May 2011 Vol. XXIV No. 5
www.CoffeeTalk.com
Water Matters and Slammed! Big Brewing
This Month: 12
Judy Ganes-Chase
14
Metropolis Coffee - Chicago
18
Rocky Rhodes
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Contents
7
CoffeeTalk Exhibitors at the NRA
8
The View
From Miles & Kerri
Slammed! Big Brewing
10
Slammed! Big Brewing
12
How High is High?
14
5HWDLOHU 3URÀOH Metropolis Coffee
by Dan Bolton
by Judy Ganes-Chase
Metropolis Coffee
by Maxim Vershinin
16
Water Matters
18
Why does a roaster NOT cup
How High is High?
by Claire Vallin
by Rocky Rhodes
20
NewsBites
WHO WE ARE Owners CEO/Publisher/Advertising Director Kerri Goodman-Small, ext 1 206.795.4471 kerri@coffeetalk.com Editor-in-Chief Miles Small, ext 2 miles@coffeetalk.com
Design
21
Advertiser Index
Print Design Marcus Fellbaum, ext 5 marcus@coffeetalk.com Web Design Justin Goodman, ext 6 justin@coffeetalk.com
Administrative
Feature
Administrative Director, Accounting, Subscriptions Claire Vallin, ext 4 claire@coffeetalk.com
Mailing Info
Water Matters by Claire Vallin
Mail: HNCT, LLC, 25525 77th Ave SW Vashon, WA 98070 Phone: 206.686.7378 Fax: 866.373.0392 Web: www.coffeetalk.com
Disclaimer CoffeeTalk does not assume the responsibility for validity of claims made for advertised products and services. We reserve the
right to reject any advertising. Although we support copyrights and trademarks, we generally do not include copyright and trademark symbols in our news stories and columns. Circulation: CoffeeTalk (ISSN 1084-2551) is mailed monthly (10 times per year) with combined June/July and November/ December issues, also bonus mailing/distribution for Education Guides and foodservice/hospitality and coffee conventions/shows throughout the year. Postmaster: Send address changes to HNCT, LLC, 25525 77th Ave SW, Vashon, WA 98070 Subscription: The cost of a subscription in the U.S. is $47.50 per year; in Canada, the cost is $72.00. Free to qualified industry professionals. Non-qualified requests may be rejected. Publisher reserves the right to limit the number of free subscriptions. For subscription inquiries, please call 206.686.7378 x1 or subscribe online at www.CoffeeTalk.com. Copyright © 2010, HNCT, LLC, All Rights Reserved
4 May 2011
IT’S TIME FOR
PEACE
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INTRODUCING THE QUIET ONE.®
TO SEE AND HEAR THE DIFFERENCE, GO TO VITAMIX.COM/THEQUIETONE OR CALL 800-4DRINK4 FOR A DEALER NEAR YOU. VISIT US AT THE NRA SHOW, BOOTH #3413
©2011 Vita-Mix® Corporation.
Be sure to visit these exhibitors at NRA 3M Purifications Inc. Booth #1612 866.990.9785 www.cunofoodservice.com A world leader in the design and manufacture of a complete line of water filtration solutions for the foodservice industry. See Our Ad on Page # 17 Boyd Coffee Company Booth #4342 800.545.4077 www.boyds.com Boyd Coffee Company delivers everything your coffee, tea and beverage program needs, especially satisfied guests. Taste our new Island Mist® fresh brewed iced teas! See Our Ad on Page # 22 ChefTec/Culinary Software Services, Inc. Booth #4252 303.447.3334 www.culinarysoftware.com ChefTec Software, the leader in back-ofthe-house technology for the foodservice industry, for inventory control, recipe/menu costing, purchasing & ordering, nutritional analysis and more! See Our Ad on Page # 22 Everpure Booth #3114 630.790.1092 www.everpure.com Everpure - the ideal OCS water treatment partner to help you turn beverage programs into a profit center. We'll help you deliver premium water to increase profits and great ingredient water to sell more coffee. See Our Ad on Page # 23 Georgia Pacific-Dixie Booth #6432 866.435.5647 www.gppro.com Georgia-Pacific Professional is a provider of hygienic dispensing systems, towels, tissues, soaps, air fresheners, wipers, cups, cutlery and napkins. For more information please call 1-866-435-5647. See Our Ad on Page # 9 Java Jacket Booth #450 800.208.4128 www.javajacket.com "Java Jacket" The Original Green Coffee Sleeve. Comes in 100% Recycled Natural Kraft or White. Can be Custom Printed with your design." See Our Ad on Page # 13, 23 LBP Manufacturing Booth #1609 800.545.6200 www.lbpmfg.com LBP Manufacturing, Inc. combines innovation and performance to develop foodservice packaging to enhance your brand. LBP introduces Calyx® insulating paper hot cups made with 25% post-consumer fiber. See Our Ad on Page # 17 Melitta SystemService USA, Inc. Booth #3438 847.717.8900 www.melittasystemservice.com Melitta SystemService GmbH & Co. KG (MSS) is a worldwide leading manufacturer and supplier of commercial fully automatic coffee and espresso machines. We produce our high quality products in Minden, Germany and in Hunzenschwil, Switzerland. See Our Ad on Page # 11 Monin Gourmet Flavorings Booth #1268 800.966.5225 www.monin.com With 200 of the finest flavored syrups, sauces and purees available to the coffee industry, Monin ensures ultimate taste and creativity for successful beverage solutions. See Our Ad on Page # 23
OTB Packaging LLC Booth #450 419-356-8348 www.baristabox.com The BaristaBox delivers more profit per cup to your Cafe! Visit www.baristabox.com Ideal for Caterers, Bakery/Cafes, Coffeehouses, Donut Shops, Gourmet Markets, Delicatessens, and more! See Our Ad on Page # 13, 15 Perk Dynamics, Inc. Booth #5460 919.851.3221 www.perkdynamics.com Perk Dynamics offers an integrated set of software to manage coffee and espresso operations by providing functionality to centrally access and control multiple locations real time. See Our Ad on Page # 22 Service Ideas, Inc. Booth #2818 800.328.4493 www.serviceideas.com Since 1946, Service Ideas has been a leader in the foodservice industry offering an extensive line of products for insulated beverage service. See Our Ad on Page # 23 Stalkmarket Products (Asean Corporation) Booth #4338 503.295.4977 www.stalkmarketproducts.com Stalkmarket is the leading supplier of 100% compostable plant-based coffee cups, lids, tableware, cutlery and food packaging. "100% Compostable - It's All We Do." See Our Ad on Page # 2, 23 Tightpac America inc. Booth #7828 888.428.4448 www.tightvac.com Brands include - Coffeevac, Teavac - Patented Vacuum sealed system protects your Coffee & Tea every time you open and close the container. Simplicity that works! See Our Ad on Page # 23 Tomlinson Industries Booth #7625 866.269.1303 www.tomlinsonind.com Founded in 1911, Tomlinson® Industries is the world's leading manufacturer of No-Drip® faucets and fittings for beverage and liquid dispensing and commercial foodservice equipment. See Our Ad on Page # 23 Vita-Mix Corporation Booth #3413, 3289A 800.437.4654 www.vitamix.com/thequietone As the leader in the commercial blending industry, Vitamix brings value through quality and consistency, improving speed of service, reliability and developing customized programs. See Our Ad on Page # 6, 7, 23 Wilbur Curtis Booth #4018, 4022 800.421.6150 www.wilburcurtis.com Curtis is a leader in the design and manufacture of premium commercial coffee and tea brewing systems and specialty drink machines featuring exclusive Generation Three (G3) digital control. See Our Ad on Page # 3
KEEP THE PEACE WITH
THE QUIET ONE
®
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The Quiet One is ideal for bars, coffee shops, small cafés and smoothie stands where traditional blender noise can really spoil the ambience.
VITAMIx.COM/THEQUIETONE
7
The View A
rriving back at my desk on Tuesday after the SCAA Annual confer-
cancer every year around the world. What is extraordinary is that the disease
ence, I began the process of mentally dissembling all the informa-
is completely preventable and treatable if discovered early. For about 25¢ a kit,
tion gathered through the Symposium and the regular conference.
the disease can be diagnosed in a single visit and then, if a woman is found
Here is a partial list of those moments that best show the highest qualities of
with cancer, for a bit more the treatment can be performed the same day.
the Specialty Coffee industry.
Everyday, Grounds for Health is saving women’s lives, literally.
Rick Peyser. Is it possible to say too much in praise of Rick. He is our resident
This year, Grounds for Health was awarded the SCAA Sustainability Award
saint in coffee. For years he has preached, often in the wilderness, about Los
for their work. A very big achievement. GFH’s big sponsor is Green Mountain
Meses Flacos, the thin months. I think I first heard about this from Rick
Coffee – again, as well as Royal Coffee, Swiss Water Decaffeinated Coffee,
about 5 years ago, and he has written about it several times in CoffeeTalk. For
and ECOM. CoffeeTalk too is proud to be a (lesser) sponsor and Kerri sits on
those who do not know what this is about, let me explain. The thin months
their Board.
are the period between the end of the harvest and the beginning of next years harvest when a farmer must support all his family’s and farm’s needs just on
The International Women in Coffee Alliance. The IWCA experienced its
what was earned through the last coffee harvest. In a recent survey across
breakout moment at the SCAA this year. Dedicated to developing chapters
Central America, fully 2/3’s of small holding farmers said that they were
in coffee growing countries through which coffee women in consuming
unable to maintain a normal diet for their families through the thin months.
countries and producing countries can build strong relationships, support
This condition is so prevalent that Los Meses Flacos is well known and widely
each other, and train in better business and agricultural practices to develop
accepted through out coffee growing regions as a general condition of life.
quality and higher value. The IWCA signed charters with two new chapters at the SCAA this year – the Dominican Republic and Burundi, raised thousands
Now the message is gaining momentum in the coffee consuming countries.
of dollars to further support programs with a donor appreciation dinner as
At the SCAA Rick Peyser, along with the Coffee Trust presented a film about
well as the now-traditional IWCA breakfast, and secured funding for scholar-
Los Meses Flacos called “After the Harvest” narrated by of all people, Susan
ships to allow women from origin to attend the second IWCA International
Sarandon. It is a masterpiece of visual and emotional documentary that bring
Conference in El Salvador to be held later this year.
forth this crucial issue with absolute clarity. If you care about coffee, you must see this film. Rick Peyser, Green Mountain Coffee, The Coffee Trust, and all
With the addition of the Dominican Republic and Burundi, the number of
those involved in the making of this film are to be congratulated. We are in
countries with Women in Coffee Chapters rises to seven, with another twelve
their debt.
waiting in the wings to fulfill the requirements to become chapters and join those groups already enjoying the benefits of the IWCA. CoffeeTalk is proud
Grounds for Health. GFH celebrated its 15th anniversary at the SCAA con-
to also be a sponsor of the IWCA and Kerri sits on their board as well.
ference and what a magnificent achievement. Grounds for Health is dedicated to ending the scourge of cervical cancer in developing countries. Cervical
These are just a few of the great moments at the SCAA. We truly have a great
cancer is the leading cause of death by natural causes of women of child
association and industry. Thank you.
bearing age in the coffeelands. Although rarely lethal in developed countries,
Cheers,
for a variety of reasons hundreds of thousands of women die from cervical
Calendar
8
May 14
Wake up the World, Fair Trade Breakfast
July 8-10
Coffee Fest, Hawaii
May 21-24
National Restaurant Show, Chicago
Aug. 18-21
Roaster’s Guild Retreat, Roanoke West Virginia
June 2-5
World Barista Championship, Bogota, Colombia
Aug. 28-30
Western Foodservice & Hospitality Expo, San Diego
June 3-5
Coffee Fest, San Diego
Aug 28-30
Ultimate Barista Challenge – San Diego
June 22-24
SCAE World of Coffee Event, Maastricht, the Netherlands
Aug 29-31
Ramacafe, Managua, Nicaragua
June 24-26
World Tea Expo, Las Vegas
Sept. 8-10
Florida Restaurant and Lodging Show, Orlando
June 26-28
Southwest Foodservice Expo, Dallas
Sept. 8-10
Ultimate Barista Challenge - Orlando
June 26-28
Ultimate Barista Challenge - Dallas
Sept. 8-10
Coffena Internation Coffee & Tea Fair and EU’Vend – Cologne, Germany
May 2011
Slammed!
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ext time you race up front to rescue a pair of panicked baristas serving 100 cups an hour consider the 2000-cupsper hour Texas-sized chuck wagon breakfasts, church services for 1000 and the annual Lance Armstrong bicycle race R.C. Beall has mastered since 1981.
Beall, who founded Montana Coffee Traders (and its Austin, Tex. twin), cut his teeth on Montana rodeos which remain among the more challenging venues for the Montana/Texas-based roaster who sells and services coffee brewing equipment and operates retail shops in Kalispell, Whitefish, Flathead and Columbia Falls Montana as well as the University of Texas, Austin. www.coffeetraders.com A Licensed Q-Grader, Beall doesn’t serve swill. He does good business in high-volume brewing, delivering 50 to 250 fresh-brewed gallons at a time. In some venues a shop can earn $35 per gallon retail which is what hotels charge (or $160 wholesale at $1 a cup delivered in 10-gallon containers). Every shop should offer catered coffee in 96-oz. insulated cardboard takeaway. The business is profitable at $18 for regular brew but what Beall has learned is the ability to scale up for events like the popular Austin City Limits concerts and city-wide extravaganzas. Churches are a significant part of his customer base, says Paul Ballenger, founder of Nashville, Tenn.-based Coffee Makers Etc. In the half hour following services it is not unusual for churches to serve 500 to 1000 8-ounce cups from a dozen serving stations. www.coffeemakersetc.com “Pastors know that it doesn’t look good to serve bad coffee,” he observes. Ballenger has a lot to say in praise of the gear itself. Modern brewers are not the over-heating over-extracting percolators of yore. Next generation 4.5- to 45-gallon per hour brewers from BUNN, Fetco, Grindmaster, and Wilbur Curtis provide precise temperature controls, extraction brewing, interchangeable heat-conserving thermal dispensers and pulse brewing technology to please the crowds. You can serve good – even great coffee – in quantity if you have the right equipment and make preparations well in advance, says Beall, “You just have to get up well before dawn.” “Our challenge as specialty roasters 30 years ago was the 10-cent bottomless cup at small town cafes,” he explains. “We were situated outside Glacier Park surrounded by 4 million acres of wilderness. Everything was far apart. We learned to do things long distance.” That’s how he discovered the key to success, he explains. “It’s too much trouble to take brewing equipment to a rodeo and set it up. We brew doublestrength coffee in a row of French presses and add hot water to taste,” he says. Delivering 3,750 pounds of brewed coffee poses logistical problems that may require a forklift, two pickup trucks and pallets, but that’s often a lot easier than finding a supply of filtered water.
by Dan Bolton 6SHHG\ DQG &RQVLVWHQW 6XSHU$XWRPDWLFV %\ 'DQ %ROWRQ When confronting a lengthy queue thirsting for more than simple brew — a high volume SuperAutomatic is the solution. Any event, restaurant or coffee shop that draws big crowds will find that hundreds of these folks prefer espresso drinks. Even the fastest barista manning a semi-automatic will be exhausted long before the lines dissipate, making SuperAutomatics the ideal solution. Melitta’s c35 was developed for McDonald’s in Japan. Melitta’s c35 gets its name from its slim design (35 centimeters wide), but this machine can deliver 250 espresso drinks an hour, according to Krista Reddington, Marketing Manager at the firm’s Elgin, Ill. office. Currently about half the McDonald’s in the U.S. are equipped with Melitta machines. Melitta Bentz invented drip style coffee in 1908 when the Minden, Germany housewife modified a brass pot, lined it with blotting paper and poured hot water over the grounds. Since then, technology has advanced and Melitta’s new c35 SuperAutomatic features touch screen technology, variable pressure settings, precision controls and programmable memory, but it shares the simple, solid foundation on which the company’s reputation is built. Several reasons justify the expense of a SuperAutomatic. The machines are speedy, they are easy to clean, they take up little space, they are reliable and they are convenient but the most important characteristic by far is consistency, says Reddington. The c35 monitors brew temperature, time and pressure, which can be individually adjusted for each beverage. “It delivers the same drink in the morning and afternoon, regardless of who is operating the equipment,” she says. Convenience and consistency define this class of high-volume machine, but what of the taste? “The quality is excellent,” says Reddington who explains that thanks to automatic monitoring the c35 reduces human error, the most problematic challenge in QSR (Quick Service Restaurant) and high-volume applications. “This machine makes as good a cup as you can make,” she says. “At SCAA we compared it with what they were doing with traditional espresso machines using the same recipe,” says Reddington. “The expectation was that the quality wouldn’t be similar, but it is surprisingly good and that quality is there consistently,” she says. “A barista can deliver the best espresso you have ever had,” she adds. “Some, when you drink their espresso, is almost magical,” but not every barista has a magical touch, and no barista can serve 2000 cups in an eight-hour shift. The c35 comes in four models and can be configured with one or two grinders. Pressure settings are from 0 to 1500 Newtons. The machines feature double boilers and are “clean-in-place”. Water filtration equipment and refrigeration for machines with a milk option are separate. Here are list prices: C35 1 step w/one milk option: $22,995.00 C35 1 step w/2 milk options: $22,995.00 C35 2 step with manual steam: $17,225.00 C35 with auto steam: $17,925.00 The c35 was introduced in February and is currently shipping. They are available through several different channels including distributors and roasters. To learn more visit Melitta SystemService (MSS) at www.MelittaSystemService.com.
10 May 2011
continued on page 12
Judy Ganes President, J Ganes Consulting, LLC
How High is High? Judy Ganes' latest comprehensive report–
“Understanding ENSO and the Real Effect on Tropical Commodities” - is available for purchase. Visit www.JGanesConsulting.com for more information
T
The coffee market had accelerated to the upside and punched through $3.00 per pound for the first time since May 1997 but has since backed off the recent highs. As much as the fundamentals hold promise to become even tighter in 2011-12, the off year for the Brazilian crop, at some point it becomes time to recognize that all the bullish fundamentals are already reflected in the price and look beyond to what will happen next. Bull markets generally die fast and usually sooner than many care to recognize. One need only look at the other soft commodities (sugar, cotton, and cocoa) to see how quickly markets can turn and go from raging bull to bearish in a flash. There are some seasonal factors that suggest the bull’s life expectancy is running short as well as some other telltale signals. The trouble is that that the Brazilian winter is just ahead, where there is always a risk that the world’s largest supplier may have a cold front push north from Argentina and cause frost damage to the more southerly coffee regions of Brazil. The last severe frost was in 1994. The earliest recorded frost was on May 30th, back in 1979. The likelihood of a frost is rather slim. Much of the traditional cold pockets in Parana State no longer even grow coffee. Immediately following the Brazilian winter is when the market will watch for timely rains that will promote the blossoming of the 2012-13 crop. While the upcoming harvest is the off year and will not be sufficient to meet domestic needs as well as international demand for Brazilian coffee, the following crop could be a “monster” and the market will be faced with the potential threat of turning from one of shortage to surplus. This could take some of the steam out of the bull market.
www.jganesconsulting.com As the market has risen it has become more difficult for producers to actually sell their coffee because the trade is reluctant to take on new commitments with the possibility of explosive action and the burden this would place on their finances to meet margin calls on the short hedged position. Roasters are reluctant to add coverage at these higher levels and that is making trading conditions thinner and potentially more volatile. In most bull markets, a signal that the end is near, is when the open interest or the number of outstanding positions starts to drop but prices rise on short covering, usually panic type buying. Most explosive bull markets have very little to do with speculators running amuck and creating the wild trading behavior that drives prices sharply higher. There are other signals to watch as well for signs the bull move may be ending. Certified stocks had been fiercely dropping when supplies were tight and roasters were forced to turn to the coffee that has been graded for delivery against the New York “C” contract, but of late, there has been a steady influx of coffee being graded and certified. It shows that for right now, the spot market demand is being satisfied and the Board is perhaps becoming an attractive buyer of coffee once again, because it is becoming difficult to place the coffee elsewhere. The tightness could easily reassert itself though if the Brazilian harvest is disappointing or Colombia continues to have weather related difficulties. USA Coffee Stocks Starting to Creep Up Again
Slammed!
continued from page 10
Ballenger, who distributes all the major brands, says that choosing the right equipment is critical... but only after you have scouted the site for water and electricity. In most instances one or both are lacking, he says.
The Lance Armstrong cancer prevention ride is more than an hour away. Beall prides himself in the superior coffee he donates to fuel the volunteers so vital to the event.
“Power is one of the biggest considerations,” he says, “Serving that large a crowd comes down to heating lots of water very quickly.” Lining up 10 half-gallon coffee makers in a church hall is sure to blow a fuse. A 100-cup percolator takes an hour to warm up and brew.
Hotels and local convention centers generally invest in their own equipment but retailers should consider pursuing concessions during college or high school football half-time rush or the lines forming for the seventh inning stretch on a fine October afternoon at the four diamond adult league ballpark.
“Some of the bigger equipment takes 440 volts. The 220-volt units are common,” he says. High-volume brewers that produce 4- to up to 45-gallons an hour are typical (the BUNN Titan series makes 22 gallons an hour, enough to make 352 8-oz. cups). Prices range from $2,000 to $12,000.
Cowboy Days hosted by the City of Austin draws a crowd large enough to consume 4,000 cups in two and a half hours. “They have eight real cowboy chuck wagon cooks making cowboy coffee in big enamel kettles,” says Beall, but that is not nearly enough. “We have 250 gallons ready to go by 5 a.m. in 5-gallon thermos, and even then we have to re-brew.”
A stainless steel three gallon electric coffee urn with a 10-gallon reservoir that can brew half batches costs under $2,500 new and 1.5 gallon portable servers are $175 each. “Another thing – remember to limit the cup size to 8 oz.,” says Beall. Using a 12-oz. cup greatly increases your cost and the coffee gets cold while people are talking, leading to unnecessary waste. They can always come back for a second cup, he says. Beall’s crew can make 250 gallons at a time, occasionally returning to re-brew and refill each 5-gallon thermos with hot coffee.
12
Labor is a big consideration. Pre-heating water using boilers late in the evening means you can arrive at 2 a.m. and immediately begin brewing. Quality thermals keep coffee hot for four hours. May 2011
13
Retailer  Profile:  Big City – Big CafÊ – Big Ideas by Maxim Vershinin Metropolis Coffee Company Roasting Garage 1RUWK &ODUN 6WUHHW Chicago, IL. 60640 http://www.metropoliscoffee.com tony@metropoliscoffee.com
“A coffee house should be a neighborhood center. It should be equally a place to relax as a place to plan a revolution. The Boston Tea Party, the storming of the Bastille, and the Russian revolution were all planned at coffee houses.� Metropolis Philosophy
G
ood to know there are some good, oldschool places to hang out, especially when they serve excellent coffee. Being a Russian myself, I always think about revolutions‌just kidding. I met with Tony Dreyfuss, Metropolis’s owner, in order to share his story with you. V. I love your ideas about what a coffee house should be like. Is Metropolis cafÊ living up to your expectations? D. Absolutely! Our cafÊ is pretty big, over 3000 square feet. We could have well over 100 people at any given time; it can be pretty fun and loud with arguments, or it can be really quiet like a library when everyone is working. Plus, most of our customers come from really diverse backgrounds and this is really important to our business, since we praise and regard the differences between people. V. How did your business come to life? D. Sometime around 2002, me and my dad found ourselves at the Coffee Fest in Seattle, where we both got really jacked up on caffeine
and bought a Diedrich IR12 coffee roaster with no place to put it. It was quite an impulse purchase. A year later, the Metropolis cafÊ and roasterie came to life in Chicago. In 2007, we won the MicroRoaster of the Year award, which helped us grow quite a bit, and in 2008, we moved to a separate roasting plant because we felt that we couldn’t control the quality if roasting in more than one location. Now we have two really old Probat roasters – a 15 kilo from the 1930s and a 45 kilo from the 1950, and we expect to roast about 700,000 pounds of coffee this year. That is pretty much the thumbnail history of our company. V. What could you tell us about the coffee scene in Chicago? D. Well, first, there are not nearly as many independent cafÊs in Chicago, as there are even in a much smaller city like Seattle, for example. Coffee culture is just beginning its growth, and everyone who is opening a cafÊ here now is extremely quality focused. Secondly, I think Chicago has a drip coffee culture. Espresso now makes up 60% of what we sell, but when we first opened, over 80% of our sales were drip coffee. So, we really are drip coffee lovers at heart, and I think that it’s pretty common throughout the city of Chicago as well. V. How is the business going during the current economic downturn? D. The business has been amazing; our growth is tremendous, but sustainable. Due to the economy, the rent is low, so we are able to have a bigger space to accommodate everyone, and it turns out that people want to drink coffee no matter what the state of the economy is. But really the strengths of this business are the people that work here: from the ones that work in our cafÊ (we have a really low turnover rate)
14 May 2011
throughout our roasters. We want everyone to have a firm grasp on what they are producing, and because of that we have been able to handle a high rate of growth. V. What do you think makes you unique? D. What I think makes us unique is that many cafÊs have service and space, but they don’t necessarily have the coffee to back it up, and in some places, they have the coffee, but they don’t necessarily have the service and space. I think that we have managed to have the coffee, service and the space - all in one. However, I think what really differentiates us is that we honestly want amazing coffee to be accessible and approachable for people that maybe haven’t had an outstanding coffee before. We don’t want anybody to walk in for the first time and feel stupid if he/she doesn’t understand something. For example, the descriptions of our coffees contain just a few words, and they are not florid. We are not trying to turn people off: we really want people to understand that this is something that anyone can understand. It is just the matter of tasting and coming very much to your own conclusion rather than being told what your conclusion should be. V. Is there something else that you would like to share? D. Yes, to begin with I just wanted to say that none of this would be possible without my father Jeff Dreyfuss. He is a really strong part of the business, and he is very much the face of the company. Secondly, I think that our main purpose in the world is trying to gently continue the process of learning. Like Metropolis as well, we don’t claim to know everything about coffee, we try to keep learning too: for example, over the last three years we have developed a blend just for iced coffee, called Prospero, and this year we have discontinued dark roasting. We have taken roast level completely off our packaging because we feel that our customers are ready for that. And we genuinely feel that our place is to move things to a more learned state, not that we know what it is yet, but we will keep going.
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Water Matters by Claire Vallin
T
oday, we may be at the beginning of what many are now claiming is the fourth-wave of coffee. Never before has more care been taken in selecting beans, roasting them, and brewing them for individual and market consumption. As Keefe Aldstadt of OptiPure explains, “People spend six, eight, even ten thousand dollars on their espresso machines. Baristas are concerned with regulating temperature of water to one or two degrees, concerned with managing pressure, concerned with regulating as many variables they can so they can be assured they will get consistent results every time they pull a shot.” And yet, with all of the care taken to control every variable of extraction and brewing, one glaring aspect of preparation is still often overlooked: water quality. For those who have yet to implement a water filtration system at their coffee shop or at home, consider this: water is around 98% of a typical cup of coffee, and it therefore plays an enormous role in the actual taste of your final product. Aldstadt continues, “the one ingredient that has more variables than all the rest combined is water… and with that said I can’t imagine anyone who is serious about the quality and consistency of their products not focusing on water as much as every other aspect of the business.” Even if your water is already conducive to producing a great cup of coffee, it is important to note that the mineral makeup of water varies a vast amount across the country, and often even across the span of a single city. 3M Purification’s Frank Rossi explains, “Water varies in different parts of the country. That is why it is critical to have the water tested before making a decision on a water treatment device.” The only way to implement a system appropriate to your needs is to first understand what exactly needs to be treated. Fortunately a lot of companies will provide initial water analysis free of charge. For instance, Everpure will mail you a water test and provide you with a complete analysis free of charge when you mail it back. Paying attention to the mineral content of your water can not only improve the taste of your prepared in-store product, but can also help ensure consistency from your business to your customer’s home. If you sell roasted beans, it is important that your customers be able to recreate the coffee they had at your store while at home. In this respect, a water quality standard is necessary to ensure that coffee is appreciated for its actual taste, rather than the mineral makeup of the water in which it is brewed. As Skip Finley of Cirqua Customized Water states, “Coffee should flavor the water, water shouldn’t flavor the coffee.” To this end, the SCAA has published a set of standards regarding mineral content that they consider optimal for coffee brewing. Coffee shop owners can implement water treatment in their stores based on these standards, and then educate and provide resources for their customers to recreate similarly formulated water at home. One great way to ensure customers are getting the same taste at home as they are at your store is The Formula™ by Cirqua Customized Water. The Formula™ is a packet of minerals that when added to distilled water produces optimally formulated water for brewing the best and most consistent coffee possible, without having to purchase expensive filters
or equipment to do so. This is a simple solution for customers, and it can be displayed next to your roasted beans to encourage customer awareness of the impact of water in the coffee brewing process. Not only should water treatment systems be valued for their effect on taste and consistency, but also for their role in the longevity of your brewing equipment. Espresso machines are intricate and complex, and using untreated water to brew espresso can lead to damaging mineral buildup and expensive repair or replacement costs. To this end, implementing a proper water filtration system can be seen as a wise investment to those interested in keeping their machines working properly and their overall costs down. Furthermore, the higher quality product that results from the use of a water treatment system, and the expected increase in profit that is likely to follow can also offset the cost of implementing such a system. To this end, Frank Rossi of 3M Purification comments that proper filtration leads to “better tasting coffee and less equipment down time. The formula we use is: Better Water = Better Coffee = Better Business.” The important thing to keep in mind when pursuing water treatment for your coffee shop or home is that the intelligence of your system will only go as far as the knowledge of your treatment provider. There are many different kinds and combinations of systems, and solutions vary greatly depending on the mineral content of the water you will be using, as well as the volume you expect to use every day. It is advisable to find a treatment provider that is not only familiar with different types of treatment, but that is also familiar with the best water formulation for the coffee industry. Talk to several different providers, ask them what kind of systems they offer, what maintenance costs are like and whether or not they are familiar with water treatment for coffee brewing. Keefe Aldstadt of OptiPure comments, “a lot of companies have knowledge and expertise, and some have more than others, but until you actually talk to someone and find out if you are comfortable working with them it is hard to give relevant advice on how to pick a company. Call them!” Ultimately what is most important is to choose an informed and multi-faceted company that can help you come up with a water solution specific to your unique needs. The specialty coffee industry is evolving rapidly, and more and more companies and cafes are utilizing water treatment systems to keep up. Overall, positive developments in water quality have helped elevate even the most prized coffee to levels that would be impossible without such developments. SCAA’s water quality standards benefit the coffee industry by providing for increased consistency, as well as the ability to more accurately determine quality. Greater adherence to such standards will make the industry more efficient, as coffee at origin can be priced accurately according to its true value. Furthermore, properly treated water can easily decrease operating costs for coffee retailers by reducing equipment repair and service costs. And finally, water treatment systems can help coffee shop owners rest assured that they are delivering a minimally variable product that doesn’t underutilize or under appreciate the quality of the bean.
16 May 2011
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17
Why does a roaster NOT cup?
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by Rocky Rhodes
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n a casual inquiry of those that roast, especially the micro-roasters, every one will say that they cup coffee on a regular basis. Dig a little deeper and one is surprised that many of these roasters mean that they drink coffee on a regular basis. They do not have a formal cupping policy or procedure. Why in the world not? To start to answer this question I did some personal reflection. I started a roasting company in 1997 on a shoestring. Since I wore almost all the hats and was responsible for getting the money in and payroll out, I made choices about how to spend my 15 hour days. Cupping was a task I was unfamiliar with and I did not understand its value so I pushed it to the bottom of the four-page to-do list. Does this sound familiar? We all tend to avoid the uncomfortable and concentrate on that immediate task in front of us. Despite a lack of time and knowledge, it is time to get the cupping program in place. To start, let’s explore why to have one. Then we can move on to how.
Why does a roaster cup?
We cup for two reasons: The first is to find out what is wrong with a coffee. The second is to find out what is beautiful about a coffee. They are done the same way but at different times. When making a buying decision on green coffee a roaster should cup each lot before making a buying decision. If there is something wrong with the lot you want to discover it before you buy it. I know that when you are a small roaster you rely on your broker to do a lot of this work for you. And they should. But you should use the old Ronald Reagan theory of, “Trust but verify� and cup the product yourself. If the green you are buying for a blend component has to have a particular flavor profile you need to verify that it shows in the cup. If you are trying to offer a single varietal that sings and dances in the cup by itself, you need to verify that it shows up in the cup. Later, when we discuss record keeping we will touch on seasonal variances of taste characteristics.
How do I set up my cupping plan?
You can cup finished products in the same way you do green evaluation. The tools are simple but the technique takes practice. Below is a list of tools. What you need now is a process. I suggest the following steps: 1) Buy the tools and get set up. 2) Take a cupping class or get someone to come show you SCAA cupping protocols 3) Set a time each week, (moving towards daily) to cup. No exceptions. For about 3 hours. 4) Always cup with others from your team so you begin to calibrate. 5) Keep a log of everything you cup. History is very important. 6) As you advance, get your Q-Grader certification from Coffee Quality Institute so you will be calibrated with others in the coffee supply chain.
So why are you resistant to starting a plan?
If you do not have a cupping plan I am going to share something with you, which you know to be true deep down in your soul‌ You are a big chicken! You are not sure if you are as good as the marketing you put out as having, “The best coffee in the worldâ€?. If you put a system in place you will have to prove to yourself, and your staff, that you know what you are talking about. More than that, your customers may find out! Well guess what? You are that good! Now you can just set up a system to show others. I had an AHA! moment when I took my first cupping class at a convention. All of a sudden there was a language that others spoke that said what I tasted! I could speak up and calibrate what I tasted with others. They knew what I was saying! A cupping program does this for all members of your company. The tool frees you to make advances in blends, roasting techniques and marketing. You can even educate your customers to create a stronger bond. So, bottom line: Get over your fear of being ‘found out’, take a class, buy the tools, set up the process and cup with your staff. You will get better at cupping and more importantly you will improve both your buying practices and finished product.
When making finished product decisions on single varietals and blends you are exploring your own skills and processes. I learned as my business grew that I had to do what I feared most and hand over control of certain processes to others. Things like roasting and blending. In order to keep control of these essential processes, cupping is the essential tool. In a short and precise exercise you can see if your staff is realizing the cup results you want. You will also be able to critique new blends that are now being invented by your team and discuss them in tangible terms to get to a new product.
Item
Quantity
Notes
Cupping Table
1
Can be tall for standing or short for seated
Cups
About 50
Glass or porcelain [Note 1]
Spoons
About 10
Silver plated preferred by author
Cupping forms
1 soft copy
SCAA web site has them
Hot water heaters
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NewsBites
Don Francisco’s NEW Family Reserve Coffee Pods
Don Francisco’s Family Reserve reflects the art of four generations of passion for coffee. We select only the world’s best beans and then roast them to perfection. Now available! Don Francisco’s Family Reserve single-serve pods are available in a variety of best-selling coffees including: Vanilla Nut, 100% Colombia Supremo and Decaf 100% Colombian. Let your customers discover the fine art of coffee in each cup. Order your single-serve pods today! For more information, contact F. Gaviña at sales. support@gavina.com www.gavina.com.
Press Lid Covers It All: Now Available for 12oz Cups
SmartCup, Inc., is now shipping XPress lid for 12 oz. hot cups, the industry's first disposable and recyclable singleserve French Press built into a lid. The lids fit standard 12 oz., 16 oz., and 20 oz. disposable hot cups. The XPress lid, a three piece French press system, delivers a far richer flavor and superior tasting coffee and tea than conventionally brewed beverages. The French press delivers more of the oils and flavor of the bean in each cup. With the XPress lid, there is no additional capital expense involved in offering a premium beverage. It is simple to use and easy to train employees. The XPress lid provides a fresh, high-quality, single cup of coffee brewed faster than other single serve methods. Cafés are achieving premium pricing over brewed coffees and are earning espresso-like profits. Many operators also are tapping into a new revenue stream by offering premium tea through this innovative single-use system.
0RFRQ ÀUVW WR RIIHU DOO LQ one testing for packages with degassing valves
MOCON, Inc. (NASDAQ: MOCO) is introducing the MultiCheck™ 400—a new, firstof-its-kind combination testing system for packages with one-way degassing valves. In addition to measuring oxygen (O2) headspace, leak detection and seal strength, the MultiCheck™ 400 also measures one-way degassing valve performance via MOCON’s new Valve Test Unit™ (VTU). Because four different tests are combined into one unit, the MultiCheck™ 400 system significantly impacts time, labor and samples needed to conduct individual testing. Instead of destroying four different packages to conduct the same number of tests, a single package cycles through all of the analysis on one unit. The MultiCheck 400™ unit is ideally suited for flexible packages with degassing valves. Applications include: coffee, pet food, agricultural chemicals, resins, medical and others, which require pressure relief. See www.mocon.com for more information.
BaristaBoxTM Launches Its 3rd Generation Beverage Container
20
Floorstock inventories began ramping up in 96, 128 & 160 oz. sizes of the latest BaristaBoxTM creation, the“KeySlot” (Patent Pending) coffee/beverage server in early May 2011. Building on coffee-in-bulk growth, for take-out and catering, the “Key-Slot” box is responding to market demand for faster set-up, improved filling, more secure spout retention features to guard against spillage, better “hold times” and easy-carry comfort. But just as important, the diverse 5-member BaristaBoxTM family is meeting the ongoing needs of
one-way beverage service to the expanding market niches that reach almost all Food & Beverage segments … caterers, coffeehouses, bakery-café’s, deli’s, donut & bagel shops, gourmet markets, casual dining, the HRI category, as well as special events/new product promo’s & samplings and the list goes on. For more information, visit www.baristabox.com.
Melitta SystemService launches new super automatic espresso machine at NAFEM
Melitta SystemService launched their latest addition to their super automatic espresso machine line with the Melitta c35. At the touch of a button, the c35 grinds whole beans and using fresh milk, delivers cappuccinos, lattes, coffee and espresso for commercial applications. Melitta SystemService is known for super automatic espresso technology that is engineered for long lasting performance and the c35 is no different. It features Clean In Place technology, Mahlkönig grinders, and the Automatic Coffee Quality System which monitors and adjusts the grinders, piston pressure, water temperature and infusion time.”
LBP hot beverage solutions
LBP Manufacturing’s hot beverage solutions are designed to build your business. Customers will appreciate the sturdy, insulating Calyx® paper hot cup, leading to repeat business. Use Beverage on the Move™ to build a bulk beverage program. Available in 96 oz., 160 oz. and 3-gallon sizes, serving coffee to go has never been easier. For more information, visit www.lbpmfg.com.
Boyd Coffee Company Relaunches Island Mist ® Fresh Brewed Iced Tea
Introducing a brand new Island Mist Fresh Brewed Iced Tea brought to you by Boyds Coffee®. New products, equipment, flavors and an eye-catching design will drive profits for operators in all market segments. Fresh brewed iced teas meet consumer demand for high-quality, natural, refreshing flavors with health benefits. Island Mist teas include black and green tea, as well as flavored varieties such as Strawberry Peach and Organic Green Tea with Mango. New merchandising features charming, impactful beach scenes that inspire iced tea purchases. To discuss Island Mist products, contact your Boyd Coffee Company representative or call 1-800-5454077.
6WXG\ VKRZV *HRUJLD 3DFLÀF Professional’s Dixie® hot cup preferred by consumers
According to a recent study sponsored by Georgia-Pacific Professional on consumer preferences for premium disposable hot cups, the company’s Dixie® PerfecTouch® Insulated Paper Hot Cup is preferred over its foam counterpart. The PerfecTouch Insulated Paper Hot Cup was perceived as a higher quality cup, outperforming foam at a statistically significant level in overall cup preference, quality of cup and best coffee drinking experience. Results revealed that a large number of coffee customers perceive the quality of a foodservice establishment to be better if beverages are served in a Dixie PerfecTouch Insulated Paper Hot Cup, and consumers would more often frequent a facility that utilizes PerfecTouch. Texture and feel played a large role in consumer preference May 2011
of PerfecTouch over foam. Also, data shows that customers expect to pay up to 50 cents more for a cup of coffee served in a PerfecTouch hot cup. GeorgiaPacific Professional offers the PerfecTouch hot cup in popular cup sizes (8-, 10-, 12-, 16-, 20- and 24-oz) and aesthetically pleasing cup designs, including Whimsy, Coffee Dreams and Simply White. To learn more about PerfecTouch and other innovations from Georgia-Pacific Professional, please call 866-HELLO GP (435-5647) or locate the foodservice section of the www.gppro.com Web site.
Perk Dynamics Releases Hotel VIP Solution
Perk Dynamics, Inc. has created a solution to meet the demand for 24/7 gourmet coffee service in the hotel industry. This solution can be remotely monitored by the hotel staff through a web portal or integrate to the hotels’ management system. The gourmet bean to cup coffee solution connects to the hotel’s Property Management System providing integration with loyalty systems and enabling tiered pricing. Working with WMF systems provides fresh on demand coffee by the cup whenever the guest requests without the waste associated with packet coffee and provides the quality essential for guest satisfaction. The roasters can also have access to brewing statistics and error messages through the web portal to insure customer supplies are kept up to date, the machine is in proper operation and that only your beans are being used. Visit www.perkdynamics.com for more info.
Weldon Blueberry Flavoring For Coffee – What a Concept!!
Weldon Flavorings owes the inspiration for its new Flavor Creation to the New England states. After learning of the popularity of Blueberry Coffee from one our customers and with his encouragement, Weldon Flavorings decided to create a new coffee flavoring for Blueberry Lovers. Now they can have it at their fingertips. And yes ‘Blueberry Pancakes’ flavoring is sugar free, as well as free of any artificial sweeteners, creamers, powders, and syrups. Because these pure liquid flavorings are not pre-sweetened, each cup of coffee can be made unsweetened or sweetened to each individual’s taste. With 0 calories per serving and allergen free it’s the healthy way to enjoy your coffee, cappuccino, and lattes flavored. Each comes in a pre-measured pump bottle that allows for quick and accurate flavoring. For more information please contact Weldon Flavorings at 502-797-2937 or visit them online at www.weldonflavorings.com.
Tiki Tea, Wow Your Water!
Tiki Tea™ Instant Mix is a perfect balance of natural tropical flavors, blended with rich black and green teas, and sweetened naturally with ultra fine pure cane sugar. Paradise on Demand! Less bad more good. Food service and concession operators say Tiki Tea™ is the #1 asked for drink, great profit margins, long shelf life, easy to prepare and store. No equipment needed! Tiki Tea™ is a “Feel Good” beverage. We make no claims that consuming our beverage will keep you alert for hours, perfectly shape your body or able you to run faster than trains. Quenching your thirst with a glass of Tiki Tea™ on a hot summer day is what we call “a vacation in a glass.” For a Tiki Tea™ Tropical “vacation in a glass” sample kit... get a boarding pass at www. shakeyourteas.com or call The “Big Kahuna” for passport info, 508-864-3926.
Advertisers Index Company....................................................... Phone........................... Web........................................................ Page................NRA Booth
3M Purifications Inc.................................................................. 866.990.9785.......................... www.cunofoodservice.com ........................................ 17............................1612 Antica Tostatura Triestina S.p.A............................................ 201.851.7805.......................... www.anticaespresso.com ........................................... 5............................... Boyd Coffee Company........................................................... 800.545.4077.......................... www.boyds.com .......................................................... 22............................4342 Bridge Brand Chocolates........................................................ 415.677.9194.......................... www.bridgebrandschocolate.com ........................... 23............................ BriteVision.................................................................................. 877.479.7777.......................... www.britevision.com ................................................... 21............................ ChefTec/Culinary Software Services, Inc............................ 303.447.3334.......................... www.culinarysoftware.com ....................................... 22............................4252 Chemex Corporation............................................................... 800.243.6399.......................... www.chemexcoffeemaker.com ................................. 18............................ Coffee Fest................................................................................ 800.232.0083.......................... www.coffeefest.com ................................................... 19............................ Display Cafe Ltd...................................................................... 905.799.8197.......................... www.innovatedproductsmfg.com ............................. 22............................ Ditting USA, Inc......................................................................... 810.367.7125.......................... www.ditting.com .......................................................... 22............................ Eagle Web Press...................................................................... 800.800.7980.......................... www.eaglewebpress.com .......................................... 15............................ Espresso Americano-Honduras.............................................. +504.2231.0711.................... www.espresso-americano.com ................................. 23............................ Everpure.................................................................................... 630.790.1092.......................... www.everpure.com ..................................................... 23............................3114 Favorite Cup Coffee............................................................... 401.724.8666.......................... www.myfavoritecoffeecup.com ................................ 22............................ Gavi単a Gourmet Coffee........................................................ 800.428.4627.......................... www.gavina.com ......................................................... 23............................ Georgia Pacific-Dixie............................................................. 866.435.5647.......................... www.gppro.com .......................................................... 9...............................6432 Inbru........................................................................................... 314.991.1700.......................... www.inbru.com ............................................................ 22............................ Java Jacket............................................................................... 800.208.4128.......................... www.javajacket.com .................................................. 13, 23.....................450 Knutsen Coffees, Ltd................................................................ 800.231.7764.......................... www.knutsencoffees.com ........................................... 23............................ KoffeeLink................................................................................. 703.774.5436.......................... www.koffeelink.com ................................................... 22............................ LBP Manufacturing................................................................... 800.545.6200.......................... www.lbpmfg.com ........................................................ 17............................1609 Melitta SystemService USA, Inc............................................ 847.717.8900.......................... www.melittasystemservice.com .................................. 11............................3438 Monin Gourmet Flavorings..................................................... 800.966.5225.......................... www.monin.com ........................................................... 23............................1268 Orleans Coffee Exchange...................................................... 800.344.7922.......................... www.orleanscoffee.com ............................................ 15............................ OTB Packaging LLC................................................................. 419-356-8348........................ www.baristabox.com ................................................. 13, 15.....................450 Pacific Bag, Inc.......................................................................... 800.562.2247.......................... www.pacificbag.com .................................................. 23............................ Pack Plus Converting............................................................... 909.902.9929.......................... www.packplus.com ..................................................... 18............................ Perk Dynamics, Inc.................................................................... 919.851.3221.......................... www.perkdynamics.com ............................................ 22............................5460 Scolari Engineering S.p.A....................................................... 856.988.5533.......................... www.scolarieng.com ................................................... 24............................ Service Ideas, Inc..................................................................... 800.328.4493.......................... www.serviceideas.com ............................................... 23............................2818 SmartCup, Inc............................................................................ 530.889.1754.......................... www.mysmartcup.com ................................................ 15............................ Stalkmarket Products (Asean Corporation)......................... 503.295.4977.......................... www.stalkmarketproducts.com ................................. 2, 23.......................4338 Tightpac America inc............................................................... 888.428.4448.......................... www.tightvac.com ....................................................... 23............................7828 Tiki Tea....................................................................................... 508.393.7625.......................... www.shakeyourteas.com ............................................ 22............................ Tomlinson Industries.................................................................. 866.269.1303.......................... www.tomlinsonind.com ............................................... 23............................7625 Vessel Drinkware...................................................................... 866.876.8282.......................... www.vesseldrinkware.com ........................................ 17............................ Vita-Mix Corporation.............................................................. 800.437.4654.......................... www.vitamix.com/thequietone ................................. 6, 7, 23..................3413, 3289A Weldon Flavorings................................................................... 502.797.2937.......................... www.WeldonFlavorings.com ..................................... 22............................ White Coffee Corp................................................................. 718.204.7900.......................... www.whitecoffee.com ................................................ 23............................ Wilbur Curtis............................................................................. 800.421.6150.......................... www.wilburcurtis.com ................................................. 3...............................4018, 4022
21
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22 May 2011
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:LWK RI WKH ÀQHVW à DYRUHG V\UXSV VDXFHV and purees available to the coffee industry, Monin ensures ultimate taste and creativity for successful beverage solutions.
800.221.0140 www.whitecoffee.com White Coffee creates customized blends and packaging for industry leaders. Wide variety RI YDULHWDOV DQG Ă DYRUV available. Exclusive licensee RI .DKOXD Ă DYRUHG FRIIHH Fair Trade, Organic, Kosher, 16) FHUWLĂ€HG
Air Pot Stations are designed to accommodate air pots (not included) of virtually any size and are available in a single or double Station. Each features a divided organizer, stainless steel drip tray and air pot riser.
Erna Knutsen, President & Founder.
Monin
Espresso AmericanoÂŽ
IUDQTXLFLDV#HVSUHVVR americano.com PASSION FOR COFFEE, FROM BEAN TO CUP Franchise opportunities available worldwide for Espresso AmericanoÂŽ: a Honduran specialty coffee grower/roaster/retailer, guided with a true passion for coffee. Interested investors are welcome to contact email above.