John Buchan AGRONOMY LTD

<< I ask about problems they have faced in the vineyard and it is quite a revelation. “We have not suffered from mildew at all,” said Susan. “We had some frost damage in 2020 and are looking at ways to deal with this, possibly a sprinkler system but James would go through the vineyard and light candles if it was desperate.” Talking about predators it becomes clear that Whinyard Rocks suffered a major set back in 2019. Susan makes an excellent storyteller as she said: “We were sitting in the pub in June (a rare moment of time off) and we received a call… sheep from the neighbouring farm (owned by a cousin of James) had got into the vineyard. When we arrived they had eaten everything green on 800 vines. We call it ‘Sheepgate’.”

At this point it becomes very noticeable that the vines are now surrounded by a sturdy looking electric fence. With the situation unsalvageable James and Susan did not panic but looked instead to 2020. “Initially we thought that ‘Sheepgate’ would set us back 12 months but in reality it has been more than that,” and yet even relating this tale does not put a dent in her optimistic spirit adding that as a couple they are even considering the use of the sheep in the vineyard (either as lawnmowers or as controlled leaf strippers) as part of synergy for the farm as a whole. Considering their history with the vines this seems to indicate a very forgiving spirit although in terms of using the sheep to strip leaves at least they have demonstratable proof that the sheep find the leaves palatable. The nearby Radnor Forest is known for Red Kites and during the visit these magnificent birds of prey can be seen flying overhead so it could be assumed that bird predation is not a problem in the area but Susan continued: “In 2020 the Phoenix suffered heavy bird predation so now we net all the vines at the end of September. Every year we are learning a lifetime of knowledge.” This continual learning process has also led to the idea of a green harvest. “The Rondo cropped really heavily in 2021 but in 2022 the vines did not perform quite the same so we are looking at undertaking performing a green harvest in the future to prevent stress to the vines.”

The vineyard also has guest accommodation in the form of Highbrook Cottage, a 16th century cottage which was lovingly renovated by James and Susan during the pandemic. Visitors to the cottage will also be amazed by the amount of history they can find in the area. Medieval, Roman and Bronze Age remains are part of the very fabric of the area. Whinyard Rocks is a formation of Silurian shales from which the inspiration for the name of the vineyard is taken. On a drive up to this unique rocky outcrop Eric Kinsey-Jones (who is the third generation of his family to work the land and father of James) points to a Dewey (an elevation that is between 500m and 610m) called the Whimble on which there is an ancient chieftain buried. “From the top it is possible to see at least six counties,” Eric explained. Perhaps this is the reason it was chosen as a final resting place. There can be no argument that the scenery is breath taking and Susan and Eric talk about coming to this beautiful spot to collect winberries (wild blueberries) that find their way into pies made by James’ mum Olwen and also into gin which both sound fabulous. Susan again points to this as something that the vineyard could incorporate into its future offerings.

Conversation turns to the wine which like the vineyard is made in a manner which is low intervention. The wines are made by Mark Smith at Black Mountain Vineyard after Susan and Laura (Mark’s wife) << met while both taking their children for medical appointments. To their surprise they both had vineyards and now Whinyard Rocks has a great collaboration with a winemaker who shares their natural, low intervention values. There are currently two wines, a Pet Nat which is 70% Solaris and 30% Ortega, along with a sparkling red wine that is 100% Rondo called Col Rondo (“James loves a play on words,” said Susan smiling) made using the Italian ancestral method (Col Fondo) being re-fermented in the bottle. Using wild ferment with indigenous yeasts and with the bottling processes in the winery undertaken by hand, sealed with a crown cap these wines receive no added sulphur and do not undergo fining or filtration. These natural wines are aimed at younger consumers who are interested in exploring the wine world.

There is a growing market for natural wines and they also have a lower alcohol content than a lot of other wines on the market.

“Our neighbourhood near the Elephant and Castle, London had a natural wine bar,” Susan explained.

The branding of the bottles suggests a younger market and the QR code on the bottle leads those drinking to a music playlist that fits with the feel of the wine. James and Susan are passionate about the wines they make and their chosen method of production yet Susan makes clear: “We are not trying to compete with the south east of England.” Visits to the vineyard commence this summer and it will be nice for visitors to enjoy these wines in their ‘natural’ surroundings. The whole experience will give (those who want to) an opportunity to find fun in life.

Susan has an art history degree and has put her skills into creating a playful colour scheme for the labels. The two labels are very different and it becomes clear that whilst they are both from Whinyard Rocks they are both telling their own story. The essence of natural wine is that each bottle has it’s very own unique sense of expression and Whinyard Rocks carry that principle through to their label design. Whinyard Rocks is a place of planned progression and later in 2023 a traditional method low intervention wine made with Phoenix will be released also a still red that incorporates the Regent grape. The future is looking very full for the Kinsey-Jones family.

As the visit comes to a close Susan returns to her storytelling and tells me that legend has it that the last dragon in wales sleeps in the nearby Radnor Forest – perhaps he would like to share a bottle…