Fifty Shades of Pink BR E N N A N’ S
ON
ROYAL STREET
CULINARY CONCIERGE T h e Wi n e & D i n e M a g a z i n e - NEW ORLEANS -
Happy Hour
Jazz Brunch
SPRING 2015
plus,Cory Bahr on Louisiana Seafood...Meringue...The Éclair Diaries Recipes...Restaurant Directory...Menu Pages & More
CULINARY CONCIERGE
The Wine & Dine Magazine - NEW ORLEANS -
15
th
Anniversary
2000 - 2015
Celebrating 15 years of serving up the culinary current Kendall Collins Gensler
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF/ PUBLISHER Gene Bourg Lorin Gaudin CONTRIBUTING EDITOR PHOTOGRAPHY Romney Caruso Ron Calamia Jose L. Garcia II
GRAPHIC DESIGN ASSISTANT John Schexnaydre
Published quarterly by Culinary Concepts,LLC a culinary consulting and publishing firm 5500 Prytania Street #437 New Orleans, LA 70115 For advertising and subscription inquiries,
CULINARY CONCIERGE telephone 504.343.2092 www.culinaryconcierge.com staff@culinaryconcierge.com
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CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 |
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take a
taste
New Orleans Spring 2015
TABLE OF CONTENTS 4 In Memoriam
Richard “Dick” J. Brennan, Sr.
6 Pick 6: Happy Hour
8 Birthplace of Jazz Brunch: The Big Over-Easy 12 Fifty Shades of Pink: Brennan’s re-opens on Royal Street
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Louisiana Seafood: Napa - Style Chef Cory Bahr attends CIA Summit
18 Meringue: The ethereal lightness of beating 24 27 30
The Éclair Diaries
Le Meridien Hotel New Orleans
“On The Menu” Pages
RESTAURANT DIRECTORY & MAPS CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 | 3
Richard “ Dick” S. Brennan, Sr.
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In Memoriam On Saturday, March 14, 2015; Richard J. Brennan, Sr. (better known as Dick), passed away after 83 years of living his life to the fullest. "Mr. Dick" was a mentor, visionary restaurateur, leader and statesman. Shortly after graduating from Tulane and marrying Lynne Trist Brennan (his wife of nearly 60 years), Mr. Brennan completed two years of Law School before he enlisted in the Army and was stationed in Augusta, Georgia and Williamsburg, Virginia. When he returned to New Orleans, he intended to finish Law school but his brother, Owen, and both parents passed away within a year of one another, he instead went to work at the family’s restaurant, Brennan’s on Royal Street. With his siblings, he was instrumental in opening Brennan’s in Houston, Dallas and Atlanta, as well as Chez Francis in Metairie, Louisiana, Mr. B’s Bistro and the Friendship House on the Gulf in Mississippi.
In 1973 the Brennan’s split their restaurant interests, and Dick along with his siblings John, Adelaide, Ella and Dottie took control of Commander’s Palace. The New Orleans’ Garden District landmark had faded over the years and the siblings were tasked with reviving the nearly 100-year-old restaurant. Dick Brennan was passionate about New Orleans and America. He recognized the sheer bounty of our region, including ingredients and talent. Instead of European chefs, he hired from the area. Chef Paul Prudhomme and Mr. Dick collaborated on dishes that today have become synonymous with New Orleans cuisine. He walked to work each day from his home on Third St., and each day he passed a pecan tree. He wondered why almonds were used to coat fish and not pecans that were grown locally? From this simple question posed to Chef Prudhomme, pecan crusted fish was born. The same could be said about his taste in spirits. He featured California wine on the list at Commander’s Palace years before this was commonplace. Dan Duckhorn from Duckhorn Wine said that Mr. Brennan believed in him and his product and that he was the first to put it on a wine list. He was well known for saying “If you’re going to drink whiskey, drink American, drink bourbon!” Growing up with this mantra, helped inspire the concept for their restaurant, Bourbon House.
When the Brennan siblings first bought Commander’s, their goal, similar to any new restaurant’s goal, was to bring guests in the door. Breakfast at Brennan’s had been very popular and they wanted to create a similar environment filled with celebration for brunch. It was Dick Brennan who thought that two of New Orleans most valued cultural possessions-- food and Jazz - would make a fantastic marriage as “Jazz Brunch.” The response beat all expectations and that was the beginning of what today is celebrated around New Orleans and throughout the country -- Jazz Brunch. Friend, Chef, and New Orleans restaurant owner Frank Brigtsen recalled, “I learned to sauté under the watchful eyes of Mr. Dick Brennan, who monitored every single plate that left the kitchen for Sunday Jazz Brunch at Commander’s Palace. Not all of my omelets passed muster. “Can we do a little better than that?” he would gently ask. His generous spirit, innate brilliance, and warm heart touched me throughout the years, whether it was a touch of Pernod at his home on Fat Tuesday morning, his winning smile at a special event, or his gracious charm when dining at Brigtsen’s with his lovely wife Lynne. His mark is felt throughout the city of New Orleans, a testament to a life well lived. I am grateful for his friendship.”
Passionate about all things New Orleans, and wanting to share his city’s unique culture with visitors, he was instrumental in creating what today is the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau. He was also the first of his family to be President of the Louisiana Restaurant Association and later served many terms on the National Restaurant Association’s board.
Above all, "Mr. Dick" was a mentor--a mentor to his chidren, his grandchildren, his chefs and countless individuals who proudly donned their black and whites. In an interview with Times Picayune, Emeril Lagasse once said, “You could have no better mentors that Ella and Dick. They are absolutely the best. They are legends. They are masters of the restaurant business.”
His restaurants were an extension of his home, a place where guests came for the complete experience; from food to service, it was a place where everyone felt special. He leaves this legacy, along with so much more, through his children and their restaurants, as well as the several restaurants operated by his extended family--his former employees.
He’ll be deeply missed, but he leaves behind a legacy so profound that his spirit will live on through the beautiful city he called home. It’s only natural to raise a glass and toast in his honor to a life well lived.** * Please note: This is an edited excerpt (for space and 3rd person) of a letter sent to colleagues and friends of Mr. Brennan by his children; Lauren and Dickie. No one can tell his story or salute his life and legacy better than his family. - kcg CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 |
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Pick 6:
Happy Hour
The words "happy" and "hour" have appeared together for centuries when describing pleasant times. One possible origin of the term "Happy Hour," in the sense of a scheduled period of entertainment, is from the United States Navy. In early 1913, a group of "home makers" called the "Happy Hour Social" organized "semi-weekly smokers" on board the U.S.S. Arkansas. The name "Happy Hour Club," "Happy Hour Social Club," and similar variants, had been in use as the names of social clubs, primarily by women's social clubs, since at least the early 1880s. By June 1913, the crew of the USS Arkansas had started referring to their regularly scheduled smokers as "Happy Hours."The "Happy Hours" included a variety of entertainment, including boxing and wrestling matches, music, dancing and movies. By the end of World War I, the practice of holding "Happy Hours" had spread throughout the entire Navy.
The idea of drinking before dinner has its roots in the Prohibition era. When the 18th Amendment and the Volstead Act were passed banning alcohol consumption, people would host "cocktail hours", also known as "happy hours", at a speakeasy (an illegal drinking establishment) before eating at restaurants where alcohol could not be served. Cocktail lounges continued the trend of drinking before dinner. Many Happy Hours in the Crescent City offer opportunities to enjoy discounted, yet delicious food and drink during the early evening hours. Here are some of our favorites...
Th e American Sector
at the WWII Museum
4 - 7 pm Daily 1/2 off Specialty Cocktails, Wine & Beer
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featuring: “Midway” Mule; The Sector Lemonade; Sailor Swizzle; Patton’s Pamplemousse & Buffalo Soldier Snack Specials to include: Bavarian Soft Pretzel Fonduta; Crawfish Boil Fritters & Shrimp “Corn Dogs”
Broussard’s
4 - 7 pm Daily
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$4 Glass Wine Specials $4 Well-Brand Drinks $4 Daily Spring Punch Specials $4 - $7 Imperial Bar Snacks to include: Imperial Nuts; Crispy Shrimp Toast with Creole Tomato Glaze; Red Onion Rings and Assorted Brochettes. “TRADITIONAL L’HEURE VERTE” 5 - 7 pm Daily An Absinthe Happy Hour within Happy Hour featuring absinthes from Switzerland, France and the United States.
At left: B ubb le s a t B rennan’s
At r ig ht : Ba lc ony a t Tableau
Brennan’s
2 - 7 pm Tuesday - Friday
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Select bubbles from both top Champagne vintners and premiere sparkling wine houses at the fizziest hours of the day. In Courtyard and Roost Bar plus, Friday Breakfast & Lunch in the Dining Room
Bar Snacks: Crispy Creole-Spiced Black-Eyed Peas, Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, and Lobster Remoulade
Courtyard Champagne Sabering, every Friday 5 pm!
D ic kie Br en nan’s S teakh ou se
5 - 7pm nightly
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$5 Cocktail Specials: Moscow Mule Vodka, lime juice, cognac and ginger beer
French Collins Oryza gin, lemon juice, cassis, orange bitter cherries
$5 Savory Small Plates to include: Foie Truffle Fries, Blue Crab Beignets, and Shrimp Remoulade Lettuce Wraps
Palace Café
5 - 7pm nightly
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$5 after 5pm Cocktails & Wine House Mixers: Any house brand liquor with your favorite mixer on ice House Wines: Chardonnay, Cabernet or Sparkling Wine Liqueur Café: Coffee & sugar with a choice of liqueur: Kahlua, Amaretto, Godiva, Chambord, Cherry, Praline, Cointreau, Drambuie, Southern Comfort Selection of Savory Small Plates
Tableau
3 - 7pm daily
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$6 Small Plates; 1/2 off beer and wine on tap $5 select cocktails: Dark and Stormy, Bee’s Knees, Cuba Libre, French 75 In the Bars, Balcony & Courtyard Live music on Friday and Saturday
Birthplace of Jazz Brunch: gene bourg on the beloved tradition of the mid- morning meal
“When the Brennan siblings first bought Commander’s Palace, their goal, similar to any new restaurant’s goal, was to bring guests in the door. Breakfast at Brennan’s had been very popular and they wanted to create a similar environment filled with celebration for brunch. It was Dick Brennan who thought that two of New Orleans most valued cultural possessions – food and Jazz - would make a fantastic marriage as “Jazz Brunch.” The response beat all expectations and that was the beginning of what today is celebrated around New Orleans and throughout the country – Jazz Brunch.”
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The Big Over-Easy The late-morning repast we call brunch has been in vogue for a hundred years. So why isn’t there a late-afternoon meal called “lupper”? While the elusive answer to that question lies somewhere in our food psyche, most of us will always find a lot of pleasure in a relaxing hour or two at the table before the clock strikes noon, when our appetites are sharp and we can forgo the usual hurried and predictable early-morning breakfast. Exactly when the brunch custom started is anybody’s guess. But there are a couple of clues as to the how the word itself came about. We have the British to thank for merging “breakfast” and “lunch” into “brunch.” Scholars say the word first appeared in English during the mid-1890s in a couple of periodicals there. It is mentioned in an 1895 article in The Hunter’s Weekly. The August 1, 1896, issue of Punch, the English humor magazine, says that the brunch fad began as a meal taken by the upper classes just after returning to the manor house from the hunt, when the cooks brought out invigorating dishes like shepherd’s pie or finnan haddie (smoked haddock with cream sauce). But New Orleans also can take some credit for starting the brunch tradition. At the same time the Brits were out chasing foxes, a legendary New Orleans cook named Elizabeth Begué was offering meals she called “breakfast” at her namesake restaurant, Begué’s, at the corner of Decatur and Madison streets, across from the old French market. These were the turn-of-the-century days when breakfast for most New Orleanians meant simply buttered bread and a bowl of café au lait, taken shortly after sunrise. But Madame Begué’s belt-busting repasts were served throughout the day, and the dining room was busiest an hour or so before noon, after the French Market’s vendors and freighters had worked up an appetite restocking their stalls, unloading their wares, and handling the crush of the morning’s business. The food at Begué’s was not for timid palates. The day’s menu beckoned to big eaters with calf’s liver with onions, pepper and garlic; omelets with sweetbreads or oysters; spaghetti with shrimp; broiled beefsteak; roast duck; blanquette of veal; crawfish bisque, and floating island with chocolate cream. From the time Elizabeth Begué died in 1906 to the present day, hearty latemorning meals have become part of the fabric of New Orleans’ restaurant culture, as well as a popular vehicle for weekend and holiday entertaining at home. But over the decades the brunches served in restaurants have surpassed the home-style version in New Orleans, for both locals and visitors alike. Live music has raised the festivity level, with strolling jazz groups tooting and strumming, while champagne glasses clink and flamed desserts sizzle. In the family tree of the city’s brunch culture, the granddaddy is Brennan’s Restaurant in the French Quarter. Newly re-opened by Restaurateur Ralph Brennan and Businessman Terry White, the new menu satisfies the public hunger for elaborately sauced poached-egg dishes. The day’s menu may list a half-dozen or more-- including, of course, an Artisanal Eggs Benedict. But local Brennan’s diners usually choose between two of its classics. One is Eggs Sardou, in which the egg rests on an artichoke bottom set into creamed spinach with Hollandaise sauce cascading over everything. The other is Eggs Hussarde, CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 | 9
Eggs a la Créme
is featured on the Brunch Menu at Restaurant R’evolution in the Royal Sonesta Hotel
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which feature housemade English muffins, prosciutto, and both Marchand de Vin and Hollandaise sauces. In the oak-shaded, timeless elegance of the Garden District, the brunch Mecca is Commander’s Palace, whose typical fare stretches from Chicory Coffee Lacquered Quail, Creole Crawfish Frittata, and Cochon De Lait Eggs Benedict to Louisiana Shrimp & Grits. The brunch fare at Brennan’s and Commander’s represents a small fraction of the options at New Orleans restaurants. Palace Café gets creative with a savory, pecancrusted crabmeat cheesecake, a pan roast of oysters in herbed breadcrumbs and rosemary cream, and a Surf and Turf Benedict featuring a Seared Petite Filet, Abita Barbecue Shrimp, Leidenheimer French Bread Toast, Poached Eggs, and Hollandaise sauce. Sunday is the logical day for the leisurely brunch, just as it’s the most appropriate time for footstomping and hand-clapping along with a gospel choir. You’ll find both the meal and the music at the French Quarter’s House of Blues. Their new Gospel Brunch Experience includes local talent performing both traditional and contemporary Gospel songs personally selected by legendary gospel producer and artist, Kirk Franklin. Before and during the show, HOB serves up an all-youcan-eat buffet featuring breakfast favorites, carving stations, southern specialties and desserts. Rich foods and lively music are not the only New Orleans brunch traditions. Special “eye-opener” cocktails and sparkling wines have a role as well. The morning’s orange juice takes on new identities in the form of screwdrivers and champagne mimosas. Milk, cream and brandy meet in a frothy milk punch sprinkled with nutmeg. And a whipped egg white provides a fine excuse at the beginning of the day for indulging in a silky gin fizz. For many a brunch fan in New Orleans, those are merely starters. The meal’s finale comes with the fascinating ritual surrounding café brûlot—coffee flavored with orange, lemon, cinnamon and clove, and flambéed with brandy at the table. If all of this sounds over-the-top, it nevertheless fits right in with the spirit that has always distinguished the gastronomy of New Orleans, where celebration and self-indulgence are permanent aspects of the lifestyle.
Gene Bourg has been an independent journalist since 1994, when he ended his nine-year tenure as restaurant reviewer for the Times-Picayune in New Orleans. His work has appeared in Saveur and Food & Wine, among others.
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T oa st of the Town
Fifty Shades of Pink: Ralph Brennan and Terry White re-open
Brennan’s
on Royal Street
Top Left: Brennan's signature pink stucco façade retains its original glory. Bottom Left: The Chanteclair Dining Room overlooks the courtyard patio.
Top Right: Brennan’s Executive Chef Slade Rushing presents a modernized menu.
Middle Right: Artisanal Eggs Benedict and Eggs Sardou. Bottom Right: Flambeed Bananas Foster on the courtyard patio at Brennan’s.
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Established in New Orleans in the 1840s, the Irish Channel clan of Brennan's began with the arrival of Ralph Brennan's great grandfather, Owen Brennan, a man admired in the community as a beacon of stewardship and a visionary "dedicated to the art of the enjoyment of eating." Dating from 1795, the building at 417 Royal Street saw a long history of various enterprises before becoming Brennan's in 1956, with its signature pink facade and distinctive cuisine inspiring continual praise and loyal patronage until its doors closed in June 2013. This celebrated icon of the French Quarter has been restored and re-opened in November 2014, emerging as one of the most polished restaurants in New Orleans. Ninth generation New Orleanian and entrepreneur Terry White, and third generation veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan, have set out to continue the legacy of a universally acclaimed establishment dedicated to the pure pleasure of fine dining. The proud heritage of New Orleans, grounded in the French Quarter, has established such a unique cuisine-- principally French, with definite Spanish influence, and contributions from Italian cooking; newfound cultural influences, like Vietnamese, flourish in promising flavors that splash across the plates. The lore of these origins has become the foundation of the menus infused with contemporary precision in the accomplished hands of executive chef Slade Rushing. "Rushing's pedigree and experience will complement his long line of gastronomic forebears in the Brennan's kitchen, but will present a distinctly lighter style that our modern-day guests are sure to appreciate," says Brennan. Breakfast is alive and well at Brennan’s. In keeping with the Brennan’s tradition, there are now two “table d’hote” menus offered: A Classic “Brennan’s” breakfast menu features updated versions of the Baked Apple, Turtle Soup and Eggs Sardou; while the “New Orleans” breakfast offers modern selections such as Egg Yolk Carpaccio and Crispy Veal Cheek Grillades. Additionally, “a la carte” dining is available for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Chef Rushing’s Five-Course Tasting Menu, “Taste of New Orleans Dinner” is available in the evenings and can be presented with wine pairings. Recent offerings included: Japanese Amberjack Crudo; Cucumber & Crab Cannelloni; New Orleans Bbq Lobster; Vadouvan Spiced Black Drum; and Divinity Semifreddo. The present Brennan's sets fine food in a glamorous atmosphere born of the architecture and decor of the French Quarter. Keith Langham, a New York-based southern gentleman renowned for his tasteful designs, embraced the historical landmark's original sensibility, one that beams with charm and inherent culture: "What Keith has done here couldn't be done anywhere else in the world but the French Quarter," states Terry White. Langham notes, "My intent was to create rooms that recognized the past, full of old fashioned Southern elegance, and of course, seasoned with many European influences." The effect is vibrant and fresh, as if you stepped back in time a century or two, into well-dressed rooms redesigned for a fashion-forward inhabitant. Each dining room tells a specific story, engaging you into its own colorful personality. Brennan's signature pink stucco façade retains its original glory; the color has an Old World distinction, says Langham, and it pops up as a light-hearted accent in a number of the re-designed rooms. The exterior has been freshened up with a new coat of Benjamin Moore's serendipitously named "Tomato Cream Sauce;" the trim is called "Mayonnaise" -- naturally! CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 |
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Trend-Setting the Table
Louisiana Seafood: Napa-Style
Chef Cory Bahr represents his home state at CIA Summit by Beverly Stephen
Cory Bahr’s day job is chef, but he moonlights as a missionary for Louisiana Seafood. In early March he had the opportunity to spread the gospel at the Greystone Flavor Summit, a think tank for high-volume food and beverage professionals, held on the Culinary Institute of America’s campus in St. Helena, California.
the flavor and quality of Gulf shrimp and oysters. But Bahr, the 2011 King of Louisiana Seafood, feels called to educate others about the lesserknown species and their potentials for creative menu items. “It’s a great value that chefs can pass on to their guests.”
The theme of this year’s summit was “Looking in our Own Backyard: A Focus on America.” And nowhere is there a backyard more bountiful than the shores of Louisiana. “Out our back door is the Gulf of Mexico,” Bahr said, enumerating some of the less familiar species found there: snapper, black drum, amberjack, sheepshead and grouper. Most chefs and their customers are familiar with
To illustrate his point, Bahr conducted a demonstration at the Summit where he PanRoasted Louisiana Snapper and paired it with crawfish and peaches pickled with crushed lemon leaves he picked that morning in Napa Valley. Not to overlook the crowd-pleasers, he also prepared an Oyster Carbonara, Crispy Louisiana Shrimp with Pepper Jelly and Herb Salad.
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Throughout the Summit, sustainability and storytelling recurred. “We’ve been fishing in Louisiana for 10 or 12 generations. How irresponsible would it be not to treat Gulf waters in a sustainable fashion?” Bahr asked, noting that traceability is also important. “Every receipt I get says where [the product] comes from.” And Louisiana never lacks for a good story. “When the Cajuns were run out of Nova Scotia, the lobster followed them all the way to Louisiana,” Bahr joked. “But it didn’t eat on the long journey and became very, very thin and turned into a crawfish. And that’s a true story.” Bahr shared the podium with Sal Sunseri, owner of New Orleans-based P&J Oyster Company, which has been harvesting and distributing oysters for more than 130 years. Sunseri, who is also chairman of Louisiana Seafood Promotion and Marketing Board, spoke about the highly regulated oyster industry, his concerns about sustainability and, of course, his state’s love for celebrating food. “We have a festival every week, and we have an oyster festival every year,” Sunseri said. The 2015 New Orleans Oyster Festival is May 30 and 31. After his presentation, Bahr shared his thoughts on the experience. He praised the CIA for its “amazing dedication to the craft. We’re lucky to have a facility like this to educate our future stars. Coming here is like going to the hall of fame. It’s inspiring to represent my state here.” Bahr learned the business the old-fashioned way-starting in kitchens at 16. “I didn’t even know culinary school was an option. I didn’t even finish high school.” Nevertheless, at 39, he’s the chef/owner of two successful restaurants in his hometown of Monroe-- Cotton and Nonna. And he’s won his share of awards-- the 2014 People’s Best New Chef for the Gulf Coast Region by Food & Wine magazine and a 2012 Food Network Chopped championship. At the Summit, he was on a national stage presenting to the leaders of food and beverage for global hotel groups, casinos and cruise lines such as Marriott, Disney, and Princess Cruises. “It’s humbling to possibly influence people to buy more Louisiana Seafood,” Bahr said. “We’re creating a memory with a product that hopefully they will work into their budgets.” And like all chefs who visit Napa Valley, he made pilgrimages to certain iconic restaurants such as The Restaurant at Meadowood. “It’s part of my education,” he said. Inspiring, generating and sharing ideas and making connections-- that’s what the Summit is all about.
Recipe
Crispy Shrimp with Pepper Jelly and Herbs
Chef Cory Bahr serves 6 ingredients: 12 ea large shrimp deveined aerated batter: 1 1/2 c all purpose flour 1/2 c rice flour 1/2 t baking soda 1c coors light 1/2 c vodka salt to taste method: Combine all with a whisk until smooth.
pepper jelly vinaigrette: 1/4 c rice vinegar 1/2 c pepper jelly 1/2 T sriracha 1t fish sauce, good quality juice of one lime 11/2 c grape seed oil salt to taste method: Combine all ingredients in a mason jar. Place lid on jar and shake with vigor. herb salad: 1/4 c toasted peanuts, rough chopped 1/2 c seedless Cucumber, small diced 1 ea bunch of Mint, picked bunch of Cilantro, picked 1 ea 1 ea bunch of Chives, snipped 1 ea small Red onion, julienned 1c heirloom cherry tomatoes, quartered method: Combine in a bowl season with salt and zest of juiced lime. To finish: Dip each shrimp into batter. Fry at 375 for 11/2- 2 min. Remove and drain on a plate lined with paper towel. Garnish with vinaigrette and herbs. Serve. CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 | 15
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Meringue: the ethereal lightness of beating lorin gaudin whips up a story that is more than just fluff
Eg g whi te s are mag ic al thi ngs. T hey star t as a v is co us , cl ear s yru p y t h in g an d t he n w i th so me s h a ki n g, s pi n n in g, be ati n g, or w h i sk i ng , b eco me c lo ud -li k e fl uf fs o f w h ite . O n e of N ew O rle an s mo st r eve re d c la ss i c c ock ta il s is com po se d of egg whi te s; nutr it ioni st s d ecl are the eg g-whi te a s the g o-t o p art of the egg for om el et s; and i t’ s e gg w h i te s t h at gi ve s ou ff lé s t he ir h e igh t ; mo u ss e i ts l i gh t q u al it y; Fre n ch m ac a ro n s a n ai ry cru n c h ; a nd m a rs hm a llo w s a pil lo w 's s of tn es s . Eg g w h i te s are t h e ev er-f le xi bl e yet fi n ick y ba se f or me ri ng u es , a ll s o rts of m eri ngues and t o m ak e a p erfe ct , shi ny m e rin gu e is to ex pe rie n ce t h e e th er ea l li gh t ne s s o f b e a ti ng .
The egg white comprises 58% of an egg’s total weight. A few whites whisked with sugar to firm peaks becomes a standard meringue to top chocolate cream or lemon ice-box pies, but those same whites can also be whipped into shape several ways to be composed into a vast number of savory and sweet dishes and more than one kind of cocktail. The history of meringue begins with the whole egg and is a fascinating study on its own, difficult to, dare it be said…separate. No chickens or which-came-first pondering, the egg itself has long been considered an object of origin. Early Phoenicians thought an egg split open to form heaven and earth, while Native Americans believed that the Great Spirit emerged from a giant golden egg to create the world. In the English language, there are at least 10 idioms for eggs-- “egghead” denotes an intellectual; “a good egg” is someone we like and trust; to get a “goose egg” means getting zero, and when we save money or things for the future, we are creating a “nest egg.” But eggs are mostly thought of as a food source, an important food source, a key ingredient, essential, so important that one anonymous author quoted in Sharon Tyler-Herbst’s eponymous book Never Eat More Than You Can Lift wrote, “The egg is to cuisine what the article is to speech.” Our focus here is the egg-white as meringue and the dishes and drinks that incorporate meringues. Let’s get cracking...
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Although many credit the invention of meringue to an Italian chef named Gasparini and the Swiss town of Meiringen, more sources say “nay.” The Oxford Companion to Food, states quite plainly, “Legends to the effect that the origin of the name (meringue) is connected with the activities of a Swiss chef in 1720 may be disregarded.” Another source notes that the Gasparini’s recipe appeared in a cookbook published in 1720, the only copy of which was destroyed in World War II. Digging deeper, it appears that the earliest documented recipe for baked beaten-egg-whiteand-sugar comes from an English aristocrat, Lady Elinor Fettiplace, in a handwritten recipe for “white bisket bread.” Another recipe for baked beaten-egg-white-and-sugar shows up in a manuscript of collected recipes written, by Lady Rachel Fane, but it was Frenchman François Massialot, the first chef of Louis XIV, who published a cook book in 1692 that includes a recipe for what he called “meringue.” Massialot’s book was translated into English in 1702, but the first use of the word doesn’t appear in the Oxford English Dictionary until 1706. Massialot’s recipe for meringue may not be the first, but the name he
marshmallows
Sucré Pastry Chef Tariq Hanna 35 oz 11 oz 2 1/4 oz 20 8
sugar water glucose gelatin sheets (silver grade) egg whites
method: Bloom gelatin in cold water. Boil water, sugar and glucose to 245˚F. Add softened gelatin. Start whipping whites in an electric mixer and carefully pour in sugar solution. Keep whipping until cool. Add flavouring and color*. Pour into 18”x13” pan lined with silicone mat and powdered sugar. Let cool overnight and cut to desired shape. Toss in powdered sugar. *Add 1 tablespoon of any flavour you desire. (hints: lemon oil, rose water, orange blossom). Add appropriate color as desired.
Housemade marshmallows and French Macaroons (macarons) at Sucré.
Visit the new location of Sucré and Salon by Sucré in the French Quarter at 622 Rue Conti
S’mores Pie
Semi-Sweet Chocolate, Toasted Marshmallow Fluff, Housemade Graham Crackers The American Sector at the WWII Museum
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Molten Chocolate Soufflé
with Salted Caramel Ice Cream Restaurant R’evolution in the Royal Sonesta Hotel
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Recipe
Omelette Alaska Antoine
adapted from Antoine's Restaurant Cookbook by Roy F. Guste, Jr. Fifth Generation Proprietor method: Slice pound cake into 3/4 inch slices set aside. Whip egg whites with salt until they are foamy and can hold shape. Gradually add serves 6 3/4 c of the sugar continue whipping, until the egg whites become shiny 1 pound cake and stand in stiff peaks. Line the bottom of a 12-14 inch oval pan with 7 large egg whites some of the cake slices. Scoop the ice cream onto the cake slices in an 1/4 t salt oval shape. Put the rest of the cake slices around the sides and top of 3/4 c plus 3 T granulated sugar the ice cream. Cover the ice cream and whites with whipped whites, 1 qt vanilla ice cream using all but one cup. Smooth the egg whites with a spatula. Whip the remaining egg whites with 3 T of sugar and put into a pastry bag fitted with a small nozzle. Decorate then brown the Alaska quickly under a broiler flame or in a preheated 450 degree oven for 4 minutes. Serve.
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chose has certainly become de rigueur in French and English as well as Spanish (meringue), German (meringue), and Italian (meringa). This original combination of beaten egg whites and sugar has long inspired many pastry chefs and resulted in several different styles of meringue and many, many applications. In short there are hard meringue kisses and cups; soft, pie-topping meringues, as well as the Italian meringue (a stable meringue made with the addition of a boiling sugar syrup), and a host of meringue-based desserts like Pavlova, French Macaroons (macarons), Baked Alaska, Dacquoise, Vacherin, and a local favorite, Ile Flotant (AKA Oeufs a la Neige). Italian meringues are used popularly here in New Orleans to become silky rich frostings for cakes and cupcakes as well as light, puffy marshmallows. All types of meringue find their way into the cases at Sucré. Pastry perfectionist Tariq Hanna whips his egg-white artistry into Tahitian vanilla, peppermint, coconut-lime, chocolate, strawberry and salted caramel marshmallows. Beyond marshmallows, Tariq’s Italian meringue (absent the gelatin) is whipped until cool to become a 7-minute frosting that crowns cupcakes; and then there are the French Macaroons (macarons). Oh those macaroons-- light, crispy, a labor of love and work that took time to perfect in the humid clime of New Orleans. Every week Sucré produces some 5000 piped macaroon shells which sandwiched together are 2500 finished cookies. These are simple, elegant and classic-- Pecan, Chocolate, Salted Caramel, Almond, Pistachio, Strawberry, Hazelnut, and Bananas Foster-- the signature colors and tastes of Sucré. The traditions of our Grand Dame restaurants have long been the only places to enjoy some timehonored meringue desserts. “Omelette Alaska Antoine” is a spectacular baked Alaska, stunning in presentation and taste. There is also “Meringue glacée sauce chocolat”-- vanilla ice cream on a lightly toasted meringue, draped with chocolate fudge sauce-- such simple sophistication. Soufflé, a dish that terrorizes every home or restaurant cook. Will is rise, will it be light, will the center be perfectly ethereal, will some goof-ball open the oven door to deflate and ruin the dish? This is the angst of soufflé. When a restaurant regularly keeps soufflés on their menu, it is an act of confidence and talent. Meringue in all its guises is a thing of intense culinary and cocktail beauty. It bears its own history that also has controversy, and though nothing more than egg-whites beaten with sugar (or not), is a concoction that morphs magnificently into dishes both sweet and savory. Crisp, soft, silky, spongy, or lightly shaken, delicate and airy, meringue is a trick, a surprise-- magic. Lorin Gaudin has passion for all things food and drink, writing and reporting for national, regional and local publications as well as local television and radio stations. Lorin is the creator-founder of FiveOhFork, specializing in culinary social media/web content for the food industry.
TRADITION AL MERIN GUE DESSERTS
D A C Q U O I S E Also known as a Biscuit or Biscuit Dacquoise. A French meringue is made and sugar and almond flour (or hazelnut, etc.) are folded into it. The Dacquoise can be piped out into discs or spread in a sheet pan and baked at a high temperature. The finished product is slightly chewy, a sponge layer that is used in cakes and other desserts. The alternating layers of filling are often buttercream or whipped cream. F L O A T I N G I S L A N D S Also known as Oeufs à la Neige or Snow Eggs. A traditional dessert in which poached, egg-shaped meringues "float" in crème anglaise with caramel drizzled across, or a caramel "cage" encases the dessert. P A V L O V A A classic, national dish from Australia or New Zealand, depending on which history you believe. A meringue base is mounded in a free form that is hollowed a bit in the center prior to baking. The finished product can be filled with whipped cream and tropical fruits or other fillings. The desserts namesake is the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova.
S O U F F L É France is well known for its soufflés. A typical dessert soufflé is composed of beaten egg whites that are combined with egg yolks and a flavoring such as chocolate, or vanilla. Fruit juice or a fruit purée may also be used. The dish is baked until it puffs up high and is a light, fluffy ending to a meal.
V A C H E R I N A traditional French dessert in which a large, crisp meringue shell or rings of crisp meringue stacked to form a bowl are filled with sorbet, ice cream or Chantilly cream. Meringue is sometimes piped through a pastry bag to decorate this sweet treat. The Vacherin has been interpreted broadly.
DEFINING MERIN GUE
F R E N C H Egg whites are whipped until frothy. Extra fine sugar is then added gradually, until incorporated completely. Flavoring can then be added and beating continues until stiff peaks form. Meringues may be formed with a spoon or piped through a pastry bag. They are then baked slowly at a low temperature to a pale color.
S W I S S Egg whites and sugar are heated over a bain marie until extremely hot. Then the mixture is whipped until it becomes cold and thick, white and airy. It is more stable than the French meringue.
I T A L I A N Egg whites are whisked in a bowl, while sugar and water are cooked in a pan on the stove to the soft ball stage. Once this simple syrup reaches the ‘string stage’, it is cooled down just enough to prevent the egg whites from cooking. The egg whites should be whipped to about half the desired volume. Then, the simple syrup is folded into the whipping egg whites. The meringue should appear almost irridescent, when prepared properly. This is without question the most stable meringue. CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 | 23
Le Méridien hotels proudly feature éclairs inspired by their unique destinations around the globe. To add to the recipes created by their talented chefs, Le Meridien has partnered with James Beard award-winning pastry chef and LM100™ member Johnny Iuzzini to develop a series of locally-inspired éclairs exclusively for Le Méridien.
The Éclair Diaries Le Méridien New Orleans creates a Creole-inspired éclair S AS S A FR A S -PI M EN TO N E CLA I R S HE LL CO F FE E -CH IC O RY PA S T RY C RE A M HE R BS A I NT F ON D AN T + B I TT E RS FO ND A NT PECAN PRALINES
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The Last Bite
An avid motorcyclist, Chef Iuzzini is traveling to iconic Le Méridien destinations in search of inspiration for his next recipe. Stop in to Le Meridien New Orleans to taste his Creole-inspired éclair. To watch the "Éclair Diaries" films and download Chef Iuzzini's éclair recipes visit w w w . l e m e r i d i e n e c l a i r . c o m and discover how Le Méridien is unlocking destinations through cuisine.
Pastry Chef
Johnny Iuzzini
Le Méridien New Orleans 333 Poydras Street 504.525.9444 CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 |
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CULINARY CONCIERGE | NEW ORLEANS
on the menu a showcase of seasonal menus
p. 28
K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen
p. 30
Restaurant Directory
p. 29
Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse
on the menu
Authentic Louisiana
SAMPLE MENU
K-Paul's dinner menu changes daily based entirely on the availability of fresh ingredients.
APPETIZERS
Chicken and Andouille Gumbo
416 Chartres Street
New Orleans Lunch Thursday - Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. For lunch to-go orders, dial (504) 522-8880
Dinner Monday - Saturday 5:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Pan- Braised Chicken, Andouille Sausage, Slow-Roasted with a Dark Roux
Turtle Soup
Ground Turtle and Beef Tenderloin, simmered then finished with Fresh Spinach, Chopped Hard-Boiled Eggs and Dry Sherry
Rabbit Tenderloin with Creole Mustard Sauce
Fresh from Crickhollow Farms Deep-Fried and served with Fresh, Sautéed Spinach and Creole Mustard Sauce
K-Paul’s Fried Oysters with Cool Caper Dipping Sauce
Deep - Fried Louisiana Oysters served with Caper and Dill Dipping Sauce
Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Creole
Green Tomatoes dipped in Corn Meal Batter and deep-fried, layered with sautéed fresh Louisiana Shrimp in Creole Sauce
Shrimp Enchilada
A Corn Tortilla stuffed with sautéed Louisiana Shrimp, Green Chile Pork Sauce, Cheeses and Baked
Cajun Jambalaya
Onions, Bell Peppers, Celery, Tasso, Sausage, Chicken, Tomatoes, Jalapenos and Garlic, Combined with a Rich Stock and Simmered for Hours
Reservations Accepted (504) 596-2530 www.kpauls.com
SALADS
Roasted Pear, Pecan and Bleu Cheese Salad
Sliced Pears with roasted pecans and crumbled bleu cheese on a bed of seasonal greens with white balsamic, honey lime vinaigrette
Spinach Salad
Fresh Young Spinach Leaves topped with Sliced Hard-Boiled Egg, Sautéed Mushrooms with warm Bacon Vinaigrette
MAIN COURSES
Bronzed Veal Chop with Fried Shrimp Hot Fanny
Tender Veal Chop, Bronzed and served with a sauce of Roasted Pecans, Jalapenos,Browned Garlic Butter, Veal Glaze & Lemon Juicetopped with Fried, Fresh Louisiana Shrimp
Blackened Prime Ribeye with BGB
Tender, 12 oz. Aged Prime Ribeye, Seasoned and Blackened in a Cast Iron Skillet and served with Browned Garlic Butter
Blackened Stuffed Pork Chop Marchand de Vin
Tender Pork Chop stuffed with Ricotta, Asiago, Mozzarella & Caciocavello Cheese & Fresh Basil, Blackened and served with Marchand de Vin Sauce
Eggplant Pirogue with Seafood Atchafalaya
Eggplant Pirogue (Cajun Canoe) Seasoned, Battered, Deep-Fried and Filled with Fresh Louisiana Shrimp, Bay Scallops, Crawfish and SunDried Tomatoes in a Garlic, Parsley, Seafood Stock and Butter Emulsion
Classic Shrimp Etouffée
A Classic Combination of Fresh Louisiana Shrimp smothered in a Brown Gravy
Blackened Louisiana Drum
Fresh Drum Fish From Louisiana Waters Seasoned and Blackened in a Cast Iron Skillet
Blackened Twin Beef Tenders with Debris Twin Beef Tenders Seasoned and Blackened Served with Debris Sauce
DESSERTS
Bread Pudding with Hard Sauce An Assortment of our homemade Breads in a Rich Custard and Baked with Raisins and Pecans Served with Hard Sauce
Sweet Potato Pecan Pie
Creamy Sweet Potato Filling and Pecan Syrup Layer, Served with Chantilly Cream
Custard Marie Crème Brûlée with a Praline Bottom
Executive Chef Paul Miller
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Chef Paul Prudhomme and the entire staff of K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen cordially welcomes you to our restaurant.
on the menu
New Orleans Steakhouse Dickie Br en n an ’s Steak ho use 71 6 I berv ill e S tre et Ne w Orl ea ns , L A 7 01 3 0 To M ake Re se rvat ions Call (50 4) 52 2-2 46 7 or v isi t us online at di ck ieb renn ans s t eak h ou s e.c om
Appetizers M c I lh e nny O y st e rs Fried P&J oysters served with a McIlhenny Chipotle Tabasco cream sauce
E scargot Orl eans Tender escargot sautéed with smoked bacon, fennel and mushrooms in roasted garlic butter over a flaky vol-au-vent shell
St eakhous e S hr im p B oil Jumbo Louisiana shrimp boiled and served with a chiffonade of greens, touched with a housemade rémoulade or cocktail sauce
Ib ervi lle S alad Romaine lettuce tossed with a black pepper-garlic dressing, housemade croutons, bacon and fresh grated Parmesan cheese
S ear ed Crab Cake Jumbo lump Louisiana crabmeat folded with traditional ravigote served with a roasted corn sauce
Tom ato-Bleu Ch eese N apo leon Thick tomato slices layered with Danish bleu cheese, shaved red onion and garlic aïoli croutons, topped with housemade rémoulade sauce
D i ni ng R oo m op e n for Di n ne r Ni gh tly 5:30 pm - 10:00 pm L u nc h o n Fri days 11: 30 - 2 :3 0 pm $ 5 aft er 5 pm $5 sma ll Pl at es and coc kt ail s A vail abl e i n the bar M o nda y - Fri day, 5 pm - 7 pm
E ntrées V e al C ho p B o r de lai se 14 oz veal chop served with bone marrow, asparagus spears, drizzled with bordelaise sauce
S team ed Maine Lobs ter One and a half to three pounds, served with tail split in half, claw and knuckle meat exposed, with clarified butter for dipping
Prime Rib Aged USDA prime beef hand rubbed with Creole seasonings and slow roasted to savory perfection, served with freshly made horseradish cream sauce
House Fil et A 6 oz filet served with creamed spinach and Pontalba potatoes, topped with flashfried Louisiana oysters and finished with béarnaise sauce
USDA Pr ime S ir loin S tr ip 2 4 oz USDA Prime Por t erh ouse
G arlic - C ru st e d Gulf F is h The freshest Gulf fish, grilled or garlic-crusted, served over oven roasted new potatoes, grilled asparagus, touched with a citrus butter
D esserts Tr iple Ch ocolate Cake Five layer dark chocolate Cake filled with white & Milk chocolate Mousse, covered with chocolate buttercream ganache
C r e o l e C h e e s e ca k e A classic New Orleans Creole Cream Cheese Cheesecake with seasonal fruit reduction
Ban anas F os t er Br ead Pu dd ing A new twist on an old New Orleans favorite! Banana Bread Pudding, Sliced Bananas, & traditional Foster Sauce
C o c o n u t Ca k e A coconut chiffon cake layered with Italian buttercream, toasted coconut, and topped with vanilla creme Anglaise
Che f Sar a To t h Menu Selections Subject to Change CULINARY CONCIERGE | SPRING 2015 | 29
RESTAURANT
DIRECTORY
Acme Oyster House 724 Iberville Street - French Quarter
504.522.5973
New Orleans Seafood No Reservations Average Entrée: $15; All Major Credit Cards acmeoyster.com Sunday -Thursday: 11am -10pm; Friday-Saturday: 11am -11pm Raw Oysters; Char-Grilled Oysters; Oyster Shooters; Gumbo; Oyster Rockefeller Soup; Jambalaya; Red Beans& Rice; Po-Boys
American Sector 945 Magazine Street - WWII Museum 1 The “Victory Garden to Table
504.528.1940
Reservations Available Average Entrée: $16 ; All Major Credit Cards nationalww2museum.org Lunch: Daily 11:00 am - 4 pm, Dinner: Sun. - Wed. 4:00 - 8:00 pm, Thurs. - Sat. 4:00 - 9:00 pm Oyster “BLT”; Fish & Chips; Victory Garden Salads; GBraised Beef Shortrib with Baked Macaroni & Cheese; Shrimp & Grits
Antoine’s
713 St. Louis Street - French Quarter
504.581.4422
French Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $29; All Major Credit Cards antoines.com Lunch: Mon. - Sat. 11:30 am - 2 pm, Dinner: Mon. - Sat. 5:30 - 9:00 pm, Sunday Jazz Brunch 11 am - 2:00 pm Escargots a la Bourguignonne, Pompano Pontchartrain, Cotelettes d'agneau Grillées, Chateaubriand, Omelette Alaska Antoine
Restaurant August
301 Tchoupitoulas Street - CBD
504.299.9777
Contemporary French Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards rest-august.com Lunch Monday - Friday, Dinner 7 Days a Week Hand-Made Potato Gnocchi tossed with Crabmeat & Truffle, Roasted Rack and Braised Shoulder of Lamb with Lamb Sweetbread Ragôut
House 2 Bourbon New Orleans Seafood
144 Bourbon Street - French Quarter
504.522.0111
Reservations Not Required Average Entrée: $21; All Major Credit Cards bourbonhouse.com Lunch & Dinner Served Daily Plateaux de Fruits de Mer, Redfish on the Half Shell, Deviled Stuffed Crab, Crab Fingers Bordelaise with garlic, lemon & butter
Brennan’s
417 Royal Street - French Quarter
504.525.9711
Upscale Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $29; All Major Credit Cards brennansneworleans.com Breakfast/Lunch:Tuesday - Sunday 8:00 am - 2:00 pm Dinner: Tuesday - Sunday 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm Turtle Soup, Eggs Sardou, Pan-Roasted Veal Sweetbreads with Black Truffle Grits, Classic Steak Diane, Bananas Foster
Broussard’s
819 Rue Conti - French Quarter
504.581.3866
Continental Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $29; All Major Credit Cards broussards.com Dinner Monday - Sunday 5:30 pm - 10:00 pm Pan Seared Georges Bank Sea Scallops, White Corn and Crab Bisque, Pompano Pontchartrain with Ginger Beurre Rouge and Lump Crabmeat
Café Adelaide
300 Poydras Street - CBD
504.595.3305
Contemporary Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $29; All Major Credit Cards cafeadelaide.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Mon. - Sat. Shrimp & Tasso "Corndogs", New Orleans "East" Style BBQ Shrimp, Jalapeno Jelly Lacquered Duck Leg, Bananas Foster Sundae
City Greens
909 Poydras St - CBD
Farm to Fork Salad and Wraps Average Entrée: $9 ; Cash & All Major Credit Cards Lunch Mon - Thurs 11am - 6pm; Fri 11am–2pm Seasonal Salads: Seven Spice Seared Tuna, Truffle Caesar, Shaved Raw Market, Chopped Cobb, Spinach Club
Cochon
930 Tchoupitoulas Street - Warehouse District
504.533.0004
Quick Service eatcitygreens.com
504.588.2123
Reservations Available Cajun and Southern Cuisine Average Entrée: $20; All Major Credit Cards cochonrestaurant.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Mon. - Sat. “Link” Sausage with Stone Ground Grits, Louisiana Cochon du Lait, Rabbit & Dumplings, Oyster & Bacon Sandwich, Catfish Sauce Piquante
Commander’s Palace
1403 Washington Avenue - Garden District
504.899.8221
Reservations Required Contemporary Creole Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards commanderspalace.com Lunch & Dinner Served Mon. - Fri., Brunch Sat. & Sun. Gulf Hake Ceviche, Gumbo, Turtle Soup au Sherry, Black Skillet Seared Muscovy Duck Breast, Onion-Crusted Gulf Snapper
in the Monteleone Hotel 214 Royal Street - French Quarter 3 Criollo Spanish, French, African and Caribbean Cuisine
504.681.4444
Brennan’s Steakhouse 4 Dickie Prime Steaks
504.522.2467
Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $22; All Major Credit Cards hotelmonteleone.com/criollo Breakfast: 6:30 a.m. - 11:00 a.m. Lunch: 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. Dinner: 5:30 - until Country Style Heirloom Tomato Galette, Grilled Shellfish Panzanella Salad, Softshell Crab “BLT”; Pan Seared Diver Scallops & Short Rib
716 Iberville Street - French Quarter MENU p. 29
Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $31; All Major Credit Cards dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Nightly Barbeque Rib-Eye topped with Abita beer Barbque Shrimp, Tomato-Bleu Cheese Napoleon, Bananas Foster Bread Pudding
Domenica
123 Baronne Street - CBD
504.648.6020
Italian Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: Under $30 ; All Major Credit Cards chefjohnbesh.com Lunch and Dinner served Daily Housemade Salumi with Torta Fritta; Octopus Carpaccio; Squash Blossoms with Goat Cheese; Lasagne Bolognese; Gianduja Budino
Drago’s
Two Poydras Street, Hilton Hotel - CBD; 3232 North Arnoult Road
Emeril’s
800 Tchoupitoulas Street, New Orleans - Warehouse District
Seafood Average Entrée: $20; All Major Credit Cards Lunch & Dinner Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Served Sat. Charbroiled Oysters, Mama Ruth’s Gumbo, Lobster, Crescent City Shrimp, Seafood Platters
504.888.9254
Reservations not taken dragosrestaurant.com
504.528.9393
Creole, Seafood Reservations Required Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards emerils.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri. Dinner Served Nightly New Orleans Barbecue Shrimp Served with Rosemary Biscuits, Banana Cream Pie with Banana Crust, Caramel Sauce and Chocolate Shavings
Galatoire’s
209 Bourbon Street - French Quarter
French Creole Average Entrée: $22; All Major Credit Cards Lunch & Dinner Served Tues. - Sun. Shrimp Rémoulade, Oysters Rockefeller, Trout Amandine, Crabmeat Maison, Chicken Clemenceau
504.525.2021
Reservations Available galatoires.com
300 Gravier - CBD
504.523.6000 ext.7098
Contemporary American Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $32; All Major Credit Cards windsorcourthotel.com Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Served Daily Grill Room Oysters, Gulf Seafood Stew, Basil-Fed Snails with Herb Butter, Grass Fed Veal Porterhouse, Grilled Black Hog Pork Chop
GW Fins
808 Bienville Street - French Quarter
504.581.FINS
Global Seafood Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards gwfins.com Dinner Served Nightly until 11pm Crab Potstickers with Pea Shoot Butter, Louisiana Stone Crab Claws, Cashew-Peppercorn Crusted Swordfish, Wood Grilled Sea Scallops
Louisiana Kitchen 5 K-Paul’s Authentic Louisiana
416 Chartres - French Quarter
MENU p. 28
504.596.2530
Reservations Accepted Average Entree: $32; All Major Credit Cards kpauls.com Lunch Served Thur. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 2 p.m., Dinner Served Mon. - Sat. 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. Shrimp and Corn Maque Choux, Pan-Fried Rabbit Tenderloin with Creole Mustard Sauce, Blackened Louisiana Drum, Sweet Potato Pecan Pie
Kingfish
337 Chartres St. - French Quarter
504.598.5005
Savour. Sip. Social. Reservations Accepted Average Entrée: $22; All Major Credit Cards kingfishneworleans.com Lunch Served Mon. - Sun. 11:30 - 2:30 pm, Dinner Sun. - Thurs. 5:30 - 10:00 pm; Fri. - Sat. 5:30 - 11:00 pm Oysters Thermidor, Shrimp Gaufre, Smoked Rabbit Gumbo,"Every Man a King" Fish, "Junky Chick" Rotisserie, Saratoga Steak Frites
La Petite Grocery 4238 Magazine - Uptown
504.891.3377
Luke 333 St. Charles Avenue - CBD
504.378.2840
Marriott 5 Fifty 5
504.553.5638
Contemporary Southern Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $26; All Major Credit Cards lapetitegrocery.com Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thu 5:30-9:30; Fri-Sat 5:30 - 10:30; Brunch: Sun 10:30-2:30 Blue Crab Beignets with malt vinegar aioli , Gulf Shrimp & Grits, Paneed Rabbit with spaetzle, wilted greens & sauce grenobloise Brasserie Fare Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $20; All Major Credit Cards chefjohnbesh.com Open Daily, 7 a.m. - 11 p.m. - Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Pate of Louisiana Rabbit and Duck Livers, Moules and Frites, Grilled Paillard of Organic Chicken, Jumbo Louisiana Shrimp “En Cocotte”
555 Canal Street - French Quarter
Contemporary American Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards marriott.com Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner Served Daily. Seared Jumbo Scallops, Crispy Duck Leg Confit with Citrus Jus, Creole Mustard Glazed Niman Ranch Prok Tenderloin, Roasted Free-Range Chicken
M Bistro Ritz-Carlton Hotel - 921 Canal Street - French Quarter
504.524.1331
Brasserie Fare Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $25; All Major Credit Cards ritzcarlton.com Open Daily, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner New Orleans BBQ “Shrimp & Grits”; Muffaletta Panzanella Salad, Filet of Beef with Blue Crab Bearnaise, Mini Beignet Bites
1403 St. Charles Avenue - Garden District 6 Miyako Japanese Seafood & Steak House
Average Entrée: $15 Average Sushi Rolls: $5; All Major Credit Cards Lunch & Dinner Served Daily Sushi, Sashimi, Miyako Rolls, Hibachi Lobster Tail, Filet, Steak, Shrimp, Scallops, Calamari
Mr. B’s Bistro
201 Royal Street - French Quarter
504.410.9997
Reservations Available japanesebistro.com
504.523.2078
New Orleans Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards mrbsbistro.com Lunch: Mon - Sat 11:30 am - 2:00 pm; Bar Menu: 2:00 pm - 5:30 pm; Dinner Nightly: 5:30 pm - 9:00 pm; Sunday Jazz Brunch:10:30 am - 2:00 pm Gumbo Ya-Ya; Duck Spring Rolls; Mr. B’s Crabcake; Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp & Grits; Oven-Roasted Pork Belly & Fig; Lemon IceBox Pie
Jackson Square 7 Muriel’s Contemporary Creole Dining
801 Chartres Street - French Quarter
504.568.1885
Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $20; All Major Credit Cards muriels.com Lunch and Dinner Served 7 Days, Sunday Jazz Brunch Turtle Soup, Wood-Grilled BBQ Shrimp, Pecan-Crusted Drum with Crabmeat Relish, Wood Grilled Rib-Eye; Wood Grilled Gulf Fish
Café 605 Canal Street - CBD/French Quarter 8 Palace Contemporary Creole
504.523.1661
Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $21; All Major Credit Cards palacecafe.com Lunch Served Mon. - Fri., Dinner Mon. - Sat., Brunch Sunday Crabmeat Cheesecake, Pepper-Crusted Duck with Seared Foie Gras, Cochon du Lait Pot Pie, White Chocolate Bread Pudding
Ralph’s on the Park
900 City Park Avenue - Mid-City
504.488.1000
R’evolution in the Royal Sonesta Hotel 777 Bienville St. - French Quarter 9 Restaurant Imaginative Reinterpretations of Classic Cajun and Creole cuisine
504.553.2277
Globally Inspired Local Menu Reservations Reccomended Average Entrée: $23; All Major Credit Cards ralphsonthepark.com Dinner: Monday - Sunday: 5:30 pm – 9 pm; Friday Lunch 11:30 - 2 pm; Sunday Brunch 11 am - 2 pm Wild Mushroom Ravioli with Garlic Boursin Cheese, Sweet Vermouth Sauce & Crispy Leeks; Painted Hills Hanger Steak with pommes frites Reservations Recommended Average Entree: $32; All Major Credit Cards revolutionnola.com Dinner: Sunday-Thursday 5 -10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 -11 p.m. Death by Gumbo, Creole Louisiana Snapping Turtle Soup, Black Truffle Beef Tartare, Triptych of Quail, Molten Chocolate Soufflé
Rib Room at The Royal Orleans Hotel
621 St. Louis - French Quarter
504.529.7046
Prime Rib/ French Rotisserie/Modern American Creole Reservations Recommended Average Entrée: $28; All Major Credit Cards ribroomneworleans.com Open Daily 6:30 a.m. - 10 pm Warm Shrimp “Remoulade Style”, Roasted Prime Rib of Beef, Cast Iron Seared Filet Mignon with Southern Comfort - Cane Syrup Reduction
SoBou 310 Rue Chartres- French Quarter
504.552.4095
Spirits and Small Plates Reservations Available Average Entrée: $17; Small Plates: $7-$12 All Major Credit Cards sobounola.com Open Daily serving Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and Sunday Brunch Duck Debris and Butternut Beignets; Crispy Oyster Tacos; French Market Veal Sandwich; Crispy Boudin Balls; Chocolate Coma Bar
616 St. Peter Street at Jackson Square - French Quarter 10 Tableau French Creole Cuisine with a Twist
504.934.3463
Reservations Accepted Average Entrée: $22; All Major Credit Cards tableaufrenchquareter.com Monday -Thursday 11:30 am-10pm; Fri - Sat 11:30 am - 11:00 pm; Sunday 10:00 am - 10:00 pm Shrimp Rémoulade, Oysters en Brochette, Crabmeat Ravigote, Truffled Crab Fingers, Creole French Onion Soup, Tournedos Rossini Moderne
DIRECTORY
The Grill Room at the Windsor Court Hotel
RESTAURANT
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