake boarding no longer deliver the adrenaline surge you need to forget the weekday blahs? Then strap yourself in for a wild sky ride with a zip-line trip.Truly brave souls might even consider a night mission to test their mettle.

Get your bunch together and experience a new sense of adventure.

Before you visit any of these popular zip-lining locations, be sure to check the safety guidelines, which include restrictions on age, height, weight and health status. Zip-line riders must wear proper clothing and shoes; tobacco and alcohol are prohibited.

Reservations are required, and the operations are dependent on weather conditions. Group and multi-ride discounts are available for repeat addicts. Don’t forget your camera to document your heroism for posterity and bragging rights. Make sure cameras are securely fastened, lest they discharge into the wild blue yonder, never to be seen again. So get your bunch together and experience a new sense of adventure.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

KANDANGO Central Kansas June 8–11, 2017 For bicyclists of all experience levels, Kandango provides the opportunity to bike Central Kansas, experience the Flint Hills and explore small communities. The threeday event, which takes place from June 8–11, includes excursions to local attractions along the route.

It also provides buses so riders may customize the trip to each person’s pace, experience and interest. ridekandango.com

outside.

Wildwood Outdoor Adventure Park, Manhattan Sail through the verdant Flint Hills at a venue that boasts seven varied voyages. Blast off over the treetops while screaming with delight, or horror, depending on your courage level. Perfect for a group of friends or even family outings, this sport will produce enduring life-long memories.

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PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

By Dave Zumbaugh

Zip KC, Bonner Springs For those closer to the Kansas City metro, a short drive to Bonner Springs will set you up for a flight with dramatic views of the Kansas River bluffs at speeds exceeding 50 miles per hour, should you dare.

Where in

KANSAS?

Bonner Springs Lawrence Manhattan Central Kansas

Scott Bean Photography K A N S A S L A N D S C A P E A N D N AT U R E P H O T O G R A P H S

785-341-1047 | SCOTT@SCOTTBEANPHOTO.COM

www.scottbeanphoto.com

Clay

County traVel & tourism

VISIT CLAY COUNTY! SpeCIAL eVeNTS: • Longford Rodeo • Pioneer Festival

• Annual Piotique Celebration • City Band Summer Event

Visit our website for details and event dates! www.claycokansas.com

this season

By Patsy Terrell

shop.

S

&

gt. C’s Leathers in Wichita supplies motorcyclists with leather clothing and accessories, but beyond that it is a gathering place. Around owner Irona Cliver’s table and chairs, riders build community.

As a rider and Marine Corps veteran, Cliver wanted a place where people could hang out, warm up and visit. One popular service she offers is sewing patches on leather items, so she set up a table and chairs near her sewing area where vets can talk to other vets and riders discuss where they’ve been or where they’re going.

“We’re one big community that intermingles,” Cliver says. “We all try to support and help one another. The biker community is one of the most giving and charitable I’ve ever run across. My business wouldn’t exist without their support.”

Cliver started in 2010 with a 20-by-20-foot flea market booth. Her store now occupies 2,600 square feet and carries leather goods in sizes from XXS to 7XL. SGT. C’S LEATHERS “I’ve slowly expanded over the years 919 W. 31st St. S. by listening to what my guys want,” Wichita, KS 67217 she says. Recently, she learned how (316) 524-7483 to tool and emboss so she can make custom items. She also can Tuesday–Thursday embroider various products.

9:30 a.m.–5 p.m.

She says customers want road Friday, 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m. names, dates they served and Saturday, 9:30 a.m.–3 p.m. memorial pieces.

She has served customers from coast to coast.Travelers from Connecticut and Vermont have stopped in,and last year she sewed 35 patches for a man from Oregon.Although her products carry a two-year manufacturer’s warranty,she will do repairs on site if possible so customers don’t have to wait.

Sgt. C’s Leathers is a family business. Cliver’s mom helps a couple of days a week, and the store serves in memory of David Cliver—affectionately known as “Bubba.”

“My little brother was my right-hand man when I started the business,”she says. But on the store’s opening day in its new location, December 29, 2011, Bubba died by suicide. He was 26.

The shop’s motto is in honor of Bubba: “Keep it shiny side up and rubber side down.” And on her motorcycle, Cliver keeps her brother’s “sissy bar. She says he is with her every day.

Bubba’s death also inspired his sister to talk to people about suicide. Since the age of 16, Cliver has lost 23 people to suicide— including military friends and customers.

“Suicide has a big stigma around it,” she says. But she has helped people navigate through the VA’s system and find help when they need it. She says she understands how difficult things can feel. “When they get into that dark room there’s no way to find the light switch,” Cliver says. But Cliver wants people to know her shop is a place where they can talk and form friendships. People sometimes come in just to visit, and she has gone to see customers in the hospital after accidents.

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

Where in

KANSAS?

Wichita

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Gear Gathering

SUMMER 2017

17

this season

eat.

By Lou Ann Thomas

W

Food with a view

hether enjoying some barbeque from a riverside picnic table, a plate of pub nachos from a rooftop lounge or some wild-caught seafood lakeside, Kansas has some great food with a view.

The experience of being able to enjoy a good meal alongside the Mighty Mo’ is one of the things that brings people to Chuck & Hanks.

“We’ve become a destination spot, and I don’t know anywhere else in Kansas that is this close to the river,” Charlie Wilburn says.

Cousins Wilburn and Craig Handke opened Chuck & Hank’s River Shack, located along the Missouri River in Atchison, in 2015. Whether you choose to sit outside at a picnic table or inside at one of the tables in the small kitchen, bar and dining area, the river is always part of the experience.

Another Kansas spot where great food is accompanied by a beautiful view is the Newport Grill in Wichita.The outdoor deck overlooks the small lake at Bradley Fair, an upmarket shopping and entertainment center on the city’s east side.The main dining room’s east wall open views of the lake and island.

Diners can savor fresh seafood flown in six days a week; it usually reaches Wichita within 24 hours of being caught. Newport Grill also sources locally grown produce, herbs and other items.

“Our goal is to serve everything as fresh as possible, and we are committed to supporting local farmers and growers,” Noah Ranovish, manager, says.

But great views don’t always involve water.At the Tallgrass Tap House in Manhattan, the rooftop deck overlooks downtown Manhattan with views stretching to the south and west to the Flint Hills and the sea of native grasses.

The deck sits atop an 11,000 square-foot, ten-barrel brew house, which features a rotating lineup of a half-dozen craft beers paired with American cuisine.

Whether you’re looking for an eclectic place along a rolling river, a seafood spot on a lake or a rooftop deck to watch a sunset, you can find it in Kansas.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

NATIONAL FESTIVAL OF BREADS Manhattan | June 17 The 2017 National Festival of Breads will be in Manhattan on June 17. The festivities include a baking competition, trade show, exhibits, demonstrations and samples at the Hilton Garden Inn. The festival is open to the public, and admission is free with a donation of a canned or nonperishable food item. All food donations benefit the Flint Hills Breadbasket.

SUMMER 2017

18

Where in

KANSAS?

Atchison Topeka Manhattan

FIESTA MEXICANA Topeka | July 11–15 Now in its 84th year, Topeka’s Fiesta Mexicana is one of the longest-running events in the state and one of the largest celebrations of Hispanic culture in the Midwest. The five-night festival, held from July 11–15 this year, kicks off with a parade, followed by traditional Mexican food, music, dancing, crafts, a carnival and a jalapeño-eating contest.

The festival is hosted by Our Lady of Guadalupe Church and is a fundraiser for the Holy Family School in Topeka.

PHOTOGRAPH Doug Stremel

FOOD HAPPENINGS

“People often think photography is about the camera, but it’s actually about what’s between your ears.”

– David Mayes

this season

behind the lens.

David Mayes A conversation with KANSAS! photographers about their lives in photography

I

’m a native Kansan and the luckiest guy on the planet. I’m married to an amazing woman, and we have two great kids. Because of their support, I’m a freelance commercial photographer and get to do work I love on my own terms. I grew up in Abilene (go Cowboys!) and went to school at K-State. I worked in the newspaper business for about 15 years and then had the good fortune to serve as the university photographer for my alma mater. I left to hang out my own shingle in 2015. I prefer to be outside whenever possible. I’m an OK cook (the main reason my wife has kept me around) and try (occasionally successfully) not to take myself too seriously.

What was the moment you wanted to be a photographer? How old were you at the time?

I think it was when I was in high school. I worked on the yearbook and newspaper.

I had several offers to play football at smaller four-year schools and junior colleges but chose to go to K-State, which had a great reputation for turning out good photographers. I’ve never regretted that choice.

What are some uncommon objects that you like to photograph?

I like to photograph bikes. I love everything about them. I love to ride them. I love to work on them. Unfortunately, it’s kind of tough to carry a bunch of camera gear on a road bike, so I usually use the cell phone.

I heard once that the best camera in the world is the one you have with you. So true.

PHOTOGRAPHS David Mayes

What was your first camera? What did you like about it?

My parents had a Kodak 110 instamatic when I was little. I liked it because it was the only camera I had access to.

If you had to describe your photographic style in terms of a family tree, who is your “mother,” your “father,” and your “brother” or “sister”?

There were many great mentors at K-State, but I would say the one person who inspired me most in my formative college years was Jeff Tuttle—a great Kansas photographer. My mother would be Cheryl May (she was the head of media relations

Tell us about your best chance photo taken in Kansas. Where was it? How did it come about?

I’m not very good at being complimentary to my own work, but there is one picture that sticks in my mind. I was driving some back roads in western Kansas last year near Scott City and noticed a hawk flying along carrying a packrat it had just caught.

I was lucky enough to get a few pictures before it was gone. I love the color (sunset again … ) and the grace of the hawk in flight and the circle of life.

If you had to describe your photography in terms of a color wheel, where would you fall on it?

Somewhere in the orange/red area. Love shooting at sunrise and sunset.

Draw a map of Kansas and pinpoint on it three locations that have significance for you or your career.

Abilene. It’s where I grew up and started playing with a camera.

Manhattan. I went to school at K-State, and that’s really where I got my start at the Collegian newspaper and then later worked at the Manhattan Mercury and K-State.

Hutchinson. That was my first daily newspaper job out of college. I had worked briefly at a weekly paper in Lake Tahoe. It only took me three months to realize I belonged in Kansas. But I’m glad I tried it.

Tell us about the shot that got away.

Well, it hasn’t gotten away completely.

There’s a power plant in Kansas I want to photograph at night during the middle of winter. It’s still there. I just haven’t gotten to it yet.

Who would you name as an “Honorary Kansan” for their photography? Why? Michael Forsberg of Nebraska. He’s a self-described conservation photographer.

I never look at his photos without being absolutely stunned.

What’s the hardest thing to photograph badly? To photograph well?

I can’t speak for anyone else, but I find food difficult to screw up. People can definitely be a challenge.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

at K-State at the time). She hired me as the university photographer at K-State and gave me a great gift: self-confidence. Brothers and sisters are too many to mention, but I would single out Rod Mikinski. I learned a lot from him when I worked with him at the Manhattan Mercury.

21 SUMMER 2017

Where are you from? Where do you live now?

How many years have you been in Kansas?

I grew up in Abilene. I live in Manhattan now. I came here to go to school in the late 1980s. I left for about a year after graduating to work but came back. I’ve lived in Kansas for 46 years.

this season

reasons.

By Cecilia Harris

REASONS we love Kansas

Rising summer temperatures provide reason to explore the state’s water attractions

COOL OFF FOR FREE Spray Parks Spray parks charge no admission fees and typically are open more days and for longer hours than traditional swimming pools.

In Atchison, you can enjoy Independence Park’s water sprays when you are in town for the Amelia Earhart Festival July 14-15.

In El Dorado you can spray a water cannon in the North Main Spray Park. In Wilson, you can brave the hanging dump bucket at the Spray Pad in PRIDE Park, and in Kansas City, you can pass through the water jets at the Eisenhower Park Sprayground.

(785) 658-2272 | wilsonkansas.com (316) 321-9100 | 360eldorado.com (913) 573-8327 | wycokck.org (800) 234-1854 | visitatchison.com

FLOAT DOWN THE RIVER National Water Trails Paddlers in kayaks and canoes can view the woodlands from the Kansas (Kaw) River or spot wildlife along the Arkansas River on educational float trips organized by the Friends of the Kaw and the Arkansas River Coalition.

The National Park Service designated as National Water Trails the Kansas River from Junction City to Kansas City and the Arkansas River from Great Bend to the Kansas-Oklahoma state line southeast of Arkansas City.

(866) 748-5337 | Kansasriver.org (316) 684-0730 | arkrivercoalition.org

this season

reasons.

Enjoy a perfect spot for reflection by the 25-foot-high Cowley Waterfall at Cowley State Fishing Lake near Dexter.You can also explore Elk Falls city’s namesake, a 10-foot plummet viewed from an 1893 iron truss bridge. Near Manhattan, the Deep Creek waterfall at Pillsbury Crossing Wildlife Area spans nearly 60 feet.Visit after a rain for best views at all sites.

(620) 876-5730 | cowleycounty.org (785) 539-9999 | ksoutdoors.com

Webster State Park (785) 425-6775 Elk City State Park (620) 331-6295 Check lake conditions at ksoutdoors.com

REASONS

we love Kansas

DIVE IN The Big Pool, Garden City

SPLASH AROUND ALL DAY Water Parks From daredevil slides to leisure pools for sunbathing, Kansas water parks offer a day full of excitement, fun, and relaxation for the entire family.

The Wrangler Rapids Wave Pool at the western-themed Long Branch Lagoon in Dodge City simulates the ocean, the Lazy River at the Aquatic Center in Hays flows past waterfalls and rock cliffs, and Kenwood Cove in Salina thrills visitors with several water slides, including a 275-foot inner tube plunge.

(620) 225-8156 | lblagoon.com (785) 623-2650 | haysrec.org (785) 309-5765 | kenwoodcove.com

This municipal swimming pool is so huge people once water-skied across its surface to show off that it is larger than a football field. That size is even more impressive when you consider it was opened in 1922, after being hand-dug and lined in concrete

by Garden City residents as a community project.

Billed as the World’s Largest Outdoor Concrete Municipal Pool, this landmark recently underwent a facelift and now includes five slides, 50-meter lanes for lap swimming, and an adjoining splash park.

(620) 276-1100 garden-city.org

Send your “Reasons We Love Kansas” to ksreasons@sunflowerpub.com or to Reasons, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

REST AND REFLECT Waterfalls

Jet-skiers, water-skiers, and speedboaters enjoy the open water at Webster Reservoir near Stockton, one of dozens of Kansas lakes where water recreation abounds.

Wind sport enthusiasts prefer Cheney Reservoir, one of the country’s top sailing lakes and home to national championship sailing regattas.And anglers looking for that big catch to brag about favor the Elk City Reservoir, located near Independence, where the world-record 123-pound flathead catfish was caught.

Cheney State Park (315) 652-3665

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PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT) KDWPT (3), Deborah Walker, City of Salina

MAKE LAKE TIME State Reservoirs

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Fishing and boating Hunting and hiking Camping and picnicking Marion County Economic Development www.growmarioncounty.com | 620-382-8830

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this season

SYMPHONY IN THE FLINT HILLS June 10 / Deer Horn Ranch, Geary County Annual outdoors concert celebrating natural landmark and classic music symphonyintheflinthills.org

LAWRENCE BUSKER FESTIVAL May 26-28 / Lawrence Street performers, musicians, acrobats and more lawrencebuskerfest.com

NATIONAL FESTIVAL OF BREADS June 17 / Manhattan Wheat State hosts exhibition of milling and baking nationalfestivalofbreads.com

DK200 BIKE RACE June 3 / Emporia One of the world’s premier gravel road races with citywide celebrations | dirtykanza.com

HEARTLAND ART GUILD SHOW July 3 - August 4 / Paola Thirteenth annual international miniature paintings and sculptures show. artkc.com/heartland_art_guild.htm

NATIONAL BIPLANE FLY-IN June 3 / Junction City Gathering of vintage and modern biplanes | nationalbiplaneflyin.com

PHOTOGRAPH Dave Leiker

SYMPHONY AT SUNSET June 3 / Abilene—Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum Annual symphony concert honoring D-Day and nation’s veterans eisenhower.archives.org

FOURTH AT THE FORT July 4 / Fort Leavenworth Day-long celebrations marking Independence Day | lvks.org

AMELIA EARHART FESTIVAL July 15 / Atchison City-wide fair to celebrate famed hometown pilot visitatchison.com

KANDANGO June 8-11 / Manhattan Three-day bike tours around Flint Hills | ridekandango.com

PRETTY PRAIRIE RODEO July 19-22 / Pretty Prairie Smalltown rodeo known for nighttime competition that brings in huge crowds | pprodeo.com

PRAIRIE DAYS June 10 / Independence—Little House on the Prairie Museum Celebration of prairie pioneer life littlehouseontheprairiemuseum.com

KANSAS BIGGEST RODEO August 3-5 / Phillipsburg Nine decades of history and still going strong kansasbiggestrodeo.com

FIND MORE EVENTS AT TRAVELKS.COM

Because all events are subject to change, please confirm with organizers before finalizing plans.

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summer 2017

NASCAR RACING SERIES May 12-13 / Kansas Speedway NASCAR Camping World Truck Series and Monster Energy NASCAR Cup Series kansasspeedway.com

25 SUMMER 2017

EVENTS

events.

wide open spaces

Eclipse Total

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A photographer shares advice for capturing this summer’s total eclipse of the sun in northeast Kansas

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By Bill Stephens

PHOTOGRAPHS Shutterstock

• Know how to accurately use the solar filter. Do not attempt photography of the eclipse if you are not experienced in using this filter.

• Do not use any flash. The moon is 250,000 miles away and your flash only goes about 20 feet. The only effect your flash will have is to ruin the darkness vision of people around you.

• If your camera accepts other lenses, use at least a 200mm or 300mm lens.

• Make certain all camera batteries are fully charged and all memory cards are freshly formatted.

• Turn off autofocus. You will need only to preset your lenses at infinity.

• Use a tripod. During totality you will need to change your shutter speed to 1/60th second or slower, and you cannot hand-hold at that speed.

• There will be much excitement going on all around you as your fellow observers get caught up in the event. Don’t forget to take some photos of them. In fact, I would recommend considering these types of shots as your main focus— you might get some great reaction images without risking your vision.

• If you are using a DSLR (digital single lens reflex), choose an ISO (sensitivity) setting of 400 or 800 as a starting point. Remember to use a solar filter in front of your lens during your exposure tests.

• If your camera has the option, use RAW or TIFF format because it allows greater flexibility in adjusting the exposure and color balance when post-processing your images.

Safety This is obvious, but deserves noting: Looking directly at the sun will damage your eyes—and we photographers tend to value our vision. You can purchase inexpensive eclipse glasses for $5–$10 online, and as the eclipse gets closer, you can expect the camera and video stores in the eclipse region to have these glasses available.

The glasses will take care of your eyes, but your camera needs some attention also.

“Do not use your standard photographic neutral-density filters,” warns Culbertson. “Damage to eyes and equipment is likely to happen if you don’t use a proper filter.”

Without these filters, the intense bright light from a magnified image of the sun could harm or ruin the CCD (charge coupled device— basically the electronic mechanism that converts light into pixels) in your camera. And, of course, your eyes could be damaged as well if you don’t use the filter.

What you must have is a special solar filter. If you don’t have one on your camera or if you are not confident in using one, then it is almost certainly better not to attempt to photograph the eclipse.

Photography Photographing a solar eclipse to show the full beauty of the event is a demanding task. During the two and one-half minutes of totality (when the moon fully blocks the sun’s light), experienced professional photographers will use multiple cameras and lenses and shoot more than 250 images.

The images will be combined in post-production using advanced software and high-end computers.

An excellent example of this approach is the work of Miloslav Druckmüller. Search for his homepage online to see his images of eclipses from across the world and to read about his approach.

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Location Because of the earth’s rotation and the movement of the moon, this total solar eclipse will move from Oregon to South Carolina in a southeast direction across the United States.

“Not all of the 48 states will see the 2017 total solar eclipse,” Culbertson explains. “The SunMoon-Earth alignment and geometry of the system make it so that when the moon passes in front of the sun, only a small shadow is cast onto the earth’s surface, but that shadow makes a narrow but long path across the North American continent as the earth rotates. Several states in the U.S. will experience the eclipse, but not all of them. The eclipse path extends into the oceans on either side of the U.S., too, but no other country will see this one.”

In Kansas, the center of the eclipse enters just northeast of Sabetha, passing through Highland and Troy and across the Missouri River into St. Joseph. The area within the total eclipse will experience total darkness lasting two minutes and 38 seconds.

A partial eclipse can be viewed approximately fifty miles either side

A Few Guidelines from the Pro

of the path of totality, but for the full effect you will want to be as close to the center as possible.

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P

hotographs are meant to capture fleeting moments—and this summer’s total eclipse of the sun is certainly that. Around 1 p.m. on August 21, portions of northeast Kansas will become dark as the moon aligns between the Earth and the Sun and completely blocks light from reaching portions of the Earth’s surface.

Brenda Culbertson, an official NASA/JPL ambassador who lives and works in Mayetta, notes that the last time Kansas witnessed such an event was on June 8, 1918. And a total solar eclipse is something that will not happen again in this part of the nation until August 12, 2045.

Is a solar eclipse something that we can capture and preserve with a photograph? Well, that depends on where you are and how well you prepare—two good rules for photography in general, but crucial to documenting this event.

wide open spaces

Emporia’s Dirty Kanza Weekend

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Host to one of the world’s leading gravel road races, this town offers a full weekend of excitement

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Racers assemble at the starting point of the Dirty Kanza in downtown Emporia.

By Christine Steinkuehler

Photography by Dave Leiker

Staff prepare pizza dough for the wood-fired ovens at Radius Brewing Company, one of the main restaurants in Downtown Emporia.

The Dirty Kanza is known as one of the world’s leading gravel road races, but it also takes athletes through the Flint Hills and across the area’s creeks.

Emporia is small enough to spend much of the time exploring its central, downtown region by foot, but large enough to offer several attractions for a busy extended weekend.

FRIDAY 1:00 p.m. Arrive early to spend time exploring Emporia State University. Stop in at the Union for an iced coffee and stroll over the bridge at Wooster’s Lake to the school’s William Allen White Library, which houses a rich children’s literature collection with items such as the illustrations of Lois Lenski (best known for her books Strawberry Girl, Cowboy Small and Little Fire Engine). Other attractions include the collections of the Johnston Geology Museum in Cram Hall, which boasts a collection of fluorescent minerals, the bones of a Kansas mosasaurus and the remains of a giant sloth. If you have time, you can also visit the National Teachers Hall of Fame in Visser Hall to see if your favorite teacher is honored in the gallery. emporia.edu/libsv | emporia.edu/~es/museum/museum.htm | nthf/org 4:00 p.m. Preliminary events have been going on all week, but the Dirty Kanza festivities start up on this day, and now is the time to join them. Go downtown to Commercial Street for the All Things Gravel Bicycle Expo. This huge celebration shuts down the town’s main street for the day as sponsors sell and display everything you can imagine (and some things you might never have considered) that can be used for biking on gravel. Dirtykanza.com | emporiamainstreet.com 6:00 p.m. You don’t have to go far for dinner with three great dining choices within 3 blocks of one another on Commercial Street. Radius Brewing Company, a microbrew with a full menu, is a popular choice. You can also opt for Casa Ramos for Mexican fare or Pho’ BannLao for great

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t the central-eastern gateway of the Flint Hills, Emporia has become known as the gravel-grinding capital of the world for hosting the annual Dirty Kanza. This premier cycling competition in June consists of several races for the hard-core mountain-biking crowd, with distances of 25, 50, 100 and 200 miles. For the athletes, it can be a grueling, transformative feat of endurance. For spectators, it is a chance to witness physical strength and mental prowess—as well as a reason to enjoy a weekend in Emporia.

Founded in 1857 as the Emporia Town Company by a real estate group and an ambitious young newspaperman, the area grew rapidly after the 1862 Homestead Act brought in settlers and railroad development. First was the Missouri, Kansas and Texas (the “Katy”) line, and then the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway. This larger railroad company made Emporia a division maintenance point and built a two-story depot complete with a Harvey House restaurant. The Kansas Legislature passed a bill in 1863 creating the Kansas State Normal School, which later became known as Emporia State University and continues to be widely recognized for its teacher training and glass-blowing programs.

Emporia is small enough that visitors can spend much of their time exploring its downtown region by foot, but it’s large enough to offer several attractions for a busy extended weekend.

While the Dirty Kanza should not be missed (beginning on May 30 with the big events over the weekend of June 2–4), any summer weekend spent exploring the town will be time well spent.

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Emporia State University offers several attractions for visitors.

wide open spaces

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Asian noodle soups. After dinner, sit outside on the patio at Mulready’s Pub and enjoy craft beers and scotch from around the world.

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Overnight Emporia has several hotel options, including Candlewood Suites and Holiday Inn Express—but be warned, rooms are booked well in advance for Dirty Kanza weekend. Start planning now. If you can find an opening, or visit during a different time of the year, consider checking in at the Gufler Mansion.

Designed by Emporia architect Henry Brinkman, constructed of rag brick and trimmed with Algonite stone, the house was built in 1915 for Albert Gufler, manager of the Theodore Poehler Mercantile Company. Though the third-floor ballroom is now an apartment, the grand staircase and much of the original woodwork remain. Gufler Mansion is a fabulous mix of period and modern with rooms available through Airbnb.

SATURDAY 6:00 a.m. Be a hero and join the early-rising racers for the starting gun of the big event, the 200-mile race. It takes off downtown, in front of the Granada Theater. You can send off the pack with applause and give special cheers to Kansans such as multiple champion Dan Hughes and 2015 champion Bryan Jensen.

6:20 a.m. Starting gun of the 100-mile race.

6:40 a.m. Starting gun of the 50-mile race.

7:00 a.m. This puts things into perspective. The Dirty Kanza is such an amazing showcase of athleticism that the community fun ride that starts at 7:00 a.m. goes on for an entire 25 miles. That’s considered the short, nothing-to-it distance. Send them off with waves and cheers as you plot your breakfast moves.

7:15 a.m. Consider stopping in at the Granada coffee shop and grabbing some pastries or cinnamon rolls from Amanda’s. A bigger sit-down breakfast is possible at the popular Huddle House.

8:30 a.m. Take advantage of the cooler morning temperatures to explore Emporia’s Peter Pan Park. Writer William Allen White (more on this famous Kansan later in the day) used royalties from the obituary for his daughter to create this park as a tribute to her. Designed by Harr and Harr of Kansas City (known for their work on The Plaza), the park is a beautiful, natural site with disc golf, picnic tables, horseshoe pits and a lake. The park’s amphitheater and Monkey Island building (no longer used to house monkeys) were built in the 1930s by WPA laborers who earned 40 cents an hour to create these enduring structures.

10:00 a.m. Downtown Emporia shops are opening for the day. There are several original stores within walking distance, and you will want to choose from your interests. Ellen Plumb’s Books is a must for bookworms; the owner knows her stock and knows great reads … plus there is coffee on hand. Paper Moon Antiques is another delightful find. A small shop with not many open spaces, it features salvaged lighting, Victorian

Noon Go to Amanda’s Bakery & Cafe for fresh homemade bread and soup. For dessert, try the hot and gooey Whoopie Pie. 1:00 p.m. It’s time to get back to William Allen White, a key figure in Emporia’s—and the state’s—history. You can explore the legacy of this original Kansan by visiting his home, Red Rocks, a state historic site. White’s essay “What Is the Matter with Kansas?” propelled him to national fame as the editor and owner of the Emporia Gazette in the 1890s. He went on to become a leading progressive voice who also championed small-town life. A friend of Teddy Roosevelt, White ran for governor in the 1920s with the intention of getting rid of the KKK in Kansas. While he didn’t win the election, White’s campaign helped spur Kansas to became the first state to outlaw the Klan. White’s house, administered by the Kansas State Historical Society, looks much as it did when he lived there and includes many original items. An art fair is held on the grounds during the Dirty Kanza weekend.

3:00 p.m. Consider visiting one or touring all the city’s monuments to war veterans. Emporia honors America’s veterans with an All-Veterans Memorial, a Civil War Veterans Monument, a Hispanic American World War II Veterans Monument, a Spanish-American War Memorial and a memorial to student and alumni veterans of Emporia State University.

The Emporia CVB has a full listing of locations and hours for each memorial. visitemporia.com

4:30 p.m. Return downtown to the finish line where riders in the shorter racers have been arriving and the party is in full swing. Commercial Street is closed to traffic, and you’ll be able to find a wide variety of food and drink vendors, including Free State Brewing and the Granada Theater, who partner to put on a beer garden (and to serve a special brew, the Dirty Kanza Kolsch). There is also a climbing wall, inflatables and a lot of good people-watching. Stay around for dinner and the after-race party with musical performances that go until midnight.

SUNDAY 10:00 a.m. Start a bit later and grab a light breakfast before heading over to the David Traylor Zoo. It is a smaller park, but fully accredited by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums and dedicated to the well-being of its animals, which include bison, lemurs, pumas, bald eagles and more. Note: If you are traveling with a group that would consider the zoo the primary attraction, consider making an earlier stop by the grounds at Friday, 7 p.m. when the zoo screens a free outdoor showing of the animated 2016 family film The Wild Life.

1:00 p.m. Before leaving town, you have one big choice to make—which Emporia burger joint to visit. Emporia seems evenly divided on its pick for the top burger place. Jay’s offers satisfying traditional burgers with soft-serve ice cream while you wait; Do-B’s offers burgers with toppings such as pastrami, teriyaki sauce or creole mustard. Either one will be a worthy send-off.

31 SUMMER 2017

furniture and glassware. Finally, Cowgirl Boutique is another fun visit—trendy, funky clothes and accessories.

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taste of Kansas

TASTE OF KANSAS

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Bikes and

Breakfast

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32

Buckle your helmet and come hungry to one of several Kansas motorcycle meet-ups

Doug Schoemaker, a road captain with the Prairiethunder chapter of the Harley Owners Group in Wichita, displays his patches at the March Cassoday Bike Run.

By Lou Ann Thomas

Photography by Pitts Photography

Cassoday, located in the heart of the Flint Hills, welcomes bikers from across the state. Thousands of motorcyclists gather in Cassoday for food and camaraderie.

More than 25 years ago, the owner of Cassoday Café kept her doors open with the promise of 30 bikers to stop in for breakfast, thus beginning the Cassoday Bike Run. Today, the Cassoday Bike Run brings in thousands of motorcyclists monthly.

“Cassoday is uniquely situated with several ways in and out, so bikers can ride in on one route and out another.”

–GENE SHANNON, president of the Cassoday Business Organization.

For the Cassoday event, location is the biggest draw. Cassoday sits at the confluence of several scenic roads frequented by bikers.

Located along the Flint Hills National Scenic Byway at the southern end of Highway 177, the town also can be found just off I-35. And First Street, out of Newton to the west, is paved the entire way to Cassoday.

“The object is to ride, and bikers will use any reason to do that,” Shannon says.

“Cassoday is uniquely situated with several ways in and out, so bikers can ride in on one route and out another.”

The Cassoday Bike Run Breakfast has become one of the largest one-day motorcycle rallies in the country. The ride-in also draws food trucks and vendors who serve up barbeque, breakfast burritos, root beer floats and motorcycle-related accessories and apparel, and some local organizations raise money through food sales as well. From May to September there is also live entertainment.

The Cassoday Business Organization rents spaces to vendors and provides port-a-potties and other needed services. Any funds left over at the end of the year go to community improvement. In past years, the group has purchased Christmas decorations for the town and made donations to the park, the senior center and the volunteer fire department.

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ne thing is certain—bikers love bikes.

They love everything about them: riding them, talking about them and looking at them. Bikers also love breakfast, especially when accompanied by a scenic ride and more bikes.

The Cassoday Bike Run Breakfast, one of several biker and breakfast events in Kansas, has been offering the biking community a place to ride, eat, meet and greet for more than 25 years. The event began in 1991 when a group from the Christian Biker Association in Wichita stopped at the Cassoday Café on a Sunday ride. They enjoyed the relaxing pause and meal in the middle of the Flint Hills so much that they asked the café owner at the time if she would stay open a few hours on Sunday so others could ride in for breakfast.

With a guarantee of at least 30 hungry riders, she agreed, and so began the Cassoday Bike Run. Since then, the event, on the first Sunday of the month from March through November, has grown to include hundreds of motorcyclists riding in from all over Kansas and surrounding states. It’s coordinated by the Cassoday Business Organization.

“Everyone loves riding through the Flint Hills,” Gene Shannon, president of the Cassoday Business Organization, says. “We’ve had bikes come in from Oklahoma, Iowa, Nebraska and Missouri.”

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Motorcycle enthusiasts from the region ride through Cassoday once a month from March through November.

taste of Kansas

BREAKFAST BURRITOS

Fuel up before heading out INGREDIENTS • 2 strips of bacon • 3 eggs • 1 tablespoon water • 2 tortillas OPTIONAL TOPPINGS • Salsa • Pico de gallo • Sour cream • Shredded cheddar cheese • Guacamole • Cilantro • Green onion

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Heat skillet, cook bacon to desired crisp.

2. Remove bacon from pan, let cool.

3. In a bowl, whisk eggs and a tablespoon of water together. Pour egg mixture in skillet and stir continuously until cooked through.

4. Warm tortillas.

5. Place desired amount of eggs in the center of each tortilla.

6. Crumble the bacon strips and sprinkle on top of eggs.

7. Add preferred toppings.

8. Wrap the tortilla and enjoy!

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For more information on these events or to locate other biker events in Kansas: CASSODAY cassodaybikerun.org BEAUMONT beaumonthotelks.com/biker-weekends POTWIN Potwin Bike Run—Facebook PEABODY Peabody Cruise—Facebook To find biker events throughout the state cyclefish.com

“We’re not in it to make money, so we try to give back to our community,” Shannon says.

Bikers begin arriving in Cassoday early in the morning, shortly after sunrise. After 7:30 a.m., only bikes are allowed on the streets.

“Motorcycle people want to ride, but they like to have a destination point,” says Randy Wells, a biker from El Dorado and former vendor at the bike-in. “Cassoday is centrally located in the Flint Hills, so it’s a great spot to ride to and take a break. It’s easy to get to from just about every direction and all routes in and out are great rides.”

On sun-filled Sundays, thousands of bikers show up for the ride in.

“It’s just a bunch of people having fun,” Rocky Henneberg, a biker from Topeka, says. And a big part of that fun is meeting other bikers.

Henneberg says when they are all dressed up in their leathers, everyone simply becomes a fellow biker and other labels fall away.

“I can talk to a motorcyclist and I won’t know if they are a doctor or a homeless person,” Henneberg says. “We cut down those barriers because of the motorcycle and all of us become the same.”

Two other Butler County towns now host their own “bikes and breakfast Sundays.” The second Sunday of the month, bikers can head to Potwin and the shade of Community Park between 8 a.m. and 2 p.m. for a “bikes and hot rods” gathering. The city sponsors the event, and several community service organizations, such as the Lions Club and volunteer fire department, offer breakfast and lunch. Other vendors sell merchandise.

Beaumont also now hosts a bike ride-in on the first and fourth Sundays between April and October. The Beaumont Hotel serves as a meeting point for this event and offers a breakfast and lunch buffet.

Peabody hosts the Peabody Cruise on the fourth Sunday of the month, from April through October. The event runs from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. and features vendors and live music.

In addition to these ongoing biker events, Kansas hosts a number of other ride-ins and gatherings, so get your bike fired up and hit the road.

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37

PHOTOGRAPH Deborah Walker

38 |

Cyclists and Bikers There are few better ways to explore the state during the summer than a two-wheel journey— with or without a motor—on a route chosen to match your interests

46 |

All-Terrain Kansas From sand dunes to river bottoms, parks across the state offer ATV enthusiasts unique trails and thrills.

SUMMER 2017

FEATURES 52 |

Let’s Ride, Again Kansas accelerates its motorcycle love affair at bikethemed museums across the state

CyclistsB Gretchen Wisby races her bicycle outside of Hutchinson.

Story by Kim Gronniger

Photography by Deborah Walker

There are few better ways to explore the state during the summer than a two-wheel journey—with or without a motor— on a route chosen to match your interests

Bikers Thomas Latimer and Tina Kirkpatrick ride their motorcycle on a rural road in central Kansas.

Spacious skies, prairie breezes KANSAS! MAGAZINE

and post-ride breaks for beer or burgers beckon bikers to explore Kansas highways and byways, especially during the summer. Whether you ride a bike or motorcycle, a universal sense of freedom permeates every adventure.

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The Bikers

“There’s a sense of absolute freedom in riding a motorcycle, and it gets the tension out of your system,” says Overland Park resident Dick Grove. Founder and president of public relations firm Ink Inc., Grove relocated his business from the San Francisco Bay Area in part because he could ride his motorcycle more easily across Kansas than California. He annually completes two or three long rides in various parts of the country, but he loves to ride through the Flint Hills and the southeast corner of Kansas, particularly along U.S. Route 160.

Those routes are well-known to Larry Denver, who works part time at City Cycle Sales Inc. in Junction City and got his first motor scooter in 1949.

Denver raced motorcycles, “the most fun” he’s had in his life, before injuries and an ultimatum from his wife prompted him to stop. His wife did join him for a series of annual 3,000-mile treks, one of Denver’s favorite trips. In Kansas, he recommends exploring Spillway State Park in Manhattan, meandering toward the Kansas Motorcycle Museum in Marquette and participating in the Cassoday Bike Run, a motorcycle rally that occurs the first Sunday of every month March through October.

“When you’re riding a motorcycle, you feel and smell different things,” Denver says. “It’s very gratifying to experience the elements.”

3 Great Motorcycle Routes Name: Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway Length: 42 miles (one way) Route: From Medicine Lodge to the junction of U.S. 160 and U.S. 183 at Coldwater Highlights: Pheasant, deer, turkeys and other wildlife populate a diverse landscape of canyons, caves, hills, rock formations and wildflowers. Before you grab a beer at the end of the road, take a break in Medicine Lodge and tour the Carry Nation Home, which displays the internationally known teetotaler’s artifacts. travelks.com/ksbyways/gypsumhills; travelks.com (then search for “Carry Nation Home Stockade”) Name: Flint Hills National Scenic Byway Length: 47 miles (one way)

Name: Dodge City runs Length: 50 miles (one way) Route: Various, including the US-400 from Dodge City to Greensburg Highlights: Dodge City is the starting point for several fun day trips catering to enthusiasts interested in the area’s gunslinger lore or tornado heritage, including a route that takes riders to Greensburg to marvel at two claims to fame— the world’s largest hand-dug well and the world leader in buildings with LEED Platinum certification per capita. Contact Dodge City CVB for recommendations on other round-trip motorcycle routes: visitdodgecity.org

Meagan Melland takes a rest from riding her bike in central Kansas.

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Highlights: The year-round beauty of the Flint Hills makes this grass-flanked stretch connecting the towns of Council Grove, Cottonwood Falls and Strong City a perennial favorite for motorcyclists. The majestic tallgrass prairie looks much as it did centuries ago, and the towns offer diversions for dining, antiquing and experiencing historic venues like the Kaw National Heritage Park and Kaw Mission State Historic Site and Museum. travelks.com/ksbyways/flint-hills

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Route: Kansas Highway 177 between Cassoday and Council Grove

3 Great Mountain Bike Routes Name: MacLennan Park

Name: Switchgrass Mountain Bike Trail

Length: 2.7 miles and various

Name: Kanopolis Trails Length: 25 miles

Length: 22 miles Route: Various pathways on MacLennan Park grounds in Topeka Highlights: The beautiful 244-acre park next to the Governor’s Mansion in Topeka features trails that wind around ponds and through hilly woodlands abundant with wildlife. The area features a 2.7-mile limestone trail adjacent to the Kansas River, a series of single-track dirt trails and three mountain bike trails.

Route: On the grounds of Wilson Lake State Park Highlights: Rated by the International Mountain Bicycling Association as “Epic,” this trail features several stacked loops on mostly moderate routes, but with a few steep climbs and wonderful lake views throughout.

From left, bicyclists Kath Helfrich, Gretchen Wisby and Travis Tesone ride with a cycling group on the weekend.

Route: Various routes on grounds of Lake Kanopolis State Park Highlights: The original state park of Kansas features miles of looping trails that take riders through Red Rock Canyon, over high prairie and across several water crossings. Cyclists can also check out Mushroom Rock, one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Geography, located on the Prairie Trail Scenic Byway on an approximately 12-mile route north of the Kanopolis trails.

PLUS! There are several wonderful mixed-use trails for bikes, such as the Flint Hills Trail, the Prairie Spirit Trail and other rails to trails routes. Read more about these great routes at travelks.com

3 Great Cycling Routes (Moderate Difficulty) Name: Arkansas River Hike and Bike Trail

For more motorcycle, mountain bike and cycling route suggestions, go online at travelks.com, choose the “Explore Map” tab and search the state by “Motorcyclist” profile or “Cyclist” profile.

Name: Dover Run

Name: Wichita Bike Paths

Length: 20 miles (round trip)

Length: 100 miles

Route: Topeka to Dover and back along Kansas Highway 4 and SW Glick Rd

Route: Various locations in Wichita

Length: 4–6 miles (one way) Route: Starting in Great Bend, this relatively easy but scenic trail follows the Arkansas River to the south of town.

Highlights: A quick route, ideal for families, the trail offers a chance to enjoy the river scenery and wildlife while remaining close to the city for after-trail treats. travelks.com (then enter “Arkansas River Hike and Bike Trail” in search bar); visitgreatbend.com

Highlights: A moderate route of hills and back roads at the northeastern edge of the Flint Hills, the route should include an obligatory check-in at Dover’s Sommerset Hall Café for a slice of the venue’s legendary pies. sommersethallcafe.com

Highlights: A series of urban routes, including the 14mile Arkansas River Run, these dedicated pathways bring riders through beautiful river regions and by attractions such as the Sedgwick County Zoo. gowichita.gov (and enter “bicycle path map” in the search bar)

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Growing up in Topeka in a one-car household, Libby Ensley Deiter relied on her bike to get her to summer activities. While working as the Shawnee County election commissioner, she would ride to work, taking “different paths depending on mood and weather.”

Now a magistrate judge living in Sabetha, Deiter has gone on to ride her road bike in numerous organized rides in Kansas and other states. Bike Across Kansas and the Cottonwood 200 are among her many favorites, as is a 72-mile course starting in Sabetha that was established by her late husband.

“Bicycling is a great release, and it’s fun to be outside with other people,” says Deiter, whose favorite ride length is a metric century (62.37 miles). “When I go bicycling, I’m not thinking about my mortgage or electric bill or troubles at work. I’m just thinking about bicycling.”

As a newspaper carrier and college student, Keith Walberg viewed his bike as efficient transportation until he decided to ride for an hour just for fun. Now he is a competitive cyclist who participates in races throughout the Midwest.

“Biking is one of the few sports that lets you glide, and it’s easy on your knees, hips and joints,” says Walberg. “It gets you outside and out of town to see places most people don’t. And it’s great to get home after riding 50 to 100 miles and feel good that you burned enough calories that you can eat a chocolate cake.”

Walberg, a Topeka filmmaker, discovered the allure of riding on gravel roads a few years ago and enjoys participating in the Dirty Kanza 200, a gravel ride that draws more than 2,000 people from all over the world to cycle through the Flint Hills. His wife, Catherine, a Topeka attorney, began cycling as a college exchange student in France, which led to a lifelong affinity for the sport. A member of a Kansas City competitive team, she has won national championships and a world championship and participated in Olympic trials. These days, she mentors others and enjoys companionship and scenery.

“Kansas is an undiscovered cycling mecca,” Catherine says. “In 5 or 10 minutes, you can be on an open road seeing beautiful vistas, and the wind and other elements make it challenging. You can have animated discussions with other riders or enjoy your own zen moments seeing everything.”

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The Cyclists

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Story by Chelsey Crawford Photos by Bill Stephens

ansas may not have the mountain terrain that ATV riders from other states are familiar with, but it does have several riding parks that offer perks for everyone. From beginners to advanced riders, forest trails to sand dunes, the Sunflower State has many places to hit the throttle and go for a ride.

All-terrain vehicles, or ATVs, were manufactured first by Honda in 1968. Originally, the sporting vehicle had only three wheels, but in 1987 a safer four-wheeled concept was introduced.

ATVs became popular with ranchers and farmers. Then a growing interest emerged for using the vehicle for off-road adventures and has led to a whole community of ATV enthusiasts.

Here’s where you can find ATV trails unique to Kansas’ landscape, and whether you are planning a leisurely day of riding and enjoying nature or are seeking an adrenaline-packed heart pounding day full of adventure, you can definitely find it in any area of the state.

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KANSAS! MAGAZINE

School Creek ORV Area, Milford Lake

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School Creek Park borders the picturesque western shores of Milford Lake, the largest man-made lake in Kansas. At one time a large rock quarry, this is home to some of the best ORV/ATV trails in Eastern Kansas. Almost 300 acres of public land are open year-round for beginner to expert riders. Packed with a variety of terrains, the trails at School Creek entertain riders with dirt and sand hills, rocky areas, puddles of mud, steep embankments, and winding forest or tall-grass trails.

Maintained by the Army Corps of Engineers, School Creek provides a large staging area and easy access from the country roads. There is no camping allowed in the ORV area, but just south lies primitive camping grounds with a small boat ramp and impressive scenic views of the lake.

“In the summer this place can get pretty full, so you need to be careful,” says Richard Williams. He and his wife, Edna, are regulars to the area. Married for 48 years, they got their first 4-wheelers about 20 years ago after moving to their farm by Junction City.

“This is a very fun and convenient place to go and spend some quality family time,” Richard says. The two often visit with their daughter Dena Huff and her family. Dena’s husband, Dane, and two sons Talon (10) and Traxton (6) ride motocross bikes instead of 4-wheelers, but since the trails are so versatile they can be used for both.

“It’s great because we can all ride together, the boys riding their dirt bikes and us on the ATVs,” Dena says. “Some of the trails can get pretty narrow and have some erosion and roots, so those are better for the bikes. But there a lot of trails for both and so much to do for everyone.”

Dena says she is the “designated photographer” on these outings. And the picture opportunities are plentiful along the sandy beach and water. In winter, visitors can likely spot bald eagles. In the summer, there is great fishing by the camping area, and ORV-area visitors bring not only their 4-wheelers and dirt bikes but also their jet skis to the cove.

The ORV area is open from 8 a.m. until sunset and does not allow side-by-side vehicles.

Venango ATV Area, Kanopolis Lake For a less challenging, smaller ATV riding option, Venango Park ATV Area is the place. Better suited for younger riders and beginners, these five acres of sandy trails and small hills are the perfect place to spend a fun day of riding.

Located just north of the Kanopolis Lake Dam in the Smoky Hill region of Kansas, Venango Park is one of the most popular areas at Kanopolis Lake to spend the warmer months.

“Growing up my parents had a cabin in Venango, so I spent every weekend ATVing at the trails,” says Jara Keehner of Salina.

“I don’t ride as much as I used to, but I do have lots of friends that frequently take their young children out there. And actually it’s great for any type of rider if you’re just looking for a low-key, good time.”

The rider-friendly trails are wide and sandy, with a few small jumps, a touch of mud and some flat areas surrounded by evergreens and tall prairie grasses. Managed by the Army Corps of Engineers, the area is well cared for. A moderate staging area is easily accessible and located directly off one of the park’s paved roads. There is no camping allowed in the ATV area, but the designated Venango campgrounds, equipped with RV hookups, are just a short walk away.

“Venango, and actually all of Kanopolis Lake, is a great place to go,” Keehner says. “The beaches are nice, great wildlife viewing, lots of fishing and boating, and also top-notch hiking opportunities.”

With Horse Thief Canyon right down the road, horseback riding is just as popular as ATV riding in Venango. In rocky areas by the shore, visitors can search for marine fossils and rocks dated to the Cretaceous period. In early evening, deer leisurely wander the park. Be sure to check out the Sandy Shore camping site to see a dazzling sunset over the lake.

The Venango Park ATV area is open year-round from 8 a.m. until sunset. Side-by-side vehicles are not permitted.

Syracuse Sand Dunes, Syracuse On the western border of Kansas, 16 miles from the Colorado state line, lie the sweeping sand hills of Syracuse. Syracuse Sand Dunes, a privately owned city park, spans more than 1,500 acres

Richard Williams, Junction City, takes his ATV out for a ride at School Creek Off-Road Vehicle Area. School Creek’s 300 acres provide public ATV trails and ample space to roam atop four-wheeled vehicles.

Richard and Edna Williams, Junction City, explore School Creek Off-Road Vehicle Area. The Williamses have been riding ATVs for 20 years and often ride with their children and grandchildren.

of land brimming with riding opportunities year-round for visitors from all over Kansas and surrounding states.

This natural stretch of open space, marked by the Arkansas River, is conveniently located just one mile south of the small town of Syracuse. The area boasts desert-like grasses and shrubs, steep hills, large and small jumps, drop offs, and magnificent dunes, providing all riders with plenty of terrain and thrilling ground to cover. The Dunes also allow night riding.

“We offer a very unique experience for the whole family,” says Brian Bloyd, park manager and city administrator. “Besides riding, we also have a 50-acre swimming and fishing pond stocked with bass, catfish, bluegill, crappie, and trout. There is camping [hookups or dry], and in the summer the pond is popular for kayaks, paddle boats and small fishing boats.”

The Sand Dunes have a calendar full of events including poker runs, car shows, monster truck rallies and rodeos. So either for an adrenaline-fueled day or a fun-filled weekend getaway, the Syracuse Sand Dunes are a must for all ATV enthusiasts. Drivers must purchase an off-road permit at Syracuse City Hall before entering the park.

Enjoying the trails in Great Bend is easy with a variety of terrains to tackle and the opportunity to see all the wildlife the river has to offer. Trails of dirt and sand weave through trees and tall grasses, providing easy areas for beginners to familiarize themselves with the ATV skills they need. For the more knowledgeable and experienced riders, there are many places to drive with increased speeds and get a little air on some fun jumps.

“There is a lot for everyone here on these trails, definitely a great place to ride ATVs, or whatever your vehicle may be,” Younger says. “When the river is down, you can ride all the way to Larned and back in the river bottoms. It’s about 25 miles one way.”

The Great Bend trails are open all year and all hours.

Kansas’ Hidden ATV Gems • A trail along the Republican River, just north of Concordia, has a great riverside trail that follows the river for miles.

• In Eastern Kansas, Perry Lake’s trails and ATV area offer riding, lake activities, and camping.

• The Kansas Badlands track along the Southern border of Kansas and Oklahoma has some great ATV racetracks and riding areas for a more organized track setting.

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Following the Arkansas River back to Central Kansas, riders come from all around to hit the trails, banks and riverbeds in Great Bend. One of the best places for some serious mudding and river riding, these trails are suitable for riders of all experience levels and provide hours of entertainment. After ATVers finish whipping through the water and mud of the river bottoms, there are miles of twisty trails that give them a chance to dry off.

“It’s just a really good place to get away from it all and to enjoy the outdoors,” says veteran rider Bob Younger of Great Bend. “The trails here are a lot of fun, I’ve ridden them since 1987 when I moved here to go school. The wildlife is great, I’ve seen deer, owls, snakes, fish, turtles, cranes, duck, geese and fox.”

There are two entrances to the trails depending on how often you want to ride the area. The Central Kansas Off Road Association (CKORA) is a non-profit group that has a private entrance for members and offers a primitive camping area. The public entrance is at 10th and Washington streets. Visitors must head south to Stone Lake and follow the road along the lake to get to the parking entrance. The city requests only that riders stay off the dike and roads, stay on the trails and pick up after themselves.

KANSAS! MAGAZINE

Great Bend, Kansas

Story by Amber Fraley

Kansas accelerates its motorcycle love affair at bike-themed museums across the state

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ansas has a history of embracing the motorcycle, whether it be racing, riding or building. Recently, however, that enthusiasm has blossomed into a near fervor that’s capturing the public’s imagination. There are now four motorcycle museums across Kansas, and all of them offer impressive collections that are bringing in visitors. In every case, the collections have been cultivated by hardworking Kansans with the support of volunteers who simply want to share their obsessions with us. Even if you don’t think you have an interest in choppers, cruisers, crotch rockets, fatheads, flatheads, panheads or scooters, these museums might challenge any preconceived notions of what it means to ride. And for those who are already fans, it’s definitely time to hit the road.

Evel Knievel Museum, Historic Harley Davidson In the world of motorcycle daredevils, there is no larger legend than Evel Knievel, the 1970s stars-and-stripes-wearing showman whose televised jumps and stunts made him a household name. And now,

PHOTOGRAPHS KATIE MOORE

some of the most important high-powered machinery associated with Evel Knievel will be displayed in Topeka at the state’s newest motorcycle museum (set to open this summer).

The museum was made possible by another set of Harleyloving folks who have had a shop in Topeka since 1949. Mike Patterson, the current owner, grew up in that shop when it was owned by his grandfather, and he later took over the family business from his uncle Denny. For the last 20 years, the shop has been located at a spacious, historic limestone building that also houses a barbecue restaurant and Yesterday’s Museum, a vintage motorcycle museum featuring more than 30 historic motorcycles.

A few years ago, Patterson was contacted by Lathan McKay, a professional skateboarder who had just acquired “Big Red,” Evel Knievel’s 1974 Mack FS cabover. This vehicle had been Knievel’s touring home and was a self-contained wonder for its time, with room for Knievel’s bikes and uniforms, a living quarters and even a telephone and dressing room. McKay hoped to restore it.

He brought the truck to Historic Harley Davidson, and Patterson’s crew restored the 63-foot-long rusting behemoth back to its former red-white-and-blue glory.

It was a huge undertaking.

“There were over 90 different individuals and businesses involved with the restoration of the Mack Truck,” says Patterson. For a couple of years, the restored Mack Truck toured the country once again, showing off Knievel’s bikes and artifacts. Eventually, though, McKay realized that the touring was taking its toll on the items, and began talks with Patterson that led to creating a permanent home for the Knievel collection.

In order to accommodate all the items, Historic Harley Davidson EVEL KNIEVEL MUSEUM/ built an additional 16 thousand square feet on two levels. In addition HISTORIC HARLEY DAVIDSON’S to Big Red, visitors will be treated to “just about everything that was OWNER MIKE PATTERSON ON of significance to Evel,” says Patterson. While Knievel primarily rode THE RIDE …

Harley Davidsons, he also owned a Norton, a Triumph, a Honda and an American Eagle, all of which are on display with press clippings, videos and numerous other items.

FAVORITE MOTORCYCLE TO RIDE “We have his motorcycles, his leathers, his canes, his Harley-Davidson Road King jewelry, helmets and x-rays,” says Patterson. “The item of biggest significance, perhaps, is the Sky Cycle from the Snake River Canyon FAVORITE MOTORCYCLE ROUTE jump. It’s amazing it’s sitting right here in Topeka. Even when I look IN KANSAS at it, it’s pretty surreal.”

K4 Highway west of Topeka Kansas company Dimensional Innovations has built state-of-theart museum displays to showcase Evel’s numerous broken bones, as ESSENTIAL RIDING ACCESSORY well as a video game where users will be able to pick a Knievel jump “It’s not mandatory, but I usually and motorcycle, as well as the speed of their bike, and height of the wear a helmet.” ramp. Then, they’ll be able to see if they make the jump. But perhaps the most innovative display will be the 4-D Jump Experience.

EVEL KNIEVEL MUSEUM, Wearing three 360-degree cameras, a motorcycle stuntman HISTORIC HARLEY DAVIDSON jumped 16 police cars in downtown Topeka. With that footage, 2047 SW Topeka Blvd., Topeka Dimensional Innovations created a virtual reality experience in 785.234.6174 which museum-goers sit on a motorcycle wearing virtual reality evelknievelmuseum.com goggles. “Wind will blow on you while a great soundtrack from YESTERDAYS MOTORCYCLE MUSEUM, the actual jump plays,” says Patterson. Even though he’s an experienced rider, Patterson is impressed with the realism of the HISTORIC HARLEY DAVIDSON virtual experience. “It’s something that nobody will have anywhere 2047 SW Topeka Blvd., Topeka else. What this museum will do for most people in their 40s, 50s and 785.234.6174 60s is take them back to the 1970s and this wildly popular guy.” historicharley.com

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Kansas Motorcycle Museum The Kansas Motorcycle Museum was opened in 2003 by Marquette’s own dirt track motorcycle racing champ, the late Stan “the man” Engdahl, and some of his friends.

“Stan was quite the character,” says the museum’s treasurer Dixon Johnson. “Everyone on the motorcycle circuit KANSAS MOTORCYCLE knew him. He raced from 1946 to 1993 and was the five-time MUSEUM’S BOARD national champ. He was the sixteen-time champ of Kansas. We MEMBER JAMES have all his trophies, over 600 of them. It’s pretty impressive.”

DECKARD ON THE RIDE …

Now, the Kansas Motorcycle Museum boasts a collection of about 140 motorcycles, old and new, some of which, says Johnson, are quite rare. “We have some really FAVORITE MOTORCYCLES TO unique motorcycles. The oldest is a 1906 Thor.” In addition RIDE: Harleys to a couple dozen motorcycles from the early 1900s, about a third of the collection consists of models from the FAVORITE KANSAS 1930s and 1940s. The museum is also home to a couple of MOTORCYCLE ROUTE: celebrity motorcycles, including the motorcycle ridden by Highway 77 famed racer (and native Kansan) Ken Pressgrove, who was featured in the racing documentary On Any Sunday with ESSENTIAL BIKING ACCESSORY: Steve McQueen. Visitors can also see one of Elvis Presley’s A do-rag motorcycles, and a BMW that board member Jim Oliver rode around the world.

Kansas Motorcycle Museum The Kansas Motorcycle Museum is volunteer-run and 120 N. Washington St. not for profit. The board meets daily during the week at the Marquette museum for what they fondly call a “prayer meeting.” The 785.546.2449 museum has been a rousing success for Marquette, attracting 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon–Sat; visitors from inside and outside the state. “More people from 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Sun out of state than in-state visit this time of year,” says Dixon. ksmotorcyclemuseum.org

PHOTOGRAPHS (LEFT TO RIGHT) JUSTIN LISTER (4), DOUG STREMEL (2)

St. Francis Motorcycle Museum The St. Francis Motorcycle Museum began with a challenge.

Scott Schultz, chairman of the museum board and mayor of St. Francis, explains that professional drag bike rider and motorcycle enthusiast Mike Bahnmaier told the town that if they would provide a building for a motorcycle museum, he’d provide the bikes. The town of less than 1,500 ST. FRANCIS MOTORCYCLE residents managed to raise $350,000 to build a new (but MUSEUM’S SCOTT SCHULTZ retro-looking) building to house Bahnmaier’s collection.

ON THE RIDE …

The museum opened in April 2016 with an impressive permanent exhibition.

“His collection is all American-made,” says Schultz.

FAVORITE BIKE TO RIDE: “So it’s Harleys, Reading Standards, Excelsior, Indian, Ace, 2010 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic Flying Merkel, Yale and Jefferson. His oldest bike is a 1902 Orient.” The group also includes a Cushman from WWII, set FAVORITE KANSAS MOTORCYCLE up with its parachute, which the U.S. deployed from planes ROUTE: during the war. Bahnmaier’s collection was augmented by a Arikaree Breaks in Cheyenne collection from Wayne Lang out of Denver. “He’s more into County the metric bikes, like Hondas and Yamahas,” says Schultz.

The group of diverse and unique machines has brought ESSENTIAL ACCESSORY: the community together in many ways. “It’s really evolved Helmet into a community project, because there are so many people who volunteer their time to be here. If we didn’t have them, it St. Francis Motorcycle Museum wouldn’t work,” says Schultz.

110 E. Washington St. Though the museum has been open only a little over a St. Francis year, it’s had visitors from nearly every state and 15 countries. 785.332.2400 “It’s been a great thing for our small town. We really went 10 a.m.–5 p.m. daily after the wow factor. We definitely shock everyone who stfrancismotorcyclemuseum.org walks in the door.”

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“I grew up in a motorcycle family, and I’ve been riding and collecting for years. I’ve always wanted to do this,” says Kelly Modlin.

By “this,” Modlin means the Twisted Oz Motorcycle Museum in Augusta, which bills itself as the “Home of the Indian Six” and has been open since last spring.

Modlin and his friends Paul Belt and Jerry Ottaway supplied much of the collection themselves. Collectively, that’s a lot of motorcycle knowledge. Jerry, for example, has just turned 80 and worked for years with his father, Herb, a legend in motorcycle circles.

The senior Ottaway is responsible for building TWISTED OZ one of the museum’s MOTORCYCLE biggest attractions, the MUSEUM’S PAUL BELT Indian Super Six, one of only two in the world.

ON THE RIDE …

Modlin lists some of the other rarities on display.

FAVORITE BIKE TO RIDE: “We have a Cyclone Will ride “anything” motorcycle, which is one of twelve in the world. We FAVORITE KANSAS also have the only 1912 MOTORCYCLE ROUTE: Wood motorcycle—it’s not Cambridge to Latham a wooden motorcycle—J.J. Wood built it in 1914, ESSENTIAL ACCESSORY: and they couldn’t get any Saddlebags, “to keep all backers, moneywise, to take my stuff in” that any further. That’s a prize to us.”

Twisted Oz Motorcycle A point of pride for Museum Modlin is that most of the 601 W. 7 St. motorcycles in the Twisted Augusta Oz museum are fully 316.977.9257 functional. “Our museum is a 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon-Sun running, riding museum. We twistedoz.com have a shop in the museum where people can see us building our projects for the museum’s use.”

So far, the museum has been a great success, with visitors from nearly every state and 12 countries. In fact, it’s been so successful that Modlin recently has added a second building to double the museum’s size.

Modlin is also proud to be able to contribute to the Kansas motorcycle culture.

He says that having five motorcycle museums “is going to make us a destination for people in the motorcycle world.”

PHOTOGRAPHS TIM DAVIS

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Twisted Oz Motorcycle Museum

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LEAVENWORTH COUNTY | Kelly Midgley

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