Beach hut life in Dorset

10 best...

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS

One of the advantages of moving to the coast is the availability of great seafood. Here are some of coast readers’ favourite sustainable seafood restaurants – all of which have previously won or been nominated for awards – to whet your appetite further for a move…

WORDS MADELEINE BARBER

FOR... A WINNING COMBO

1The Old Boat House, Amble, Northumberland The Old Boat House was crowned Coastal Fish Restaurant of the Year in the 2016 and 2017 Fishing News Awards for its dedication to sustainability and skilfully created seafood dishes. ‘It’s a massive privilege to see that the public have voted for what we’ve created,’ owner Martin said. It is located on Amble Harbour and serves seafood straight from the boats. Some dishes have an Italian twist, like The Boat House Seafood home-made wood-fired pizza, others are traditional – New England-style chowder and classic fish and chips with mushy peas. A worthy winner – and it’s going from strength to strength. Open seven days a week, 10am-9pm, kitchen open from 12 noon (01665 711232, boathousefoodgroup.co.uk/the-old-boathouse-amble).

FOR... A HIGHLAND SHACK

2Kishorn Seafood Bar,

Strathcarron, Ross-shire

This blue shack on Loch Kishorn has been popular with tourists and locals for more than 20 years. Shellfish is sourced using sustainable methods of production and capture, so crabs oysters, mussels, prawns, scallops, squats and lobster can be enjoyed carefree. The quirky house specialty is hand-dived local scallops fried gently in fresh garlic butter, served with a hot croissant. Open daily 12-6pm, Sundays 12-4pm. July/August also open Mon-Fri evenings till 9pm (01520 733240, kishornseafoodbar.co.uk).

FOR... A DAILY MENU

3Longsands Fish Kitchen,

Tynemouth, North Shields

As a member of the National Federation of Fish Friers, award-winning Longsands Fish Kitchen has sustainability at its core, sourcing seafood from waters where stocks are rising. The menu changes according to what local fishermen land each day. As well as mouthwatering fish and chips, you might find a prawn and monkfish coconut curry, or a spicy shrimp burger. There is also a kids’ and takeaway menu, and gluten-free options. Open six days a week from 11.30am till late, closed Tues (0191 2728552, longsandsfishkitchen.com).

FOR... CREATIVE TYPES

4The Magpie Café, Whitby, North Yorkshire There is always a queue at this black-and-white Whitby icon, but the fine fish dishes are worth the wait. Another award winner (Coastal Fish Restaurant of the Year in the 2018 Fishing News Awards), popular sellers are seafood chowder and fish and chips with choices from cod, haddock and skate to halibut and monkfish. Feeling creative? Make your own grilled or poached fish platter from a smorgasbord of delicious seafood and sides. All fish is sourced under the Fully Documented Fisheries scheme. Open daily 11.30am-9pm, see online for one-off changes (01947 602058, magpiecafe.co.uk).

FOR... A CHARITABLE MEAL

5Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, Port Isaac, Cornwall Michelin-starred Nathan Outlaw has brought us his Fish Kitchen with sustainability and charity in mind – produce is purchased from local boats certified by the Responsible Fishing Scheme and local suppliers, plus a discretionary £2.50 donation goes on each bill for Port Isaac RNLI. He offers a simple menu of small plates, such as crispy ling with chilli jam, smoked mackerel dip with cucumber and sourdough toast, and gurnard ceviche with sweet potato, and soured cream. Open Tues-Sat, lunch 12-3pm, dinner 6-9pm, check the website for winter hours (01208 881183, nathan-outlaw.com/restaurants/outlaws-fish-kitchen).

FOR... A UNIQUE LOCATION

6River Exe Café, Exmouth, Devon The River Exe Café floats in the centre of its eponymous river and is accessed via the Puffin water taxi from Exmouth Marina. Local fishermen work in the waters around the café, delivering directly to the kitchen. The menu’s mussels even grow directly beneath diners’ feet! This award-winning shellfish comes in a choice of six exciting flavours: classic moules marinière, Devon cider and smoked bacon, fennel and Pernod, Spanish chorizo and tomato, Thai green curry, and Caribbean curry. The ‘gastro shed’ also serves sharing platters with fish, plus local crab, clams and scallops. Oh, and the views are as spectacular as the food. Open 12-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 12-8.30pm Sun, subject to weather (07761 116103, riverexecafe.com).

FOR... CELEBRITY STATUS

7HIX Oyster And Fish House,

Lyme Regis, Dorset

The HIX Oyster and Fish House is one of half a dozen restaurants by celebrity chef Mark Hix. Overlooking Lyme Regis harbour, menus change daily and offer locally fished and foraged produce. Start with Portland crab or Fowey mussels, then try Torbay huss curry, fish steaks and fillets, whole Lyme Bay lobsters, or a range of grilled fish on the bone. Reservations are essential. Open daily, 12-10pm (01297 446910, hixrestaurants.co.uk/ restaurant/hix-oyster-fish-house).

FOR... MODERN TRENDS

8The Salt Room, Brighton, Sussex Going strong since 2015, The Salt Room in Brighton champions sustainable, local seafood and meat, and encourages sharing plates like nearby sister restaurant, The Coal Shed. The menu is tantalising, with great dishes including skate, gurnard, stone bass and a Surf Board for two, made up of hot fruits of the sea. There are also veggie options. Open daily for lunch 12-4pm, dinner 6-10pm and until 10.30pm Fri-Sat (01273 929488, saltroom-restaurant.co.uk).

FOR... FRIENDLY VIBES

9Rockfish, Various, Devon There are five Mitch Tonks Rockfish restaurants around Devon in Dartmouth, Plymouth, Torquay, Brixham, Exeter and Exmouth – all as respected and deserving of accolades as each other – as well as one planned for Poole in Dorset this summer. Cod and haddock are fished in MSC-certified waters and fresh produce is bought daily at Brixham’s fish market, where Rockfish finds over 30 species to offer to its customers. Traditional fish and chips are permanently on offer, along with such melt-in-the-mouth treats as crispy king prawns tacos, roasted half-shell scallops and spider crab croquettes. Open daily 12-9.30pm, plus a takeaway breakfast service at certain locations, Mon-Fri, 8-11am (therockfish.co.uk).

FOR... A FAMILY AFFAIR

10Café Fish, Tobermory, Scotland This eatery, pioneered by cousins Jane Gill and Liz McGougan, has been serving freshly cooked seafood since 2004. Views over Tobermory Bay towards the Sound of Mull make a mighty backdrop, and diners may spot Café Fish’s own boat – The Highlander – landing Mull langoustines and lobster, which it does daily. Also on the menu, all landed locally, are monkfish, hake, halibut, squid and mussels from nearby Inverlussa. Open daily from Mar-Oct, 11am-3pm and 5.30-10pm (01688 301253, thecafefish.com).