GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

from 2022-2023 Drink Local

MIKE AND THE MANHATTAN

BY TRACEY TEO GRAPE

EXPECTATIONS

Sip and savor locally with a visit to a Kentucky winery

Kentucky is world-renowned for its booming bourbon industry, but there’s another alcoholic beverage that attracts visitors from far and wide—wine. The Bluegrass State was wine country long before it was bourbon country. Known as the Rhine of America in the early 1800s, Kentucky was a burgeoning wine region that produced dozens of varietals. By the latter part of the 19th century, the industry had declined, but in the last 20 years, it’s been revived in a big way. With more than 70 wineries across the state, it would be impossible to visit them all in one trip. Here are a few standouts to get you started on an odyssey through Kentucky’s viticultural regions.

StoneBrook Winery

Dennis Walter, owner of StoneBrook Winery, produces wine on his northern Kentucky farm near the Camp Springs community in Campbell County just as his greatgreat-grandfather did. According to Walter, winemaking was such an integral part of this ancestor’s life, his headstone is etched with clusters of grapes. During this early vintner’s time, wine tourism wasn’t a thing, so much of what makes StoneBrook so charming today—namely, a rustic tasting room and a well-curated outdoor space—didn’t exist, but what remains constant is the pastoral beauty of this pocket of the state that abuts the Ohio border. In a white gazebo surrounded by delicate wildflowers, guests sip their favorite vintages, including an estate-bottled Vidal Blanc, as they take in the spectacular view of the rolling hills and valleys. Allie, a lovable black lab, snoozes at their feet. Others do their sipping and swirling in the rustic farmhouse tasting room, where tasting five wines costs $5. The ruby-colored Chambourcin is always a hit. This low-tannin wine has a slight earthiness that’s balanced by notes of black cherry. Walter encourages wine enthusiasts to give his sweet fruit wines a try, which isn’t always easy. “Fruit wines have a bad rap for being syrupy sweet,” Walter said. “But over the years, we have developed formulas and techniques that prevent that syrupy aftertaste.” Strawberry and blueberry wines fly off the shelves, but blackberry is the bestseller. These are straightforward, unpretentious wines— summer in a glass. No need to analyze them trying to detect nuances of this or notes of that—just drink and enjoy. Celebrating a special occasion? Hop aboard the Belle of Cincinnati paddle wheeler for a wine tasting and sunset dinner cruise on the Ohio River. StoneBrook partners with BB Riverboats. For tickets, visit bbriverboats.com.

Equus Run owner Cynthia Bohn

Equus Run Vineyards

Wine country and horse country are a beautiful pairing at Equus Run Vineyards. Situated on 38 bucolic acres in the the Bluegrass, this Midway winery is nestled among famous Thoroughbred farms and overlooks South Elkhorn Creek. Join a complimentary guided tour that showcases the wine production facility housed in a renovated tobacco barn. A guide breaks down the science behind the fermentation process and explains how aging in oak barrels imparts layered, complex flavors. The tour concludes in the stone tasting room, where tastings range from $7-$10. Savor the spice and peppery bite of a fullbodied Petite Sirah or sip a fruit-forward Grenache that recalls the Southern Rhone Valley. Those who prefer sweet wines may select from the Farmstead Series of orchard fruit wines with fun names like Hootie Berry Blackberry and Peachy Piggy.

If You Go:

STONEBROOK WINERY 6570 Vineyard Lane Melbourne 859.635.0111 stonebrookwinery.com

LOVERS LEAP VINEYARDS & WINERY 1180 Lanes Mill Road Lawrenceburg 502.839.1299 loversleapwine.com

EQUUS RUN VINEYARDS 1280 Moores Mill Road Midway, 859.846.9463 equusrunvineyards.com

This winery features attractions that go beyond the grapes.

Get out on the putting green or paddle South

Elkhorn Creek in a kayak. (Guests bring their own kayaks.) A 1,400-seat amphitheater hosts ticketed concerts.

Tunes in the Vines, a free afternoon music series, kicks off on May 22 with the British-inspired band the Twiggenburys and runs through the end of

October. Performances are in the tasting room gardens. Bring a picnic and drink in the ephemeral beauty of spring in Kentucky’s horse country.

Lovers Leap Vineyards & Winery

If a romantic trip through the wine regions of France isn’t in the cards this year, take that special someone to Lawrenceburg’s Lovers Leap Winery, where you can taste superb vintages much like those grown in Bordeaux, including a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon aged in Kentucky oak barrels and an unexpectedly bold 2017 reserve Merlot. After you’ve been greeted by friendly golden retrievers Bella and Bodie, take a stroll through verdant vineyards, where eight varietals of sun-kissed grapes dangle gracefully from leafy vines. Then settle in the tasting room for a delectable wine and chocolate tasting. When paired properly, wine and chocolate complement each other. In general, lighter wines pair best with lighter chocolates, and heavier, full-bodied wines pair best with more intense chocolates.

Wine maker Bryan Jones said, “When the two are combined, we refer to what happens as an expansion of flavors. Acids in the wine break any bonds in the chocolate that would normally hold back some flavors. This release is a new experience created by the wine, and the wine is also deliciously changed to some degree by the chocolate.” The 2019 reserve Cynthiana paired with raspberry-infused dark chocolate is always a palate pleaser. Q