Germantown: Building Blocks by Courtney Kelley

Building Blocks: Hats

Roll Brim Hat: natural 105, 1 skein. K2, P2 Rib Brim Hat: pebble 059, 1 skein. K2, P2 Rib Hat: navy 410, 1 skein. US 6 (4 mm) and US 7 (4.5 mm)

Building Blocks Mittens

Stockinette: honey 708, 1 skein. Broken Ribbing: jade 338, 1 skein. Colorwork: rhododendron 609, natural 105, 1 skein each. US 4 (3.5 mm) and US 6 (4 mm)

Building Blocks Scarves

Garter Scarf: rhododendron 609, 2 skeins. 2x2 Rib Scarf: navy 410, 2 skeins, jade 338, 1 skein. Cabled Scarf: honey 708, 2 skeins. US 7 (4.5 mm)

Building Blocks: Hats Courtney Kelley

Specifications

YARN Kelbourne Woolens Germantown (100% North American wool; 220 yds/100gm skein). Hat A / Roll Brim Hat: natural 105, 1 skein. Hat B / K2, P2 Rib Brim Hat: pebble 059, 1 skein. Hat C / K2, P2 Rib Hat: navy 410, 1 skein. GAUGE 17 sts + 26 rnds = 4” (10 cm) in St st on larger needles, after blocking. 29 sts + 24 rnds = 4” (10 cm) in K2, P2 Ribbing on larger needles, unstretched, after blocking. NEEDLES 1 – US 6 (4 mm) 16” (40 cm) circular. 1 – US 7 (4.5 mm) 16” (40 cm) circular. 1 – set US 7 (4.5 mm) DPNs. Check your gauge and adjust needle size(s) accordingly if necessary. NOTIONS Locking stitch markers, darning needle. SIZE Hats A + B / 17 (18, 19, 19.75)” [43 (45.75, 48.25, 50) cm] circumference, 10.5” (26.75 cm) length. Hat C / To fit 19” (48.25 cm) circumference: 11” (28 cm) circumference, unstretched, 10.5” (26.75 cm) length. SKILLS Hat A / Working in the round, decreasing. Hats B + C / Working in the round, decreasing, ribbing.

Worthy of Note

This Building Blocks pattern is designed to be one of the only hat patterns you’ll ever need! Laid out a little differently than our other Kelbourne Woolens designs, this pattern is a little more word-heavy and breaks down some of the intermediate-level techniques in order to make the knitting easy and enjoyable. The hope is that you not only learn something along the way, you end up with a fabulous hat - or hats - as well! Three versions are designed in order of difficulty: Hat A is a simple stockinette stitch hat with a rolled brim. Hat B is a classic stockinette stitch hat with a ribbed brim. Hat C features ribbing throughout. The hats are knit in the round from the bottom up. When joining for working in the round, be very careful not to twist your stitches around the circular needle. The base of your cast on should be pointing down, and not wrapped in a spiral around the needle. Take time to double check after the first few of rounds to make sure you’re not unintentionally knitting a moebius strip.

The hats decrease at the crown in four places. Both circular and double pointed needles (DPNs) are needed to make the hat; as you decrease the crown, you will eventually have too few stitches to fit around the circumference of your circular needle and will switch to DPNs. The decreases are all worked as “knit two together”, even on the ribbed hat. It is important that you follow the instructions for the ribbing very closely for Hat C so that all of your decreases are worked as “knits”. You will place a marker at each decrease point to help you count. When changing to DPNs, if you elect to knit one decrease segment onto each of four DPNs and use the fifth as your working needle, you may remove the markers at this point. (Don’t be afraid of DPNs!) There are a few tips and tricks provided in the pattern. They are individually linked throughout and also available at kelbournewoolens.com/knitting-tips-and-tricks.

Abbreviations

CO: cast on dec’d: decreased k2tog: knit 2 sts together – 1 st dec’d meas: measures mult: multiple ndl(s): needle(s) patt: pattern PM: place marker rep: repeat rnd: round st(s): stitch(es) St st: Stockinette stitch For a list of other commonly used abbreviations, visit: kelbournewoolens.com/abbreviations.

What Size Do I Make?

This pattern offers multiple sizes to fit a small to an extra large head. To decide which size is right for you, measure around the crown of your head by wrapping a flexible tape measure around your forehead and the widest part of your skull. Decide how you’d like the hat to fit. If you have a lot of curly hair, and don’t want to squash your ‘do, add .5-1” to your measurement for a slouchy, loose fit. If you like a cap that hugs your head and will stay on while you’re zooming down the street on your bike, subtract .5-1” from your measurement. If you want a hat that fits just right, make the size closest to your actual measurement. 2

Building Blocks: Hats Courtney Kelley

Hat 1 Pom Pom

Crown Decreases

Body 6.5” Stockinette

Rolled Brim 1.5” Stockinette

Building Blocks: Hats Courtney Kelley

Hat 2

Crown Decreases

Body 5.5” Stockinette

Brim 2.5” K2, P2 Ribbing

Building Blocks: Hats Courtney Kelley

Hat 3

Crown Decreases

Body 5.5” K2, P2 Ribbing

Brim 2.5” K2, P2 Ribbing

Building Blocks: Hats Courtney Kelley

Stitch Patterns

Hat B / Ribbed Brim

Directions

Work in K2, P2 Ribbing for 2.5” (6.5 cm).

K2, P2 RIBBING (in the rnd over a mult of 4 + 4): Row 1 (RS): K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to 1 st rem, k1. Rep Rnd 1 for patt.

Hat A / Roll Brim Hat

Brim: Using smaller ndls, CO 72 (76, 80, 84) sts. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. PM indicating beg of rnd.

Body: Change to larger ndls.

Work in St st for 1.5” (4 cm).

Begin Crown Decreases: Rnd 1: *K16 (17, 18, 19), k2tog, PM; rep from * around – 68 (72, 76, 80) sts. Rnd 2: *K to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slm; rep from * around – 64 (68, 72, 76) sts. Rnd 3: *K to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slm; rep from * around – 4 sts dec’d.

Body: Change to larger ndls. Continue in St st until hat meas 8” (20.5 cm) from CO edge. Begin Crown Decreases: Rnd 1: *K16 (17, 18, 19), k2tog, PM; rep from * around – 68 (72, 76, 80) sts. Rnd 2: *K to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slm; rep from * around – 64 (68, 72, 76) sts. Rnd 3: *K to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slm; rep from * around – 4 sts dec’d.

Work in St st until hat meas 8” (20.5 cm) from CO edge.

Repeat Rnd 3, decreasing 4 sts each round, until 12 sts remain. Finishing: Break yarn, thread through live sts and fasten off. Weave in ends. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements. Pompon (optional): Using remaining yarn, make a large pompon and attach to top of hat.

Measuring Note

When calculating the length of your knitted piece, we highly recommend you count rounds, not inches. To do this, you’ll need to know your rounds per inch after blocking. For this hat, the rounds per inch in stockinette are given as 6.5, so 8” of stockinette would be 6.5 x 8 = 52 rounds. Don’t forget to use your blocked gauge to calculate the proper number of rounds! For more information, visit our tips and tricks here: kelbournewoolens.com/ tips-and-tricks/counting-rows.

Building Blocks: Hats Courtney Kelley

Hat C / Ribbed Hat

Brim: Using smaller ndls, CO 80 sts. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. PM indicating beg of rnd. Work in K2, P2 Ribbing for 2.5” (6.5 cm). Body: Change to larger ndls. Continue in K2, P2 Ribbing until hat meas 8” (20.5 cm) from CO edge. Begin Crown Decreases: Rnd 1: *K1, p2, (k2, p2) 3x, k2, p1, k2tog, pm; rep from * around – 76 sts. Rnd 2: *K1, p2, (k2, p2) 3x, k2, k2tog, slm; rep from * around – 72 sts. Rnd 3: *Work in patt as set to 2 sts before m, k2tog, slm; rep from * around – 4 sts dec’d.

Decreasing in Pattern

You may have noticed that the Ribbed Hat C is only written for one size. Why is that? Math and aesthetics is the answer! When decreasing in a pattern, in order for your work to look it’s best, you want to place your decreases strategically. In the case of this hat, we want the k2tog to happen on two stitches, the first of which is a purl, followed by a knit. When the k2tog is worked, the knit stitch of the k2tog will lay on top of the purl, hiding it, and maintaining a constant knit stitch that runs up the decrease line. In order for this to happen perfectly four times around, the total number of stitches cast on and the number of stitches within each of the four crown segments must be divisible by 4. This only works for the third size of Hats A and B.

It would also work for a total cast on number of 64 or 96:

Rep Rnd 3, decreasing 4 sts each round, until 12 sts remain.

64 is divisible by 4 16 times, which would mean you had 16 stitches within each of 4 crown decrease segments. 16 is divisible by 4 4 times.

Finishing: Break yarn, thread through live sts and fasten off. Weave in ends. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements.

96 is divisible by 4 24 times, which would mean you had 24 stitches within each of 4 crown decrease segments. 24 is divisible by 4 6 times. And, if you know your gauge - which of course you do because you’ve blocked and measured either a previously finished hat or gauge swatch prior to this - you can determine the finished size of your hat: 64 sts/7.25 sts per inch (in pattern) = 8.8” (22.3 cm) unstretched circumference, to fit 64 sts/4.25 (st st gauge) = 15” (38 cm) circumference. 96 sts / 7.25 sts per inch (in pattern) = 13.24” (h33.6 cm) unstretched circumference, to fit 96/4.25 (st st gauge) = 22.5” (57 cm) circumference.

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Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Specifications

YARN Kelbourne Woolens Germantown (100% North American wool; 220 yds/100gm skein). Mitten A / Stockinette Mitten: honey 708, 1 skein. Mitten B / Broken Ribbing: jade 338, 1 skein. Mitten C / Colorwork: rhododendron 609, (MC), and natural 105 (CC), 1 skein each. GAUGE 20 sts + 27 rnds = 4” in St st on larger ndls, after blocking. 20 sts + 27 rnds = 4” in Broken Ribbing on larger ndls, after blocking. 20 sts + 27 rnds = 4” in Stranded colorwork on larger ndls, after blocking. NEEDLES 1 – set US 4 (3.5 mm) DPNs. 1 – set US 6 (4 mm) DPNs. Check your gauge and adjust needle size(s) accordingly if necessary. NOTIONS Stitch markers, darning needle. Mitten C / Waste yarn. SIZE 7.25” (18.5 cm) hand circumference. Mittens A and B /10.5” (26.75 cm) length. Mitten C / 10.75” (27.5 cm) length. SKILLS Mittens A and B / Knitting, purling, increasing, decreasing. Mitten C / Knitting, purling, decreasing, stranded colorwork from charts.

Worthy of Note

This building blocks pattern is designed to be one of the only mitten patterns you’ll ever need! Laid out a little differently than our other Kelbourne Woolens designs, this pattern is a little more word-heavy and breaks down some of the intermediate-level techniques in order to make the knitting easy and enjoyable. The hope is that you not only learn something along the way, you end up with a fabulous pair - or pairs! - of mittens as well. Three versions are designed in order of difficulty: Mitten A is a simple pair of stockinette stitch mittens featuring a K1, P1 Ribbing at the cuff and “sore” thumb construction. Mitten B has the same cuff and thumb construction as Version A, but is worked in a classic broken ribbing pattern. Mitten C kicks it up a notch and features a classic Setesdal inspired stranded colorwork pattern.

There are a few tips and tricks provided in the pattern. They are individually linked throughout and also available at kelbournewoolens.com/knitting-tips-and-tricks.

Abbreviations

beg: beginning CC: contrast color dec’d: decreased DPN(s): double pounted needle(s) LH: left hand k2tog: knit 2 sts together – 1 st dec’d kwise: knitwise m1L: Make 1 left – 1 st inc’d m1R: Make 1 right – 1 st inc’d m1RP: Make 1 right, purlwise – 1 st inc’d m1LP: Make 1 left, purlwise – 1 st inc’d MC: main color mult: multiple ndl(s): needle(s) p2tog: purl two stitches together – 1 st dec’d patt: pattern PM: place marker psso: pass slipped stitch over p/u and k: pick up and knit rep: repeat rnd: round s2kp: sl2 sts kwise, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over – 2 sts dec’d sl1: slip one ssk: slip, slip, knit 2 slipped sts together – 1 st dec’d st(s): stitch(es) St st: Stockinette stitch For a list of other commonly used abbreviations, please visit: kelbournewoolens.com/abbreviations.

Stitch Patterns

K1, P1 RIBBING (in the rnd over a mult of 2): Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * around. Rep Rnd 1 for patt. K1, P1 BROKEN RIBBING (in the rnd over a mult of 2): Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from *around. Rnd 2: K all sts. Rep Rnds 1–2 for patt.

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Mitten 1 Kitchener Stitch Hand Decreases

Top of Hand 3.5” Stockinette

Thumb Decreases Thumb 2” Stockinette

Thumb Increases

Bottom of Hand 1.25” Stockinette

Cuff 2” K1, P1 Ribbing

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Mitten 2 Hand Decreases

Top of Hand 3.5” Broken Ribbing

Thumb Decreases Thumb 2” Broken Ribbing

Thumb Increases

Bottom of Hand 1.25” Broken Ribbing

Cuff 2” K1, P1 Ribbing

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Mitten 3 Kitchener Stitch Hand Decreases

Thumb Decreases Thumb 2” Stockinette Stitch waste yarn placement Hand Stranded Colorwork

Cuff 2” K1, P1 Ribbing

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Directions

Mitten A / Stockinette Mitten

Cuff: Using smaller ndls, CO 36 sts. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. PM indicating beg of rnd. Work in K1, P1 Ribbing for 2” (5 cm). Hand: Change to larger ndls. Work in St st for 1.25” (3 cm). Increase For Thumb: Rnd 1: M1L, k to end – 37 sts. Rnd 2: K all sts. Rnd 3: K all sts. Rnd 4: M1R, k1, m1L, k to end – 39 sts. Rnd 5: K all sts. Rnd 6: K all sts. Rnd 7: M1R, k3, m1L, k to end – 41 sts. Rnd 8: K all sts. Rnd 9: K all sts. Rnd 10: M1R, k5, m1L, k to end – 43 sts. Rnd 11: K all sts. Rnd 12: K all sts. Rnd 13: M1R, k7, m1L, k to end – 45 sts. Rnd 14: K all sts. Rnd 15: K all sts. Rnd 16: M1R, k9, m1L, k to end – 47 sts. Rnd 17: K all sts. Rnd 18: K all sts. Rnd 19: M1R, k11, m1L, k to end – 49 sts. Rnd 20: K all sts. Rnd 21: K all sts. After working Round 21, take a moment to double check your knitting: the increases should create a V, and there should be one even line of stitches to the right of the m1R increases and one even line of stitches to the left of the m1L increases.

Measuring Note

When calculating the length of your knitting, we highly recommend you count rounds, not inches. To do this, you’ll need to know your rounds per inch after blocking. For these mittens, the rounds per inch are given as 6.75, so 3” in stockinette would be 6.75 x 3 = 20 rounds. Don’t forget to use your blocked gauge to calculate the proper number of rounds! For more information, visit our tips and tricks here: kelbournewoolens.com/ tips-and-tricks/counting-rows.

Divide for Hand: Thread approx. 10” of waste yarn onto a darning ndl. Slide the 13 thumb sts off of the LH ndl onto the darning ndl (the stitch created by the final m1R, 11 sts in between the increases, and the stitch created by the final m1L). Readjust the remaining 36 sts so they are evenly divided amongst the DPNs. Using the spare DPN, insert it into the first st on the LH ndl. Pull the working yarn so there are no gaps in between the hand sts, knit 1 rnd. PM indicating beg of rnd. Hand: Work in St st for 3” (7.75 cm). Decrease For Top of Hand: Rnd 1: *Ssk, k14, k2tog, ssk, k14, k2tog – 32 sts. Rnd 2: K all sts. Rnd 3: *Ssk, k12, k2tog, ssk, k12, k2tog – 28 sts. Rnd 4: K all sts. Rnd 5: *Ssk, k10, k2tog, ssk, k10, k2tog – 24 sts. Rnd 6: K all sts. Rnd 7: *Ssk, k8, k2tog, ssk, k8, k2tog – 20 sts. Rnd 8: K all sts. Rnd 9: *Ssk, k6, k2tog, ssk, k6, k2tog – 16 sts. Close Top of Hand: Divide first 8 sts onto 1 DPN, and the other 8 sts onto a 2nd DPN. Put any remaining DPNs aside. Break yarn, leaving a 12” tail. Thread yarn onto a darning needle. Using kitchener stitch (see p. 9), close the top of the mitten hand. Thumb: Remove waste yarn and evenly distribute 13 thumb sts onto DPNs. Join yarn at base of hand and thumb. Rnd 1: K13, p/u and k 1 st at base of hand and thumb – 14 sts. Work in St st until thumb meas 2” (5 cm). Decrease For Top of Thumb: Rnd 1: Ssk, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, k2tog – 10 sts. Rnd 2: Ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog – 6 sts. Rnd 3: (Sl1, k2tog, psso) twice – 2 sts. Break yarn, thread through live sts and fasten off. Finishing: Weave in ends, securing any loose spots at base of thumb. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements.

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Mitten B / Broken Ribbing

Thumb Increases

The stockinette stitch mitten thumb starts with a single increase at the base, while the broken ribbing mitten begins with two increases on either side of a knit stitch. This is to maintain the broken ribbing pattern on the thumb. Additionally, some of the increases have you make a stitch purlwise in order to maintain the pattern. The thumb increases are fully written out. We have placed them inside parentheses to help you keep track of your stitches and increases. Increase for Thumb: Rnd 1: (M1R, k1, m1L), k to end – 38 sts. Rnd 2: (K3), work in patt to end. Rnd 3: (K3), work in patt to end. Rnd 4: (K1, m1RP, k1, m1LP, k1), work in patt to end – 40 sts. Rnd 5: (K5), work in patt to end. Rnd 6: (K1, p1, k1, p1, k1), work in patt to end. Rnd 7: (K1, m1R, k3, m1L, k1), work in patt to end – 42 sts. Rnd 8: (K2, p1, k1, p1, k2), work in patt to end. Rnd 9: (K7), work in patt to end. Rnd 10: (K1, m1RP, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, m1LP, k1), work in patt to end – 44 sts. Rnd 11: (K9), work in patt to end. Rnd 12: (K1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1), work in patt to end. Rnd 13: (K1, m1R, k7, m1L, k1), work in patt to end – 46 sts. Rnd 14: (K2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k2), work in patt to end. Rnd 15: (K11), work in patt to end. Rnd 16: (K1, m1PR, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, m1PL, k1), work in patt to end – 48 sts. Rnd 17: (K13), work in part to end. Rnd 18: (K1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1), work in patt to end.

After working Round 18, take a moment to double check your knitting: the increases should create a V, and there should be one even line of stitches to the right of the m1R increases and one even line of stitches to the left of the m1L increases. Divide for Hand: Thread approx. 10” of waste yarn onto a darning ndl. Slide the 13 thumb sts off of the LH ndl onto the waste yarn (the stitch created by the final m1R, 11 sts in between the increases, and the stitch created by the final m1L). Readjust the remaining 35 sts as necessary so that they are evenly divided amongst the DPNs. Join yarn at base of hand and thumb. You will continue working the hand on the 35 sts that remain on the DPNs. The 13 thumb sts will be worked separately. One stitch will be cast on at the base of the thumb to increase to 36 stitches in order to maintain the broken ribbing pattern. Hand: Rnd 1: Using the backwards loop CO, CO 1 st, work in patt as set to end – 36 sts. Work in Broken Ribbing as set for 3” (7.75 cm), ending after working a Rnd 1 of patt.

Note: You may find it fiddly or difficult to cast on the first stitch of the hand at the beginning of the round.

If this is the case, you may cast on at the end of the round, but remember: this stitch is the first knit stitch of the round, and you must treat it as such in order to maintain the broken rib pattern as set.

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Decrease For Top of Hand: Rnd 1: K1, ssk, k13, k2tog, k1, ssk, k13, k2tog – 32 sts. Rnd 2: K1, p2, work in patt for 11 sts, p2, k1, p2, work in patt for 11 sts, p2. Rnd 3: K1, ssk, k11, k2tog, k1, ssk, k11, k2tog – 28 sts. Rnd 4: K1, p1, work in patt for 11 sts, p1, k1, p1, work in patt for 11 sts, p1. Rnd 5: K1, ssk, k9, k2tog, k1, ssk, k9, k2tog – 24 sts. Rnd 6: K1, p2, work in patt for 7 sts, p2, k1, p2, work in patt for 7 sts, p2. Rnd 7: K1, ssk, k7, k2tog, k1, ssk, k9, k2tog – 20 sts. Rnd 8: K1, p1, work in patt for 7 sts, p1, k1, p1, work in patt for 7 sts, p1. Rnd 9: K1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1, ssk, k5, k2tog – 16 sts. Rnd 10: K1, p2, work in patt for 3 sts, p2, k1, p2, work in patt for 3 sts, p2. Rnd 11: K1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog – 12 sts. Rnd 12: K1, p2tog, p1, p2tog, k1, p2tog, p1, p2tog – 8 sts. Rnd 13: K1, s2kp, k1, s2kp – 4 sts. Break yarn, thread through live sts and fasten off. Thumb: Remove waste yarn and evenly distribute 13 thumb sts onto DPNs. Join yarn at base of thumb. Rnd 1: Work in patt as set, p/u and k 1 st at base of thumb and hand – 14 sts. Work in patt as set until thumb meas 2” (5 cm). Decrease For Top of Thumb: Rnd 1: (Ssk) 7 times – 7 sts. Rnd 2: K1, (ssk) 3 times – 4 sts. Break yarn, thread through live sts and fasten off. Finishing: Weave in ends, securing any loose spots at base of thumb. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements.

Mitten C / Colorwork Mitten

Cuff: Using smaller ndls and MC, CO 36 sts. Join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts. PM indicating beg of rnd. Work in K1, P1 Ribbing for 2” (5 cm).

A Note on The Charts

The Hand Chart is charted using the MC and CC used in the sample. This pattern also includes a chart using a symbol in place of the MC. If your colors differ, or your MC is lighter than your CC, you may elect to color in the symbol chart based on the colors you are using. For a tutorial on working from alternate charts, visit: kelbournewoolens.com/tips-and-tricks/ alternate-colorways. Hand: Begin Working From Chart: Change to larger ndls. Work Rnds 1–31 of Hand Chart. Right Hand Only: Thumb Placement: Rnd 32: K 4 sts in MC, knit 7 sts with waste yarn, slide prev 7 sts back to LH ndl, work in MC as set to end. Left Hand Only: Thumb Placement: Rnd 32: K in MC to 11 sts rem, knit 7 sts with waste yarn, slide prev 7 sts back to LH ndl, k in MC as set to end. Both Hands: Work Rnds 33–50 of Hand Chart. Decrease For Top of Hand: Rnd 1 (CC): *SSK, k14, k2tog, ssk, k14, k2tog – 32 sts. Rnd 2 (MC): K all sts. Rnd 3 (CC): *SSK, k12, k2tog, ssk, k12, k2tog – 28 sts. Rnd 4 (MC): K all sts. Rnd 5 (CC): *SSK, k10, k2tog, ssk, k10, k2tog – 24 sts. Rnd 6 (MC): K all sts. Rnd 7 (CC): *SSK, k8, k2tog, ssk, k8, k2tog – 20 sts. Rnd 8 (MC): K all sts. Rnd 9 (CC): *SSK, k6, k2tog, ssk, k6, k2tog – 16 sts.

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Close Top of Hand: Divide first 8 sts onto 1 DPN, and the other 8 sts onto a 2nd DPN. Put any remaining DPNs aside. Break yarn, leaving a 12” tail. Thread yarn onto a darning needle. Using kitchener stitch (see p.9) and MC, close the top of the mitten hand. THUMB: Unpick waste yarn at thumb. Transfer 7 sts from each end to ndls, divide evenly onto dpns. Join MC yarn at inside of thumb. Rnd 1 (Inc): M1 at side of thumb, k7, m1 at side of thumb, k7 – 16 sts. Rnd 2 (Dec): K2tog, k6, k2tog, k6 – 14 sts. Work in St st until thumb meas 2” (5 cm). Decrease For Top of Thumb: Rnd 1: Ssk, k3, k2tog, ssk, k3, k2tog – 10 sts. Rnd 2: Ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, k2tog – 6 sts. Rnd 3: (Sl1, k2tog, psso) twice – 2 sts. Break yarn, thread through live sts and fasten off.

Useful Tips

For a tutorial on working from charts, visit our Charts Series: kelbournewoolens.com/tips-and-tricks/ working-from-charts For a tutorial on picking up stitches from waste yarn, visit our tutorial here: kelbournewoolens.com/ tips-and-tricks/picking-up-stitches-from-waste-yarn For a tutorial on the kitchener stitch, visit: kelbournewoolens.com/tips-and-tricks/ kitchener-stitch

Chart Key K in MC K in CC Right hand thumb placement Left hand thumb placement

Finishing: Weave in ends, securing any loose spots at base of thumb. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements.

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Hand Chart 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Building Blocks: Mittens Kate Gagnon Osborn

Hand Chart (Alternate) 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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follow us on instagram @kelbournewoolens and show off your projects using the hashtags #kelbournewoolens #KWGermantown #KWBuildingBlocks

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Building Blocks: Scarves Courtney Kelley

Specifications

YARN Kelbourne Woolens Germantown (100% North American wool; 220 yds/100gm skein). Scarf A / Garter Scarf: rhododendron 609, 2 skeins. Scarf B / 2x2 Rib Scarf: navy 410 (MC), 2 skeins, jade 338 (CC), 1 skein. Scarf C / Cabled Scarf: honey 708, 2 skeins. GAUGE 17 sts + 30 rows = 4” (10 cm) in garter stitch, after blocking. 29 sts + 24 rows = 4” (10 cm) in K2, P2 Ribbing, unstretched, after blocking. 22 sts + 22 rows = 4” (10 cm) in cable pattern, after blocking. NEEDLES 1 – US 7 (4.5 mm) 24” (60 cm) circular or pair straights. Check your gauge and adjust needle size(s) accordingly if necessary. NOTIONS Locking stitch markers, darning needle, cable needle. SIZE Scarf A / 8” (20.25 cm) width, 60” (152.5 cm) length. Scarf B / 8.25” (21 cm) width, 60” (152.5 cm) length. Scarf C / 7.25” (18.5 cm) width, 60” (152.5 cm) length. SKILLS Scarf A / Knitting. Scarf B / Knitting, purling. Scarf C / Knitting, purling, basic cables.

Worthy of Note

This Building Blocks pattern is designed to be one of the only scarf patterns you’ll ever need! Laid out a little differently than our other Kelbourne Woolens designs, this pattern is a little more word-heavy and breaks down some of the intermediate-level techniques in order to make the knitting easy and enjoyable. The hope is that you not only learn something along the way, you end up with a fabulous scarf - or scarves - as well! Flats or Circulars? A scarf can be worked on straight needles, or you can use a circular needle and work back and forth. It’s really just a matter of convenience or personal preference. Slipping stitches: To keep a tidy edge to your work, slip the first stitch of every row without knitting it. Slip the stitch as if to purl, with your working yarn in front. For scarf A and C you will then move the yarn to the back of the work between the points of your needles. For Scarf B you will keep the yarn in front to purl on WS rows. Cabling Front vs. Back (Left vs. Right): Some patterns

use “front” or “back” to describe a cable direction, and some use “left” or “right.” Front and back describes the action you must take as a knitter, and left and right describe the direction in which the cable leans. For a “front” / “left” cable you hold the stitches to be twisted to the front, and then work them so that the cable leans to the left. For a “back” / “right” cable you hold the stitches to be cabled to the back, and then work them so that the cable leans to the right. There are a few tips and tricks provided in the pattern. They are individually linked throughout and also available at kelbournewoolens.com/knitting-tips-and-tricks.

Abbreviations

C2/2R: Slip 2 sts to cn, hold back, k2; k2 from cn C2/2L: Slip 2 sts to cn, hold front, k2; k2 from cn CC: contrast color cn: cable needle CO: cast on MC: main color mult: multiple ndl(s): needle(s) patt: pattern rem: remain rep: repeat Sl1: slip one st(s): stitch(es) St st: Stockinette stitch wyif: with yarn in front wyib: with yarn in back For a list of other commonly used abbreviations, please visit: kelbournewoolens.com/abbreviations.

Useful Tips

For a tutorial on swatching and measuring gauge over a cable pattern, visit: kelbournewoolens.com/ tips-and-tricks/swatching-in-cable-pattern For a tutorial on working from charts, visit our Charts Series: kelbournewoolens.com/tips-and-tricks/ working-from-charts For a tutorial on cabling without a cable needle, visit: kelbournewoolens.com/tips-and-tricks/ cabling-without-a-cable-needle

Building Blocks: Scarves Courtney Kelley

Scarf A / Garter Scarf - Slipped stitch edge

Scarf B / Ribbed Scarf - Slipped stitch edge - Stripes

Scarf C / Cabled Scarf

- Slipped stitch edge - Garter Border - Written or Charted instructions

Building Blocks: Scarves Courtney Kelley

Measuring Note

When calculating the length of your knitted piece, we highly recommend you count rows, not inches. To do this, you’ll need to know your rows per inch after blocking. For example, the rows per inch in Garter stitch are given as 7.5, so 60” of Garter stitch would be 7.5 x 60 = 450 rows. Don’t forget to use your blocked gauge to calculate the proper number of rows! For more information, visit our tips and tricks here: kelbournewoolens.com/ tips-and-tricks/counting-rows

Stitch Patterns

GARTER STITCH (Flat): Row 1: Sl1 wyif as if to purl, k to end. Rep Row 1 for patt. K2, P2 RIBBING (Flat over a mult of 4 + 8): Row 1 (RS): Sl1wyif, k1, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to 5 sts rem, k2, p1, k1, p1. Row 2 (WS): Sl1wyib, p1, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to 5 sts rem, p2, k1, p1, k1. Rep Rows 1–2 for patt. CABLE PATTERN (Flat over a mult of 12 + 10): Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k3, *p2, k4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, p2, k4. Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k3, *k2, p4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, k6. Row 3: Sl1, k3, *p2, k4, p2, C2/2L; rep from * to 12 sts rem, p2, k4, p2, k4. Row 4: Sl1, k3, *k2, p4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, k6. Row 5: Sl1, k3, *p2, k4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, p2, k4. Row 6: Sl1, k3, *k2, p4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, k6. Row 7: Sl1, k3, *p2, C2/2R, p2, k4; rep from * to 12 sts rem, p2, C2/2R, p2, k4. Row 8: Sl1, k3, *k2, p4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, k6. Rep Rows 1–8 for patt.

Directions

Scarf A / Garter Scarf CO 34 sts.

Work in Garter Stitch until scarf measures 60” (152.5 cm), or to desired length. BO all sts loosely. FINISHING: Weave in ends. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements.

Why Blocking?

• Immersing your knits fills the fibers with water, opening them up to bloom. They become softer, and smoother. • Wet blocking is washing: your finished object, no matter how hard you try, is dirty once you’ve bound off. Want more proof? I tracked a knit project once, and it went on two airplane trips, spent a night at a hotel, went out to dinner (twice), had an overnight on my couch in our play room (who knows which animal used it as a bed), spent a day loose in my bag, and sat on the front seat of my car. I’d be a fool not to want to wash it! • Knitting is a continuous strand of yarn, and blocking evens it all out - it “takes” some length from where you knit too loose, and “gives” it to a place where you knit too tightly. Do not take this to mean it fixes mistakes - it will not! - but it does make all of your stitches look even. • Stitch patterns need wet blocking to smooth out the stitches to show you the true nature of the design.

Building Blocks: Scarves Courtney Kelley

Scarf B / Ribbed Scarf

Scarf C / Cabled Scarf

Work Rows 1–2 of K2, P2 Ribbing until scarf meas 3.5” (8.5 cm).

Work 6 rows of Garter Stitch.

Stripe Sequence (optional): Change to CC and work 4 rows in pattern. Change to MC and work 6 rows in pattern. Rep prev 10 rows once more.

Set Up For Cable Pattern: Row 1 (Set-up, RS): Sl1, k3, *p2, k4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, p2, k4. Row 2 (WS): Sl1, k3, *k2, p4; rep from * to 6 sts rem, k6.

CO 60 sts.

Change to CC and work 4 rows in pattern. Change to MC. Continue in pattern until piece meas 52” (132 cm). Change to CC and work Stripe Sequence one time more. Change to MC. Work in pattern until scarf measures 60” (152.5 cm). BO all sts loosely in pattern. FINISHING: Weave in ends. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements.

Changing Colors for Stripes

To change colors to work a stripes, cut the working yarn, leaving a 10” tail. Add the new color, also leaving a 10” tail. (The yarn must have a long enough tail to allow you to properly weave the end in after the knitting is finished, otherwise your scarf will unravel!) You will have two tails every time you change a color, one for the old color and one for the new. Alternately, you can carry the yarn up along the side of the work without cutting it. If you opt for this method you will have “floats” up the side of the stripe portion. Tails or floats? Pick your poison! To start knitting with the new color, simply begin knitting. You should never tie a knot in your knitting, as it will create a point of tension that may later break when the knitting is stretched. The new and old yarns will be loose on the joining stitch, but may be tightened up when you weave in your ends.

CO 40 sts.

Written Instructions:

Repeat Rows 1–8 of Cable Pattern until scarf measures 60” (152.5 cm), or to desired length. Work 6 rows in Garter Stitch. BO loosely. Charted Instructions: Work Rows 1–10 of Cable Chart, then repeat Rows 2–10 until scarf measures 60”, or to desired length. Work 6 rows in Garter Stitch. BO loosely. FINISHING: Weave in ends. Soak in cool water and wool wash and block to measurements.

Pattern Repeats

When working from the written instructions on the Cabled Scarf, after working two Set-Up Rows, you then repeat Rows 1–8 of the pattern. These 8 rows are repeated througout the body of the scarf: after working Row 8, you go back to working Row 1 and then work the repeat again. When working from the charted instructions, you will work Rows 1–10 from the chart once, and then repeat Rows 3–10 throughout. Rows 1–2 are Set-Up Rows and are only worked once at the beginning of the scarf. For this pattern, all right side (RS) rows are odd numbered rows, and all wrong side (WS) rows are even numbered rows.

Building Blocks: Scarves Courtney Kelley

Cable Chart 10 9 8 7 6

Pattern Repeat

5 4 3 2 (WS) 1 (RS)

Set-Up Rows

pattern repeat

worked two times

Chart Key Knit on RS, Purl on WS Purl on RS, Knit on WS Slip 1 with yarn in front (as if to purl) C2/2R: Slip 2 sts to cn, hold back, k2; k2 from cn. C2/2L: Slip 2 sts to cn, hold front, k2; k2 from cn.

Working From Charts

When working in flat in rows, if both right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) rows are charted, read RS rows from right to left and WS rows from left to right. When looking at the chart, regardless of whether or not you are working flat or in rounds, the chart is a visual representation of what your knitting looks like from the right side. One of the main differences between Cable Charts versus Knit/Purl or Stranded Colorwork charts is that cable stitches occupy more than one box in the chart. As you can see, the cable stitches are larger than the single Knit or Purl square. The two cables represented in the chart are C2/2R and C2/2L, cable crosses that utilize 4 stitches, so the box occupies the width of 4 stitches. This follows the “one box per stitch” rule of charts. Note: These Cables may also be referred to as C4R, and C4L, or C4B and C4F.

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