A p r i l
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2 0 1 5
kauai magazine Celebrating Kauai for 35 Years
KERI COOPER PHOTO
The Original Magazine of the Garden Isle
NORTH SHORE
A lush, almost prehistoric jungle appearance.
Taste of Hawaii
The Ultimate Sunday Brunch
Fresh Water Fun
Try a little river recreation
“Adam’s Ahi Poke Nachos” from Hukilau Lanai, Taste of Hawaii 2014 “People’s Choice Award”
H&S ARCHIVES
8 KERRY ODA FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY / KERRYODA.IFP3.COM
in this issue ...
12
FEATURES 8 North Shore
A lush, almost prehistoric jungle appearance.
Exploring the rural communities of Moloaa, Kilauea, Kalihiwai, Hanalei, Wainiha, and Haena is like taking a step back in time.
12 Fresh Water Fun
Try a little river recreation
Kauai’s river and stream activities range from lazily low key to wet, wacky and wild.
18 Kauai’s Hidden Wonders from Above
90% of the island is not accessible by land
Kauai is blessed with wild, untouched natural beauty unlike anywhere else on earth and much of it is completely unaccessible except by air.
COLUMNS PHOTO COURTESY OF KAYAK WAILUA
18 Editor & Publisher H&S Publishing, LLC
Robert Self
808 212-5333
bob@kauaimagazine.com
KAUAI STORIES 28 A Son’s Courage
SERVICES 24
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Kauai Professional Services
Information Systems Distribution
Photography
Publishing Director
Rob Sanford
COMMUNITY 5 Taste of Hawaii
Tylar Self H&S Publishing Kerry Oda (www.kerryoda.ifp3.com)
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Advertising Sales “Printed using recycled paper and environmentally sensitive ink.” Jennifer Reno 808 651-5629 jennifer@kauaimagazine.com KAUAI MAGAZINE ESTABLISHED 1980 is published by H&S Publishing LLC. Copyright © 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Publisher is not responsible for any liability associated with any product or service offered by the advertisers. All editorial information is deemed reliable but not guaranteed. Editorial, advertising and business offices are located at 4330 Kauai Beach Drive, Suite G21, Lihue, HI 96766. Telephone: (808) 212-5333
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2 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
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COMMUNITY
The Taste of Hawaii is one of Kauai’s signature annual fund-raising events, billed as the Ultimate Sunday Brunch.
The results of the 2014 Taste of Hawaii event appear below.
OVERALL AWARDS People’s Choice (Overall)
Hukilau Lanai, Chef Adam Phelps
Favorite New Discovery Green Pig, Chefs Erron & Jake Depew, Faith Kinimaka Lopez
F
eaturing 50 food stations staffed by some of the best chefs in Hawaii cooking for you “live” on the beautiful grounds of Smith’s Tropical Paradise. Sample culinary delights all afternoon, and then vote, letting the chefs know what you think. Dishes include island-style specialties like shrimp, scallops, beef, veggies, pasta, salads, desserts, and more. Beverage stations include: beer, wine, coffee drinks, juice, soft drinks, and water. Shoppers can visit the silent auction between bites to find bargains and Kauai souvenirs. Music performed at several bandstands throughout the park completes the festive, upscale garden-party atmosphere. The Taste of Hawaii is sponsored by the Rotary Club of Kapaa, a non-profit network of business professionals who raise funds to do charitable works on Kauai and overseas. Next year’s Taste of Hawaii will be held on Sunday, June 7, 2015 from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tickets for the flat-fee, all-you-can-eat event are available through the Rotary Club of Kapaa. For more information, visit their website at: www.tasteofhawaii.com 4 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
Best Presentation
The Fairmont Kea Lani, Chef Tylun Pang
Best “Aloha Spirit” Booth
Kawaii Cupcake, Chef Christine Ichikawa
“FAVORITES” Dessert
Kawaii Cupcake, Variety of delicious cupcakes
Seafood
Pacos Tacos, Fish Tacos
Meat/Poultry
Green Pig, BBQ Open-faced Pork Sliders / Ranch fried Mac-n-Cheese
Vegetarian Heartflame Bakery, Vegetarian Gluten Free Savory Focaccia
Beer Kauai Beer Company Wine Nani Moon Mead Non-Alcoholic Rainbeau Jo’s Water Hawaii Volcanic Water
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North Shore Kauai
The physical beauty of the North Shore has a dramatic impact on all who are lucky enough to experience it. The Hanalei Valley
H&S ARCHIVE PHOTOS
T
8 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
he uninhabited cliffs and valleys of the worldfamous majestic Na Pali Coast are the focal point of Kauai’s scenic North Shore. Beautiful, curving crescents of sand, towering, misty mountains, and rivers winding through expanses of green, fertile land present a perfect portrait of paradise. The North Shore receives more rain than other accessible parts of the island, which gives this area its lush, almost prehistoric jungle appearance. Exploring the rural communities of Moloaa, Kilauea, Kalihiwai, Hanalei, Wainiha, and Haena is like taking a step back in time. In contrast, the luxurious Princeville Resort and environs welcome you back to the upscale present. The scenic lookout above the Hanalei National Wildlife Sanctuary (across the highway from the Princeville Shopping Center) is the gateway to the heart of the North Shore and a visual feast of 140 acres of taro fields. This geometric expanse of taro and other fields at the entrance to Hanalei is a patchwork of deep green, bright chartreuse, and chocolate brown, and is the most tangible direct link to native Hawaiian life from the past. The view is so stunning, it can transport you back thousands of years. Oral family histories and archaeological research and artifacts indicate that by 1000 A.D., native Hawaiian families were living in the valleys of Na Pali, cultivating taro and other food crops. They raised and hunted animals for food, cultivated and gathered plants for fiber and medicine, and raised fish in ponds. Many of today’s kupuna (elders) can trace their families back to those who lived in these valleys. Still strongly tied to the old places and the old ways, they hope to preserve and perpetuate continued on page 10
Above left: Kilauea Lighthouse Left: Waioli Huiia Church in Hanalei hawaiigateway.com
continued from page 8
the indigenous lifestyle on the North Shore. A grass shack found in Milolii Valley has been reconstructed and preserved in the Bishop Museum in Honolulu as an example of fine craftsmanship and skilled use of island-available materials. As idyllic as it may sound, that subsistence way of life in those remote valleys has died out. Most are content with camping for a few days in the verdant Kalalau Valley. Permits are necessary and getting into these areas requires either a strenuous hike (carrying everything you need in and back out) or a prearranged boat or helicopter trip to drop you off and pick you up. The walk to the Kalalau Valley from the Kee Beach trailhead is 22 miles round trip. Taro was the staple food of early Hawaiians for many generations, but today eating rice, bread, and potatoes (especially in urban areas) is easier and cheaper. Recently, however, some grandparents, parents, and children have attempted to reestablish that link to the past by standing together for many hours in the mud of the fields, bent over to plant, weed, and harvest taro. Over 60% of the state’s total taro production is grown on Kauai, much of it on the North Shore. Taro farming is not the only aspect of the Hawaiian lifestyle that lives on, however. Walk into a restaurant, a supermarket, or ask a question at a hotel or vacation rental, and you will often find yourself in a conversation with someone who treats you like a long-lost friend or relative. “Talking story” is
10 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
a big part of the “Aloha Spirit.” Following the road down from the National Wildlife Sanctuary overlook into Hanalei Valley, you encounter the first in a series of picturesque one-lane bridges. The town of Hanalei, just beyond the first bridge, sports charming little shops, galleries, and restaurants. The North Shore is home to many artists. Buildings in the Wai ‘Oli Mission District date back to the 1820’s. Hanalei Bay, which once served as a harbor for whaling and trading vessels, is one of the most beautiful spots on earth and is very popular with both visitors and “locals.” Continuing along the coastline, many stunning beaches await: Lumahai, where Mitzi Gaynor washed that man right out of her hair in South Pacific; Makua, or Tunnels Beach, a favorite surf and snorkeling spot; and the unbelievably beautiful Kee Beach at the end of the road with the deep green Na Pali cliffs rising skyward in the background. Hollywood has used much of Hanalei to Kee Beach as its back lot. In addition to South Pacific, television and film features made here include Jurassic Park, Uncommon Valor, King Kong, Body Heat, The Thorn Birds, Lord of the Flies, Throw Mamma from the Train, The Wackiest Ship in the Army, Pagan Love Song, and others. Sightseers can get a glimpse of the unrivaled beauty of the North Shore’s coastline by kayaking, taking a boat tour, by heli-
copter flight, or airplane tour. The crews provide narration about the history of the area. When sightseeing the Na Pali Coast by water, you can choose catamaran cruises or rigid-hulled inflatables (sometimes called Zodiacs). The tours may include snorkeling, lunch, sunset-watching, or, in winter, whale watching. Whichever mode you choose, the experience is sure to be one you will never forget. Sun and rain yield luxuriant vegetation, from the tops of jagged mountains to rolling pastureland and plateaus. Clouds blown against the mountain ridges release their moisture into waterfalls gushing and tumbling hundreds of feet into rivers and streams, and ultimately into the glorious blue Pacific. The beaches are postcard perfect and have been an inspiration to many a songwriter, poet, and artist. Filmmakers, painters, and photographers have fallen under the spell of the North Shore, and you will, too. At the end of the road, cliffs overlook Kee Beach, and the water is so clear you can see fish, sea turtles, and coral from yards away. The North Shore of Kauai holds tight to its Hawaiian history and heritage. Its little communities and families treasure the quaint and quiet lifestyle, yet there is enough room to coexist with modern luxury resorts. The magnificent mountains and ever-changing sea overcome all differences on the North Shore, Kauai’s island on an island.
hawaiigateway.com
What would river recreation be without kayaking, fishing, swimming or bathing under a fresh mountain waterfall.
On Kauai, all are mandatory summer activities.
R
eady for a dip in cool, clear, fresh water that was born in the mist covering the mountains? Had enough salt water? Feel like relaxing on flat calm waters instead of fighting shore break, or kicking back with fishing pole? Try a little river recreation. Kauai’s river and stream activities range from lazily low key to wet, wacky and wild. Because Kauai is oldest of the eight main Hawaiian Islands, it has undergone more erosion. This has created more plains and rivers than on the other islands. Lush tropical foliage and fluted mountains are easily viewed from any of the island’s six kayak-perfect waterways. The rivers include the Waimea, the Hanapepe, the Huleia, the Wailua, the Kalihiwai and the Hanalei. None of these rivers are navigable for more than 3 miles upstream but they offer the perfect day trip for a leisurely swim, hike and picnic. Kayaking on Kauai’s rivers is the most popular form of self-propelled water recreation for visitors because the island waterways offer such diversified trips for paddlers of all ages and abilities. As kayakers glide quietly along, they’ll discover tropical rain forests, native dry-land woods and swampy jungles, accented by a riot of colorful flowers kissed by butterflies and insects. The Waimea is Kauai’s longest river and can be accessed from Lucy Wright Park in Waimea town. The mouth of the Waimea
12 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
opens into the bay where British Captain James Cook anchored in 1778 and “discovered” the islands. Just east of Waimea, the Hanapepe River glides lazily past picturesque buildings of another era. Descendants of the first immigrant sugar mill workers “talk story” outside the stores in town. The Huleia River empties into Nawiliwili Harbor near the Niumalu Beach Park. The river traverses the base of Haupu Ridge and meanders past Alekoko or Menehune Fish Pond. The wetlands, along the northern shore comprising the Huleia National Wildlife Refuge, shelter migratory resident waterfowl and gorgeous foliage. Guided and independent kayak tours offer a real-life jungle adventure. You’ll see where Indiana Jones swung from a vine into the river to escape from the blow darts of the angry natives in Raiders of the Lost Ark. Also, a guided tour can take you to the location of the opening waterfall scene. Between Lihue and Kapaa, the Wailua River is easily accessible from Wailua River State Park on Kuamoo Road ( route 580). This wide, calm river mouth, adjacent bay and the banks and bluffs above the river were once important religious centers. Royalty and high chiefs made their homes near the river mouth. The remains of heiau (ancient Hawaiian sacred sites) and waterfalls can be explored on a continued on page 16 hawaiigateway.com
H&S ARCHIVE PHOTOS
Fresh Water Fun
Top: Menehune Fish Pond Left: Stand-Up-Paddling on the Hanalei River Above: Kalihiwai River entering into the Kalihiwai Bay continued from page 12
leisurely kayak trip up the Wailua River. Large river boats take passengers to the Fern Grotto. The Kalihiwai River near Kilauea wanders through fertile low lands. It’s sandy mouth is located at the Kalihiwai Bay, just east of Princeville. Meandering through emerald green patches of Hanalei Valley, the Hanalei River is encircled by erosion carved, mist-capped mountains streaked with silver waterfalls. Kayak rental companies abound, particularly near the Wailua, Huleia and Hanalei Rivers. Call to reserve the equipment, some deliver the kayaks to the site or pick you up at your hotel. The Wailua River, because of it’s width, offers various water activities, such as kayak tours and rentals, water skiing, wakeboard, kneeboard, and stand-up-paddle boarding, all are great ways to beat the heat and get a little exercise. Kokee has several streams that provide a brisk dip in tannin flavored, clear mountain water. Kawaikoi Stream is a favorite, and is located on the Camp 10 Mohihi Road trail at Sugi Grove, Waipoo Falls is located along the hot and dry Cliff Trail and is situated in the perfect spot for cooling off before ascending the mountain to the loftiest elevations above Poomau Canyon. Those who hike along the Kalalau Trail on the Napali coast know the energizing value of 16 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
stream therapy on hot, achy muscles and feet. Fishing for bass and trout are popular sports for anglers. All fresh water game fishing requires a license, which can be obtained online at dlnr.ehawaii.gov or at most fishing tackle and supply shops and the Division of Aquatics Resources at the Department of Land and Natural Resources, 3060 Eiwa Street, room 306, Lihue (on the third floor of the State Building.) Fees vary. The Wailua River offers more than 50 miles of small mouth bass fishing. Other fresh water game fish in streams and reservoirs include large month bass, toucan (peacock bass) and trout. Several local guides will take you to reservoirs for some fine fishing and fishing sales. Fishing in Brackish water — for example near the mouth of the Waimea and Hanapepe Rivers — does not require a license. Fish that may be caught in the mixture of salt and fresh water include papio, mullet, and barracuda. Each year the DLNR stocks trout in Kokee Puu Lua Reservoir. The season begins on the first Saturday of August every year. license holders can fish every day for the first 16 days consecutively, then fish on weekends and state holidays until the of September. Take advantage of our rivers and streams. Whatever activity you choose, you’ll get a fresh, relaxed perspective of life. hawaiigateway.com
Kauai’s Hidden Wonders
ALL PHOTOS: KERRY ODA FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHY / KERRYODA.IFP3.COM
Kalalau Beach
Visitors to the Garden Isle naturally want to absorb as much of paradise as possible. Those who arrive on Kauai by jetliner get just a glimpse of the island’s breathtakingly gorgeous landscapes. However, to view the gushing
waterfalls
and
emerald
rainforest of the remote interior requires a smaller form of transportation that provides a closer perspective. A trip to the Garden Island is not complete without an airborne adventure.
K
auai is blessed with wild, untouched natural beauty unlike anywhere else on earth, much completely inaccessible except by air. Ninety percent of the island is not accessible by land vehicle, and 70 percent is inaccessible by foot. Flying tours provide panoramic views of the island’s visual treasures, among them, Manawaiopuna Falls, a location for Jurassic Park, the countless cascading falls of Waialeale Crater, and the famous Napali coast, with its verdant, razor-thin cliffs. A trip around the island by air helps visitors understand the geography and decide which sides of the island they want to explore further. From the air, a passenger observes that Kauai is a mini-continent with micro-climates ranging from desert on the West Side, to the primeval Alakai Swamp above the emerald Napali cliffs, to the Waimea “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” one of Kauai’s natural wonders. Helicopter tours are the most common method with most companies departing from Lihue (Central). Others depart from Hanapepe (West Side), , and Princeville (North Shore). Some helicopter tour companies provide noise-canceling headphones with music piped in and narration from the pilot. Flights from the Lihue Airport typically start out over Nawiliwili Harbor and the Menehune Fish Pond. According to legend, the pond was built overnight by the Menehune (little people) who inhabited Kauai before the Polynesians arrived. The helicopters then pass along Haupu Mountain Range, heading inland and westward over Hanapepe Valley, Olokele, and the dramatic Waimea Canyon. One company offers a special Jurassic Falls continued on page 20
18 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
hawaiigateway.com
continued from page 18
Landing Adventure at Manawaiopuna Falls, seen in the movie Jurassic Park. Depending on the time of day, the intensity of the sun, and the presence of clouds casting shadows, the variegated colors in the canyon’s layers range from fiery orange and rust red, to glowing copper and bronze, to pastel hues of taupe and terra cotta. The incredible remote valleys of the Napali coast come into view next. Knife-edge ridges separate the lush valleys where the Kalalau, Hanakoa, and Hanakapiai waterfalls plunge hundreds of feet into streams on their way to kissing the ocean. Sea caves and a hanging valley have been carved out of the coastline by the incessant, pounding surf. Leaving Napali, the chopper passes Mt. Makana, the peak portrayed as the island Bali Hai in the movie South Pacific. Below you can see Kee Beach at the end of the road on the North Shore and the beginning of the eleven-mile hiking trail to Kalalau Valley. Kee Beach is also the site of well-known beach scene between Rachel Ward and Richard Chamberlain from the television mini-series the Thorn Birds. The helicopter next soars over Hanalei Valley, the home of rainbows and patchwork quilts of taro fields, passing by more sparkling waterfalls on its way to the center of the island. In the center of Kauai, Mt. Waialeale -- known as “the wettest spot on earth” with over 400 inches of rain annually -- is also the location of Kawaikini Peak, 5,243 feet above sea level and the highest elevation on Kauai. From above, you can spot the “Blue Hole,” actually a pool, at the base of Mt. Waialeale, and the result of the convergence of two streams and a waterfall. Flights departing from Princeville soar over the Hanalei Valley, the Napali Coast, and Waimea Canyon. One helicopter company provides tours of the “forbidden” island of Niihau, a private island off the west shores of Kauai (and ancestral home of Hawaiian musician Israel “Iz” Kamakawiwo’ole, known for his medley of “Over the Rainbow” and “What a Wonderful World”). Helicopter tours are operated on a weather-permitting basis and reservations should be made in advance. Some companies will arrange custom tours or photo charters to specific sites. Partly cloudy skies with a little rain shouldn’t keep visitors from taking a flight. A veil of mist behind a pali (cliff) accentuates its razor-sharp edge and, as everyone knows, sun and showers are the ingredients for Kauai’s world-famous rainbows (and sometimes double rainbows). One of the main reasons visitors choose Kauai as their vacation destination is the island’s incomparable natural beauty. 20 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
Waialeale Crater
Tunnels Beach hawaiigateway.com
JOANIE STEINER, PB 808 639-7653 (SOLD)
DEVELOPER’S OPPORTUNITY
This is a real contractor’s opportunity and one not to be missed! Over two acres of land with R-10 zoning. There are three existing townhomes included in this purchase. They are each 1,286 sq. ft., beautifully appointed and the high ceilings are another plus ... don’t forget the attached two-car garages. Great Rentals! MLS 280920 Asking $3,249,000 (FS).
joanie4kauai@hawaiiantel.net
ISLAND PACIFIC PROPERTIES
FABULOUS PACIFIC OCEAN VIEWS:
This Poipu Property is situated up next to Poipu Crater and the views are spectacular … all the way to Ni‘ihau! 3BD/3BA with 2 separate living areas, 2 lanais, a pool and walking distance to the beach and the Grand Hyatt. This is Hawaiiana at its BEST on the sunny side of Kauai!!!! This home is in an active vacation rental program so it may be difficult to see. MLS 280923 Asking $2,300,000 (FS)
KOLOA ESTATES “Hale O‘io‘ina” “A resting place for travelers”
This beautiful custom 2,120 sf.ft. home has so much to offer … Ocean & mountain views, 3BD/3BA, ½ acre of land, rights to Kukui’ula. You’re within minutes of Poipu Beaches and Historic Old Koloa Town. If you’re looking for location and the best that Kauai has to offer, then you may have just found your home. MLS 280925 Asking $1,549,000 (FS).
COMING SOON IN KALAHEO
A ONCE IN ALIFETIME OPPORTUNITY
Omine Island Estate is in the heart of Koloa and is within minutes to Poipu Beaches and Historic Old Koloa Town. Situated on over five acres of land and allows for two residences (Buyer to confirm with County). This is the perfect retreat with gentle stream and swimming hole! MLS 281767 Asking $699,000 (FS)
A Kalaheo Stunner!! First time on the market at the end of a cul-de-sac, this Kalaheo home will be a must see with a large lot of 10,380 sq. ft. with 3BD/3BA and 2,372 sq. ft. of living. The attention to detail and pride of ownership shows throughout. Will be asking $908,000 (FS)
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Email: f.leemorey@gmail.com Office: (808) 332-7477 www.turtlecovrealtykauai.com License #15886
MLS 270051 • HOME & 3.94 ACRES NEAR POIPU
Breathtaking ocean, mountain and nature views from this 4BD/3BA, pool and pool house custom built home. Separate media room and office. Pool house offers bath, outside shower, wet bar. Pool is solar heated with ocean views. All this is situated on 3.94 acres of lush green land. The home features soaring ceilings, crown moldings with tile and hardwood floors. Relax into the Hawaiian lifestyle in this one of a kind secluded yet convenient to Poipu property. Co-listed with Christina Appleby 635-8181.
MLS 266513 • LAND: 2.25 ACRES
Stunning ocean views in this spacious 3BD/2BA exotic home. Home features an open living and entertaining area with hardwood floors, granite countertops, imported doors and design accents, lava rock shower and whirlpool spa tub. Over 1,000 sq ft of deck space and lots of room to grow. Beautifully landscaped level lot for pool or fruit trees. Architectural drawings available for expansion of living space.
$1,585,000
$2,495,000
OWN A VILLAGE IN KEKAHA “HALE NUI NUI”
$1,695,000 Spacious 3BD/2.5BA, formal dining, family room, approx. 2,000 sq ft interior living and 1,500 sq ft exterior living of wrap around porches that grace this masonry home with expansive ocean views, 800 sq ft guest quarters and garage on over an acre of land in front of the blue Pacific Ocean. Fantastic price. Four additional redwood homes on an additional 1/2 acre with prices ranging from $327,000 to $439,000. 3 homes have 3BD/1BA and the forth, 2 loft bedrooms with 2 baths and 2 living areas. Properties may be sold individually or entire village may purchased for $3,200,000.
MLS 281988 • NEW HOME CORNER OF KAWAIHAU & WILI RD.
Great level corner lot with new 2 story home. Small lot 2,468 sq. ft. but not a CPR and room for a garden and pets. 1,000 sq. ft of interior space with 200 sq. ft. carport. 2 bedrooms, family room, living room and open kitchen with 1 and 1/2 baths. Mountain views and a great location, convenient to beaches, shopping and dining. Come and take a look. $395,000
$395,000
MLS 278098 • COMMERCIAL LANDMARK PROPERTY
Imagine the possibilities of a commercial property with 100 ft of Hanapepe River frontage. Paddle from your yard to the ocean. Unique eye catching building has three floors with separate entrances on each floor. Designed and built by a renowned artist, Tom Teitge. His on site art is priceless. Perfect opportunity for a residential/business combination. This commercial property has striking visibility yet island ambiance. All this plus rare city sewer that would allow a restaurant.
$450,000
KAUAI The Garden Island
Kauai Nui Kuapapa
(Kauai of great genealogies) is a cultural and historical project developed by Na Hoku Welo LLC in conjunction with the Office of the Mayor of the County of Kauai. The project identifies Kauai’s five moku (major districts expanding from Kauai’s highest mountain, Waialeale, to the sea), with Ni‘ihau as the sixth moku of the County, and with Kauai Island’s estimated fifty-four ahupua‘a (subdivision within a moku).
Created by H&S Publishing with Moku information from “Kauai Nui Kuapapa”. Copyright © 2015 H&S Publishing LLC • 4330 Kauai Beach Dr #G21 • Lihue, HI 96766
26 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
www.kauainuikuapapa.com
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KAUAI STORIES
A Son’s Courage Mother is still in awe over her son’s quick thinking. by Pamela Varma Brown, the publisher of “Kauai Stories,” a collection humorous, touching and inspiring personal stories told by Kauai people, and the forthcoming “Kauai Stories 2. www.kauaistories.net
28 • Kauai Magazine • April / May / June 2015
PHOTO COURTESY THE GARVEY FAMILY
W
The Garvey family on Kauai days before Kevin’s near-drowning incident. From left, Su Choe-Garvey; Torrey, 8; Kevin; Taylor, 16. “I hear, ‘Dad, hold on I’m coming!’ I thought, ‘Where did you come from?’ ” Kevin says. Taylor had with him a Rescue Tube, a four-foot long floatation device that is installed on many Kauai beaches for just such emergencies. “My dad was face down in the water with his snorkel and mask on,” Taylor says. “As I got to him he kept groaning and yelling ‘Oh, God!’ I told him to grab onto the Rescue Tube and float on his back.” Taylor held his father’s head up as waves came, so Kevin wouldn’t swallow any more water. As they floated, the current kept pushing them, but now it was pushing them toward shore – and toward the reef. “I turned around to see a tall wave coming right for us. I screamed to my dad to hold his breath. The wave smashed us onto the reef,” Taylor says. The wave ripped Kevin’s mask and snorkel off his face, and he lost his hold on the Rescue Tube. Just when they thought they were okay, they were smashed on the reef again by another powerful wave. “I knew this was not good for anyone’s health,” Taylor says. “I tried to pick up my dad around his waist, but he couldn’t walk. Finally, I told my dad to lie down and grab onto the tube. I walked on the reef and pulled him back to the shore.” After spending a couple days in the hospital to make sure he didn’t drown from all the water in his lungs – something that doctors told him occasionally happens – Kevin was released and the family flew home to California. Su, Taylor’s mother and Kevin’s wife, is
PHOTOS BY PAMELA VARMA BROWN
hen 16-year-old Taylor Garvey visited Kauai last year with his parents and younger brother, the last thing he expected was that he would rescue his father from drowning at one of Kauai’s beaches. Fortunately, Taylor knew exactly what to do when he realized his father was in trouble. By a stroke of luck – or was it fate? – Taylor had watched the water safety video playing in the baggage claim area of Lihue Airport. “I just watched it because it was there,” Taylor says. “I never thought in a million years that it would happen. I don’t think anybody ever thinks that it’s going to happen to them.” The family’s harrowing day took place at Larsen’s Beach, a beautiful, secluded, unlifeguarded beach on Kauai’s North Shore. “We saw a sign at the beginning of the trailhead that said: ‘Dangerous Swimming Conditions. 13 Drowning Deaths.’ But we didn’t really plan on doing a lot of swimming or snorkeling, so we thought this will be fine.” Kevin says. After walking the length of the beach to get a sense of where it was safe to swim, Kevin went in the water, wearing his mask, snorkel and fins. There was only one other snorkeler in the water. Where he was swimming, the water was only three feet above the reef. When that started to feel a bit claustrophobic, he began to swim out a little deeper. Suddenly a rush of current swept him out beyond the reef, into the open ocean. He tried to swim back in but the current was much too strong. “I’ve been in rip tides before but I’ve never felt anything like that,” Kevin says. “It was so strong that I would try to gain 15 feet then lose 20, gain 15 and lose 20 again.” After struggling for about 15 or 20 minutes, Kevin was exhausted. He was also having a hard time getting enough air through his snorkel. He took off his mask and snorkel to breath more easily, but in the choppy ocean, he began swallowing water. With fatigue setting in and realizing he couldn’t do this much longer, Kevin began calling for help. Then a powerful wave pushed him down and ripped off his swim fins. “I thought, ‘This is where I’m going to die. I’m going to die on Kauai. I don’t really think I can get out of this,’ ” he recalls. Just then he heard a sound: his son Taylor’s voice.
Rescue Tubes are located at many of Kauai’s un-lifeguarded beaches. Each Rescue Tube costs about $100; support Rescue Tubes at www. rescuetubefoundation.org still in awe over her son’s quick thinking that day and has shared their family’s story with relatives and friends. “My son is pretty low key about it,” Su says. “He hardly told anyone about it.” “My mom did the work and told basically everybody,” Taylor says, laughing. The Garveys are tremendously grateful for Taylor’s courage and his presence of mind, and that they are still a family. They look forward to supporting the Rescue Tube Foundation, and also returning to Kauai. Watch the video Taylor saw at: www. kauaiwatersafety.com. hawaiigateway.com