Great Watches: Dubey & Schaldenbrand
Cedric Johner: A Look All His Own Fortis 90th Anniversary Ulysse Nardin Blue Max January 2003 — Number 63 www.internationalwristwatch.com
US $7.95 CAN $10.95 UK q4.50
Cover storY
Dubey &
s me by Megan LiVolsi e c ch ie p ani r cal maste
A Prestigious Past with a Bright Future
E
stablished in 1946 by master watchmakers George Dubey and René Schaldenbrand, the Dubey & Schaldenbrand Watch Company has gained a distinguished reputation throughout the industry for its high quality mechanical watches. The historic brand is probably best known for its uniquely simple and economical version of a split-second chronograph, which was first introduced in 1946 in response to an escalating need for a reliable timepiece that was highly efficient in the timing of industrial processes, sporting events and military use. At that time, the price of a chronograph rattrapante function was quite high and the capability of producing it was limited to a few select watch manufacturers. Patented in 1948, Dubey & Schaldenbrand’s Index Mobile, offered a “simple and inexpensive solution to the complicated problem of measuring intermediate or lap times.” The ingenious idea of Index Mobile was that it had a spiral recoil spring between the dial and the crystal (fixed to the chronograph hand). When the chronograph function was started, a slight pressure on a pusher
30 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
located in the crown would pause the index hand, and it would remain paused as long as the pressure was maintained. When the pusher was released, the index hand would catch up to the chronograph hand. A more in-depth description of the mechanism from an Antiquorum catalog reads: “The system Index Mobile was patented in 1948 by Georges Dubey and René Schaldenbrand. It is a simplified sweephand construction, in which the two chronograph indicators are linked by a hairspring visible on the dial. The sweep hand is stopped by the coaxial pusher on the winding-crown, but only as long as the finger holds the pusher down. When released, the sweep hand springs to the position of the actual chronograph indicator. “The principle of the function is simple: the center wheel, situated precisely on the center of the chronograph movement is pierced all the way through making way for a central axle to be placed on the dial side connected to the index hand equipped with its spiral spring connected to the direct-drive of the chronograph. On the movement side, a small lever or steadying spring can nudge up against
the head of the center axle, via the movement of the pusher and an intermediary lever or break spring blocks the index hand. When the chronograph is started it suffices, to measure the intermediate time, to press the pusher which pauses the index. It remains paused as long as the pressure is maintained on the pusher. When the pusher is released this sets off the index hand to catch up to the chronograph hand. The spring of the Index Mobile is extremely thin and does not affect the chronograph function even with the pause mechanism. However, contrary to a classic rattrapante, this function cannot pause the index hand past fifty-eight seconds. At that time the chronograph hand, having made a complete tour, hits against the index hand and the movement is stopped. However, with this consideration, fifty-eight seconds represents a reasonable time to measure intermediary time.” Easily identifiable with its highly noticeable spiral recoil spring, the Index Mobile has made watchmaking history and has become a highly coveted timepiece over the years for collectors given the extremely limited production.
Created in a limited edition of 300, the stainless steel Aerodyn Jump-Hour features a screw-down caseback with sapphire crystal cut-out window.
Cover storY In the late 1960s and early ’70s, the arrival of electric and quartz movements proved near fatal for the small firm of Dubey & Schaldenbrand, which fortunately was able to keep a small group of collectors interested in its own high-end mechanical timepieces, as well as in its ability to repair or restore highly complicated watches, such as tourbillons and minute repeaters. In the 1990s, the Dubey & Schaldenbrand brand was revived by Cinette Robert, who was born into a watchmaking family and has been intricately involved with the industry for more than forty years. Today Robert remains actively involved in all aspects of the business and is one of the few leading ladies in the entire Swiss watchmaking industry. “Dubey & Schaldenbrand watches are made for those who want to possess a timepiece that is truly unique and original,” says Robert. All Dubey & Schaldenbrand watches use 100 percent Swiss-made parts. In the true Swiss watchmaking tradition, each timepiece is assembled and controlled exclusively in Switzerland by the most experienced watchmakers. The components are only of the highest quality: the stainless steel is reference 316L (or surgical steel) and the gold is 18-carat rose gold; the hands are either skeletonized and then filled with a luminous matter to enhance readability or solid when the design of the watch requires it. The exclusive Dubey & Schaldenbrand dials come from only the finest craftsmen, in some cases requiring more than sixty-five operations to complete. Each movement, whether modern or vintage, has been meticulously assembled and controlled by master watchmakers and then hand-engraved by specially trained Swiss
32 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
craftsmen. A first control is made before the movement is cased, then a second after the whole watch has been assembled and finally, a third three weeks later. Spiral One In 2002, Dubey & Schaldenbrand presented a new collection of chronographs, created in tribute to its founder Georges Dubey and his Index Mobile. Thanks to a meticulously preserved stock of original blued-steel spiral recoil springs, the company successfully created a new collection of chronographs—aptly named Spiral—which profile and celebrate this exclusive symbol of Dubey & Schaldenbrand timepieces. The Isoval spiral recoil springs
used in the Spiral collection were manufactured in the late 1940s by the Societe des Fabriques de Spiraux Reunies. For many years, researchers throughout Switzerland were constantly trying to find ways to improve the accuracy and precision of mechanical timekeeping. At that particular time, the Isoval spiral recoil spring was recognized as a significant achievement and, in 1948, the company was honored with four prizes of excellence at a competition held by the Cantonal Observatory of Neuchâtel. The very first model of the new Spiral line is named Spiral One and features a new beautifully handengraved movement, a magnificent
Spiral One
Cover storY
guilloche dial and, of course, the highly noticeable royal blued-steel spiral recoil spring. Powered by the 25-jewel automatic Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement with Incabloc shock protection, the Spiral One is housed in a 40-mm stainless steel case. A sapphire crystal caseback allows for an open view of the completely hand-engraved movement with its skeletonized rotor and blued-steel screws. The silver or black guilloche dial features three chronograph counters, a date window at 4:30, elegant Roman numerals and a large second hand with the Isoval spiral recoil spring. Fitted with an authentic crocodile leather strap with deployant buckle, the Spiral One is both retro and modern in design. Vintage Caprice
Dubey & Schaldenbrand introduced the new, limited-edition Vintage Caprice at the 2002 Basel Fair to rave reviews. Limited to 500 pieces in stainless steel and 200 pieces in 18-carat rose gold, the Vintage Caprice is housed in an elegant Aerodyn tonneau case. The movement is based on the 22-jewel, automatic ETA 2892-2A (exclusively modified for Dubey & Schaldenbrand) and features a large date window at 6 o’clock (with two separate disks) and an easy-to-read powerreserve indicator at 12. Even at first glance, one is immediately taken with the beautiful art nouveau design of the black, blue or white dial. What’s extremely rare in the Vintage Caprice is the location of the winding crown, which has been positioned on the left side of the case. This is ideal for those people
Left to right: Aerodyn Date, Aerodyn Duo GMT and Aerodyn Chronometer
34 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
who like to wear their watch on the right hand or for those who are lefthanded. Aerodyn Collection Created in tribute to the Art Deco movement of the 1930s, Dubey & Schaldenbrand’s Aerodyn collection illustrates the very rich and diverse styles and accomplishments of this inventive time period. This was achieved by blending the streamlined curves of the Art Deco movement with the ergonomics and shapes of the famous Bauhaus style. Aerodyn Date With its bold style and geometric curves of the 1930s, the Aerodyn Date epitomizes a perfect balance between form and function. Offered in three different colors, the magnificent sunray-pattern guilloche dial features an oversized date dis-
Cover storY play (in two separate windows) and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The 26-jewel automatic movement is housed in a stainless steel or solid 18-carat rose gold case with domed sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 meters, the Aerodyn Date comes with a choice of coordinated leather straps or metal bracelets. Aerodyn Duo GMT In today’s fast-paced society where world travel has become the norm, watches that display two separate time zones have become a necessity. Dubey & Schaldenbrand recently presented its own solution with the Aerodyn Duo GMT, whose exclusive ETA 2892-2A automatic movement (modified exclusively for Dubey & Schaldenbrand) has the ability to set the second time zone without interrupting the main timekeeping mechanism, thus avoiding losing time unnecessarily. A domed sapphire crystal protects the stately dial which features two independent time zones, an a.m./p.m. indicator, a date window and a central sweep seconds hand. Available in stainless steel or 18-carat rose gold, the Aerodyn Duo GMT is water-resistant to 30 meters. Aerodyn Chronomètre The Aerodyn Chronometer is a testimony to Dubey & Schaldenbrand’s mechanical accuracy. Its 30-jewel ETA 2895-1 automatic movement has had to endure independent testing in reliability and extreme temperature differentials. Simplistic in its design and presenting time as the main focus, with a small seconds subdial and unobtrusive date indicator, the Aerodyn Chronomètre is cosccertified and is available in stainless steel or 18-carat rose gold. Aerodyn Lady Introduced in early 2002, Aerodyn Lady is the perfect compliment to
the successful Aerodyn men’s collection, offering the beautifully, streamlined tonneau Aerodyn case in a reduced size of 37 by 27 mm, with a thickness of 10.3 mm. Marking the first time Dubey & Schaldenbrand has introduced a model specifically
ning model offers an alarm (which is easy to read and set thanks to its interior 15-minute scale), a second time zone indicator at 6 o’clock and a date display at 3. Crafted in stainless steel, the Sonnerie Alarm-GMT comes with a choice of three dials—white,
Sonnerie Alarm-GMT
intended for women, the Aerodyn Lady is equipped with a 25-jewel ETA 7 3/4 automatic movement with 37-hour power reserve. Available with a white, black or blue dial and fitted with a matching crocodile leather strap or metal bracelet, the Aerodyn Lady has a look of refined yet sporty elegance. Sonnerie Alarm-GMT Presented in an oversized tonneau case, the Sonnerie Alarm-GMT offers an interesting and useful combination of functions for the wearer. As the name suggests, this stun-
blue or black—and is fitted with a crocodile skin strap or a stainless steel bracelet. A look through the sapphire crystal caseback allows one to admire the beautiful 31-jewel automatic movement whose engraved and decorated rotor winds two separate barrels simultaneously—one for the watch function, the other for the alarm. The exact adjustment of time is made possible thanks to the stop second function. The bridge is decorated with both a circular-grain and a rhodium-plated Côtes de Geneve
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 35
Cover storY
finish and the polished, blued-steel screws give the Sonnerie AlarmGMT movement its final touch. Gran’ Chrono The Dubey & Schaldenbrand Gran' Chrono houses a hand-engraved 25jewel automatic movement that is visible through its exhibition caseback. The watch comes with a certificate assuring that the engravers, located in the Vallée des Ponts-de-Martel, have hand-engraved all its parts. As an additional testimony, each and every movement bears the coat of arms of Les Ponts-de-Martel. The Gran' Chrono is fitted with a double register, date indicator and an exclusive guilloche dial, available in a variety of colors. Offered in stainless steel or 18-carat rose gold, the case features a domed sapphire crystal and ensured water resistance to 30 meters.
Gran’ Chrono
Gran’ Chrono Astro Dubey & Schaldenbrand’s Gran' Chrono Astro adds a full triple date (day, date and month) and moon phase complication to the original Gran' Chrono. These added complications are fitted in the same ergonomic case which required no less than ninety operations and sixteen months of research, development and production. The watch’s exclusive guilloche dial (which required eighty-five different steps) is protected by a domed sapphire crystal. Presented with a certificate of origin, the Gran' Chrono Astro is powered by a 25-jewel automatic chronograph, hand-engraved movement, which can be easily viewed through the exhibition caseback. Carré Cambré Collection A tribute to the 1920s and the in→
36 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
Cover storY
Cinette Robert
A Woman of Substance Securing Her Place in History Cinette Robert, acknowledged expert on vintage watches and owner of Dubey & Schaldenbrand SA, talks about her not-so-distant past and her very successful present.
Interviewed by Elizabeth IWW: In the last few years, Dubey & Schaldenbrand has become a major player in mechanical wristwatch design. You have done all of this alone. As a woman, this is a unique situation in the history of watchmaking. CR: I really have done all of this alone. Especially considering the fact that I make technical watches and not quartz or designer models. All of the watches I make are finely finished and complicated. Of course I studied watchmaking, but I was always fascinated by vintage models. I worked with Mr. Dubey, making tourbillons. Today’s way is different. Maybe not everything is done by machine, but we certainly did it differently back then. He always showed me how it was in the old days. I was once asked if I prefer to work with watches or to sell them. I love my customers. They are like my family, and the watches are like my children. I am also often asked which of my models is my favorite.
38 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
That is a question I cannot answer. They are like my children, each has a different personality. I could never pick one and say that is the best one. When our smaller women’s model finally comes out in 2003, I’ll wear that one. It was always my dream to own a watch with a professed balance spring (like the Spiral One). This is because of the spring, because of the history, because of Mr. Dubey’s patent. IWW: It is very unusual for a woman to be so successful in the watch industry.You are, of course, an absolute expert in vintage watches, and that is certainly part of the reason you have come so very far. What other qualities do you think brought you to where you are today? CR: I never chose the easy route. M y g re a t - g r a n d f a t h e r w a s a watchmaker in Le Brassus, a man from the Meylan-LeCoultre family. I probably inherited from him. Otherwise I wouldn’t know what makes me so fascinated in watches. My father was a building contractor, and my mother was a seamstress. She was very good at the business aspects of her trade. My
father had almost no formal education, he came from a family of thirteen children, born as farmers in the outlaying countryside. These people never learned trades, but my father could do anything and everything. It seemed to be inherent for him. As one of five children, I helped my mother with the customers and bookkeeping. I learned about office work from her. I stayed in school as long as I had to, then I chose to work. I started out in a manufactory in Martel where we manufactured ébauches and chronographs. But that wasn’t all I wanted to learn. During my vacation time, I read the entire Dictionnaire Professionnel de l’Horlogerie, called the “Berner.” I just didn’t want to sit in school learning what they wanted me to learn. I was not interested in that. I wanted to see how things were made. In three years I earned my diploma, doing homework in the evenings. I learned a lot of practicalities,
Gran’ Chrono Astro
Cover storY
Aerodyn Lady in steel on bracelet
which formed an excellent basis for me. I just had a certain inner ambition. If I hadn’t been born in Les Ponts-de-Martel, I might never have seen the watch industry. This village was filled with it. Around 1960 I was dying to see a split-seconds chronograph. No one I knew had seen anything like this yet. Then I went to Mathey-Tissot, where I had sales customers and did things like order jewels for plates and bridges. It was different than today where one receives everything completely done on a movement. Once I received a 100-yearold petite repetition to be repaired. I brought this watch to Mr. Dubey for revision. That was in 1965, and it was my first contact with Georges Dubey. All because of a complicated watch. IWW: You did business with vintage movements and components.
40 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
CR: I bought these parts and then I figured out what I could do with them afterward. Then the quartz shock hit, and no one had any more confidence in the industry. It was also a difficult time for me. I myself took one or two years to reflect and see if I was still convinced in the future of the mechanical watch. I tried to do something else for a while, but then I realized that I still believed in the future. Vintage watches, vintage objects, those are really the most beautiful things. I did not want to waste any more of the time I have left on earth on something else. I began to deal in vintage watches in 1985, but it was difficult to find customers at the beginning. IWW: How did you get your own brand started? CR: I didn’t know how to begin either. But I thought to myself, ‘I will only use this much capital. I will not invest all of my money in this venture. I have no idea how it will turn out, but I will give myself one year before I look for work again at a factory.’ Then I went to England for three months to learn English. I spent all my free time at Sotheby’s and Christie’s and at the flea markets. I did anything and everything that had to do with watches. Of course I had previously had some experience in dealing with vintage objects, but not much. I did not find it proper to do that full-time while I was still working for someone else. My favorite objects had always been vintage pocket watches. I love them! But they were difficult to sell. I once bought a beautiful chronograph with a sa-vonette lid of the best
quality by Patek Philippe. I thought to myself, ‘I’ll have that sold within two weeks,’ but no one wanted this watch. That’s when I started dealing in wristwatches. People can wear them and they were popular. You have to buy what you can sell. You have to be able to give the customer what he is looking for. Traveling to antique markets in various cities, I began to attract a clientele. An article in the Swiss daily newspaper NZZ once brought me a customer who bought more than 140 watches from me. My concept was always this: You have to sell good watches. You may never sell a watch that isn’t good or that is defect. I delivered a history of the watch with each one I sold. I had studied them, finding everything in books and the watch museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The customer bought more than just the watch, he also bought its history. I always gave them a guarantee and would take the timepieces back if necessary. From ten years of dealing in vintage watches, I only ever had to take back three. I wanted to give my customers assurance and confidence, which they passed on by word of mouth. But to sell good wares I needed a good source. That was almost the most difficult part. A good product is easy to sell, but you need to find it first. IWW: That’s where you received your capital for the founding of Dubey & Schaldenbrand? You had nothing financed by banks? CR: The bank only controls you. I wanted to be free. If I made a mistake I didn’t want someone to come along and say, ’You have to do this, you have to do that, you need a bud-
Cover storY
get.’ IWW: How did it come to your takeover of Dubey & Schaldenbrand? CR: That is an interesting story. I loved working with vintage watches. I traveled to the U.S.A. and other countries, saw a lot, learned a lot. I didn’t need a brand, I didn’t need a name. Then one day the man who had taken over Mr. Dubey’s atelier, Mr. Baertschi, called me and said, ‘Would you like to take over Dubey & Schaldenbrand? You have twentyfour hours to decide, otherwise I will give the brand to someone else.’ I thought he wanted to sell it to someone in Germany, as the Germans were buying many Swiss brands at the time. I was resolved not to let that happen. I had the money he required, and with it I would be buying the brand and its entire history. That was worth it! I still owned a number of vintage movements, and all of a sudden this became a kind of mission for me. I had learned so much, I had watchmakers and everything I needed here in Les Ponts-de-Martel and La Chaux-de-Fonds. I was ready! The next day I simply said yes. I didn’t exactly know where to start, but I knew I wanted to make good watches. Not quartz watches. Mr. Dubey had never made quartz watches, and that point was very clear to me. I know they are more precise, but I didn’t want to waste my life on things without value. I wanted to make things I knew would still be there forty years later, like my vintage watches—things that remain. Quality is still a good thing to have; people prize it. They leave these pieces to their children and
42 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
grandchildren. These values come from my work with vintage watches. When I found a watch from 1850, I was filled with an incredible joy. I still have some watches like that that I will never sell. IWW: When you began in 1995 did you know that the brand would become so popular so quickly? CR: No. I never put any pressure on myself to sell a certain number of watches. At the beginning I was however resolved to distribute my watches in the same manner as the great brands, with distributors in each country and in good retail stores. Of course, at the beginning I had little money for advertising. I wanted and needed to put all of my money in developing the product, attaining the most quality possible. IWW: What percentage of your watches are sold in the United States today? CR: In 2001 it was about 20 percent. In 2002 it will be more, about 25 percent. America is a large market. IWW: Your watch designs have a certain distinction and style, but they are very obviously designed for men. As a woman, I would find it hard to create in such a masculine manner. How do you do it? CR: These designs are inspired by my love for vintage watches; these watches say the most for me. Of course they also display much of me, my imagination and fantasy. I never ask myself what my customers might want; I make them according to my own taste. That is my style. Period. Very often people come and ask if it would be possible
to do this or exchange that. At the beginning I actually did that. But I realized that didn’t actually change a thing. You have to be strong enough to know that what you are doing is just right. To go your own way. A thousand people will have 1,000 different tastes in watches. Despite this, I know of one watch that managed to fit the watch-buying public’s taste everywhere. This is rare, but it exists for example in Mr. Dubey’s Index Mobile. I was able to sell that everywhere. IWW: Where did you get the idea for the elaborately engraved and partially skeletonized rotors on your watches that have become D & S’s trademark? CR: From my previous work. There was a professor at the School of Art in La Chaux-de-Fonds who engraved vintage watches, tourbillons and the like for Comor. These movements and cases were so beautiful, they always fascinated me! You ask why I do it? If watches are hand-engraved, no two will ever be exactly alike. They are unique. Engraving breathes a breath of life into the watch. It has nothing to do with machines or millions of other watches. But in the watches’ technology I am all for innovation.You don’t have to work as the industry did 100 years ago, although an engraving as it was done then has nothing to do with the technology. And here on the movement, I always have the crest of the village of Les Ponts-de-Martel (a hammer and a bridge) engraved in a certain spot. Why do I do that? Because I am the only one to do that. No one has done that until now. Watchmakers used a certain hallmark
Cover storY
in Neuchâtel from about 1840 to about 1870, and it was easy to tell where and when these watches were manufactured. So then I thought,‘I’m not in Geneva and can’t use the Seal of Geneva. I am in Les Pontsde-Martel, and would like to display the fact that these watches were produced here.’ In a hundred years, when someone else is in charge of my company, or maybe no one is making Dubey & Schaldenbrand watches anymore, I want people to be able to recognize the crest directly and say, ‘That was Cinette Robert.This watch was made in Les Ponts-deMartel in that era.’
Aerodyn Lady in 18-carat gold (shown with and without diamond-paved bezel)
IWW: A watch is a window into the personality. What do your watches say about you? CR: I think you can answer that by now! IWW: Possibly so. Your watches represent your values. The values that you learned through your work with vintage watches. CR: I wouldn’t say they mirror my personality, but they do reflect a great deal of this geographical region—of the region, of times gone by and the people who work here, Les Ponts-de-Martel, and the master engravers. IWW: What do you have
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 43
Cover storY Aerodyn Lady in steel on strap
ments you did to power your watches?
planned for the future? CR: For that we need look no further than the past. I still have a great deal of vintage movements and parts. When the time is right, I will bring them onto the market. IWW: When did you acquire these components? During the quartz shock of the 1970s and 1980s? CR: Definitely no earlier than that time. I was able to acquire them for little money. In 1985, for example, a mere seventeen years ago, ETA officially sold off all of its movements. I even still have the letter to prove it. They liquidated everything. I was able to buy 10,000 automatic movements for five Swiss francs each. Completely finished. That was right at the beginning of my self-employment. I thought to myself, ‘Oh, that
44 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
would be 50,000 francs that I would need to invest.’ The movements were very large, and that was during a time when movements were getting thinner and thinner. Who would want them? I sold these very same movements a few years later for 300 francs each. Now they are worth 600. Transactions like this are a matter of having enough room to store such treasures and not getting anxious. You have to wait until the time is ripe. If you want to buy anything of value that is vintage, you have to do it immediately. Five minutes later it could already be gone. You have to decide quickly. You never have time to study, consider or decide. One day you get lucky, the next maybe not so lucky. IWW: Just one last question. Why did you choose the particular move-
CR: Over the decades, the industry has greatly improved movement components. The movements of today are the best they have ever been, especially when I think back to the results we had in the ’60s, ’70s, and even ’80s. Of course, it is less important to be precise to the second today. There are quartz clocks and gadgets everywhere that tell us the time. But it is important for other reasons to have a good watch. Today’s calibers run without any great problems. It’s fantastic! It was a great help to me to standardize my program. Our movements are all based on ETA 2892 and 7750 for chronographs. Those are simply the best two calibers there are. At the beginning I used Lémania, and today I am still having problems with those watches. That hurts, but I am grateful and happy to have had that experience at the beginning. Now I only use the best I can find—the quality components. In order to really know if a product is good or bad, it needs to be on the market for at least ten years. The 7750 caliber, for example, has been on the market for more than 25 years, since 1975. It has experience. We know how strong this movement is. Should I use a Piguet or a Lémania even though they are not qualitatively as good? I have a responsibility to my customers. This is my brand and I want satisfied customers. This is my policy and my experience. In 2002 we only had 127 repairs. The customer doesn’t need to spend his time on that bother, and we can spend our time on developing new products. We only lose time and money when we
AnniversarY
Fortis 1912 - 2002 Happy 90th Spaciversary! by Elizabeth Doerr
A
s was the case for many people, I’m sure, my personal introduction to the Fortis brand in the early 1990s came in the shape of the Flipper model. Although these nifty timepieces were available in every imaginable color and material, mine came in a set with a Swiss army knife and a Swiss yodelling tape, and the Flipper itself was neon green and decorated with Swiss flags and francs. It also came with an exchangeable steel frame on a green leather strap so that I could swap out the Flipper container at will. Although Fortis has just about closed the door on this chapter of its history, this plastic watch with its quartz movement and clever “pop” system – in my case a token gift for the press – became a favorite and was worn ad nauseum throughout the early nineties. I’m sure I was not alone. For much of the general public, the Flipper represented an introduction to this company whose specialty actually is and was the production of serious, excellent-quality watches. The Flipper, first introduced at the Basel Fair in 1967 by Fortis’s subsidiary brand, Eloga, was exceptionally innovative for its time. It was the first wristwatch with a monocoque plas-
62 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
tic case, actually a very clever little piece that could withstand water in depths of 50 to 200 meters! This by no means “cheap” watch was outfitted with either the manually wound FHF Caliber 96-1 or the reliable ETA 2824 automatic movement. Coming out with Mini Flippers for women and children, Eloga became the first Swiss brand to be offered for sale in department stores – an innovative concept for the era. Light years ahead of the plastic boom that would befall the industry in the seventies and eighties, the second Flipper series was also very successful, perfectly capturing the general style of the 1960s. Flippers were proudly worn by celebrities such as Roger Moore, Leonard Bernstein, the Rolling Stones and Liza Minelli. Although the Flipper was an interesting aspect in the history of the company, it certainly represented an exception to Fortis’ usual model pol-
icy. Founded in 1912 in Grenchen, Switzerland, by watchmaker Walter Vogt and his partner Alfred Rüefli as Kollektivgesellschaft Vogt und Rüefli zur Fabrikation von Uhren, the company’s main theme stressed the quality of its watches. Vogt had previously been an apprentice at Eterna, another company where quality was underscored. In those days it was usual practice for watch producers to purchase ébauches, or movement kits, and complete them by adding an
Walter Vogt founded Fortis with his partner Alfred Rüefli in 1912 as the Kollektivgesellschaft Vogt und Rüefli zur Fabrikation von Uhren.
Equipped with 100 days of power reserve, the Fortis Spacematic Eco is powered by an auto quartz movement 205.911.
AnniversarY
Above: a preliminary sketch of the Spacematic. Bottom right: Powered by the automatic 2893-2 movement, the Fortis Spacematic GMT boasts a date window at 3 o’clock and an additional 24-hour indication separately adjustable as a second time zone. Bottom top picture: Featuring a central stop-seconds function, the Fortis Spacematic Chronograph is equipped with an automatic 7750 movement.
escapement, jewels and a mainspring. Although most of them were using the same ébauches, it was entirely up to each of the producers to decide for themselves how much quality to invest in the completion of the movements. Vogt chose Switzerland’s A. Schild to supply his movement kits, a company of uncompromising quality and reputation. In 1914, one year after the Fortis brand was officially registered in Switzerland, Vogt and Rüefli parted ways and the company was now called Vogt & Cie S.A. It was later turned into a joint stock company and received the name it is still known by today: Fortis Uhren AG. Vogt received the chance to show both far-sightedness and willingness to take risks the day British watchmaker John Harwood showed up on his doorstep in 1924. Harwood had invented a wristwatch with automatic winding, a novelty in the industry, and was searching the
64 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
Swiss countryside for a watch company to manufacture his invention. Vogt recognized the potential of this innovation and ended Harwood’s search. Vogt, Harwood and movement supplier A. Schild then perfected Harwood’s construction for serial production. They, of course, used an AS caliber as the base movement for this. At the Basel Fair in 1926 Fortis presented the first serially produced wristwatch with automatic winding. This watch had no crown, and the time was set by rotating the bezel. In order to avoid mistakes, the watch was outfitted with a window that signalled whether the mechanism was activated to set the hands by showing the appropriate color in a window located on the dial. The watch was a success, confirming Vogt’s courage and zest for innovation. In what was perhaps Fortis’ first contact with air travel, this first serially produced automatic
AnniversarY
wristwatch proved its reliability by becoming a passenger on the premiere trip around the world made by the Graf Zeppelin. Although the effects of the world economic crisis caused Fortis to cease production of this particular model in 1931, Vogt may certainly be viewed as one of the fathers of the automatic watch; his decisions and courage surely leading to better and faster developments in this area of the industry. Some sixty years later, in the 1990s, Fortis founded the Harwood Watch Co. in order to produce a contemporary version of the English watchmaker’s crownless timepiece. The modern watches are truly beautifully manufactured replicas of the original. Twenty-five years after Vogt founded his company, the first Fortis chronographs entered the market. The most famous of these was the Wandfluh, a name reminiscent of a hill near Grenchen and also symbolizing the watch’s very robust construction. World War II, which followed the presentation of the Wandfluh model, saw Fortis constructing wristwatches for pilots of various armies. These were to be the inspiration for the design of pilot’s watches that would come out a good fifty years later. The war having ended, the company brought out its famous Fortissimo line in 1943. This timepiece was so celebrated because it represented the first water-resistant watch, and was also especially shock-resistant. The reason for this was its special case construction: The watch contained a monocoque movement container, and after the movement and winding stem were added, the container was closed off in the front with the addition of the crystal. Then the whole container was pressed from the back into the case, causing the crys-
66 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
Fitted with a blue crocodile skin strap, Fortis’ Official Cosmonauts Chronograph features a day/date indicator at 3 o’clock, a central stop-seconds hand and a tachymetric bezel.
AnniversarY
Pictured here with a powder blue crocodile skin strap and eleven diamonds on the dial, the Fortis Spacematic SL ladies’ watch comes with an autoquartz movement with automatic winding and boasts a 60-day power reserve.
tal to be completely water-resistant. 1948 rang in a new era for Fortis: Walter Vogt’s son Rolf joined the company. This was a man with talent for business and a nose for new trends, presenting Fortis to many as yet unexplored markets of the world, putting his money on quality, and in doing so becoming the leading brand in many of these countries. In 1956 Fortis brought out a wristwatch alarm, and in 1958 the Fortis Manager, the first water-resistant alarm for the wrist, followed. Its quality was also proven by the official chronometer certificate it was supplied with. During the quartz watch boom Fortis did not cease innovating. Previously introducing the topic of space with its Spacematic model (which had been chosen by NASA for Apollo missions), the company continued in this theme with the Spaceleader model in 1975. Contrary to trendy plastic watches offered at the time, this timepiece’s stainless steel case was treated to a special surface coating, giving the watch a hardness of more than 1,400 Vickers, making it practically non-scratchable. Just in time for Fortis’s 75th anniversary in 1987, the company found its way back to mechanical movements for good, resuscitating the good old pilot’s watch. These timepieces were styled very legibly as large (40 mm) accessories, deviating from the norm of the ‘80s and early ‘90s. With the introduction of the automatic Flieger Chronograph, Fortis not only created a new generation of watches, it set off an entire trend. Walter Vogt unfortunately could not experience the fruit of his labors; he passed away in 1957. At the age of 70, Rolf Vogt retired as managing director of Fortis. Today Vogt’s family still retains a small amount of
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 67
AnniversarY
In cooperation with the European Space Agency and the German Aerospace Center, Fortis is an integral part of the first experiment on board the International Space Station: GTS, or Global Transmission Service.
68 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
the company’s shares. The majority of them is however split equally by Peter Peter and Prince Ernst August of Hanover, although the company is managed and directed by Peter, a designer by trade. After acting as a consultant to Fortis, Peter took over the direction of the watch factory in 1990. Understanding the fascination of fine watches and good design, Peter has led this company to new heights, all the while staying in sight of the standards set by Walter Vogt in 1912. What had begun on the wrists of seven different American astronauts with the Spacematic in 1962 was now to be continued with the advent of the Official Cosmonauts Chronograph, and Fortis became old hat at sending watches into space, aided and abetted by Russian cosmonauts who “test drove” these reliable timepieces, giving Fortis “wish lists” of functions for the next generation of watches. The Official Cosmonauts Chronograph was implemented in space for the first time during the EUROMIR I mission in 1994, becoming part of the official equipment for Russian space activity. A tradition of sorts for Fortis that started with the MIR project, is now being continued on the International Space Station (ISS). Fortis and the DaimlerChrysler research division are participating in the GTS experiment being run on the ISS, an exciting project with a certain futuristic feel to it. In cooperation with the European Space Agency (ESA) and the German Aerospace Center (DLR), these companies – the project’s only industrial partners – are pioneering the first experiment on board the ISS: GTS, or Global Transmission Service. One possible use of the GTS is the global synchro-
AnniversarY
Shown here with a stainless steel bracelet or a black silicone strap, the Fortis Spacematic SL for women is available in a number of options.
nization of radio-controlled watches and clocks on earth, all the while taking the planet’s different time zones into consideration. In 2001 Fortis was awarded the Star of the Blue Planet, a high honor bestowed upon the company by the Russian space agency Rosaviakosmos, for its continued commitment in the development of mechanical chronographs for use in space.
70 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
In honor of Fortis’s 90th anniversary, the company brought out a very special limited edition timepiece in 2002. The Marine Master was originally constructed in 1967: Fortis used components that had been reserved for repair as well as the ETA 2784 movement originally utilized to construct a modern set of ninety pieces. The appearance of the striking timepiece, water-re-
sistant to 200 meters, is dominated by a decompression table located on the dial. s
ComplicationS
A New Take On An Old Classic
by Megan LiVolsi
IWC unveils new variations of two established GST models GST Perpetual Calendar Perpetual Perfection ombining a rich Swiss watchmaking tradition with sporty functionality and aesthetic appeal, IWC’s GST Perpetual Calendar chronograph masters the full complexity of the Gregorian calendar until the year 2499. Bringing together all the functions watch owners have on their list, the watch features a perpetual calendar function (day, date, month and year) as well as a perpetual moon phase display and a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock—all of which can be advanced synchronously via the screw-in crown. Clearly displayed on the dial at all times are the
C
74 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
correct date, day, month, phase of the moon and full year in four digits in the window at 8 o’clock, where the so-called century slide for the first two digits of the full year also appears but will not move until the year 2099, when it will change over to “21” for the next century. A replacement slide, which continues until “24”, also accompanies every new watch in a tiny sealed glass vial. First launched in 2001, the GST Perpetual Calendar is now available in two material and three dial variations. Powered by the IWC automatic caliber 79261 with 39 jewels, a frequency of 28,800 bph and a 44-hour power reserve, the GST Perpetual Calendar is currently offered in stainless steel or titanium. The 43 mm titanium case is robust, light in weight and extremely comfortable on the wrist. It is fitted with the patented IWC bracelet of the GST family, which can be readily adjusted by the wearer and is closed by a secure push-button clasp. The titanium model has a black dial with luminous white hands and indexes. The GST Perpetual Calendar in steel is available with three different dial options: a more discreet, light rhodium-plated dial with luminous hands and indexes; a white dial with rhodium-plated hands; or a high-contrast black dial with white hands. All models feature luminous hands and indexes finished in SuperLuminova, an antireflective sapphire crystal, ensured water resistance to 120 meters and an intricate engraving on the screw-down caseback. Suggested retail is $13,995.
GST Chrono-Rattrapante Always Right on the Button A sports watch must be robust, uncompromisingly functional and capable of handling extreme situations. To meet these exacting requirements, IWC unveiled the GST Split-Second Chrono-Rattrapante in 2001, which meets all the expectations of competitive sport with the added horological specialty of the highly complicated split-second mechanism. The watch is equipped with IWC’s 29-jewel automatic caliber 79230, which features a split-second hand that permits a second time or an intermediate time to be recorded. Offering everything a sporting watch enthusiast with high technological expectations could demand from a modern timepiece, the GST Chrono-Rattrapante is now available in both steel and titanium versions. The titanium model comes with a black dial with high-contrast white hands and indexes, while the steel versions are offered with either a rhodiumplated, black, blue or white dial. All models feature a red center-seconds hand, polished bezel and an antireflective sapphire crystal. Suggested retail is $9,495. s
76 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
ComplicationS
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 77
InspiratioN
Pushed to the Limit C
reated especially for motor racing enthusiasts and mechanical watch lovers, the new Oris F1 Allan McNish watch perfectly embodies the dynamics of performance pushed to the limit. Produced in a limited edition of 1,000 individually numbered watches, the watch pays tribute to Allan McNish, the champion race driver for the Toyota Formula One team in the 2002 Grand Prix season. Making his Grand Prix debut, the popular Scottish driver sported the Oris
name on his helmet and race overalls while wearing the original special chronograph of the TT1 line, with the crown positioned on the left side. Powered by a high-quality mechanical movement, the Oris McNish features a massive 42 mm stainless steel case with scratchproof sapphire crystal that protects the matte-black dial with Arabic numerals and day of the week and date windows at 6 o’clock. During the watch’s develop-
The new Oris F1 Allan McNish Edition by Greg Kinkead
78 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
InspiratioN
ment, McNish suggested positioning the crown on the left side of the case at 9 o’clock, which guarantees optimal security without irritating the back of the hand. As a result, maximum comfort is ensured for motor-sports activities. The benefits of the unusual crown position extend to left-handed individuals who like to wear their watch on the right wrist. With the crown located at 9 o’clock, it is easy to adjust the crown with the left hand. A quick glance at the watch reveals McNish’s unmistakable presence; the dial features a stylized tartan scarf and the driver’s signa-
Recent Accomplishments: 2002 Official Toyota Formula
2001 Official Toyota Formula
2000 Official Audi Driver in Le Mans and the American Le Mans Series
80 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
One Test Driver
Daytona 24 Hours—Risi Ferrari—Fastest Lap
ture is engraved on the movement’s red rotor, which is clearly visible through the mineral glass window of the embossed stainless steel caseback. The special-edition package also includes McNish’s helmet in miniature, a cardboard figure, a postcard with the driver’s original signature, and a certificate with personal data as well as information concerning F1 and the McNish watch. Water-resistant to 100 meters, the Oris McNish is fitted with a vulcanized black rubber strap with vertical tire treads and a hidden butterfly clasp with lateral pushers and safety clasp. Suggested retail is $1,200. s
One Driver
American Le Mans Series—Overall Winner and Prototype Class Winner
Born in Dumfries, Scotland, on December 29, 1969, McNish currently lives in Monte Carlo, Monaco.
1st Overall Petit Le Mans 1st Overall Adelaide Race of 1,000 Years, 2nd Overall Sebring 12 Hours
6 Wins, 10 Podium Positions, 4 Pole Positions, 7 Fastest Laps and 6 Lap Records Le Mans 24 Hours - 2nd Overall, Pole Position and Fastest Lap. Fastest in Pre-Qualification. Voted onto the All-America Auto Racing Team by the AAR WBA. Winner—Horsepower Award by the AARWBA Winner—British Racing Drivers Club Silverstone/Le Mans Challenge Trophy. Winner—Scottish Motor-racing Club William Lyons/Billy Smith Trophy.
Official Toyota Formula One Test Driver
1999 Official Toyota Driver in the Le Mans 24 Hours
Official Porsche Driver Rolex Daytona 24 Hours—Risi Ferrari—2nd Overall & Lap Record
An american traditioN
Commemorating Diving History with Morse Diving by Jordan Rothacker
M
orse Diving was originally founded in 1837 in Boston as a producer of brassware. With the advent of the Civil War they turned their trade toward building maritime fittings and experimented with early designs of underwater hardhats that they adapted from Siebe-Gorman and other design pioneers. The company truly came into its own after the war in 1864 when Andrew Morse bought out his partner’s share of the company and began the new focus of creating equipment for underwater salvage expeditions. Since that time, Morse Diving has continued to provide specialized underwater equipment, including functional and reliable watches for diverse operations around the world based on its many years of experience. These
88 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
two timepieces, which meet the exacting standards of Morse Diving, are a way for the company to remember its historic diving helmets through representation on the bold red dials. The first of the two Morse Diving watches is a limited edition to commemorate its 160th anniversary. This functional dive watch is encased in polished stainless steel and is individually numbered on the back. The red dial is ringed by luminous markers at each hour and features luminous sword-shaped hands underneath a mineral crystal with a date magnifier at the 3 o’clock position for the date window. Around the dial is a unidirectional rotating bezel bearing the hour indications. Powered by a Swiss-made 25-jewel automatic movement, the
An american traditioN
Commemorative Morse Diving watch is shock-resistant and antimagnetic with secured water resistance up to 200 meters with a screw-down crown. On a waterproof rubber band, this fine watch for underwater expeditions retails for only $350. A larger model, the Morse Diving MK V Standard, boasts a diameter of 40 mm. Named for the legendary diver’s helmet once designed for the U.S. Navy and now a standard to measure all other diving helmets by, the MK V is a watch that makes its name proud. In a sand-blasted stainless steel case, it is powered by the same 25-jewel Swiss movement as the Commemorative model. The dial has white hour indicators on red and features the same luminous strips found on the wide
hands. Secured with a mineral crystal within a unidirectional rotating bezel and a screw-down crown, the case is shock-resistant, antimagnetic and water-resistant to 200 meters. The MK V comes on a solid link stainless steel bracelet with over-locking clasp and retails for only $375. While both watches are made in Switzerland, they still preserve the standards and traditions of Morse Diving, a heritage that reaches all the way back to 1837 Boston, when the company was a mere maker of brassware and not the name in underwater equipment that it is today. These functional and commemorative pieces are currently being distributed by Deutsche Optik, the same company that brings us a variety of watches as well as other collectibles
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 89
A Look All His Own Cédric Johner’s latest handmade creations by Megan LiVolsi
T
o have your own unique look is virtually unheard of in today’s watchmaking industry. One of the few exceptions to the rule, the young Cedric Johner brand has not only accomplished this daunting task but has gained international recognition in only a few short years for its unique-looking high quality, handmade timepieces. Bringing a much needed breath of fresh air to the watchmaking world, Cédric Johner creates watches that are instantly recognizable; the signature cases have a distinct and unique shape, the quality movements are carefully modified and beautifully decorated.
90 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
Cedric Johner SA was established in 1997 by Mr. Cedric Johner and his wife, Christine, who together managed to scrape together just enough money to produce four 18-carat gold watches. Inspired by a strong desire to produce quality mechanical timepieces that looked like no other watches on the market, Johner made the cases himself, while the dials came from a supplier in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the movement came from Jaquet and the bracelets were made in Geneva (Johner made the clasps). Upon completion, Johner traveled to the Basel Fair that same year with the hopes of making contacts. By a
stroke of good fortune, he met a retailer from New York City who immediately bought two of the four watches and ordered another thirty pieces to be delivered in the near future. And so the Cedric Johner brand was born. The following year, Johner opened his own stand at Basel but because of its remote and hard-tofind location in a distant hall, he received very few visitors. Overall, the experience was somewhat disappointing. In 1999, however, Johner was offered a large display area in a prime location. On the first day he took an order for approximately
UniquE
$172,000 and by the end of the Fair, he had secured four new clients. Today, just five years after its inception, the Cedric Johner brand is a full watchmaking establishment in the small village of Vandoeuvres on the outskirts of Geneva. The rustic decor and the relaxed and good-humored atmosphere provide the perfect environment for the company’s watchmakers, who create horological masterpieces that are truly inspiring. With two master watchmakers, two technicians, two jewelers and an engraver, the company creates its own dials, bracelets, movements and cases to completion. Mr. Johner insists that each watch be handmade and hand-finished, thereby guaranteeing an incredibly exclusive line of production. Approximately 250 to 300 watches are produced each year with prices ranging from $5,000 for a small steel model to over $250,000 for a minute repeater that is completely paved with diamonds. “We will always manufacture a limited production of watches because I want to maintain that artisan feeling that my watches have,” Mr. Johner explains. Personalization is a key word at Cedric Johner. In fact, a customer can choose the metal, setting or engraving on the case, dial finish, strap, buckle and complication. And each of Johner’s timepieces is entirely handmade, which ensures that each customer will receive a totally unique timepiece. Choosing to produce a small quantity of watches with complicated movements rather than a large quantity of simple ones, Cedric Johner is truly a niche brand, one that perfectly suits collectors who hold a sacred reverence for the time-honored art of precision Swiss
watchmaking that is hard to come by in today’s watch industry. Depending on the complications his clients order, movements from various sources are delivered to Johner unassembled. “I have different suppliers for my movements,”
explains Mr. Johner. “I get base ETA movements with different modules from Agenor, from Jaquet, from Soprod for added complications, from Claret for tourbillons and minute repeaters, and the L.U.C. from Chopard for the Geneva Seal or for
Complications are a specialty at Cedric Johner.
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 91
UniquE
the perpetual bi-retrograde or perpetual calendar.” The pieces are then polished, engraved and personalized in true Johner style. As Mr. Johner points out, “Remaining small and compact means we can adapt to any special orders that come in.” To ensure and facilitate the supply of dials, Cédric Johner, F.P. Journe and Harry Winston recently formed a company in Geneva called ‘Les Cadraniers’ to produce dials for their three brands. “I am very proud of our dial manufacturer,” Johner says. “The quality is fantastic.” Born in Geneva
The movement of Cedric Johner’s Tourbillon Abyss is completely hand-guillochéd and acts as the dial of the watch. The decoration of the bridges, barrel and carriage have been designed and executed personally by Johner, himself.
92 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
in 1966, Cedric Johner received traditional schooling after which he completed a four-year apprenticeship at Chopard and then spent another four years in various jewelry workshops. In 1992, he struck out on his own and began making prototypes of jewelry and watches for some of Switzerland’s more wellknown companies. A man driven by a passion to create, Cédric Johner has developed one of the most unusual and masterful watch collections of today. In 1996, Johner perfected his first watch case and named it “Abyss.” An unusual mixture of spherical and geometrical design, the sleek case is rounded on the sides, yet is fitted with a hexagonal crystal that adds a touch
of understated elegance to the piece. Each case is created and finished completely by hand and is available in three different sizes. By 1997, Johner had begun manufacturing the first four creations in his Abyss collection: a regulator, a jumping hour and two classically elegant time-only watches. Over the ensuing years, the Cedric Johner brand has continued to create elaborate timepieces, adding dual time zones, perpetual calendars and similar complications. Because of their complex nature and bold design, Johner’s timepieces have received much international attention. A watchmaker obsessed with beauty and perfection, Johner insists on creating only the most unusual masterpieces of the highest technology. Using the signature Abyss case in 2001, Cedric Johner unveiled a new movement and four striking new models—a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar, a tourbillon, a minute repeater and a chronograph rattrapante. Focusing on excellence in technology and design, Johner and
UniquE his team in 2001 introduced the Caliber 10—a movement so meticulously crafted that it has earned the right to bear the prestigious Geneva Seal. Given only to Geneva watchmakers of the highest eminence, the
Seal constitutes a degree of watchmaking attesting to the highest standards in Switzerland. Johner’s Caliber 10 automatic movement features a 22-carat gold, oscillating rotor and a 65-hour
power reserve. It is exquisitely handfinished and engraved, and bears the Cédric Johner name and the Poinçon de Genève Seal. Also in 2001, Johner unveiled his striking Tourbillon Abyss. He worked tirelessly to create this world premiere: a tourbillon movement that is entirely hand-guillochéd and acts as the dial of the watch. The decoration of the bridges, barrel and carriage have been designed and executed personally by Johner, himself. The movement is decorated in such a way that various shades of gray develop, giving it depth and beauty as a dial. The watch has 110 hours of power reserve and is housed in an 18-carat rose gold case. Taking on another of watchmaking’s most complicated accomplishments, Johner recently introduced his Minute Repeater. A new complication for this young genius, the minute repeater movement is hand-assembled in the Vandoeuvres workshops. It has been developed and designed to exquisite perfection, and features a matte-finishing technique employed years ago that Johner sought to revive. As with all Cédric Johner timepieces, the movements and dials of these intricate watches are hand-created with the utmost attention paid to every detail. The brand’s white, yellow or rose gold bracelets have been designed and created by Johner and are exclusively manufactured in the company’s workshops. Dials are offered in guilloché or engraved versions, with various colored Arabic or Roman numerals, and can be enhanced with precious stones. s Personalization is a key word at Cedric Johner. A customer can choose the metal, setting or engraving on the case, dial finish, strap, buckle and complication.
94 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
UniquE
This magnificent Perpetual Calendar features a finely guillochĂŠd dial which displays the time, day, date, month and phases of the moon.
Avant-gardE
A Swiss Relaunch Offers a Good Time for Less
By Lauren Parker
F
or the most part, Swiss watches are serious business, particularly Swiss watches with more than a century and a half of history behind their name. But the Swiss brand Invicta, which was reintroduced to the market just over a decade ago, doesn’t take itself so seriously, and such irreverence has not only led to serious word-of-
108 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
mouth “buzz,” but serious retail sales among watch enthusiasts and newcomers alike. Invicta’s major thrust is “value at a price” and the brand makes no bones about it. Originally a “basic hand-winding watch with some automatics,” Invicta now has a broader approach, featuring everything from quartz to self-winding to decorated skeleton automatics,
with styling that ranges from funky oversized fashion looks to diamondand-gold dress models for both men and women. Through witty, aggressive ads, Invicta blatantly thumbs its nose at the more “serious” watch world. The various fun taglines succinctly make the same point: that the quality is high and the pricing is low. And
Avant-gardE
beauty
brains
Offered in a variety of bright colors, these stainless steel Invicta watches are equipped with a Swiss automatic movement, which is visible through the exhibition caseback.
what’s not to love? Invicta loves to say it. A sampling: “We make great watches, but lousy capitalists;” “Three generations of watch experts, not an accountant in the lot;” “The lady in the penthouse has a great view, but the lady one floor down isn’t complaining;” “Buy low, sell high. We never quite got the hang of that one.” Such semi self-deprecating humor works on two levels. One, it derides venerable watch competitors who use snob appeal to attract a highbrow audience; and two, it tells consumers that it shows character to pay a little less, as long as you’re savvy and get more for your money. “We come right out and say, ‘Hey, you don’t have to spend too
much,’” says Eyal Lalo, president of Invicta Watch Company of North America, and grandson of Misha Blum Coifman, who founded Invicta in Chiasso, Switzerland, 150 years ago. “We honestly believe the customer is smart and we have respect for that. For those people who have to have the latest brand just because it’s the latest brand, we’re not selling to them.” Invicta’s concept is to fill a niche in the watch market. “Not everyone can afford a $12,000 watch, but people still want high quality,” says Lalo. Invicta truly aims to offer something for everyone, and their pricing reflects that approach. Watches retail for as low
The Japy 51-Jewel Side Command Chrono While that mechanical wonder inside might be rocket science to you, (you never did solve that Rubik’s cube) our load and lock case system makes changing looks such a snap you’ll feel like a genius! And you’ll look smart too! (IQ enhancement will vary) So haul that gray matter over to...
www.japyusa.com or call 949-632-1145 for a catalog.
Avant-gardE
as $59 and range up to $12,500 for a platinum-and-18-carat gold model the company claims is a world first. The bulk of the business ranges from $150 to $300. Diamond lines, which capture the current trend of the moment, are all $999 and under (a Swiss-made ladies’ model features a half-carat of high-quality, full-cut diamonds for $399). Naturally, such pricing has some of Invicta’s competitors seeing red. “I’ve had people in the business say I am an insult to the watch industry, that we’re undervaluing the product by pricing it so low,” says Lalo. “But I believe the industry should be about the consumer. Maybe my competitors are envious, but the customer loves us. To tell you the truth, all those low-quality fashion brands are the true insult to the watch market.” If Invicta is going for the rebel label, its “in your face” approach does the trick. In addition to its witty ads, bold packaging, ad slicks, press kits and support materials are all bright yellow and black, shunning more traditional neutrals. Even gifts with purchase, such as street-wear jackets, carry the loud yellow-and-black colors. The Invicta winged logo has been modernized since its relaunch, but maintains the Swiss cross that reveals the watches’ origins. What Invicta doesn’t make in profit margins, it aims to make in volume. The United States comprises 70 percent of its business (its second largest market is Latin America, building upon a longstanding history in the region), and Tourneau recently praised Invicta sell-throughs at its New York Time Machine flagship store.
110 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
Avant-gardE
Great Face Hard Body
Never has a headache Ain’t Love Grand?
The Japy Type 32 It’s like the girl next door, higher mathematics, an erector set, and your father’s work ethic, all rolled into one sensuous chunk of high grade surgical steel. Actually, several interlocking chunks. Like Lego’s for watch nuts. Only sexier. And more expensive. Powered by the 20-jewel automatic Valjoux movement with 40-hour power reserve, this limited edition Invicta is crafted in 18-carat gold and platinum. The ceramic dial with textured sunray pattern is offered in a choice of colors and displays a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock, a 24-hour GMT function at 12 and a date window at 3.
Indulge yourself at www.japyusa.com or call 949-632-1145 for a catalog.
Avant-gardE
Aggressive Design With more than 1,500 models in the collection, Invicta certainly isn’t built on one single style statement or even one overall look. In fact, models range from superclassic (from dress to sporty) to superfashion, (electric colors and unusual case shapes) to superluxury (Invicta sold out all 200 limitededition platinum-and-gold pieces at $12,500). Back when the brand initially launched, the watches were more basic, such as steel and brass.
Today, Invicta features steel, gold and platinum, fashion colors and luxury diamonds, as well as quality automatics featuring a Valjoux 2892-17 movement with 40-hour power reserve. But “aggressive design,” as Lalo calls it, is Invicta’s calling card. The oversized, avant-garde Lupah (selected as the Official Timepiece of the 2002 Latin Grammy Awards and 2002 MTV Latin America Video Music Awards) makes the strongest fashion statement. The chronograph
Fashionably oversized with a polished stainless steel case, these colorful Aura chronograph models are water-resistant to 100 meters.
112 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
collection takes a spherical ap-proach, and the case is bulbous as are the dial and round chronograph pushers. The Swiss ETA movement is housed in a polished and brushed 44-mm solid stainless steel case, and oversized, bulbous numerals on the enamel dial give the effect that they are magnified under the crystal. Brightly colored padded Lorica straps (a highly durable material used in motorcycle racing) in orange, yellow, red or blue add a high-fashion dimensional touch, and their water-resis-
The new Invicta Cuadro houses a Swiss chronograph movement in a two-piece solid stainless steel case adorned with fifty individually set diamonds totaling 0.5 carats. The stunning jewelry bracelet is hand-woven from individual solid stainless steel links.
Avant-gardE
The functional Invicta Lupah is powered by a Swiss ETA movement that is housed in a polished and brushed solid stainless steel case. The spherical case design features a bubble-like crown and pushers.
tant microfiber blend makes them scratch- and stain-resistant as well. Dial hands are coated with Tritnite® for luminosity. Retail price: $299. At the higher end, the Lupah Pave features handset pave diamonds in four-prong settings for $9,000. The hexagonal Aura is another major fashion story. The collection features bright primary colors with a dimensional colored enamel case in matching monochromatic colors. Straps are also constructed from Lorica for sportiness. Retail: $249. Even without diamonds, the square Cuadro is a true jewelry watch, and, not surprisingly, the watch’s bracelet is hand-woven of individual
114 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
stainless steel links by a jewelry company in Italy. The case is built out of six different pieces. “We don’t just want to show our customers how much they are getting for their money, but we want to show them what our brand is capable of.” The bracelet itself has more than 150 individual pieces, including a dual deployment butterfly buckle. The Cuadro houses a Swiss chronograph movement in a two-piece dual fastening solid steel case, available with fifty diamonds totaling a half carat in weight. Retail: $495. But Invicta is not all about fashion. The brand carries a wide range of professional diving watch-
es and sporty chronograph models, many with automatic movements. The Invicta Extreme features a Swiss 25-jewel automatic movement, while the Subaqua features a Swiss chronograph Valjoux 7750 movement. The limited-edition Invicta Ladies Diamond Automatic uses a Valjoux movement that has been specifically modified for the watch. The movement is made from steel with a chrome finish and blue screws, all of which can be viewed through the sapphire crystal back. In February 2003, Invicta is looking back at its past. The company will be launching the 1948 Col-lection, which is an updated version of, you guessed it, the 1948
TrendsetteR
The Next Not-So-Big Thing From Bell & Ross T h e n e w M e d i u m 3 4 c o ll e c t i o n by Megan LiVolsi
Shown here with a beige dial, the Medium34 Automatic is available with a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet.
I
n an industry where everyone plays “follow the leader,” Bell & Ross has once again taken a bold step with the creation of a new medium-sized watch. At a time when brands from every end of the spectrum are going oversized, from Swatch to Oris and Ernst Benz to Panerai and IWC, Bell & Ross has shown its innovative and daring spirit once again with the Medium34 line. While some watches have been made as large as 52 mm, the newest introduction from Bell & Ross measures just 34 mm—large enough for most men yet small enough to fit comfortably on a woman’s wrist. “The aesthetics of our watches stem from a principle that is dear to all designers: function determines form,” explains Design Manager Bruno Belamich, who together with Carlos Rossillo, founded the Bell & Ross brand in 1994.
116 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
TrendsetteR
The Medium34 range includes two versions: a mechanical self-winding model with time and date functions and a quartz-powered, 3-dial chronograph. Designed for those who require readability at a glance, the Medium34 Automatic boasts an easy-toread dial in beige, gray or black with
luminous hands and a date window at 6 o’clock. The 34-mm satin-polished stainless steel case features a curved antireflective sapphire crystal and a sapphire exhibition back that reveals the highly decorated Swiss automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve. Waterresistant to 100 meters with a screw-
down crown and caseback, the Medium 34 Automatic is fitted with a matching satin-polished stainless steel case or a leather strap and ranges from $1,800 to $2,300. Exuding pure functionality and sporty appeal, the new Medium 34 Chronograph combines the principles of readability, performance and
The Medium34 Automatic is powered by a Swiss automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve.
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 117
The Medium34 Chronograph combines precision functionality with sporty appeal.
TrendsetteR
Offered with a beige, gray or black dial, the Medium34 Chronograph is large enough for most men yet small enough to fit comfortably on a woman’s wrist (shown here in actual size).
precision that are inherent to the Bell & Ross brand. Powered by a Swiss-made precision quartz movement, it is housed in a 34-mm satinpolished stainless steel case with
scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The beige, gray or black dial reveals luminous hands, three chronograph counters and a date window at 6 o’clock while the screw-down crown
and caseback guarantee water resistance to 100 meters. Offered on a matching stainless steel bracelet or a leather strap, the Medium34 Chronograph can be yours for between
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 119
Mr. Eric Loth
CEO of The British Masters
by Sutjahjo Ngaserin Having studied engineering and obtained a graduate degree in physical metallurgy as well as in management, Eric Loth began his career with the Swatch Group as a product development manager. In 1987, he launched the Centre for Product Development. After having managed several watch case companies on behalf of the Swatch Group, such as Georges Ruedin SA and Lascos Spa, and having created a technological start-up specializing in “metal injection molding” in 1992, he took over as head of Gianni Bvlgari Watches. In 1994, he set up Les Monts SA and P2M Consulting. This involved putting his skills at the service of such brands and groups as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Bvlgari Time, Samsung, Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, Jaquet-Droz and Reuge Music. Today, Graham, Tompion and Arnold & Son are three of the British Masters’ brands that have found a very strong niche in the mid to high-end watch market, specializing in innovative watches that are generally considered a good value for the money.
120 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
IWW: Since I am sincerely impressed with the depth and breadth of your knowledge, obviously not limited to the watch industry, I will start with a really tough question to floor you. The British Masters has been ac-cused by some as a nonBritish company pretending to be one. What is your view on this?
and manufacturing their products in the most advanced region of the world, which is the region of Swiss Jura.
EL: As a matter of fact, Graham and Arnold & Son watches are manufactured in Switzerland as mentioned on the dial. But your statement remains inappropriate for the following reasons. The origin of our brands, including their story and im- pressive contribution to the development of mechanical watches, is definitely British. This is where all our inspiration and strategies are coming from. Second, our closed club of shareholders comprises a British member, whose name and reputation as the oldest London retailer’s family is well established. William Asprey is also acting as a member of our board of directors and participates actively in our development. So, as most of the complicated parts like escapements, springs and rubies for the movement, cases, dials and hands of sophisticated mechanical watches are still exclusively manufactured in Switzerland, it remains impossible, at this date, to manufacture a fine watch entirely out of Switzerland. In other words, the British Masters are developing
EL: The story simply started with the meeting of three passionate people who wanted to create a new business in mechanical and innovative watches. Our quest for uniqueness and our passion for technical history naturally drove our search to the great British Masters. It became clear to us that we had to adhere to the past British way to meet our actual wishes for mechanical innovation. So, we took the control of six of the most famous historical names, including our main brands, Arnold & Son and Graham, and built our company in 1995. The original players were Mr. Thomke, Mr. Finazzi and I, acting as CEO. We lost Mr. Finazzi in 2001, but gained two other decisive partners in the meantime; they are Mr. Jaquet and Mr. Asprey.
IWW: How was the idea of the British Masters conceived? And who were the original players and shareholders? Any changes since then?
IWW: Can you elaborate a little on your role and that of fellow shareholders in the British Masters? EL: It is always difficult to talk about someone’s own role in the develop-
ment of a new company. However, I can say that my past experience as product development manager, as well as my education as mechanical engineer and materials physicist, contributed to bringing a technical substance to our products. My further experience in crisis management and business turnaround, first at The Swatch Group and then as management consultant under my own company, also contributed to
EL: Because all our financial means were dedicated to the development of our brands and products, there was no available money for our salaries. For this reason, we started a consulting business in parallel, under the company name P2M Consulting (P2M for Product and Process Management), and worked on specific projects with Samsung Aerospace, Rollei Cameras, and also watch companies
thirteen years as product development and production manager for The Swatch Group, and three years as managing director of Gianni Bvlgari’s projects. In total I am adding not less than twenty-two years of business practice. IWW: In my personal opinion, the Graham Foudroyante is truly a revolutionary watch. When and why did Jaquet decide to develop this
Left to right: Graham Foudroyante Lightning 1/8th Second, Graham Foudroyante with white dial, Graham Silverstone, Fly-back, GMT & Big Date; all adjustments can be made from the same crown
include a rational control during the romantic period of start-up. Maybe I could consider myself as the natural father of the British Masters, but I would emphasize on the decisive contribution of my other partners that became all of them, adoptive fathers of the British Masters. IWW: Is it true that you have worked for companies, such as Daniel Roth and Samsung. If so, can you elaborate? And how have those experiences shaped you as a person?
122 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
such as Audemars Piguet, Roth and Genta, Jaquet-Droz and, last but not least, Rolex Industries. As these consulting mandates were concerning sensitive questions, you will understand that I am not in a position to elaborate on them. How-ever, I shall agree that these experiences brought me a lot of complementary knowledge regarding the watch industry. As already stated, this experience was added to my former life within the industry;
watch? And what are the respective roles of Jaquet and Girard-Perregaux on this piece? EL: Mr. Jaquet is not only a partner to the British Masters, but he also is our most strategic supplier of our special movements. We contacted Mr. Jaquet first in 1995, at the early days of our project life. We wanted to create a unique and clearly different chronograph as the first tribute to George Graham. After a fantastic
and deeply technical brainstorming, we came to the conclusion that it would be possible to create a Foudroyante chronograph. We first planned to make a one-tenth second Foudroyante, but the technical side showed limits that created great danger for the continuation of the development. We finally decided to realize a one-eighth second for three reasons: 1) the Foudroyante mechanism could then be directly connected to the escapement that is a 4- hertz frequency, without intermediary gear system that would have made the system heavier and more delicate; 2) the average human time reaction from an event to a muscular reaction is one-fourth of a second, so we applied a double precision to this parameter; 3) the British never use the metric system and they like to divide distance, weight and money in half, fourths and eighths, so why not do the same for timing? Mr. Jaquet was so motivated that he proposed to include another function he was already using in his wonderful Venus Chronograph [an old Venus chrono with outstanding performance that he redeveloped entirely with his own improvements]. This function is a coaxial spilt second, meaning that the split command is done through a pusher included in the crown. The movement was finally developed after two years of efforts and a lot of trial and error prototypes. We realized a dream watch for rebirthing the Graham 1695, a unique automatic movement with Foudroyante second, coaxial spilt second and bicompax counters [two counters at 3 and 6 o’clock].
So, we delivered the first Graham Fou-droyante watches in gold with twin barrel springs and twin column wheels in autumn 1997. GirardPerregaux delivered theirs more than two years after, since it was not possible for us and Jaquet to keep such an expensive development for ourselves indefinitely. We have to agree that GP also contributed to the movement improvement by giving further advice to Jaquet to disconnect the two barrel springs in case of extended use.
dent movement maker whose operations are managed by the family. This company is able to realize modifications and customizations of existing movements, but also develops entirely new movements or improved reproductions of older movements. A visit to the company may give you more information, as this company is manufacturing all parts, screws, pins, gears, platin, bridges, etc., except the escapement. Jaquet is also delivering movements or parts to some of the most prestigious brands in Switzerland. We are proud to have Mr. Jaquet as partner and his company as supplier. IWW: Jaquet seems to like Valjoux ebauches a lot. Any particular reason?
Vintage Graham movement
IWW: I feel that the Jaquet factory is one of the most complete watch
production lines without an inhouse movement. Do you agree? Can you elaborate a little for the benefit of our readers? EL: Your statement is extremely pertinent. Jaquet remains, in my knowledge, the last and unique indepen-
EL: Mr. Jaquet does like ebauches from Valjoux because he and his engineers know this movement from several years as the most reliable and service-friendly mechanical chrono available. By knowing the base motor, he can customize and create im-pressive movements that remain qualitative despite their higher innovative degree. Until last year, it was a movement that was easily available from The Swatch Group for every Swiss established company. Now the future seems to become more difficult since The Swatch Group wants to progressively reduce its deliveries of ébauches to non-group companies. However, we have confidence in Mr. Jaquet’s sense of entrepreneurship and good vision for the future. He will find his way. IWW: Graham Foudroyante, Chrono-Fighter, Silverstone and
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 123
Graham Chrono-Fighter, note the big Release-levers used by British RAF Pilots during WW-II
the wonderful Collectors, in fact, all your watches have that specific design allure that is very “Graham� to me. Finazzi has always been perceived as the designer of all British Masters watches. In his absence, do you expect a big change in style? Or worse, a drop in your design quality?
to translating our future inventions according to our visions.
EL: It is true that we always presented Mr. Finazzi as the designer of our products. His competence is not contested, but he was not trained as a technician or an engineer, and our products are highly technical in content. We see no troubles in the future as we are continuing with two designer teams: one for Graham and another for Arnold & Son. They are not technicians, either, like we are, and they have their own track that will contribute
EL: Luxury in the watch business depends more on products than on advertising and pure advertising. Highest end consumers are passionate about excellence and want to be caught or surprised by outstanding products under a remarkable label or brand name. The designer is one of the components for a good product development but will never be able to realize an outstanding high-end mechanical watch alone. Ac-cording to my own expertise in
124 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
IWW: What do you feel about watch designers? Do you believe they should be allowed to fully express their creative freedom, or should their designs conform to company philosophy?
product development, I can confirm that the most important parameter remains to elaborate a good concept or a product vision usually coming from a company CEO, giving clear room for engineers and designers [the briefing], obliging them to collaborate by giving them time pressure and at the end, testing the product with limited but highly competent partners from the market.
IWW: All your brands are specific in product range. For example, Graham watches are limited to only chronographs, so does that constrain your business strategy severely? Or do you think it is a good strategy? EL: George Graham did several historical inventions, but among all he realized the very first wall chronograph. This is the reason why we decided to concentrate our developments on chronographs. This could appear as a limitation of creative space, but in contrary our focused strategy for Graham watches allows us to expand the existing bounds of chronograph making. With more than a dozen new products in the R&D process, considering the fact that we limit our products launching to one per year, we still have some future prospects for growth. IWW: I can’t tell you how much I love your Graham Collectors Single Button Chronograph! It has a beautiful movement and is the best looking chronograph I have ever seen. And then the Arnold & Son Triple Time Zone Tourbillon is just stunning. Are you going to higher and higher ends? Or am I reading too much into these two models? EL: Following our success with the limited edition of twenty-five rose gold Arnold & Son Tourbillon Triple Time Zone, we have decided to introduce a special product for Graham and Arnold & Son on a regular rhythm. Our next Graham limited edition is named Graham King George and will be a multicomplication, including a world premiere feature. This series will be limited to five pieces in platinum
126 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
and five pieces in rose gold and will be delivered in 2003. Another Arnold & Son project was recently patented and is on the way for 2004, while the promised last series of twenty-five white gold Tourbillon Triple Time Zone will be delivered in 2003 to our markets. IWW: Jaquet has some very creative ideas and often brilliant implementations. But there is a feeling that some Jaquet movements are “everywhere” and seen in too many
top luxury. IWW: The Jaquet movement used in Panerai Independent Seconds, for example, is simply unbelievable! Why not let the British Masters use it first? EL: It was not a chronograph, meaning it was not intended for Graham; and it was not an accurate movement due to its old blue steel hair spring, and was not intended for Arnold & Son Timekeepers. IWW: With the industry seemingly dominated by the three big conglomerates, The Swatch Group, Richemont and LVMH, do you see a future for small independent companies like yourself, or are the days of independent watch com-panies numbered?
George Graham different watches. Will that pose a problem for the British Masters public image? EL: Jaquet is making his own standard and exclusive movements that he now delivers to limited high-end brands. Thanks to a larger distribution of his specialties, he can amortize his development and tooling costs faster and start the new projects regularly. Jaquet is also realizing reserved movements or customizations for the British Masters or other limited-production companies from
EL: As long as there are independent retailers and distributors, there will be independent watch brands that will always find young entrepreneurs that will become their suppliers. This is part of the Swiss mentality that someone creates his/her own business, a kind of production federalism which is typical to the Swiss watch industry. IWW: I noted your watches are still a pretty “good value for the money,” but so many brands are raising their retail prices significantly, and in some cases, violently! Do you think modern collectors have thrown “value” out of the window? Or is there a valid reason? EL: If you do look backward, the British Masters have shown that they are not following the marketing inflation of prices. Due to our
fast growth, we are in a position to defend our price positioning on a long range of years. So our products, Graham and Arnold & Son, will increasingly become more valuable for the money to passionate collectors and connoisseurs. IWW: Why didn’t you exhibit at the Basel Fair in 2002? EL: The Basel Fair organization was not in a position to allow us an appropriate location. The British
Masters is not looking for participation to the Basel Fair for sales reasons, but rather to share values and presentation with our partners from the market. That is the only reason we decided to postpone our participation, until the day when the Basel Fair organization will offer a convenient space to the British Masters. IWW: How do you see the position of the British Masters in the next ten years? Any excitement for us collectors to look forward to?
Arnold Timekeeper III, 7-days Power Reserve
EL: The British Masters, togeth-
INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH 127
er with its brands Graham and Arnold & Son, still retains a fantastic potential for growth. However, our products’ complexity will restrain our volumes and maintain a limited offer to the market. We will go for special products that will increasingly attract the passionate lovers of chronographs with Graham and world timekeepers for Arnold & Son and will become the ultimate “niche leaders.” IWW: I have heard a lot about Dr. Ernst Thomke. What can you tell our readers about this man? EL: Dr. Ernst Thomke is a brilliant man. He is known for having saved the Swiss watch industry when he merged and restructured a majority of Swiss movement makers under the ETA Company. He is also considered the original father of the Swatch and the savior of Omega, Rado and Tissot in the ’80s. He is equally known as an aircraft pilot that can fly large planes by instruments, as a sailing skipper who won an Atlantic race in 2001, the chairman of a Swiss biotechnological investment fund and the owner of the largest gold making company in Switzerland. He is a valuable and decisive partner for the British Masters. IWW: Who is your favorite watchmaker of all time? And your favorite living watchmaker not working for the British Masters? EL: My preferred watchmakers in history are, this will not be a surprise for you, a) George Graham for his decisive contribution to mechanical horology and his proverbial humility; b) John Arnold for
128 INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH
his extraordinary contribution to precision timekeeping and active participation to the quest of the Longi-tude, but also for the opportunity he gave to the most famous explorers from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries to find their routes at sea. My preferred living watchmaker is definitely François-Paul Journe, for his unique realizations, his personal commitment to each of his babies and his bright understanding of modern complications. IWW: I understand that you are a food connoisseur and is someone who appreciates fine wines. How important is good food and fine wines compared with watches. EL: Thank you very much for considering me as a connoisseur of food and fine wines. My father, who was professor in the engineering school of Neuchâtel, transferred his two passions of techniques and good wines to me. My passion for good food came from my mother, who was Italian, from Tuscany. You see then that passion is often a heritage. Today, I am proud of my wine collection and I feel very close to my customers who collect Graham and Arnold & Son specialties.
Arnold & Son, GMT Master Tourbillon with Triple TimeZone
IWW: What are your favorite British Masters and non-British Masters watches? EL: My favorite Arnold & Son is the Longitude, because this watch appears to me as a summary of the entire Arnold & Son history. Its new version, which will be delivered for Christmas, is exciting me a lot. My preferred Graham watch is not available yet, but might be introduced to the market next year, its code name Swordfish. I also will, one day, buy for my other collection of watches a F-P Journe Tourbillon with constant force winding, and the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph. Both are, in my eyes, the most remarkable technical achievements of the last decade and represent out-