Future Fit Home Energy Plan
Introduction
Nottingham Energy Partnership’s Home Energy Advice Team Hub provides in-person advice and guidance to residents across Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire with the aim of helping to improve the energy performance of homes which are categorised as hard-to-treat i.e., not connected to the gas network, or with an EPC rated D-G or in a Conservation area. Whether you are looking for advice on how to improve your home or need help implementing upgrades, we hope your Future Fit Home Energy Plan will prove useful.
Your Future-Fit Plan
This document lays out a step-by-step plan to improve the energy efficiency of your home. It identifies appropriate measures to reduce your home’s energy use and environmental impact, whilst improving your comfort and lowering your energy bills.
The suggested measures are grouped in phases to maximise effectiveness and minimise costs. We have taken a ‘whole house approach’ based around you and your priorities that illustrates the ideal order, reducing disruption and enabling future work to be carried out successfully.
This plan has been developed based on the future-fit home assessment; information provided by a Retrofit Survey, yourself and publicly available data, such as EPC data and historic maps. Cost estimates and energy and carbon savings are calculated using industry approved calculation and modelling techniques.
The Future-Fit Process
We gather preliminary information about your home by speaking to you and carrying out desktop research.
One of our expert team visits your home to carry out a full assessment of the building.
The information we gather is used to evaluate the available options and assess which are best for you and your home.
We create a bespoke plan for your household, including estimates of energy and bill savings.
Your plan includes basic details and specifications to communicate key information to contractors and installers. The team can support you in putting this plan into action.
We also offer seminars and workshops on different aspects of energy efficiency and renewable systems. You are welcome to join. https:// www.homeenergyadviceteamhub.uk/ workshops
Your Home Now
Key priorities:
1. To make my house more comfortable and healthier.
2. To reduce my carbon footprint.
3. To increase the resale value of my home.
Your Property:
This is a traditional semi-detached house estimated to have been built between 1900-1929 and located within the Broxtowe conservation area. It is surrounded by similar houses, each with their own distinctive features.
This particular property is of a solid brick construction with bay windows and decorative brickwork at the front. It also has a suspended timber ground floor and pitched roof with access to a converted loft. Insulation is lacking in the fabric elements of the house.
Additionally, there are two extensions attached to the rear end of the property - one which is a single storey and the other a double storey. Both are estimated to have been built around the same period as the main house and, characterised with solid brick walls, pitched roofs with sloping ceilings and solid ground floors. There is no insulation in these constructions.
The house has six rooms in total, spread out across three storeys - heated by a combi-condensing boiler, emitted via radiators and controlled by a programmer, room thermostat and TRVs. Ventilation is by means of 1) opening windows and doors, 2) intermittent extractor fans in the bathrooms, 3) trickle vents in the dining room and bedrooms as well as 4) a hob extractor fan in the kitchen. All windows are made of double glazing units. Some of the light bulbs are low energy LEDs.
Your Household:
While the house is occupied by two residents, an average number of occupants for this house type would be three people based on its floor area. Therefore the actual bill costs and fuel consumption are likely to be lower than those modelled.
Your Home Now
Energy Use:
The chart below gives a breakdown of the main ways that energy is used and lost in your home. It shows that most energy is lost through the walls of the building, gaps in the fabric, as well as the floors. The figures to the right are a few ways of showing the energy use and environmental impact of your home.
52 E
(out of 100 - higher is better, average is 59)
CO2 emissions
5.53 tonnes
(CO2e tonnes/year, average is 3.9)
Estimated annual energy use
25,764 kWh
(based on average occupancy)
Estimated fuel bills
£1,795
(based on average tariff and occupancy)
Estimated EPC score D
(A-G, A is best, average is D)
Your Home Now
Condition:
Externally, the property is in good condition with no major issues requiring attention. The brickwork shows no signs of cracks or erosion. There is however some spalling to end bricks on the rear facade and on the chimney. The roof appears structurally sound with no signs of dipping, sagging, slipped or cracked tiles. Internally, the house is well maintained. Apart from a few cracks in the ceiling hall and on the walls of a single bedroom, no structural issues were identified from the survey. The only concerns observed were small areas of condensation and damp in one of the bedrooms and the kitchen, respectively.
Airtightness & Ventilation:
An airtightness test of the property was not carried out, therefore an assumption has been made based on an average for this house type. However, the damp and condensation revealed by the assessment indicate inadequate ventilation levels. As there were little to no moisture issues revealed by the assessment, it can be deduced that the current ventilation system is sufficient for air circulation. It is also evident from your estimated home energy usage that there are some gaps in the building fabric. These are resulting into increased heat loss and inefficiencies so will need to be addressed through proper retrofitting.
Assumptions:
As far as possible, the information here is based upon the home assessment that we carried out. Where it was not possible to determine exact characteristics, we have made assumptions based on the age and type of the property.
We have based energy costs and consumption upon the house itself rather than on your own energy use. This is so that the plan remains valid if there are any changes in the occupancy of your home, changes in your energy tariff etc.
The cost of all measures is estimated, based on the assumptions we have made about the building and quotes that we have received recently for similar work. They are not quotations. Should you wish to go ahead with any of the measures suggested, you should get a minimum of three quotes from accredited tradespeople.
Illustrations
The drawings in this document illustrate general principles are not to scale or specific to your property. They are not intended to be used directly for purposes of construction. Works to older buildings inevitably involve some level of risk, and require tailored solutions. It is important to consult a specialist before undertaking any work, to prevent damage to your home.
Improvement Options
A range of possible energy improvement options has been chosen based on your future-fit home assessment. These measures have been modelled to estimate the effect that they would have on your energy use, carbon emissions, and energy bills.
The installation cost of each measure has also been estimated, however this can only give an indication of possible costs, and may vary significantly depending on a wide range of factors.
There may be grants and / or finance options available to help with the cost of energy efficiency measures - therefore before proceeding with any measures it is worth finding out what is available by calling Nottingham Energy Partnership on 0115 985 3000.
The Whole House Approach:
It is very important to consider home improvements from a ‘Whole House’ perspective, as different measures will interact with one another. The order in which measures are installed is particularly important:
Insulation: The cheapest energy is the energy you don’t use. Reducing the amount of heat lost by a building will reduce how much energy is needed to heat it. It also allows any new heating systems to be sized according to the amount of heat needed to keep the improved building warm.
Heating and Ventilation System: After reducing the building’s heat demand, a new heating system can be installed to maximise energy efficiency. Properly sizing the system will make it cheaper to install and more efficient to run. Low-carbon options like heat pumps, which provide heat at lower temperatures, also work best in well-insulated homes. Additionally, upgrading the ventilation system is crucial after insulation is done. This will ensure adequate air quality is maintained, moisture-related issues are prevented and, that the home remains energy-efficient and comfortable.
Renewable Technologies Generating your own energy from renewable sources, such as installing solar PV panels, will help to reduce the carbon emissions from the energy that you use. On average the investment on PVs is usually paid back within 10 years and the embodied energy likewise. Good quality PVs are guaranteed for 20 years and will keep saving energy for at least 30 years.
Recommended Measures
The following measures, as explained below, would be beneficial in reducing your carbon emissions and energy bills, as well as improving the health and comfort of the occupants. They have also been simulated to assess the possible improvement to your home.
» Energy Efficient Lighting
» Insulate Timber Door
» Room-in-roof Insulation
» Solid Wall Insulation
» Suspended Floor Insulation
» Continuous Ventilation
» Air Source Heat Pump
» Solar Panels
An in-depth description of all of the recommended measures can be found in the following pages.
Energy Efficient Lighting: Upgrade to low energy bulbs to reduce your electricity consumption.
Insulate Timber Door: Consider insulating the existing door and adding draught-proofing strips around the edges. This will significantly reduce heat loss from this area of the house.
Room-in-roof Insulation: To enhance the effectiveness of your room in roof, further insulate within the stud walls and the sloping ceiling.
Solid Wall Insulation: For solid walls, both internal and external insulation are effective. Internal insulation is typically cheaper but it may cause more disruption. If full external insulation isn’t feasible, a combination of external insulation on the front and internal insulation at the rear can offer a good compromise.
Suspended Floor Insulation: Floor insulation is a highly disruptive measure, as it requires access to the entire ground floor area. Where possible, opt for a solid floor with insulation, as it is easier to implement than suspended floor insulation.
Ventilation and Airtightness: Note that you will need to upgrade to a continuous mechanical ventilation system once insulation and airtightness levels have been improved. This will mitigate the risk of any moisture issues and maintain adequate indoor air quality particularly in the colder months. Additionally, to prevent air leakage, ensure that all gaps and elements such as those around windows and door frames, pipework and floorboard edges are sealed and properly draughtproofed.
Air Source Heat Pump: For optimum performance, we advise installing it following insulation works. The efficiency of a heat pump is up to three times more efficient than a gas boiler. As an immediate and affordable solution to improving the performance of your combi boiler, start by reducing the flow temperature to optimise its efficiency, cut your fuel bills and carbon emissions.
Solar Panels: Consider solar panels on the North East facing roof to further reduce your energy bills and carbon footprint. An 8 panel array would be appropriate in meeting these demands.
Your Future-Fit Home
Energy Use:
The chart below gives a rough comparison of how the energy usage of your home could change following completion of all the aforementioned measures. The figures to the right show how making these changes could effect your home’s annual energy use and CO2 emissions. We have estimated a figure for the fuel bills according to current prices. Note that these tend to fluctuate every 3 months so they are likely to vary according to season and period depending on price caps set by Ofgem.
Environmental
Impact
Rating (EIR)
72 C
(Improved from 52 E)
CO2 emissions
1.94 tonnes (CO2e tonnes/year. Down from 5.53, average is 3.9)
Estimated annual energy use
7,066 kWh
(Down from 25,764 kWh, based on average occupancy)
Estimated fuel bills
£1,720 (Down from £1,795)
Payback Period
There are many benefits to installing energy efficiency measures in your home, including reducing your carbon emissions, energy use, and bills.
While saving energy can significantly lower your carbon emissions and energy bills, the initial cost of energy-saving measures can often be high. In many cases, it will take a long time for the savings to cover these initial costs. The graph to the left illustrates how long it would take for you to see a return on your investment if you install some of the previously explained measures. It analyses the payback period of each measure - which is one way to evaluate these improvement options. By calculating the time it takes for the savings from an improvement to cover its cost, you can prioritise the most cost-effective upgrades first.
Evidently, internal wall insulation has a shorter payback period than external wall insulation. Solid floor insulation has a significantly longer payback period in comparison to other energy efficiency measures because of the amount of work and disruption involved. Therefore, it is recommended when planning major renovations, such as replacing the floor or installing underfloor heating.
Nevertheless, other benefits in terms of improving comfort, health, and well-being are often immediate and are well worth considering when weighing up the costs of improving your home. When evaluating your options, you will also need to consider what your priorities are—whether you aim to save carbon, struggle to keep warm, or find your energy bills overwhelming. Different priorities may lead you to prioritize different measures, ensuring the best fit for your specific needs.
Medium Term Plan Summary
Phase Recommended Measure
Phase 1
• Boiler optimisation
• Energy Efficient Lighting
• Room-in-roof Insulation
Phase 2
Phase 3
• External Wall Insulation
• Insulate Timber Doors
• Continuous Ventilation
• Internal Wall Insulation
• Suspended Floor Insulation
Phase 4
• Solar Photovoltaic Array
• Air Source Heat Pump
• Insulate Accessible Pipework
This structured approach ensures that each phase builds on the previous one, avoiding inefficiencies and unnecessary costs. Detailed descriptions and guidelines for each phase can be found in Appendix B.
The medium-term plan provides a flexible yet structured roadmap for improving your home’s energy efficiency over 15-20 years. It follows the whole-house approach, ensuring that each step complements the overall building performance. While it prioritises cost-effective and urgent measures, the plan allows for adjustments as new opportunities arise, such as home improvements or available grants. This flexibility enables you to adapt the plan without compromising its long-term goals.
The phased strategy is designed to optimise energy savings by addressing key areas of your home in a logical order. Phase 1 focuses on quick wins, such as boiler optimisation, installing energy efficient lighting and room in roof insulation. These measures will reduce immediate heat loss and improve comfort before moving on to more extensive upgrades.
Phase 2 targets the installation of wall insulation and continuous ventilation, which are essential for ensuring thermal efficiency and proper air circulation. By addressing external walls early, you set a solid foundation for later improvements. Internal wall insulation and floor insulation, planned for Phase 3, can be considered after the external envelope has been secured or when doing internal home inprovements.
Finally, Phase 4 includes renewable energy installations, like a solar photovoltaic array and an air source heat pump, which will help generate clean energy and reduce reliance on traditional heating. However, it is recommended to implement these only after insulation measures are complete, as installing new systems prematurely could reduce their effectiveness.
Appendix A Your Recommended Measures Explained
Internal Wall Insulation Cost
What it is: Internal wall insulation (IWI) is insulation installed on the inside of your walls. The most effective way to reduce heat loss in homes with solid walls is to insulate on the outside of the walls. However, there are many reasons that this may not be appropriate for your home, in which case IWI may be a good alternative.
How to do it well: Installing IWI can be an incremental process - it is often most cost effective and least disruptive when re-decorating a room, or installing a new kitchen or bathroom. With IWI in particular, it is crucial to make sure that you choose the right materials for your property to prevent moisture building up in the walls. It is also important to make sure that the insulation is ‘airtight’ by sealing it all the joints and edges.
© Simon Revill, for Historic England
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• What is the current internal wall finish?
• Are there any internal features (e.g. decorative cornices) which need to be preserved?
• Does any plumbing / wiring need to be re-routed?
• Is there any sign of damp or mould?
External Wall Insulation (solid wall)
What it is: External solid wall insulation (EWI) is the most effective way to insulate solid walls (i.e. walls without a cavity), and can be carried out without too much disruption to those living in the house. It will change the way that your house looks from the outside, so will likely need planning permission and careful consideration, particularly if you live in an older property or in a conservation area.
How to do it well: Solid brick and stone walls allow some moisture to pass in and out. Adding certain (vapour impermeable) materials to the walls can stop this from happening, potentially trapping moisture in the walls. It is therefore best to use insulation materials and finishes which also allow some moisture to pass through. Windows and doors will either need to be relocated outwards to be in-line with the insulation or the insulation returned into the reveals and up against the frames to prevent thermal bridging. The eaves may also need to be extended to accommodate the insulation.
© Simon Revill, for Historic England
Cost
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• Are the eaves deep enough to protect the insulation?
• Will the windows need to be relocated?
• Are there any access issues or potential space limitations (e.g. street frontage, narrow alleys)
• Will the insulation change the appearance of the property?
Sloping Ceiling Insulation Cost
What it is: Sloping ceiling insulation is insulation installed at rafter level - i.e. the angled beams supporting the roof. This is usually the best option for homes with a room in the roof space, such as a converted attic.
How to do it well: It is good to insulate roofs from outside if possible - for example when the roof is being replaced. If this is not an option, insulation can be carried out from inside the property.
It is important to consider which materials are used, and how the roof will be ventilated, to prevent the structural timbers from rotting. The insulation must be fitted tightly to be effective, and should be installed both between and below the rafters where possible to minimise cold bridges.
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• How will the roof timbers be ventilated?
• Is the roof due to be replaced in the near future?
• Is there an existing vapour barrier (e.g. roofing felt)?
• How will the insulation meet adjoining wall or loft insulation?
© Simon Revill, for Historic England
Stud Wall Insulation (RIR)
What it is: In a Room In Roof (RIR) insulation should be installed on the sloped, flat and vertical elements. The vertical elements are usually stud walls that box off the lower edges of the roof space. Insulation can be added between and over the stud work.
How to do it well: Hatches may need to be installed in the walls to get access behind them. Breathable insulation battens can then be installed between the stud-work with rigid insulation on top, fixed to the stud work. The wall insulation should butt up against any horizontal insulation laid at rafter level and sloped ceiling insulation. The insulation should form an unbroken line around the perimeter of the loft space.
Cost
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• Is the back of the stud-work accessible?
• Does insulation also need to be added to other elements of the Room in Roof?
Suspended Floor Insulation
What it is: Suspended floor insulation is installed below a timber floor, either between the joists (the beams which hold up the floor), below them, or both.
How to do it well: If there is no access from below the floor the existing floor boards will need to be temporarily removed to allow insulation to be installed. The insulation can then be installed relatively easily as long as the floor joists are in good condition and show no signs of damp or rot.
From above the floor, insulation rolls or batts can be fitted between the floor joists, and held in place with a netting or breather membrane. It is very important not to block air vents or ventilation bricks below the floor level, as these are needed to ventilate the space below the floor and to prevent joists from rotting.
Cost
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• Can the floor be accessed from below?
• Are the floor boards in good condition?
• Are the floor joists in good condition?
• How is the sub-floor space ventilated?
© Simon Revill, for Historic England
Solid Floor Insulation
What it is: Solid floors in older buildings - usually made of concrete, brick or stone - ideally should be insulated using vapour permeable insulation materials to prevent moisture from being trapped in the floor or pushed to the walls where it may rise, causing damp issues.
How to do it well: Though disruptive it is necessary to dig out the existing floor of the building, taking care not to damage the existing footings. Once dug out, a layer of insulating expanded clay or glass aggregate can be installed on top of a breathable root barrier, and levelled out. On top of this a limecrete floor slab is poured, followed by a lime screed, on top of which a permeable floor finish can be fitted. Underfloor heating can also be installed in the screed layer.
Cost
Disruption
Effectiveness
© Simon Revill, for Historic England
Key Considerations
• Is the floor solid or suspended?
• Is there damp in the existing floor or walls?
• Can underfloor heating be installed alongside the insulation?
Insulate Timber Doors
What it is: Retaining and insulating the original timber doors keeps the appearance of the house and will have a lower embodied carbon impact than replacing them with uPVC while preventing draughts and excessive heat loss.
How to do it well: Various measures can be taken to draught proof and insulate a timber door. These include; replacing single glazing panels with double glazed panels; replacing the single glazed transom window (window above the door) with a double glazed panel; adding insulated panels to the recessed door panels; draught proofing the letter box; draught proofing strips around the top and sides of the door; a threshold seal at the bottom of the door.
Disruption
Key Considerations
• Is the door and timber frames are in good condition with no signs of rot?
• Does the door open and close correctly?
• Is the glazing of historic value (stained glass etc.)?
Insulate Pipework
What it is: Heat is lost from the water travelling through your central heating pipework, heating spaces which don’t need to be warm, and causing the boiler to work harder to heat all the rooms. Insulating the pipework can reduce these losses and therefore improve the heating system efficiency.
How to do it well: Whilst it is most important to insulate the hot water pipework exiting the boiler or hot water cylinder, it is also useful to insulate return pipes, and even cold water pipes to prevent condensation. Exposed pipework can be ‘lagged’ with flexible pipe insulation - ideally foil faced and of the correct diameter - and boxed in to protect it from damaged. Floor boards can be raised to provide access to insulate pipework running under the floor.
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• How can the pipes be accessed?
• Is there enough space around the pipes for insulation?
• How will the insulation be maintained and protected?
Boiler Optimisation
What it is: Gas boilers operate more efficiently when heating water to a lower temperature. The temperature at which water is supplied by the boiler to the heating system is known as the ‘flow temperature’, and often this is left at the maximum setting when the boiler is installed. Turning this down can make a big difference to how much energy you use to heat your home.
How to do it well: If you have a ‘combi’ or ‘condensing-combi’ boiler, there will be a setting on the boiler itself to allow you to change the flow temperature. Often there will be two dials on your boiler - the one with a radiator symbol next to it controls your heating. Sometimes there will be a digital display and buttons instead. Turning this temperature down to around 55°C (or about half way on a dial without numbers) is a good start - you can then adjust it up or down depending on whether the house is still getting to a comfortable temperature. You may need to turn it up in very cold weather, but leave it at a lower temperature when the weather is milder.
Alternatively you can install a ‘weather compensator’ to automatically change the flow temperature depending on the weather.
Cost
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• Does your home struggle to get warm even when the heating is on?
• Does your home heat up and cool down very quickly?
• Do you know how to change the settings on your boiler? Do you have the instructions? Check out this video for guidance: https:// www.nottenergy.com/projects/ past-projects
Air Source Heat Pump (ASHP)
What it is: Air source heat pumps are a lower-carbon source of heating for your home. They are highly efficient, and do not rely on fossil fuels. As gas heating is being phased out in the UK, air source heat pumps are likely to be one of the main means by which homes will be heated in the future.
How to do it well: As heat pumps are best suited to low temperature heating systems (where the heating fluid is heated to a lower temperature than it would be by a traditional boiler) it is important to keep the heat inside the building. Therefore the home must be well insulated and airtight for the system to work effectively.
Low temperature heating systems also require heat to be emitted from a larger area, so are well suited to underfloor heating or large radiators. If an ASHP is supplying hot water as well as space heating, a hot water cylinder is also required. Cost
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• Is the home well insulated and airtight?
• Where can the outdoor unit be placed?
• Is there space in the home for a hot water cylinder?
• Are the heating emitters adequately sized?
Solar Photovoltaic (PV)
What it is: Solar Photovoltaic (PV) panels, can convert energy from the sun into electricity by means of PV cells. Most domestic PV systems are installed on roofs, so if your roof is suitable you can generate your own electricity to use in your home.
How to do it well: Solar PV panels will produce most energy if facing south, however east and west facing arrays can be effective depending on what time of day you use the most energy. The roof space should be clear and not overshadowed - e.g. by trees, chimneys or neighbouring properties - and large enough to fit a minimum of 5-6 panels. The ‘array’ of panels form part of a system which includes an inverter to convert the direct current (DC) electricity generated by the panels into mains alternating current (AC) which can be used in your home. There needs to be space to install the inverter on a wall, preferably close to your fuse box.
PV’s generate electricity in the daytime so appliances should be run then to make the most of the electricity. Excess electricity generated goes back into the mains grid, and is paid for at a lower rate by your electricity company. Batteries can be added to the system so that generated electricity can be used at home at different times of day.
Cost
Disruption
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• Which way do the roofs face?
• Is any work being carried out on the roof in the near future?
• What is the roof covering?
• How much clear space is there on the roof?
• Where could an inverter go?
Solar Photovoltaic (PV)
Sizing: We estimate that a solar photovoltaic array of 8 panels with 3.4kWp could be fitted on the North East facing roof. With 425W panels this could generate up to 2,229 kWh per year.
The image to the right shows how the panels could be laid out on your roof. We estimate that you will use 802.44 kWh of this directly in your house annually with the remaining electricity generated being exported to the grid.
This size system would be appropriate for both current and future use even with an increase in demand (for instance with the addition of an air source heat pump or electric car), given the current UK average use of electricity in a home is 3200kWh per year.
To limit the amount of electricity that is exported back to the grid however, you could also invest in a battery to store excess electricity as the rate for feeding power back to the grid is usually lower than the current price cap rate.
Small Lifestyle Changes
What it is: Small lifestyle changes can be more effective than you might think and can save a surprising amount of energy and money!
Disruption
1. Turn down the heating by 1°C: If you are currently heating your home to 21°C, reducing the temperature to 20°C would save you 10% on your heating bill. If you have a combi boiler - turning down your flow temperature could save you an average of £112 off your annual bill! If you feel that your home feels much colder, you can always switch the temperature back to what it was before.
2. Cut down on your tumble dryer use: Tumble drying can cost around £1 for each cycle, by reducing how often you use it, you could make worthwhile savings on your overall energy bill. Try hanging your clothes on a washing line in the midday sun or on a clothes horse. Avoid hanging clothes on radiators – no matter how tempting it is – it can hinder air circulation which means it will take longer for the radiators to heat your home and can cause condensation issues. If you are drying clothes inside, make sure that you are keeping the room very well ventilated as this can cause damp, condensation and poor air quality inside which can be bad for your health.
3. Turn your appliances to eco or standby… or switch them off at the wall: When you’re not using your TV, especially when you’re out and about, it is worth switching it to standby or turning it off at the wall. It’s a little change across each day that can make a big difference.
4. Open your curtains to the sun and close them at dusk: During winter, there is lots of talk of drawing the curtains to keep your heat in and to shut the cold out. But it is worth making the most of the winter sun in the day (where possible!) Opening your curtains when it is bright outside will act to draw that valuable heat inside. Drawing your curtains as it turns to dusk then acts to lock that heat inside. Do this on your south, east and westerly facing windows. We would recommend keeping your north facing windows shut in winter as these windows will not get any direct sunlight.
Effectiveness
Key Considerations
• Can you feel a draught?
• What temperature is your heating on?
• Can you dry your clothes outside?
• Can you turn off appliances at the wall you are not using them?
Small Lifestyle Changes
5. Track where those draughts are coming from: If you feel a draught coming in, it’s worth detecting where it is coming from. Draught excluders placed along windows and doorways can help to stop your heat escaping from gaps between doors and windows.
6. Fill up your kettle with the right amount of water: Filling the kettle with the right amount of water means that you are only heating water you are using! You could also make a flask of water in the morning and then use the hot water throughout the day.
7. Put on more layers: Layering up your clothes can help trap your body heat helping you keep warm and comfortable without having to heat the whole room.
8. Turn your radiators down using the thermostatic valves: If there are rooms that you use less regularly – you can try turning down the radiator valve to a lower setting to save energy. The valve contains a sensor so that when that temperature is reached, the sensor expands, preventing an excess of hot water from flowing into the radiator. Top tip - do not turn these down lower than 16°C to prevent condensation and mould growth.
9. Check the temperature of your fridge and freezer: Your fridge and freezer run all the time, so they eat up a lot of energy. Your fridge shouldn’t be at a lower temperature than 5°C and your freezer shouldn’t be lower than -18 °C. When the temperature of your fridge and freezer dips too low, it will run less efficiently and use more energy. It is also worth regularly defrosting your freezer as this could significantly reduce your electricity bill.
Key Considerations
• How much water are you using?
• What temperature are your fridge and freezer at?
• Are you wearing enough layers?
• When are you using your Solar PV energy?
Appendix B Detailed Medium Term Plan
Phase 1
Measure Process When to do it
Boiler optimisation:
Energy efficient lighting:
1. Turn the boilers heating output temperature down to 55°C or about half way if a dial.
2. Adjust if you find the space too cold or hot.
• Before the heating season.
Room-in-roof insulation:
1. Replace existing bulbs with low energy LED bulbs.
• Whenever existing bulbs die.
• As soon as possible.
1. Insulate between rafters using vapour permeable flexible insulation, and below rafters using a vapour permeable rigid board insulation. Seal for airtightness.
2. Re-plaster and finish ceiling breathable paint.
3. Make access behind stud wall (e.g. via a hatch) and install flexible insulation between studs.
• When redecorating the room
• When carrying out any other insulation works e.g. loft insulation or internal wall insulation
• When converting or making access to space in the roof
Phase 2
Measure Process When to do it
External Wall
Insulation:
Insulate Timber Door:
1. Extend eaves so that they will overhang the new insulation.
2. Remove any render from the brickwork.
3. Install a starter track above the DPC level and moisture resistant insulation boards below it and down into the ground.
4. Fix the rigid insulation boards, preferably breathable such as wood fibre, to the brickwork with mechanical fixings carefully butted up to each other.
5. Apply a breathable lime render to the insulation.
1. Replace single glazing panels in door and transom with double glazed panels.
2. Add Aerogel insulation to recessed panels in door.
3. Fix draught strips around the edges of the door and a threshold seal at the bottom.
4. Add a draught excluder to the letter box.
Continuous Ventilation:
1. Install continuous low energy extractor fans in bathrooms and cooker hood in kitchen with extraction to outside.
2. Add trickle vents to windows in all living areas (living rooms and bedrooms).
3. Ensure that all doors have sufficient undercuts to allow air to move through the house (i.e. a space of at least 5mm between the bottom of the door and the floor finish).
• When any works to the roof are being completed.
• When windows are being replaced.
• When making repairs to outside walls.
• When the door is being repainted.
• When insulation measures (e.g. internal wall insulation) are being completed.
• If there is any sign of damp or mould.
• When measures are installed which will make your home more airtight e.g. insulation, draught-proofing.
• When making changes to a kitchen or bathroom or installing new windows.
Phase 3
Measure
Internal Wall
Insulation:
Process When to do it
1. Remove any gypsum plasterboard or impermeable finishes (e.g. vinyl wallpaper) and apply a lime plaster parge coat if required
2. Install vapour permeable rigid internal wall insulation, ensuring continuity of the insulation and airtightness.
3. Plaster over with lime-based plaster. Avoid using non-breathable surface finishes, such as acrylic / oil based paints.
Suspended Floor
Insulation:
1. Make access below the floor.
2. Assess the condition of the floor joists, and establish whether sufficient cross ventilation may be maintained if the floor is insulated.
3. Install flexible, vapour permeable insulation batts between the floor joists (below floorboards) and add rigid boards below, attached to the underside of the joists.
• When re-decorating a room
• When replacing a kitchen or bathroom
• When replacing radiators, windows, plasterwork etc.
• When access is possible below the suspended floor.
• When other insulation measures (e.g. external wall insulation) are being completed.
• When replacing floorboards or floor coverings.
Phase 4
Measure Process When to do it
Solar Photovoltaic array:
1. Contact MCS accredited solar PV installers for quotations
2. Confirm the amount of solar PV panels that can fit on the roof.
3. Size the inverter to fit the array.
4. Erect scaffolding and make any repairs required to the roof.
5. Install the panels onto the roof and inverter in the loft space.
6. Connect to the mains distribution board and electrical supply.
• When all insulation upgrades have taken place.
• After the loft has been insulated
• When the roof is in good condition and does not need replacing for at least 10 years.
• When scaffolding is required for other works.
• If grants become available.
Air Source Heat Pump:
1. Establish the building’s heating requirements following airtightness and insulation measures.
2. Ensure that the heat emitters and any pipework are adequately sized to provide low temperature heating.
3. Find a suitable position for the external heat pump unit, hot water cylinder etc.
4. Install the ASHP and any related heating system upgrades.
5. Consider how to adapt heating habits to make the most of the system.
Insulate Accessible Pipework:
1. Wrap exposed boiler flow and return pipework with pipe insulation.
2. Use foil coated insulation for better performance.
• When replacing existing heating system
• When all possible building fabric improvements have been made (i.e. insulation & airtightness)
• Alongside the installation of PV panels or other renewable energy generation technologies.
• With the installation of underfloor heating
• When the heating system is being upgraded.
• When floors are being lifted.
Appendix C Next Steps
Planning Permission
Since your home is located in a conservation area it is important that the character, special architectural and or historic interest of the local area is preserved. It is recommended that you check the permitted development rights with the local planning authority to determine if you need to seek planning permission for specific works included in your Future Fit Home Energy Plan.
Conservation Areas:
These are designated by the local planning authority as areas of special historic or architectural interest with a definable appearance or character. Living in such an area means that your house is subject to ‘Article 4 Directions’ whereby you are required to apply for planning permission for any external works carried out on the building and trees on the property. This may include alterations to walls, windows or roofs, installation of satellite dishes, solar panels and air source heat pumps as well as extensions, demolitions and new constructions. Most trees in a conservation area are protected under the Tree Preservation Order (TPO) so you are required to notify and consult your local planning authority six weeks before work begins.
Next Steps
Visit https://www.planningportal. co.uk/
Decide whether or not planning permission is required.
Review and understand local guidance.
Understand what features of the building or property are important in the particular case and design appropriate solution.
Consider a pre-application meeting if permission is required.
Prepare drawings, design and access statement.
Present information to planning officers. Apply for Listed Building Consent (where necessary).
For listed buildings, it would be useful to gain the trust of the Conservation Officer prior to application.
Choosing Insulation Materials
Thermal performance
The main role of insulation is to reduce the amount of heat lost from a building. Therefore, a key consideration when choosing which insulation to use is how well it resists the transfer of heat - known as it’s ‘thermal resistance’. Materials with a higher thermal resistance require a thinner layer to achieve the same level of insulation, e.g. petrochemical based materials such as EPS generally have higher thermal resistance than natural materials such as woodfibre.
The insulation also needs to be installed well to do it’s job. If heat can bypass the insulation, either by air moving around it (known as ‘thermal bypass’), or via uninsulated areas (known as ‘cold bridges’) the effect of the insulation will be limited.
Insulation is just as important in summer as it helps keep the hot outdoor air out and the cool air inside. As well as thermal performance, other properties of the insulation must be taken into consideration:
Managing moisture
Particularly for older buildings, it is very important to consider which materials you use to insulate your home. Homes constructed before 1919 tended to be built from breathable materials which allow some moisture to enter, but which dry out easily when the surroundings become less humid.
Many modern insulation materials have been developed for modern methods of construction, which aim to prevent any moisture from entering the building ‘fabric’ (i.e. the walls, floors and roof). If these materials are used on older buildings, moisture can become trapped in the building fabric leading to issues with damp and mould.
It is generally advisable to use ‘vapour permeable’ insulation materials with older buildings, to help to keep them in good condition and prevent damage.
Vapour-permeable Insulation Materials
• Mineral Wool / Glass Wool
• Wood Fibre Board
• Sheep wool insulation
• Hemp (flexible batts or hempcrete)
• Straw / Flax (e.g. strawboard)
• Aerogel
• Cork
For more information, see our miniguides: https://www.nottenergy. com/advice-and-tools
Choosing Insulation Materials
Environmental Impact
Another consideration when choosing insulation is the environmental impact of the product itself. Some key things to think about are:
• which material(s) is the product made of? is it oil based (e.g. polystyrene), or made from natural or recycled materials? does it contain any toxic chemicals?
• how much energy does it take to produce the material? how does this compare to how much energy will be saved by the insulation?
• is the material plant-based? does it absorb and lock away more carbon as it grows than is used in its manufacture? this is known as ‘carbon sequestration’.
• where was the material made? how much energy has been used transporting it?
• can the material be recycled at the end of it’s life? is it biodegradable? if not, what will happen to it?
Cork board
Hempcrete
Woodfibre board
Cellulose insulation Flax
Mineral wool batts
Extruded polystrene (XPS)
Expanded polystyrene (EPS)
Polyurethane (PUR/PIR)
Embodied Carbon impact of insulation materials
(kgCO2e released / sequestered per m2 insulation to U- value 0.12)
1. MATERIAL EXTRACTION
MANUFACTURING
TRANSIT
USE
END OF LIFE
Health and Safety Risks
Specific health and safety risks of working with older buildings
Working with existing buildings comes with specific health and safety risks. The following pages are not an extensive list of risks so when undertaking work on your property, it is best to get specific advice from an experienced professional.
Guidance on working with existing buildings and the associated risks can be found on the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) website.
https://www.hse.gov.uk/
1. Asbestos
Any building constructed or refurbished before 2000 may contain asbestos. When asbestos is disturbed or damaged it releases asbestos fibres into the air which can cause serious diseases and this can be fatal.
Before undertaking works we would recommend obtaining an Asbestos Refurbishment and Demolition Survey which will provide you with
information on the location, amount and condition of any known or presumed asbestos.
Some examples of asbestos in building materials are: paint finishes, old pipework, corrugated roofing panels, insulation boards and fire retardant coatings.
Once the appropriate surveys have been undertaken, this should be passed on to any site operatives so that they can take the necessary precautions.
A suitable professional will be able to identify the asbestos safely and advise on the removal of and/or necessary precautions. We would recommend that a specialist contractor should be engaged who is registered with the Asbestos Removal Contractors Association (ARCA).
2. Lead and Lead Paint
Lead can be found in many different parts of buildings. Lead exposure can cause serious health problems.
Lead pigments were commonly used in paints
until the early 1980s and so it can often be found underneath existing paintwork in older buildings.
Necessary precautions must be taken when undertaking work.
3. Anthrax and Horse Hair Plaster
There is a risk of asbestos and anthrax in buildings with horse hair plaster. Although the risk of anthrax from construction is categorised as low by HSE, necessary precautions must be taken when undertaking work on buildings built before 1919.
It is common to find horsehair in lath and plaster (where plaster has been applied to wooden slats) meaning that there is a potential of human exposure to anthrax when older buildings are disturbed.
Next Steps
1. Review your options
Take a look through your Home Energy Plan, consider your priorities and how these correspond with the suggested home improvement measures.
Get in touch with a member of the Future-Fit team if you require further explanations and answers to any questions that you may have. Additionally, we can support you with your application towards any grants or other funding available for the above home improvement measures.
2. Plan your improvements
Think about any repairs or maintenance tasks that need to be carried out in the near future and any other home improvements you are planning to make. Consult the ‘when’ column of your phased retrofit plan and the ‘Maintenance and Home Improvements’ page to identify any measures which could be efficiently integrated with these other works.
If you are interested in carrying out any of the works yourself, our Future-Fit Skills workshops could be for you. We are providing free, handson and online training to help you to get it right.
3. Get some quotes
If you are looking for a professional to carry out the work, we can help. We will request quotes from our list of trusted contractors and suppliers, and can help you to review the quotes and decide the best route to take.
4. Get Future-Fit!
When you are happy to proceed, we can offer further services to help you to manage your project from start to finish. NEP are a registered Home Improvement Agency, offering personalised packages of support to help with everything from sorting out contracts to signing off works.
Grants and Schemes
Scheme Offer Eligibility Timeline
Boiler Upgrade
Scheme (BUS)
£7500 for Air Source Heat Pumps
£5000 for biomass boilers
£7500 for Ground Source Heat Pumps
Well insulated property
On or off the gas grid
Urban and rural property
March 2028
Connected for Warmth
Free Cavity Wall Insulation
Homeowners and privately rented (with LL consent)
Closing soon
Free loft insulation
Council Tax band A-D
EPC rating C-G
Free ASHPs
Households and privately rented (with LL consent but no contribution needed)
With no gas central heating system
AND EPC rating E, F, G
AND In receipt of means-tested benefits
Grants and Schemes
Scheme Offer Eligibility Timeline
Energy Company
Obligation (ECO)
ECO4 Flex
Loft insulation
Internal / external wall
insulation
Solar PV panels
Underfloor heating
Electric storage heaters
Air Source Heat Pumps
Boiler replacement or repair
Homeowners: EPC rating D-G
Social housing tenants and private renters: EPC rating E-G (with LL consent and some contribution needed)
In receipt of means-tested benefits
Homeowners: EPC rating D-G
Social housing tenants and private renters: EPC rating E-G (with LL consent and some contribution needed)
Household income less than £31,000 OR cold related illness OR List of proxies
31 March 2026
Glossary
Air leakage: The unintentional movement of air through gaps, cracks and openings in the building fabric.
Airtightness: An airtight building is one where there is little unintentional air movement through the building fabric.
Building Fabric: The elements that separate the interior of a building, i.e. the roof, external walls, lowest floor, windows and doors.
Building Services: Mechanical systems installed in your home, for example heating systems and ventilation.
Carbon cost effectiveness: This is the cost per tonne of carbon saved by a measure, calculated over its minimum useful lifetime. The lower the figure, the more cost-effective the measure is in terms of it’s environmental impact.
Carbon emissions: The carbon dioxide (or equivalent greenhouse gas) released into the atmosphere as a result of a given activity or process.
Carbon sequestration: The removal and long term storage of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere in natural materials such as timber and agricultural products.
Cold Bridge: Also known as a Thermal bridge, this is an area of a building which is less well insulated than its surroundings meaning that the internal surface will be colder, causing condensation and potentially leading to damp and mould.
Energy Efficiency: Indicates how much energy you benefit from per unit of energy supplied e.g. an ‘inefficient’ property would require far more energy to be used to provide the same level of comfort as an ‘energy efficient’ property.
Energy Efficiency Score: A home’s energy efficiency score (or SAP rating) is a rating of a home’s energy efficiency used for Energy Performance Certificates, based on the estimated fuel cost per unit floor area.
Environmental Impact Rating: An environmental impact rating (EIR) is a measure of a home’s impact on the environment in terms of carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions. The higher the rating the less impact it has on the environment. This rating is based on the performance of the building and its fixed services (such as heating and lighting).
Heat Demand: The amount of heat energy needed to maintain your home at a comfortable temperature throughout the year.
Insulation Batt: Insulation ‘batts’ or ‘slabs’ are insulation materials supplied in standard sizes, designed to fit between timber studs, joists or partitions.
Inverter: An electrical device which converts ‘Direct Current’ (DC) generated by solar PV to ‘Alternating Current’ (AC) for use in your home.
Joist: A horizontal structural beam, usually arranged in parallel at regular
Glossary
intervals. In most homes, joists are the lengths of timber which form floors and ceilings.
kWh (kilo-watt hour): A unit of energy, equivalent to the energy transferred or expended in one hour by one kilowatt of power.
kWp (kilo-watt peak): The maximum output in kilowatts that your solar PV system can produce.
Lifetime cost: The cost of a measure over its predicted (minimum) lifespan, taking into account the initial installation cost and subsequent annual savings.
Low Temperature Heating: a heating system which operates at a temperature less than 55°.
MCS: Micro-generation Certification Scheme, is an industry-led quality assurance scheme, which demonstrates the quality and reliability of approved products and installation companies.
Rafter: a diagonal beam forming part of the internal structure of a roof.
Thermal Bypass: Air movement through or around the insulation, reducing its effectiveness.
Thermal Mass: The ability of a material to store heat. Thermally massive materials regulate the temperature of their surroundings by absorbing and releasing heat.
Thermal Performance: A measure of how well a building retains heat.
Thermal Resistance: The ability of a material to resist the transfer of heat.
Trickle Vent: A small, operable opening in a window to provide background ventilation when the window is closed.
Undercuts: Door undercuts are the space between the bottom of the door and the floor finish. They are required to allow air flow through the home.
Vapour Permeable: A ‘breathable’ or ‘vapour permeable’ material is one which water vapour can pass through.
Vapour Barrier: A layer within the building structure which prevents the movement of water vapour, e.g. a waterproof membrane.
Installation Record
Remember to retain as much documentation of the process as possible. Invoices for work carried out and photographs before, during and after the work will be useful to assessors, who will use the evidence to issue your property with certificates. This in turn will improve the value of your property.
