SECONDHAND CLOTHING TRADE WITH THIRD WORLD COUNTRIES by Anamaya K

LASOPORP TCEJORP ROJAM

Nottingham Trent University Words: 2159 15.01.2021

SUSTAINABLE FASHION: INVESTIGATION INTO CURRENT AND FUTURE IMPACT ON THE SECONDHAND CLOTHING TRADE WITH THIRD WORLD COUNTRIES A Project Proposal by Ann Kendi Kinoti

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Table of Contents 3

ABSTRACT

RATIONALE

AIM

OBJECTIVES

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

BACKGROUND

(I) Current Status of SecondHand Fashion Market

16 POTENTIAL CREATIVE OUTPUT

(II) The impact of sustainable fashion on the second-hand fashion market

17 REFERENCES

15 (III) How third world countries are impacted by the second-hand fashion market.

18 APPENDICES

ABSTRACT

The aim of the study will be to carry out an investigation into third world countries second-hand fashion market and how the growth of sustainable fashion will impact it. The investigation will be done in the context of the third-world countries in East Africa; specifically, Kenya. It is the biggest market in East Africa for second-hand clothes, especially from UK. A quantitative research technique will be used as applicable, to gather numerical primary data directly from respondents. This data shall be used to explain specific occurrences from a selected cross-section of second-hand fashion trade stakeholders in Nairobi, Kenya. The use of a survey research approach to be conducted mainly through questionnaires that will be distributed online through emails and other social media platforms is proposed. The research shall also make use of existing data from a variety of secondary sources. The collected data shall be processed and analyzed using appropriate software tools and applications. The study is expected to explain; the current state second-hand fashion market, the impact of sustainable fashion on the second-hand fashion market and how third world countries are impacted by the second-hand fashion market. In addition the research shall discuss some potential creative outcomes. The researcher’s concept map for second-hand trade can be found in appendix 2.

There is currently limited data on this particular topic, it is therefore hoped that this research will benefit the researcher and all consumers of fashion particularly those keen on gaining more insights and understanding about sustainable fashion and its impact on the second-hand clothing trade. In addition, it should benefit those interested in carrying out further research on this, or a similar area of study. The investigation shall be guided by the following aim and objectives:

RATIONALE

AIM The aim of the study is to carry out an investigation into third world countries second-hand fashion market and how the growth of sustainable fashion will impact it.

OBJECTIVES To examine the current second-hand fashion market

To investigate the impact of sustainable fashion on the second-hand fashion market

To explore how third world countries are impacted by the second-hand fashion market

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY The researcher proposes to use a quantitative research technique if circumstances allow, to gather numerical primary data directly from respondents. This data shall be used to explain specific occurrences/ activities of a selected cross-section of second-hand fashion trade stakeholders. The researcher also proposes to use a survey research approach to be conducted through self-administered questionnaires and/or telephone interviews. Due to the movement restriction around the world aimed at curbing the spread of Covi-19, questionnaires shall (as applicable), be distributed online through emails and other social media platforms. The questionnaire shall target specifically selected distributors, retailers and consumers of the second-hand fashion in Nairobi, Kenya.

In this study, the researcher shall also make use of existing data from a variety of secondary sources such as printed material and internet/online sources including books journals, case studies, websites, references, articles and blogs. The collected data shall be processed and analyzed using appropriate software tools and applications. The sub-sections for the secondary research report shall be aligned to the objectives.

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BACKGROUND

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At present, the majority of the population in the third world countries and more specifically in East Africa rely on second-hand clothing. Making sustainable fashion easily available and affordable would be a big boost to the efforts being made towards dealing with the detrimental social and environmental effects associated with the disposal of millions of tonnes of old second-hand fashion products in the third world countries. According to (Green dreamer n.d.), the term sustainable fashion refers to clothing that is designed, manufactured, distributed and used in ways that are environmentally friendly. Then there is fast fashion, a buzz phrase in the fashion world which according to (Fast fashion n.d.), is an approach to the design, creation and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trend quickly and cheaply available to consumers. The fast fashion business model encourages consumers to buy a lot more clothing items, discard them after briefly using them and go back to the stores for yet another lot of clothing items or outfits. From this, it is apparent that the fast fashion industry cares little about the environmental and social sustainability. It is indeed obvious that fast fashion is the main source of the used clothing items that fuel the second-hand clothing market.

For quite a while, the second-hand clothing market has been a major source of clothing for third world countries in Africa. Most of the clothing is recycled from the relatively wealthier countries in Europe, America and Asia. The scale of the international wholesale second-hand or used clothing market is currently estimated to be 4 million tonnes and its value has gradually grown through the years, from 2012 to 2020. According to (Statista n.d.), in 2020, the global market value of second-hand and resale apparel was estimated to be worth 33.3 billion U.S. dollars. Currently, Africa stands out as one of the important and foremost second-hand clothing fashion market in the world. Recent figures from the UN show that an estimated 80 % of Africans wear second-hand clothes that are mainly imported from the USA, Europe, India and Pakistan (Africa vs the USA 2017). Typically the clothes are imported by wholesalers who sell them to networks of distributors and retailers who ensure that they reach the local communities. Interestingly, majority of the consumers of second-hand clothing and shoes consider them fashionable, affordable and durable.

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It may be argued that the use of secondhand fashion clothes and shoes is a form of recycling that contributes to fashion sustainability, but the question is; where do all the unrecyclable and dead stock of the old clothes and shoes go to?. The truth is their disposal has caused enormous social and environmental problems in third world counties. There are many challenges to the growth of sustainable fashion. And perhaps the biggest hindrances come from the proponents of the fast fashion and its attendant secondhand fashion market. There are many social, economic and environmental damaging effects associated with the manufacture of fast fashion clothing products and the disposal of old secondhand clothes\textile material and shoes. For this reason sustained advocacy about the importance of switching to sustainable fashion especially among the consumers of fast fashion is an imperative. It can validly be expected that the growth of sustainable fashion will have an impact on the secondhand fashion market.

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The demand for imported second-hand fashion clothes by the third world countries in Africa is rapidly growing by the day. This is mainly because of limited affordable clothing options at the local community level. For instance, in 2016, the approximated input of second-hand clothing to the sub-Saharan Africa was 20% of the world’s clothing; taking a clear lead from other regions in the world. East Africa alone imports 150 million worth of used clothes and shoes largely from the USA and Europe. lilabare.com

The second-hand fashion trade may have created employment for many people in the third world countries but not under the most favourable circumstances. The trade has broader negative consequences and drawbacks for the end-user markets. For example; in many African countries, the trade has destabilized the local textile manufacturing bases and industries thus suppressing their future revival or development. Whereas a country like Kenya had an estimated half a million garment workers a couple of years back, the number has since significantly reduced to only tens of thousands. This study shall mainly be seeking to:

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Understand the current status of second-hand fashion market

Investigate the impact of sustainable fashion on the second-hand fashion Market.

III

Explore the impact of the second-hand fashion trade on third world countries.

The contents of the above sub-sections are briefly discussed in the following paragraphs:

CURRENT STATUS OF SECONDHAND FASHION MARKET

Currently, people are buying more and more secondhand fashion clothing and the trend is on the upward trajectory. According (Onegreeplanent 2020.) it has been projected that over the next 10 years the second-hand clothing industry will more than triple in value from approximately $28 billion in 2019 to $ 80 billion by 2029. This trend is welcome news to everyone concerned with the damaging impact of the textile industry on the environment and human rights abuses associated with the industry. The fashion industry accounts for up to 10% of the greenhouse gasses emitted globally. This is in addition to causing 20% of global water pollution. It will be best if more people buy more sustainable and second-hand fashion clothing instead of new fast fashion clothing, as this will lead to improved environment and human rights abuses. It is expected that fast Fashion will grow by 20% over the next 10 years, in comparison to secondhand fashion which is expected to grow by 185% (Fast Company 2020).

Under this sub-section the research will examine the current status of the secondhand fashion market. The highlights of the investigation shall include the following: • The origin and the global context of the secondhand fashion market • The key drivers and structure of the secondhand fashion market; • Factors influencing the consumption of second-hand fashion • Trends and characteristics of the secondhand fashion market; • The supply and value chains of the market • Scale and the worth of the market. In an effort to understand the second-hand fashion consumer behaviour and their perception of value, the researcher shall make reference to the Maslow’s hierarchy of needs theory (MSG Management Study n.d.) and the Theory of Consumption Value (TCV). Also, in order to analyze some of the factors driving the fast and second-hand fashion market, the researcher will make reference to the Theory of Supply and Demand (toppr n.d.) and in efforts to understand the driving force in environmental-friendly purchases; the Theory of Planned Behaviour (TPB) and Theory Reasoned Action (TRA) will be used.

THE IMPACT OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION ON THE SECOND-HAND FASHION MARKET

Under this sub-section, the research will among others things attempt to find out the following: -how sustainability in fashion can be achieved; what can be done to support sustainable fashion; the relationship between fashion & sustainability; the relationship between sustainable fashion and second-hand fashion; whether second-hand fashion could be the answer to sustainable fashion; the values and motivations behind the consumption of sustainable fashion; the scale as well as the impact of sustainable fashion on the secondhand fashion market.

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III HOW THIRD WORLD COUNTRIES ARE IMPACTED BY THE SECOND-HAND FASHION MARKET The second-hand fashion market is undoubtedly a crucial economic factor that is providing a living to hundreds of thousands of people in the third world countries. The fact is, second-hand clothes are relatively affordable and acceptable to a cross-section of consumers from third world counties, in Africa.

However this trade has impacted the end-user countries in many areas. Under this section, the research will focus on the impact the trade has on the East African Countries, particularly Kenya. The investigation will highlight the impact on: the environment; the consumers; employment; local textile and clothing industries among others. The research will also apply the PESTEL analysis model (Scanning the environment 2016), to the second-hand fashion market; finding the third world countries are socially, economically and environmentally affected by the currently thriving second-hand fashion trade. The researcher shall carry out the investigation in the context of the third-world countries in East Africa, specifically Kenya. The clothes are usually sold in local markets, providing employment and an important income stream for the local economy. These second-hand clothes are also often sold on to the other East African countries from Kenya’s capital city Nairobi, which is a major hub for second-hand fashion trade in the region.

POTENTIAL CREATIVE OUTPUT Each year, millions of tonnes of second-hand fashion products are sold worldwide with majority of them finding their way into the third world countries. What cannot be used of these products eventually ends up in incinerators or landfills thus causing damage to the environment. Recycling or creatively reusing them can save valuable resources and protect the environment. The reason as to why this not done can be attributed to low consumer awareness about sustainability and poor collection structures in these countries. As a creative output, the researcher proposes to make a video aimed at motivating people and organizations in East Africa to creatively and sustainably use fashion products; and how they can best manage the process of collecting, sorting and recycling old second-hand clothing so as to enhance sustainability in fashion. This will hopefully be done through the recording of live interviews from different people involved in the fashion industry as well as those directly impacted by this research. People such as the traders, consumers and even the distributors. The most beneficial questions will be constructed and asked to the individuals in real time so as to attain the most accurate data that can later be used and shared broadly throughout the East African nations.

REFRENCES (www.dw.com), D., 2021. Fair Trade Fashion: Education For Sustainable Consumption | DW | 03.03.2012. [online] DW.COM. Available at: <https://www.dw.com/en/fair-trade-fashion-education-for-sustainable-consumption/a-15785095> [Accessed 6 January 2021]. (www.dw.com), D., 2021. Second-Hand Clothing For Developing Countries - A Blessing Or A Curse? | DW | 05.04.2012. [online] DW.COM. Available at: <https://www.dw.com/en/second-hand-clothing-for-developing-countries-a-blessing-or-acurse/a-15856826> [Accessed 10 January 2021]. B2U - Business-to-you.com. 2021. PESTEL Analysis (PEST Analysis) EXPLAINED With EXAMPLES | B2U. [online] Available at: <https://www.business-to-you.com/scanning-the-environment-pestel-analysis/> [Accessed 10 January 2021]. Carey, I., 2021. A Boom In Second Hand Clothing Is Reducing Fashion’S Impact On The Planet. [online] One Green Planet. Available at: <https://www.onegreenplanet.org/environment/a-boom-in-second-hand-clothing-is-reducing-fashionsimpact-on-the-planet/> [Accessed 5 January 2021]. Fast Company. 2021. The $380-Billion Trend Turning Fast Fashion On Its Head. [online] Available at: <https://www.fastcompany.com/90576065/the-380-billion-trend-reshaping-fashion> [Accessed 4 January 2021]. Lessler, F., 2021. What Is Sustainable Fashion? (An Introduction And 3 Steps For Getting Started) — GREEN DREAMER. [online] GREEN DREAMER. Available at: <https://greendreamer.com/journal/what-is-sustainable-fashion> [Accessed 3 January 2021]. Lu, V., 2021. Why Is The Used Clothing Trade Such A Hot-Button Issue?. [online] FASH455 Global Apparel & Textile Trade and Sourcing. Available at: <https://shenglufashion.com/2018/11/15/why-is-the-used-clothing-trade-such-a-hot-button-issue/> [Accessed 2 January 2021]. Managementstudyguide.com. 2021. Maslows Hierarchy Of Needs Theory. [online] Available at: <https://www.managementstudyguide.com/maslows-hierarchy-needs-theory.htm> [Accessed 7 January 2021]. Merriam-webster.com. 2021. Definition Of FAST FASHION. [online] Available at: <https://www.merriamwebster.com/dictionary/fast%20fashion> [Accessed 2 January 2021]. Oxfamilibrary.openrepository.com. 2021. [online] Available at: <https://oxfamilibrary.openrepository.com/bitstream/handle/10546/112464/rr-impact-second-hand-clothing-tradedeveloping-countries-010905-en.pdf;jsessionid=2097497C4C8B9A862001EB2AD7AAADE0?sequence=1> [Accessed 5 January 2021]. Reader's Digest. 2021. This Is What Really Happens To Your Used Clothing Donations. [online] Available at: <https://www.rd.com/article/what-happens-used-clothing-donations/> [Accessed 7 January 2021]. Statista. 2021. Secondhand Apparel Market Value Worldwide 2012-2024 | Statista. [online] Available at: <https://www.statista.com/statistics/826162/apparel-resale-market-value-worldwide/> [Accessed 9 January 2021]. The Business of Fashion. 2021. Africa Vs The USA: A Secondhand Clothing Showdown. [online] Available at: <https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/global-markets/africa-vs-the-usa-a-secondhand-clothing-showdown> [Accessed 4 January 2021]. the Guardian. 2021. The Hidden Trade In Our Second-Hand Clothes Given To Charity. [online] Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/2015/feb/13/second-hand-clothes-charitydonations-africa#comment-48280090> [Accessed 6 January 2021]. toppr. 2021. Economics And Governance Theory Of Demand And Supply. [online] Available at: <https://www.toppr.com/guides/general-awareness/economics-and-governance/theory-of-demand-and-supply/> [Accessed 7 January 2021].

APPENDICES 1. PROJECT TIME SCHEDULE/TIMELINES (TENTATIVE) 1.Carrying out an initial research/survey and writing of project proposal, 4 Weeks, Jan 15, 2021 2. Carrying out major research and writing of the final project report, 10 Weeks, Apr 21, 2021 3. Discussion on possible creative outcomes, 1 Week, April 28,2021 4. Work on creatives outcomes, 3 Weeks, May 19, 2021

2. A CONCEPT MAP FOR SECOND-HAND CLOTHING TRADE

3. OBJECTIVES MIND MAP AND BREAK DOWN