Harvey Nichols SS20 Magazine by HarveyNichols

SPRING/SUMMER 2020

ST YLED BY ME Dress to impress (yourself) • O U T THERE Lamé and Lycra go to the beach PL AN C What the Marni dynasty did next • FRÈRE Hip-hop & Hollywood royalty’s go-to tailor TH O U G HT FO R FO O D OXO Tower’s journey towards sustainability

4 6 L E G S F OR DAYS

CONTENTS

Raven Smith – a champion of shorts – looks forward to long, hot days and leg liberation

15 RU N WAY R E P ORT

4 8 ST Y L E D BY M E

From do-it-all bags to experimental tailoring, meet the looks you’ll be seeing everywhere

In their own words: meet a group of creatives using fashion to express themselves unapologetically

18 WA ST E NO T

5 6 OU T T H E R E

Shout out to six clothing brands showing love for the planet and its people

Summer forecast: sunny, with a chance of exuberance. Here’s to lamé and paillettes, gowns and taffeta...

2 0 ODE T O JOY

6 6 SU I T YOU R SE L F

Issey Miyake’s SS20 collection fuses organic shapes with technical fabrics and theatricality

There’s no wrong time to wear bold two-pieces, retro prints and clean-cut tailoring

2 1 T H E HOL IDAY SHOP

74 E A SY ON T H E E Y E S

If packing were a game, our five resortwear favourites would help you win it

Bombshell lashes and embellished lids dazzled the catwalks back in September. They’re set to shine again this summer

22 A K I N D OF H USH

76 BE AU T Y F I X

As Copenhagen cements its position on the fashion calendar, designers switch from saccharine to subdued

The exclusives, launches and innovations on Beauty Editor Chiara Merullo’s radar

2 4 M AT E R I A L WOR L D

78 A L L A B OU T RO SI E

SS20 bags & footwear play with textures, from woven raffia and airy rattan to raw canvas and butter-soft leather

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is the happy, healthy and very glowy new ambassador for Hourglass

2 8 RU L E BR E A K E R

8 0 F I N D YOU R FACI A L

From Marni’s Castiglioni clan comes Plan C, the new(ish) label flipping Milanese style on its head

Which is the best treatment for a quick skin fix? Antiageing? Beauty Editor Chiara Merullo has tried them all

32 P OI N T BL A N K

82 ST R A NG E M AG IC

Worn long and sleek or short and sweet, head-to-toe white is strictly for belles with balls

Perfumer Geza Schoen has an uncanny instinct for finding single ingredients and making them sing

3 4 M E N ’ S RU N WAY R E P ORT

8 4 M A DE I N T H E SH A DE

Find your swagger in SS20’s standout styles – from tailored separates in soft pastels to look-at-me prints

Our edit of summer-skin power players is all about getting that guilt-free glow

37 PL AY T H E F I E L D

8 8 T HOUG H T F OR F O OD

Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrated the 10th anniversary of his label with a homecoming like no other

OXO Tower Restaurant’s Andrea Zick and her team are doing their bit in the journey towards sustainability

3 8 B OL D MOV E S

92 F O OD N E WS

No longer content with standing in the shadows, men’s street style is embracing the magpie mood

Easter sweets, and Patrón x Harvey Nichols’ exclusive limited-edition, single-cask tequila

4 1 T H E A S CE N T OF M A N

9 6 G R E E K S BE A R I NG G IF TS

Call it the Harry Styles effect. Men are upping their aesthetic game and wearing more jewellery than ever

Euphoria is that rare short-haul retreat that gives guests the tools to find their own balance, both mind and body

4 3 MON F R È R E

9 8 H I P & H A PPE N I NG

The go-to tailor for Hollywood and hip-hop royalty, Davidson Petit-Frère is a cut above the rest

Just a handful of reasons why Harvey Nichols & OXO Tower Brasserie are the places to be

STYLED BY ME

rends are out. It’s official. Because for something to be ‘in’, something else must be thoroughly ‘out’. And that’s simply off message in our newly responsible fashion industry. Thanks to some inspirational leaders like Anna Wintour, the fashion world is addressing our throwaway culture, calling for a more sustainable attitude from both brands and consumers. She believes that the ‘so last season’ mantra is so last season – and that we should care for our clothes so that they can be worn again and again, even passing them on to the next generation. How refreshing to refocus our fashion lens on craft, creativity and what we actually want to wear this spring, rather than what we’re told we ought. That’s why we’ve dedicated this issue to Styled by Me, a tribute to style mavens who please themselves with their personal style, and inspire us to follow suit in – of course – our very own way.

Styled by Me, p48

ON THE COVER Photographer: Simon Lipman Chloé dress £2,840 and sunglasses £234; Rejina Pyo bag £475; Wald Berlin bracelet £125

Suit Yourself, p66

FASHION

EDITORIAL

PRINT PRODUCTION

Fashion Editors:

Managing Editor: Lisa Hillman

Print Production Executive: Sophie Evans

Luke Ross & Kim Turnbull

Sub-editor: Anna D’Alessio

Shopping Editor: Laura Smith

Womenswear Editor: Mischa Smith

ADVERTISING & MEDIA

Menswear Editor: Dale Marshall

Head of Media: Charmian Colak-Antic

ART

Senior Beauty Editor: Chiara Merullo

Senior Editorial Designer:

Media Manager: Kasia Leonard Media Account Managers: Carrie Brown

Kara Wright

& Estelle Jane-Peter

Media Assistant: Becca Peters

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Balloon Bag, 2020

Spring Summer 2020

1st Floor, Knightsbridge

FA S H I O N

Photograph: Simon Lipman

WOMENSWEAR, SECOND FLOOR, KNIGHTSBRIDGE

Loewe Balloon bag £2,100

ST YLED BY ME Dress for self-expression • PL AN C What the Marni dynasty did next FRÈRE The go-to tailor for Hollywood & hip-hop royalty • O U T THERE Lamé goes to the beach SU IT YO U RSELF Bold menswear for summer and beyond • SPRIN G 2020 The looks we love

CEO, stylish sleuth, or schoolgirl? You decide.

Dress £625

Barbour by Alexachung jacket £300

Dress £1,230

Valet Studio scrunchie £25

Trench £1,450

Malone Souliers mules £445

Kalda heels £320

GIVENCHY

JW ANDERSON

Jacket £2,390 and trousers £890

Blazer £1,710 and shorts £620

Loewe bag £1,450

Trench £2,990

Annoushka necklace £7,400

Wandler bag £560

The hills are alive with shamrock, sage, pine, and acid-house neon lime.

By Far bag £430

Jacket £530 and shorts £325

H2O Fagerholt jumpsuit £315

SHOP IN-STORE OR ONLINE AT HARVEYNICHOLS.COM

Jacket £895

Bottega Veneta sunglasses £285

Dress £2,995

The Mighty Company jacket £810

Dress £1,105

Liya earrings £185

HYKE

STINE GOYA

DION LEE

ERDEM

REJINA PYO

ISABEL MARANT

CHLOÉ Playsuit £1,495

GREEN

Whether military-chic or safari-style, pockets and pleats mean business.

STELLA M C CARTNEY

GREEN

UTILITY

Waistcoat £670 and jumpsuit £875

Givenchy sandals £525

JACQUEMUS

Blazer £955 and trousers £530

Boyy bag £975

JONATHAN SIMKHAI

CHRISTOPHER ESBER

LOEWE Dress £2,600

BURBERRY

I scream, you scream, we all scream for macaroons in peach, pistachio and strawberry.

ALEXANDER M C QUEEN

TAILORING

PASTELS

TAILORING

FASHION

Dress £310

Yuul Yie shoes £295

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Jacket £435

Eudon Choi bag £325

FASHION

RUNWAY REPORT

* TEST PERFORMED ON INGREDIENTS

Vest £350 and bag £1,040

Top £535 and skirt £510

Dress £1,750

Skirt £1,000

Jacket £565

WHITE Clean slate? Maybe, but the new white certainly isn’t just about minimalism. Off-White: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Jacket £820 and skirt £600

NANUSHKA

OFF-WHITE

VISIBLE LIFT * IN ONE DROP

Playsuit £680

A.W.A.K.E. MODE

Jacket £335

LOEWE

JIL SANDER

BY MALENE BIRGER

From the sweetest colours to do-it-all bags and experimental tailoring, meet the looks you’ll be seeing everywhere

Little Liffner bag £370

Soru Jewellery earrings £280

Saint Laurent sunglasses £270

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Miista shoes £225

NEWS

COLLINA STRADA

THE RESTORY Beloved shoes, bags and clothing don’t deserve to be cast aside as soon as they show signs of wear and tear. Now it’s possible to have your prized possessions lovingly refurbished by the best in the business. The Restory’s in-house team of artisans can get your Jimmy Choos as smooth and shiny as they were on your wedding day – then return them to your door.

As well as a brand, Collina Strada is a platform for climate and social awareness. The title of founder Hilary Taymour’s SS20 show was Thank You Very Much for Helping Me – a plea for all of us to be kinder to the planet; she even gave out reusable produce bags. The brand’s offbeat, upcycled garments are an invitation to look inward and be the best version of your stylish self.

Price on request

Dress £535

NINETY PERCENT

WASTE NOT

Vogue called sustainable design “the only kind of design for the future” – and we agree. Shout out to six brands showing love for the planet and its people

CASA RAKI

Launched in London in 2018, Ninety Percent was founded on what co-founder Shafiq Hassan calls “a crazy idea”: to share 90% of its distributed profits with charitable causes and those who make its collections happen. But the best bit? You can choose which charity to benefit by using the unique code on your garment’s care label. And as for the clothes – the well-cut organic cotton and merino staples are built for lasting comfort. Crazy, right? Hooded sweatshirt £135 and sweatpants £120

Casa Raki founder Josefina A. Theo invites you to buy into a lifestyle that is as comfortable as it is ethical. Since 2018, her versatile holidaywear has been made in Portugal, from both natural and recycled fibres, using only sustainable materials and processes. Casa Raki guarantees you and your favourite beachwear a long and happy life. Cape £295

Swimsuit £170 Dress £130

EILEEN FISHER From fair-trade supply chains to organic fibres and non-hazardous dyes, Eileen Fisher doesn’t just uphold sustainable initiatives – the brand champions a vision. It also promotes caring for clothes so they last longer, including washing sweaters by hand in cold water, and mending garments instead of discarding them. As the brand puts it: “At the end of the day, we make stuff. Where it ends up is our responsibility.” Jumpsuit £295

GOOD NEWS

Bikini top and briefs £75 each

Trainers £120

“When you’re small, you gotta fix what you can!” The goal of American brand Good News is to make shoes that give back, one step at a time. Its retro trainers feature rubber soles made from recycled car tyres, ‘eco-lite’ footbeds, and organic cotton uppers. The brand monitors its supply chain to promote fair trade, and donates old stock to refugees and others in need.

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Jumpsuit £2,205

SERIF SUBHEAD FASHION

Dress £1,380

Jacket £1,215, cap £315

ODE TO JOY

THE HOLIDAY SHOP If packing were a game, our five faves would help you win it

COVER TO COVER Designed to flow effortlessly from beach to brunch and beyond, Bird + Knoll’s collections of uber-wearable dresses embody feminine luxury with real multitasking functionality. The brand is exclusive to Harvey Nichols in the UK.

Issey Miyake’s SS20 collection fuses organic shapes with technical fabrics and an exuberant theatricality

nspired by the sky, the sea and dance, the SS20 Issey Miyake womenswear collection is a celebration of volume, colour and movement. The collection – the first by new design director Satoshi Kondo – incorporated references to Japanese stitching and dyeing techniques as well as primitive art and even crosswords. The critically acclaimed catwalk show had models running, walking, dancing and skateboarding in flowing, voluminous jumpsuits, dresses and cagoules. And as with all things Issey Miyake, Kondo’s debut doesn’t exist within a conceptual bubble – his designs are the sorts of fluid, easy-to-wear stand-alones that will become staples not just all summer, but for many seasons to come – a joy forever.

Dress £530

Bird + Knoll dress £410 Fendi sunglasses £279

BIGGER IS BETTER A small accessory with a large impact, sunnies take the top spot in our list of summer staples. Micro shades have dominated recently, but oversized silhouettes – with a 90s square shape – are now back in the driver’s seat.

Souliers Martinez shoes £455

Jumpsuit £2,205

SUMMER PARADISE Gimaguas is the Spanish brand evoking easy-breezy sunny days walking barefoot on the beach. Its bold prints and sensual silhouettes – hello, V-neck one-piece – are loved by influencers including Caroline Brasch Nielsen and Giorgia Tordini.

MISS DO-IT-ALL We have yet another it-bag on our hands courtesy of Instagram’s favourite brand. Cult Gaia has smartened up its act for SS20. The label bid adieu to its bamboo beginnings and created the ultimate day-to-night accessory. We’ll be wearing it all day, every day.

THE HEEL-GOOD FACTOR

Jumpsuit £695

Coat £2,620

Gimaguas swimsuit £95

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Jumpsuit £1,275

Kitten, stiletto, wedge, cone or platform. They say a good heel is hard to find and impossible to forget (right?). For SS20, resort-ready styles are updated with sculptural heels and quirky accents – as seen at Souliers Martinez. Perfect for a daytime stroll in town and a sunset aperitif.

Cult Gaia bag £425

FASHION

Saks Potts coat £1595

STEAL HER STYLE PERNILLE TEISBAEK, STYLIST

A KIND OF HUSH

The Copenhagen label – which has captured the attention of famous extroverts including Cardi B and Kylie Jenner – has lately been ditching sugary shades in favour of full frappé looks and lacquered leather coats in espresso and oat milk. Even Denmark’s most vivid label, Stine Goya, turned down the colour dial for AW20, drawing on the seaweed and moss of artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s ‘Wrapped Coast’ project. “I tried to imagine how, with time, the tech fabrics they used would be beaten, worn and changed by the rough seas,” Goya said. There are plenty of designers still indulging their sweet tooth: Baum und Pferdgarten, for instance, shows no sign of breaking off its affair with pink and periwinkle. But, having attracted the attention of the world with gumdrops and sherbet, the Danes are tiptoeing back towards a more traditionally Nordic palette of pastry-beige, cream, chocolate and burgundy. Low-key, yes – but as delectable as ever.

As Copenhagen cements its position on the fashion calendar, designers switch from saccharine to subdued Words: Mischa Smith

anish fashion is best known for puffy sleeves, odd colour combinations and offbeat pairings (depending on who you ask, the ‘trainers and a frothy frock’ look originated with either Lily Allen or the Danes). However, if recent street style and shows are anything to go by, that could all be changing. Since restrategising in 2017 with new management and a focus on sustainability, Copenhagen Fashion Week has showcased attention-grabbing, saturated fashion that also happens to be wearable and affordable. The city itself is rife with pastel houses and interiors, and the clothes have chimed with the collective love for optimism and escape. “Scandinavian women have been independent and liberated for many years – we dress for our own pleasure,” says Helle Hestehave of Baum und Pferdgarten. Other known colourists and Insta-girl favourites, such as Stine Goya, Brøgger and Saks Potts, have played into this aesthetic, providing street-style catnip in the form of candy-coloured coats, splashy logo tights and mismatched prints. While the city certainly looks toward a bright future as the only Scandi fashion week – Stockholm has been cancelled indefinitely – the clothes have taken a subdued turn. “I think it was time to show a softer version of the Brøgger woman,” said Julie Brøgger on her decision to move away from paintbox brights. “A more muted palette and downsized prints offer that.” Other designers have followed suit. For AW20 we can look forward to desert neutrals, head-totoe black and coffee shades, as seen at Saks Potts’ presentation, held in designer Barbara Potts’ home.

Brøgger dress £595

SOFT POWER Brøgger Brøgger jacket jacket £XXXX£640 and trousers £XXX

An early champion of what’s been dubbed ‘Instagram beige’, Pernille Teisbaek personifies Scandi style. She has been unwavering in her commitment to minimalism, avoiding trends that other influencers have tried on for size (eclectic prints, athleisure and colourblocking). It’s her personal style in a fickle and trend-led industry that has earned her legions of fans and, more recently, a collaboration with Italian shoe label Gia Couture. We caught up with the stylist to find out what it takes to be her. What do you wear when you’re not feeling confident? I pair my go-to jeans with a blazer and boots. What items will you be investing in this summer? A zebra-print Bottega Veneta bag with a chain strap, more vintage Levi’s, and hopefully also a vintage Hermès Kelly bag. What’s your easy-win styling tip? Less is more. That’s my mantra when it comes to styling myself. So if in doubt, I often go even more minimal with my look.

Baum und Pferdgarten sweater £170

Stine Goya hair clip £40

What are the key features of Scandinavian fashion? The awareness and action that the brands are taking to become more sustainable. How would you describe your personal style? My style is minimal and classic, but always comfortable.

Baum und Pferdgarten jacket £190 and trousers £150

Baum und Pferdgarten jeans £115

H2O Fagerholt coat £425, exclusive to Harvey Nichols

By Malene Birger sweater £280

Gia x Pernille Teisbaek mules £300

Liya necklace £135

Gia x Pernille Teisbaek mules £260

FASHION

SERIF SUBHEAD

This page, from top: Mark Cross bag £1,920; Hunting Season bag £580; Rejina Pyo shoes £425; Loewe bag £775; Miista shoes £225; Dragon Diffusion bag £375; Malone Souliers mules £460; opposite page, from top: Souliers Martinez shoes £365; Elleme bag £335; Rylan bag £495; Aranaz bag £280; Salondeju shoes £370; Rejina Pyo bag £295

MATERIAL WORLD For SS20, bags & footwear play with textures – from woven raffia and airy rattan to raw canvas and butter-soft leather Photographer: David Marquez; Stylist: Laura Smith; Product Stylist: Maya Linhares-Marx

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A luxury cult phenomenon that revolutionised the world of modern perfumery.

Molecule 05 is somewhere between walking through sun-warmed pine trees and being wrapped in a cashmere blanket. Summer in a bottle. EM05 Exclusive preview at Harvey Nichols from March 19th

INTERVIEW

SERIF SUBHEAD

RULE BREAKER

Born from fashion royalty – Marni’s Castiglioni clan – Plan C is the new(ish) Italian label flipping Milanese style on its head with quirky silhouettes and unexpected colours Words: Mischa Smith; Photographer: Jack Margerison

hen Consuelo Castiglioni announced that she would be departing Marni in 2017, creative, intelligent women everywhere let out a cry of despair. Launching the brand with her husband Gianni in 1994, she built a fashion powerhouse with a distinctive, offbeat, arty style that spoke to the kind of women who wanted to look interesting rather than safe or sexy. But then there was a collective sigh of relief as Consuelo’s daughter, Carolina Castiglioni – who was Director of Special Projects at Marni – decided to launch her own label: Plan C. “We thought it was a pity to leave all the knowledge, learnings and contacts behind,” Carolina says of her decision to return to fashion in 2018. “We decided to start following our own rules.” The ‘rules’, according to the Castiglionis, are made to be broken. Like Marni, Plan

C subverts the cliché that Milanese style is all about rigorous eleganza. Colours are unexpected, silhouettes sculptural. Chunky sandals are worn with thick socks (naturally). It’s odd, in the best possible way. “Milanese style is super classic and elegant,” Carolina says. “But for me, a bit boring. I always lived in another kind of aesthetic.” Carolina’s home – a ceramic tile factory in a former life – is her moodboard writ large. Mid-century furniture and modern art jostle for space with vintage finds unearthed at markets and seasoned with curiosities including miniature Vitra chairs, matchboxes and metal birds. Cocktailmaking paraphernalia reveals that this is a home with an appreciation for la dolce vita. In a photo on the bookshelves, Carolina’s children wear T-shirts emblazoned with the words “Do more of what makes you happy”. It could be a Castiglioni motto. “We’re a family of collectors. I like to mix

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Castiglioni in her Milan home. Plan C jacket £1,780, T-shirt £170 and skirt £710

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SERIF SUBHEAD

SERIF SUBHEAD Left: Plan C sweatshirt £350 and skirt £740; bottom left: Plan C sandals £450; below: Castiglioni’s collection of Vitra miniatures

“I have to be comfortable, but always special”

different things, and experiment mixing new with vintage... it’s very personal,” says the designer of her interior style – an eclecticism that is echoed in her collections. “I design what I like,” she says. “It’s a reflection of what I’m wearing.” Today that means a sunshine-yellow sweatshirt featuring a print of her own daughter and a friend at ballet practice, and a billowing skirt that almost swallows her. Carolina’s triumph is always to infuse her designs – however exuberant or quirky – with a sense of ease. Like Marni, Plan C is also a family affair. Carolina’s father is CEO and her brother, Giovanni, is Head of Operations, helping to run the business out of the palazzo that used to house her grandmother’s fur atelier. Today she shares the space with her sister-in-law’s jewellery line, Aliita.

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Carolina is also continuing the family tradition of pushing boundaries. “I always try to find a combination of colours that makes people say, ‘No it’s too much’ – but then when they see it they think, Actually it’s nice.” Her current obsession is mixing different shades of green. Plan C’s SS20 collection is as vibrant, expressive and artistic as you’d expect. Graphic polka dots, hothouse florals and bursts of jungle red, shamrock and citrus take their place alongside whites and neutrals. Wardrobe classics – like crisp shirting, tailored trousers and trenches – are disrupted with unexpected touches: a zingy colour-pop collar or an outsized cut. Accessories are decorated with doodles by Carolina’s daughter Margherita. “I have to be comfortable, but always special,” Carolina says of her own approach to getting dressed. No doubt it will resonate with the Plan C woman. “I don’t like to be too banal,” she says. “I have to have something – a colour or a shape – that makes me feel different.”

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FASHION

SERIF SUBHEAD

POINT BLANK Worn long and sleek or short and sweet, head-to-toe white is strictly for belles with balls

orget Brexit or Remain, steak be advised to reschedule, or get over it. or tofu, hardback or Kindle; So how should you do it? Dismiss the most revealing indicator twee and think sleek. Be the woman of What Type of Person You Are is thus: who doesn’t need print or adornment can you wear white or not? By which I to make an impact in pared-back mean, specifically: can you wear white pieces from Jil Sander or The Row. and actually keep it white? Or can you A literal blank canvas, textured not even make it out of the front door details and directional silhouettes before staining it? add depth to white. So consider Real talk: white is high maintenance. trying Loewe’s asymmetric skirt with The difficult diva of the colour a square-neck body from Khaite, or spectrum, it demands care and caution Stella McCartney’s fluid shirt with a at all times. Diamonds and furs are for sweeping maxi skirt. amateurs. White is 1% dressing at its The white dress is a no-brainer for most unapologetic. Dedicated white summer days, but it’s also a gutsy afterwearers don’t do sweating, rainy days dark statement (ref: Jennifer Aniston or sticky toddlers; they rise above the in vintage Dior at the SAG Awards mucky fray of real life. Wearing white and Renée Zellweger at the Oscars). If Bianca Jagger says: ‘I have heard of the Tube, but you’re worried, however, that IRL that arriving at remind me what it is again?’ looks too much like you’re looking for Heathrow in 1972 And yet, the heart wants what the the nearest aisle to walk down, then heart wants. And this season it probably consider a tailored tux – Racil has an does, despite your better judgement, excellent one. Very Bianca Jagger. FRESH PICKS want white – and lots of it. The palette And go all in. The new way to cleanser dominated the SS20 catwalks. It wear white is with to-hell-with-thewas bohemian at Isabel Marant, beachy consequences commitment, head at Zimmerman, arty at Loewe and to toe. Add a top-handle bag by Jil immaculately minimalist at The Row. Sander or Balenciaga, or a hair band Even the master of the lavishly colourful by Lele Sadoughi. Even the white shoe gown, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, has been rehabilitated: 90s styles feel indulged in an homage to the white shirt. freshest now, like Miista’s barely-there The misconception about white is that sandals, Mercedes Castillo’s squareit’s sweet and innocent, all virginal dresses toed mules and Rejina Pyo’s thong and lace. But ditch that idea – white is sandals. The Essex girls, it seems, were the ultimate power move. It can even right all along. be political: just look at the Democratic One word of advice, however. They From left: Racil jacket £890 and women of Congress in their white suits say never work with children or animals trousers £500; (an homage to the Suffragettes). – and I would suggest you implement of Isabel Marant And of course, nothing says self50-foot exclusion zone around them for Étoile top £265 and skirt £285; confidence like the bride who’s dropped the duration of your sartorial whiteout. Jil Sander bag six months’ salary on a pristine ivory That, or make friends with your local £1,040 dress which she intends to keep that way dry cleaner. White might not be easy, during a day-long bacchanal. Speaking of weddings, a side note: but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth the effort. such is the inevitable popularity of white this season, that any summer bride with a blanket ban on guests wearing it would Laura Antonia Jordan is fashion news and features director of Grazia

NEW | Home Fragrance Discover the next chapter in our scent story

#ScentStory

Bianca Jagger: Getty Images

Words: Laura Antonia Jordan

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0217-ATK283-ES-LT-Advert-A4-HN.indd 1

18/02/2020 13:48

RUNWAY

Find your swagger in SS20’s standout styles – from tailored

REPORT

FASHION

separates in soft pastels to hard-wearing denim and look-at-me prints

PASTELS

TECHWEAR

Citizens of Humanity jeans £300

Heron Preston x Sami Miro shirt £595

Jacket £515

Polo Ralph Lauren jacket £175

HELIOT EMIL

GIVENCHY

C.P. COMPANY

DRIES VAN NOTEN X YOSHIROTTEN VEISS

RAF SIMONS Nana-nana bag £75

Coat £1,180

Jacket £510

Jacket £1,615

Fendi sliders £450

Carhartt WIP jacket £270

Wood Wood hat £50

Dyed, printed or clean-cut, there’s a type for every mood.

Short-sleeved styles in statement prints and graphics. Layering optional.

T-shirt £225 and jeans £260

Palm Angels jacket £640

Palm Angels jeans £570

SHOP IN-STORE OR ONLINE AT HARVEYNICHOLS.COM

Jacket £1,360

Alexander McQueen shoes £620

Shirt £560

Shirt £945

Marni bag £250

Wood Wood shirt £100

RHUDE

OUR LEGACY

PALM ANGELS

AMIRI

Jacket £450 and jeans £380

DOLCE & GABBANA

BOLD PRINTS

CASABLANCA

LUXE DENIM

Off-White: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Jacket £325 and jeans £275

Balmain cap £250

DSQUARED2

HERON PRESTON X LEVI’S

LUXE DENIM

Belstaff jacket £225

Shirt £615

Shirt £225 and shorts £205

Shirt £220

Axel Arigato trainers £180

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TECHWEAR

T-shirt £630

Lightweight, pick-up-and-go outerwear for the modern man.

Shirt £490

BOLD PRINTS

Jacket £1,560 and trousers £805

ARIES

AMIRI

OFF-WHITE

PASTELS

Guys. Embrace your gentle side with soft tones of pistachio, berry and vanilla.

Fendi shirt £490

SERIF SUBHEAD NEWS

Shorts £360

Jacket £630, shirt £285 and trousers £410

Shirt £210

PLAY THE FIELD Simon Porte Jacquemus celebrated the 10th anniversary of his label with a homecoming like no other

Shirt £320

or his SS20 show, French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus transported the runway (and celeb-filled front row) from the boulevards of Paris to the lavender fields of Valensole in southern France. The fashion moment (not to mention the Mediterranean heatwave) caused influencers’ Instagram feeds to go into meltdown. The Alpilles mountain chain and Provençal sky were a natural backdrop for the summer menswear edit, all louche fits and boxy frames. Also catching the eye is Jacquemus’ latest line of painterly prints, mixing Matisse-inspired motifs with patterns straight out the Gallic kitchen garden. Put them all together and you get instant holiday vibes made for Instagram moments of your own.

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Shorts £360

FASHION

ARIES = ARISE Cult brand Aries blurs the line between underground style and luxury fashion Aries is something of an anomaly on the streetwear scene. Fusing skate style, contemporary fits and funky prints, the London-based label appeals to a broad church of fashion followers – its signature column logos and ‘No Problemo’ slogans are just as likely to be spotted under a boxy blazer as with a pair of sweatpants. Marking its debut at Harvey Nichols, the SS20 collection promises graphic statements galore. Tracksuit top £405, tracksuit bottoms £375 and socks £40

SUPERSONIC

BOLD MOVES

Represent channels the legendary Rockfield Studios for its April Manchester pop-up Rockfield Studios in Wales is a place of hallowed turf for music fans – just ask Represent founders George and Michael Heaton. Home to a mixing desk that was used on masterpieces from Queen, Oasis and many more, the venue is the inspiration for Represent’s new collection (not to mention the location of its SS20 look book shoot). Rock ’n’ roll heritage infuses the collection via the Heaton brothers’ 90s lens. Alongside distressed denim there’s Madchesteresque tie-dye, grungy patchwork plaids, and a modish Britpop anorak, à la Liam Gallagher. To mark the launch, Represent is recreating Rockfield with an immersive pop-up at Harvey Nichols, Manchester in April. Air guitar sold separately.

Not content to stand in the shadows, men’s street style is embracing the magpie mood

SMILEY CULTURE Grailed drops, custom labs, and all the smileys – enter the world of Chinatown Market When Chinatown Market rolls into town, hypebeasts sit up and take stock (literally). Inspired by New York’s Canal Street – the spiritual home of bootleg culture – the LAbased streetwear label is renowned for its mix of graphic prints, experimental finishes and Custom Lab pop-ups. So, when it came to dropping the new collection, it was a no-brainer to bring the Chinatown Market experience to Harvey Nichols. Launching on 22nd April, the brand is getting its own space at the Knightsbridge store; and from 23rd to 25th April the brand’s design team will host a three-day Custom Lab where customers will be able to personalise pieces from the collection. There will also be a café – complete with smiley-stamped cups – in May. Alongside pieces from the SS20 range, there will be an edit designed exclusively for HN, a globe-print football, and a custom-made Chinatown Market ping-pong table – the ultimate collectors’ items for any streetwear aficionado.

X-FACTOR Demna Gvasalia brings renewed focus to Balenciaga for SS20

Jumper £220 and trousers £220

Balenciaga’s SS20 collection marked the moment when creative director Demna Gvasalia completed his transformation from streetwear’s enfant terrible to high fashion’s grand homme. Leaving behind Vetements – the brand he cofounded with his brother Guram – the Georgian designer will now plough all his creative energy and prowess into the Parisian fashion house. As for the new season, expect conceptual takes on corporate branding and couture-level athleisure in the label’s signature extreme silhouette. Hoodie £80

Long-sleeve T-shirt £395

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FASHION

THE ASCENT OF MAN

Call it the Harry Styles effect. Men are upping their aesthetic game and wearing more jewellery than ever, from delicate chains and precious stones to bold statement rings and earrings Photographer: David Marquez; Stylist: Laura Smith; Product Stylist: Maya Linhares-Marx

Above left, from top: Maria Black bar earring £100, garnet ring £165; twin hoop earring £75 and bracelet £125; above right: Tom Wood tiger eye ring £340, box chain necklace £175 and necklace with pendant £315; bottom left: All Blues bangle £290, gold necklace £180 and silver necklace £530; bottom right: Bleue Burnham gold and sapphire ring £990, silver ring £260 and gold and sapphire necklace £590 SHOP IN-STORE OR ONLINE AT HARVEYNICHOLS.COM

INTERVIEW

MON FRÈRE

The go-to tailor for Hollywood and hip-hop royalty, Davidson Petit-Frère is a cut above the rest Words: Dale Marshall; Photographer: Jack Margerison

ou might not know Davidson Petit-Frère’s name, but you’ll know his work. His bespoke double-breasted suits are favoured by Jay-Z – you might recall the sky-blue twopiece he wore alongside Beyoncé for their Brits acceptance speech last year; and he designed the killer wardrobe for Omari Hardwick’s character in the Netflix series Power. The man who calls Paul Pogba ‘mon frère’ has a celebrity roster that most brands can only dream of. So, what’s it like fitting suits for sports stars and hiphop royalty? “You’re always a little nervous when it’s someone you admire, but once I’m in my element the roles are reversed,” Petit-Frère says. “Then, through my work, they become a fan of me.”

Meeting Petit-Frère, it’s hard not to become a fan. When he steps out of the cab, he is dressed in an immaculately cut dark-purple suit with a black turtleneck and shades – passers-by would be forgiven for assuming he’s one of the film stars he dresses. “I make sure to look the part,” he says. “The sell is a lot easier when you’re a product of your product.” A native NewYorker, Petit-Frère learned the adage ‘Your first impression is your last impression’ from his time as a realestate agent – so much so that the sartorial aspect of his job took over. “Once I took a big interest in the way I dressed, the amount of work I got increased – so I realised that appearance is key. I’d post selfies of my work outfits

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INTERVIEW

which – alongside its on-point cut – emphasises comfort, freedom of movement and versatility. “My whole thing is that a man should never complain when wearing a garment,” Petit-Frère says as he points to the stretch fabric and quarter lining of his designs. “I’m a big guy, so I like my stuff very tailored, but I need to feel comfortable. I need to move around and not feel restricted, like I’m in a body bag. “The Frère man travels the world, so I want clothing that breathes. I can wear this suit over a T-shirt in Miami and layer it with a turtleneck when I head back to New York.” Which brings us to his latest collection. Launched at New York Fashion Week – where Frère made its runway debut – the Spring/Summer 2020 range is “fun and colourful, but also classic”, he says, and takes inspiration from the designer’s Haitian and French roots. Alongside Jay-Z’s pastel-blue number, there’s a paisley-print velvet tuxedo, subtle checked suiting and tailored tracksuits in grey pinstripe or camel. Of the label’s blend of formal and casual, Petit-Frère says, “It’s about bringing the techniques of fit, quality and hand detailing to every piece. We’ve designed an exclusive suede bomber jacket for Harvey Nichols. It has ‘London’ embroidered on the back – an expensive technique, but it makes the piece unique.” Being your own man is what the label is all about, Petit-Frère says. “The goal is to stand out without being excessive. I want our man to feel confident, because when you look your f***ing best, you walk and talk with swagger.” Of course, not everyone possesses that level of charisma and self-possession; but thanks to Frère, they can dress like they do.

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Jay-Z, and Lewis Hamilton & Jamie Foxx: Getty Images

“I want our man to feel confident, because when you look your f***ing best, you walk and talk with swagger”

to promote my real-estate career, and it just blew up,” he explains. (his Instagram account had 277k followers at the time of writing). “The reaction I got made me think, Wow, maybe I can make a living from this. “I was 21 and, while I loved my job, I was kind of at a crossroads. Like, do I really want to do this for the rest of my life? And I realised, if I’m having more fun designing outfits, then maybe that’s a sign for me to segue into another field.” Now a Forbes ‘30 Under 30’ honouree, Petit-Frère caters to an international client base. Whether he’s at suit fittings or travelling to fabric mills across Europe, he’s always on the move. “I’m only here for a couple of days. Then I fly back to New York... but I’m used to it,” he says. “One client wanted four tuxedos for his wife’s birthday, so I came to London for 24 hours. I flew 14 hours for a one-hour fitting – but that service is what we’re all about.” The jet-set lifestyle comes through in Frère’s sleek ready-to-wear collection,

SERIF SUBHEAD

This page, from top: Jay-Z wearing a Frère suit £2,050; from left, Frère suit £1,870, jacket £1,410 and jacket £1,645; Lewis Hamilton (wearing Frère) and Jamie Foxx in 2015; Opposite page: Petit-Frère wears a bespoke suit

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FASHION

SERIF SUBHEAD Jude Law as leggy legend Dickie Greenleaf in The Talented Mr Ripley (1999)

LEGS FOR DAYS

Temperatures rise, trousers get shorter. Raven Smith – a champion of shorts – looks forward to long, hot days and leg liberation

Everett Collection

inter is a time of great garments: cabled jumpers with rolled necks; legs double-wrapped in thermals and denim; occasional muffs. But under the cocoon of warmth, my ashy skin dreams of summer. Of long days by the lapping water with a well-thumbed paperback and a wet top lip. Of balmy evenings nursing a cool aperitivo. Of olives for dinner and occasional, accidental nights of dancing to house anthems and sipping from a fishbowl of watered-down ouzo in a cheap club. As the temperature soars, fashion transitions – like a high-school movie when the girl in glasses goes to prom. We spring into shorts, we shimmy into swimmers. I yearn for a hat that shades the beating sun, the thin lick of a cotton T-shirt. Summer is a time of pedalos and pedicures and peeling shoulders and, of course, legs. Last summer, I tried to get everyone to nickname me ‘The Legs’, but apparently you can’t self-assign a nickname. That’s not how they work. But suffice to say I love my legs. They’re just so great: functional limbs that become ornamental as the temperature rises. Winter legs are a Christmas tree in the attic waiting to be rescued for the appropriate season. That flank of leg, from the leather of a strappy sandal to the radius of a short short, carries us through the hottest days all the way to the beach and back to the villa… 34 inches of unapologetic midsummer. The small window of British summertime is where legs come into their own. But there are myriad ways to get it wrong. Cheap swimmers that

Casablanca shirt £405

Polo Ralph Lauren swim shorts £60

Common Projects shoes £325

fade instantly in the sun like a reverse Polaroid are a travesty, as are shorts that show the outline of your gonads. Too long and they’re capris, and you look trapped in 90s Glastonbury. British guys are understandably averse to a bit of leggage: cue repressed memories about the knobbly knees of school PE before leg day was invented. But there’s hope if you cop good-quality short trousers and style them with confidence. I prefer my summer shorts with my normal trainers and white socks, a step away from winter without the near-nudeness summer fits can force. Everyone wants to be Dickie Greenleaf, because he was rich and had his own place in Italy. But if you can let go of the obsession with keeping your clothes in pristine condition, then shorts are the gift that keeps on giving. Nothing feels as good as walking up the beach with a long-sleeved shirt thrown over your shorts, ice cream Jackson Pollocking your chest. Our legs – those calf-y, thigh-y, knee-y beasts – are our tool in the fight against the emotional turmoil of winter. A lick of moisturiser and we’re away. Raven Smith is a freelance creative director and writer, and a Vogue columnist

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FASHION

Loewe cardigan £795; Chloé blouse £905 and bag £980; Veronica Beard trousers £365; Wandler shoes £330. Hair: Brikena at Hershesons; Make-up: Tea at Charlotte Tilbury

“Shopping consciously and responsibly is imperative”

MARTHA WARD Fashion Director at Condé Nast Traveller

In their own words: meet a group of stylists, artists, industry insiders, creatives and all-around cool people using fashion to express themselves unapologetically Photographer: Simon Lipman

“I forever find myself reverting to a white blouse. Ruffled, frilled, blouson-sleeved, a collar detail… in whatever guise it may come, it’s the one item I repeat buy but wear consistently. I have so many vintage favourites – and yet there’s so much mileage in a Chloé one. I never feel pained spending the money, as I know it’s a forever piece. I’m drawn to vintage fashion and have been for as long as I can remember. Sifting through rails in the cold and dark of an early-morning market or rummaging through mountains of linen in France has always filled me with joy. And mixing and matching has always been the way I’ve dressed, unconsciously – high, low, old, new. As a result, I’ve not adhered to trends – which is why I chose cropped trousers and a rufflepleated blouse. They’re timeless. Vintage style is more prevalent now than ever, so I’m embracing contemporary brands like Alexa Chung and Batsheva, not to mention Bella Freud and her 70s-style cord trouser suits. Shopping consciously and responsibly is imperative, and thankfully it’s a message that’s spreading far and wide.”

FASHION

JENKE-AHMED TAILLY Fashion stylist, consultant and creative director “I grew up in a multicultural family who came from different parts of sub-Saharan Africa. Style and garments were a huge deal in celebrating and perpetuating our traditions, rituals and generational events. My mother was the most sublime woman I’ve ever known. She loved Saint Laurent, Montana and Pierre Cardin, and was all about Carven prints, Chanel and Givenchy lipstick. My aunts Fatou and Yassine were the Piaget and Cartier queens. My other aunts, Diarra and Anta, owned a marvellous shop of fabrics imported from India, Pakistan and Sudan, and they taught me about guipure, silk, cotton voile and all the fabulous mills. A few of my family members would bribe me with sweets so I would co-design (with tailors) ensembles for them for special occasions. Even my school uniform was in a league of its own! Ah, the good old days. The 70s vibe was our thing. We loved Godard, Pialat, Belmondo, and the French New Wave. I now realise how blessed I am to have grown up then, and to have been guided during my formative years with such untouchable greatness and love.”

“As an artist, I’m very particular about good stitching”

Raf Simons shirt £615; OAMC jacket £830; JW Anderson shirt £250; Lemaire trousers £385; Paul Smith beanie £100; Valentino Garavani trainers £590

“Even my school uniform was in a league of its own”

LUBNA CHOWDHARY Artist

Zimmemann dress £1,050; Gucci sunglasses £235

“When I’m choosing my clothes, the first thing I search for is colour, and the next is structure. And as an artist, I’m very particular about good stitching. My mother was a seamstress, so I was lucky enough to have an early introduction to the way clothes are constructed. I began making my own clothes at art school, putting into practice the skills I had learned from my mother. This continued until my son was born; then I applied my skills to making all his clothes, and he was known as the best-dressed boy in south London. My ideal outfit would be a well-cut dress with a cape or a well-cut trouser suit. The 60s and 70s would be my ideal time period; Bianca Jagger and Iman had a great sense of style. I like clothes that are modest, elegant and covering rather than revealing. I’m aware of the impact that the fashion industry has on the environment, and I’m working on the idea of streamlining my wardrobe, to have clothes in which I can present myself, and clothes that are comfortable and durable enough to stand the test of being used in the studio.”

FASHION

“Growing up, we dressed all the same”

GOLNAZ, ELNAZ & TANAZ HAKKAK Content creators “Our parents influenced our style since the beginning. They would invest in good old Italian garments that could be reused almost a decade later – timeless pieces. The 80s inspired them to wear bold colours with masculine silhouettes and a lot of leather and suede pieces. Fast forward 20 years or so, and they have triplet girls dressing up almost with the same style as them. However, we have opted for colours with more earthy and natural tones. We also like to wear men’s clothing over women’s, to blur the lines between the sexes and go for a more androgynous feel. Growing up, we dressed all the same, and now we’ve transitioned that into our own different tastes. We like to translate our individual styles to fashion weeks: Elnaz is New York, Golnaz is very London and Tanaz is Paris.”

Left: Golnaz wears a Brøgger blazer £700 and dress £675; Paris Texas boots £500; centre: Elnaz wears a Brøgger blazer £640 and dress £540; Paris Texas boots £545; right: Tanaz wears a Brøgger dress £700; Paris Texas boots £450

“I often find my most pleasing outfits happen by chance”

CLYM EVERNDEN Artist “My personal style has been informed by cultural and creative influences. I grew up in the 90s and felt an instinctive kinship with a more eclectic way of dressing, which echoes art and music subcultures rather than status. This porous approach to style has stayed with me. I’m open to any inspiration, from the graphic in a floor tile to musicians such as Bobby Gillespie. While I create work in my studio, I wear more relaxed clothing. I enjoy contrasting this with a more substantial piece of tailoring when I go out. I often find my most pleasing outfits happen by chance – when I pop to the corner shop, for example, throwing on a Celine coat over some sweatpants and a band T-shirt. I travel a lot for work. While globetrotting, my outfit forms a reassuring shell. I have various pieces that I treasure because they remind me of trips, such as starting work with Hudson Yards accompanied by my Burberry camera bag, or travelling to Tokyo with my Dries Van Noten velvet suit.” Celine by Hedi Slimane coat £2,700, trousers £650 and trainers £490

FASHION

Paul Smith blazer £700; Lemaire T-shirt £155; Acne Studios trousers £220; Grenson trainers £185

ALIANA WONG Pastry Chef at Spring

“For me, less is more”

“At the heart of it, I am a jeans-and-T-shirt kind of gal. Anything from Levi’s is a winner paired with a soft, good-quality tee from Acne Studios or Jil Sander. I don’t get much of an opportunity to dress up, but if given the chance you’ll often find me in a simple slip dress – like this light-green number by Bec + Bridge. For me, less is more. When it comes to accessorising, I have a couple of key items that I continually go to – including this pair of Clergerie Paris metallic mules, which I’ll most likely wear to the point of exhaustion.”

ASHKAN BAGHESTANI Director, Head of Sales, Contemporary Art and Middle East, Sotheby’s

Bec + Bridge dress £225; Clergerie Paris shoes £390 Make-up for all contributors apart from Martha Ward: Rebekah Lidstone at Frank Agency; Hair for all contributors apart from Martha Ward: Luke Benson at Frank Agency

“Exploring new regions and cultures feeds into my fashion sense”

“Working in the art world, you end up spending most of your time in front of art. My day-to-day activities can take me from the stacks (where we keep the paintings) to galleries, meetings, glamorous parties and – of course – auctioneering. Travel is a big part of it, and exploring new regions and cultures feeds into my fashion sense. It’s an intellectually stimulating environment, but more importantly a very visual one; art and fashion have always gone hand in hand. My favourite example is Raf Simons for Dior back in 2012, when he transposed Sterling Ruby’s spray paintings onto outfits. My personality is quite outgoing, and that is definitely reflected in my style, which I would describe as eclectic yet composed. I try to blend traditional folkloric motifs with a touch of more traditional European style. A double-breasted dark blue blazer is a must and goes with everything – just add some textured, patterned loafers during spring and summer. My favourite decade would be the 1920s and 1930s – the Art Deco period, its overall aesthetic and buzzing creativity.”

SERIF SUBHEAD

FASHION

Paco Rabanne top £320, skirt £320 and bag £490; Kenneth Jay Lane earrings £155

OUT THERE Summer forecast: sunny, with a chance of exuberance. Here’s to lamé and paillettes, tiered gowns and ruched taffeta, embellishment and embroidery Photographer: Simon Lipman

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Stylists: Kim Turnbull and Luke Ross

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This page: Dries Van Noten top £710; Zimmermann bikini £240; Sensi Studio hat £325; Jenny Bird ring £80 Opposite page: Erdem dress £3,495; ATP Atelier bag £245; Alighieri earrings £280

Michael Kors Collection sweater £890; Hunza G bikini £135; For Art’s Sake sunglasses £168

This page, top left: Lisa Marie Fernandez swimsuit £425; Aranaz bag £280; top right: Stella McCartney jumpsuit £2,125 and bag £765; Salvatore Ferragamo sunglasses £268; Soru Jewellery earrings £135; bottom left: Marcia dress £525; Rosantica bag £345; bottom right: Casa Raki swimsuit £170; Forte Forte trousers £410; Jenny Bird earrings £65; Boyy bag £375; Rejina Pyo sandals £330

WATCH THE VIDEO: Check out more SS20 womenswear at harveynichols.com

This page: Loewe shirt £675, shorts £395 and bag £1,900; Alighieri earrings £390 Opposite page: Zimmermann dress £1,700; Chloé sunglasses £318; Boyy bag £335 Model: Fernanda Kinder at Next Model Management; Hair & Make-Up: Juliana Gonazalez. Special thanks to The Atlantis, Paradise Island, Bahamas

SERIF SUBHEAD

FASHION

Alexander McQueen jacket £2,640, shirt £790 and trousers £1,340

SUIT YOURSELF

There’s no wrong time to wear bold two-pieces, retro prints and clean-cut tailoring Photographer: Simon Lipman

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Stylist: Luke Ross

This page: Loewe T-shirt £350; Wooyoungmi trousers £390 Opposite page: Versace dressing gown £410 and sweatpants £225; Kenzo sunglasses £130

Gucci jeans £650, bag £1,345, sunglasses £280 and sliders £225

WATCH THE VIDEO: Check out more SS20 menswear at harveynichols.com

This page, top left: Dsquared2 swim shorts £130; top right: Celine by Hedi Slimane blazer £2,450, jumper £650, jeans £490 and sunglasses £290; bottom left: Joseph top £165, Dries Van Noten trousers £485 and Berluti sunglasses £380; bottom right: Celine by Hedi Slimane towel £375 and sunglasses £290 Model: Garrett Taber at Next Model Management; Hair & Make-Up: Juliana Gonazalez. Special thanks to The Atlantis, Paradise Island, Bahamas

SERIF SUBHEAD PROMOTION

B E AU T Y

PROOF POSITIVE Working with the body’s metabolism, Cult51’s clinically formulated, scientifically advanced skincare has revolutionised the industry

hen British beauty brand Cult51 launched in 2013, its hero product, Night Cream, became an obsession among beauty editors and celebrities, sparking a 5,000-strong waiting list. The reason for its runaway success? The cream’s visible, effective and long-lasting results, backed up by scientific data. Founded by beauty-industry veteran Richard Mears, the brand had sky-high standards for its highly potent new products. “I challenged myself to create a cream that wouldn’t just give the appearance of younger skin – it would actually give you younger skin,” Mears said of Night Cream. The brand’s testing – conducted by Princeton Consumer Research, a leading clinical testing facility – backed up Mears’ claim. The data showed that, in just 12 hours, skin hydration was increased by up to 181% and, by promoting the skin’s own

production of collagen, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines was reduced by up to 52% in 28 days. Over six weeks, skin also became firmer by an average of 148%; the appearance of age spots was significantly reduced; and luminosity increased by 10% – a result similar to the effect of laser treatment. Fast-forward seven years, and many product trials later, to the latest Cult51 range. Bestsellers include Day Cream, which was developed to meet the demand for a product with all the antiageing power of Night Cream, but with the addition of SPF15; Immediate Effect Serum, the most potent concentration of the brand’s active ingredients; Neck and Décolleté Firming Cream, developed to hydrate and tighten the delicate skin around the neck and bust; and Eye Repair, a super-strength treatment formulated to visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles around the delicate eye area.

Cult51 Neck and Décolleté Firming Cream 30ml, £90; Night Cream 50ml, £125; Eye Repair 15ml, £50; Day Cream 20ml, £40; and Immediate Effect Serum 30ml, £95

Photograph: Simon Lipman

Maison Crivelli Bois Datchaï 100ml, £170

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E ASY O N THE E YES Trends from the catwalk • B E AU T Y FIX Launches & innovations ALL AB O U T ROSIE Meet the new face of Hourglass • TRIED & TESTED Find your facial STR AN G E MAG I C Escentric Molecules • MAD E IN THE SHAD E The guilt-free glow

BEAUTY

EASY ON

THE EYES

back in September. They’re set to shine again this summer

FENDI

Bombshell lashes and embellished lids dazzled the catwalks

MOSCHINO

Serge Lutens Fard Khôl Liner £50; Yves Saint Laurent Couture Eye Marker £27; Tom Ford Emotionproof Eyeliner in Brut Rose £32; Huda Beauty Life-Liner Duo Pencil & Liquid Eyeliner £22

EMBELLISHMENT

PRADA

Tom Ford Acqua Metal Shadow in Reflects Gilt £30; Marc Jacobs Beauty See-Quins Glam Glitter Liquid Eyeshadow in Smoked Glass £25; Hourglass Scattered Light Glitter Eyeshadow in Ray £26; Charlotte Tilbury Eyes To Mesmerize in Rose Gold £22

METALLICS

FENDI

We call it the euphoria effect. Whether you choose a single shade (acid green looks fabulous on darker skin – see Helmut Lang) or clash away like Olivia Rubin, neon is loud and proud for 2020. Too intimidating? Try pastels instead. One thing is for sure: pink is the colour for spring (just ask Nars, Fenty Beauty and Dior). Ground-breaking it may not be, but it’s certainly as pretty as a peach.

FENDI

DRIES VAN NOTEN Nars Blush in Gaiety £25; Dior Vernis Couture Colour, Gel Shine, Long Wear Nail Lacquer in Ruban £22; Kilian Le Rouge Parfum Satin Lipstick in Rouge Immortelle £42; Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer in $weet Mouth £19

PASTELS & NEON PIGMENTS

HELMUT LANG

Yes, yes… graphic liner catches our eye every season. But this time it’s vintage – literally. Moschino took us back to the 60s with negative-space liner, while Prada applied it above the eyelid. Upwards, downwards or flat, there are many ways to wing it this summer with heroes from Tom Ford, Huda Beauty, Serge Lutens and Yves Saint Laurent. You can even combine the trend with glitter (so long as it’s eco-friendly, obvs).

Off-White: Imaxtree; all other photos Jason Lloyd-Evans

OLIVIA RUBIN

Valet Studio 18kt gold hair clip £45; MAC 7 Lash £12.50 and Holographic Glitter in Lavender Hologram and Gold Hologram £16.50 each; Yves Saint Laurent Sequin Crush Eyeshadow in Legendary Gold £26

RETRO LINER OFF-WHITE

Don’t be afraid: bold, look-at-me embellishment doesn’t just belong onstage. Think of the trend as an invitation to explore texture and get creative. Take your cues from Fendi, where lower lash lines resembled a waterfall of cascading glitter, or get playful with carefully placed stars and sequins à la Dries Van Noten and Off-White. For pure festival exuberance, nothing beats MAC lashes paired with holographic glitter. Rock on.

Normally reserved for the festive season, metallic eyes are entirely wearable for spring – especially when paired with a neutral lip and bronzer, as seen at Fendi. A terracotta shimmer (try Hourglass Scattered Light Glitter Eyeshadow or Marc Jacobs Beauty Liquid See-Quins) can transport you to an evening on the Amalfi coast with an Aperol in your hand. A slick of Charlotte Tilbury Eyes To Mesmerize will complete the dolce vita look.

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NEWS

SERIF SUBHEAD

BEAUTY FIX

The exclusives, launches and innovations on Beauty Editor Chiara Merullo’s radar BIG LASH ENERGY

Maison Crivelli, one of the 27 exclusive brands in the Fragrance Room; 100ml, £170 each

SS20 is all about the eyes, from translucent gloss and frosty shadows to – mostly – mascara, the holy grail of any makeup bag. Combine Huda Beauty’s Pastel Palettes with Fenty Beauty’s Full Frontal Mascara to let your eyes do the talking.

Huda Beauty Pastel Palette £27

With 100 brands in one place, the new Fragrance Room in Knightsbridge is a playground for the senses

in Barcelona; a scented lipstick collection from Kilian; and Maison Matin, a brand whose name reflects their aim to change the codes of perfumery (Matine comes from the French word “mutine,” which translates as “mischievous”). The collection features six offbeat perfumes made from organic wheat alcohol, and packed without cellophane.

Fenty Beauty Full Frontal Mascara £21

BETTER BEAUTY Going green(er) has never looked so good

SUSTAINABLE

Full-size Experimental Perfume Club bottles can be refilled, and its boxes are made from 100% recycled material and printed using vegetable-based ink.

CHARITABLE

Chantecaille’s philanthropy is unparalleled: its six charity ranges help protect butterflies, birds, elephants and other species.

CRUELTY-FREE

Aveda products are never tested on animals, and it refuses to sell its products in countries where animal testing is required by law.

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You’ve read about it. Everyone’s talking about it. Now it’s possible to try Beauty Pie before you buy Industry game-changer Beauty Pie will soon make the leap from subscription-only service to its first bricks-and-mortar location: Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge. We spoke to founder Marcia Kilgore about how the move will continue to revolutionise how we shop.

Despite launching five hugely successful brands – including FitFlop, Bliss and Soap & Glory – you’ve described Beauty Pie as your best idea yet. Can you explain the concept? Beauty Pie is a buyers’ club. Together, our members have the same buying power as the big luxury beauty brands. So we can get the same insider prices from the best third-party make-up, skincare, hair-care, fragrance, candle and body-care labs in the world.

GREATEST SPRITZ

We get it. Finding your scent can be intimidating – overwhelming, even. But there’s good news: in our new Fragrance Room, you can discover the new, the unique and the really quite extraordinary. The space is home to 27 exclusives, including French perfume house Maison Crivelli; Spanish brand 27 87, whose bottles are created by artists

A PIECE OF THE PIE

VEGAN

Not only does Hourglass donate 1% of its profits to the Nonhuman Rights Project, it has also made a pledge to be completely vegan in 2020.

Vogue described Beauty Pie as a disruptor in the industry. How did you come up with the idea? I looked at the trends, like Netflix (membership for access), Everlane (price transparency) and iTunes (paying only for the songs you really want). And I realised that, for a lot of people, brands are becoming irrelevant. It was obvious to me that Beauty Pie was the way of the future. What are you hoping the brand will bring to the customer? We want them to have the same ‘kid in a candy shop’ experience that beauty-industry insiders have when we go to labs and shop product launches. It feels like a splurge, but it’s really a steal. On a more philosophical scale, we want to help women see they deserve a better deal – in beauty and in life.

Superactive Capsules 60 x .3ml, £10.16 for Beauty Pie members, and £50 for nonmembers

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS In my handbag you’ll always find... A pair and a spare of AirPods, and our Powderstick Lip Crayon in Blush. The motto I live by is... “I choose everything.” How to work, how to feel, how to think. The best beauty tip I’ve ever received is... The sun might feel good on your face, but it’s not going to look good on your face.

Have you experienced any type of backlash for cutting out the middlemen? We’ve heard we’re not particularly popular with the ‘big guys’. But because we’re totally transparent, there’s really nothing anyone can say. We’ll take a Swiss Hyaluronic Acid & Peptide Serum that costs £13.57 to make and stock in a warehouse and tell you that it costs £13.57 to make and stock in a warehouse. If that truth creates a backlash, so be it. What are Beauty Pie’s bestselling products? Everything Super Retinol, Jeju and Japanfusion. We also have four incredibly popular fragrances and a fast-moving range of Superactive Capsules. And the latest big sellers are our candles, Super Healthy Skin Moisture Body Crème and Body Scrub. It’s difficult to narrow it down, because we launch more than 100 products a year, and we keep only the repeat-sellers in the line-up. Which products can you not live without? Our new Soul Providers line-up. Nothing beats a hit of pure aromatherapy for a beginning-of-theday boost. And the Grapefruit & Black Pepper Dry Oil Sugar Scrub is just insanely good. But my bathroom and my make-up bag are top-to-bottom Beauty Pie – mixed in with the odd lab sample.

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SERIF SUBHEAD

INTERVIEW

ALL ABOUT ROSIE She’s multitalented, happy, healthy and very, very glowy. All of which makes Rosie Huntington-Whiteley the perfect ambassador for Hourglass

Words: Mischa Smith

osie Huntington-Whiteley refuses to be pigeonholed. done for years. I’ve loved the brand for so long... so it’s really She’s been a model since the age of 16 (including come full circle.” Describing Janes as a ‘boss’, Huntingtonfor Burberry), an actress since 2011 (most recently in Whiteley waxes lyrical about her mentor: “Everything she does, 2015’s Oscar-winning Mad Max: Fury Road) and a mother since she does with integrity.” 2017. In 2018 she launched Rose Inc., a pastel-hued hub of Splitting her time between London and Los Angeles, beauty tips, celebrity interviews and all things Rosie. And last Huntington-Whiteley knows all too well that ‘balance’ is more year she became the ambassador for anti-cruelty beauty brand than just a wellness buzzword – it’s a moving target. “There are Hourglass. She’s just got it. days where I feel exhausted and exasperShe’s also delightfully approachable, ated, and then there are days where I feel otherworldly beautiful, and engaged to like I’m Superwoman. That’s just the way Jason Statham – so you’d be forgiven it goes,” she says. “I love to work, to have for experiencing extreme envy (as do, my own life, and I also love to be a mum. presumably, many of her 10.8 million It’s a juggle. It’s a full-on juggle.” Instagram followers). So – to what does she Down-to-earth though she may be, owe her enviability, her success, her energy, Huntington-Whiteley doesn’t pretend to and her supremely healthy-looking skin? have a normal life, or insist that she ‘just “Oh, well, you know, everyone’s drinking woke up like this’; indeed, the off-duty celery juice at the moment, and matcha model look isn’t a myth she’s interested lattes are a big thing, hence why I’m having in perpetuating. one now,” she says, semi-mocking some “I really don’t wear make-up if I’m at clichés about LA life. She does believe in home all day. But if I’m going out, I always intermittent fasting and admits to having wear it,” she says. Favouring a ‘glowy’ a thing for broccoli sprouts; but she insists look – another Instagram sensation, at 4.1 Hourglass Vanish Flash Highlighting Stick £38, she’s relatively normal, “not super-strict million hashtags – Huntington-Whiteley with anything, or super faddy”. And when Vanish Seamless Finish Liquid Foundation 25ml, £51 puts her bright complexion down to and Vanish Airbrush Concealer £32 she says she also considers a glass of wine gallons of water and (unsurprisingly) ‘wellness’ – well, it only makes her that much more likeable. Hourglass Vanish Airbrush Concealer. She says she always does Rose Inc. and Hourglass have always had a mutual brand- her brows and uses cream blush, bronzer, lipstick (which she crush. So perhaps it was no surprise when Huntington-Whiteley matches to her outfit) and mascara (if she’s feeling up to it). “If I’m really honest, it takes me about half an hour to do my makewas approached to be Hourglass’ first celebrity ambassador. “Carisa Janes, the founder, really does inspire me, and has up,” she confesses. “And it’s time I have to carve out for myself.”

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BEAUTY

FIND YOUR FACIAL

BEST FOR ANTI-AGEING: DR DENNIS GROSS AT HERSHESONS WHAT: The dermatologist’s facials and peels have a strong focus on anti-ageing. but fear not: no downtime is required.

Which is the best treatment for a quick skin fix? Anti-ageing? A pre-event pick-me-up? Beauty Editor Chiara Merullo has tried them all – and has the glow to prove it

HOW: After your peel is chosen – from gentle to more advanced – the solution is applied. This is repeated three to four times and topped off with an instant neutraliser. DID YOU KNOW: The skincare master’s line of at-home peels is a favourite of beauty editors. PUT TO THE TEST: It was the texture that surprised me: I found myself stroking my cheeks over the next few days – a habit that, admittedly, looked a little odd but certainly proved the power of the peel. To book, email enquiries@danielhersheson.com

BEST ALL-ROUNDER: THALGO BEST FOR A QUICK FIX: THE LIGHT SALON

HOW: Rejuvenation and Acne LED Facials (with near-infrared and blue light), use the latest technology (the Healite II) to reinvigorate and repair the skin’s cells while encouraging the body’s own production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. DID YOU KNOW: The Light Salon now offers a full-body version of its hero

PUT TO THE TEST: The Light Salon is my fail-safe, whether for a pick-me-up in my lunch hour or a weekly solution to keep breakouts at bay. Plus, there’s no downtime – so I often recommend it to brides. To book, email london@thelightsalon.com

BEST PRE-EVENT GLOW: FACE PLACE WHAT: Hailing from Hollywood (where else?), Face Place puts the emphasis on going deep beneath the skin’s surface. The brand’s cleansing ‘heat dome’ and galvanic mask promote firmness and a clearer, lifted complexion.

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DID YOU KNOW: The likes of Anne Hathaway and Emma Stone have been Face Place devotees for years.

Getty Images

WHAT: If you haven’t heard about The Light Salon, where have you been? Certainly not basking under the LED light, reaping the benefits of the feel-good endorphins. The revolutionary skin treatment shows just how easy it is to get glowing skin in under 20 minutes.

HOW: Heated flannels soaked in yucca root, followed by a heated, cone-shaped dome open pores. This preps the skin for what’s to come: a tiny vacuum pen and manual extraction that help remove with any nasties lurking beneath the surface. But the pièce de résistance is the is The Space Age-style galvanic mask (great for selfies), which pulses the face with low electric currents to drive the vitamin C and zinc solution deep into the skin and stimulate cell renewal.

treatment. It not only soothes the skin, it also re-energises and helps with breathing, circulation, and aches and pains.

PUT TO THE TEST: After the Signature Treatment, not only was my skin shiny on top, it had also undergone some serious heavy lifting underneath. If you need a skin reset – short- or long-term – Face Place and its futuristic machinery are worth their weight in gold. To book, email beautyconcierge@harveynichols.com

WHAT: Sensitive skin? Your first-ever facial? Or do you simply want all the benefits without the fuss? Thalgo is the soothing facial that covers all the bases with minimal downtime. HOW: It may seem simple, but there are four stages at work here: analysis, exfoliation, drainage and infusion, and firming and tightening. And all the while, vibrational waves will be hard at work – but you won’t even feel it. DID YOU KNOW: Founded by pharmacist M. Bouclet in 1964, the brand uses marine algae in its body wraps and world-famous facials. PUT TO THE TEST: Gentle and effective, Thalgo facials are rejuvenating and rebalancing; they promise to do it all with just the right amount of innovation. To book, email london@ beyondmedispa.com

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INTERVIEW

STRANGE MAGIC

With the launch of a fifth pair of fragrances, Escentric Molecules perfumer Geza Schoen reflects on his uncanny instinct for finding single ingredients and making them sing

he thing about geniuses is that they often think they are normal. Geza Schoen, the perfumer behind Escentric Molecules, looks normal, and acts normal, but he’s definitely not normal. He’ll take that as a compliment. We’re sitting in a bar in Shoreditch to talk about the upcoming launch of his fifth pair of fragrances. He is softly spoken, but gets agitated – which he does whenever he talks about his specialist subject: fragrance. He is casually dressed in dark jeans and a sweater; it’s elegant, because he’s tall and lean. So far, so normal. When he was 13, Schoen developed an obsession for fragrance. “In those days, perfume ads in magazines had addresses on,” he says. “I just started writing postcards asking for samples... and they sent them! I’d get home from school and there would be two or three packages. It was like Christmas.” Where did the obsession come from? “My father was an art teacher, and while I was growing up, there were always fun people at our house – interesting individuals with interesting ideas.” From a young teen, fast forward a few years: Schoen lands a job at Haarmann & Reimer, at that time the fourth biggest fragrance and flavour house in the world.

“I’d been in contact with them many times over the years,” Schoen says. “At the beginning of the 90s, I got an interview, and I told them I really needed to become a perfumer. By then, I had such a vast collection of fragrances, and I was able to talk about it like few other people. So, they agreed.” This is where Iso E Super comes in, a manufactured aroma molecule that was invented in a lab in 1973. “I found it on a shelf in my office, just a few days in,” Schoen says. “When I smelled it, in isolation, I realised it was the common denominator in every fragrance I have ever loved. But it’s not about the smell of it. There’s a velvety attraction. It’s like a magic potion that only wizards have access to.” Within a month of joining Haarmann & Reimer, he began testing the effects of Iso E Super, combining it with other ingredients in various quantities. “A few weeks after I joined the company, I went for a drink with a mate, having put a drop of Iso E Super on each of us. Ten minutes later a woman came over and said, ‘It smells so nice here!’ And it was just Iso E Super. On its own. It was like a magic drug.” For the next few years, Schoen gained a reputation in the fragrance industry, creating scents for many brands including Diesel, FCUK and Boadicea the Victorious. But he continued

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to experiment with the revolutionary molecule, concocting fragrances that contained it in huge proportions. He finally launched Escentric Molecules 01 in 2006, a pair of fragrances dominated by Iso E Super.The first contained an unprecedented 65% of the molecule mixed with other ingredients. The second contained only Iso E Super, a move perceived by the industry to be too radical. “Other perfumers said, ‘You look a bit stupid, mate. Show them something a bit more complex!’ By the time it launched, I was worried it would only appeal to freaks and outsiders,” he says. But they were all wrong. At its height, one bottle of Escentric Molecules was selling every 15 minutes. In response, Schoen shortly followed up with his next pair of fragrances, 02 – and then 03, 04 and now 05. Each pair focuses on different aroma-molecules that have the character to stand alone. “I see 02 as a response to 01, because it isn’t particularly fresh,” Schoen says. “Ambroxan became the molecule, and I squeezed in as much as I could. Escentric 02 is probably our most successful fragrance because the freshness lasts so long. For 03, the story is all about roots. Vetiryl acetate is the best-smelling vetiver ingredient. Remove the smoky and leathery bits and you’re left with a beautiful, grassy wood note. I combined that with orris and ginger. In 04 the molecule is Javanol. It has a bit of a grapefruit note on top, also a rosy note, and then obviously a sandalwood character. And 05 grew out of Cashmeran. It has two facets – woody and musky – plus a really cool pine note. I don’t usually like pine – it reminds me of bubble bath. I thought, How can I make it the star? Then it dawned on me that I could use pine in its dry, resinous state. There’s a place I go in Mallorca... the path from the beach runs through all these old trees, and the warmed resins make a specific woody atmosphere. That’s 05.” Will the Cashmeran in 05 have the same magical qualities as the Iso E Super in 01? “No,” Schoen says. “It’s absolutely impossible. When we launched 01, in one of the first interviews I said that Iso E Super has a pheromonic effect. And then I hated myself for saying it, because everyone picked up on it and said, ‘Oh it’s all about the pheromones.’ But I had no proof. There was no scientific research behind it. Ten years later, I met Professor Hans Hatt, who runs the cell physiology department at Ruhr University in Bochum, Germany. He does research into how cells react to certain scents. I said to him, ‘Why don’t you try some cool ingredients, which are really different?’ Among them was Iso E Super. I didn’t hear back from him. Eventually I called him and said, ‘What happened when you put the Iso E Super into the cell?’ And he said, ‘The cells started to dance.’ He has since tested it more, and they found out that Iso E

“Iso E Super is like a magic potion that only wizards have access to”

Escentric Molecules Escentric 05 and Molecule 05 100ml, £80 each

Super stimulates one of our five pheromone receptors. So, I’d said it had a pheromonic effect all those years ago, and it turns out I was right. “Iso E Super was the right molecule to start the series with. It’s the one that draws you in. It has a physical impact. The other molecules don’t have the same properties, but they retain the philosophy of choosing a single ingredient and allowing it to be the hero.” Are there plans to do another fragrance using Iso E Super? “Yes. We are going to take advantage of the science we’ve discovered since we launched. I don’t know if I’m allowed to talk openly about it, but it’ll be at the beginning of next year.” Which you’ll be launching in Harvey Nicks? “Ah, for sure, man... Where else?” Genius.

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BEAUTY

MADE IN THE SHADE Our edit of summer-skin power players is all about getting that guilt-free glow Words: Chiara Merullo; Photographer: Simon Lipman

THE CHEAT Everyone needs Amanda Harrington’s revolutionary sunless tan in their lives. The brand’s Bronzing Mist (75ml) – with Primer (75ml) – applied with the Face Lifter Brush, gives skin a natural-looking glow. Utterly foolproof and reassuringly lightweight. Set £65

THE PROTECTOR Caudalie is clever. While fending off free-radicals generated by UVA and UVB rays, its Milky Sun Spray also preserves the environment. In fact, all the brand’s suncare products are free from silicones and other nasties that damage marine ecosystems. 150ml, £21

THE PREP & PRIME With high UVA protection, Ultrasun Body Tan Activator protects the skin and accelerates bronzing by over 40% in 10 days. It’s free from oil, perfume, emulsifiers and preservatives, making it suitable for even the most sensitive skin. 150ml, £28

THE GLOW-GETTER Summer is all about showing off skin – so sheer coverage with maximum protection is a must. Glow Tone Up screens with SPF40, gives a dewy shimmer, and corrects imperfections and uneven tone. And it comes in 10 shades, from Buff to Deep Bronze. £66

Anni Lu earrings £210; Alighieri necklace £280; Zimmermann swimsuit £285 Model: Maleri Mills at Elite Model Management Hair & make-up: Juliana Gonazalez Stylist: Luke Ross Special thanks to The Atlantis, Paradise Island, Bahamas

THE HEALER If past sun exposure is a problem, Maege High Concentration Serum is the solution. Its active peptide, SDKP, has been hailed for its anti-ageing properties. Just a small amount of the ingredient triggers the skin’s natural regeneration response. 30ml, £85

LIFESTYLE

Photograph: Simon Lipman

Harvey Nichols Espresso Martini Cocktail 125ml, £6

Please enjoy responsibly

TH O U G HT FO R FO O D OXO Tower’s journey towards sustainability FO O D NE WS Easter sweets & Patrón x Harvey Nichols’ exclusive tequila G REEKS B E ARIN G G IF TS Euphoria wellness retreat • WHAT’S O N Regional events

FOOD Opposite page: OXO Tower Brasserie; Right: over 600 scallop shells have been donated to the Coin Street Community Centre to be used in play schemes and local arts and crafts clubs

THOUGHT FOR FOOD In the journey towards sustainability in the restaurant industry, even small changes can yield big results. OXO Tower’s Andrea Zick and her team are doing their bit Words: Anna D’Alessio

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Images: OXO creative team

et’s face it: the planet is in need of some TLC. Conversations around single-use plastic are louder than ever – we have Sir David Attenborough’s Blue Planet to thank for this. And people are questioning what they should be doing to help protect the environment. The list is endless: cut food waste, recycle, run appliances on eco settings, and – overall – make conscious choices from the moment we open our eyes until we hit the pillow at night. One such person has taken this fight to heart. That’s Andrea Zick, PA to the General Manager at OXO Tower Restaurant, Bar & Brasserie (and unofficial sustainability warrior). Overlooking the Thames and London’s North Bank, OXO Tower has more than a few years of award-winning service and food under its belt. This is where Zick works her magic, inspiring chefs, staff, and guests to practice sustainability in everything they do. “For me,” she says, “sustainability means ensuring that there is a planet – with all the necessary resources – to live on for generations to come.” A founding member of the Sustainable Restaurant Association (SRA), OXO continually assesses its impact on the environment across 10 “sustainability areas”, from using seasonal ingredients to treating staff fairly. With a three-star rating – the maximum – for 2020, the restaurant is obviously on the right path. And with competition, scrutiny and standards all on the rise, three stars is no small feat. Change is coming, but change has already happened too: red meat no longer appears on the children’s menu; turkey Bolognese replaced the beef version, and chicken burgers are now served instead of beef patties. And each dish is chockfull of veg. Both the Restaurant and the Brasserie are starting to focus on “serving better meat” – another one of the SRA’s sustainability goals. Ox cheek – an under-used and often wasted

“Even just cutting down your portion of beef steak from 6oz to 4oz can cut your CO2 emissions by half” cut – appears on menus year-round, as does venison. And the menu has more vegetarian and vegan dishes than ever before. The reason for these changes, Zick says, is that a quarter of global carbon emissions come from food alone, and half of all farmed-animal emissions come from beef and lamb. She emphasises the importance of small steps in reducing this. “According to the University of California, even just cutting down your portion of beef steak from 6oz to 4oz can cut your CO2 emissions by half,” she says. “A small thing like this, when scaled up for a restaurant, will add up to pretty big numbers. “With beef being one of our bestselling dishes, we have to work harder to get the most sustainable farmed beef wherever possible. Having said that, with people choosing more plantbased options, we also want to reduce animal products on our menus, and make plant-based dining inclusive.” In the wider discussion of specific ingredients, considering their provenance is important, too. “Our aim is to feed our guests with food that has been sourced and produced with a conscious effort to improve the livelihood of everyone involved in the supply chain while ensuring our planet’s resources are maintained or regenerated,” Zick says. OXO only serves milk that is organic, and has chosen Valrhona chocolate and Illy coffee over other suppliers: Valrhona can

DISCOVER OUR SUPERHERB

FOOD

SERIF SUBHEAD

Right: “Waste Not Want Lots” zero-waste afternoon tea; Below: Andrea Zick (right) at a Beach Clean in partnership with Bywaters in September 2019

“We’re looking at building long-term relationships with local growers and producers, which will allow us to better understand our supply chain and give back to the farmers” trace all its cocoa beans, and Illy’s commitment to sustainability earned it the world’s first Responsible Supply Chain Process Certification. Illy also pays its coffee growers 30% more than the market average, and has plans to become carbon-negative in the near future. The reasons behind OXO’s supplier decisions are multifaceted. “It has to do with preferences, funds, skills, knowledge, the environment you live in, your culture, access and availability. It’s a complex process,” Zick says. “Choosing our coffee supplier required business stakeholders to agree on aims, the needs of the business, priorities and outcome.” Here’s another – not so – fun fact. According to Waste and Resources Action Programme, 600,000 tonnes of food are wasted each year in the UK. OXO Tower is spearheading the no-waste movement through trialling no-waste recipes, and repurposing leftovers and scraps. Would you eat carrot tops? Probably not. But what if they could be used to make carrot-top pesto? Same with broccoli leaves: you may not order them off the menu, but you’d be wrong to assume they couldn’t be used to make piccalilli. Zick says OXO is left with over 180kg of animal bones every week. When life gives you bones, you make rich stock. A

‘How does Superman get his superpowers? According to actor Henry Cavill, it’s all in the water.’ – How to Spend It member of Too Good to Go – the world’s largest food surplus marketplace – OXO Tower has so far saved and sold 147 meals that would have otherwise gone to waste. According to the app, almost 900,000 meals are thrown away daily by restaurants, pubs and cafés because they aren’t sold in time. Staff involvement is central to OXO’s impressive sustainability score card. Not only are employees challenged to come up with innovative ways to use up all that’s in the kitchen; they’re also taught to put their money where their mouth is. Staff menus routinely feature dishes made with repurposed leftovers – think Panzanella salad (using old bread), cauliflower-leaf kimchee, and pastry filled with cheese made from out-of-date milk (still safe to eat, just unable to be served to the public due to health regulations). Staff are also encouraged to do work in the local community – by joining Zick on one of her Thames Beach Cleans, for example. Or donating scallop shells to local community centres for arts & crafts clubs and play schemes. Zick calls OXO Tower Head Pastry Chef Penny Wabbit an “advocate for foraging”. A sustainability warrior herself, Wabbit has been known to take home leftover pea pods to make wine, and kitchen scraps to test new recipes. Her genius “Waste Not Want Lots” zero-waste afternoon tea (pictured) features apple jelly made from peels and cores, apricot panna cotta made with the fruit’s stones, and a treacle tart made with stale bread. What’s more – it’s served on a recycled glass plate. The ‘ta-da’ list is long, but Zick says the to-do list is longer. “Our coffee grounds should be put to good use. We feel we’re missing a trick, sending them off to anaerobic digestion,” she jokes. “We’ve scheduled another six Beach Cleans for 2020, and we’re planning to invite the local community to join us. With regards to sourcing, we’re looking at building long-term relationships with local growers and producers, which will allow us to better understand our supply chain and give back to the farmers – they’re the ones who make our work possible.”

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NEWS

SERIF SUBHEAD

TABLE HOPPERS

LEAGUES AHEAD

The springtime food & drink launches and exclusives we’re excited about. Plus, the snacks you need to celebrate Easter

TEATIME IN PARIS This is certainly not your average cup of tea. Exclusive to Harvey Nichols in the UK, Ladurée’s line of teas is a celebration of full-bodied classic and delicate, fruity flavours. Choose from an assortment of eight blends – to gift or keep – or one of the brand’s signature releases. Below, from left: T & Beauté by Ladurée Mathilde Tea Bags x 20, £18.95, and Eugénie Tea Bags x 20 £18.95

It’s limited-edition. It’s single-cask. It’s deliciously smooth. The exclusive Patrón x Harvey Nichols tequila is a party for the senses (and the environment) Words: Anna D’Alessio

e’re not ones to throw around the word ‘unique’. But we do call things out as they are. So we’ll give it to you straight: the new and exclusive Harvey Nichols Barrel Select Añejo Tequila is unlike anything anyone has ever tasted before. Why? Our spirits buyers – on an invite-only visit to Hacienda Patrón, the brand’s world-class estate with an impressive sustainability agenda – had the rare chance to participate in its Barrel Select Programme to create it. Guided by the distillery’s reps, they tasted various tequilas (someone’s gotta do it) made using different processes and aged in a range of barrel types for varying lengths of time. The lightbulb moment happened when they came across a tequila distilled in 2017, aged in a single Allier-oak barrel. Allier is a forest located between Sancerre and Burgundy in France. Here, trees grow upwards instead of outwards, resulting in a tight grain to the wood. When used to create barrels, this wood adds finesse and spice to anything matured within it. The new HN tequila was matured in such a barrel for 33 months – 20 longer than required by law for it to be called an Añejo, and almost long enough to become an Extra Añejo – and then filled into 366 limited-edition bottles. Cognac-like in richness and smoothness, it gives off notes of vanilla, jasmine, roasted agave and ripe apricot on the nose, and a perception of sweetness combined with woodsmoke, oak logs and stone fruit drizzled with honey and spices. Have it alongside tacos, frijoles negros scooped with totopos or spiced chocolate. (We also suggest getting your hands on a bottle quick). Not only does it taste great, it was also produced with the environment in mind. Except for the

Above: a farmer at Hacienda Patrón chops agave; below: Patrón x Harvey Nichols Barrel Select Añejo Tequila – coming soon; 70cl, £85

filling of the bottles, every single step of the process is carried out by hand – from the chopping of the piña (the agave heart) to the cooking, crushing, fermenting, distillation, corking and labelling. Responsible farming is at the heart of Patrón’s operation in Jalisco, Mexico. It protects and funds studies to ensure the sustainability of the Weber Blue Agave Plant – its tequila is 100% made from this specific type – and composts 100% of its leftover agave fibres to create 5,500 tonnes of natural fertiliser. The fertiliser is then used for the Hacienda’s vegetable garden, which provides food for members of staff. Another green tick on the company’s scorecard is given for its conscious water usage. Located next to the distillery, Patron’s five-star guesthouse, La Casona, recycles its water in a ‘reverse osmosis’ plant, reusing it for irrigation of the estate-grown agave. The team at Hacienda Patrón says: “We didn’t invent tequila, we just perfected it.” And when you taste it, you’ll discover they really have.

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CRACKING PAIRING

FAMOUSLY SWEET

Great drinks deserve great snacks. That’s what The Drinks Bakery thinks, at least. From, Parmesan & basil to Pecorino & Scottish seaweed, its biscuits are designed to complement everything from fruity whites to gin cocktails and IPAs. 110g, £5.95

Made from fresh seasonal fruits, unrefined cane sugar and spices, Confiture Parisienne’s jams are dreamed up by passionate chefs, cooked in small quantities and poured by hand. Plus, they come in beautiful enamelled jars. Exclusive to HN. 250g, £17.95

THE EASTER BUNNY’S PANTRY

SPECKLED

VEGAN

TRADITIONAL

CONTINENTAL

No spread is complete without mini eggs – small pieces of heaven with a crispy outer shell.

Calling all vegans & lovers of organic fare: these handmade and hand-painted chocolate eggs are for you.

A quintessential Easter fruitcake with two layers of marzipan handmade in the South Shropshire hills.

Italians know how to do Easter. Meet the Colomba, a brioche with candied orange and almonds.

Mini Chocolate Eggs 185g, £6.95

Booja Booja Easter egg (large) 138g, £24.95

Simply Delicious simnel cake (large) 800g, £24.95

Seggiano Colomba 500g, £19.95

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SERIF SUBHEAD WELLNESS

GREEKS BEARING GIFTS Can a European spa be truly holistic? Euphoria is that rare short-haul retreat that gives guests the tools to find their own balance, both mind and body Words: Chiara Merullo

ucked away in the Peloponnesian mountains lies Euphoria Retreat, a wellness destination influenced by the 41 monasteries that lie at the foot of Mount Taygetos and – of course – the rich history of the land of the Spartans. Its flowing curves cling to the mountain like a Byzantine maze and provide an immediate sign that this is no ordinary spa. Condé Nast Traveller, the Times and the Evening Standard have called Euphoria a game-changer for both physical and emotional metamorphoses – and I was about to find out why. It’s not just the dramatic landscape that inspires transformation: Euphoria Retreat founder Marina Efraimoglou was a high-flying banker before a non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma diagnosis at 29 changed her life. After overcoming the disease, she retrained in Chinese medicine, travelled extensively – including to a terrifying-sounding darkness retreat in Thailand – and studied with wellness guru

Deepak Chopra. Ten years later, Euphoria was born. A fusion of ancient Greek and Chinese philosophies, Euphoria’s ethos is made up of five elements. Water, wood, earth, fire and metal are used to represent patterns of health and behaviour, with treatments personalised to guests’ needs. They take place around a domed tower, in the centre of which a heated hydrotherapy pool plummets to four metres. If you’re clever, you’ll climb to the top of the spiral staircase that surrounds the tower and discover the hot tub, perched like a mirage among the trees. The really daring will sneak up a glass of buttery white and watch the sunset in the hot, bubbling water. But I had work to do. I was trialling the Inner and Outer Glow – but all programmes at Euphoria start with a 3GL Assessment. Based on a pinprick blood test, the assessment measures the three most important biomarkers for metabolic health: glycogen, glucose and glutathione. Interestingly, I was high

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Top left: the heated hydrotherapy pools; Above: the author relaxes in the indoor pool; and the spa relaxation room; Below: the outdoor infinity pool; Above right: the exterior of Euphoria Retreat

in the latter, the protector against free radicals and illness. Efraimoglou said this could be because I had high levels of cortisol (the stress hormone), perhaps because I’m a HIIT junkie; apparently the activity can increase cortisol, which can prevent the body from processing glutathione well. (And could help explain my history of stomach issues.) In my prescribed wood-themed Five Element Balancing massage – designed to ‘create harmony and flow’ – my therapist, Nicos, commented that I still wasn’t ‘letting go’. To him, my body appeared tense (although I would describe it as the best massage of my life). I also struggled during my first attempt at guided meditation; rather embarrassingly, my head kept bobbing up and down like a nodding dog as I desperately tried to keep myself awake. Nicos advised me to have a Watsu – a one-on-one treatment where you’re massaged, stretched and cradled in warm water. I had a feeling I would have no option but to ‘let go’ there, but I politely declined. But it was Euphoria’s exclusive Sanctuary of Busy Minds that was the most revealing. My therapist, Katerina, was tasked with reducing my stress using a combination of massage and healing techniques. I can’t tell you exactly what she did; all I know is that I fell into a dream-like state before bolting upright mid-treatment and (to Katerina’s horror) gasping, “My chest!”. A spiritual take on this might be that the stress was finally leaving my body. Meanwhile, cynics would argue that it was my innate fight-or-flight response kicking in to resist total relaxation. Whatever it was, it had an effect on me, and for a while after, I felt shaken. Could it be that my stress levels were so high, my

body was fighting the very thing it needed most? I had an intense headache the whole of my second day, as if my ponytail had been yanked. I knew it wasn’t related to coffee withdrawal, as I had snuck one in; but I couldn’t help but wonder if my body was detoxing. My five meals a day were absolutely delicious, so I’d barely noticed that they were free from sugar, salt and the like. What I had noticed was that my stomach wasn’t flaring up as much. Either way, there was no doubt that my body was reacting to its surroundings – whether I liked it or not. But after the storm comes the rainbow; the next day, I awoke feeling better than I had in a long time. Bright eyes, fresh skin, and full of energy to embrace the day’s activities – a ‘yogilates’ class and a hike to Mystras castle. Almost everyone I met at Euphoria told me they had experienced some sort of metamorphosis. Efraimoglou said she’d seen many such ‘shifts’ at the retreat, including that of an alcoholic finally finding sobriety. He believed that Euphoria had made it achievable by putting the power in his hands. (Although not encouraged, alcohol is available.) In Euphoria-speak, ‘he was the player of his own life’. It’s this kind of mentality that sets the retreat apart from its competitors and encourages lasting change. By the end of my stay, I had to admit that – though I came for a reset – Euphoria showed me that I needed to make changes for myself. It gave me a soft and nurturing embrace; somewhere to discover, soothe and reassess. And the changes I felt in my body – even the scary ones – proved I needed to take some time out. Who knows – next time I might even be able to let go enough to try the Watsu. Healing Holidays can arrange a three-night Inner and Outer Glow programme from £1,499 per person sharing, including British Airways flights, transfers, full-board accommodation and treatments. healingholidays.com; 0208 131 9953

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Just a handful of reasons why Harvey Nichols & OXO Tower Brasserie are the places to be Words: Jake Buck

ASIAN AFTERNOON TEA OXO Tower Brasserie Let our chefs take your taste buds on a journey as you sample some classic and creative combinations. A perfect fusion of Eastern umami flavours alongside a selection of quintessential teatime bits. £30; available Monday to Friday, 3pm – 5pm and Saturdays & Sundays, 2pm – 4.30pm

HARVEY NICHOLS X THE ALLOTMENT Harvey Nichols, Manchester We’re partnering up with The Allotment Vegan Eatery for a one-off plant-based dinner. The evening will start with a cocktail and canapés on arrival and be followed by three courses of locally sourced vegan and gluten-free food. Friday 27th March, 7pm Tickets £35, with a vegan-wine flight for £10

WINE WEEKEND Harvey Nichols, Birmingham Join us for a long weekend of trying different wines. We’ll be offering glasses of our ownlabel Stellenbosch Ensemble 2018 and Grüner Veltliner 2017 wines for £4. Plus, book on to one of our masterclasses and enjoy six of our own-label wines and a cheeseboard to share. Saturday 25th April, 1pm, 3pm & 5pm Tickets £25 per person

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Celebrate the long weekend in style with three classic brunch dishes for £20 or three courses and a mini cocktail flight for £30. Plus, enjoy live music as you dine. Sunday 24th May, 12pm – 4pm

For more information, visit harveynichols.com/rewards