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Travel

Palermo

On the north-west coast of Sicily, Palermo nestles around a lovely natural harbour looking out to the Tyrrhenian Sea. In this deep-water bay surrounded by mountains, myriad civilisations came and went, each golden age leaving its mark on the city.

With its palaces and churches, the capital claims several UNESCO sites, starting with the medieval cathedral mirroring the city’s history over the centuries. Now in neo-classical style, the splendid interior can be complemented by a ‘rooftop walk’ with panoramic views. Other must-sees include the Baroque gem of Gesu Church and the Palatin Chapel, famous for Byzantine mosaics, in the Norman Palace. A former residence of Sicilian rulers, this has been beautifully restored and is the seat of Sicily’s Regional Assembly. Also built for royal pleasure were Cuba and Zisa, superb examples of Norman architecture in Eastern style. But most intriguing perhaps is the Chinese Pavilion, designed in 1799 for the future King of the Two Sicilies. Lord Nelson and his mistress were among the guests.

Heritage aside, Palermo has a lot to offer along its tree-lined avenues. There’s luxury shopping in the high street but the heart of town is around Politeama, a favourite place to meet family or friends on the spacious piazzas that seem to flow into each other. Visitors gaze at the nearby theatres, Garibaldi with its circular colonnade and triumphal arch and Massimo, the largest opera house in Italy, but the locals just like to sit in the shade and watch the world go by. They call it ‘piazza culture’ and this is the time to sip a cool drink on a café terrace or feast on glorious Sicilian ice cream. Yet the prettiest square, they say, is Piazza Pretoria with its monumental fountain festooned in nude classical statues.

It’s the highlight in the historic district, an enticing maze of lanes leading to the street markets of Vucciria, awash with melons, peaches, tomatoes, aubergines, herbs, walnuts and more, plus delicious orange juice squeezed on the spot.

Potted plants pop up along the cobbles, washing hangs from the balconies and here and there a secret chapel might just take your breath away. One of the best is the Oratorio di Santa Cita, dripping in gleaming white stucco with angels and playful cherubs.

Within walking distance, the Botanical Garden invites you to relax among water features, palms, shrubs and some 12,000 species of plants. Most exciting is the giant fig tree with aerial roots, and you might spot the parrots that escaped from Via Giulia, the city’s oldest park, loved for its marble sundial and alcoves in Moorish style. Now you can almost hear the waves as the promenade beckons along the sea, laced in meandering paths and grassland full of wild flowers. Boats glisten in the marina, rigging tinkles and, in the fishing harbour, men mend their nets on a flotilla of blue boats. Then just out of town you will find turquoise water, tingling sand and fragrant hills with fabulous views.

By Solange Hando