FISHING BALTIC SALMON - A SIMPLE GUIDE by Kengis Bruk

FISHING BALTIC SALMON A SIMPLE GUIDE

CONTENT INTRODUCTION

GEAR RODS

FLYREEL

LINES & LEADERS

FLIES

HOOKS

CLOTHING & WHAT TO BRING

PACKING CHECKLIST

FLYCAST ROLL CAST

SINGLE SPEY

DOUBLE SPEY

SNAKE ROLL

TECHNIQUE HOW TO FISH A POOL

THE CAST

MENDING THE FLYLINE

SET THE HOOK

FIGHT THE FISH

LANDING THE FISH

RELEASE

THE WATER HOW TO READ THE WATER

NICE TO KNOW

WHY DO WE FISH?

LAST WORDS

KENGIS RAPIDS

INTRODUCTION A SIMPLE GUIDE FOR BALTIC SALMON FISHING

Baltic salmon fishing is something special. It is a mental game spiced with stunning nature, good times around the fire and great memories. When fishing for Baltic salmon it is important to keep it simple. We can bring all the gear in the world, change lines and fly 100 times, but in the end it is all up to the salmon. Sometimes we wonder what the salmon thinks; “Does this fly look like something for me? Is my neighbour in the pool irritating me? Do I have a free run through the pool and just want to race upstream?” In the end salmon fishing is easy, if the salmon wants to take our flies. That is why it is a mental game. You can fish a whole week or maybe a season and then in the last hour you get that one take you have been waiting on, but that feeling creates memories. The take, the fight, the landing and the release gives you a great feeling and it will bring a smile on your face and you will forget about time and place. No matter where you are fishing, you can use the tips and tricks from this small guide.

GEAR

GEAR RODS Most important when you choose your rod for salmon fishing is to find a rod that fits you. In general we look at two different types of rods. “Medium fast” and “fast action” rods. The action of the rod tells you how stiff the rod is. “Fast action” is more stiff than “medium fast”. There are different types of actions in different rods. But in the end the thumb rule is that “fast action” is more stiff than “medium action”. “Fast action” rods are good if you want to fish heavier lines or if you are a caster with a bit more experience. It requires more technique and timing in your cast. “Medium fast” is the most common rod to use. You will have a bit more feeling with the rod because of the less stiff action. It is more forgiving than the “fast action”. Most rods come in both actions and it is worth trying before buying. When it comes to rods there is a direct link to which type of lines to use. All rods can change action with different lines. This will be described further in the section “Lines & leaders”. At Kengis Bruk we recommend bringing rods from 13 feet to 15/16 feet class 8-10. In the early season we fish longer rods because there is a chance to fish in high water and you need to fish heavier lines. Later on in the season, when the water level is going down, we fish shorter rods and lighter lines. Class is a number to indicate the “power” of the rod. The higher the number the more power.

MOST COMMON RODS AT KENGIS BRUK 13 feet - class 8 14 feet - class 9 15 feet - class 10

GEAR FLYREEL

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE REEL FOR THE SETUP? The reel is important for the balance in the setup. A good balance in your setup gives you more time in the water and helps you with the casting. The reel should contain backing, shootingline, shootinghead and leader. We will talk more about lines in the next part of this guide. Most reels come with a specification that tells you to which rods they fit. ex a 8-10 reel fits rods in class 8-10, but it is important to try the setup and feel the balance. A good solid brake on the reel is good to have. You can also fight the fish with your hand on the side of the reel to put pressure on the fish when it runs.

GEAR LINES & LEADERS BACKING Backing is the first part of the reel, it is a thin line that helps you as the fish fight hard and swim away from you. You need around 200m 30Lb or more (breaking strength) of backing on your reel.

SHOOTINGLINE & RUNNINGLINE Shootingline is the part between the backing and shootinghead. It Is a thicker line than the backing and helps you to cast and to control the shootinghead. There are different types of shootinglines, but the most common is monofil and coated lines. The heavier shootinghead you are using, the stronger shootingline you need. The most common to use is a 50Lb line, if you fish lighter lines you may need a 30 or 40Lb line. It will help your casting.

MONOFILAMENT Monofilament is a thick nylon line and gives you a longer cast. It can be difficult to time this type of shootingline if you are new to casting with double hand rods.

COATED RUNNINGLINE Coated runningline is a line with a layer of plastic on a core. This runningline gives you a better control of the line and creates more friction when you cast, so it will help you straighten your shootinghead and leader when casting.

SHOOTINGHEAD Shootinghead is at the end of the shootingline, it is thicker and gives you the weight that you need to cast the line. There are many different models on the market and each brand has its own version of the perfect shootinghead for salmon fishing. Most important is that it fits the setup and is easy to cast. 6

GEAR LINES & LEADERS VERSITIP SYSTEMS This is one of the more common systems that we see at our Baltic rivers. You have a belly (first part of the shootinghead) and then different tips (last part of the shootinghead) Then you can change belly or tips regarding the depth you want to fish. Most systems come with a floating belly and then 3-4 different tips from floating to sink 4-6.

GEAR LINES & LEADERS DENSITY HEADS These shootingheads are in family with the versitip systems but some come without tips. Most of these lines have names like 3D or 4D and that is a name for how many densities you have in the line. ( ex 3D = float - intermediate - sink3) They can be effective for a fast change and to fish different water levels.

POLYLEADERS An extra leader to use after the shootinghead if you want to fish deep and get the fly down fast. It adds some extra weight to the whole line setup, so it can change the way you are casting. Polyleaders come in different sink speeds and are mostly used when you have high water and want to make sure the fly goes down fast.

GEAR LINES & LEADERS LEADERS This part comes after the shootinghead or the polyleader. You can either fish a long tapered leader (around the same length of your rod) or shorter leaders if you are using a polyleader or just want your fly to sink faster. The reason to use a long leader is the benefits of the casting. It makes it easier to anchor the line and the presentation of the fly is better. Most common to use is tapered leaders in 13-15 feet. Depending on the season and the place you are fishing you use different diameters on the leader. In the early season it is normal to use 0,40 - 0,50 maybe even more and later on in the season you can use 0,30 - 0,35.

TIPPET Is the last part before the fly. It is a short part of monofilament or fluorocarbon that you tie to the leader. The reason to use a tippet is to keep your leader as long as possible and only change the last part (the tippet) It is important to use a thinner tippet than your leader. So if you use a 0,40 leader, use a 0,35 tippet.

GEAR FLIES This part is probably the most difficult to give a clear answer on what to do. There are many different fly patterns that work for baltic fly fishing. We think that it is important not to give the fly too much attention and give it too much value in the success or not. You can catch fish on the most ugly fly and you can catch on the best fly you have tied and maybe spend hours to make it perfect. In the early season bigger flies can be effective. Flies in the size of an 8-10cm wing. In the middle of the season you can downsize to 4-6cm wings and late season you can fish with 24cm wings. If the water gets warm it is good to downsize the flies. Sometimes it can be effective in order to provoke the fish to use small flies. The flies can be weighted or fished with sinking lines so you get them down in the water. When you have bright weather it is good to use bright flies and in cloudy weather it is good to have some kind of contrast in the fly.

GOOD FLIES FOR BALTIC RIVERS

GEAR FLIES DEN VANLIGA

Tube: Pro sportfisher micro Dupping: Salmo supreme yellow 1st. wing: Polarbear yellow 2nd. Wing: Artic fox burnt orange Hackle: Blue 3rd. wing: Artic fox fiery brown Flash: Angel hair gold Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher black

Tube: Pro sportfisher micro Dupping: Salmo supreme yellow 1st. wing: Polarbear Yellow 2nd. Wing: Artic fox yellow sunburs Hackle: Yellow sunburst 3rd. wing: Tanuki golden olive Sides: Peacock hear Flash: Angel hair gol Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher black

BANANAFLY 11

GEAR FLIES ORANGE FLY

Tube: Pro sportfisher micro Dupping: Salmo supreme orange 1st. wing: Polarbear orang 2nd. Wing: Artic fox burnt orange Hackle: Burnt orange 3rd. wing: Artic fox burnt orange Flash: Angel hair orange Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher orange Pro sportfisher hookguide Tube: Pro sportfisher micro Tag: Antron yarn red Dupping: Golden pheasant crest 1st wing: Yellow polar bear 1st hackle: Grizzly yellow 2nd wing: Artic fox orange 3rd wing: Artic fox banana yellow Falsh: Angel hair gold Flash: Krinkle gold Cheeks: Jungle cock 2nd Hackle: Blue Conehead: Pro sportfisher orange

ONKA FLY 12

GEAR FLIES PHATAKORVA

Tube: Pro sportfisher micro Tag: Antron yarn fl. Orange Dupping: Golden pheasant crest 1st wing: Orange polarbear 2nd wing: Fiery brown artic fox Hackle: Brown 3rd wing: Fiery brown Flash: Angel hair gold Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher orange

BLACK & ORANGE Tube: Pro sportfisher micro Dupping: Salmo supreme orange 1st. wing: Polarbear orange 2nd. Wing: Artic fox burnt orange Hackle: Black rooster 3rd. wing: Artic fox black Flash: Angel hair orange Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher black

GEAR FLIES WILLIE GUN

Tube: Pro sportfisher Micro Dupping: Salmo supreme yellow 1st. wing: Polarbear yellow 2nd. Wing: Artic fox burnt orange Hackle: Black rooster 3rd. Wing: Artic fox black Sides: Peacock hearl Flash: Angel hair gold Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher black Tube: Pro sportfisher micro Dupping: Salmo supreme black 1st. wing: Polarbear blue 2nd. Wing: Artic fox blue Hackle: Black rooster 3rd. wing: Artic fox black Flash: Angel hair blue Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher black

BLACK & BLUE 14

GEAR FLIES MONKEY FLY

Tube: Pro sportfisher flexitube Body: Silver braid 1st wing: Yellow polarbear Hackle: Yellow 2nd wing: Black Artic fox Sides: Peacock hearl Flash: Krinkle flash pearl Cheeks: Jungle cock Conehead: Pro sportfisher yellow fl.

TIPS FOR FLIES If nobody else are catching any fish, do something crazy try a small hook, fly or a big Sunray Shadow. If you don't know which fly to use, always return to your favorite fly.

GEAR HOOKS What hook to use can be a tricky question and with a lot of different good hooks on the market it can be a tough choice. But most brands make good treble and double hooks for salmon fishing and the most important thing is to find a hook that balances your fly. Hook size 6-12 is good for most flies. We normally use size 8-10 for most of our flies. Hooks in that size are good to get a good hookset in the mouth of the salmon. There are no good answers for using treble or double hooks. It is up to the fishermen to decide and to choose a hook that balances the fly the best way. A small tip is to add some glue or a small pearl on the hook to prevent the wing from getting tangled up in the hook. Choose a color that matches the fly.

HOOKS WE RECOMMEND Loop Straight Double Tube Hook Guideline Flyfish Treble X-Strong Owner STN-46BC Treble Hook

GEAR CLOTHING & WHAT TO BRING What to bring? Waders, boots, jacket and clothing for a week of fishing. Waders can be any kind of waders but we recommend breathable waders. The boots are to choose with felt or rubber soles. Felt is good in the water, but can be slippery on ex grass. Rubber soles are good for most parts but can be slippery on rocks in the river. It can be helpfull with studs (small metal screws) in the soles to give you more support in the river.

GEAR PACKING CHECKLIST

CLOTHING

EVERYTHING ELSE

Waders

Line nipper

Jacket

Plier

Puff jacket

Measuring tape

Fleece jacket

Camera or phone

Long johns

Knife

Hoodie

Matches or lighter

Warm socks

Coffee & coffeepan

Cap

Headlamp (late season)

Beanie

Mosquito oil Polaroid glasses Extra leader and tippet Net (if needed)

FLYCAST

FLYCAST The fly cast is not easy to learn and it requires time and effort to get better to cast with a two handed fly rod. There are some tips and tricks that are useful to remember when learning to cast a double handed fly rod. First thing is to know that everything you do before your cast is going forward doesn't really matter. It comes down to what type of cast that fits you the best or the surroundings. Do you have a tree hanging over your head? Wind from a bad side or are you on a different side of the river than you are used to? The basic element of the cast is to lift the line from the water, move your rod to a position behind you and then let the line anchor on the water before you move the rod forward to a stop that sends the line flying over the water.

3 BASIC CASTING TIPS Let your shoulders point the way you want to cast Keep your arms and elbows close to your body Less power often makes longer casts

When fishing a fast flowing river, you have to look at different elements in order to choose the best cast for the place you are fishing. Elements like wind, favorite hand on top, the side of the bank you are fishing, are all playing a role in the choice of cast. Practice 1-2 casts that you are comfortable with and then work on these casts. When they are good, you can start working on different casts.

FLYCAST ROLL CAST This cast gives you a good feeling with the movement in the rod and in the line, so you kind of feel where to stop the rod behind you and in front of you.

A thumb rule can be less movement, easier to cast. You have the rod in your hands and move it next to you and kind of drag the line in the water. Stop at the point where the top of the handle is at your shoulder area and the rod tip is at the 11 o’clock point behind your head. The line is now forming a D-form from the water and up to the top of the rod. It might sound crazy but that D-form and the anchor in the water (the line that is in/on the water) will give the line speed to fly when you move your rod from 11o’clock to 13 o’clock in front of you in an accelerating movement to a resolut stop. Roll cast is also good to bring the line up in the water, so you can lift it free from the water. If you are fishing a heavy sinking line you can't just start a new cast.

FLYCAST SINGLE SPEY Is a cast close to the roll cast. You are using some of the same movements and techniques as the roll cast. You start off with a roll cast to lift the line in water and get the line in the right position for you to cast. Then you lift the rod and move it to the same point as in the roll cast in an accelerated movement and when the rod is at your shoulder and the rod tip is pointing away from your head behind you, you take a really small brake, like 0,5 seconds. Then you accelerate your rod to the stopping point in front of you and let the flyline go. It is a good idea to aim for something high in front of you in order to make the rod stop at the right point. The difference from the roll cast is, instead of dragging the line behind you, you lift the line. This is a common cast and good to practice with both hands on top of the rod. It gives you benefits to fish from both banks almost wherever you are.

FLYCAST DOUBLE SPEY Double Spey is a development from the single spey cast. This cast is a bit different and does not require exactly the same timing as in the single spey cast. In order to have your “best” hand on top of the rod it can be a possibility that you need to change your cast. If you are a right handed caster and fish from a bank where your right hand is downstream. (The stream is pushing on your left side facing the water) The double spey cast can be effective. You start with a roll cast to lift the line, then you cross your arms so your right hand goes over the left hand. Now you have the rod on your left side (upstream) It is important that this cast is made in a constant movement with no drag or fast pulls (like putting soft butter on a bread). From here you move the rod horizontally in front of you up to your shoulder. This movement is a bit more accelerated and when the top of the handle is at your shoulder you take a small brake (0,5 seconds) and then you accelerate your forward movement to a resolut high stop. So the movement can sound like this; butter on bread, up to the shoulder and forward to the stop. This cast is a good beginner cast since you get some of the timing by the movement. In the single spey much more of the cast is based on the timing.

FLYCAST SNAKE ROLL You use the Snake roll cast in the same situations where you use double spey casts. You use the cast when you have the stream from your left side and the right hand on top of the rod. After the roll cast you lift the rod and start a movement, move the rod in a loop going forward downwards and then up to the shoulder. Then you make a small brake and then accelerate to a resolut stop. This cast is more technical and requires more timing than the other cast. These casts are the most common cast to use when you are fishing for salmon with double handed rods. There are more different casts to learn and use, but remember that the last part of the cast is always the same. An accelerating movement to a stop that makes the line fly.

TECHNIQUE

TECHNIQUE HOW TO FISH A POOL When coming to a salmon pool, start looking at the water. Look for stones, edges/ledges, holes or something that makes a change in the flow of the water, that indicates good places for the salmon to rest. Start higher in the pool than where you want your fly to fish. The fish is sometimes resting around the point you spot and it is sad to miss a fish by starting too early in a pool. Start with a short cast to cover the water close to you and then put some distance into the cast and fish your way through the pool. First you cast, when the cast is over you are stripping in then you walk 3-5 steps and get ready for a new cast. It is a feeling how fast you want to fish a pool. If you really believe that the fish is there, you can make an extra cast or two, otherwise I prefer to fish it quite fast and then I would rather fish it again.

TECHNIQUE THE CAST A “normal” salmon cast is from 80-45 degrees from yourself and looking at the water. Some techniques require different casting, like Frances flies where you cast upstream to let the fly sink more and so on. But as said for a “normal” swinging fly is a cast with an angle off 8045 degress downstream.

TECHNIQUE MENDING THE FLYLINE What is mending the line? It is a way to control the speed and the depth of your line when you are fishing. If you lift the rod and move the line upstream right after the cast, you mend upstream. It gives the fly a second to sink and you will fish a bit deeper. If you lift your rod and move it downstream right after the cast you mend downstream and create more push in the line and therefore more speed in the fly. Both mending methods can be effective, and sometimes it is all about switching around and if you know the fish are in the pool and they do not react to one method, try the other one. When I am fishing I mostly mend upstream. I can feel the fly better and I think it works very well for me.

TECHNIQUE SET THE HOOK It is almost impossible to tell you how to set the hook when the fish strikes, but there are some tips and tricks you can use. Most of the time you don't know when it will happen. You can have a feeling that it will happen and sometimes it does. It is tough to tell, but sometimes it is just a feeling that comes to you when you are by the river. In the end there are no rules how to set the hook and most of the time you are not prepared. One way to do it, is to fish with a small loop from the reel and to your fingers that hold the rod. When the fish takes the fly it will go for the fly and turn around to get back to the place it was standing. When fishing with the loop you will feel the strike and the turn and when the loop is “gone” you hold gently to the line and the hook will set in the mouth of the fish. When you feel the weight of the fish you can let go with your fingers and fight the fish on reel and with the rod. Another way to do it, is kind of the same as the first one, but without the loop. You fish with the whole line on the reel and when the fish takes the fly you will let some line go from the reel, hold gently to set the hook and fight the fish. It requires more timing than the first method. A third way to do it, is to strike when you feel something in the fly. That way you are not taking any chances but the timing and the hookset can be difficult.

TECHNIQUE FIGHT THE FISH This is also a category that has no real answers, but with some tips you can have a better chance to land the fish. At first it is very important to say that it comes down to the feeling when you fight the fish. How much pressure you can put on the fish, do you fish near rapids or other places that you know can challenge the fight.

The first part of the fight: When the fish finds out that it is hooked it will be angry. It will maybe swim upstream or downstream. Take care not to push it too much in the first part of the fight. Then it is like a dance, your turn and then the fish and back and forth. When the fish pulls let it pull. When it is not pulling, try to back up if possible and reel in. It comes down to the feeling, when to let go and when to push it. When the fish gets tired you can push it more. If the fish jumps or takes some really fast runs, don't try to stop it or pull. It will probably loosen the hookset. Remember to fight the fish as fast as possible in order to give the fish the best chance to survive after the fight.

TECHNIQUE LANDING THE FISH After the fight it is time to land the fish. If you are fishing with a friend, ask for help. It is much easier to land the fish with help. Talk about where you want to land it and let your friend know. It is up to the guy fighting the fish to let the landing guy know what you will do. If you have a net, make sure it is wet not to harm the fish and then be sure to be quick with the net. Hold the “net bag” in your hand, so you have less resistance in the water. When the fish is in the net, don't lift it out of the water. Drag it slowly to shore and keep the fish in the net while measuring and releasing the hook. When you are ready to take a quick photo, lift it from the net. If you don't have a net, you can tail the fish. To tail a fish your friend will need to grab the fish around the tail when it is ready. Most times it is not ready the first time, so be ready to let go of the fish again after the first try. Make sure to take care of the fish when you tail it. If you fish by yourself it is important to find a good place to land the fish and then it is helpful to drag the fish slowly towards the chosen place. Have some distance to the fish and walk slowly backwards. If you have too short line you will have a bad angle to the fish and a bigger chance to lose it. When the fish is laying in the river bank in the water you hold the line tight to the fish by pointing the rods backwards and reel in while you move to the fish. By doing that the fish is still “locked” when it is laying in the water at the shore.

TECHNIQUE RELEASE Most of the fish we catch at Kengis Bruk are released again. It is a way to preserve the wild stock of fish in the river and give something back to the river.

THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN RELEASING A FISH Keep them wet Limit your time with the fish Use both hands when you lift it Don’t push the organs of the fish

After the landing you are ready for the release. Hold the fish with the head upstream and let it wait until it is ready to go. It will give you some indications by pulling a bit and some small shakes when it gets water/air through the system. Hold it gently in the water and let it go when it is ready. And then enjoy the experience.

THE WATER

THE WATER HOW TO READ THE WATER By spending time at the water you learn how to look at the water and read the water. Where are the stones, holes, small necks or an edge that are worth spending some extra time on or making extra cast at that place.

THE WATER HOW TO READ THE WATER STONES Sometimes you can see them and sometimes you just know they are there, maybe from low water conditions or that you know that the fish stops at the place. A stone is a good resting point for the fish on the way upstream and in strong current they can have a break around a stone. Remember that the fish can be in front and on the sides of the stone and not always behind them.

HOLES A deeper hole or area is sometimes shown by a glassy area on the top of the water. It is a part that you always want to fish. It can be a natural stopping place for the fish.

NECKS A neck breaks in the water where the water runs faster and you will have an area upstream and downstream a neck. It can be big like in Kengis or small ones as well. There are always good places before and after a neck.

EDGES/LEDGES An edge/ledge can be a good place to cast some extra times. It can be an edge between deeper and lower water or something that brakes the current.

NICE TO KNOW LESS POWER / LONGER CAST Remember this sentence. When things are hard and the arms are tired remember that less power makes it easier. We have a tendency to use more power when this is not working the way we want it to, but it is not the answer. Relax, enjoy and take a pause if you need it.

CHANGE FLY It can be the thing that you need to do in order to trick the fish, but most important is to believe in your fly. Most of the time I fish the same fly and if it does not work make a change.

CHANGE THE LINE Like changing the fly, changing the line can be the key to find the fish. Most of the time I bring two setups. One that fish higher in the water and one that fish deeper. Then it is fast to change. Otherwise I change after I have looked at the conditions. If the water is high I fish deeper and the other way around.

WHY DO WE FISH? Why do we go fishing? And for some, book a trip and fly to the other side of the world in hopes of catching a specific fish? Let’s try to remember our motivation and remember what made us book the trip, take the day off to go fishing or just swing a fly for a few hours? It’s the feeling of high hopes, chasing dreams and the chance to catch a big fish. Let’s be honest, it can take days, weeks or years to fulfill that dream, most of the time it’s not happening. And why? For us it comes down to one sentence; “We can’t control nature”. But when the dream comes true we create memories that will last forever and stories that will be told for many years in the future. You will remember the day, place and who you were together with and you will always have a common experience to share. Whenever you go out and spend time in nature and especially when you go fishing, try to let yourself go in one with nature and feel it instead of trying to control it. You can never control how many fish you will catch or how big they are. Let nature do what it does best and just be a part of it. We can’t guarantee that you will catch a fish, because we can’t control nature, but we will do our absolute best to make your stay a memorable experience in the scenery of the beautiful Swedish Lapland nature. So lean back, fish and enjoy.

LAST WORDS Baltic salmon fishing is a special thing - big waters and big fish. But remember to work hard, spend your hours in the water and at the river. You will get rewarded at some point and when you do, it can be one of the big baltic salmon that takes you through a fight of your lifetime. Believe in what you are doing and keep working, and then enjoy the time at the river. Make a fire, boil coffee, eat a hotdog and get ready for your run in the pool. Follow your feelings and do what you believe in, if everybody else is fishing in the same way, try to do something different to see if that works. When the fish strikes your fly you know you have done something right and enjoy the fight. You will remember that feeling for a long time. Baltic salmon fishing is addictive. Enjoy! Aslak Lund - Lodge manager, Kengis Bruk

PHOTO CREDIT TED LOGARDT, SWEDISH LAPLAND

ÁLVARO G. SANTILLÁN, FOCUS ON THE FLY MEDIA

JONO WINNEL

FREDERIK LAKS LORENTZEN, INWADERS MEDIA

LARS MUNK, HEART OF LAPLAND

ANTTI EINIÖ, ANARESOR INTERNATIONAL

THOMAS HJEMSTED

BERTRAM STRANDVIG

HOOKÉ, STUART DAVIS

ASLAK LUND, KENGIS BRUK