Backpacking Anyone? by Todd Bush

BACK PACK ING ANY ONE?

Sweet Summer in the High Country Woods Your heart may jump for joy crossing the Blue Ridge Parkway’s Linn Cove Viaduct from the comfort of a minivan, or perhaps you delve a little deeper in your outdoor adventures and partake in one of the areas great drive-up campsites. But for those seeking soul soothing far from civilization, going backcountry camping is the ultimate way to experience wilderness. Backcountry camping—typically reachable only by backpacking— brings a deep satisfaction knowing you walked yourself into the woods needing nothing other than the provisions on your back and the ground beneath you. 92

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Story and Photography by Todd Bush

eople often comment on why they live in or visit our High Country, and one answer tops the list: the nature you can experience here. Mountains, lush forests, waterfalls and wildflowers abound just a glance or trail away. Backpackers become part of it, melding in it, drinking it and sleeping under the stars. Overnight outdoors, nearly touching the piercing Milky Way of a sweet, southern Appalachian night sky is an encounter like no other. Even on a brief weekend-warrior backpack outing, you sense in your skin the changing mountain air through dusk and dawn. You become aware, revitalized and reconnected to the natural world around you, then discover who you are is not just what you do. If you are a first-timer interested in backpacking, picking up some tips before setting out is the way to go. If you can, attempt your first outing with someone who has backpacked before. If you know someone who backpacks, chances are they are a good source to help you start figuring out what you need, equipment-wise, or to suggest possible trip destinations. Rounding up gear is the next step, and this does not have to be expensive or complicated. Use the “try before you buy” method, borrowing or renting equipment to test the waters without spending a lot to see if backpacking is your cup-o-tea. One experienced area outdoor enthusiast, Brandon York, tells his friends planning their first outings to get inexpensive items initially. That way if they like backwoods adventures, they can always upgrade later. Others ready to take the plunge feel, why not spend a little more and invest in state of the art equipment that will last for years to come? Going with pricier specialized outdoor gear with more desirable features may mean the gear will be more comfortable and practical in the long run due to lighter weight, better ergonomics and durability. Preparedness is the key to an enjoyable camping experience, especially when backpacking. If you plan on hiking or backpacking during seasons besides summer, be sure

Top: Three ladies trek beside a profusion of pink lady slippers flourishing in woodlands on the Appalachian Trail north-bounding towards Lost Mountain Shelter below the summit of Whitetop Mountain Va. just northwest of Ashe County, NC. Middle: Jason & Edyth Berry and JD Dooley roam a highland meadow north of Boone. Below: Katie McCoy packs her gear from a summer trek along the Appalachian Trail.

to find out about hunting schedules and wear and carry something bright orange during those times when hunting is allowed. If you bring a dog along on your trips, be sure they are accessorized in orange as well. Many wilderness areas are multi-use, and some hunters even use the Appalachian Trail. One winter on an Appalachian Trail section hike between Roan Mountain and U.S. 19 East, I hiked out of camp early hoping to catch sunrise from atop Hump Mountain and was a bit ahead of our group. Fog developed quickly and thickened at the summit, so I continued on and shortly after cresting Hump, heard a turkey call coming from the woods beside the trail, and I answered it. It gobbled, I clucked. This

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Finishing a crossing of the Linville River at the bottom of the Linville Gorge south of Table Rock, Nick Bush uses his trekking poles for balance.

went on a few times, when suddenly a hunter draped in camouflage came out of the bush sporting a muzzle loader in one hand and a turkey call in the other. We both shook our heads at our close call (so to speak) and walked off in different directions. More than one friend later commented, “It’s a good thing you don’t do a better turkey call!” Another thing about bringing your canine companion: not all dogs can handle long distance hikes. Like you, they all need to be brought up to speed by gradually increasing miles per day. Too often I’ve seen and heard of people having to carry their worn-out pooch out of the woods. Trails can be especially hard on a dog’s bare feet if they are not conditioned to it. Bring enough food and water for your companion, remembering that during exertion a body needs more than usual of both. A one-night trip can be a great way to see how much you may enjoy backpacking. Wes Wisson, an Appalachian Trail (AT) shuttle driver in Georgia who Bill Bryson wrote of in his classic A Walk In The Woods, once told me of all the folks that he drops off at the start of the trail in Springer, Ga., expecting to hike the entire AT, and how many call him after a few miles or days and want out. Rather than starting off with a long-distance hike (the AT generally takes six months from Georgia to Maine), try a one-nighter after a short hike to a great campsite.

Last summer I invited my brother Bruce, who hadn’t backpacked for years, on a trip to the Wilson Creek area with a few other experienced backpacking friends. We all agreed to a laidback trip just for the fun of it. No high-mileage bagging was intended, so we strolled a leisurely 1.5 miles to a campsite along South Harper Creek. We set up tents and explored the area, taking in a swimming hole, roaming the nearby trails and scrambling up a hill, discovering a fantastic overlook of the falls. We made friends at camp with two fun-loving medical students from the Triad area who shared a riverside evening meal with us. After dusk,

we all laid out on huge water-smoothed rocks as the river rushed around us, an ideal open area to view stars. Dozens of bats buzzed us, adding to the essence of our brief but blissful time in nature. We had the area to ourselves, and after a few moments of enjoying each other’s company in such a special space, retreated to our campfire and finally to our tents, smiling and content. A current trend in backpacking is to use ultra-light gear. Ultra-light backpacking is a way to spare the body the rigors of heavy loads. You carry less weight and by the end of a day are less fatigued. Most of the ground hiking in the mountains is far from equal or level, and backpacking is a real workout. Using trekking poles is helpful to minimize body strain by distributing some of the load off your legs onto your arms and help with balance as well. My first backpack was a K-mart external frame model with a green and white ecology flag design. As an early teen, I had a rather foolish notion that the heavier your pack, the more likely you were to gain the respect of your peers. Toting a fully loaded, more-than-50-pound pack,

We no sooner set up tents on a section hike of the Appalachian Trail when the bottom fell out of the sky for a brief summer shower Gathered beside camp on South Harper Creek are (back row, from left) Steve Blind, Nick, Bruce and

followed by a rainbow atop Max Patch near Hot Springs, NC.

Todd Bush; and (front row, from left) Adam Zurkey, Brittany Collins, Jessica Vincent and Brandon York. 94

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CAMPING DESTINATIONS:

Favorite Backcountry Grandfather Mountain—The mystique, power and beauty of this ancient icon of the Blue Ridge offers its wonders to all. Grandfather is best experienced by an overnight outing, taking in every nuance of its ever-changing environs. You can backcountry camp on Grandfather Mountain at several designated sites with a free (for now) permit from the state park allowing you access to camping via the Profile Trail (105 side) and just off the Tanawha Trail near the Boone Fork parking area (Parkway side).

G A L L E R Y

Four Appalachian Trail thru-hikers gather for a lunch stop at the Abingdon Gap Shelter in Tennessee near Damascus, Va. Seated in the center is “Reststop,” one of the few people to have the Triple Crown

TIM TURNER FACE TO FACE JUNE 30 - JULY 23

distinction having hiked The Appalachian Trail, The Continental Divide Trail and the Pacifi c Crest Trail. Reststop was on his third AT hike in this 2010 photo and had hiked over 10,000 miles in the last few years. Only around 150 people have done this.

ing on Grandfather Mountain’s Parkway side.

The Linville Gorge Wilderness Area—Rugged and dramatic, mesmerizing and spectacular, the gorge has numerous backcountry sites off the challenging trails of its east and west rim-to-summit and rim-to-river routes as the Linville River pours through this deep chasm. The trails of the popular tourist destination of Linville Falls, which is at the head of the gorge, are nothing like the other gorge trails in accessibility or level of difficulty. Do not underestimate the seriousness of the need to be prepared for backcountry camping in the Linville Gorge! A map, compass and adequate supplies are a must. Permits may apply; the cabin visitor center just out from the town of Linville Falls on Kistler Memorial Highway is the place to check on that.

beat! Multitudes of streams, rivers, cascades and some of the area’s tallest falls reside here, including the over-200-foot South Harper Creek Falls. Dozens of trails lead to backcountry campsites so removed from the sounds of civilization you’ll think you stepped back in time. There is a designated map for this area, and one could be lost in seconds here without a map and compass. The Appalachian Trail—This is the big one, folks, and part of it runs through Avery County. Grab your pack and head up Hump Mountain from Roaring Creek or Elk Park for your first sunset on a section hike and wind up a few days later wandering with wild ponies in Virginia. Or put

The Wilson Creek Wilderness Area—For camping near water this area can’t be

Two backpackers hiking up the boulders of Wilburn Ridge into the sun near Mount Rogers, VA.

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Mike Boone and Bruce McKenna at Nuwati Trail permit box preparing to go backcountry camp-

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in nearly atop Roan Mountain at Carver’s Gap and head north or south…as far as you want! About 88 miles of the Appalachian Trail’s nearly 2,200 miles runs through North Carolina with another 200 miles along our shared border with Tennessee. Every 10 or 15 miles along the trail are shelters that can accommodate a dozen or so campers who don’t have a tent. But be warned, I’ve seen a mouse try to drag a backpack across the floor of a shelter and heard tell of ‘em running across your face. So you might just bring that spiffy new tent of yours. The Mount Rogers Area—Broadly located where Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee meet, roam amongst these rolling meadows and rocky slopes with the famous herds of wild ponies in one of the largest collectively joined, shared bordered state and federal wilderness and recreational areas in the south east. The AT runs through it and so do herds of waist-high, rasta-style-shaggy wild ponies. Lots of backcountry camp spots along streams, atop ridges and amongst the boulder crags of Wilburn Ridge are available. Mt. Rogers is the highest summit in Virginia.

Top: Lightning loves to hike or camp on Grandfather Mountain, and here he is at the white and blue blaze marking Grandfather’s highest summit, Calloway Peak, 5,946 feet. Middle: Boo the Border Collie, of Todd, went on many a backpack trip, and he seemed to relish every moment with tail wags. Bottom: Maggie, one trail-loving pooch, rests beside an AT marker near Hump Mountain’s summit in Avery County. June 2011

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A BASIC

Above right: North and south-bounders passing on the AT near Elk Garden, VA. Steve Peterson (on right) was section hiking a 75 mile stretch from roughly Mt.

GEAR LIST

Rogers, VA to Watauga Lake, TN and stopping off for Trail Days, the annual event celebrating the AT held every May in Damascus VA - a must for backpackers.

For Summer Blue

Below: The joy of backpacking in wilderness finds

Ridge Backpacking

this group of friends high above the Linville River south of Table Rock. From left, Amy and Michael

Backpack—External frame, internal frame

or frameless. Consult with a qualified area outfitter on what may be best for you and learn about how to adjust it for yourself and the various terrain conditions you’ll encounter. As a good trip start target weight, try keeping your entire gear load including pack, food, and water at around 20 to 35 pounds (for ultra-lighters, 12 to 20 pounds). Remember, your pack gets lighter as you go as you eat and drink! A waterproof pack cover is a useful accessory. Shelter—Tent, Tarp, Hammock, Bivy.

Considering your shelter, the lighter the better, especially for summer. 1 to 3 pounds is a good weight for a one-person shelter. 4 to 6 pounds for a two-person tent is good and you can split the components 50/50 with your tent partner. A lightweight ground cloth can be a useful accompaniment and can even be used as a rain shelter itself, in a pinch.

Darling, Carly Randolph, Steve Peterson, Nick Bush, Katie McCoy and Todd Bush in front.

High Country resident and devoted backpacker Chip Norwood managing his morning pack-up of gear before getting back on the Appalachian Trail for a section hike. Though Chip regularly backpacks and leads trips into the Grand Canyon, he still finds time to hit the trails locally.

Water Filtration Method—Whether you use a filter, tablets, treatment drops or boil your water, it’s best to have a provision to purify all remote water before drinking it. Small Trowel— Some shelters along the

AT have privies for bathroom needs, but most backcountry sites do not. Dig your holes far from water sources, trails and camping areas. Food and related supplies—Food choices are

ed. It’s great to have a summer and winter sleeping bag but if you only have one, a 35 degree bag is a good all-around choice. Down is lighter and packs best but is more expensive. 1 to 2 pounds is a good weight for a summer sleeping bag.

really personal. Some trekkers cook and need a pack stove, others go cook-less. Some choose dehydrated pre-made backpacker meals, while others eat like they do at home. The key is to plan every meal and snack for the entire trek plus a little extra for emergency. A good mix of food groups and a higher-than-usual caloric intake is essential. 1 to 2 pounds per day can be a practical target weight for your food, depending on your size.

Sleeping Pad— Unless you are a hammock

Bear Bag—Having a stuff sack as a food

Sleeping Bag—These are temperature rat-

user, a pad for beneath your sleeping bag will assure a better night’s sleep, as will toting a lightweight pillow. Trekking Poles— Optional but very helpful. Headlamp/Flashlight—With backup extra

light and batteries. Map and Compass—Know where you are

going and always tell others back home of your travel plans. Use the buddy system. Water Bottle—Hydration bladders with

hoses to drink as you walk are also a popular choice. Staying well hydrated is mandatory. Carry 1 to 3 liters per day (depending on water availability) and have a second container in case one fails. Review your map and know your water sources along your trek. 98

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bag and 50 feet of line to hang it high when you are not eating keeps bears and assorted other critters out of your tent. A skunk once chewed a hole through a side pocket of my pack to get at an apple I left there overnight. The pack was just outside my tent right next to my head. I woke up, opened the tent to see what the racket was and came face to face with Pepé le Pew. Always hang your food! Plus the line you carry can be used to string a rain shelter or for gear repairs. A little duct tape is handy to have, too.

my scrawny legs were lucky to stand me up, let alone carry me on a decent hike. What was I thinking? Now I use a 14-ounce frameless pack that can be loaded in such a way that my sleeping pad and pack contents form a rigid support. With my 8 oz. uber-light Z-Packs Hexamid cuben fiber tent and my 1-pound sleeping bag (total start weight of pack, gear, food and water around 15 pounds for summer trips), I have never enjoyed backpacking more. On a section hike of the Appalachian Trail I met a couple in their 70s (trail names: Spock and Frito) who made their own ultralight gear. Spock had this backpack that, when empty, looked like a pile of material.

First Aid, toiletries and personal items—Try

Classic a

using scent-free products. Hang anything with scent (toothpaste deodorant, etc.) in your bear bag at night. Clothes—Rain jacket, hat or cap, shirt,

pants, shorts, socks and extra socks. Quick dry, breathable materials are best. Shoes— Comfortable footwear with good tread designed for trails and hiking. Many backpackers have gone away from the old “waffle stomper” hiking boot and use cross-trainer almost-tennis-shoe style footwear with fine results even on through hikes (a term for hiking the entire Appalachian Trail). Consult your local outfitter for advice on this based on your needs. The heavier the pack, the more supportive footwear you need—another reason to keep pack weight down.

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Trash Bag—Bring a trash bag or two along, they are multi-functional, as you can use them for their intended purpose or as a seat or hat or to protect your gear if things get wet.

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Bringing eggs and milk along for camp stove pancakes, Nick Bush sits at the rim of the Linville Gorge near the Chimneys.

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Atop Grandfather Mountain in the fading light of day a pool catches a reflection of the passing traveler.

OUTFITTER List

Wilderness

Finding idyllic spots to camp backcountry is part of the “Trail Magic” of backpacking. Always use designated campsites or places where you will have low impact and do not have to clear any living flora like this spot along the AT beside Feather Creek.

Spock explained that when you pack your pack in a certain way (some say with heavier items on the bottom or middle) you can get the components filling every corner of the pack to create a well-distributed load. Using your sleeping pad as a large roll, load that into the pack, then stuff all your gear into that chimney-like tube, cinch pack tightly using compression straps, and put it on. With all packs, you can make adjustments as you go, depending on the terrain conditions and how your pack feels to you. Getting instruction on your pack’s adjustments when you purchase it is an important step you should not skip. If your pack is properly balanced and adjusted, you will experience hiking with a comfortable load that rides along your hips, back and shoulders 100

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evenly but can be adjusted by shifting changing load emphasis on and off those specific areas as you go. Mike Boone, a local leading expert in backpacking and outdoors, got me into serious backpacking in the early ‘90s as we chaperoned and assisted with scout trips from Roan Mountain, Tenn., to Mt. Rogers, Va. At some point we stopped doing the scout trips and decided to simply go as an informal group of friends, roughly monthly, from September through May. Back then, we avoided the hotter busier months of summer. But summer trips require less gear and are, in many ways, safer. Plus, the swimming holes are warmer! After years of exploring the local trails, then getting somewhat serious about section June 2011

ETIQUETTE

Local and regional stores that carry extensive backpacking gear:

Footsloggers

Pack it in, pack it out—learn about and practice “Leave No Trace,” a philosophy and an outdoor ethic of leaving no evidence of your wilderness visit. Stay on the trails when hiking. When leaving camp or from your rest breaks, thoroughly police the area, leaving it as it was or better than you found it. If you find trash, even if it isn’t yours, pick it up. Never litter anything, including food items. Have you ever been hiking along and come across; candy wrappers, cigarette butts, orange peelings, peanut shells, beverage cans, bottles or worse and thought how out of place it looked?

139 South Depot Street, Boone • 921 Main Street, Blowing Rock www.footsloggers.com • 828-262-5111 • 828-295-4453

Mast General Store Boone and Valle Crucis, Asheville, Hendersonville, Waynesville, NC, Columbia and Greenville, SC and Knoxville, TN. www.mastgeneralstore.com • 630 West King Street Boone, NC 828-262-0000 • 828-963-6511

Mountain Outfitters

Peace and quiet—How much do we miss simply by not paying attention? While on one of your outings, you and your friends can try the experiment of going an hour or so without any talking. Allow the experience—for you, for the others, and for nature—to be one of passing through with minimal sound impact as well. Conservation—All these rules and protocols for good behavior in nature may seem excessive, but the backcountry needs to be kept pristine. The more minimal the impact from your visit is, the better the experience for you, for the next visitor and certainly for the inhabitants. In the wilderness, perhaps even more than in the city, awareness is the key to a life of quality. All this becomes intuitive once you get it. It becomes, well, second nature.

QUALITY

www.mountainoutfittersnc.com • 102 South Jefferson Avenue West Jefferson • 336-246-9133

Mt Rogers Outfitters mtrogersoutfitters.com - 110 Laurel Avenue, Damascus, VA – 276-475-5416

SERVICE VALUE

828-898-7544 102

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SunDog Outfitter www.sundogoutfitter.com - 331 Douglas Drive, Damascus, VA – 866-515-3441 Many other area stores carry camping supplies and may have backpacks, but the shops mentioned above have sections dedicated to backpacking and have qualified staff to consult and assist in planning and outfitting your serious outdoor exploration. There also is a used market for backpacking equipment: Summer yard sales, consignment and second-hand stores, backpacking classifieds locally and online, to name a few. It’s worth considering recycling someone’s perfectly usable handme-downs.

Joining a group of six newfound friends at the Hangover Lead overlook in Slick Rock Wilderness, near Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, our group of five local trekkers had enough hikers to wave hands with headlamps and do “light painting” during a long exposure with the camera shutter open.

hiking the Appalachian Trail, our trips started to require more and more effort and planning as we struck out for different locales, traveling ever-further with each new outing. There still is a group of friends committed to these treks, and we’ve grown

quite content to re-visit our cherished local backcountry sites. Some of the faces have changed over the years, but we try to get out as often as we can, knowing that being in nature, in remote wilderness, affects us in positive ways we find nowhere else.

Experience the wilderness whenever you can. Watch clouds roll by where the only sounds you can hear are bird calls and the wisps of wind; dip in a stream without caring how you look; but by all means—whether with a pack or without—get out more!

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