Summer / NAMA ONE 2021 Issue by CoffeeTalk Magazine

THIS ISSUE: ROASTING & NAMA ONE

SUMMER 2021 | Vol. XXXIV No.5

Keepers of the

Flame

CONTENTS

SUMMER / NAMA ONE ISSUE 2021

CREATING A PROCESS TO CREATE Roasting New Blends JAKE LEONTI

10 11 THE VIEW

The Power of Community and Connection KERRI GOODMAN & JAKE LEONTI

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SUSTAINABLE SERVE Finding a Single Solution JAKE LEONTI

DUST EXPLOSIONS

Selecting a Conveyor to Minimize Risk KARL SEIDEL

ROASTERS ROCK

Your New Flavor Partner – The Processing Specialist

ROCKY RHODES

COFFEETALK MAGAZINE

Advertisers { INDEX } Add A Scoop / Juice Bar Solutions Inc

(415) 382-6535 | ADDASCOOP.COM 13

AeroPress Inc.

(650) 493-3050 | AEROPRESS.COM 13

Cablevey Conveyors

(641) 673-8451 | CABLEVEY.COM 3

Costellini's

(877) 889-1866 | COSTELLINIS.COM

7, 13

Dancing Moon Coffee Company SEE WEB

PUBLISHER

KERRI GOODMAN kerri@coffeetalk.com { 206.686.7378 x1 }

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ART DIRECTOR

JAKE LEONTI jake@coffeetalk.com { x2 }

JUSTIN GOODMAN justin@coffeetalk.com { x3 }

ADMINISTRATION

PRINT DESIGNER

MEAGAN GOODMAN meagan@coffeetalk.com { x4 }

MARCUS FELLBAUM fellbaum@mac.com

| DANCINGMOONCOFFEE.COM 13

Don Pablo Coffee Roasting Company

(305) 249-5628 | DONPABLOCOFFEE.COM 13

Fres-co System USA Inc.

(215) 721-4600 | FRESCO.COM 9

Grounds for Health

(802) 876-7835 | GROUNDSFORHEALTH.ORG 15

Java Jacket

(800) 208-4128 | JAVAJACKET.COM 2

Primera Technology Inc.

(800) 797-2772 | PRIMERALABEL.COM

Texpak Inc | Scolari Engineering

(856) 988-5533 | SCOLARIENG.NET 16 (713) 780-7050 | WALKERCOFFEE.COM 9

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CoffeeTalk Magazine

THE VIEW

{ The Power of Community and Connection } KERRI GOODMAN & JAKE LEONTI

elcome to CoffeeTalk’s Summer 2021 Issue. It’s hard to believe we’ve been publishing for almost three decades now and I am continually touched by readers who reach out to let us know they appreciate the ongoing coffee community support we provide through sharing information and connections. I am forever grateful to our readers, advertisers, and writers for continuing the coffee journey of knowledge and keeping our connections strong. I am particularly grateful for the ability to use CoffeeTalk to make a difference to those in need. Change starts with awareness and the ability to share information. In this case, awareness of the plight of women in coffee growing

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countries. I’m not sure how many of you know that Cervical Cancer is the number one cancer killer of women at origin. Or that one woman dies every two minutes from this 100% preventable and, if caught early, curable disease. Or that women of color have a hugely higher mortality rate. Grounds for Health has been addressing this for 25 years now. To celebrate this milestone, The “Women Choosing Women” campaign has begun. It is for those of us in the industry that want to protect the women at origin and make sure GfH continues this work. Though the campaign has just begun with a simple word-of-mouth sharing, already 20 industry leaders have stepped up to support this work.

THANK YOU!

I hope many more of you will join this effort! groundsforhealth.org/wcw

s we prepare another issue under the cloak of the pandemic, we are reminded of the importance of what we do. Coffee continues to be a unifying beverage that bonds people across cultures and provides a much-needed comfort in a time when so many other comforts have been removed.

face many challenges. Of course, we always want to provide the best products to customers and ensure consistency; however, this has become an incredible challenge. One coffee company I work with in London had to scramble to rebuild its supply chain as their green importer went bankrupt over the last year.

Between civil unrest in Colombia earlier this year and the frost in Brazil, prices have shot up, and access reduced. As roasters, we

As we wade through these waters of uncertainty, we can hold fast to the idea that roasters are the keeper of the flame. With this light, roasters

2021 | SUMMER / NAMA ONE ISSUE

CoffeTal k Magazine

can continue to bring comfort to people worldwide by doing what they do best; providing excellent coffee and a story to share. In the coming months, there are several shows to attend in person for the first time in a while. These shows will provide a craved reconnection and return to familiar habits. It is another step in rebuilding the bridges that were retracted in 2020, adding another breath of fresh air to a flame that refused to go out. COFFEETALK MAGAZINE

WWW.COFFEETALK.COM

SUMMER / NAMA ONE | 2021

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CREATING A PROCESS TO CREATE { Roasting New Blends }

JAKE LEONTI | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, COFFEETALK / CEO F+B THERAPY

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ery often, I read articles on roasting, and they are all very practical and scientific. There are lengthy dives into thermal dynamics, airflow, and chemical stages of development taking place inside the coffee bean. These are all valuable things to know; however, they do not help you understand how to create. The technical aspects of roasting play a role, and it is crucial to understand the factors that can influence flavor in the drum; however, it is more important to perceive those influences in the final product. It is also more important to have a process to create. If you don't have a target in mind, how can you focus your aim? For the past ten years, heading F+B Therapy, a coffee consulting company, I am in the unique position of having roasted on a wide variety of roasters. I've roasted on almost every type and scale of a roaster, including Brambati, Scolari, Probat, Diedrich, Loring, Ambex, US Roasting Corp. Ikawa, Vittoria (vintage), and a couple at origin didn't have brands on them. I create unique blends and roast profiles for clients without the comfort of always using the same roaster. As a result, I have been forced to find alternate paths to my influence and develop methods that are far less driven by the simple mechanics of the machine and much more based on the result in the end cup.

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My process typically begins with a flavor target in mind. Let's say, for brevities sake; I am looking to create a filter coffee that is balanced and approachable for novice drinkers yet sophisticated and quality enough for more experienced and discerning enthusiasts. For this, we want to hit all the notes from a pleasant yet not overwhelming amount of acidity to a full body and sweet finish. I start to remember and catalog all my favorite coffees I've ever had that fit this description and then try to dissect what about them I loved. Some of this is from memory; however, I also keep coffee journals with flavor parameters, spider graphs, and descriptors for this purpose. This process helps me imagine what I want to accomplish and consider what the key ingredients will be. Of course, the next consideration is the price point, volume and consistency required. If I need this tasty, balanced coffee to be a high volume and lower cost coffee, this will automatically exclude certain ingredients that may inflate my costs. Also, if the volume is very high, then I may want to have a wider spread of ingredients. For example, instead of a three-bean blend, I may opt for five beans, so I have more options to rotate seasonal ingredients. Now that I've answered these practical questions, my next course is to pull samples, roast, cup, and bring the band

together. When you are making music, you select specific notes that work well together to form a song. You blend your high and low notes, your sharps and flats, and wrap it up in a tidy rhythm. This is the same as blending coffee. First, I survey each ingredient on its own merit, knowing what elements I need from each player in the group. Once I've heard what each player brings to the table, I can imagine and extrapolate the percentages I need of each element to play the song. Finally, we are ready to profile roast. I try three different blends at three different profiles. I cup them all and then brew them as they are meant to be brewed as a final product. If I'm making a filter coffee, I will brew it on a machine and a pour-over. Testing the product this way will give a clearer picture of how your end-user will experience the final product. Cupping is excellent for green evaluation, but brewing with the final intention is always best for roast decisions. Of these nine roasts, you should end up pretty close to where you want to be. After that, you refine and refine. It's great to understand that while you're roasting, the beans have chlorogenic and lactic acid inside that is transforming through the heat you apply; however, it is not necessary. The scientific method of trial and error combined with imagination and a well-developed pallet may be all you really need when roasting.

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SUMMER / NAMA ONE | 2021

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SUSTAINABLE SERVE { Finding a Single Solution }

JAKE LEONTI | EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, COFFEETALK / CEO F+B THERAPY

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hen it comes to sustainability, the single-serve game is the largest contributor to waste. Whether it’s the single-use paper cup and lid, the single-serve PET plastic cold brew bottle, or the disposable K-cup, we have a singular problem, the packaging. The deeper you dive into the issue, the more complex it becomes and the harder the right decisions get. Cold-brew iced coffee, for instance, is in a tight spot. If you’re creating a purist product, then you likely don’t want to apply heat in the pasteurization process (to avoid affecting the flavor of the end-product). The only way to avoid heat is to use HPP (high-pressure pasteurization), which can only be done on plastic bottles. You are left with a tough choice: compromising flavor or compromising the environment. Keurig and Nespresso have amassed a fortune by creating brewing systems with single-serve cups or pods that operate in a closed system. They have been the easiest to use, as well as the most prevalent on grocery store shelves and hotel rooms. “Coffee pods are one of the best examples of unnecessary single-use plastics that are polluting our planet,” says John Hocevar, the campaign director of Greenpeace USA. Hocevar continued, “Within ten years, enough K-Cups were sold that if placed end-to-end, they would circle the globe ten times.” In the meantime, we see innovative solutions arising like the single-serve “tea bag” solution first introduced by Folgers but truly perfected recently by Steeped Coffee, led by Josh Wilbur. Josh introduced a series of solutions that contributed to a greener product and a fresher coffee. Some of these details include ultrasonically welding all seams to avoid toxic glues and allow

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for fewer seams that create better brewing saturation. Their full-emersion filters are unique and allow for water to enter the coffee for brewing and allow dissolved solids to exit. “We worked with Q graders and barista champions to work on every individual component and detail to make the difference,” adds Josh. NuZee is another player in this space, founded by Masa Higashida, a native of Japan. Mr. Higashida was also driven by this idea that brewing more coffee than you needed was wasteful, and he wanted to introduce a better way of brewing while reducing waste. NuZee started with their fold open pour-over and then later added a “teabag” packaging option as well. Both Steeped and Nuzee’s bags are 100% commercially compostable. After talking with these two sustainably focused companies, it was a bit surprising when I saw Planetary Design introduce the new Trestle adaptor, which was created to allow AeroPress users to brew a k-cup by hand. To me, creating a plastic adaptor to a brewer that previously produced little waste seems both counter-productive and late in the game. I posed this thought to Jess Nepstad of Planetary Design, and he responded, “If you are headed to the mountains on a short two- or three-day trip, having 4 or 5 refillable K-Cups that you can easily make coffee with your AeroPress is much easier.” The compostable teabag solution has the greatest potential for sustainability, as it requires no equipment and no additional measurement or skill. All you need is water. This seems like a much better way to brew coffee in the mountains and a better way to support an idea of a smaller footprint without compromising quality.

COFFEETALK MAGAZINE

DUST EXPLOSIONS { Selecting a Conveyor to Minimize Risk }

KARL SEIDEL | MARKETING DIRECTOR, CABLEVEY CONVEYERS

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or the coffee roasters and processing companies using conveyor systems, some ground and powdered materials are ignition sensitive in specific concentrations, particularly when exposed to static electricity discharge. A key concern is conveyor system connection points such as inlets, outlets, and storage bins. Here, the dust concentration can become sufficiently high for a deflagration to occur with accidental exposure to an ignition source, such as static electricity, a spark, flame, or even high heat or friction. One solution for coffee roasters is selecting a conveyor, such as a tubular drag conveyor, that conveys powdered material more slowly and gently. Tubular drag conveyors are enclosed systems that utilize a coated, flexible stainless-steel drag cable pulled through on a loop. Because tubular cable conveyors do not suspend transported powders within high-velocity airstreams like pneumatic conveyors, this imparts “less energy” into the conveyance, which reduces dust explosion risk. Unlike other conveyor systems, tubular cable conveyors operate on low horsepower with less heat and friction. With tubular cable conveyors, solid circular discs (flights) are attached to a cable, which pushes the product at low speed through the tube without the use of air, reducing the potential for dust cloud formation and preserving product integrity. The systems can convey up to 2000 cubic feet per hour (56m3/hr.) of powders, granules, etc., with numerous layouts using multiple inlets and outlets.

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MINIMIZING DUST ACCUMULATION

When it comes to minimizing the risk of dust explosions in coffee roasting and processing, even gentler enclosed tubular conveyor systems are not all the same given the two options: chain or cable. For example, with tubular drag chain conveyors, the entire chain is directly immersed within the powders conveyed so coffee dust and particles can remain trapped after cleaning. With tubular cable conveyors, the cable has about 80% less area exposed than the surface area of the chain. Further, the cable is nylon sealed, preventing debris and dust accumulation within the cable strands. Another way to mitigate coffee dust accumulation is through sufficient cleaning to remove any potential powdered debris between batches. For this, tubular cable conveyor systems typically offer more options for dry and wet tube cleaning to remove accumulations of dust and residue. To minimize dust explosion risk with coffee roasting and processing, tubular cable conveyors should be engineered in conformance with EHEDG (European Hygienic Engineering and Design Group) hygienic standards so that they’re entirely free of crevices, ledges, and dead spots where coffee dust and particles can reside. Surfaces should be designed to be convex, rounded, or inclined to 45 degrees to prevent powder and dust residue. Given the variety of conveyor choices and powdered ingredients that must be conveyed during coffee processing, the potential risks warrant a careful examination of the available equipment options and system design in consultation with experts. Systems that eliminate potential ignition sources, convey material with less force, and otherwise reduce the risk of dust explosion can help coffee roasters and processors protect their employees, production, and brand. SUMMER / NAMA ONE | 2021

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Roasters Rock

YOUR NEW FLAVOR PARTNER – THE PROCESSING SPECIALIST ROCKY RHODES | CEO, INTERNATIONAL COFFEE CONSULTING

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here was a time when the only perceivable person making the coffee ‘Special’ was an Italian barista. Then came a time when the person having the most significant transformative action on the coffee to develop flavor was the roaster. As their skill improved, so did the mastery of many baristas around the world. Now there is a new partner in flavor development; The Processing Professional. Since 1774, coffee sellers have promoted selling Natural coffee. The Quality then was of questionable nature! It was the only process they had, and there was likely minimal sorting of ripes, un-ripes, and over-ripes. Fast forward 100 years, and we are introduced to a process that made drying way faster, and productivity goes through the roof. Then, it was the

Classification System

Washed process. Coffee as a beverage was exploding around the globe. Then 150 years later, the specialty roasters and expert baristas of the world introduced coffee with FLAVOR. When care was taken with roasting and drink preparation, great results came about. This was when the focus started turning to the origin countries and focusing on control points that could increase or decrease the interesting flavors of coffee. The following chart from Coffee Quality Institute depicts the different ways to process coffee as seen from a high level. It focuses on two factors – Anatomy of the Fruit and Drying Method. As you can see in the chart below, the NATURAL coffee we discussed initially, the anatomy is left entirely intact and dried whole. This drying would then be ‘Fruit Dried.’

Taking the skin off and leaving various amounts of mucilage on the coffee is some version of Pulped Coffee. It would dry as either ‘Mucilage Dried’ or ‘Parchment Dried’ coffee. If you pre-dry the pulped coffee a bit but then ‘Wet Hull’ the coffee while still high in moisture, you are left with just the seed, and the drying would be ‘Seed Dried.’ Within this framework, the folks in charge of processing are experimenting and pushing the envelope on processing. They are using aerobic and anaerobic methods. They inoculate with different yeast to get different microbial reactions. They play with variables of time and heat to change the progression of varying aromatic/flavor groups. You, as a roaster, can capitalize on this, but you will need to speak the language. The Coffee Quality Institute has launched classes and courses (certificated) that are open to roasters. A one-day class called Intro to Post Harvest Processing is a good intro and one your customers might also enjoy. The next three are designed for coffee professionals. Flavors are developed throughout the supply chain. Knowing how to unlock them makes you an expert at your job: Barista, Roaster, and now Processor. Who knows; maybe in a few years, we will be certifying farmers for organizing the growing conditions, inputs, varietals, pruning, and farm maintenance that create unique flavors to the farm.

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COFFEETALK MAGAZINE

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SUMMER / NAMA ONE | 2021

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ANNOUNCEMENTS

W.A.C. IS BACK IN 2021 Ae rop re s In c .

37.4443293,-122.1598465

The World AeroPress Championship team is thrilled to be bringing back this beloved event for 2021! To make sure no one misses out due to local safety restrictions, they've launched an online format that allows participants to compete from home. National championships are running May-September and the season will culminate in the world final event – competed online and judged in Melbourne, Australia – at the end of the year. National champions will work with a surrogate barista who’ll brew their recipe for a local judging panel, and the crowning of the 2021 champion will be livestreamed around the world. { aeropress.com }

Costel linsi'

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CASH IN ON VANILLA TRENDS

Show your customers you care! As consumers locked down, they turned to familiar dishes and flavors to help them cope with the stress. Comfort, Indulgence, and Sweet. Our desire for soothing flavors, especially sweet ones, was heightened by the pandemic. With the current social and political environment, the need for warmth has taken on a whole new sense, but flavors continue to provide a calming constant. Costillini's Vanilla Powder can help you crate that comfort for your customers and help you cash in on the Vanilla Rage. PRINTER WITH “BIG INK™” IS ANNOUNCED

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LX3000 uses the same platform as Primera’s popular LX910 Color Label Printer, but with the addition of large, individual ink tanks and a reusable thermal inkjet print head. The ink system is being called “Big Ink” to differentiate it from other Primera models. Print quality is 1200 dpi resolution with a maximum print resolution of 1200 dpi x 4800 dpi. Labels up to 8” wide x 24” long can be printed. Print speed is up to 4.5” (114mm) per second.

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COFFEETALK MAGAZINE

Women Choosing Women 25 Years - 25 Women in Coffee - $25,000

Cate Batson Baril, Global Organics, Ltd. Lisa Colon, Intercontinental Coffee Trading Gina Costellini, Costellini's Shayna Ferullo, Snowy Owl Coffee Roasters Elizabeth Goldblatt & Amy Louis, Six Degrees Coffee Kerri Goodman, CoffeeTalk Jennifer Gurley, Rockingham Roasters Mireya Jones, Jones Coffee Roasters Kyra Kennedy, Baratza Joyce Klassen, Baratza Meg Le Vu, BlkCity Coffee Mary Allen Lindemann, Coffee by Design Alicia Love, Coffee Labs Roasters Shirin Moayyad, Sweet Bean Coffee Samantha Keane Morgan, Balzac Bros. Jenni Morse, Simpli Press Coffee Helen Nicholas, Royal Coffee, Inc. (retired) Linda Smithers, Daterra Coffee (retired) Maritza Taylor, PT's Coffee Roasting Co. & Bird Rock Coffee Roasters Monica Walker, Walker Coffee Trading Kim Walton, Flag & Wire Coffee Women @ Club Coffee Sara Yirga, YA Coffee ... and more to come!

Donate now to join these inspiring women and support women's health at origin