yarn to yard + stitch to seam
a thesis collection designed and crafted by kate holiber
Just as we cannot understand a sentence without knowing the alphabet, we cannot understand cloth without considering each strand of yarn. The ideas revealed by gradual learning and slow-process handwork inspired my thesis collection of thoughtfully crafted bags. With all natural yarns, hand dyed and woven fabric, and locally sourced, hand-stitched leather, I explored the relationship between a final product and its most fundamental materials. By putting my own spin on the timeless silhouettes of a backpack, lunch bag, book strap, briefcase, and gym bag, my collection aims to evoke the wonders of learning and encourage viewers to immerse themselves in the pleasures of the handmade.
This book acts as a window into my process and a source for viewers to think about the significance of an object’s origin. My love for photography led me to document each part of my journey, shown alongside photographs of places that have influenced my creative practice. With appreciation, sincerity, and curiosity, I invite you to look through the moments that formed my senior thesis collection. From yarn to woven yardage, from stitch to handsewn seam, these are the products of my education. Kate Holiber Spring 2019
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Using 100% cotton yarns, I followed the age-old
mid-19th century is an emblem of handmade production.
practice of indigo dyeing, watching the fibers move from a bright green to a rich blue after five submersions and periods of oxidation.
Experimenting with the partially computerized AVL Loom, pictured above, resulted in a traditional Overshot fabric that I was able to use in a more modern way.
Using my indigo-dyed yarns, I drafted an Overshot weave structure, a structure highly significant in American textile history. Its use among domestic handweavers in the early to
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Through research and experimentation, I used processes of natural dyeing to achieve the colors for the linen lunch bag. Cutch extract created the red striping and dried autumn leaves colored the brown.
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To source my leather, I had the opportunity of
principles are at the forefront of Pergamena’s mission.
visiting Pergamena, a leather tannery in upstate New York not far from my hometown. A family owned business since 1550, the tannery is dedicated to producing vegetable-tanned hides for a variety of uses.
Learning about each part of the tanning process and thinking about the traceability of each hide was a meaningful addition to my collection.
Using hides from local farms and naturally departed animals, sustainable and ethical
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Each bag in the collection was hand-stitched with careful consideration. After measuring each stitch, puncturing each hole, waxing every thread, and sewing every seam, the simplicity in the beautiful pieces of leather was reflected in its stitching. Each hide has its own story. The leather used for the book strap, pictured above, is marked with bug bites from the animal’s life on a farm.
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The weaving process begins off of the loom. After planning a woven yardage’s length and width, the yarns are carefully measured out using a warping board, pictured above. It is an integral tool in keeping each yarn in a specific order. After the many small steps that lead to a finished weaving, it is gratifying to know that my own hands have touched every inch of every yarn in an entire piece of handwoven cloth.
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kateholiber.com