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FW13 TREND 2 0 1 3 I M REPORT E OA G ARZ I N ET. C O M K E N TP ONM
KENTONM A GA Z I N E. C OM
ALEXANDER LIANG (Editor-in-Chief) TERICA WALTON (Creative Director) COLIN DAWIDZIUK (European Fashion Director)
TALYA MACEDO MEGAN WEST ANDREW TANG-KONG JACK DUCE
Fashion Editor & Digital Lead Market Editor Assistant Fashion Editor—Europe Fashion Assistant
03
FW13 TREND REPORT It seems like the world’s designers had a similar thought in mind for the collections this season; the new mood, in all it’s glory, is something that reaches everyone. From the polished rebels to the many ways to wear a skirt, from the classic suits to the leathered up kinks, it seems cliche to say there is something for everyone. And yet, here we are.
Welcome to the new season. We’ve been expecting you.
Ph o t o g r a p h e d by : Br i t t a ny L amso n
P h ot ographed by: Br i t t a ny L a mson
05
WOMENS Warning: the trends you are about to see are not for the weak at heart. Better strap your combat boots, ladies—it’s a war out there.
BALENCIAGA
ROKSANDA ILINCIC
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
ALEXANDER WANG
JW ANDERSON
ALTUZARRA
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FUR-REALISM It’s on the tip of every animal rights activists tongue – but for now, let’s forget the controversy, and focus on the sheer beauty of what we call the ‘new fur’. It’s reworked, it’s kooky, it’s funky, but most of all – it’s fresh. Look at
SISTER BY SIBLING
Roksanda Ilincic’s neo-brights, J.W. Anderson’s mink torsos, and Topshop Unique’s off the shoulder chic for the wearable; Alexander Wang, Sister by Sibling, and Altuzarra for the more ballsy. And though we don’t condone fur, we can admit that the call of the wild is too strong to ignore. Just be sure not to stroke yourself in public. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR
JOHN ROCHA
SEE BY CHLOE MIU MIU
ROKSANDA ILINCIC
MARA HOFFMAN
CHANEL
07
TICKLED PINK Shades inspired by flushed cheeks and delicate roses flocked the runway for Fall 2013 and brought an energy that was one part fierce femme and another, ethereal. From dusty rose to saturated or borderline
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
fuchsia hues, pink is back and designers are ready to play with it. The shade isn’t traditionally considered a Fall-Winter hue, so interest is easily created when it’s textured, structured and even more so, heavily printed on tunics and trousers. Pair your pinks with teal or turquoise accessories to create interest that is traditionally associated with Spring, but looks incredible in Winter - or black to sharply juxtapose. TALYA MACEDO, FASHION EDITOR & DIGITAL LEAD
CHANEL PETER PILOTTO
CHRISTOPHER KANE
MARY KATRANTZOU
BURBERRY PRORSUM
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
JIL SANDER
08
COATING RANGE Question for you, dear reader. What is the one thing that one must never question calling an ‘investment’? If you answered a coat, you’d be right. And for once, the coat is in full swing for the new season, meaning – you guessed it – there’s an opportunity to have your coat portfolio stock rise…and rise…and rise. From sleeveless to oversized, military to tomboy, there’s something for everyone, from graphic beauty at Peter Pilotto, to cinched femme fatale at Bottega Veneta, to shouldered shearling at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Now there’s no excuse for a shoddy staple. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR
MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC
PROENZA SCHOULER
MAXMARA
BOTTEGA VENETA
VALENTINO
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
SAINT LAURENT
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ROKSANDA ILINCIC
GIVENCHY
SAINT LAURENT
CHRISTOPHER KANE BURBERRY PRORSUM
ALTUZARRA
CELINE
10
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL PRADA
VICTORIA BECKHAM
JIL SANDER
TOPSHOP UNIQUE MARIOS SCHWAB
SKIRTING THE ISSUE
Ah, the skirt. An icon of femininity, a versatile wardrobe necessity, and often a forgiving best friend. The only downfall of the new season’s obsession with the skirt? Being spoiled for choice. With designers across the world showing off their love for the multifaceted staple, the amount of options for this trend is staggeringly, eye wateringly astounding. Mini, knee, midi, ankle – do you hark to Christopher Kane’s utilitarian cool, Burberry Prorsum’s kinky-yet-cool lurex, or Victoria Beckham’s executive realness, maybe even Roksanda Ilincic’s lady-like demure length? That’s up to you. But don’t worry – you’ve got plenty of choice. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR
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CHRIST OPHERKANE
ALICE AND OLIVIA
FALLING FOR FLORALS
ROBERTOCAVALLI
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
LOUIS VUITTON
PETER SOM
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We’ve all made the Devil Wears Prada-inspired floral jokes (thank you Miranda Priestly), but there’s a reason they keep coming back. With the ability to breathe new life into one’s wardrobe season-after-season, designers are constantly recreating the classic print. This fall there’s a wide-range of aesthetics with Louis Vuitton and Peter Som here to represent for the more whimsical woman who approaches her style with
CHARLOTTE RONSON
a softer, romantic feel, while designers such as Christopher Kane, Alice and Olivia and Roberto Cavalli deliver for the woman who’s unafraid to make a bold and more playful statement. But whichever style one chooses, there is a distinct air of sophistication that will undoubtedly shine through on the woman who dares to wear. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR
TOMMY HILFIGER
MULBERRY
CHECKED PAST Spring’s stripes have made way to an even more geometrical pattern. Don’t be a square... Check patterns return this fall. Fresh takes on the old time classic were interpreted by a multitude of designers this season. Each with his or her own take on the perfect check, many designers seemed to abide by an overarching ode to the English countryside. This season, check patterns make their way into our wardrobes via statement coats and jackets to skirts and dresses. Whether you opt for a small checked accessory or a full patterned suit, this trend is one to embrace. ALEXANDER LIANG, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
STELLA MCCARTNEY
ROKSANDA ILINCIC
MOSCHINO
CELINE
PHILLIP LIM
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LANVIN JONATHAN SAUNDERS
CHRISTIAN DIOR
PRADA
BURBERRY PRORSUM
NINA RICCI
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LADY LUXURY There’s no shortage of unapologetic glamour this season, and really, what’s better? For the ladies who wish to exude classic elegance with modern aesthetic, this trend promises to deliver. The key player here is the elongated silhouette, as seen at Prada, Nina Ricci, and Lanvin, which emphasizes the female shape and exudes confidence. For the more contemporary girl, there are the slightly edgier variations as seen at Burberry Prorsum and Gucci, which with their leather skirts and contrasting textures evoke a tougher, modern-day femme fatale. The feeling here is pure luxury that packs a powerful fashion punch; a trend
GUCCI
that speaks to the most fearless of women. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR
CELINE
CHRISTOPHER KANE
PETER PILOTTO
CHLOE
JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA
J.W. ANDERSON
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MARY KATRANTZOU
LINEAR MOTIONS Mandated to continuously push limits, designers are forever searching for inspiration. Architecture and industrial design are often sourced and have severe influence on collections. We move away from streamlined silhouettes and enter a world of jutting shoulders, climbing collars, and swooping capes. But to avoid looking over the top, pairing architectural outerwear with slimming basics or choosing a shape featuring a cinched waist can help counter any negative impact. Chosen with care, these structural pieces generously contour certain body parts while graciously forgiving others. ANDREW TANG-KONG, ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR (EU)
CHANEL SAINT LAURENT
VERSACE
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
RODARTE
CHRISTOPHER KANE
JW ANDERSON
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REBEL, REBEL, REBEL Is it any wonder the punk/grunge look is all the rage? See what we did there? Ah, nevermind. With the Met Gala celebrating all things punk earlier this year, is it all that surprising that designers across the globe did their thing with the iconic look? Of course not. Look at Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci for the ultimate inspiration in high-gloss-rebellion, but for those of you veering to the more wearable side, it’s all about Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent incarnation of the Cali-punk. And let’s not forget the kinky Versace or the elegant McQueen – rock on, ladies. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR
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HAIR THE UN-DONE BUN Perfectly messy hair is eternally chic and this season that translates to the perfectly imperfect bun. Seen at Marchesa, Prabal Gurung, and Dolce inspired in its elegance, but secured more towards the nape of the neck with perfectly frayed strands, the classic style is given an ultra-cool update. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, we suggest braiding the sides of your hair, or the bun itself for some added dimension. Try: Give your hair soft texture with Oribe Dry Texturing Spray and lightly tease the sides and crown to create natural-looking volume. If you have shorter layers in the front, allow those pieces to fall naturally instead of securing
PRABAL GURUNG
& Gabbana, this look lends a Parisian-chic feel to any look. Ballerina-
them into place. From there, pin your bun into place, pull out a few wispy pieces, and be on your way!
ORIBE DRY TEXTURIZING SPRAY
MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR SANDRA KASPRZYSZAK, FASHION ASSISTANT
FAVORITE PART It was unanimous among hair experts everywhere at fashion week that the side part was their favorite part. Whether it was the diffused, tough look at Marni, a side pony at Lanvin, or Taxi Driver curls at Bottega Veneta, each look centered around a side part. Before creating a deep side part, add texture to hair by using a volume spray or powder. Try: Loreal Super Dust, Root boosting, voluminous powder, by “Puffing” directly onto roots for lift or through lengths & ends for a matt, tousled effect. Finish off with Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine serum to seals, coat and smooth, to create a finished look. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR
BOTTEGA VENETA
SANDRA KASPRZYSZAK, FASHION ASSISTANT
CALVIN KLEIN
LOREAL SUPER DUST
REDKEN DIAMOND OIL SHATTERPROOF SHINE SERUM
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BEAUTY From the very bold, to the very understated, we’ve rounded up three of our favorite fall beauty trends. There’s a lot of fun to be had, so be fearless and let your creativity shine through! Contrast with your favorite fall fashion trends for a gorgeous and on-trend look from head-to-toe.
1| CRAZY EYES Run wild this season with bold liner in all sorts of crazy colors! Let your instincts take the lead, mixing and contrasting your favorite hues. From 60’s inspired liner at Anna Sui to over-the-top glittering gold at Chanel and Thakoon, there’s ample inspiration to push your eye make-up boundaries all season long. Tip: Keep skin bare and lips nude to keep things from getting messy. We suggest mixing Tom Ford Nude Vanille with MAC Underage Lipglass for the perfect neutral lip. Try: Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner, MAC Eye Shadow in Tilt and MAKE UP FOREVER Glitters in Gold 1.
2| BARE MINIMUM Clean, fresh-faced models dominated the Burberry, Christopher Kane, and Calvin Klein runways this season with looks tailored to enhance each model individually. Tip: Create uniformity with Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer, Burberry Sheer Luminous Fluid Foundation and NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer. Highlight, contour and enhance your own unique features. Try: Create a healthy glow with the Benefit Watt’s Up! (use on your cheeks, under the eyes, and brow bone) and Yves St. Laurent ROUGE VOLUPTÉ - Silky Sensual Radiant Lipstick.
3| TEXTURED LIPS Just when we thought the perfect lip consisted of a simple application of our favorite lipstick and a slight rub of the lips to even out the color, textured lips filled the fall 2013 runways of Prada, Derek Lam, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Marni, and suddenly we wanted more. Gone are the days of using lip liner (if you even do) for just a mere outlining of the lip or as a means of staying between the lines. Not only does working your lip liner almost all the way down to the middle of your lips create depth and dimension, but using mismatched lip liner and two lipstick colors blended together, opens up a whole new ball game for your lips. Try different textured looks by blending in darker shades towards the center of the mouth, leaving you with fuller, bolder lips. Tip: Press lips with fingertips to create a stain. Try: NARS Mascate Pure Matte Lipstick with NARS Jungle Red Lip Liner Pencil
MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR SANDRA KASPRZYSZAK, FASHION ASSISTANT
1 ANNA SUI
CHLOE
DIOR
19
2 BOBBI BROWN LONG-WEAR GEL EYELINER
CHRISTOPHER KANE
NARS MASCATE PURE MATTE LIPSTIC
3 DEREK LAM
FLUID FOUNDATION
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
BURBERRY SHEER LUMINOUS
P h ot ographed by: Br i t t a ny L a mson
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MENS Move aside, Dapper Dan. There’s a new sheriff in town, and he’s got a thing or two to say about his clothes...
GIVENCHY
CARLOS CAMPOS
CARVEN
TOP MAN DESIGN
SAINT LAURENT
22
DETAILED VERNACULAR The couture-like details of this season’s menswear are making it easier than ever for men to push their style boundaries. Precise tailoring with luxe fabrics, as seen at Givenchy, Burberry Prorsum and Dolce & Gabbana are undeniable options for the most refined men who possess an eye for true luxury. But for the more urban, downtown-cool guy, the over-exaggerated shapes and strategic layering, a la Topman Design and Sibling, promise to lend an unexpected edge to one’s look. We
SIBLING
suggest approaching this trend with a no holds barred attitude, as these styles command attention, leaving little room for self-doubt. MEGAN WEST, MARKET EDITOR
DRIES VAN NOTEN
HARDY AMIES
LOU DALTON
DAMIR DOMA
VALENTINO
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CHECK, PLEASE. Fall and Winter are no strangers to the influence of checkered prints, especially on flannel and wool – but designers are playing with squares in new, bright hues and silhouettes that are bound to inspire the men of the season to mix up their print stories a bit. The versatility of this look is immense – meant to be played with in several contexts including sleek, fitted blazers (dapper every time!) or loose, punky trousers. Extend your look by mixing checks of different sizes or pair your solidhued pieces with coloured checks to brighten your look as the days GUCCI
get duller. TALYA MACEDO, FASHION EDITOR & DIGITAL LEAD
GIVENCHY CALVIN_KLEIN
KENZO
NEIL BARRETT
PUBLIC SCHOOL NYC
LACOSTE
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EH, NEW SPORT? Summer may be over, but it’s a whole new sport this season. Are you game? Designers are taking inspiration from sports, all kinds of different sports. This fall, it’s all about a great crewneck, but we’re not talking about your old varsity pullover. Remixed in lux fabrics, sportswear is taking on a new form of chic for men. Clean lines and bold stripes take the lead. And while athletic aesthetics trickle into ready-towear, the key to this look is refinement. Go for muted colors and earthtones. Don’t be afraid to juxtapose proportions, but definitely steer clear of the post-workout look. ALEXANDER LIANG, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
DIOR HOMME
CALVIN KLEIN
GIVENCHY
JIL SANDER
25
SUIT YOURSELF Outside the land of weddings and boardrooms, the suit is seemingly more ubiquitous on an every day basis. Maintaining this perspective, designers have adapted an inclusive measure to satisfy a range of tastes and desires. Brands have exploded with suiting options, albeit more progressive, bordering outlandish, ones. Zippers instead of buttons, skirts instead of trousers. Gone are the traditional gentleman standards of this wardrobe essential. This contemporary take, or blatant boundary
LANVIN
pushing, introduces mixed materials, high stances, and no lapels. It’s undeniable that there are endless choices. ANDREW TANG-KONG, ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR (EU)
TOPMAN DESIGN
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
BURBERRY PRORSUM
GIVENCHY
26
LEATHER, DADDY Leather on men has always been a slight taboo, hasn’t it? Leave it to the gays and bikers, they cried. Well not anymore – it’s time to turn a
SAINT LAURENT
blind eye and invest in the manliest of fabrics, be it leather, pleather, or wet-look. Balmain – the purveyor of manly and stylish leather – leads the pack in the style stakes, whilst JW Anderson charges with his army of leather-clad lads to provoke a little thought. Either way, there’s something for every-man – and trust us, it’s all good. COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR
27
GROOMING HELPFUL HYDRATION From businessman to bricklayer, grooming is fundamental to vitality
LUCAS’ PAPAW OINTMENT
of life. Segueing through autumn and winter months, hydrating and retaining skin’s moisture is a top priority. Aside from staples of exercise and water consumption, a more topical approach is to incorporate moisturisers into the daily skin regime. Though a manual longer than War and Peace can be written, from application to ingredients, the basics aren’t so perplexing. Opt for a moisturiser that compliments your skin type. Whether oily or dry, normal or combination, there is a formula on the market that is suitable. Experimentation is key. Bear in mind, there is absolutely no correlation between price tag and effectiveness. Moisturisers containing sunscreen perform double duty. Prevent wrinkles and protect your skin from
ART OF SHAVING - AFTER-SHAVE LOTION
harmful rays by choosing one with a minimum of SPF 15. Ensure to apply your moisturiser immediately after bathing. This coating traps water in the surface cells maintaining hydration for a longer period of time. The ideal product and a simple routine can be invaluable, resulting in a softer, healthier outer shell. ANDREW TANG-KONG, ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR (EU)
LAB SERIES - DAILY DEFENSE AESOP - EYE CREAM
AHAVA - MINERAL HAND CREAM JACK BLACK - LIP BALM
JACK BLACK - DOUBLE-DUTY FACE MOISTURIZER
GIVENCHY
BURBERRY PRORSUM
LANVIN
PROENZA SCHOULER
CHRISTOPHER KANE
PRADA
DOLCE & GABBANA
ROKSANDA ILINCIC
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
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CHANEL
What’s the new season without a little bit of detail and accessories? Nothing, that’s what! From shoes to bags to all the little details you don’t get to see in the images, check out our selection of the best final touches of the collections…
CELINE
BURBERRY PRORSUM
ALL IN THE DETAILS
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COLIN DAWIDZIUK, EUROPEAN FASHION DIRECTOR
MARIOS SCHWAB
ALBERTA FERRETTI
CHLOE
SAINT LAURENT
BOTTEGA VENETA
DONNA KARAN
JACK DUCE, FASHION ASSISTANT
KENTONM A GA Z I N E. C OM