Suitcase by KaylaJoleen

S U I TC AS E cover

TRAVEL + FASHION

CONTENTS

1 TORONTO, CANADA

1 WORLD CLASS, TORONTO. P.40

BOOKS APPS AND SNACKS P.13 LIVING IN MY SUITCASE P.14 WHAT’S BLACK, WHITE AND READ ALL OVER? P.18 MOURNING COLOURS P.36

LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM

4 HARAJUKU, TOKYO

3 VRINDAVAN, INDIA

2 COLOURS OF LONDON. P.28

3 MOURNING COLOURS. P.36

4 HARAJUKU GIRLS. P.20

With special thanks to: Nayane da Costa, Barns Furr, Suzanne Kimuyu, Ellie Ricketts, Ella Schultz, Reba Maybury, Steve Davey, Gizzy Lovett, TokyoFashion.com, Sketch London, Nalla Sundarajan, and Tim Skynz.

EDITORS LETTER After a dark and gloomy winter, it can be easy to forget how much colour enriches our lives. Our foray with technology has created an appetite for minimal design, our clothes and décor echoing the need for stark and sleekness – something that I am extremely guilty of. Before this issue, it could be said that I had forgotten about colour completely, though of course, it’s not always that black and white. Our Colours of London feature showed me that it’s been there all along, just not in the way that I had expected. From the ambiguous to the bold, we have explored colour in all its guises, delving straight into the paint pot and showing you where our vibrant footprints took us. We spoke to the bright and beautiful Harajuku Girls, conceptual photographer Ella Schultz and intriguing newspaper editor Reba Maybury. And for our city guide, where else would we have chosen than the most ethnically-diverse city on the planet, Toronto. Our summer issue has covered it all; we can’t think of a better time to welcome colour back into our arms. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as I have making it. Kayla

BOOKS APPS AND SNACKS

BOOKS: The Opposite of Loneliness, £8.99, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, £7.99, What I Was Doing While You Were Breeding, £11.99. APPS: Daily Spender, Free, Wi-fi Finder, Free, Trover, Free. SNACKS: Bounce Protein Ball, £1.99, Mr Stanley’s Travel Sweets, £4.00, Innocent Coconut Water 500ml, £2.49. 13

#LIVINGINMYSUITCASE:

ELLA SCHULTZ

anchester- born photographer Ella Schultz is one to watch. The recent graduate is already making a name for herself after her striking promotional work for musician Billy Lloyd. Deviating from the usual portrait shots seen on many EP covers today, the photographer says that she wanted to create an image that was strong enough to stand alone without type, to represent Billy as an artist. ‘ A lot of the lyrics in his album link to his homosexuality, so I wanted the imagery to speak of this. I wanted it to be colourful and powerful like him; eccentric, pop and camp.’ Exposing Billy curled up in a bed of flowers, the

starkly dressed singer is arresting against the blooming colours. ‘I like to work with colour. The photography I tend to do is very conceptual, so I like to switch up colours and make an unnatural image that you wouldn’t see straight out of a camera.’ So what’s next for the rising photographer? Currently capturing performing arts in New York state, Ella has no fixed plans. ‘I’d like to move on to a design house in New York after this, but I definitely want to see a bit of the world. There’s so many places I’d like to go. South America and Southeast Asia appeal to me most at the moment.’

FESTIVE FEELING

Lao New Year

Words and interview by KAYLA DORIS Photo by STEVE DAVEY

teve Davey knows a thing or two about festivals. The London-based writer and photographer has already proved he can do bucket lists with his bestselling book Unforgettable Places to See Before You Die. Now he’s proven he knows how to celebrate too. His most recent book Around the World in 500 Festivals showcases the planet’s most enthralling festivities, a photographic documentation of Steve’s relentless roaming. Never in one place for too long, Kayla Doris manages to catch the traveller before he heads off to Burma to discuss what he knows best. KAYLA: The book exhibits many bright and boldly dressed cultural celebrations that we rarely see here. How does the UK compare to the colourful celebrations you saw in the East? STEVE: There are good festivals in the UK, wild celebrations that are exciting just to be a part of. The Notting Hill Carnival has a great vibe, as does the 16

Burning Barrel’s festival in Ottery St Mary in Devon. KAYLA: From your experience, what would you say a good festival requires? STEVE: It needs to have some sort of history and basis in the culture of the place - not just made up for commercial reasons. It needs to have been taken over by the people, in the sense that it exists in a larger sphere than a tourist office or organising committee. And it has to have some sort of unique atmosphere that makes you feel excited just by being there. KAYLA: Many of these festivals are a part of a culture’s history and religion. Do you think it’s ok for tourists to attend them? STEVE: It would have to depend on what the locals feel and also how the tourists behave. Hindu bathing festivals are especially welcoming. Even if you are not a

Hindu you will be encouraged to bathe. KAYLA: If it’s possible to narrow them down, what would you say your favourite festivals that you attended were? And if you had to only recommend one festival what would it be? STEVE: The one festival I would recommend to anyone is the Kumbh Mela in India. It truly is the largest and most mind-blowing festival on earth. It is a humbling vast and ancient festival that attracts thousands of sadhus or wandering holy men. It has to be seen to be believed. Having said that Lao New Year in Luang Prabang is pretty wild too, a vibrant and crazy waterfight festival – it’s the best time to visit the city. My other favourites were little-known festival Sonepur Mela where there are hardly any tourists, the madcap Burning Barrels festival which was very dangerous and fast-moving, and the gypsy festival in the Camargue. It’s very cultural and in a beautiful location, a pilgrimage attracting Roma Gypsies from all over Europe. KAYLA: Was there ever a moment where you felt as though you couldn’t completely enjoy the festival as you were trying to get the perfect picture? STEVE: Sometimes it is a possibility, but then having a camera is a great way to engage with people and the festival itself. It means that you have a reason to be there rather than just staring, and an excuse to engage with people and speak to them about their thoughts and hopes for the festival. It also really helps you to get a good access to the festival as I’ll often be invited to take part in processions and events etc. KAYLA: I am often guilty of doing that [previous question]. What do you think of the Instagram obsession? Is it good or bad that we’re all taking so many pictures? STEVE: It depends on those pictures. The obsession to slavishly record everything without any thought or creativity or the drive to throw a selfie regardless of the situation and the appropriateness of doing it is a sign of

Burning Barrels Festival

the self-obsessed culture we live in. Taking pictures is a great thing if it allows you to creatively communicate and interpret the world. If it’s just creating endless background noise then it is somewhat pointless. There are some incredibly creative pictures being taken on camera phones. There is also a lot of dross. Often the worst offenders are the people who will video everything. If photography helps you to engage with the festival and the moment, then it is a good thing. If it stops you engaging then it is quite negative. KAYLA: Any last advice for capturing a good festival photo? STEVE: Engage with the festival and the people taking part. Throw yourself in the deep end and immerse yourself in the experience. The person looking at your pictures will have a similar experience to the one you had when taking the pictures, so they will be more effective and communicate better the more involved you are. 17

Interview and words by KAYLA DORIS

eba Maybury has the answer. The Sang Bleu editor has created her own newspaper called Radical People, a publication featuring those aged over 50 and the youth cultures they were a part of. Featuring stories and memories from radical Londoners, the paper gives a voice to those who were forerunners of British subcultures. Purposely choosing not to feature those with celebrity status, Reba discusses why she’s opposing the mainstream with Suitcase. How would you describe Radical People? Reba: Radical People is a newspaper dedicated to today’s apathetic and bored. It asks each subcultural hero to recount a memory of a radical experience or their own interpretation of the word, to celebrate these individuals for living authentic lives against the grain of the mainstream. 18

What first triggered your idea for it and how did it grow from there? Reba: I went into Artwords book shop and flicked through all the major fashion magazines and despaired over how white, thin, privileged, irresponsible and ill-educated the references and context to the fashion stories were. It can also be said that of the art world where trends such as post internet art don’t necessarily tackle politics but narcissism. So I wanted to make a magazine which studied where the route of fashion and art actually comes from. And that is through rebellious natures revolving around class, race and gender and those ideas are then applied to the body which eventually becomes fashion or art i.e. punk, mods, hippies and these cultures that produce work. I’m also awfully aware of how deadened people seem to be to our increasingly cruel and money obsessed

government. The poor and are getting poorer and the rich are getting richer and people only seemed interested in staring into their phone screens. Why did you decide on a newspaper format rather than a magazine? Reba: Because it was cheap! And it’s a democratic format for a publication. The newspaper focuses on people who were a part of the beginning of certain subcultures. Youth culture today doesn’t have any defining subcultures of its own. Why do you think that is? Reba: Capitalism’s relationship to the internet means that subculture can’t last very long before being engulfed by corporate marketing strategies. Things end before they’ve even started. Any kid from anywhere in the world can photograph themselves in their bathroom wearing a brilliantly original outfit and Adidas can have it on their office walls on the same day. It also seems obvious that these people would have the most interesting stories, yet why do you think the majority of the media chooses to focus on the opposite i.e young people with not much to say? Because youth, sex and vanity sells. And that’s what it’s all about, making more money, it’snot about compassion or values, it’s about cold hard cash. Any favourite stories from the first issue? Reba: Judy Blame put it right when he said that ‘After years of drug taking and experimenting with every part of my life I’ve realised that the most radical thing you can do is look after yourself and others.’

You can find a copy of Radical People in London shop Sang Bleu and restaurant Hoi Polloi. 19

HARAJUKU PIC

Harajuku Girls WORDS AND INTERVIEW BY:

KAYLA DORIS

IMAGES PROVIDED BY TOKYOFASHION.COM

With an estimated 37.8 million residents, Tokyo is by far the most populous city in the world. The urban area is made up of 23 wards, each having their own set of congested districts that appear interchangeable to unwitting outsiders. And yet despite being a small part of this swarming city, the district of Harajuku has managed to carve an identity of its own, one so discernible that it is easily identified even in the west. It is the audacious, brightly dressed teens who have etched this image, though it is not all pink and Hello Kitty that tourists may believe it to be. Japanese student Gizzy tells you all you need to know about the bold Harajuku girls.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;First of all

let me tell you a few things about the Harajuku fashion scene. There is no such thing as the Harajuku Fashion.

“

Instead there are many different sub-genres to it. The most colourful styles are

Lolita, Decora, and Fairy Kei.

LOLITA

DECORA

FAIRY KEI

“The goal for Lolita fashion is to look doll-like. It’s a very elegant and feminine style, although again it can depend on the subgenre. There is Gothic Lolita with dark colours like black, red and blue. There is Sweet Lolita, with white, pink, baby blue and mostly soft colours, and there are other sub-genres like Sailor Lolita and Hime (princess) Lolita.”

“The Decora style is colourful. Seriously, any colour you can think of, you could find there. The goal is mostly to choose three colours for your outfit and combine them, for example: white, red, pink! What’s important for Decora is that it’s a playful and almost child-like style. You use a lot of accessories like hair pins, ribbons, necklaces, rings, even toys might be added. Because it’s a rather cute and fun style, you often see people in twin tails or braided hair!”

“Fairy Kei is trying to do exactly that: make you look like a Fairy. Colours for that style are always very soft, pastel colours - white, beige, soft pink, baby blue, soft yellow, mint green. The hair style & make-up is also made to look sweet and fairy-like, so soft curls and pink blush on your cheeks is common. There are similarities between Fairy Kei and Decora, because both are colourful and use lots of accessories, but I’d say Decora is more vibrant and bright colours. Fairy Kei is softer, pale colours.”

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

Sub-genres of the Harajuku fashion scene are kind of a rebellious act.

“In Japan, people are expected to be “uniform”: everyone is expected to look and be the same. In school, they have uniforms. When they work for any kind of company, they are supposed to have black/brown hair, a simple haircut and always wear suits. So all sub-genres of the Harajuku fashion scene are kind of a rebellious act against that uniformness. They develop from the wish of representing oneself and not looking just like any other Japanese person. Since those sub-genres are mostly for younger people, they usually just dress like that on the weekends for events or meeting friends.”

TIPS “In Harajuku, just walking down Takeshita Street already has 90% of sub-genres you could think of and you can get really delicious crepe’s here too.” “For shops, I’d walk through Harajuku for the more colourful boutiques. 109 is good for Gyaru fashion and there’s also big department stores like Laforet. Laforet is for a bit more expensive fashion and the two lowest floors have popular brands for Lolita and other alternative styles.” “The Harajuku Fashion Walk is an event that mostly takes place in Tokyo, but has had events in other cities (and even other countries) too. It happens every second month on a Sunday and it’s basically just an event where people of all kinds of styles meet, walk around in Harajuku, talk to each other take pictures. It’s a huge meeting place for anyone that is interested in fashion; even people that don’t dress up can join in. In the spring time they organise Hanami [flower viewing] too, so they sit in a park nearby and have picnics!” 25

WORDS BY KAYLA DORIS

COLOURS OF LONDON

hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a set of colours ruling the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital, less obvious than the archetypal red, white and blue. The Union Jack may be flying overhead, but beneath the pavements a different ensemble of lines map the city, streaks of colour that snake indiscernibly to each corner of the region. Always within close proximity, the London Underground has been serving workers and tourists since 1863. The first underground railway in the world, the city has always been one to lead. Now Suitcase leads you through the convoluted network, a tour guide to the essential stops and shops. Hold on, avoid during rush hour and mind the closing doors.

DISTRICT AND CIRCLE

finished with toppings such as truffles, salsa tartufata and spinach and grana padano shavings. GRANGE HOTEL ST PAUL’S Station: Blackfriars

GOOD LIFE EATERY Station: Sloane Square Good Life is opposing the city’s burger obsession and taking the lead as London’s first cold-pressed juice bar and healthy eatery. Appealing packaging has made it popular with Instagram-lovers, but Good Life Eatery is more than just a pretty space. With locallysourced ingredients and vegan and vegetarian options, Good Life is proving how tasty healthy food can be. Smoothies, soups and superfoods are its speciality, but if you’re feeling particularly angelic go for the Goodness Bowl, a generous serving of salad with caramelised onion hummous, avocado, zuchinni fettuccini and sweet potato falafel.

Overlooking St Paul’s Cathedral, the Grange is five star accommodation. Targeted at stylish business travellers, the polished hotel offers selections from six restaurants and bars including Japanese eatery Benihana and international restaurant Globe. The hotel mixes business and pleasure, combining business centres and meeting rooms with spa treatments, pool access and female-friendly rooms.

ICE AND SLICE Station: Fulham Broadway (District) Located in Jerdan Place, Ice and Slice is an essential summer hangout. Grab an ice-cream cone or a slice of pizza with friends, all freshly made each day in front of customers. The Italian gelato is made free from preservatives and added colour, coming in creamy original flavours such as Crunchy Cornflake and Elderflower. Pizza can be bought by slice or in 70cm strips to share, made from homemade sourdough and

Good Life Eatery 32

Kyoto Garden

Sketch

CENTRAL KYOTO GARDEN Station: Holland Park Take a trip to Holland Park to escape from the bustle of the city, where you’ll find Kyoto Garden. Designed in 1992 after the Japan Festival in London, the garden provides tranquility that you’re unlikely to find in the capital’s busier parks. Visit in the week to enjoy the stone waterfall and pond, where you’ll spot Koi fish and the occasional peacock nearby. SKETCH Station: Oxford Circus Covering two floors, Sketch is the brainchild of French master chef Pierre Gagnaire and restauranteur Mourad Mazouz. The multiple rooms contain a combination of art, food and music, all boasting extravagant décor and French-inspired cuisine. Our favourite space is The Gallery, an entirely pink room adorned with scribbles

and drawings from artist David Shrigley, serving afternoon tea and dinner. Even the kitchenware comes decorated with his designs. Expect to see salt and pepper shakers labelled Dirt and Dust and plates doodled with famous London streets. THE BEAUMONT Station: Bond Street This independent boutique hotel is located in Mayfair. Set in the quiet square of Brown Hart Gardens, The Beaumont exudes grandeur with its polished oak furnishings and original art pieces. If you’re looking for some peace, stay in artist Anthony Gormley’s sculpture, an architectural extension designed to create a meditative environment. Those wanting more relaxation can head down to the Art Deco Hamam and Spa, where you’ll find the cold marble plunge pool, a warmed massage slab and the relaxation area. TIP

Don’t forget the other coloured mode of transport: Boris bikes. Grab a blue bicycle from a number of stations around the city and take a leisurely pace through Little Venice or St James Park. 33

Experimental Cocktail Club

Hook

PICCADILLY EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL CLUB Station: leicester square

NORTHERN HOOK Station: Camden Town

Hidden away in China Town, this basement club has a speakeasy feel. Exposed brick walls and candlelit tables add to the 1930’s atmosphere, making it a cosy haunt for groups and couples. Set across three floors, the bar serves an impressive selection of cocktails and vintage spirits. If you can’t decide, let the bar staff choose for you – it’s called experimental for a reason.

Hook is turning the traditional British fish and chips on its head (or tail), confidently claiming to be the best there is. The fresh fish comes in flavours like lemon and fennel, jerk, or lime, mint and wasabi, all accompanied by seaweed salted chips. Always producing the alternative, Hook’s sides include minty mushy peas and sea spaghetti. Even the dips are worth a visit, with flavours such as lemon Cajun and garlic truffle.

WILD FOOD CAFÉ Station: Covent Garden

GOODHOOD Station: Old Street

If the colourful courtyard of Neil’s Yard doesn’t pick you up, then the organic café located within it will. Wild Food Café offers raw-centric, vegan and vegetarian dishes for those who find it difficult to find many options elsewhere. Gluten-free, dairy-free, wheat intolerant or simply on health-kick, the menu caters to all dietary needs. Chocolate lovers, try the Forgotten Ecstasy smoothie; raw cacao power and coconut milk, topped with edible flowers.

Walk into this Shoreditch store and you’ll be hit with burning incense and a series of independent travel and style magazines. Go back further and you’ll find rails of minimal clothes, a selection of chic designs and oneoff pieces. Downstairs you’ll find quirky homeware, stationery, and cosmetics. You can even buy its designer incense, coming in scents with titles such as Thug Life and Booty Call.

Goodhood

THE VAULTS Station: Waterloo If you think you’ve mastered the Underground, try to find your way around the Vaults. It’s a 30,000 square foot area beneath Waterloo station. The underground labyrinth has been turned into an immersive experience space for the public, hosted by various performance art groups. This summer sees Alice’s Adventures Underground, where the vaults have been transformed into Lewis Carroll’s Wonderland. Those looking for more of a thrill can try the Zombie Blitz, an obstacle course where the undead lurk around every corner. THE CRYPT Station: Charing Cross Located in the 18th century crypt of medieval church St Martin-in-the-Fields, this café is in a striking setting. The underground chamber exhibits high-brick ceilings and historic tombstones, serving traditional British food. The menu is simple but well done – think full

English breakfasts, roasts, scones and tea. It’s a selfserving café but the real pleasure comes from the location. Visit on a Wednesday evening to listen to jazz bands.

METROPOLITAN CELESTINE ELEVEN Station: Liverpool Street The Shoreditch-based concept store launched two years ago and has quickly become a Suitcase favourite. Described as an alternative luxury store, the shop focuses on fashion and wellbeing. Placing designer clothes with holistic products, the philosophy here is that the fashionable lifestyle extends to body and mental health as well as aesthetics. Merging sleek western designs with eastern spirituality, Celestine Eleven is a must visit for those keen on clean living.

MOURNING COLOURS WORDS BY KAYLA DORIS

he ancient Holi festival marks the arrival of spring in India, a celebration held in rejoice of the Hindu legends that have passed through generations. Bonfires are lit across the country on the eve of the festival, symbolic of the burning of the demoness Holika. The better known festival of colours takes place the day after, said to have originated from love legend Radha Krishna. Said collectively for the connection that they held, Radha and Krishna’s love began as children. The young Lord Krishna worried his blue skin would prevent Radha from liking him, so he smeared colours over her face making them the same. This playful throwing of colours is repeated by Holi revellers each year, the vibrant collisions shared even with strangers. The festival is so jubilant that it has been replicated in 36

cities around the world, all joining in on the good-humoured colour fights seen in the streets of India. The powders commemorate the Hindu beliefs, but this year the colours highlighted a different cultural practice. In the town of Vrindavan, hundreds of women joined in on the celebrations. The act does not sound out of the ordinary, but these women were widows. In India they are considered bad luck, omens that are not allowed to join in with any form of joyous occasion. To partake in Holi goes against thousands of years of tradition, but charity organisation Sulabh are trying to break the social taboo by coordinating the event in Vrindavan, also known as the City of Widows. Each year hundreds of women flee

to the city to escape their lives as outcasts. As the birthplace of Lord Krishna, it is here that the widows find shelter, spending the rest of their lives devoted to God. It is believed that there are over 16000 widows in the North Indian town living off charity, but throughout the rest of the country there are approximately 40 million. Many of these women are as a young as their twenties, an age where socially speaking their lives should be beginning, not ending. How did it come to be this way? Founder of women’s welfare charity Lighthouse, Nalla Sundarajan, explains more about the Indian traditions. “There is no such thing as just a woman with her own independent self. This is true in most of the population here and this sentiment exists in almost

100% of the poor population (about 60-70% of India).” This chauvinistic attitude means that an Indian woman is either someone’s daughter or someone’s wife; without the protection of a man she may fall victim to abuse. The usually illiterate parents will marry their daughters off as soon as they reach puberty, for they do not know any different. Some of these girls can be as young as ten. Often it will be because their parents are unable to protect them from rape or kidnapping when they are alone at home. However, married to a poor man 15 years her senior usually means not only the same poverty continues but also the likelihood of abuse. “The majority of the men are alcoholic in this category [poverty],” says Nalla. “Because of this either of two scenarios happen. One – his liver/kidneys fail and he dies, or two – he drives to work drunk without his helmet. Even a small accident leaves him partially crippled or he dies. This is why we have so many young women in their twenties widowed with young children.” The loss would come as yet another bout of bad luck for the widow. She is now a social outcast, blamed for the death of her husband. Classed as a jinx, it is believed to be her bad luck that has caused her husband’s death. Even to see a widow in the morning is unlucky, expected to bring a bad day ahead for those that have seen her. “The other consequence is the sexual harassment she endures from practically every

man,” says Nalla. “She becomes very vulnerable without the protection of a man and is constantly barraged with sexual advances from men wherever she goes. Unfortunately, there is no safe institution like the police station for her to seek protection - even the police are part of the ‘hounders.’ No widow either single or with children will be given a house to rent since the owners are aware that sooner or later, she has to end up with an illicit relationship just for survival. So every man’s wife will deny her the opportunity to work and live close by - in short, her life becomes a living hell.” Cast out of the family home, it can be hard to believe that a woman’s own children may throw her out. “There seems to be a complete lack of empathy from the general society because she is suffering for something horrible that she must have done in her previous lives (bad karma),” explains Nalla. “Therefore she is deserving of everything she has to face. Because of [lack of education], there is fear that her bad luck could come to others.” The stigma surrounding widows has been worse in the past. Hindu mythology glorifies widows who end their lives, making sati a common practice, where a woman would throw herself upon the funeral pyre of her husband and burn alive. Though this was banned in 1987, there are still stories of it taking place today. Perhaps it may seem the only way out of a life of poverty and isolation or even prostitution. “How and where would

one start to change the mind-sets of ignorant people?” asks Nalla. “I have no clue.” The inclusion of the Vrindavan widows at this years Holi may be a sign of slowly changing mindsets. The women have never previously been allowed to any happy occasions including weddings, incase the ‘bad’ within her ruins the lives of others as it did for her husband. Their participation in the Holi festival is liberating, an attempt by the Sulabh charity to bring them back into mainstream society. Like Sulabh, Nalla’s charity works in empowering women after the death of their husbands, meeting those that have been imprisoned for prostitution and teaching them basket weaving, budgeting and HIV prevention. “We are striving to buy about an acre of land and build a Shelter in the outskirts of Chennai city where the women and her children can use our facility as an emergency Shelter until she gets her bearings. During her stay we can provide vocational skill training so she can survive outside our Shelter.” The interventions of these charities and others like them are a promising sign for the future, with the Supreme Court also agreeing that these conditions are unacceptable. For the widows in Vrindavan, Holi was more than a celebration. The colours were a sign of hope, for them and rest of the women in India, hope for a bright future in a dark mourning. 37

WORLD CLASS TORONTO

WORDS BY KAYLA DORIS Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most populous city is the most multicultural on the planet. With only half of its residents being Canadian natives, the metropolis has welcomed those who have emigrated from other lands and created a new home with them hand in hand. The diversity is embodied everywhere you go; in the endless varieties of food; the creativity that decorates the streets; the friendly faces of locals who between them speak over 140 languages. The city is all-inclusive. From the skyscrapers to the beaches, and the little communities that reside in Greek Town, China Town, Little India, Little Italy and Little Portugal, it can seem as though you have the whole world sprawled across the great Lake Ontario. This isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t to be mistaken for separate living communes. In fact a large Vietnamese population lives in China Town and many Portuguese in Little Italy. Nobody is confined to specific areas or divided here. Everyone is exactly where they want to be, in the great city that they all call home.

STAY HOTEL LE GERMAIN Rooms from £175 per night Stay at the Maple Leaf Square outlet for a sophisticated and modern design. Situated in the business district, Le Germain’s minimal exterior corresponds with its location, combining sleekness with eco-friendly elements. The entertainment district is in walking distance but anything else can be reached by the adjacent train station. Enjoy Chef Ken Zess’s menu before heading off to the Play lounge. THOMPSON HOTEL Rooms from £146 per night (excluding tax) A central location makes Thompsons one of the best viewing platforms in the city. The rooftop lounge and infinity pool can be enjoyed in front of the Toronto skyline, though the décor itself is something to admire. Contemporary designs and contrasting furnishings can be found in the deluxe rooms, which come with deep

Thompson Hotel

marble baths and heated flooring. All rooms have open views of the city and Lake Ontario. Be sure to visit the 24 hour diner if late-night city scoping is keeping you up. THE DRAKE HOTEL Rooms from £249 per night (excluding tax) This accommodation is as much of a hotel as it is a cultural hub. A regular space for art exhibitions and food events, The Drake’s basement hosts live music and film screenings, whilst a cocktail bar can be found on the rooftop. The stylish rooms come in three sizes; Crashpad’s, Den’s and Salon’s, all featuring exposed brick walls, glass showers and art installations. Book the Suite if you’re looking to brainstorm while visiting. It comes with its own living area complete with desks and armchairs to read or work. A private yoga instructor is available if you’re looking to relax or head down to the restaurant to try the seasonal menu. TIP Don’t miss the hotel’s Corner Café – the scones are a must-try.

EAT + DRINK

SMOKE’S POUTINERIE Little Italy, Adelaide, Queen, Liberty Village Dotted in several locations across the city, Smoke’s has been serving Canada’s national dish poutine since its launch in 2008. The first restaurant to sell exclusively poutine, Smoke’s lack of variety on the menu is compensated by its quality. A simple combination of fries, gravy and cheese curds, travellers may question its allure until they take a visit. Generous portions and a selection of indulgent toppings has made it a firm favourite with locals. Try the chipotle pulled pork poutine for the ultimate comfort food. PAI TORONTO 18 Duncan Street, M5H 3G8

revives elements of its namesake, offering a cushioned seating area and an indoor street vendor for takeout. Table and chair dining is also provided in front of the open kitchen, but book in advance to secure the private dining section, where you can relax on lowered benches and cushions while enjoying curry served inside a coconut. 416 SNACK BAR 181 Bathurst St, M5T 2R7 Sharing-plates and a buzzing atmosphere makes this a popular late night hangout for friends. Open until 2am, the stripped-back venue has been curated to reflect the city’s diversity. The menu offers snack-sized portions from various cultures that make up the local neighbourhood, including Jewish, Israeli and Chinese. The pork belly in a sticky steamed bun is a sell-out for a reason. Use of knives and forks are disapproved – this is refined finger food at its best.

Set just below street-level, this unassuming restaurant provides some of the best Thai food in the city. Named after a town in northern Thailand, the restaurant

Pai Toronto

The Drake 43

Good Egg

Bodega Thirteen

SHOP QUEEN STREET WEST

GOOD EGG 267 Augusta Ave, M5T 2M2

Often touted as one of the coolest streets in the world, Queen Street West has everything you need. Offbeat boutiques and vintage shops mix with predominant high street brands, but all possess the same artsy charm. Colours and graffiti decorate the street, which is home to multiple galleries including the Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art. Visit early to spend a whole day exploring the neighbourhood.

Solely dedicated to food lovers, Good Egg is where you’ll find kitsch kitchen products. Attentive to the art and culture behind food, they stock illustrated cookbooks, food philosophy books and independent food magazines from around the world. The shop is the perfect place is you’re looking to find unusual gifts for loved ones.

BODEGA THIRTEEN 1446 Dundas St W, M6J 1Y7

HOLT RENFREW 50 Bloor St W, M4W 1A1

Created by father and daughter, Bodega Thirteen combines old and new with reworked clothes and furniture. Stocking Canadian designers as well as their own in-house line, the clothes are simple, mainly compromising of black and white staple pieces. The minimal store stocks magazines that can’t be found anywhere else in Toronto. Make sure to look out for the ‘B’ on the front door; –the owners decided to keep the old hairdressing shop sign above.

Visit 50 Bloor Street for Holt’s flagship store, the only destination for those who enjoy luxury. The megastore stocks designer clothes, make up and jewellery and offers a spa and salon on the second floor if you’re looking to feel refreshed. The stylish café offers an array of healthy selections for lunch and dinner including

Royal Ontario Museum

DO PARTY AT THE MUSEUM (ROM)

ROYAL

ONTARIO

The art and history museum is the largest in Canada and is home to a multitude of exhibitions and galleries. Regularly hosting a number of events, the ROM is the unlikely venue for a night out. Friday Night Live invites visitors to a themed night of drinking and dancing, where you can take part in gallery activities and experiences. Be entertained by DJs, dancers, comedians and lecturers, and replenish yourself with the several pop-up food vendors that are on offer. HEAD TO THE ISLANDS Escape the city by catching the ferry over to one of Toronto’s islands. Centre Island hosts a series of concerts throughout the summer. Annual festival ‘Electric Island’ showcases international and local talent in the outdoor park, taking place on four weekends from May-September. Those looking for more sand than greenery can head to the Centre Island beach, but if you want to escape the tourists Ward’s Beach is a short bike ride away. This is the part of the island where residents live year-round, so the remote area will mainly be locals. The beach offers an incredible view of the skyline so be sure to find a secluded spot to watch to sun set over the city. TIP: If you’re looking for more beaches, head to the east end of the city. Bluffer’s Beach, Woodbine Beach and Kew Balmy Beach are the prettiest. RELAX AT RIPLEY AQUARIUM Located downtown, a nice way to spend your evening is listening to Jazz music at the Ripley Aquarium. The live band plays bluesy rhythms in front of the underwater tanks, making it a relaxing and soothing experience. If you’re more of a morning person then try the early yoga classes. They take place in the Rainbow Reef gallery, where you can watch the tropical colours from the Pacific Ocean.

TORONTO INSIDER: SUZANNE KIMUYU

SLEEPLESS NIGHTS WORDS AND INTERVIEW: KAYLA DORIS It’s past midnight in a street downtown and I am faced with a huge underwater tank in my path. Inside a woman casually mops, fluidly carrying out household chores at the bottom of the 12 foot chamber. On my way here I was blocked by a graffiti-adorned robot, an instance I don’t come across often but tonight it is to be expected. Nuit Blanche – pronounced nu-wee blonsh - is a night when Toronto belongs to the artists, who turn the city into their very own amusement park and invite the locals to come and play. Translating as sleepless nights, the activities go on from dusk until dawn, enticing crowds to leave their beds and explore our transformed streets with new eyes. Over 80 projects, talks and performances are to be found, attracting thousands of visitors from out of town. The showcase takes place each year and Toronto was the first North American city to host the celebrations, inspiring other cities in America such as New York and Chicago to follow. I’ve poorly timed my method this year. Hoping to begin in Chinatown, we planned a strategic route to take us to the most anticipated pieces while passing other installations on the way. Leaving before 10pm proves to be a bad idea. Many families are still out at this time, and though the bustle of the crowds and excited 46

children stimulate the night even more, it can mean that you can’t always get to see the pieces you want, especially the interactive ones. Art in Toronto is as much of a way of life as being chic is in Paris. The locals embody and embrace it as much as the city does, whose walls are adorned with street art and filled with culture. Whether it’s through film, music or photography, with a spray can or a paintbrush, creativity is encouraged. Even our social celebrations can take place in museums, galleries and aquariums, a further reminder of the affiliation between art and our lifestyles. Nuit Blanche is when you get to see it all, observing the diverse crowds who thrive in this environment. Many galleries and museums are free tonight, but so far on the streets I’ve witnessed the human aquarium, the robot and a three-storey-high tower constructed of clothes. Titled ‘Made in China,’ the construction fills a gap between two shops in Chinatown, the purpose of the piece to show the bridge between China and the western world. Across the city international artist Maximo Gonzalez has filled a school’s park with over 7000 inflatable globes for goers to immerse themselves in. The interactive piece is called a ‘Walk Among Worlds’ and intends to take visitors on a journey to

TORONTO INSIDER: TIM SKYNZ

PAINTING THE TOWN RED WORDS AND INTERVIEW: KAYLA DORIS

Graphic designer and artist Tim Skynz is leaving colour throughout Toronto. Walk the streets of the city and you’ll see marks of where he’s been, his signature neon colours sprawled across the walls. Often designing unusual creatures and beings, his vibrant graffiti has extended from the streets to badges, book covers and stickers. His most recent work has involved a collaboration with artist Mike Perry to create a ‘Choose Happy’ campaign for billboards around Toronto. Spray can in hand, street art on his mind, Tim talks to Suitcase about graffiti in his hometown. SUITCASE: What is the art scene in Toronto like? Would you say it’s a good place for art? TIM: The art scene here is good. The city is filled with artists and people who appreciate art. Local gallery shows and outdoor events take place almost every week throughout the year. The galleries and the artists themselves are spread out all over the city so there’s no specific area with a large artist community. There definitely exists cities with a stronger and closer art community, but despite the distance, the Toronto scene still continues to grow. SUITCASE: Street art has really grown in popularity and many street artists have had their work shown in

galleries. Do you think this is a good thing or does it negate the initial purpose of street art by taking it out of the street? TIM: It’s good if the artist has gained enough recognition by putting in work in the street for a gallery to reach out to them and organize a successful show. It means their hard work has paid off, and they can see how many people appreciate their work by the turnout of the opening night. The problem arises when artists stop painting on the street and shift their work into the gallery setting, but still keep the same style that attracts fans of street art to the gallery shows. Or when artists have never painted a wall but choose to work in a style inspired by street art and graffiti to draw out those same fans. Then they start to lose respect from other artists, as they’re taking advantage of the popularity of an art style without putting in the same effort as everyone else.

SUITCASE: How did you get into street art? TIM: I got into drawing creatures as a kid and haven’t really stopped since. I would say I’m just into art as a whole, not just street art. I enjoy working with warm colours, but they don’t necessarily define my work. 47

TORONTO INSIDER: SUZANNE KIMUYU the centre of the Earth. The only interactive piece I’ve reached so far is ‘Amaze’, a labyrinth with walls made of fine white fabric where light patterns have been projected. The complex passages are to indicate the notion of finding yourself by getting lost. Maze or no maze, I could not think of any other city I would rather lose myself in than the sleepless nights of Toronto.

INSIDER TIP If you’re looking to escape the busy shopping centres, then head to Kensington Market. Not to be mistaken for an actual market, Kensington Market is a downtown

neighbourhood with a hippy atmosphere. If you go on the last Sunday of every month during the summer you’ll find my favourite street festival. Music, street food and the smell of BBQ’s fill the air, where you can enjoy drinks out of a pineapple while you wonder the streets. Buckets of chalk will be strewn along the roadside for everyone to scribble on the pavements. There are usually lots of peace and love signs but I saw one last year that said ‘will you marry me?’ Huge life-sized board games will be in the streets too; the whole community comes together to create the good atmosphere. Musicians play in the parks, locals sit in the streets with boomboxes and street-dancers and fire artists `perform. All the shops down the main street keep their doors open as well, and many of the local art galleries are free that day, meaning you can make a whole day out of your visit here.

Walk Among Worlds installation 48

TORONTO INSIDER: TIM SKYNZ SUITCASE: When you do a piece of street art is it something you’ve taken a long time to plan or do you ever improvise? TIM: I usually improvise when painting a wall. Sometimes there’s a sketch but I usually don’t follow it. SUITCASE: What’s your favourite thing about being an artist in Toronto?

SUITCASE: Lastly, do you have any recommendations for those that are visiting Toronto? TIM: I would say go and check out some of the more interesting areas of the city rather than spending all your time waiting in line at the tourist attractions. Spend a day walking around Kensington Market and Chinatown. Go bar hopping on Bloor St. If you visit in the summer try to check out one of the big art/music/ cultural festivals. And don’t visit in February unless you’re into slush and ice and -20°C weather.”

TIM: Painting outside in the summer in the city is always fun, and helping to organize local art shows is a good time as well. The art scene here is pretty friendly; if you go out to art events you’ll meet some awesome artists.