((Proposed Publication: The Guardian)) ((Header)) Gucci Autumn/Winter 2016: A collection fit for a Queen ((Standfirst)) This season Gucci is looking back to the Elizabethan era, and giving us some luxury ((Body Copy)) Reaching out for opulence is present this season, with collections oozing luxury and expense. Velvets, ruffles, silk and pearls all made a display at the top houses, paving the way towards a lavish filled season. The forerunner in the movement was Gucci’s Allessandro Michele, who made an impactful stamp on defining the trend. Pearls hung off collars, latticed jewels embellished the chest and golden chains were draped around necklines. Dipping into multiple historical eras throughout his Gucci collections, the designer took inspiration from the Elizabethan period this season. Blending the Tudor aesthetic into contemporary silhouettes, the classic portraits of the 14th century Queen were re-envisaged. Combining 1970s frivolity with exaggerated luxury, a new style of impressive dressing materialized. Leg of mutton sleeves adjoined trench coats, crystal encrusted partlets featured upon bell-sleeved gowns, and the medieval ruffe was fused into knitted T-shirts. Like Queen Elizabeth I’s revolutionary style, Michele emulated the luxurious look - a nod towards a modern day Golden age. “Fashion is in constant evolution and often references the past to create context, familiarity, and to revive something of value,” trend consultant Louise Stuart Trainor says. “Michele has a vision, inspired by his curious mind, with costume codes, eras and styles.” Using ostentatious materials of jacquard, damask and brocade, the collection exuded wealth and power. Tapestries, furs and satins emulated the materials of the era, giving the wearer a taste of royalty. “Queen Elizabeth I was very conscious of her appearance, her image was engineered to convey wealth, authority and power,” the Royal Museums Greenwich states. At the time of her reign clothing was used to illustrate wealth. Thanks to the sumptuary laws, luxurious dress was restricted to only those high within the social hierarchy. Defining the rich from the poor was important, and materials such as gold, silver and silk were reserved for the upper class only (which was used in force throughout this collection). Michele has certainly taken inspiration from this era in previous collections, “for the spring collection, I was crazy in love with the portrait of Queen Elizabeth I” he explained. The obsession is clearly continuing, referencing the lavish dressing of the period. Explaining his use of historical pin-points, Michele told Bergdorf Goodman’s women’s wear director Linda Fargo: “All these gifts from the past are necessary to re-create the fresco of a contemporary vision.” These ‘gifts’ were ever-present throughout the runway show, with the extravagance of the Middle Ages being interpreted. Golden platform shoes strutted down the catwalk, dresses were bejewelled and gowns were intrinsically embroidered. Emulating the age seems to be key to portray the power which came with it. As penned by art historian Graham Reynolds back in 1951, “Elizabethan style truthfully reflects the national spirit one of bravery, bravado, and swashbuckling, of supreme confidence and even arrogance in a newly discovered strength,” he wrote, “it was a time of virility and strength, filled with enthusiasm.” Where power is portrayed through the looks, bravery and enthusiasm is needed when wearing some of Gucci’s creations. Pairing huge TV screen style glasses with a fur-sleeved jacquard coat, or wearing
a jockey style cap with tassel cords hanging at your ears, it is bound to bring prestige to a usual dayto- day look. With such gallantry, the needed confidence after years of minimalism may finally return. Bringing an onset of luxury, the Normcore trend of the decade is being shunned for loud expression, where looks want to be seen. “After too much of anything, comes a backlash.” Stuart Trainor says, “Though minimalism is appealing, it cannot cater to our full range of human emotions. Tactility and sensuality are re-emerging in the form of plush fabrics and materials that pique the senses,” This is true, with rich colours, strokable furs and fanciful frills overflowing from the series of looks, it was worlds away from the quiet and simple era of predecessor Frida Giannini. The models this season were fierce and powerful, with an attention-seeking attitude. “Ostentatious dressing is becoming less about wealth and more about displaying power,” Stuart Trainor says. To be as strong as the Queen and her spectacular outfits, wearing giant jeweled necklaces over oversized cable knit sweaters seems to be perfectly reasonable. With the notable message that of extravagant dressing being that of authority; let the reign continue into seasons to come. -Ends-