“How to Look After your Chickens� ...your essential, must have guide to keeping healthy, happy chickens...
CONTENTS page 3 page 4 page 5 page 6 page 8 page 9 page 11 page 12 page 13 page 16 page 20
Introduction Water Feed Shelter How to pick up a hen What to look for when buying a bird Parts of a Chicken Worming Chickens How do I know if my birds have external parasites? Egg Quality Moulting
DISEASE & ILLNESSES OF BIRDS page 21 page 22 page 23 page 24 page 25 page 26 page 27 page 28
Maerks Gumboro Disease (infectious bursal) Coccidiosis Infectious Bronchitis Mycoplasma Gallisepticum Egg Peritonitis Sour Crop Health Terms
INTRODUCTION There are five basic needs for a hen‌ 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Clean water Food Shelter Ability to act naturally (to scratch & run) Be safe from predators
The keeping of any hen comes down to two things; Routine and Reassurance (R & R). Routine – Hens stay calm when in a daily routine; anything out of the ordinary can disrupt them. Reassurance - When handling your hen it is important to hold her correctly, this leads to your hen being happy when being checked over.
WATER The water must be clean, changed daily or every other day as a minimum. An egg is 60% water so what the hen is drinking you are eating! Algae build up, stagnant water and water freezing all pose problems. Dirty water in areas of earth that has been scratched up into dust holes are normally soiled with faeces and after heavy rain the hens preferred drinking spot will be these holes. This carries a risk of overloading the hen with e-coli bacteria which is present in most hens in low numbers. Adequate water should be provided so that the hen never runs out so it is better to get too large a drinker that can see them through the day. Most drinkers on the market have red on them to attract the hen as hens are naturally attracted to this colour. Aim for your adult hens to drink between 300 and 500ml per hen each day. Daily water needs per 12 birds‌ Chicks; 1 to 7 days old Growers; 1 to 4 weeks Growers; 4 to12 weeks Hens; 12 weeks plus
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1 litre 2 litres 4 litres 6 litres
FEED Hens need a balanced feed ration to maintain egg production and a healthy weight. A young hen in full production will need a feed that releases energy over the course of the day and high protein content. Chicks should be started on crumb until between 6 and 8 weeks depending on breed then change to a rearer feed until at least 16weeks of age. Both chick crumb and rearer feeder should contain a coccistat (ACS) in its feeds when the hen is most vunerable to this disease. Use pelleted feed over meal or mash as it causes less wastage. Hens tend to pick out what they like and waste the rest leading to wild birds and vermin. Chicken feed also contains vitamin k the antidote to warfarin found in rat/mouse bait. Mixed corn is a good feed for occasional treats or for winter afternoon feeding where up to third of the ration can be fed. It is a good slow release energy food to help the hen go through a long cold night. Corn in summer when they are already picking at grass and any other greenery available will deter them from eating their laying pellets and suppress egg production. The law states that you cannot feed your chicken scraps, the reason for this is that disease can be passed to them by feeding scraps. The incidence of salmonella (which is transmissible to humans – zoonotic) is as high as 37 per cent in backyard flocks, whereas in the commercial units it is less than one percent. You can give your hen’s surplus greenery from your vegetable garden as long as these do not go via your kitchen – it is the kitchen where harmful (pathogenic) bugs can breed if food is not stored properly. Hens also carry campylobacter without any signs so make sure that the family wash their hands after touching the hens. Hens should have access to grit as this helps break down the feed.
SHELTER You need to provide adequate housing and shelter. Shade and shelter outside should be provided against weather and flying predators. Hens can manage with temperatures between freezing and 30 degrees either side of this will stress the hens. HOUSING Size - the floor area should be a minimum of 30cm by 30 cm for large birds and 20 x 20 for bantams. If you can give them slightly more space the better but not too much that they cannot keep the area warm in winter. Perch rails - should be broad with the top edges rounded. They should be the correct height for the breed, so that they can get on them easily and have room to stand on them. Perches should allow a minimum of 9” for large fowl and 6” for bantams. Remember though in harsh weather your hens will huddle to keep warm. They should be at the same height or higher than the nest boxes to avoid roosting in them. Nest boxes - should be located on the lowest level and 30cm x 30cm allowed for large fowl and 20cm x 20cm for bantams with one nest box per four hens. Ventilation - the hen should never be in a draught, but air moving through the top of the building is required all year round. This is vital to help prevent the build up of bacteria and condensation. Pophole - a low door which the hens use to go in and out of the house at will. Security - the house must provide protection from predators. One inch mesh over ventilation area will keep out all but the smallest predator. Cont…
Bedding - a good dust free bedding (marketed for chickens or horses is good). Avoid straw/hay and sawdust especially in a confined area such as the housing. Sawdust is usually dusty and can cause the birds breathing difficulties. It is also very likely to get into the birds eyes, causing irritation and infection. Although straw is used by some people it must be checked on a daily basis and must be turned over completely. If straw is left untouched, the top appearance will look clean and fresh while underneath it will sweat and create mould. It does not take long to give off spores that soon affect the birds’ respiratory systems. Straw is also an excellent haven for lice and mite. HOW MUCH ROOM? The more the better so that they can behave normally, scratch, dust bath, run and get away from each other. Small enclosed runs are good for short term confinement but cannot take the place of a larger run. The advantage with a smaller area is that it can be moved more often so allowing the grass to recover the disadvantage is that you then have to keep moving it!! A larger area that can be divided into two so that one half can be rested while one is in use is good. Or a flexinet electric fencing is ideal it can be moved easily and expanded upon giving the hens lots of space and can be electrified to deter predators. Foxes and badgers will kill hens so electric fencing or a secure area when not around needs to be provided. Buzzards, birds of prey, seagulls will all attack young hens especially if separated from the group and if constantly flying over stress the hens. Rats will kill chicks and carry diseases and fleas so make sure your hen house is as mouse and rat proof as possible and deter them by if possible sealing the food at night or taking away and making sure all eggs are removed daily from the nest boxes. Long grass in runs deters the hen from ranging freely, it is better to cut the grass on too large an area that have it too small and go muddy. If the grass is too long the hens tend to stay around the house more so damaging the ground in this area. Long grass is also a haven for ticks!
HOW TO PICK UP A HEN The best way is to firstly approach your hen and put a hand firmly on her back while pressing down lightly, this induces a squat, the hen thinks she is being trodden on by the male. Slide your fingers of your free hand under the bird, and with your fingers on either side of her legs, middle finger(s) between her legs, pick her up. Her head should point towards your elbow, her backside away from you with her legs pointed slightly away from you and then you can bring her in towards your chest where her wing is held down against you. She is now fully supported and will begin to relax. To help relax more small strokes under the beak (chin area) is normally soothing. This position leaves your other hand free to check the bird over.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN BUYING A BIRD There are many things to consider before purchasing new birds, once you have decided to keep chickens there are many questions you must ask yourself. Initially decide why you would like to keep chickens. It could be solely for eggs, to bring interest to your garden, as pets for the children or to breed and show. Look at the breeds and try to choose something which not appeals to you or the family, but a breed which is suited to the size of poultry house and your garden or the space available. Poultry auctions or markets are best avoided as you have no history or age of the bird, no follow through from the rearer or how they have been reared. Disease is also a concern, as many of these birds could be carrying a disease or even showing symptoms of a disease, some people are tempted to buy these birds and give them a good home by hoping to nurse them back to health. This is not a good idea as you may bring disease onto your premises and may find it difficult to control or eradicate. Quite often problem/ill or old hens are passed off this way, sometimes because the people responsible have no better knowledge or that they want to get rid of these hens quickly and conveniently.
Cont‌
Try to buy from a reputable rearer/breeder who vaccinates the stock and will go through the following points with you if unsure.
1. The hen should look alert and content, stand upright and be interested in its surroundings. 2. The eye should appear bright and clear, fully open and with no discharges. 3. Upon examination the wings should appear fully feathered with no signs of damage. 4. The chicken’s feet should appear clean and free of any sores or obvious infection. There should be no abnormal swellings or redness, the toe nails should be a normal shape and the pads underneath should be free of sores and cracks. 5. Upon examination of the vent the feather around the vent should be clean and not coated in diarrhoea or very loose droppings.
PARTS OF A CHICKEN
WORMING CHICKENS
The welfare of the birds is your responsibility and hens due to their outdoor foraging, are exposed to internal parasites on a daily basis. If your birds have a very large area to roam around, they may need worming two to three times a year. If they are confined in a small area, they may need worming every 6 – 8 weeks, so lifestyle is taken into account. There are two main products for worming, Flubenvet which is the only licensed chicken wormer, is a powder which goes in the feed for 7 days. Either break the pellets and mix the powder in or add a little vegetable oil or omega oil to the pellets to make the powder stick to the feed. The alternative is to use an organic wormer like vermex which you feed your hens for 3 days every month and is already in a pellet form. It comes with a sample bag, which you can place some chicken faeces in and send away FOC to Westgate laboratories. They will complete a worm egg count.
HOW DO I KNOW IF MY BIRDS HAVE EXTERNAL PARASITES? Handle each bird at least once a month and check under the tail area, first for lice (yellow, thin and about 3mm long or lice eggs (like granulated sugar (nits) attached to the base of the feather) – treat with louse powder if found, pull the feather off and destroy it and the nits. Then check for northern mite, a relative of the red mite but more dangerous as it lives on the bird all the time. Some louse powders will control mites if they contain pyrethrum. Check legs for scaly leg mites who burrow under the scales causing intense irritation and mounds of hard whitish lumps. The mites are easily killed by surgical spirit or petroleum jelly smeared on the legs, but the scales moult once a year, like feathers, so the legs may take up to 11 months to look smooth again.
The most common external parasite is the red mite which is a nocturnal mite and feasts on the hen at night although very small it can be seen by the naked eye being up to 0.7mm in size. It feeds by sucking the blood from its host. They tend to hide in crevices within the poultry house and come out at night to feed on the birds. Red mites appear pale grey in colour before they feed, then turn to bright red after feeding, however, they can be almost black in colour when full of blood. Cont‌
If they crawl onto your skin they are irritating and move off quickly they are an avian mite. Signs to look out for 1. Presence of grey/red mites around vent of birds and in housing, particularly crevices. 2. Birds are often restless due to the irritation. 3. May cause anaemia and death in young birds. 4. Loss of condition. 5. Pale comb and wattles. 6. Drop in egg production. 7. Blood spots on the egg shells.
Cont‌
Treatments Do not pressure wash your building before treatment as this just spreads the mites around. Do use a pressure sprayer and apply poultry shield which is a disinfectant and red mite control up into the cracks and crevices of the building also remembering to check the roof area. The main infestation area will be around the ends of the perch rails and nest boxes where the hens are sleeping at night and the easiest and quickest route for the mite to travel to the hen. By the time it has reached outlying areas you will have a heavy infestation. Leave for a few days and repeat, this leaves time for any eggs to have hatched. Leave to dry then use a diatom powder which works by drying out the mite and cutting it up, but takes 3 – 5 days for this reaction to occur. Burning the bedding or moving it well away from the birds is essential as any not killed will travel back to the hen house. Straw bedding gives the mites a place to hide by crawling up the straw shaft.
EGG QUALITY There is nothing more rewarding than picking up a warm, fresh laid egg with a clean, smooth shell and then cracking it to reveal a rich yolk and a clear, firm white. However, this is not always the case and there are various reasons, usually connected to disease or stress to explain why defects may arise. These may be internal or external. The older the hen gets the more likely there will be egg quality issues and fewer eggs laid, this is quite normal. Egg shell colour will vary between breeds and generally the colour will be white, tinted, a shade of brown, blue or green. It may well be a good idea to check what colour your particular breed lay to avoid any concern regarding shell colour when they come into lay. Firstly it is important to have a system of knowing how old the eggs are from your birds, so marking them with a date in pencil or storing in labelled boxes is a good idea. An egg is considered still good for up to four weeks from date of lay. A fresh egg should have no smell, a firm round thick yolk and a thick white which appears raised if cracked onto a plate. As the egg ages the yolk absorbs the white and the white gets thin and runny. There can be quite a variation in size and shape when a pullet comes into lay, the first egg which is laid is often misshapen or very small, then as time goes on they generally become more uniform. Eggs are not necessarily laid every day, but a succession of eggs before the bird ceases laying for a time is called a clutch.
Cont‌
Common problems Cracks Problem
Large cracks, hairline cracks, star cracks or holes which result in a broken shell membrane.
Cause
Incorrect nutrition, especially regarding vit d3 and calcium. Infectious bronchitis. Egg eating by the birds. High shed temperatures. Flock age.
Control
Feed correct ration for age. Give supplement of d3 as advised by a vet. Follow an effective vaccination programme. Collect eggs frequently. Give adequate ventilation. Replace aged birds with pullets if it is an option.
Thin shelled or shell less eggs Problem
Eggs which are laid with no shell, just the membrane like an egg in a bag.
Cause
Often laid by pullets coming into lay, particularly if matured early and the shell gland has not yet developed. Defective shell gland. Stress. Infectious bronchitis.
Control
Control feeding on approach to point of lay. Correct nutrition for age of bird. Cull birds which persistently produce such eggs as there is no cure. Reduce disturbances in poultry houses – good management. Follow an effective vaccination programme.
Cont‌
Rough shells Problem
Shells with rough patches or areas, often which can be rubbed off. Common in early lay as a result of double ovulation, which produces one shell less egg and another with extra shell deposits.
Cause
Defective shell gland disturbances at time of lay can cause egg to be held over for another day. Disease such as infectious bronchitis. Lighting pattern changes. Water depravation.
Control
Reduce any stress to birds in or around the poultry house or access by other livestock and vermin. Follow an effective vaccination programme. If using artificial light to prolong day length ensure there are no sudden increase in day length as pullets came into lay. Check daily that water is in place and drinkers are functioning properly.
Misshapen eggs Problem
Where shells differ from the normal smooth ovular shape, flat sides, lumps, wobbles etc. common when pullets come into lay or with hens late in lay (mature birds).
Cause
Immature shell gland. Defective shell gland. Infectious bronchitis. Stress.
Control
Controlled feeding on approach to point of lay to offset sexual maturity by a couple of weeks. Cull birds which persistently lay such eggs as there is no cure. Follow an effective vaccination programme. Reduce stress such as overcrowding and disturbances in or around the poultry house. Cont‌
Mottled or glassy shells Problem
Parts of the shell appear translucent or glassy giving a mottled effect often thin shelled.
Cause
Overcrowding. Disease. High humidity in layer house.
Control
Avoid overstocking. If possible ensure that the layer stock come from apparent stock vaccinated for infectious bursal (gumboro) disease Ensure good ventilation.
Stained eggs Problem
Shell is mottled or striped with blood or faeces
Cause
Blood from prolapsed cloaca, cannibalism or vent pecking. Bloods spots or stripes. Faecal contamination.
Control
Avoid getting pullets too fat as they have difficulty laying the egg as the incidence of prolapse will therefore increase. Red mite infestation, as the egg is laid into the nest box the red mites get squashed and therefore leave deposits on the shell surface. Keep nest boxes clean and collect eggs frequently.
MOULTING Autumn and winter are traditionally the times of year when hens’ production slows down or stops altogether which is attributed to day length. It is light which stimulates a hen into lay and light which slows it up. It is completely natural, hens need a laying rest every year and it is something which normally coincides with their annual moult. Replacing the feathers is an important event but because feathers like eggs are high in protein, the bird has to prioritise. It is a stressful time for the chickens so it is important that you make sure that their lives remain comfortable as possible. Increased stress levels can make the birds more susceptible to disease and infection, so it is vital that your husbandry routines are up to scratch. Feeding a dry seaweed supplement at this time helps, it is high in iodine which promotes keratin growth so promoting growth of the feather so helping the hen get over their moult.
DISEASES & ILLNESSES OF BIRDS MAREKS A chicken herpes virus in which hens are at risk from as soon as they hatch. The incubation period is 6 – 8 days following a viral challenge but clinical signs may take weeks to appear. The virus is shed via the feather follicles and can remain in the environment for long periods of time. Vaccination usually takes place at hatch and will need 7 – 10 days post vaccination for immunity to establish. Vaccination does not solely prevent Mareks Disease if it meets a severe challenge – with added stresses such as unstable temperatures, other disease challenges present at the same time and overcrowding, the likelihood is greater. Two forms of Mareks – Classical – denoting splayed legs, caused by the cells on the surface of the nerve becoming cancerous and leading to swelling of the sciatic nerve. Birds will go off their legs, due to partial paralysis and are unable to feed and drink: eventually dying of starvation and dehydration. Acute – tends to form tumours on the internal organs causing enlargement of the organ involved and replacement of functional tissue with non functional cells until a point is reached when they can no longer function and the birds therefore dies.
Classic paralysis with mareks
GUMBORO DISEASE (infectious bursal) It is caused by a virus which infects the bursa of fabriculius and other organs of the birds leading to high mortality in chickens of varying ages but usually young birds. As the bursa is involved in the production of white blood cells responsible for antibody production, infection can lead to immuno suppression, poor growth and secondary infections such as coccidiosis. It is long lasting in the environment and spread in faeces, dust, wind and other vectors such as pets, humans and vehicles. It is difficult to disinfect in a poultry shed and will stay in the soil for years. Signs – it usually affects young chickens between 2 and 7 weeks. Diagnosis is by post mortem or blood testing. Control - high level of bio security and the use of vaccines. There is no treatment for the virus although antibiotics to control secondary infection are often used.
COCCIDIOSIS A common disease caused by a parasitic protozoa which damages intestines resulting in poor performance and mortality. Signs – depending on severity, birds can become withdrawn and display a characteristic posture as shown.
Ruffled feathers, head sunk and dropped wings, occurring between 3 – 6 weeks of age. Less sever outbreaks may display few signs, generally combinations of the following – Droppings containing blood, orange or red mucus or diarrhoea. Ruffled hunched posture. Weight loss, loss of appetite and interest in water. Anaemia, shown by pale sunken face or wattles. Slow and possible uneven growth. Weak, listless birds. Huddling and discontentment. Spread – Coccidiosis is spread by litter/dropping from effective birds, used equipment, humans, wild birds/animals and poor hygiene. It thrives in warm, damp conditions. Treatment – needs to be treated by a vet asap as there will be a high mortality relatively quickly.
INFECTIOUS BRONCHITIS Is caused by the corona virus which leads to damage of the upper respiratory tract and oviducts. The virus can also infect the intestine and kidneys. There are many different strains and the virus works with other pathogens to cause disease in the bird. In laying hens it can cause:
Egg drop Poor egg shell quality (wrinkled) Respiratory disease and death Control – cannot be treated with antibiotics and best control is by vaccination.
MYCOPLASMA GALLISEPTICUM The route of infection is through the conjunctiva or upper respiratory tract. The incubation period is 6 – 10 days. Transmission can be through the egg from the breeder birds or directly bird to bird through dust, feathers, aerosols, faeces and vectors such as equipment. Birds can recover from mg but will remain infected for life, subsequent stresses may cause re-occurrence of the disease.
Signs: Coughing/sneezing Nasal and ocular discharge Poor productivity Slow growth/stunting Leg problems Mortality Treatment - there are some antimicrobial treatments available which will help in the control of mg, but they will often not eradicate it from the site. Prevention - Biosecurity and good management practices are essential. Vaccinationed birds and reducing exposure to wild birds.
EGG PERITONITIS This is probably the most common disease of chickens and is a result of an egg yolk initially moving into the abdomen rather than being captured by the fimbrae at the top of the oviduct. In a normal egg cycle, the ovary releases a single ovum (yolk) which is picked up by the fimbrae. The bird only has one oviduct and the egg passes down through the oviduct picking up albumin (egg white), the egg membrane and then the egg shell, before being passed out through the cloaca. The cloaca also has the ureters from the kidneys and the rectum pass urine and faeces through the same exit point. In birds coming into lay and birds which are stressed for various reasons there is the possibility that the ovum moves into the abdomen where it can create a sterile chronic inflammatory reaction which looks similar to scrambled egg when examined on post mortem. The bird will become ill from the reaction and may die. The bird is depressed with a swollen hard abdomen and will often die whatever the treatment.
SOUR CROP Sour crop is a condition of yeast infection in the crop leading to thickening of the crop wall, dilation of the crop and birds losing condition and possibly dying.
The cause is often difficult to determine but you should check the condition of the feed store and always ensure birds have fresh feed. There is no specific treatment for sour crop. The crop can also become impacted in which case removing the food and manually massaging the crop is of use. In many cases a dilated crop is difficult to treat and the prognosis is not good.
HEALTH TERMS
Moult A normal behaviour annually the feathers will be lost and replaced. Trap nest The process of trapping a hen into her nest box for monitoring. Urates Solid and white urine Zoonotic A description of diseases that can be passed to humans Withdrawal period This is a legally determined amount of time between the bird having its last dose of medicine and its meat or produce being fit for human consumption.