The Editor’s Letter We are weathering a 90’s storm; turtlenecks flood the streets as the sky streams mighty flashes of pastel blues, pinks and yellows. This magazine issue focuses on the central concept of re-imagining the typical 90s girl cult that runs through our society in high school life. Our main photo shoot challenges this idea having to be solely female but instead pushing this gender boundary with the use of two male models in addition to a female model to present the trio as strong individuals as well as a
powerful group. Along with this narrative, I also wished to break down the idea that a strong group of friends must be mean in order to be strong and could simply be genuinely kind to everyone around them unlike the film that is reviewed in this issue, ‘Jawbreaker’ directed by Darren Stein that presents the girl gang as mean to all, including their peers. This was represented through the model’s poses. The aesthetic of this issue is ‘bubble gum pop’. Sabine Khabiri Editor-in-Chief
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Pop Magazine Issue 36 Spring/Sumer 2017 £6.50
20+ PAGES
INCLUDING 90S MOVIE ‘JAWBREAKER’ REVIEW
GIVE US THAT POP OF COLOUR WE DESERVE
GLASGOW
See the 90s babies take on the style from their decade
Adam
GALASHIELS Top locations to recreate 90s shots
FIFE
Fife’s Newest Upcoming Indie Rock Band Speaks“We love black, we love leather and we love silk”
EDINBURGH
Insight into Edinburgh’s top vintage stores and what it takes to get the “90s look”
POP MAGAZINE
Issue 36 Spring / Summer 2017 OFFICES
Heriot Watt University School of Textiles and Design Scottish Borders Campus Galashiels Scotland TD1 3HF
Editor-in-Chief Sabine Khabiri
Staff Writer Clionha Thomson
Sub-Editor Joyce Chong
Photography Emma Duff Karis Simms
Fashion Directors Sabine Khabiri Joyce Chong Digital Production Katie Oliver Alex Gibson Covers by Karis Simms
Printed by Edinburgh Copyshop Ltd. 52 St Mary’s Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1SX
Creative Direction Khabiri Chong Oliver Gibson Thomson Duff Simms POP © 2017, the authors and the photographers. Reproduction without permission prohibited.
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KERRIEALDO KerrieALDO is a an independent them whilst studying on maker of coats and jackets based a fine art course, this is in Leeds, set up by former Heriot when I decided to make Watt student, Kerrie Alexander, the change into studying from Dundee. Kerrie handles fashion instead of art and all aspects of her business, from where my real interest in design, to fabric sourcing and fashion began. manufacture, to pattern cutting, planning and promotion. Her What inspires your aesthetic? brand ethos emphasizes quality I am hugely interested in craftsmanship, time, and care functional detailing and in a world of fast fashion. Kerrie clothes, which are designed has also been nominated for to be worn and loved, these several awards, including Best qualities are key to my New Scottish Designer of the Year design aesthetic. 2017. How long did it take you to start When did you decide to create a up / get noticed? brand? As I said previously, I I actually created my brand started the brand quite before I really knew I had, organically and slowly from it started with a coat I made to order custom coat made as a gift, and from commissions, I was doing then on custom requests this for about a year or so started coming in, which before I officially launch is now the cornerstone of my brand and website in my business. I decided to November 2014, and the take things a step further brand has been growing and officially launched steadily ever since. I feel my brand and website like the slower start really in 2014, with a ready to helped my business as wear collection alongside by the time my brand a custom service, which is officially launched people how it has been working were already starting to ever since. hear about it, and a bit of a buzz has started through Have you always been interested word of mouth. in fashion? My interest in fashion What kind of clothes do you love developed as my interest to wear? in music did, I used to I wear a lot of my own go to gigs as a teenager clothes but I also like to and started to make my wear other independent own clothes to wear to designers work, I prefer to
invest in quality clothing when possible and buy things I love rather than any form of throw away fashion. Do the 90s inspire you in any way? Who inspires you, and how? I’m definitely inspired the music from the nineties, the indie scene and clothing surrounding it in particular. Did you enjoy your time studying at Heriot Watt, and which course did you do? I enjoyed my time at Heriot Watt studying ‘Fashion Design for Industry’. I found living in a smaller town a little secluded at times however it allowed me to fully concentrate on my studies leave with a 1st class honours degree. The facilities of the workshop are excellent. It was amazing to have access to industrial sewing machines, which are now essential to my day-to-day work, I’d probably be a little further behind if I hadn’t gained access to these in my time at uni. Did you do any internships that may have helped you get where you are today? I interned and subsequently worked alongside the Scottish designer Hayley Scanlan whilst developing
Wrting by Alex Gibson & Katie Oliver; Photography by Ross Fraser McLean and Nualaswan
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my own brand. It helped me gain insight into how a small business runs and provided an opportunity to work in a fast paced environment, which definitely helped speed up my pattern cutting and sewing skills. Do you have a 90s style icon? A young Kate Moss. Did you have a favourite part of the 90s? Anything you miss? I grew up in the nineties I never really discovered a lot of the music I listen to from the 90s; now at the time but the great thing about it is it still sounds just as good today. The music for me is the best part of the nineties, I love all the indie music and the old school R&B. I miss being young and care free growing up but some things are better left in the 90’s such as Burberry tartan knock off everything, scousers (skirt/ trousers!?) and tammy girl!
M O S H A M O R D A S T H A C A S
S S E H N H
The distinguishable fashion from the 90’s is present once again in the 21st century. Fashion is always recurring and this can be seen in todays 90s fashion revival. The 90s made a big comeback for fashion in 2015 and has managed to stay strongly in fashion through to 2017 and there is no evidence of it disappearing any time soon. Although the traditional 90s is not so evident today, the high necklines, high waisted trousers and chokers through to the makeup and brown toned stone like lipstick is everywhere. This re-enactment shoot is taken from British Vogue in December 1993. The photoshoot was one of Kate Moss’ first and many of the clothing she wore can be seen in todays shop windows. The theme of metallics and pastel colours are again popular today. The styling and positioning that Kate uses has been incorporated into this re-enactment and it has created a strong representation of this early 90s shoot.
Writing by Cliohna Thomson; Styling by Sabine Khabiri, Joyce Chong & Katie Oliver; Hair & Make-up by Sabine Khabiri; Photography by Emma Duff & Karis Simms
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POP SPECIAL: MOSS
Left: Kendall wears: shirt VINTAGE BOUTIQUE, dress (worn as skirt) M&S Gloria wears: T-shirt NEW YORKER, culottes ZARA. This Page: Gloria wears: jacket ZARA, T-shirt NEW YORKER, skirt NEW LOOK.
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Kendall wears: puffer jacket NEW LOOK, cardigan MISSGUIDED, culottes ZARA.
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Starting out in a town called Kirkcaldy in Fife, Lost in Vancouver are a four-piece indie rock band with members Jake Morgan, Conner McKay, Brandon Sherrett and Tom Laurence. Growing in popularity, the boys are now based in Edinburgh where they’re hoping to make their dream of ‘making it big’ come true. Brandon, the bassist of LIV, gives us the details on how they formed, where their name came from and so much more in this exclusive interview. How did you meet? Well, me (Brandon), Jake and Connor all really met at our local YM. We were all massive music fans and were playing in bands from 13. We met Tom through Jake. He was in Jake’s college course and at that time we needed a drummer and fate handed us Tom. How long have you guys been together? It’s just past two years last November actually, which it doesn’t seem like at all. Still kinda feels like the first year for us. Who / what inspired you to create the band? Who inspired us is a dangerous question. Collectively I don’t think we could list everyone but what inspired us is just the love for music. We love playing music and playing our songs to people, we love the feeling of doing that.
What was the inspiration for the name Lost in Vancouver? The inspiration behind the name? Well, it contains a drug lord, mass amounts of TNT and Tom.(laughs)Honestly, the name, it’s not as exciting a story as people think, although Tom has gotten lost in Vancouver. But the name was a reference to a Jeff Buckley song Vancouver, and Facebook has a thing about naming a band after a wellknown city, so we just found the awesome prefix. Who is in charge of styling / aesthetic of the band? Damn, styling. We all have an idea at times and they all kinda start well but fade. We love black, we love leather and we love silk. We try and stick to that however playing in silk does become annoying once it starts sticking… Do you guys come from a musical background? As far as I know, we’ve all been musical our whole lives, it’s just something that had stuck with us, something we always got and we were good at doing. I think we’re the only people in our families to play, apart from Jake’s brother who picked up drums in a couple of months so he has quite the gift. Are your family / friends supportive? Our families will always be supportive, they’ve all seen us
go through the years trying and trying and they see how much this means to us. I mean all of us are best friends and we’re in this together so I think that’s the best support going. Who inspires your sound? We have so many inspirations it’s unreal. We have musicians who inspired a single melody in a four-minute song. We have our main ones, the ones who inspire the sound like Catfish (and the Bottlemen), Sundara Karma, Peace and Arctic Monkeys. Why 90’s? Why 90’s? Cause in our genre the 90’s was birth of some of the best bands today and seen the peak of some great careers. Plus we were all born then which was kinda a big deal too. What was your favourite part of the 90’s? I mean I was 3 when the 90’s ended but if I could go back, I’d go to as many festivals as I could. See all these legendary bands and musicians in their prime just killing it. How far do you travel for gigs / where has your favourite gig been? We really don’t have any distance we wouldn’t travel if the gig were worth going. We’ve spent hours in cars packed full of our equipment and played gigs where we
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POP MUSIC: LIV
Writing by Alex Gibson; Photography by Emma Duff
don’t get home till 4am because of travel, but it was worth it. Our favourite gig is an easy one. We played King Tut’s on December 30th last year and that was a milestone for all of us. It’s such a big venue and it means something to play there, for every musician I think.
If you could jam with any band, who would it be and why? I couldn’t answer for Jake or Tom because they listen to so many good bands I wouldn’t even know where to start. Connor I imagine it would be VANT or Foo Fighters or maybe Catfish. I wanna jam with so many bands so this makes it difficult but honestly I’d have to choose The Kooks. They’re a band that have stuck with me since they day I heard them.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years? In five years we will still hopefully be doing this and hopefully a lot further down the road. I’d like to have played shows in England and abroad but who’s to know? As long as we are still going five years from now, I’m happy.
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SHE WAS A LEADER. S H E WA S L I K E S ATA N IN HEELS. of adolescent girls it implements malicious tones through language and genre. The dark nature of this film creates a tone of satire because it hints at the faults that lie within female cults, which appeals to an older audience that have already survived the drama that occurs during most teenagers’ high school experiences. Key ideologies posed by Stein: Beauty: Although the girls have witnessed the death of their best friend they still have a set “beauty time” that in the toilets to prepare their selves visually for the day ahead Friendship: The cult of girls is powerful as one but they have a twisted perception of friendship and are in fact not friends with one another and are simply controlled by Courtney. A quote that conveys this central theme is from Vylette, Fern’s alter ego, “What is a friend anyway?” Rebellion: Posed by Vylette when she begins to rebel against Courtney and in turn becomes more popular due to her carefree attitude to life after her makeover. This sparks a rage within Courtney and she reminds the force that Vylette has become that “she made (her) and can break (her)” which Vylette snaps back at her with “good idea, kill me like you did Liz”
Writing by Sabine Khabiri
Directed and written by Darren Stein, the film Jawbreaker, from 1999, brings together key elements of the 90’s from the characters’ costumes inspired by the 90’s fashion and key attitudes that were prominent during the decade. The main cast consists of Rose McGowan, Rebecca Gayheart, Julie Benz and Judy Greer who play the roles of the girls within the gang of females. Courtney (McGowan), “she was the leader she was like Satan in heels” controls her the girls: Julie (Gayheart) and Marcie (Benz) as they all participate in a surprise group kidnapping of their friend Liz Purr (Charlotte Ayanna) for her birthday but in the act of doing so, kill her due to Courtney gagging Liz with a jawbreaker and taping her mouth causing her to choke to death which introduces the main plot and prop of the film. From here on, Courtney takes control of the rest of the girls and reminds them three times that all is “peachy-fucking-keen” and they must act as though nothing happened. Liz Purr is introduced to the audience as a beloved girl who although part of this cult, is not afraid to stoop to less popular pupils, such as Fern Mayo, who Liz helps pick up her homework that she has dropped which causes Fern to become infatuated with Liz. This then ties Fern into the killing because she accidentally finds the girls attempting to cover up the corpse of darling Liz. “Liz is the cat’s meow” – Fern speaking affectionately to detective Vera Cruz about Liz. Stein’s film targets a variety of audience member from teenage girls to adults of all genders in their late twenties. This being since although the central plot focuses on a group
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POP FASHION: NEW LOVE
‘New Love’ Re-imaging the classic 90s Girl Gang into a gender fluid relationship fit for the modern youth’s mind-set.
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Chris wears: T-shirt I AM YOUR PRESENT, dungarees GAP; Issie wears: jacket ROBERTO CAVALLI, jeans CHARITY SHOP; Adam wears: jumper VINTAGE, jeans TOPMAN.
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POP FASHION: NEW LOVE
Chris wears: jumper LOOM, dungarees GAP; Adam wears: jumper VINTAGE; Issie wears: T-shirt FILA.
Styling by Sabine Khabiri & Joyce Chong; Hair & Make-up by Sabine Khabiri; Photography by Emma Duff & Karis Simms
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Left: Issie wears: polo neck NEXT. This page: Issie wears: top ZARA, jeans CHARITY SHOP; Chris wears: T-shirt I AM YOUR PRESENT, dungarees GAP; Adam wears: jumper VINTAGE CHAMPION.
POP FASHION: NEW LOVE
The Sleepover Club starring our 90s babies all grown up.
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PIE IN THE SKY With Erin Harman When was Pie in the Sky established? It opened in 1972 and has been a great success ever since. I feel like the loyalty of the customers is growing and I am pleased with how faithful the customers have been over the years. When did you start working here? I started working in ‘Pie in the Sky’ in 2007 after graduating from Heriot Watt in Galashiels 2006. What did you study in Heriot Watt? I studied Fashion Design and it was a great experience and I would do it all over again. Fashion is something I have loved since I was young and I knew that it was what I wanted to do in my future career. Galashiels is the best -recommended University in Scotland for fashion and textiles.
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‘Pie in the Sky’ is a shop in Edinburgh that sells vintage themed clothing. The 90’s are a great inspiration for this shop and its manager, Erin Harman, gives us details on when the shop was established, themes of the shop and her time at Heriot Watt University in this exclusive interview.
What did you want to do after Where did the idea of your theme graduating? come from? I did love designing my Well, the aesthetic came own collection in my final from our customers who year but I always knew have stuck by us from the buying and selling for a beginning. I really like the small company was my thought of the customers niche. being able to lead the theme running throughout Working in a small company is the shop. very specific, why choose a small boutique? How do you portray your theme/ I just like the feeling of aesthetic? a smaller environment We show our aesthetic where I had more of a in the way we style our control and the experience boutique. Some say our would be more personal. layout of the store may look cluttered but we have Did you have experience before had compliments on our working in ‘Pie in the Sky’? variation and I just like to Surprisingly no. I didn’t show them all off. We have have any experiences at all a lot of accessorise placed even though a lot of people in the shop that my team told me it was vital to gain and I have arranged like a lot of knowledge and mannequins on the wall building up internships. and wall stickers of Bowie to show our style. I was Can you tell me about your time inspired by the 90s theme being here? Did you become which you can tell by just manager straight away? looking in the boutique. Unfortunately no I had to work my way through Lastly, what was your favourite to become a manager. I part of the 90s? started of as an assistant Definitely the film then it took me a year and ‘Clueless’. a half to become a store supervisor. After a few years I got prompted to being a manager.
Writing by Alex Gibson & Joyce Chong; Photography by Alex Gibson 21 P O P F E AT U R E S : P I E I N T H E S K Y
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Q&A WITH DJ DRIBBLER AKA RUSS FORMAN
What was it like DJ-ing in the 90s, what would you say is the main difference between then and now?) Sourcing/buying records and synch buttons, computing systems now, computer shopping and D J - i n g changed things a lot. Did you have a favourite genre of music in the 90s? House and Hip Hop. Who was your music inspiration in the 90s? Loads, inspiration comes in many forms, it’s too hard to narrow down. Where was the best venue you played at in 90s? Pure Edinburgh, or Pure anywhere, really. Is there any song from the decade that stands out in your mind as one of your favourites? ‘In the beginning there was Jack’
Did you have a fashion icon in the 90s or a favourite style? Connected to the acid house scene were body map Moschino and Vivienne Westwood. It was 10 years so things changed. Jungliat dressed different from neon Euro ravers. I never got into any set thing fashion. Wise. Needed all my money for records. What do you think people like about 90s music? Well it depends who they are; some people reminisce, some romanticise. There is usually a 20 year cycle in fashions or styles or culture I suppose cheesy 70s disco was big in the 90s.
Writing by Karis Simms
He was seen regularly at Edinburgh’s famous Pure night DJing, as well as in London, Dublin and Glasgow each month. In 1995 he went on tour with Orbital around Europe as their DJ.
CONTINUE THE 90S COLOUR POP