issue
2016
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Kather yn
Watson
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“Where
at
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understanding, spirited and brave brand who provide fresh ideas to the independent publications arena. Promoting opinions whilst allowing the audience the s p a c e to think, and aiming to raise awareness on issues that are not necessarily considered impor tant right now in societ y. Where one is at investigates the over whelming sense that no one really knows what it means to be a man or to be a woman anymore through styling exercises, visual essays confronting image and physicality diversit y, and think pieces challenging identity ideals.” [Kather yn Wat son - Edit or]
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8. Collaborat or s
10. +
Contac t .
Boys The
Pink Girls
To
Make W ink .
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26. the f eminine gentleman.
Hair.
44. Body
In
56. I s sues .
One
68. Minutiae.
Fit s
All.
78. Tall
86. Eunoia (n .) beautif ul thinking ; a well mind .
Size
and
Dispo sable.
96. Gr r rl
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Gangs.
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Collaborators:
Edit or-In-Chief:
Robbie Jackson L aura Dickey Dani Baker Arlen Myhill Ashton Jef frey Alice Searc y L ucinda Barker Rebecca Jenkins Sarah Hay Ella Mcmillan Maddie Boon Amber Maidment Robyn Gardiner Jade Hardwick Giovanna Franceska Sauceda Garcia Eloise Durey Megan Winstone Ar ron Alexander-Paul Speiser Sophie Brampton Penelope Soto Lizzie Checkley Zoe Kr ystal Madii Rose Ava Wilcock Eydie Angel
Kather yn Wat son
Contact: kather yn.wat son.x@hotmail.co.uk 0 7 5 5 7 3 5 4 9 1 1
Instagram: @whereoneisat @kather ynwat son
Tum b lr : h t t p : // w w w . w h e r e o n e i s a t . t u m b l r . com
Website: h t t p : // w w w . w h e r e o n e i s a t . c o . u k h t t p : // w w w . k a t h e r y n w a t s o n . c o . u k
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Âť Âť Pieced like c o n s
a i d
together carefully e r e d
s
p
o
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r
a
b
o
k
,
Where one is at personalises themes of gender and identity by of fering intimate reflections.
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Pink Girls
To Wink
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Boys Make
In The
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s t ylis t /ar t direc tion K AT HERY N WAT SON phot ographer ROBBIE JACKSON phot ography as sis tant DA N I B AKER hair and makeup ar tis t L AUR A DICKE Y graduate collec tion AR L EN MYH IL L model JORDY DEN T
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Colour ps ychology in relation t o gender s tere ot yping is s till a prevalent is sue. The f ear of appearing f emale, f or example wearing any thing remotely similar t o a skir t , dress or any thing pink, is abundant f or men in societ y. Colour does more than provide inf ormation it c ar ries emotive and cultural inf luences. In the same way that clothes are not jus t clothes; they are how the social world ‘ reads’ and contextualises pe ople. The meanings of including the
the colour pink were resear ched , inf amous s tatement that
‘pink was once a s tronger colour that bes t suited boys, whils t blue was per ceived as delic ate and daint y, bes t suited f or girls.’
Pant one selec t a colour f or each f or thcoming year that is applied as a trend th rough consumer channels as a res ponse to cur rent at titudes. The Colour of the Year is desc ribed as “a s ymbolic color selec tion ; a color snapshot of what we see taking place in our culture that ser ves as an expres sion of a mood and an at titude”. For the f ir s t time Pant one has introduced a combination of two shades f or 201 6 , Ro se Quar tz and Serenit y. With the introduc tion of shades of blue and pink f or Colour of the Year this is an indic ation that colour s tere ot ypes are hindering as a result of the apparent gender blur within fashion . Colour is coinciding with societal movement s t oward gender equalit y and f luidit y. Pink provokes the
s p a c e
in culture
where individuals have les s of a concern about being judged, but rather use colour as a f orm of expression . Boys In Pink To provokes parody in indic ate some one’s
Make The Girls Wink also the mat ter that a colour c an sex ual pref erence or manner.
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B o y s I n P ink To M ake T h e Gir l s W ink
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Male po sitivit y is es tablishing it self and a dif f erent approach t o masculinit y is appearing, it ’s not only about mental health but recognising that men f ace the same pressures as women when it comes to outwards appearance. Men have body image and gender role anxieties t oo. Men and their anxieties about their identit y being labelled ef f eminate identif ies back t o the idea of mas culinit y. As a man in the 21s t centur y they are taught t o conf orm t o their gender ; t o be a succes s f ul man with power, you need t o be as mas culine as po ssible to avoid sugges tions per ceived f e m i n i n i t y.
of
homo sex ualit y
with
“Gender f ul � is a positive identit y that is unique to each per son , cons tantly evolving and inclusive of all f orms of self- expression . Talking about gender fluidit y means tr y ing t o unlearn the male/ f emale binar y and let up on the gendered codes and s tere ot ypes that subtly dic tate gender expression . Jus t bec ause we are born with dif f erences does not mean men and women should be treated any dif f erently when it comes t o roles , per sonalities, demeanour or prac tice. Contras ting f lorals with tailoring, mas culinit y and f emininit y have been twis ted by Where one is at t o unlearn the male/f emale binar y. Men the the
should be allowed t o show sensitivit y in same way woman do without judgement; media does not allow that space. the f eminine gentleman.
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There’s never been time to be yourself dismantles gender
a better as society stereotypes.
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the feminine gentleman
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s t ylis t K AT HERY N WAT SON phot ographer A SH TON JEFFRE Y hair and makeup ar tis t A L ICE SE ARC Y model MAT T HE W HOLBECHE
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G is
e
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r the cultural and social attitudes; Sex is the biological d i f f e r e n c e s between males and females.
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s t ylis t K AT HERYN WATSON phot ographer ROBBIE JACKSON phot ography as sis tant DA N I B AKER hair and makeup ar tis t L AUR A D ICKE Y model L AUR A-G ISEL L E H ARD IE
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Hair
Hair has become one of the most conscious choices about outwards appearance. The manifestation of e x p a n d i n g social anxiety concerning appearance is rising and af fec ting both psychological and physical par ts. Where inspired
one by
is this
at
has concept
been focus;
how physical appearance is impor tant for our own personal wellbeing and sense of self.
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“ Yo ur h a ir w ill s e nd s ig ni f ic a n t me s s a g e s t o t h o s e a r o u nd y o u . What hopes and dreams you have for the world, but more, what h o p e s a nd dream s you h ave f o r your h air. Pay a t tention t o your hair, because ever yone else will.” – Hillar y Clinton, 2001.
Hair.
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»BODY ISS UES.
s t ylis t /ar t direc tion K AT HERYN WATSON phot ographer L UCINDA B ARKER hair and makeup ar tis t A L ICE SE AR C Y model BE T H PUNSHON
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“One size fits all” is a description for a product that would fit in all instances.
But what about those who are extremely taller than average? Those who are shorter and much more petite than the average?
For 36% of women buying clothes that fit straight from the hanger is a dream. Straddling dif ferent sizes in dif ferent stores has become normal.
Petite and Tall sec tions, rare and small as they come are the only option for some people. But, with the release of the new Barbie body shapes in Januar y 2016 “tall, cur vy and petite”, One Size Fit s All will soon
The f emale f orm is delivered in a beautiful
cease to exist
array
as realistic propor tions are becoming more apparent in all aspec t s of indus tr y.
of shapes and sizes; there is no one ‘normal’ body shape.
The concept has led to inspire a series of images depic ting oversized garments.
The average height of a woman in the UK is 5’4 she weighs 11st 2lb and wears a size 16, now a market growing t o c ater for her and her average sized sis ter s is beginning t o app ear.
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One Size Fit s All
s t ylis t K AT HERY N WAT SON phot ographer ROBBIE JACKSON hair and makeup ar tis t LUCIE MIN T Y graduate collec tion R EBEC C A JEN KINS model SAR AH H AY
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 Where one is at believes that the current fast-paced, hyper-connected digital world actually results in a d e s e n s i t i s e d culture where people don’t
feel anything anymore.
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i
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mi
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nyoo
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one
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i she
a -
e aye
the small, precise unique; the finer
details points
that and
makes one subtleties.
is at
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Âť
Cur rent
Where
culture
climates
have
one
led
to
a
sense
that
we really don’ t know anymore what it is t o be a man and what it is t o be a woman . Men and
and labelled
women by
are their
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immediately physic al
assessed appearances.
is
The
polaroids
about
the
shot
at
with
ques tioning
the
body
in
look
at
the
a
way
human
to
a
of
mic ro sexed
dis guise
f orm
lens
provoke
identities the
regardless
and
subjec t s of
sex,
thought interpret
gender
and
juxtaposing something culturally embedded int o us.
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Âť Âť
Âť
The of ten
Where
terminologies misunder s t ood
of both and used
using
one
sex in
and the
gender are wrong terms;
gender
as
male or f emale binar y when
it
is
so
much
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more
than
that.
is
Gender either
means male,
Gender
has
much
more
become than
at
a f emale, a a
f luid
sense neither par t
singular
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of
our
f orm
of or
self, both .
identities of
and
expression .
Âť Âť
how
Âť Âť
can strive
we for
individuality if we allow ourselves to be represented by a c o l l e c t i v e ?
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Âť Âť
allow ourselves to be represented by a c o l l e c t i v e ?
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AND
inter view t ook when being the Tower s’ was no
me ‘Big fun .
- Kather yn Wat son [Edit or ] .
Making notes during back t o my school days Friendly Giant’ and ‘ Twin
I wanted t o f ind out if there were any common themes in their answer s , if there were similarities between their s t ories and my own, and what other girls have also had t o quietly endure. Discovering how these tall girls had coped with the flippant remarks they encountered during their s chool year s ins pired me t o record this concept.
To f ind out if growing up as a tall girl in a small girl ’s world had a negative impac t on their sense of self, I asked other tall girls like me about it.
TA L L
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DISPOSABLE
i n t e r v i e w e e s M A DDIE BOON, ROB Y N G AR DINER , SAR AH H AY, EL L A MC M IL L A N A ND AM BER M A I DMEN T
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heard
over,
and
over,
and
over
again*
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have been etched int o the pages t o connec t how these girls really f eel about their height, t o show how asking “how’s the weather up there?� c an leave them f eeling deflated and dishear tened.
*things
Comment s and ph rases examined th rough f eed back
In documentarian s t yle lif e f rom a tall girls per spec tive has been i n t i m a t e l y evidenced t o por tray how growing up as a taller f emale has a big impac t on per sonal identit y.
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Tall and Disposable
tall
are
you?
A: 5’10/5’11 I think. I’ve always been the talles t out of my f riends. I’ ve always seemed t o have really shor t f riends.
E: 5’ 9.
S: I am 5’11 , and I’ ve been this tall since I was about 17 or 18 .
R: I’ m 6f t 1. The f ir s t thing that pe ople say t o me is ‘ooo, you’re tall .’ A h thanks , not like I’ ve never noticed that bef ore in my lif e.
M: 5’10, something like that.
How
did your you in
height school?
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S : I was always selfconcious bec ause all my f riends were ver y small. I would hate it and used t o wear the flat tes t shoes and sc runch myself down a bit. I t knocks your conf idence bec ause you s tand out – but at that age you don’t want t o.
M: I always f elt ver y awkward , my whole lif e I was always taller than ever yone including boys . I didn’t like being tall at all. Year 10 this guy used t o c all me Green Giant.
How affect
E : I would think it was funny, but then I would probably think about it af ter wards.
S : Now I don’ t really c are about it, I used t o hate it when I was younger. ‘Oooo you ’re so tall ’ oh no shit! And shor t pe ople always say ‘Oh I f eel so shor t around you ’ , I don’ t c are!
M: I ’m a bit over it now, I ’ve it had it f or so long I ’ m literally like whatever.
How does it make you feel when people say things like ‘blimey you’re tall’ or ‘hows the weather up there’?
you finding
have trouble clothes that you?
A: Erm yes ! Trouser s are never ever long enough . I always go t o t opshop and get the Tall ones , 3 6 leg. Even if I get 34 by the time I’ ve put them th rough the wash they’re t oo shor t again.
S: Playsuit s you c annot buy normal sizes , they cut you in half!
R: Mos t dres ses f or normal pe ople look like t ops on me, always t oo shor t. And trouser s ; that’s why I don’ t own a pair, they’re always like ankle swinger s .
M: Crop t ops are t oo cropped. Jeans high wais ted, always .
fit
Do
feel wear
like
you heels?
A: I literally have one pair of boot heels.
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E : I do, but I always f eel really self conscious. When the girls get ready, we went f or a meal las t weekend , and I wore heels I f elt conscious bec ause even though they ’re in heels t oo I ’m always that much taller than them.
S : Yeah , I ’ve always said I would love t o be about 5 inches smaller so I could wear heels all the time t o like uni and s tuf f.
Do you can’t
-S.
“ Yo u ’ ve g o t t o b e r e a ll y c o nf id e n t bec aus e you know you ’re going t o stand out. The annoying thing is I f eel like sometimes you c an’ t go anywhere looking scruf fy or f eeling like shit bec ause it s obvious, people see you more. That ’s what I don’ t really like. ”
Âť
Where
one
Âť Âť Social media is having a des truc tive impac t in the minds of the cur rent exposed and easily inf luenced generation . Physic al appearance and per sonal identit y are dis t or ting as individuals are s triving t o be the bes t ver sions of themselves online alongside the social pres sures that are evident in ever y day lif e.
Also known as the condition is by expo sure to media and
FOMO, c aused social evokes
an xiet y, depression and insecurities. The af f ec t s social media has on mental health is completely damaging, used as boredom relief it makes pe ople compare themselves to other s and gives rise t o c yber bully ing. 95% of teenager s who use social media have witnessed c yber bully ing and 33% have been vic tims themselves.
Evidence is inc reasingly suppor ting a link bet ween social media use and wellbeing. The pres sure t o be available 24/ 7, and the resulting an xiet y by not desire responding immediately The to text s or Facebook continually pos t s, c an now be labelled with what is The Fear Of Mis sing O ut . doing
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to s tay connec ted other s are unhealthy.
is
at
» E u n o i a (n.) thinking;
a
well
beautiful mind.
s t ylis t /ar t direc tion K AT HERYN WATSON phot ographer JA DE H AR D W ICK hair and makeup ar tis t G IOVA N N A FR A NCESK A SAUCEDA G ARCI A s t ylis t s as sis tant ELOISE DURE Y model MA ISY D OD D
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The has
Where
ongoing endeavor to been translated int o
beautif ully des truc tive mind.
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Per f ec t , per f ec t , per f ec t .
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The clothes a compromise social world
we choo se to wear bet ween the demands and our own individual
represent of the desires.
Societ y dic tates appropriate garment s t o wear in alignment t o gender ; what is deemed cor rec t . In the world of fashion conventionalit y and conf ormit y are areas of inspiration f or playing at the boundaries of sex ual dif f erence. Sex ual dif f erence denotes us as male or f emale, and as a beholder of any given sex we are expec ted t o dress accordingly. Gr r rl Gangs has been ins pired by musings of the Riot Gr r rls. Star ting early 199 0’s Riot Gr r rls are renowned f or the movement of third -wave f eminism ; f ocusing less on laws and the politic al proces s , and more on individual identit y. Riot Gr r rls are of ten accused of being separatis t s by wanting t o f orm a lif e away f rom men and invent girl culture, but f emale mas culinit y goes beyond aes thetic s.
Your mind c an be more mas culine, your emotions c an be more mas culine ; it’s not always about demeanour.
Ins pired imageries
heavily by represent s
Riot f emale
Gr r rl the Gr r rl Gangs mas culinit y as a rebellion.
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G r r r l G a n g s
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s t ylis t s K AT HERY N WAT SON A ND SOPH IE BR AM P TON s t ylis t s as sis tant s ELOISE DUR E Y A ND PENELOPE SOTO phot ographer MEG A N W INSTONE phot ography assis tant A R R O N A L E X A N D E R - P A U L S P E I S E R hair and makeup ar tis t s Z O E K R Y S T A L A N D M A D I I R O S E A V A W I L C O C K models LOL L IE HOR TON, ES MÉ H IL L , SOPH IE GB A ND K AT IE INGL IS
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