Leaders & Luminaries 2021 Issue

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THIS ISSUE: MAKING A DIFFERENCE IN COFFEE

LEADERS & LUMINARIES 2021 | Vol. XXXIV No.3


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CONTENTS

LEADERS & LUMINARIES ISSUE 2021

06 08 10 ASSAAD BENABID The Collector

12

GRUPPO CIMBALI

GILBERT GITALI The Lifter

Roasting Guru

Leaders & Luminaries KERRI GOODMAN & JAKE LEONTI

RICK PEYSER The Humanitarian

LUTHERAN WORLD RELIEF

JEN HURD The Sharer

VOLCAFE SPECIALTY COFFEE

SARAH DOOLEY

A Quiet Force of Connection and Inspiration

18

BREVILLE GROUP

14

ROOTS ORIGIN

KARL SCHMIDT

THE VIEW

CESAR VEGA

22

One to Watch

CAFÉ INTEGRAL

16

ANNOUNCEMENTS

24

DIEDRICH ROASTERS

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KERRI GOODMAN kerri@coffeetalk.com { 206.686.7378 x1 }

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JAKE LEONTI jake@coffeetalk.com { x2 }

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CoffeeTalk Magazine

THE VIEW { Leaders & Luminaries }

KERRI GOODMAN & JAKE LEONTI

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ratitude and recognition; They go hand-in-hand. Science has shown that gratitude can have a physical impact on our health and well-being, and I am a true believer! With this in mind, we created our “Making a Difference” issue more than a decade ago. Almost 30 years ago I entered this industry as a newcomer and was so very grateful to be on the

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ny societal success is ultimately ref lected in its culture. The culture ref lects the values of that society in customs, activities, and what it chooses to celebrate. We could choose to celebrate the most monetarily successful companies or those regarded as the highest quality or most well-known; however, we have chosen to celebrate something we feel is more valuable. We are celebrating the individuals that share. The mentors, guides, elders, and newcomers that not only have something to offer but go ahead and offer it up.

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receiving end of generous industry luminaries who took time out of their enormously busy schedules to provide mentorship andd help me discover and support this amazing industry. As we all know, coffee is more like a family than an industry and I know I am desperately missing our face-to-face industry gatherings. It is my hope that sharing appreciation for yesterday’s, todays and tomorrow’s leaders will help provide some continued connection.

It is with enormous gratitude we present this year's Leaders & Luminaries issue with a special focus on mentorship. Each of these seven industry professionals has been recognized by their industry peers for their mentorship and contribution to the industry.

Coffee had a long history of monopoly and secrecy with many heavy barriers to entry. Those barriers have slowly lowered over time, and the culture of secrecy and exclusivity has changed. It is important to celebrate those among us that show leadership and, more importantly, share leadership and cultivate the next generation to grow in a way that maintains the values we are establishing. We went looking for lifters; Individuals that give to their network and communities and raise them up a little higher.

never elect to tell you about their great deeds, so we had to rely on our community to nominate people who had made a difference in their lives. We received many entries and a lot of impassioned proponents of their nominees. It is my hope that others find inspiration in the example these individuals have set and pay that forward to their communities. Thank you.

As I have often found the case with people of this caliber, they would

Kerri

Jake COFFEETALK MAGAZINE



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The Humanitarian

RICK PEYSER { Lutheran World Relief } JAKE LEONTI | COFFEETALK

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hen a person commits themselves entirely to a mission within the coffee industry, they can often achieve tremendous things. Rick Peyser started his coffee career in the 1980s and has continued to be a positive influence and sincere advocate for coffee farmers worldwide. "I've now had the privilege of working with Rick on multiple projects and initiatives as collaborations between our respective organizations over the last few years and can honestly say I've never met anyone who is more dedicated to coffee farmers. The wisdom, expertise, compassion, and open heart he brings to all work is unparalleled," states Cory Gilman of Heifer International, an organization that supports farmers in 21 countries. Rick served as Director of Social Advocacy and Coffee Community Outreach for Keurig Green Mountain for 27 years. During this period, he also managed to serve for six years on the Board of Directors of the Fair Trade Labeling Organizations International (FLO) as well as President of SCA. Since then, Mr. Peyser has continued to focus his energy on helping others with his expertise. This included sitting as a member of the board of directors for Project Alianza, which is an organization dedicated to providing education for kids on coffee farms. Cory Gilman continues, "On a personal level, Rick always has time to

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chat through concerns or questions, providing guidance in career development and professional growth. I can always count on Rick for an ear that truly listens, words that encourage and support, and arms that are outstretched to point in the right direction. He opens up his vast network without hesitation, proactively going above and beyond to make connections." Mr. Peyser's influence goes beyond his personal impact as his legacy grows with the organization he has co-founded, including Food 4 Farmers, which aims to provide meals for families that are at risk of food insecurities in coffee-producing regions. Additionally, his book, "Brewing Change, Behind the Bean at Green Mountain Coffee Roasters," serves as an inspiration to current and future coffee professionals hoping to make a positive impact as well. "Despite being an industry legend, he is humble without compare and never stops for a moment to celebrate his success-- it's always 'what more can I do?' A true servant leader, the impact he has made not only on me and countless others who call him mentor but thousands of coffee producers," Cory Gilman advocates for his mentor. Leadership is a crucial element to any goal's success. Rick Peyser has been a success over the years and has led others to success. This is an exceedingly rare quality, and it is clearly celebrated in the testimonial given by Cory Gilman. LEADERS & LUMINARIES | 2021

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The Sharer

JEN HURD { Volcafe Specialty Coffee } JAKE LEONTI | COFFEETALK

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n the Pacific Northwest, there is a rich culture and history in the coffee industry, and it is pretty easy to find knowledgeable coffee professionals. Among them is the very dynamic Jen Hurd, who has been in the business for over 20 years. “She has been a barista, a lead in barista training, cafe consulting, roasted sales, green sales, competition judging,” explains Joey Gleason, owner at Buckman Coffee in Portland, OR. “Jen has such an incredible knowledge of the industry top to bottom, which I feel is unique.” From her beginnings as a barista and supervisor at Supreme Bean Coffee, she was always motivated and brought a positive attitude. “I first started out right out of high school in the late ’90s. It was the height of coolness to be a barista. I thought it was going to be a college job. When I got my degree, I was sure I would be a social worker forever and… I made it six months. After being a barista and cafe manager for eight years, a coffee sales job came up, and I was interested. that was in 2007. That’s when I made the decision that coffee was the path for me.” Jen explains. After 22 years in the industry, Ms. Hurd has an extensive network of supporters, and she wants to pass that on. Jen continues, “I want to make the coffee industry a little better each day if I can. Whether it’s helping someone get into a competition or find resources or highlighting and promoting how much good work there is out there. Not everyone can work for a company

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that has the resources or the desire to help elevate them in the industry.” Of course, part of this comes from the feelings of gratitude she has for some of her mentors and supporters in the industry like “Joey and Cassy Gleason, co-owners of Buckman Coffee Factory and Marigold Coffee Roasters, Marcus Young at Boot Coffee, Teresa Von Fuchs at Bellwether and Mauricio Jimenez, GM of GO and VSC as well as Rich Futrell, NA Sales Manager at Caravela. Jen reflects, “I can go to them with any question, and they would help me out.” These are extremely valuable relationships that help create a culture of growth. Jen continues, “I am very fortunate that I am Oregon born and raised, and my whole coffee career has been in the Willamette Valley.” Being a coffee pro in a town of coffee pros is a testament to her skills and likability. Jen is the current President of the Oregon Coffee Board and is excited to bring her enthusiasm for providing support to the coffee community to her work with the executive board. The challenge is that traditionally this would involve in-person functions meant to build community. She is not discouraged by this and is certain that they will find new ways to engage and instruct their community.

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The Collector

ASSAAD BENABID { Gruppo Cimbali S.p.A. / USA Inc } JAKE LEONTI | COFFEETALK

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here have been many minor mentors in my life. Elders, I have gleaned wisdom from whether they were serving it on purpose or not. I've always watched those that came before me, hoping to get some key insight into how to live that would make my life richer, easier, or at least, with fewer mistakes. It wasn't until I met Assaad Benabid, CEO of Gruppo Cimbali North America, that I found a true mentor that was consistently there for me and only taught by how he lived and what he valued Assaad has worked in the coffee business since the early '80s, always for espresso machine companies and always in a variation of a sales role. Assaad put quite a dent in the American coffee culture by helping change perception and create exposure to espresso and the European lifestyle and attitude toward enjoying espresso. Assaad was pushing FAEMA espresso machines and sharing his joy for espresso in a time in the US when most of the country was drinking coffee out of a can. "I started in a very, very small industry and now it has become a big industry. I'm happy to see that I played a small role in that. That I was a part of that puzzle," Assaad recalls. Pioneering espresso machine sales in the US was not the most valuable contribution that Assaad would bring to the coffee industry. Anyone that knows Assaad understands that

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the true genius of Assaad Benabid is his relationships, how he creates them, fosters, and grows them. You could go to dinner with Assaad in just about any country in the world and you will find yourself surrounded by his friends from all different levels of the food and beverage industry. You could be eating with anyone from Howard Schultz down to the local barista. He collects people the way some of us collect stamps or coins. He cares for them, polishes them, and in return they shine for him. This is his gift. This amazing ability begins with Assaad’s most early mentors, his parents. Growing up in Morocco, Assad’s father was a very important figure in the community. Being a police chief, he would sometimes have houseguests that included heads

of state. At that same dinner party, his father would have his favorite fishmonger or baker over as well. This was his way, he would have friends from all walks of life at opposite ends of the social scale and he would bring them together, make them feel welcome, and find the common ground that they all had and share. Assaad's mother was also instrumental in his worldview as she would always say, "be good and generous with your sentiments, sharing food, and being a friend. It will always open doors and lead to good things." Mr. Benabid spent a lot of time in cafes in Tangier's which was, "A city with a lot of flare" he remembers. "Very international. People of all different backgrounds, languages, and religions. We were all different, yet we all loved to have a cup of coffee or mint tea. This was our pleasure in the morning and at the end of the day. It was a place to meet people and learn the way the town works and its social structure, it was a forum. A good coffee with a good taste was always a real pleasure." It was in Tangier that Mr. Benabid grew up with Arabic and French as his COFFEETALK MAGAZINE


first languages. Then Spanish followed with its proximity to Morocco. Later Assaad would pick up English in time to attend Skidmore College and then Columbia School of International Affairs where he was meaning to become a mediator in International diplomacy. "I wanted to take two people or parties that were fighting and then bring them together and say, 'why are you fighting?' 'Ok, let's figure it out over a cup of coffee," Assaad explains. Assaad always starts with food and coffee as key insights into anyone's culture. From there he can start to understand them. This is where he begins to connect. Then his ability with languages takes over. He speaks five languages, each with a perfect accent and fluidity to the point that you couldn't guess which one came first. This incredible skill with language is one of his strongest tools for connecting with most people on the planet. Riding in a car on your way into New York City you will find him interrupt your conversation with intermittent phone calls where he transitions from English to French to Italian back to English smoother than his car shifts gears. Beyond this ability and worldly point of view, ultimately it is his respect for all people that allows him to make friends wherever he goes. Assaad truly cares about people and is interested in what they have to say. He is happy to take his time and chit-chat with the parking attendant getting his car WWW.COFFEETALK.COM

or the short-order cook where he's picking up lunch. He is never in too big a rush to communicate, listen and try to understand the other person. It is this consistent attitude and spirit that he brings to all interactions that attract people to him and make them want to return the respect. Then he continues to feed the relationship and it grows and grows over time. Before you know it, you've been friends for over ten years. Assaad once explained to me on one of our drives to the city, "I am constantly feeding my network. I listen to what each person needs and then I try to give that to them however I can." Finally, I ask Assaad, what message would you pass along to the next generation of coffee professionals? He thinks, but only for a moment, and answers rather quickly, "Patience. This is a very important quality that I notice most people don't have. Often people can be in such a hurry and focused on themselves that they don't give the time of day to someone unless they think it will benefit them in some way. We could be at a trade show and vagabond could show up to my booth and I will connect with them and offer them a coffee. For me, it is all the same. For me, it is a pleasure to speak to people: a barista, a major executive, or the janitor, it's all the same. When you give someone your time and respect and they feel you shift your attention and give them positive body language it makes a remarkable impact."

The energy Assaad brings to any exchange transforms his guests and has earned him a lasting reputation and a variety of nicknames include: "The King of Coffee," "Mr. FAEMA," "The Dean," and "The President." Assaad explains, "I received this respect without asking for it. I thought it was a joke at first but then it kept happening and people kept giving me these titles." "Be true to the way that you do the job and the people you work with. I always thought my job was creating a way of life rather than selling machines." Assaad finishes. I agree completely. The joy he brings to his work and to all the people he surrounds himself with is infectious and keeps everyone coming back. Coffee has been a relationship business for many generations and only recently has that chain started to weaken. Relationships are what allows us to achieve great things on our merit with only our level of creativity and drive to limit our achievements. The bonds we make are things that remain even as an economy crumbles. It is only when we come together and remember those we have known in the past and help each other that we can rebuild that which is broken. Assaad's way of life is exactly the kind of example we need to keep in mind today as we rebuild for the future.

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The Lifter

GILBERT GITALI { Roots Origin }

JAKE LEONTI | COFFEETALK

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ilbert Gitali is one of those magnetic people that draws you in immediately. He is quick with a smile and always looking to join you in a laugh. He gives everyone he is around the benefit of the doubt. Mr. Gitali has been in the coffee business since 2006, when he started representing Sustainable Harvest in East Africa. It was serendipitous because he had just decided he was going to move back to Rwanda after a long period in Canada, and he didn't know what he was going to do when he got there. Gilbert had studied International Development and Social Cultural Anthropology at the University of Toronto, so he could have gone in a variety of directions. Instead, he was introduced to David Griswold through his sister, and SH was looking for someone in that region. Through SH, Mr. Gitali would learn all aspects of the coffee industry and develop the relationships that would serve him well throughout his career. Gilbert would go on to build his resume working with a variety of

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export companies in Rwanda, including RWASHOSSCO and KZ Noir LTD. However, being the self—proclaimed "serial entrepreneur" that he is, Gilbert had to start his own companies. First, with a coffee shop, Neo Coffee, which is a bit of a novelty in Kigali as there are not many. Gilbert was driven by his message, "I wanted to introduce high-quality coffee to people here. I thought it was interesting that we were growing and producing some of the greatest coffees in the world, and you couldn't have one to drink in Kigali." I thought it would be fantastic to share this gem that we had with the end consumer. Normally it is being consumed miles and miles away from us. It is much different to get to enjoy it with people every day. Being born in Africa and then moving to Canada when he was thirteen years old, Gilbert has always felt that Rwanda was his true home, and that is where he wanted to live and make an impact. This is part of the passion that drives him to continue his work, and it underlies all his business endeavors. "The more I can put Rwanda on the map in the coffee world, help

increase prices of Rwandan coffee and increase what farmers make and have a better livelihood, that would be a fantastic impact," Gilbert explains. He continues, "Being part of the transformation of what can be done with Rwandan coffee. That's what is important. Ensuring that coffee is a business that is an impactful business and that it must transform people's lives. Those that are around me, mainly the farmers that I work with, the staff, the team." Gilbert goes on to make the point that from the farm to the cafe, there are many hands involved in making the coffee. For the most part, on the consumer side, they are enjoying their experience with the coffee while paradoxically, the farmers growing the coffee are not enjoying their experience. They are not living in the best conditions and not earning enough for the work they are performing. Gilbert passionately states, "I want to be part of creating that fun for someone enjoying the coffee at home and that the growers are also enjoying their part of the coffee chain."

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Roasting Guru

KARL SCHMIDT { Diedrich Roasters }

JAKE LEONTI | COFFEETALK

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ome mentors are personal, and we get to keep them all to ourselves. Some mentors only have the time or energy for one person. This is not the case for Karl Schmidt, President of Diedrich Coffee Roasters. Mr. Schmidt has been in the coffee industry for more than 40 years. Hundreds of coffee professionals consider him their mentor. Some of these people have never even met Karl directly but clammer to get into the room to catch one of his speeches. “Everyone wants to hear what he has to say,” says Launtia Taylor, his long-time friend, and colleague. “He would have 300 people in the room and have people trying to listen in from the hallway. His knowledge of roasting in different types of environments and processing of coffee is incredible. Karl is always giving. He will stay and answer questions for an hour after the lecture is over.” In 2013, Karl was recognized by the SCA as the recipient of the Outstanding Contribution to the Industry award. Coffee technology is the priority. Karl also shares this knowledge with consumers and businesses in the industry as needed. He has been a staunch supporter of the International Women in Coffee Organization since its inception. Mrs. Taylor continues, “For three years Karl stopped his public speaking, and everyone kept asking when he’ll be back. Finally, he accepted the SCA invitation back to do a speech for their conference in Boston a couple of years ago. They had him scheduled for a Sunday morning which is normally the worst

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time. Everyone is exhausted from the show and all the parties on Saturday. Despite all this, the room was packed. People made the effort to attend the lecture to hear what Karl had to say.” Karl has a master’s degree in Engineering and Business Administration and over the years has demonstrated leadership skills in significantly improving the bottom line of the companies he managed. Karl has an excellent understanding of the global business environment in the various disciplines related to Systems, Plant Design, Process Technology and Implementation. He is passionate about sharing his global business perspective and knowledge and accomplishes this by giving talks and giving presentations at the SCA and other organizations. He is wellversed in the coffee and confectionery industries in North America and is a well-known speaker at industry events such as the NCA, SCA, and RG. “Roasting Technology,” “Mitigating Environmental Emissions from Coffee Roasting Facilities,” and “The Effects of Thermal Dynamics during Roasting, including Heat Transfer in the process COFFEETALK MAGAZINE


and Implementation of Various Roasting Technologies and Roaster Designs,” are just a few of his topics. Karl is very proactive in educating the coffee community about the constantly evolving landscape of environmental problems the industry faces. Karl led the team responsible for putting together the equipment, plan, installation, and startup for the first Starbucks Reserve Roastery on Capitol Hill in Seattle. This was to become a mecca for the coffee industry and has undoubtedly become a ‘must visit’ for anyone traveling to Seattle. In 2016, after 27 years, Mr. Schmidt left Probat to run another roasting equipment manufacturer, Diedrich Coffee Roasters. Karl continues to oversee Diedrich and remains a mentor to many across the country. Karl is renowned for his ability to really listen to his clients and help them succeed in their businesses. “He is brutally honest and sometimes tells

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you what you don’t want to hear but what you need to hear. Almost anyone you ask, ‘Who is Karl Schmidt,’ will tell you he helped provided service or simply advise to build their business. I often hear stories of roasters having a problem with their equipment and wanting a new one. Karl would frequently say, ‘before you make an investment in a new roaster we need to make sure you are utilizing your existing equipment to its fullest capacity and potential’,” shares Mrs. Taylor. Karl Schmidt continues to work tirelessly to give advice and provide guidance to people throughout the industry. The latest industry collaboration effort is the Diedrich / Firedancer Coffee Roasting Forum scheduled for May 20th (more information at diedrichroasters. com) where he advocates the need for sustainable solutions in today’s conflicting environment of businesses and facilities within the coffee and cocoa engineering field of operations.

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A Quiet Force of Connection and Inspiration

SARAH DOOLEY { Breville Group } MAJOR COHEN

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ef lect for a moment on an imagined solicitation for the names of leaders/luminaries who have touched you. As I did just that, I quickly landed on the many people who have touched me thanks to a remarkable 19-year career as a high-school art/photo teacher and a subsequent 25 ½ years as a coffee educator with Starbucks.

less representative of what I have seen as a marvelous community that exists with abundance within the ranks of the coffee industry today. People who transcend brands and self-interest to support colleagues and even strangers in our shared efforts to bring coffee to life-for ourselves and others. No one has done that for me more than Sarah Dooley. Sarah has been in coffee for 27 years. Starbucks, Caffe D'arte, Visions Espresso Seattle, Espresso Parts, Olympia Coffee, La Marzocco, Baratza, Pete's Milk, Slayer, and Breville, highlight her work resume. Numerous

Of course, I thought first of the more well-known names. For me, that was Howard Schultz, Dave Olsen, Mary Williams, Ted Lingle, and Alfred Peet, to name just a few. Famous folks, but

independent entrepreneurial projects in not only coffee but in landscaping, commercial fishing, product development, and film production. She has been a chapter Chair for the Barista Guild of America, competed in NW Regional and USBC championships, and is a USBC accredited sensory judge. She collaborated and was a featured speaker in the RECO This is Milk. https://youtu.be/26dhxNqFjI4 I met Sarah at Visions Espresso Seattle in 2009. She was managing a new training facility and programming for them and shared this about that venture.

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LEADERS & LUMINARIES | 2021

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SARAH DOOLEY Continued from page 19

"Visions was a pinnacle growth change for me. I launched out in total faith to Dawn and Pat Loraas (owners) pitching a concept no one was doing"Let's build a hub for coffee people of all types to test gear, take or host training and rent as a venue, open all year round." I worked for Starbucks as a project manager and was responsible for Starbucks venture into newly inspired cafes. I was working quietly as the project was not being shared with the public until we opened. I needed a collaborator from the non-Starbucks side of coffee to partner with me and help bring the project to fruition. Due to her huge heart and desire to bring ALL coffee people together in a stronger community, Sarah was that person. Always a champion for the barista and always assuming positive intent despite the competitive climate in which we live. I often reflect on the actual conversation we had as it represented a pivotal moment. I had not shared any details with anyone outside of the corporation, and I was standing in Visions' talking coffee' and the state of the industry with a stranger. In only a few minutes, I found myself hearing what she was saying, both about her own experiences but also her philosophy for community and critique of many of the barriers that existed then and, to a large degree, still exist today. While listening, I remember thinking to myself that this person is the first person I will trust with the details of what I am working on. She { 20 }

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will openly collaborate, be completely trustworthy, and expect the same from the team we built together and me. We became great friends, and I have shared this story and admired her many times over the last 12 years.

searching for ways to welcome new thoughts and voices into every conversation in which she's a part. I don't know if I can think of a less dogmatic person in coffee, and I hope that we all take that page out of Sarah's book".

I am not at all alone in seeing Sarah as a noteworthy but unsung champion. From Counter Culture coffee, Jesse Kahn had this to add: "What has always amazed me about Sarah is her tireless dedication to learning. It is truly her quest for knowledge that inspires all those around her and creates an incredible culture of openness and accessibility. I have worked with Sarah in vendor relationships, training relationships, and no matter what her 'official' role at any given time, she is the same person – seeking common ground and understanding and

Laila Ghambari, currently at Stumptown and former US Barista Champion, shared, "Sarah has been a champion of the barista in every facet whether it has been supporting through the barista guild, on an individual level of mentorship, hosting throwdowns, or coaching barista competitors. In every role she has held, through my years of knowing her, it has always had some sort of connection to the barista community as she values a barista's role in the greater coffee community. Even after all her years of growing her career, I think

Sarah will always be a barista at heart. Seattle is a stronger coffee community because of Sarah and her investment in building relationships and raising the tides for all. I have personally benefited from her support, and I know many others who would say the same." Hundreds of others from Sarah's past will see this and think of their Sarah moments. All four of us know the industry's future depends on the thousands of others who, in their way, are celebrating the potential of the unique community of which we are all part. Not necessarily the champions or the CEOs but the Baristas, Roasters, Store Managers, supply chain workers, growers, mill owners, and beyond who are selflessly giving of themselves to ensure a sustained future for coffee and each other.

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LEADERS & LUMINARIES | 2021

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One to Watch

CÉSAR VEGA { Café Integral }

JAKE LEONTI | COFFEETALK

{

T

he coffee industry has always been a motley crew of misfits from a variety of backgrounds that somehow lead them to one part of this business or another. When I tell you one of the future leaders of the coffee industry will be someone that studied mechanical engineering and photography while spending free time as a competitive cyclist, you may not even be surprised. This is exactly the case with César Vega, the founder of Café Integral, based in New York City. Mr. Vega was born in Nicaragua and then left when he was very young due to complications from the aftermath of the Contra War. From there, César grew up in Miami, FL. When he turned eight years old, he would go back and spend his summers in Nicaragua with his extended family. It was this time spent in Nicaragua that provided a deeper connection to coffee. It was part of the culture, and he learned about coffee from home, family stories, and lore that surrounded them. Mr. Vega would eventually move to New York to attend NYU to study and begin his introduction to New York coffee with a local classic, the ‘coffee regular’ which was his order. The coffee regular consisted of coffee, cream, and sugar in a cup with a lid and a stack of napkins on top wrapped in a brown paper bag. The amount of cream and sugar was up to the discretion of your local bodega. César remembers, “I started to understand how good I had it growing up. It made me take stock.

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2021 | LEADERS & LUMINARIES

I remember moving (to New York), and the coffee had no real care put into it, and I always ended up over-caffeinated and upset.” After César graduated, he went to work managing a photography studio that focused on food photos. All the while, César was moonlighting in the coffee world. “I had never had a barista job until I started the business years later,” Vega recalls. “I was doing green importing on the side. I would go back to Nicaragua. I brought in 12 bags of coffee to test the water. I was able to sell about half of it. I would roast samples at night and drop them off in the morning on my way into work.” Eventually, this moonlighting would turn into daylighting, and César would start his own cafe in a clothing store in Manhattan. This was just the encouragement he needed to lean into it completely and commit to being in the coffee business. Today Café Integral has a roasting operation, cold brewery, office,

and training lab in Brooklyn, along with a cafe on Elizabeth Street in Manhattan. Even amidst all the noise of the pandemic, Café Integral is opening two locations back in Managua, Nicaragua, where the journey began. They are roasting locally in Managua on a 12 kilo Probat. I had to ask César, did you have any mentors that helped you along the way? “Unfortunately, I haven’t really. I taught myself how to roast on a used 15kilo Ambex and taught myself espresso on a home espresso machine. All the people that helped along the way were already in it. Everyone in Nicaragua that trusted me early. The few families that took me seriously and gave me the benefit of the doubt, I learned a lot from them. They are still points of reference for me today.” What advice do you wish someone told you when you first got into this business that you had to learn the hard way? “The hardest part for me has been taking criticism. I’m pretty thickskinned and stubborn; however it can be really tough to hear negative feedback and constant feedback. Everyone likes their coffee their way. That has been the most jarring thing is the grind of keeping up.”

COFFEETALK MAGAZINE



ANNOUNCEMENTS

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2021 | LEADERS & LUMINARIES

COFFEETALK MAGAZINE


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LEADERS & LUMINARIES | 2021

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