Uncovering The Beauty Of Oman

A traditional dhow off Telegraph Island. These wooden Arab sailboats are typical of the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, and the Oman Gulf.

05 | TRAVELLING IN THE MIDDLE EAST

UNCOVERING THE BEAUTY OF OMAN

What greater contrast can there be than to leave Dubai's modern tower blocks, travel back in time, and contemplate eternally unchanging landscapes from the top of a majestic mountain? A few hours' drive, and you cross the border into Oman where you’ll discover sensational fjords and canyons, and villages where the ancient traditions of hospitality and kindness live on. It's an unmissable journey into beauty.

Separated from Oman and the United Arab Emirates by the 2,087m high mountains of Jebel Harim, the small peninsula of Musandam has just 50km of sea between it and Iran. You might think the fjords were created by glacial history but this geology is the result of tectonic activity between the Arabian plate sinking under the Eurasian plate. The valleys of the peninsula have been gradually engulfed by the sea, creating a jagged coastline. *An all-terrain photojournalist for 25 years, Franck Charton specialises in ethno, adventure and travel photography.

Between action and contemplation - a journey into beauty

BY FRANCK CHARTON*

We left Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates an hour and a half ago, and after crossing the small Emirate of Ras al-Khaimah, we arrive at the Sultanate of Oman border. Dubai’s 21st century skyline is already a far-away mirage in the rear-view mirror of our Land Cruiser. The desert has given way to a tangle of rocky mountains, hemmed by fjords, fishing villages and heavenly lagoons. The Musandam Peninsula, a little-known pearl of the Sultanate of Oman, remains a sanctuary of peace on the edge of the Strait of Hormuz. It is a concentrate of raw beauty in one of the most strategic areas on the planet, through which much of the world's oil passes. At the port of Khasab, we board a traditional wooden boat known as a dhow and set out for a day of exploring. As we pass by sparkling creeks, to the faint roar of the boat’s engine, we have no other agenda than to admire the atmospheric landscape. Suddenly, three dolphins leap towards the boat. Small and bluish grey, they play happily alongside the hull – they look as though they are showing off. We join the crew and greet them with whistles and applause! As we anchor in a wild cove of Sibi Bay, our programme for the rest of the day is swimming, climbing the golden rocks, and snorkelling. We spend hours there, diving from the stern, searching for unusual and colourful fish, and exploring nearby coves. Surrounded by inaccessible peaks and cliffs streaked with scarlet veins, and with cathedral-like silence, the rest of the world seems far away. From Khasab we decide to take a plane to Muscat, the sprawling cosmopolitan capital of the Sultanate. Not far from the city, in the small coastal town of Al Mouj, sumptuous Kempinski Hotel

In Khasab, the 17th century Portuguese fort still stands with its high walls and period cannons. Today it is a charming museum.

Muscat, which encompasses over six kilometres of stunning coastline, is the perfect stopover before the next stage of our adventure. Here we experience the true taste of Arabia, before taking to the road again. Our destination: the Hajar. Crossing the entire north of the country, this mountain range is its secret heart. A kaleidoscope of harsh reliefs, it cuts into canyons where oasis villages cling to their quiet way of life and where adobe forts bear witness to bygone eras. Everywhere, behind cliffs, are secret wadis which reveal translucent pools and intricate networks of traditional irrigation channels called the aflaj. Dating back more than 1,500 years, the aflaj network has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The winding road first climbs the Jebel Shams, the highest point of the Hajar at 3,048m. From the plateau, a chasm, known as the Omani Grand Canyon, opens up 1,500m below. Further on, we stop at Nizwa, several times Oman’s capital, and stronghold of the hill tribes. Nowadays it’s famous for its cattle fair which takes place in the sprawling souk under a huge fort crowned with a circular tower. Our last adventure on Jebel Akhdar is the ‘green mountain’ where terraced fields tumble down its sides, houses huddle against each other and the light seems coppery, almost unreal. In April, the slopes are tinged with pink and the air fills with the delicate but highly concentrated fragrance of Damascus roses. They are gathered then distilled to extract their precious essential oil which, as it has been for centuries, will be used in perfumes, cosmetics and jams. All too soon, it's time to leave these small, traditional villages and the legendary kindness of their inhabitants, and return to Muscat and modernity.

Dhow make daily trips in the Musandam peninsula fjords, anchoring in remote coves.

The city is the coastal outlet of a large wadi where the waterfront palm groves had become prosperous due to the accumulation of sediments deposited by floods.

Swimming, sea kayaking, snorkelling, and dolphin spotting are part of the daily programme, amongst landscapes reminiscent of Japanese watercolours.

Not long ago, it took a six-hour trek to reach the Jebel Akhdar. Today, the road remains so steep that only 4x4s can tackle it. Bahia Fortress is surrounded by mystery and legend. At 3,000 years old, it is also the oldest building in Oman, and a registered UNESCO World Heritage site. April is the favourite month to pick rose flowers on the high terraces of the Sayq plateau. The concentration of fragrance has been celebrated since antiquity and local villagers still extract the essential oil through an elaborate distillation system. It is estimated that 10 to 12 tons of flowers are needed to produce 1kg of essential oil. On the cliffside, the delightful ‘Trail of the Roses’ wanders from village to village. Perched at an altitude of 2,000m are the terraced orchards where thousands of Damascus rosebushes and pomegranate trees grow. Rose water, called ‘attar’ in Arabic, is widely used in Oman to perfume houses, pour on the hands of guests, and to flavour coffee, lemonade, rice and halwa. It is also an important source of income for this isolated region.

All the wadis of Oman have an ingenious watering scheme called the aflaj. One of the world’s oldest irrigation systems, it draws water from underground sources and channels it through a network of gutters and locks. It is circulated by gravity to houses and cultivated land, sometimes far from the source, under the control of the wakil. The old village of Birkat al Mawz, which translates as the ‘banana pool’, clings to the foothills of Jebel Akhdar. In the palm groves, the date palm (phoenix dactylafera) produces up to 120kg of dates, which are exported or consumed on site.

Your 5* Road Trip

with Kempinski

The journey from Kempinski Mall of the Emirates Dubai to Kempinki Hotel Muscat is one of contrasts. It takes you from Dubai’s golden beaches and towering skyscrapers across the border to Oman’s red cliffs, green-tinged mountains and picturesque vistas. Here you can sail around the breathtaking Musandam desert fjords and swim with dolphins. After a stopover in Muscat, explore Oman’s most spectacular area, the Djebel Akhdar, where you’ll find panoramic mountain views, desert canyons, small traditional villages and rose water distilleries. Our hotels provide the anchors for this adventure by road or air, as well as a restful night’s sleep.

Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates Dubai

Located in the heart of Dubai and connected to Mall of the Emirates, the hotel offers spectacular views over Dubai's towering skyline. It's the perfect base to discover everything this vibrant city has to offer, including golden beaches, golf courses, and Dubai’s beautiful parks. Downtown Dubai and Burj Khalifa are also close by. The hotel has several restaurants and bars serving a range of cuisine from authentic Lebanese food to Spanish tapas.

SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD, 120679 DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES KEMPINSKI.COM/DUBAI +971 4 341 0000

Kempinski Hotel Muscat, Sultanate of Oman

In the modern community of Al Mouj, the hotel is an unparalleled luxury beach resort with over six kilometres of stunning coastline. Its eleven world-class restaurants and bars cater for every taste. The captivating ancient walled city of Muscat has a range of natural and cultural sites for visitors to explore. Its more relaxed pace is the perfect contrast to the constant buzz at the start of your road trip journey in Dubai.

P.O. BOX 57, 138 MUSCAT, OMAN KEMPINSKI.COM/MUSCAT +968 24 98 5000

Jebel Shams, known as the ‘mountain of the sun’ is the highest point of the Hajar at 3,048m, and is famous for the view from its summit into the deep canyon that lies alongside it. A panorama of tapering ridges, gorges and eroded tables are outlined against a deep-blue sky. A few shepherd families live here, offering their craft work to visitors.