Concept Book by KATINKA SCHMITZ mail@katinkaschmitz.de © KATINKA SCHMITZ 2009 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED OF
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OF “When you see yourself reflected in the water, Do you recognize the water in you?”
Roni Horn – Still water
SPIRIT
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CLARITY
Final project at the
AMSTERDAM FASHION INSTITUTE
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INTRODUCTION
This final year project is being created to present the knowledge I have gained during the past four years at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. It is also a result of all the practical experience I was able to gather within several internships at fashionfreax.net in Berlin, as well as in New York at the designer Jill Stuart and Vogue magazine, which are still inspiring my work until today. Inspiration for this final year project were furthermore an exhibition in the Museum of Enkhuizen of April 2009 and the Huis Marseille with an exhibition on the differnt faces of water.
Roni Horn – Still water
Spirit of Clarity is an inspirational collection book that not only focusses on trends in silhouettes and clothes but also on the atmosphere in general as well as fabrics.
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CONCEPT
Spirit of Clarity for Fall/ Winter 2010/ 2011 is inspired on the dark side of Nordic Mythology. It is about creatures from the water. Nature, especially wood is a big statement again. It’s about glamour but also simplicity. Scandinavians are gifted in industrial design and famous all over the world for briging the gap between industrial design and mother nature. The key inspiration is a mix of natural resources combined with an edge of technology. Pure. Sharp. Clean. A mix of glamourous evening wear and 80`s black leather chic. It’s about a relaxed elegance that many extravagant women will identify with.
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Roni Horn – Still water
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The soft blues and greys of the north are the main direction of this colour concept. It is a mute colour pallete with some accent colours such as bright lilac and turquoise. The different nuances that appear when you look in the water are key inspiration. We are looking at diffent greenish/ blueish hues like Blue, Moonlight and a dirty blue with some cold colours such as Silver, Shark and Vapor. In addition there are more nature inspired colours like the soft Afterglow, Waltnut and a Light Brown.
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COLOUR CONCEPT
Dirty Blue 18 - 3918 TP
Dark Olive Green 18 - 0820
Everglade 19 - 5226 TP
Vapor 12 - 4302
Afterglow 11 - 0510
Lavender Blue 14 - 3905
Bright white 11 - 0601
Blue 15 - 4005
Light Brown 15 - 1309
Pale Green 14 - 0108
Silver 14 - 5002 TP
Larkspur 17 - 4421
Walnut 18 - 1112
Shark 18 - 1703
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Heliotrop 19 - 3737 TP
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Reflections Natural Dramatic Elegant Shine Transparent Glamorous Simple Calm
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FABRIC INSPIRATION
Fabrics are natural and sturdy with a little bit of technology (Nylon, Plastic finishings). Eighties black leather; a glitter-shoulder rockchick body-con dress; sober gray wool pieces; and metallic brocade party frocks. Fabrics differ from pragmatic to premium one. There is Viscoce, Silk and Cashmere, but also more unusual fabrics such as plastic and real materials that differ from the world around the water e.g. old sails with its rosted eyelets and graphical stitchings.
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This first fabric group is inspired on organic forms of mother nature as well as an innovative edge that is applied with chrome colours and materials.
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“You watch the water – waiting for something to happen. Usually nothing appears, but while you ‘re waiting, you’re drawn.“ Roni Horn – Still water
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Water reflections. It is about stiff clean materials as used for the original sails of boats.
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Natural fibres inspired by the Scandinavians proximity to mother nature are appearing within the fabric collection. Open hand-knit structures are underlining the loose character of the designs.
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Roni Horn – Still water
“Water is too tolerant it loses itself becoming the opposite of water, a water that will pollute you.”
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The silhouette of Spirit of Clarity for Fall/ Winter 2010/2011 is presenting dramatic shapes. It is about volume with soft fabrics. The 80`s with its accent on shoulders were inspiring for the voluminous shapes seen throughout the collection. Another emphasis is on details used in the world of seafaring. Those include actual sails with graphical zickzack stitching on one hand and eyelets as well as sailor`s knots on the other hand.
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COLLECTION
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Fitted knee-lenght a-symetrical dress with puffy sleeve and raw stitching. Gathered around the waist for a loose, but still feminine fit. Black shiny harem pants with pleat detailing through the front. Pants aer fastened woth a zip in the back. 100% viscose.
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Innovative short sleeve jacket with a v-neck. It is fastened in the front with an eyelet and a sailor`s knot. Obvious zick zack stitching all over the jacket. Underneath a -symetriocal glamorous dress consisting of two layers. Upper layer is translucent.
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Black viscose jumpsuit with wrap style top. Jumpsuit is loose fitting with an elasticated gathered waist and self-tie across the back. 100% viscose.
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Silver shiny lambskin leather jacket with silver hardware. Jacket has two stiff voluminous shoulders and is fastened by an eyelet and sailor`s knot in the front. Loose fitting kneelength dress with short sleeves and a round neckline. Dress has two graphical elements in the front as well as in the back. Concealed zip fastening at the back.
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Soft blue silk drape sleeve blouse with square gem and silver colored detachable brooch detail. Blouse has a round neck, seam under bust. 100% silk. Metallic silver linen-blend mini skirt with pleats at the front. Skirt has a zip at the side to fasten.
Knitted Sweater
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Don’t let wet weather get in the way of style. Light gray slightly transparent raincoat with a detachable hood made from original sail. Raincoat has long sleeves with buckles on the cuffs, press stud fastenings through the front, two large patch pockets and a slit at the back. Black all-over sequin silk racer back tank top with an a-symetrical shape. 100% silk. Light gray loose fitting cropped leather pants with a button fastening in the front, as well as two pockets in the front and an additional two fastening pockets in the back. Silver zip details.
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Blue leather dress with shaped shoulders and graphical detail in front as well as back. Beading details in the front as well as in the back. 100% leather
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Open hand knit oversized sweater. Olive green hammered silk harem pant with self belt at waist with two eyelets and sailor`s knot. Pants have two side pockets in the front, coming out of the middle seam, low drop crotch and a tapered hem. 100% silk
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Oversized knit sweater with a low v-neckline and 3/4 sleeves. Silk sleeveless blouse with two additional pleats in the front as well as the back. Zip fastening. Leather pencil skirt with black patent trim. Skirt has pockets on each hip, a wide waistband and an exposed zip fastening on back. 100% leather
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Georg Baselitz, Waldarbeiter 2007
Oversized silk blouse with oversized arms and a gathered waist that is fastened with two eyelets and a sailor`s knot. White stretch cropped leather leggings with zip fastening pockets on each leg. Leggings have a center seam through front and back and simply pull on. 100% leather
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COLLECTION OVERVIEW
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Quotation: Roni Horn – Still water
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Many thanks for the support of this project Marco Bolderheij Martine Heinen Leslie Holden Ernestine Koelman Yvette van de Merwe Lorena Pammer Eric Reiman Willem Schouten Carla Wijnstroot Jan Enning, Photography www.kleinejan.org Eugenie Andrieux, Hair&MakeUp (House of Orange) Nathalie de Beus, Hair&MakeUp (Dikpeeters) Sabien van der Haar, Streetmodels Myrthe van der Swaan Klaartje Brouns, www.immbruxelles.com
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Concept Book by KATINKA SCHMITZ mail@katinkaschmitz.de
© KATINKA SCHMITZ 2009 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
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