Cuba: beyond Havana

Though best known for its rum and its wonderful 1950s motor cars, Cuba has many other treasures in store. But to find them, you need to take your time and stray off the beaten track. Nothing could be better than a road trip to discover the country's captivating Spanish-influenced architecture, its beaches of fine sand, and places of historical importance, meeting cheerful, welcoming people along the way. Come with us as we make our carefree way around the largest island in the Caribbean.

Cuban dancing on the patio of the Quince-Catorce restaurant-museum in Trinidad, a fine example of the country's 16th century colonial architecture.

From vibrant Havana to the mellow coral islands, a trip to uncover Cuba's soul.

BY ANTOINE GAUVIN

The sun is sinking, setting ablaze the cheerful façades of Old Havana. The sign of Floridita lights up to greet passers-by. This legendary bar where Hemingway had his own table still serves the best daiquiris in Cuba. Candy-coloured 1950s Dodge sedans with gleaming chrome trims are parked in front. Opposite, the restored façade of Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski is brightly lit. This is where we start our road trip across the fascinating land of mambo and salsa. The island, with its mix of cultures and its gentle lifestyle, is 1,200 km long. We're heading for Cayo Guillermo, a small coral island north of the mainland where there's a new Kempinski hotel, a relaxed resort amid white sand beaches, turquoise sea and pink flamingoes.

No one comes to Havana without taking a ride in a Cadillac convertible. Cuba's 1950s American cars have been granted ‘national monument’ status. Incredibly well maintained, they are now one of Cuba's landmarks.

The Neo-Classical Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes dating from 1913 (above) and the 1915 Neo-Baroque Gran Teatro de La Habana are two of Havana's most emblematic buildings. They embody the capital's past wealth and cultural life.

BAY OF PIGS

Our first stop, on the way to the Bay of Pigs, is Ciénaga de Zapata, the island's largest nature park. This gigantic maze of mangroves between land and sea is a paradise for tropical birds. The landscape has probably not changed since Christopher Columbus landed not far away in 1494. There's mystery beauty, and adventure too: the park is home to Cuba's impressive nine feet long crocodiles, which stare at you with yellow eyes. The Bay of Pigs is not just a landmark of Cuban history, it's also sheer heaven for snorkelling and diving. The seabed here is magnificent, with thousands of fish darting around the corals in an endless ballet of phosphorescent colours. We pick one of the many spots along the bay to pause our journey long enough to explore beneath the waves of the Caribbean. Deep blue sky, music, cocktails – bliss! This is Cuba, gentle and full of joy, calm yet buzzing.

The Bay of Pigs, a famous site in the Cuban revolution, is now a peaceful place for swimming, fishing and enjoying life. Snorkelling places like this one, Caleta Buena, with its fine natural swimming pool, are very popular.

CIENFUEGOS

Further along we find Cienfuegos, the 'pearl of the south', tucked away in a tranquil bay, replete with opulent mansions that tell the rich tale of Cuba's sugar trade. One of the most iconic is the astonishing Palacio de Valle, a 19th-century architectural folly mixing Gothic, Venetian and Moorish styles. If you take the small hidden staircase behind the Neo-Moorish arcade, a surprise awaits: a splendid terrace café serving welcome refreshments. Cienfuegos's historic centre, with its Neo-Classical colonnades, has UNESCO World Heritage status. Next morning, before leaving, we visit the botanical garden, one of the largest in Latin America. It is home to nearly 200 species of palm and cactus, and banyan trees with their aerial roots encroaching on the surrounding space.

The Palacio de Valle is typical of Cienfuegos's early 20th-century architecture. An astonishing mix of Moorish, Spanish, Venetian and Gothic elements, it’s been a private home, a casino and a restaurant. All the building materials – marble, alabaster, ceramics, ironwork and forgings – were shipped from Europe.

TRINIDAD

Our second overnight stop is Trinidad, our favourite Cuban town and the third UNESCO World Heritage site in Cuba after Havana and Cienfuegos. Time travelling again!

In Trinidad, time has stopped. This delightful town halfway along the south coast has retained all its 18th-century elegance. In the town's central square, Plaza Mayor, the 19th-century street lighting still works.

Cuba's decades of isolation have enabled it to preserve its old-time style. The streets are still paved with river cobbles and the large central porches of the townhouses still lead straight into living rooms. Here, there's no strict boundary between indoors and out; people exchange greetings between home and street and the two tall windows typical of Trinidad's houses are wide open day and night.

The Santisima Trinidad parish church in Trinidad houses an 18th-century wooden statue made in Barcelona. It was originally intended for a church in Mexico, but the ship that carried it was driven onto the shore here by a gale. Local people saw this as a sign from heaven and the statue is greatly revered.

When evening falls, lively conversation takes place by the light through the windows and the old street lamps. In this soft and gentle atmosphere, we head for a 16th-century palace that's now a restaurant. The owner has kept all the decor intact, with family portraits and even the precious china and silver cutlery. There's a trio playing 'Son Cubano', music with an African tempo and Spanish influences. A rare and delicious moment.

In Trinidad, bands play everywhere in the evening, and sitting on the steps of the main square is a good place to enjoy a cocktail.

In the early morning, as a cart rattles by, it's time for us to leave and head north. Inland, the countryside is fertile, with the best land still producing the sugar cane that in recent centuries forged the country's history and identity.

Crossing the island to the other side we discover the Jardines del Rey islands, a sanctuary for pink flamingos and royal palms. These coral islands are said to have been the lair of pirates.

Pink flamingoes, their feathers tinted by the quantities of shrimp they eat, are among the many species of bird that inhabit the untamed mangrove swamp.

Thoughts of pirates vanish at the sight of endless white sand beaches, turquoise sea and white egrets perched on old seableached tree trunks. Palm groves add a touch of soft green to the monochrome of sea and sky.

Welcome to Cayo Guillermo, the small unspoilt island where at last we find our final stop, Cayo Guillermo Resort Kempinski. Named after Hemmingway's boat, Playa Pilar is one of Cuba's finest beaches and is right beside the hotel. After this colourful 700 km tour it's time to enjoy the clear, warm water, the music and the authentic kindness of the Cubans. Grilled lobster, glassbottomed boats and idle hours lie ahead.

Cayo Guillermo is one of a string of unspoilt islands off the north coast of Cuba. It can be reached by a 27 km causeway built in 1988.

Cayo Guillermo Resort Kempinski: barefoot Caribbean luxury

The location for our new Cuban paradise was inspired by Ernest Hemingway and his love for the Cayes coral islands. Situated in a vast tropical garden between mangroves, wild palms and beach, Cayo Guillermo Resort Kempinski comprises 222 rooms and 23 suites positioned between huge swimming pools and the ocean. Most of the rooms look out over the water.

The large pool in the resort's tropical garden.

But it’s the resort’s private access to Playa Pilar that makes it a true Caribbean dream. With 500 metres of fine white sand fringed with palm trees, and calm water in myriad shades of turquoise, it’s little wonder that Playa Pilar has been voted one of world’s top 25 best beaches.

There are so many ways to relax here. Go snorkelling, or sip a margarita at Nuevo Floridita - the hotel's beach bar. Take out a glass-bottomed boat and marvel at the fish and corals on the reefs, or tuck into grilled lobster on the little island opposite.

The terrace of the hotel's Nuevo Floridita, a beach bar and restaurant looking out over beach and sea to the far horizon.

If you've chosen one of the resort's seven water villas, resting on the sea in the hidden Punta El Morro bay, you can slip straight from your private jetty into the warm, crystal-clear water. Or maybe you'd rather dive into your private pool with its unobstructed view of the Caribbean Sea. The most impressive of these water villas is the Presidential Suite. Built from exotic wood, it has an infinity pool and a vast bathroom open to the terrace and the horizon.

Cuban luxury reaches new heights with a stay in one of the resort's seven water villas.

Cayo Guillermo Resort Kempinski is an unparalleled experience of barefoot luxury for families, groups of friends, or couples alike. Its host of activities include water sports and shoreline yoga, as well as sommelier masterclasses on Cuba’s famous cigars and rum. And make sure you take a jeep safari through the Loma de Cunagua and the Jardines Del Rey - an archipelago of a dozen interconnected islands where ibis and pink flamingoes thrive.

The resort's spa, tucked away in a secret garden bursting with exotic flowers, is a village within a village. Relax beside the whirlpool or one of the two outdoor pools. Enjoy a massage in the open air, caressed by a warm breeze. Or you can opt for the comfort and luxury of one of the four massage booths.

The resort makes a perfect setting for a romantic wedding, or other celebrations and events, offering indoor and outdoor spaces - including the beach - and a private dining room with stunning views. A dedicated events team will look after all your needs.

The terrace of a water villa, with infinity pool and private jetty.

Lively or laid-back cool; beside the pool or by the beach, the resort’s three restaurants and five bars provide lots of dining options. Of course you’re guaranteed the Kempinski signature of excellent international cuisine that showcases fresh local produce.

Gourmet seafood restaurant El Emperador serves uniquely Cuban dishes à la carte, to be enjoyed indoors or outside in the balmy evening. After dinner, head to Las Dunas Lobby Bar or the Hemmingway Cigar Bar & Lounge to enjoy a glass of 20-year-old rum or a Cuba libre to the sound of live salsa - irresistible Cuban ambience guaranteed.

Far from the hustle and bustle of lively Havana, Cayo Guillermo Resort Kempinski is a secluded retreat where the staff, like Cuba itself, are always friendly and smiling.

The water villas at sunset. Peace and quiet in the private bay of Punta El Morro, at the tip of Cayo Guillermo island.