Made in
Mexico
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Introduction They say that Mexico is a country which no one ever wants to leave. Every year, millions of tourists pass through, and Mexicans jovially warm that a part of them will want to remain behind forever. Most visitors are vacationing North Americans who wind up on the brilliant and blue beaches of Cancun, Tulum, Cozumal and of course Isla Mujeres. Of course who can forget about the famous ruin, Chichén Itzá. The beaches of course, are among the world’s best but those who venture inland are rewarded with the true soul of Mexico, has always resided firmly in the interior. Mexico has always been graced with an usually warm temperature climate year round. One of the most imprortant thing to remember is that the Mexican summer is also the rainy season, although the rain rarely lasts more than a few hours, and typically arrives in the late afternoon.
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CONTENTS
6 32 30
20 42
44
18
54 56
CancĂşn 6 Bullfight in Mexico Where to Eat? Where to Stay? What to Do?
8-11 12-13 14-15 16-17
Isla Mujeres 18 Shopping in Isla Mujeres Where to Eat? Where to Stay? What to do?
20-23 24-25 26-27 28-29
Chichen Itza About Chichen Itza Where to Eat? Where to Stay? What to do?
30 32-33 36-37 38-39 40-41
Cozumel 42 Food in Cozumel What to Eat? Where to Stay? What to do?
44-47 48-49 50-51 52-53
Tulum History of Tulum Ruins Where to Eat? Where to Stay? What to do?
54 56-59 60-61 62-63 64-65
Cancún Cancún is one of the most important tourist destination is Mexico and one of the most recognized worldwide. Located in the state of Quintana Roo and the region of the Yucatan Peninsula, has a semitropical climate. And an average temperature of 80˚ F, but reaches a high 95˚ F during the summer, sunny days throughout most of the year. Bathed by 6
the turquoise Caribbean waters, Cancún offers the unparalleled beauty of its white sand beaches where you can practice all kinds of water sports and acvities: snorkelling, scuba diving, in wave runner of parachute, among others. Sunbathe or enjoy the srvices and amenities offered in the impressive hotel zone, which is more than 18 mi extension. You
will find villlas, five star hotels, exclusive resorts and spas, which is ore than 30 kim extension. Modern day shopping centers and more than 500 restaurants offering the best of national and international cuisine as well numerous bars and discos where the party continues untill late at night. Great place for Spring breakers to come. 7
“Definitely not an event for the squimish of the animal activist.”
Bullfight in Mexico
Step-by-step Play-by-play
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Bullfighting is a known as Corrida de Toros (Race Of Bulls or La Fiesta (The Festival). In traditional corrida, three matadores (killers), each fight two bulls, each of which is at least four years old an weights about 460-600 kg. Each matador has six assistants two picacores (lancers) mounted on horseback three banderilleros (flagmen) who among with the matadors are collectively known as toreros (bullgihters) and a mozo de espada (sword page). Collectively they comprise an cuadrilla (entourage). The modern corrida is highly ritualized with three distinct stages or tercios.
First step is the bull enters the ring to be tested for his ferocity by the matador and the three banderilleros with the magenta and gold capote (dress code). The tercio de varas (the learning third), and the matador first confronts the bull with the capote, on sering the behavior of the bull white performing tanda (series of passes) to impress the crowd. next, a picador will enter the arena on horseback armed with a vara (lance). To protect the horse from the bulls horns, the norse will be surrounded by a peto which is a very protective mattress live covering. At this point, the picador stabs just behind the morillo, a mound of muscle on the fighting bull’s neck, which weakens the neck muscles and leading to the animal’s first loss of blood. The manner in which the bull charges the norse provides important clues to the marador about which side the bull favors. If the picador is successfull, the bull will hold its head and horns lower during the following stages of the fight. This makes the bull’s charges less dangerous and more reliable; enabling the marador to perfom his skills without getting hurt.
Prior to 1930, the horse did not wear any protection, and the bull would usually disembowel the horse during this stage. Untill this change was instituted, the number of horses killed during a fight was higher than the numebr of bulls killed. In the next stage, the rercio de muerte or the third of death, the matador will re-enter the ring along wiht a small red cape and sword. He will use his red cape to attrache the bull in a crowd entertainign series of passes which serve the dual purpose of wearing the animal down for kill and producing a beautiful display of faena. The faena can serve as the entire performance with the muleta and it is usually broken down into tandas, “series” , of passes. The faena will end with a final series of passes, in which the matador with a muleta (sword) attempts to manuver the bull into a position to stab it right between the shoulder blades and through the aorta of the heart. The act of thrusting the sword is called the estocada. 9
If the matador has perfomed paticularly well, the crowd may petition the president to award the matador an ear of the bull by waving white handkerchiefs. If his performance was exceptional, he will award two, and in certain more rural rings a tail can still be awarded. very rarely, if the public or the matador believe that the bull has fought bravely, they may petition the president of the plaza to grand the bull an indulto before the tercio de muerte. This is when the bull’s life is spared and allowed to leave the ring alive and return to the rance where it came from. Then the bull becomes a stud bull for the rest of his life. If the audience feels the matador has performed well, they may throw single red roses into the arena for the three banderilleros (flagmen) to collect.
He may also demostrate his domination over the bull by caping it, especially close to his body. 10
It is a known common misconception that the color red should anger the bulls, but the bulls, in face are colorblind. The cape is thought to be red to mask the bull’s blood, althought this became a matter of tradition.
The spectacle of bullfighting has existed in one form or another since ancient days. A contest of some sort is depicted in a wall painting unearthed at Knossos in Crete, dating from 2000 BC. It shows acrobats confronting a bull, grabbing its horns as it charges and vaulting over its back. Bullfights were popular spectacles in ancient Rome but it was in the Iberian Peninsula that these contests were fully developed. The Moors from North Africa who overran Andalusia in AD 711 changed bullfighting significantly from the brutish, formless spectacle practised by the conquered Visigoths to a ritualistic occasion observed in connection with feast days on which the conquering Moors, mounted on highly trained horses, confronted and killed the bulls. As bullfighting developed the men on foot, who by their capework aided the horsemen in positioning the bulls, began to draw more attention from the crowd and the modern corrida began to take form.
Where to eat? Cancún attracts chefs-as well as visitors-from around the globe, so the area has choices to suit just about everyone. Both Zona Hotelera nad El Centro have plenty of great places to eat. Manus more upscale spots change on a regular basis usually every three to six months to expect ot be surprised. The restaurants in the Parque de las Palapas, just off Aveinda Tulum, serve expertly prepared Mesican food. Key to eating well is to find the local haunts, which are in El Centro.
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Club Grill $$$ Include starters like coconut infused scallops and lobster cream soup or main courses like chipotle roastduck or the seared sea bass with the exquisite artichoke ravioli. Address: Blvd. Kukulcan, Petormo del Rey 36 Phone: 998/881-0808 Le Basilic $$$ The squid with sweet garlic lobster makes the perfect opener. The oven-roasted robalo fish stuffed with lime and perfumed with fresh thyme is supremely satisfying. Address: Fiesta Americana, Blvd. Kukulcan, Lote 6 Phone: 998/881-3200 Ext:3380 Mesón del Vecindar $$ Resembles a Swiss A-frame house. The menu has all kinds of cheese and beef fondues along with terrific salads, fresh pastas, and baked goods. Breakfasts are hearty and economical, and very popular with the locals, it also has a great bakery. Address: Av. Uxmal 23, SM 3 Phone: 998/884-8900
Labná $$ The Papadzules-tortillas stuffed with eggs and are covered with pumpkin sauce are a delicious starter; try the poc chuc, tender pork loin in a sour orange sauce or the Longania de Valladolid, the traditional sausages straight from the village of Valladolid. Address: Av. Margaritas 29 Phone: 998/885-3158 Ty-Coz $ This restaurant serves an excellent continental breakfast withcroisssants and freshly brewed coffee. Also Lunches are a combination of sandwiches and salads served on freshly baked baguettes. Address: Av. Tulum, Sm 2 Phone: No Phone Bisquests Obregon $ Begin your day early with hearty Mexican classics like huevos rancheros (eggs sunnyside up on tortillas, covered with tomato salsa). The cafe con leche (coffee with hot milk) is also delicious. Address: Av. Náder 9, S 2 Phone: 998/887-6876
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Where to stay? For extreme luxury and amenities, the Zona Hotelera is the perfect place to stay. The Boulevard Kukulcán, which is the district’s main throughfare is artfully landscaped with green palm trees, tiered pools, sculpted bushes and waterfalls. The hotels take a lot of pride in themselves on delivering tons of endless opportunities for fun, most of them have water sports, golf, tennis, kid’s clubs, fitness centers, pas, shopping, entertainment, dining, and tours and excursions. Hotels here are expensive. In the modest Centro, local color tend ot outweighs facilites. The hotels there are basic and much less expensive that those in the Zone.
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Le Meridien $$$ Rooms have ocean views. The many thoughful details such as different temperaturs in the swimming pools-make a stay here truly special. The Spa del Mar is known to be the best in the Zona Hotelera. Address: Blvd. Kukulcán, Lote 37 Phone: 800/543-4300 Ritz Carlton Cancún $$$ This hotel’s style is so European that you may well forget you’re in Mexico. Wall-to-wall carpeting, large balconies overlooking the Caribbean ocean. Address: Blvd Kukucán Phone: 998/881-0808 Vilas Tacul $$ Surrounded by well-trimmed lawns and landscaped gardens. Each has a kitchen, between two and five bedrooms, tile floors, colonial-style furnitures, and tinwork mirrors. Less expensive room without kitchen are also available, but they are far from the beach. Address: Blvd. Kukulcán Phone: 998/883-0000 Suites Sina $ Each unit has a comfortable furniture, a kitchenette, a dining-living room with a sofa bed, a balcony or a terrace, and double neds. Close to a golf course. Address: Calle Quetzal 33 Phone: 998/883-1017 Hotel Colonial $ A charming fountain and garden are at the center of this hotel’s colonial-style buildings. Rooms are simple but comfortable, each with adouble bed, dresser, and bathrooms. Five minutes away from all teh downtown concerts clubs, restaurants, shop, and attractions. Address: Av. Tulipanes 22 Phone: 998/884-1535
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What to do? Cancún is one of the water sports capitals of the world, and with the Caribbean on one side of the island and the sitll waters of Laguna Nichupte on the other, it’s no wonder. The most popular activites are snokeling and diving along the coral reef just off the coast, where beautiful schools of colorful tropical fish and other marine cratures live. If you would like to view the mysterious underwater world but don’t want to get your feet wet, a glass-bottom boat of “submarine” is the ticket, you can also fish, sail, jet ski, parasail, or windsurf. 16
Fishing
Marine Barracuda Offers deep sea fishing for any level. Address: Blvd. Kukulcán, Zona Hotelera Phone: 998/885-34444 Marina Punta del Exta Offers boat tours and is right in front of the Hyatt Cancún Caribe. Address: Blvd. Kukucán, Zona Hotelera Phone: 998/883-2011
Nightlife
Azucar Showcases the best Latin American bands. Go just to watch thelocals dance (the beautiful people tend to turn up here really late). Proper dress is required. Address: Dreams Cancún resort and Spa Phone: 998/848-7000
Hacienda Sisal Is the place for ballroom dancing. Its terrific live band plays golden oldies, romantic favorites and latest hits. There’s a dinner menu, too, if you get hungry. Sabor Latino Has a live salsa band and lots of locals to show you new dance moves. Wednesday is Ladies Night, when Chippendales dancers perform in bow ties and not much else. Address: Av. Tulum, Plaza las Americas, 2nd fl. Phone: 998/877-7894
Boating and Sailling
Aqua Fun Maintains a large fleet of water toys. Address: Blvd. Kukulcán, Zona Hotelera Phone: 998/885-2930
AquaWorld You can rent boots and water toys, offers parasailling and tours abroad a submarine, an alternate to snorkeling. The guide can also recommend the best places to stay. Address: Blvd. Kukulcán, Zona Hotelera Phone: 998/885-2930 Aqua World You can rent boats and water toys. Offeres Parasailling and tours abroad a submarine. The guide can also recommend the best places to stay. Address: Blvd. Kukulcán, Zona Hotelera Phone: 998/849-7343 El Embaracadero The marina complex at Playa Linda, is the departure point for ferries to Isla Mujeres and several tour boats. Address: Blvd. Kukulcán, Zona Hotelera Phone: 998/849-7343
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Isla Mujeres Located off the coast of Cancún, in teh state of Quintana Roo, Isla Mujeres is one of the main islands of th Mexican Caribbean. The island is 5 mile long and 1.2 mile wife. It has a preasant tropical climate, with an average temperature of 81˚ F. On this island, which is rich in culture and natural resources, you’ll find nemerous tourist attractions, including braches with fine sand, arche18
ologists ruins like the Templo de Ixchel, and many historic buildings, such as the Hacienda Mundaca. For outdoor recreational activities you an visist Parque Marino Garrón (Garrafón Marine Park), the ideal place to go scuba diving or snorkling in coral reef areas inhabited by hundreds of colorful fish. The island has very top-notch hotels with beach clubs offering amazing views of the Ca-
ribean Sea. In the downtown area you’ll find a wide variety of stores where you can buy all kinds of Mexican souveniers, such as beachwear, t-shirts and crafts made of wood and conch shells. As for the cuisine, the restaurants serve international and local fare. At night, especially in teh bars and nightclubs, you can enjoy reggae untill the wee hours of the morning. 19
Shopping in Isla definitely was a treat for us and our kids.
Gold and Silver Jewelry
Specifications in precious stones such as sapphires, tanzanite, and amber in a variety of settings. Address: Av. Hidalgo between Avs. Morelos and Francisco Madero. Phone: No phone
Artesanias Lupita
Look for beautiful Mexican ceramics and onyx jewelry. They also have an excellent selection of beaded jewelry. You also have an excellent selection of beaded jewelry. You also have to option to customize your own necklace, bracelet, earring, etc. Makes a great gift for any one in your family. Some of the pieces can be customized to your size. Address: Av. Hidalgo 16 Phone: No phone
Artesanias Arcoiris
Has beautiful and detailed Mexican blankets and other handicrafts. Staffers here also will braid hari. In the Aetesanias Market. Many of the local artists display their works, where you can find plenty of bargains.
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Hortensia
For custom-made chlothing. Hers is the last stall on the left after you come through the market entrace. You can choose from bright Mexican fabrics and then pick a pattern for a skirt, shirt, shorts, or a dress; Hortensia will sew it up for your within a day or two. You can also buy off-the-rack designs. Address: Avs. Matamoros and Arq. Carlos Lazo Phone: No phone
Great gifts for the kids
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These hand made jewelry made from coconut shells and sea-shells makes an excellent for any one, any age, any sex. You can even get them custom made to your personal liking.
Joyeria Martiz
Sells jewelry from Taxco (Mexicot’s silver capital) and crafts from Oazaca at reasonable prices. Address: Av. Hidalgo at reasonable prices. Phone: 998/877-0331
Van Cleef & Arpels
Stocks rings bracelets, necklaces in 18K gold. Many of their designs are innovative, prices are often lower than the stores in teh United States. Address: Avs Juarez and Morelos Phone: 998/877-0331
“Having an easy to fol-
low shopping guide to all the stores in Isla Mujeres made out souvenier shopping experience so much easy. We found gifts for all our friends and family, and for every age group. Everyone was extremely happy with the souvenirs we got for them.”
De Corazon
Has a wide variety of jewelry, t-shirts, and personal care products for everyone. Address: Between Avs. Hidalgo and Guerrero Phone: 998/877-0331
Gladys Galdamex
Carries Isla-designed and -manufactured clothing and accessories for both men and women, as well as bags and jewelry of all sorts. Address: Ae. Hidalgo 14 Phone: 998/877-0320
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The Silver Factory
Has veriety of designer pieces as recuded prices. Address: Between Avs. Juarez and Morelos Phone: 998/877-0331
Casa del Arte Mexicano
Has a large selection of Mexican handicrafts, including ceramics and silver jewelry. Address: Av. Hidalgo 16 Phone: No phone
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Where to eat? Dining on the Isla is a casual affair. Restaurants tend to serve simple meals: like seafood, pizza, salads, and suthentic Mexican dishes, prepared by the local cooks. Fresh ingredients and hospitable waiters make up for the island’s lack of elaborate menus and master chefs. It’s usually cash only in many of the restaurants. Locals often eat their main meal. Locals often eat their main meal during siesta hours, between 1 and 4 pm, and then have a light dinner in the evening, unless stated otherwise. Restaurants are open dailyfor lunch and dinner. Some restaurants are open late and close early Sunday; others are closed Mondays.
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Fayne’s $$$
The vibe at this brightly painted spot is hip and energetic. best known for its terrific cocktails (don’t miss the mango margaritas), this funky restaurant serves good island fare such as Tex-Mex sandwiches, garlic shrimp, calamari stuffed with spinach, and grilled snapper. The well stocked bar has a colorful tile “aquarium” underneath. They have a great selection of imported beers. Address: Av. Hidango12 A Phone: 998/877-0528
Los Amigos $$$
This isleño eatery lives up to its name, once you’ve settled at one of the tables, the staff treats you like a friend it used to be known mainly for its superb pizza, the menu has grown to include excellent fish, mean, pasta, and vegetarian dishes as well.
The steak Roquefort and garlic shrimp are sure bets. Make sure you save room for the rich chocolate cake or flambéed crepes. Our customers say it’s the best. Address: Av. Hidalgo Phone: 998/877-0624
Los Aluzes Cafe $
The perfect spot for an early morning or late-night capppuchino (it opens at 6:30 am and closes at 10pm), this place also has terrific desserts and baked goods. The New York Cheesecake and Triple Fudge turtle Brownies are especially decadent. There’s also a great selection of exotic teas, and there’s locally made jewelry for sale. If you want the cafe’s famousbanana bread, get there early-it usually sells out by 10 am. Address: Av. Matamorros 87 Phone: 998/877-3498
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Where to stay? Isla hotels focus on providing a relaxed tranquil beach vacation. Many have simple rooms, usually with ceiling fans, and some have air-conditioning, but few have TV’s or phones. Generally, modest budget hotels can we found in town, the expensive hotels are around Ounta Norte or the peninsula near the lagoon. Local travel agents can provide useful information abotu luxury.
Hotel Secreto $$$
It’s beautiful, it’s famous, it’s trés, trés, chic. But if you’re looking for a warm atmosphere, this may not be the place for you. Rooms have floor to ceiling windows, veiled king-size four poster beds, and balconies over looking Half Moon Bay. Mexican artworks looks bold against dominantly white color scheme, and a small, intimate dining room sits alongside a small ocean-side pool. Address: Sección rocas, Half Moon Beach Phone: 998/877-1039
Cabaños Maria del Mar $$
Rooms in the “Castle Section” have minimalist decor and are the brightese but face the street. Thatchrooffed cabanas by the pool are private but dark, white the beachfront rooms in teh three-story “Tower Sectino” have very little privacy due to teh poor soundproofing. Address: Av. Arq. Carlos Lazo 1 Phone: 998/877-0179
Hotel Posada del Mar $$
Bungalow rooms, which face the pool, and the stone archways and gardens that surround it, and remodeled in the main buildings which have patios or balconies and face the beach. Address: Av. Rueda Median 15A Phone: 998/877-0044
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What to do? Isla Mujeres offers many water activities for all ages. Beautiful white sand beaches where you can rent water toys, kayaks and snorkeling gear. Diving and snorkeling in the crystal clear turquoise waters, sailing, fishing and swimming with the Dolphins and Sharks. Isla has something for everyone. Explore the natural wonders of the Mexican Caribbean. A visit to the Isla is not complete without renting a bike, moped or gold cart and exploring the entire island, You can visit the Turtle Farm and see the majestic sea turtles.
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Boating: Puerto Isla Mujeres
Is a full-service marina for vessels upt o 175 feet. Srvices include morning, fuel station, a 150ton lift, customs assistance, hookups, 24-hour security and laundry. Charges $1000.00 for a day-long trip for four people. Address: Puerto de Abrigo, Laguna Makaz Phone: 998/287-3340
Fishing Sea Hawk Divers
Runs Fishing trips-for barracuda, snapper, and smaller fish-that start $200 for a half day. Feel free to tag along if you just want to lay around in teh baot. Great way to relax in the middle of the ocea. Address: Av. Arq. Carlos Lazo Phone: 998/877-0296
Captain Tony Garcia
Offers tours on his boat the Guadalupana. He charge $50 per person for trips to Isla Contoy; his rates of snorkeling depend on the number of people and leght of time. Address: Calle Matamoros 7A Phone: 998/877-0229
Dive Sites
Los Manchones Most area dive sports are also described in detail in Dive Mesico magazine, which is available in many local shops. The coral reefts at El Garafรณn National Park have suffered tremendously because of human negligence. Isla offers a good place for learning to dive. Offshore, there are excellent diving and snorkeling at Xiaches reef due north on the way to Isla Contoy.
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Chichén Itza The ancient Mayan capital of Chinén Itzá is an archaeological zone in the eastern region of the state of Yucatan. It lies 74 mi east of Merida on Highway 180, in the direction of Cancún. the climate is hot and dry, with an average temperature of 93˚ F. This place was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, will take you back in time to the pre-Hispanic era as you discover the secrets awaiting you int he most important structures. At El Castillo, natural phenomenon occurs 30
each year during the spring equinox: sunlight creates a shadow image of a plumed serpent descending down the pyramid’s stairs. This unique experience draws hundreds of tourists from all over the world. Anther very important structure is the Juego de Pelota, the largest ball court in the Mesoamerica. It measures 554 feet in lenght and 231 ft in width. There is the Observatorio, of Caracol, because of the interior’s round spiral shape. You can also visit the Cenote Sagrado, a
large sinkhole that measures 198 feet in diameter. Many treasures hae been found, such as jade objects rings, necklaces, and gold, as well as the bones of children and young women which were thrown into the water as an offering to Chaac, who was the Mayan rain God. Chichén Itzá is not only an ideal destination, not only for those who enjoy ancient archaeology and history, but also for those who like history and the charming allure of an anceint civilizations. 31
1) Tzompantil: Of all the monuments, the Tzompantil is the closest to what one would find in Mexican Plateau. This monument, a low, flat platform, is surrounded with carved depictions of human skulls. 2) Cenote Sagrado: One of the impressive piece is the Cenote Sagrada, which is 2000ft in diameter, and sheer cliffs that drop to the water table some 89ft below. The Cenote Sagrado was a place of pilgrimage for the ancient Mayan people who would conduct many sacrifices during times of drought Archeological investigations support this as thousands of objects have been removed from the bottom of the cenote including material such as gold, jade, obsidian, shell, cloth, and skeletons of children and men.
3) Group of Thousand Columns: A series of what are today exposed columns. The columns are in three distinct sections: an east group, that extends the lines of the front of the Temple of Warriors; a north group, which runs along the south wall of the Temple of Warriors and contains pillars with carvings of solders in bas-reliev, and a north east group, which was apparently formed a small temple of Warriors, which contains a rectangular shape decorated with carvings of people or Gods, as well as animals and serpents. 4) Ossario: Like El Castillo, this step pyramid temple dominates the platform, only on a smaller scale. Just like its larger neighbor, it has four sides with staircasses on each side. There is a Cenote Sagrado
Serpant’s Head
Ossario
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El Caracol (The Snail), one of the few round buildings build by the Maya, with a spiral staircase within. Scholars now know that Maya priests studied the planets and the stars. They were also able to predict the orbits of the moon, Venus and appearence of comets and eclipses. temple on top, but unlike El Castillo, at the center is an opening into the pyramid which leads to natural cave 39 ft below. When Edward H. Thompson excavated this cave in the late 1800’s, and he found several skeletons and artifacts such as jade beads, so he named the structure The High Priests’ Temple. But archeologists today believe neither that the structure was tomb nor that he personages buried in it were priests. 5) El Caracol: is a very round, cockeyed building on a large square platform, it is nicknamed El Caracol (“the snail”) because of the stone spiral staircase inside. The structure wiht its unusual placement on the platform and its round shape (the others are more of a rectangular, in keeping with Maya practice), is theorized to have
been a perhaps a photo observatory with doors and windows aligned to astronomical events, specifically around the path of Venus as it traverses through the heavens. 6) Old Chichén: Nicknamed for a group of stuctures to teh south of the centrla side, includes the initial Series Group, which is the Phallic Temple, the Platform of the Great Turtle, Temple of the Owls, and the Temple of the Monkeys. Chichén Itzá has a variety of other structures densely packed in the ceremonial center. Also some of the older Maya structures at Chichén Itzá are south and west of Cenote Xtaloc. Archeologists have been restoring several buildings in this area, including the Templo del Osario, Casa Roja and Casa del Venado; which are some of the site’s oldest structures. 33
Where to eat? Typical snacks like panuchos (small, thick, fried rounds of cornmeal stuffed or topped with beans, sprinkled with shredded meat and cabbage), empanadas (turnovers of meat, fish, potatoes, occasionally, cheese and beans) and salbutes (fried tortillas smothered with diced turkey, pickled onion, sliced avocado) are ubiquitos (loncherias), in the market, and on the menu of restaurants specializing only in local food. Huevos motulenos, presumbly a recipe from the town of Motul, are so yummy they’re found on breakfast menus throughout the regioin and even elsewhere in Mexico. The recipe is similar to huevos rancheros (fried eggs on soft corm tortillas and smothered in a mild red sauce). Also try, Xtabentun is a sweet liquer.
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Alberto’s Continental Patio $$$
Though locals say this eatery has lost some of its star power, it’s still adependable place for good shish kebab, pwer, it’s still a dependable place for good shish kebab, fried kibbe (meatballs of ground beef, wheat germ, and spices), hummus, tabouleh , and other Lebanese dishes. Address: Calle 64 at Calle 57, Centro Phone: 990/928-5367
Hacienda Teya $$$
This beautiful haceinda just outside the city serves some of teh best regional food in the area. Most patrons are well-todo Meridians enjoying a leisurely lunch, so you’ll want to dress up a bit. Hours are noon to-6 everyday. Address: Carretera 180, Kanasin Phone: 999/998-0800
La Bella Epoca $$
The private balconies at this elegantly restored mansion overlook Parque Hidalgo. On weekends, when the street below is closed to traffic, it’s pleasant to survey the park while feasting on Maya dishes like sikilpak (a dip wiht pumpkin seeds, charbroiled tomatoes, and onions) Address: Calle 60 No. 497 Phone: 999/928-6502
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Mayaland $$$
This charming property is in a large garden, and chose enough to the ruins to have its own entrance. Colonial-style guest rooms have decorative tiles, ask for one with a balcony, which does not cost extra. Bungalows have thatched roofs as well as very wide verandas with hammocks. The simple Maya-inspired “huts” near the front of the property. Address: Carretera 180 Phone: 985/851-0100
Hacienda Chichén $$$
All of the ground-floor rooms have verandas, but only master suites have hammocks. There’s a satellite TV in the library. An enourmous (add deep) old pool graces the beautiful gardens filled with exotic floers. Address: Carretera 180 Phone: 985/851-0045
Ecotal Quinta Real $
Where to stay? Yucatan State has 7,000 hotel rooms, It’s a third of what Cancún has. In general the public spaces in Mérida’s hotels and prettier than the sleeping rooms. Most hotels have air-conditioning, and even many budget hotels have installed it in at least some rooms-but it’s best to ask. There ar quiet a few charming and comfortable hotels near the major archeological sites Chichén Itzá and Uxmal, and a couple of foreign run bed-and-breakfasts in Progreso, which previously had only desultory digs. 36
Junior suites each have a balcony (overlooking the parking area), a wet bar and living-dining are, king bed, and spa bath. Out of all the standard rooms, the nicest ones have terraces overlooking the orchard. Address: Calle 40 No. 160A Phone: 995/856-6372
Maria De la Luz $
A worn but still somewhat engaging budget hotel. Many of the light is on the main plaza. Motel-style buildings are centered around a swimming pool, where there are banana trees and tables for drinking and dining. The plain rooms are nothing to write home about, but consistently attract a diverse and bohemian clientele. The restaurants, where guests tend to gather, serves predictable but tasty Mexican dishes; pollo pibil is a house specialty and a customer favorite. Address: Calle 42 No. 193 Phone: 985/856-2071
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Where to do? The capital city of Yucatán State is the cultural hub of the peninsula. Bustling with busy traffic and swelteringly hot for much of the year; Mérida’s hotels restaurants, shops, and the museums still bring visitors back year after year. Weekends, when downtown streetsare closed to cars adn free shows are held on teh main square, are especially magicaly. Outside of Mérida, villages offer charming shops and restaurants, shell strewn beaches along the remote north coast, and a chance to see the clouds of pink flamingos that coverage on protected wetlands.
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Cenote Zaci
A large, round, and beautiful sinkhole at the edge of town is sometimes crowded with tourists and local boys clowning it up; at other times, it’s desserted. Leaves from the tall and trees surrounding the sinkhole float on the tall old trees surrounding the sinkhole float on the surface, but the water itself is quite clean. If you’re not up for a dip, visist the adjacent handicraft shop or have a bite or a drink at teh thatch-roof restaurant overlooking the water. Also at the stie is a sound-and-light show that recounts Maya history which is very interesting. Address: Calles 36 and 37
Cenote X-Keken
Three miles west of the main square and on teh old highway to Chichén Itzá, you can swim with the catfish and in a cave lighted by small natural skylight.
Grutas de Balanchen
How often do you get the chance to wonder below the earth? The caves translated as both “throne of the jaguar caves” or “caves of the hiddne throne” are dark and sometimes slippery sloped to an amazing, rocky underworld. The caverns are lighted to best show off their lumpy limestone stalactites and niche-like side caves. At the end of the line is the underground cenote where Maya priests worshipped Chaar, the God of rain and water. Wear comfortable, walking shoes. It’s a privaledge also to view in situ vases, jars, and incense burners once used in sacred rituals. This is recommended if you are into history and archeology. Address: 4 miles east of Chichén Itzá Cost: $450 (including tour, sound-and-light show) $5.00 parking Time: 9am-5pm, tour leaves 11pm, 1pm, 3pm
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Cozumel It’s all about the water here-the shimmering, clear as glass aquamarine sea that makes you want to kick off your shoes, slip on your fins, and dive right in. Once you come up for air, you’ll find Mexico’s largest Caribbean island is pretty fun to explore on land, too. Despite a very severe lashing by Hurricane Wilma in October 2005, the island still remains a fascinating place to visit. Cozumel is 40
33 mi long and 9 mi wide, and its paved roads (exception of the one to Punta Molas) are excellent. The dirt roads, however, are another story; they’re too deeply rutted for most rental cars, and in the many season flash flooding makes them even more tougher to navigate. Many roads went through significant rebuilding after Wilma, are better than ever. But the island’s windwardside is
rapidly developing interior lack infrastructure to handle sever storms, Cozumel’s main road is the Avenida Rafael E. Melgar, which runs along the island’s western shore. South of San Miguel, the road is known as Cartera Chankanaab or Carretera Sur; South of town, the road splits into two parallel lanes, with the right lane reserved for the slower motor-scooter and bicycle traffic. 41
Problem with American hot dogs are that they are too American, an old fashioned ketchup and mustard hot dog is very boring. They are not very colorful enough. You have got to make them more colorful, and pile on the stuff. Try one from the hot dog stands in Cozumel, they are wrapped in bacon topped with chopped onion, tomatoes, mayonnaise, mustard and of course, the jalapenos. Don’t hesitate to ask for more or less jalapenos. We don’t want it to taste too bland nor do we want you to burn your mouth. The stands also sell beverages so you can wash it down.
The most sinfully, the sweetest and the most greenest bananas
How can we forget the foods from Cozumel. My friends and I still salivate when we think about it. 42
A burrito is a type of food found in Mexican cuisine. It consists of a flour tortilla or folded around a filling. In Mexico, refried beans, Mexican rice, or meat are usually the only fillings.
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You’ll find vendors not only selling these oranges, but making fresh juice out of them. Makes a very refreshing drink anytime of the day, especially in the afternoon when it’s scorching hot outside.
This tomato based salsa consists of chopped tomatoes, onions, cilantro, vinegar and lime juice. But be very careful as some restaurants tend to add finely chopped habanero peppers. These peppers can be very deadly if you are sensitive to spicy food. Don’t hesitate to ask your server what the salsa contains.
Top: Fresh chopped tomato salsa. Left: Churros from outdoor food cart. 44
Churros referred to as a Spanish doughnut, which are frieddough pastry based snacks. Also Churros typically fried untill they are crunchy, and then are spinkled with sugar. The surface of a churro is ridged due to being piped from a churrera, a startshaped nozzle. 45
Where to eat?
Las Tortugas
The aromas of sizzling shrimp, grilled chicken and steak, spicy sauces, and crisp pizza fill the air of San Miguel in teh evening. Waiters will deliver platters of enchiladas, tacos and fajitas to sidewalk tables along pedestrian walkways. At the many rooftop restaurants, groups gather over Italian feasts; and along the shoreline, lobster and the catch of the day are delicacies of shoreline, lobster and the cathc of the day and delicacies of choices on Cozumel. Entrepreneurs from Switzerland, Texas and Italy have decided to make a go of their dreams. Food familiar to American taste buds abound. In fact, it can be hard to find authentic regional cuisine, Yucatecan
If the wahoo with spinach on the one the menu, don’t miss it. But Guido’s is best known for its pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven, which makes sections of indoor dining roof rather warm. Sit in the pleasantly overgrown courtyard instead, and order a pitcher of sangria to go with the puffy garlic bread. Address: Av. Rafael E. Melgar 23 Phone: 987/872-0946
dishes such as cochinita pibil, queso relleno, and sope de lima rarely appear on tourists-oriented menus, but are served at small family-owned eateries in San Miguel. Look for groups of local families gathered in tiny cafes to find authentic Mexican cooking.
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“Delicious seafood at accessible price” is the motto.The menu consists of primarily fish, lobster adn conch caught by local fishermen, and changes according to what’s available. Fajitas and other traditional Mexican dishes are also options. Address: Ave. Pedro Joaquin Coldwel (also called Av. 30) and Calle 19 Sur Phone: 987/872-1242
Guido’s $$
La Perlita $
The ceviche and whole fried fish are fresh as can be at this neighborhood seafood market and restaurant. Lunch is the main meal and the crowd is largely made up of families and local workers on break. Take a taxi-it’s quiet a distance from downtown and hard to find. Address: Av. 65 Norte 49, btw Calles 8 and 10 Phone: 987/872-0241
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Where to stay? One of a kind hotels have long been the norm in Cozumel. Fancy Glamour and glitz are non existent you won’t find any lavish resorts with designer toiletries and very find Italian linens here. Instead, the emphasis is mostly on relaxed comfort and reasonable rates (though the prices are rising). Most of Cozumel’s hotels are on the leeward (west) and south sides of the island, though larger resorts are noth and south of San Miguel; the less expensive places are in town, which is not too far.
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Playa Azul Gold and Beach Resorts $$$
Has bright and airy rooms facing the ocean or the gardens. Instead the rooms are mirrored niches, wicker furnishings, and sun-filled terraces. Small palapas shade lounge chairs on the beach, and you can arrange snorkeling and diving trips at teh hotel’s own dock. Golf fees are included in the room rates; some guests hit the courses daily. Address: Carreter Costera Phone: 987/872-0043
Coconuts $$
The scene is more peaceful if you choose a palapa-shaded table on the rocks overlooking the water. The calamari and
garlic shrimp are good enough to write home about. Address: East-coast road near Junction Phone: No phone
Plaza Leza $$
The outdoor tables here are a wonderful place to linger, you can watch the crowds in the square while savoring Mexican dishes poc chuc (tender prok loin in a sour orange sauce), enchiladas, and lime soup. Breakfast is available here as well. For more privacy, there’s also a somewhat secluded, cozy inner patio. Address: Calle 1 Sur, south side of Plaza Phone: 987/872-1041
Coral Princess Hotel & Resort $$$
Great snorkeling off the rocky shoreline makes this a north coast standout. Princess Villas each have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, and a terrace, also Coral Villas have one bedroom and a terrace. Address: Carreter Costera Phone: 987/872-3200
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Dive Sites Chankanaab Reef
What to do? The water is so warm and clear and it’s around 80 degrees with near-100 foot visibility most of the year-that diving feels nearly effortless. There’s no way anyone can do all the deep dives, and night dives in one trip, wall dives, and night dives focusing on ecology, archeology, old sunken stips, and photography. Many hotels and dive shops offer introductory classes in swimming pool. Most include a beach or a boat dive. Many dive shops also offer a full open-water certification classes, which take at least four days on intensive classroom study and pool practice. Basic certification courses costs about $350, while advanced certification courses cost as much as $700. You can also do your studies for your class at home. 50
This inviting reef lies south of Parque Chankanaab, about 350 yards offshore. Large underground caves are filled with stripped grunt, snapper, sergeant majors, and butterfly fish. At 44ft, there’s another larger coral formation that’s often filled with crabs, lobster, barrel sponges, and angelfish. If you drift a bit farther south, you can see the Balones de Chankanaab, balloon-shaped coral heads at 70 feet. This is an excellent dive site for beginners.
Colombia Reef
Several miles off Planacan the reef will reache 82-98 feet and is best suited for experienced divers. It’s under-water structures are as varied as those of Palancar Reef; with large canyons and ravines to explore. Clustered near the overhangs are large groupers, jacks, rays, and sea turtle.
Maracaibo Reef
One of the most difficult reefs. Maracaibo is thrilling dive with strong currents and intriguing old coral formations. Although there are dhallow areas, and only advanced divers who can cope with the current should attempt Marciadobo.
Palacar Reef
Palancar is a series of varying beautiful coral formations with 40 dive locations. It’s filled with winding canyons, deep ravines, narrow crevices and archways, tunnels, and caves. Black and red coral, elephant-ear and barrel sponges are among the attractions. At the section called Horseshoe, a series of coral heads form a natural horseshoe shape. This is one of the most popular sites for dive boats and can become crowded. Make sure you book ahead and get there early to reserve your space, since the first trips usually are the best ones.
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Tulum (pronounced too-lum) is Yucatán TulumTulum Peninsula’s most-visisted Maya ruin, attracting more than 2 million people annually. This means you have to share the site with roughly half of the tourist population of Quintana Roo on any given day, even if you arrive early. Though most of the architecuture is of 52
unremarkable Postclassic (10000-1521) style, the amount of attention that Tulum receives is not entirely underserved. Its location by the blue-green Carribbean is breathtaking. At the entrance you can hire a guide, keep in mind that their information is more entertaining than historially accu-
rate. Disregard that stuff about virgin sacrifices atop the alters. Because you aren’t allowed to climb or either the fragile structures–only three really merit close inspections anyway–you can see the ruins in two hours. You might, however, want to allow extra time for a swim or a stroll on the beach. 53
History of Tulum Ruins Tulum is one of the few Maya cities known to have been inhabited when the consquistadores arrived in the 1518 in the 16th century, it functioned as a safe harbor for trade goods from rival Maya factions; it was considered neutral territory when the merchandises could be stored and traded in peace. Then the city reached its height when traders made wealthy through the exchange of goods, for the first time they outranked Maya priests in authority When the Spaniards arrived, they forbade the Maya traders to sail the seas, so commerce among the Maya died. Tulum has long held significance for the Maya. An important city in the League Mayapán (AD 9871194), it was never conquered by the Spandards, it was abandoned about 75 years after the conquest. For 300 years thereafter, it symbolizes the definace of an otehrwise subjugated people; it was one of
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the last outposts of the Maya during their insurrection against Mexican rule in the War of the Castes. The uprising continued intermittently until 1935, when the Maya ceded Tulum to the government. The very first significant sturcture is the two-story Templo de los Frescos, to the left of the entryway. The temple’s vault roof and corbel arch are examples of Maya architecture. Faint traces of blue-green frescoes outlined in black are on the inner and outer walls; refer to ancient Maya beliefs (the clearest frescoes are hidden from sight now that you can’t walk into the temple). Reminiscent of Mixtec style, the frescoes are hidded from sight now that you can’t walk into the temple). Reminiscent of the Mixtec style, the frescoes also depict the three word of the Maya and their major depict the three world of the Maya and
The sight is breathtaking. You will find yourself awed by each new sight, only to be all the more surprised at the next. 55
Nothing tobs day of walking around than a relaxing dip in the waters of the Caribbean. Save this experience when you are done wth exploring. Trust us. It’s worth it.
It’s hard to miss these iguanas. They are all over the place.
of a 40–foot limestone cliff past the Temple of the Frescoes. Top of it, at the end of broad stairway, is a temple with stucco ornamentation on the outside and traces of fine frescoes inside the two chambers. (The stairway has been roped off), so the top temple is inaccesseible.) The front wall of the Castillo has faint carvings of the Descending God and columns depicting the plumed serpant God, Kukulcán, who was introcuded to the Maya by the Toltecs. Left of the Castillo is the Templo del Dios Descendente–so called for the carving of a winged god plummeting to earth over the doorway. A few small alters sit atop a hill at the north side of the cave and have an excellent view of the Castillo and the sea. On the nightway about 2 1/2 mi south of the ruins is what is Tulum. 56
their major deities are decorated with stellar and the serpentine patterns, ears of maize, rosettes, and offerings to teh Gods. One scene portrays the rain God seated on a four legged animal-probably a reference to the Spaniards on their horses. The largest and famous building, the Castillo (Castle), looms at the edge As Tulum’s importance as a commercial center has started to increase; markets, services, shops restaurants, hotels, resorts and many auto-repair shops continue to spring up along the road. Growth hasn’t been kind to the pueblo; it’s rather unsightly, with a wide four lane highway which runs down the middle. Transportation is easy here since you can take the collectivo. 57
Where to eat? Although there aren’t many restaurants near Tulum, there are few that’ll satisfy your appetite to the fullest. There are also a buch of places where you can eat and they offer lodging. Few of the foods are must try, such as the parrillados, a mixed, marinated grill made with chicken, beef, and pork. Also try the arracheras which is a special fajita made with grilled beef or pork with onion, bell peppers, and tomatoes. It will have you coming back for more.
Los Ranitos $$$
The pièce de résistance is the on-site restaurant’s French chef, who whips are incredible and delicious French and Mexican cuisine. Address: Carretera Tulum-Boca Palla Phone: 984/877-8554
El Pequeno Buenos Aires $$$
Owner and chef Sergio Patrone serves parrilladas, at this Argentine-inspired restaurants restaurant. There are italian dishes, too, as well as a nice selection of wines. White tablecloths add a sophisticated touch, even though you’re eating under a palapa roof. Address: Carretera Tulum, No 42, corner of Veta Sur Phone: 984/877-845
Glardino Ristotante Italanio $$
This small, cozy café is like an outpost of italy on the Carribbean Coast. A few tables are nestle under a palapa with a tile floor, there’s also outdoor seating in a garden. Many of teh italian dishes contain fresh fish, the grilled calamari is a lemon-and-white wine sauce is wonderful as is the spaghetti marinara with mixed-seafood. Also try their other sauce options. Address: Avs. Satelite and Sagitario Phone: 984/806-3601
Vita e Bella $$
The menu features 15 pasta dishes, and pizza prepared in wood-burning oven with such toppings as squid, lobster, and italian sausage. There’s are wine, beer, and margaritas to sip with your summer, too. Address: Carretera Tulum Ruinas Phone: 984/877-8455
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Where to stay? You won’t find the Hilton of the Holiday Inn in Tulu, but there are a few great and basic accomodation if money is not an issue for you. Many of the hotels offer activities such as snorkeling, kayaking and cycling. The very high-range prices hotels comes with great amneties such as, wireless internet access, in-roof safes, pool, massages, bar and a/c just to name a few. You also have the option to pay the price and stay at the bugalow with balconies and hammocks or you can save money and rought it up a bedroom with a shared bathroom and bunk beds. 60
Azulik Resort $$$
A high–end barefoot luxury resort, Azulik will soothe your senses. The charming hardwood villas here are preched right at the are perched right at the ocean’s edge; comes with a comes with a private deck on the ocean side, and floor-to-ceiling windows on the jungle side )with pretty bamboo curtains when you need privacy). Handcarved soaking tubs made from hollowed out three trunks and a natural feeling to this tropical paradise. Address: Carretera Tulum Phone: 604/608-9560
La Vita e Bella Beach front Bugalows $$
This small Italian resort has lodgings that are rustic but also very comfortable. The 10 roomy bungalows have wooden floors, palapa roofs, balconies with comfy hammocks, and wide ocean views; most have queen size beds. Smaller; less expensive cement-floored cabanas are also available; they’re set farther away from the beach, but are right near the on-site incase you need anything from the hotel. Address: Carretera Tulum Phone: 984/877-8146
Cabañas Copal $
Dirt or cement made floor cabnasare sheltered from the elemtns by mosquito nets. Some have shared baths, and there’s no electricity. Rooms are bigger and more elegant, witih hardwood floors, hand carved furniture, and one of a kind primitive whirlpool bath. At night thousands of candles light thousands of candles light the walkways. Wellness programs such as excercises classes; also spa treatments include yoga and dream classes. Address: Carretera Tulum Phone: 984/875-9534
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What to do? The dazzling white sands and glitterring blue-green waters the Rivera Maya beackon to sun worshipprs and spa goers as well as sugary beaches are the principal draw here. From anywhere in Tulum you are a short drive from Tulum Ruins. The entrance has a craft market; restaurants and the Maya Pole Flyers perform regularly. The ruins are approximately 2 mi East of the entrance and there are trains to take you. There is a beautiful beach at Tulum but no change-rooms or bathrooms inside the ruins. Tulum Ruins is not a large site and you could expect to spend a half day there. There’s also Coba ruins which is a short bus drive away from the Coba ruins.
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Coba Ruins
Coba ruins comes with a very interesting history and there are definitely signs existing today that the Mayan who inhabited Coba were firm believers in the Polul Vuh way of life. The temples, courtyards, bail courts and seles are still here, available for your to explore. Close to Coba ruins rae three cenotes, which are a must visit after walking around the ruins for four hours.
Muyil Ruins
Muyil also has the highest structure in the region. Here you will find Mayal temples, and even a small Temple of the Mat. The site is not large and you can go through it in a couple hours. But, what is interesting if you walk to the
far east there are the remmants of an old Mayan road called a sacbe. If you follow this road it’ll lead you in the jungle to an intersection, there is a booth there. From here you can pay $400 to take the special “jungle wal” to teh marshes. Half wasy through you encounter a high observational tower, which you may climb if you wish. From that point you walk to the marshes spread out towards the coast. It was these marshes that the Mayan used to connect to the coastline.
Xel-Ha Ruins is a small but interesting never the less. There you will see is on the ground still littered with conch shells (in some areas), which were ground into power and brunch and mixed into the paste used for making morter for construction. Xel-Ha is not far from Tulum so you have the option to take the colectivo to get there or rent a car (taxi).
Xel-Ha Ruins
There are some minor ruins inside the park but what you want to see is on the other side of Highway 307 just South of the entrance gate to the Eco Park,
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Hecho en
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Mexico