In conversation...

Natural Winemaker Mark Smith of Black Mountain Vineyard, Herefordshire talks to Vineyard magazine and gives his thoughts on the challenges and benefits of being a natural wine maker.

Why have you chosen to make wines in a natural way?

Making the wine in a natural/low input way has really evolved over five or six years. We started off making Traditional Method from 2013 up until 2017, this was made with low additions of sulphur (usually below 20ppm total sulphur dioxide for the finished wine) This wasn't really something I set out to do but the wines natural acidity and careful ageing meant I didn't really feel I needed to keep making additions. I also have a friend who is allergic to sulphur and doesn't really drink wine for that reason, he did try a glass of our wine with no reaction which I guess started me thinking about what goes into a bottle. From there I started discovering styles like Pet Nat/Col Fondo and skin contact. This thinking was also applied to the vineyard so I started organic conversion in 2018 and have since been working on lots of different techniques to improve the site and soil. In 2018 I also had a really good crop which gave me a bit more freedom to try some of these styles which I found really enjoyable. I've ended up focusing on Col Fondo style as it allows me to age the base wines. I like to blend more classic varieties i.e. Pinot Noir/Meunier with skin fermented wines made from Solaris and Siegerrebe. This base wine is then bottled with fermenting must from the next vintage to provide a natural fizz.

As the winemaker experienced what challenges and rewards have you expeienced?

There are challenges in the winery at times. You have less control when working with spontaneous fermentation. This vintage many of the ferments were rapid which can lead to undesirable flavours. I've found that racking during the fermentation helps this as well as letting the ferment finish and then adding in some fermenting must. Fermentation is great at cleaning things up. Also giving wines time, this is probably the biggest mind shift for me, not looking for the thing that will fix the problem quickly anymore. Trusting what I'm doing and so far, everything has come through (though this isn't always easy!)

For me, I think the wines I make now represent the grapes better, through improved flavour and balance, which is very rewarding. However, there are many factors in this like vine age and weather to be considered. I still have a long way to go to get the vineyard where I want it to be which is one of the most challenging aspects as it takes time to improve soil, though it is enjoyable. In the last year I found Korean natural farming which I've loved implementing. This method of farming allows me to create many inputs for the vineyard from the local biology and nature. The hope is that I'm able to bring in greater plant, insect and animal diversity and lowering environmental impact. It's a work in progress!

What are your thoughts on the increase in natural wines both from a global point of view and also for English and Welsh wines in the UK?

I hope that the natural/organic/low input wine movement is something that can have a positive impact on the environment and I think it is a great vehicle for small producers to tell the story behind the piece of land that they farm or the growers they work with. Personally, I find it very exciting to see vineyards with life and diversity and have found that people really engage with it. I rent my piece of land on a 25-year lease, one of my main aims is that I improve it for the next person who farms it. I hope it can continue to grow in the UK, I think producing grapes that are naturally high in acidity can lend itself well to this style of winemaking.