IMMERSE by Kerry Gissing

IMMERSE FREE // MONTHLY // VOLUME 01 // ISSUE 01 ‘Karl Lagerfeld’s Spring/Summer 2010 show for Chanel … a deliciously cheeky romp round the farmyard’ Brighton Rocks Back To Basics A Very British Affair Daddy I Want A Pony - Fierce Females I’ve Got No Strings Designer Profile: Fran Marchesi The British Film Industry Fair-Ground Florals

Cover image: Models: Daniel Fricker

Lauren Moore

Daniel wears: tee: Topshop // shirt: Topshop // hoodie: American Eagle // jeans: Yak // shoes: Converse Lauren wears: tee: Primark // shorts: River Island // belt: River Island // socks: Primark // boots: River Island // sunglasses: Primark

IMMERSE FREE // MONTHLY // VOLUME 01 // ISSUE 01

‘Karl Lagerfeld’s Spring/Summer 2010 show for Chanel … a deliciously cheeky romp round the farmyard’ Brighton Rocks Back To Basics A Very British Affair Daddy I Want A Pony - Fierce Females I’ve Got No Strings Designer Profile: Fran Marchesi The British Film Industry Fair-Ground Florals

Cover image: Model: Leanne Gissing Leanne wears: top: River Island

skirt: Topshop

CONTRIBUTORS

Kerry Gissing // Susan Cobbold // Claire Culley John Clement-Smith // Daniel Fricker

MODELS Leanne Gissing // Susan Cobbold // Daniel Fricker Lauren Moore // Matt Willerton // Fran Mawson // Kelly Hillier // Laurel Howells // Hayley Moore // Jo Teanby

IMMERSE yourself in // fashion IMMERSE yourself in // design IMMERSE yourself in // culture IMMERSE yourself in // film, music IMMERSE brings you fashion, design, culture, music, film and more. We believe in the creative expressions of our contemporaries, providing a spotlight for new and immerging talent. Grabbing at trends, inviting influence and creating enjoyment from the little things. All the contributors, from the writers to the models are aspiring artists in some form or another.

enjoyâ&#x20AC;Ś

CONTENTS Brighton Rocks 1 Back to Basics 7 Sugar, Spice and all Things

Nice 23

A Very British Affair 25 Daddy I want a pony - Fierce Females 29 Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve Got No Strings 31 Designer Profile: Fran Marchesi 41 The British Film Industry 47 Fair-Ground Florals 49

Brighton Rocks Brighton when the sun is shining is quite literally the most perfect place on earth. Now this might seem like a massive sweeping statement but I defy anyone not to come to Brighton on a wonderfully sunny day and not leave with a big smile on your face and a warm feeling in your belly… I have lived in Brighton for three years now and I have to admit, I am a little bit in love with it. Even when its raining or I’m feeling a little bit blue, there is always somewhere I can go and lose myself for a couple of hours. As such with all cities, it can be somewhat daunting if you don’t know where to go or what to do. SO, I am going to give you a little insight into my favourite Brighton haunts. Sit back, make yourself a cuppa and read through (as Julie Andrews would say..) my favourite things.

THE MOCK TURTLE TEAROOM This Tearoom, situated a stones throw from the beach on Pool Valley is the most darling tearoom in Brighton. With an interior resembling your Granny’s living room, cakes that are actually the size of your head (I’m not kidding – their homemade doughnuts are MASSIVE), mismatched china and every kind of tea under the sun. This place really is quite marvellous. The staff are lovely and friendly and it has a really relaxed atmosphere, perfect to relax your weary feet after a days shopping. I would definitely recommend their cream tea. As cream teas go, I do believe this is one of the best I have ever had..and believe me I have done the leg work on this one.

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The Laines really are my favourite place in Brighton. The whole area is filled with beautiful shops, beautiful restaurants and more noticeably beautiful people.You can’t walk for about two minutes without seeing a girl (or guy) that looks ridiculously cool or effortlessly chic and that you are immediately envious of. There are loads of lovely vintage shops, including the famous Snoopers Paradise - A haven of trinkets, old records, retro furniture, vintage clothes and my personal favourite, collections of old cameras. With other vintage clothes shops such as To Be Worn Again, Dirty Harry, Hope & Harlequin and Beyond Retro dotted around you really can wile away the hours just by rummaging through rail after rail of these sweet threads. A tip from me to you would be a quick trip to the sweet shop just opposite Snoopers – bag yourself as much pic ‘n’ mix that is humanly possible (for quite cheap as well I might add) and wander round all these shops whilst munching through the sugary goodness. It really is perfection. There is a real bohemian vibe here with lots of wall art and there is often buskers or performers dotted around which you will inevitably have to try and stop yourself from shimmying to in the middle of the street. (A feat I struggle with on a daily basis if I’m honest –I don’t think the world is quite ready for my moves yet – well not in the streets anyway).

Speaking of dancing leads me onto my favourite night out in Brighton. Popkraft is the kind of night that someone like me can only dream of, so when I discovered it, it really was a dream come true. The monthly night is held in the Hanbury Club, a small ballroom-esque boutique club in Kemptown and is hosted by the wonder that is Boogaloo Stu and his fabulous sidekick Dolly Rocket. The night is basically a fun filled fest of puppet-making-cakedecorating-badge-wearing-gaga-dancing. Now, I know what you’re all thinking… THIS IS THE BEST THING EVER. Although I am by no means done. As well as all these shenanigans you can watch (and sometimes join in with) the amazing cabaret performed by Boogaloo Stu himself along with weekly guests, dance the night away to eighties classics and chart topping hits or you can treat yourself to a (free) fabulous up-do in their hair-hopper salon. That’s right, it’s beehives and fifties quiffs a-go-go.

THE LAINES

POPKRAFT

BRIGHTON PIER AND BEACH

Now, it would be pretty much illegal to come to the seaside and not spend a substantial amount of time on the pier or on the beach. The pier really is like a step back in time. With carousels and pretty lights and jazz tunes crooning out over the sound system, it really is like being in a forties film. That is until you reach the end and have to struggle with the crowds of tourists of course, but that goes without saying. If you have time I would suggest taking a walk from the Palace Pier down to the West Pier (which famously burned down many years ago but the remains still stand and represent some amazing architecture). On this little amble you will discover cute little art galleries, bands playing live music, delicious ice creams, loads of kids doing tricks on their bmx’s and skateboards, people that are far too fit for their own good playing beach volleyball and even bars that resemble pirate ships. Yes. That’s right. The Fortune of War is a beachfront bar that is a pirate ship inside and is actually amazing.

THE ROYAL PAVILION

If you fancy a bit of culture, then the Royal Pavillion is your port of call. It’s regency style is just breathtaking and you can really lose yourself in the ornate-ness of it all. It was built for George, Prince Regent in the 19th Century due to his love of India and the Taj Majal and this influence really screams through both inside and out. There are also some lovely gardens surrounding the Pavilion that are perfect for a picnic on a summers day or even just for the perfect place to grab a Starbucks and flick through today’s paper.

MUSIC MAKES ME LOSE CONTROL

There are so so many great music venues in Brighton, that literally cover everyone’s tastes.You’ll find it very difficult to walk into a pub any night of the week and find that there isn’t a live band on and I would literally be here all day if I was to list all of my favourite venues to you. However a couple I will mention are Audio, which just this month have hosted Mumford & Sons, The Pipettes and Fanfarlo to mention a few. Also, be sure to hit the Engine Rooms if you want to listen to amazingly loud music in a dark somewhat sweaty club. A guilty pleasure of mine I have to admit. There is also the Freebutt, which is your one stop shop for all upcoming bands. Another point I might mention is that the Freebutt is a frequent haunt for all guitar playing, messy haired skinny jean wearing, music buff type hotties. Shallow you might think, but least if the band is pretty poor then you have something else to swoon over whilst you drink your pint.

THE ROAST

Now as we all know there really is nothing better on a Sunday lunchtime then wandering/crawling into town to stuff yourself silly with roasty goodness to fuel your hangover from the night before. My favourite roast in town has to be in a pub called the Hop Poles. Found on Middle Street, it hosts amazing food, a great interior and even has a cute little beer garden out the back. Now what is so great about this pub compared to the many other pubs in Brighton I hear you ask? WELL. My answer to that is pure and simply, Pork Tower.Yes, that’s right, their pork is literally like a tower of yum. The plate is jampacked with fresh vegetables, crisp roast potatos, juicy pork and a big slab of cracking – all piled up together to make the mouth-watering pork tower. (I should probably mention that this is my made up name for their roast. I wouldn’t advise rocking up to the bar and asking for a pork tower.You might get some strange looks from the barman).

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‘ With an interior resembling your Granny’s living room, cakes that are actually the size of your head.’

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‘ That’s right, it’s beehives and fifties quiffs a-go-go’

‘stuff yourself silly with roasty goodness to fuel your hangover from the night before…’

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Brighton Rocks So from one vintage wearing, music loving, hot boy swooning, roast eating tea drinker to another (I know youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all out there), I hope if you do venture down Brighton way then you do at least one of the above things. I guarantee you will have a perfect perfect day. CLAIRE CULLEY

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; the Freebutt is a frequent haunt for all guitar playing, messy haired, skinny jean wearing, music buff type hotties. Shallow you might think, but least if the band is pretty poor then you have something else to swoon over whilst you drink your pint.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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BACK TO BASICS After spending the winter slathering on foundation to hide wind-battered cheeks; defining eyes in smoky shadows and painting lips a juicy but oh so devilish plum; summer wants us to lighten up and get back to basics. Susan Cobbold investigates.

There is (as there is every season) a nude alternative to winter’s heavy make-up; champagne and oyster shades brightened eyes and golden hues sculpted faces. The trend had been brewing for a while, but last season established as a major fashion. But, teamed romantically tousled hair and tumbling cascades of ruffled garments; nude has taken on a new connotation for spring 2010: health, purity and innocence. Skin, lips and eyes are all as bare as bare can be, but for a flawless sheen. If this sounds horrific, fear not, there are several flattering variations on this look.

‘ skin, lips and eyes are all bare as bare can be’ Christopher Kane took the look most literally, sending his models down the catwalk with bare, but incredibly flawless skin. A healthy gloss was given to skin, achieved with summer’s beauty staple; MAC Strobe Cream (£20.50, MAC). Alexander Wang, Chloe, Vera Wang and Givenchy all opted for the minimalist look, but made a feature of the models’ eyebrows. Whereas winter 09’s brows were strong, painted on lines; summer is about keeping brows full and natural. Be sure to keep them tidy though, this more Audrey Hepburn than Frida Kahlo’s monobrow. Contrastingly, make up artist Aaron De Mey bleached out brows at Givenchy, following on from

Lara Stone’s noughties example and Pat McGrath’s no-brow look last season. “Riccardo Tisci wanted something neutral yet tough and strong-looking, and bleached brows were the smartest way to achieve that”, Mey explained.

certain to bring the natural world into your home. Put on the lilting sounds of The English Country Garden (£12.99, www.feelkarma.com) and you’ll be mentally and physically prepared to reveal all this summer.

Burberry, Chanel and Balmain made nude more wearable with shimmering bronze shadow that made blue eyes pop. “We’re trying to incorporate all the colours of the trench coat – toffees and butterscotches. The idea is to make it look like there is no makeup,” said Wendy Rowe, who led the make-up team at Burberry. Zac Posen and Donna Karan took the look a step further with iridescent white eyeshadow, a fantastic way to make eyes sparkle. Try Givenchy Shadow Show in 02, £16.50.

Nude make up for summer is a given, but this time it’s that bit more exposing, more stark. Why the change? Firstly, technology has allowed it. Mineral make-up is now widely available in various forms, encouraging us to keep skin chemical-free and let it breathe. Also, there has been a huge surge in organic products over the last few years and articles telling us to avoid chemicals and go for skincare containing only the purest natural ingredients.

Lips tended to be pale and glossy, seen at Jil Sander and Betty Jackson or clean and ‘just-bitten’ (think Calvin Klein). Cheeks had a healthy bronze glow (Lancôme’s Star Bronzer Poudre Compacte Bronzante, £30.00 is excellent) or a natural rosy tint, achieved with MAC Pro Cream Colour Blush in Velvet Rose, £16.00 (the shade used at Chloe). Not only is it opportune to give your skin a break; soothe your senses with these gems. Frederic Malle’s Fleurs Mecanique - a glossy box that synthesises real flowers -works with cold-air diffusion to infuse the home with exquisite floral scents (£230, Liberty). Be sure to check out Pantone’s 2010 colours which include raw shades of eucalyptus and dried herb,

Our world is hyper-real. Air-brushed, impossibly perfect images make a mockery of what is ‘normal’, but we’re fighting back. Ralph Lauren received huge criticism for airbrushing models into nonexistence and designers like Mark Fast are parading plus size models down their catwalks. Not to mention the curvaceous Lara Stone becoming a certified icon. Armed with a sun-kissed glow, summer’s the perfect time to flaunt who we are and what we really look like, we just had to find the appropriate time and climate. The good news is, that time has arrived. We just have to be brave enough to take advantage of it. Susan Cobbold fashion // 8

Hayley wears: Dress: Topshop // Shoes: George at Asda // Headband: Topshop

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Kelly wears: Playsuit: Miss Selfridge // Shoes: Faith // Headband: Primark

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Kelly wears: Playsuit: Miss Selfridge // Shoes: Faith // Headband: Primark fashion // 14

Hayley wears: Dress: Topshop // Shoes: Dorothy Perkins // Headband: Topshop // Bag: Miss Selfridge

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Kelly wears: Dress: Miss Selfridge // Shoes: Faith // Headband: Primark

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Fran wears: Dress [worn as top]: Miss Selfridge // Skirt: Primark // Headband: Topshop // Hairpins: Boots // Belt: Primark // Shoes: Red Herring at Debenhams Kelly wears: Playsuit: Miss Selfridge // Shoes: Faith // Headband: Primark // Sunglasses: Primark

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Hayley wears: Dress: Primark // Top: Topshop // Sunglasses: Primark // Socks: Primark // Shoes: Dorothy Perkins Kelly wears: Top: Primark // Skirt: Primark // Bra: Marks and Spencer // Belt: Primark // Shoes: Faith // Headband: Primark

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Hayley wears: Dress: Primark // Top: Topshop // Sunglasses: Primark // Socks: Primark // Shoes: Dorothy Perkins

[Opposite] Kelly wears: Dress: Miss Selfridge // Shoes: Faith // Headband: Primark

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Fran wears: Dress: Miss Selfridge // Sunglasses: Primark // Headband: Miss Selfridge Hayley wears: Top: Primark // Sunglasses: Primark

[Opposite] Hayley wears: Dress: Primark // Top: Topshop // Sunglasses: Primark // Socks: Primark // Shoes: Dorothy Perkins

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‘ The collection was a visual treat of cheeky prettiness: yes, there were some things that jarred, but overall it was fun and sexy, not to mention an incredible show.’ Karl Lagerfeld’s Spring/Summer 2010 show for Chanel

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Sugar, Spice & all things Nice Lagerfeld takes farmyard peasantry and gives it a very French make over with oodles of Chanel sophistication Karl Lagerfeld’s Spring/Summer 2010 show for Chanel was a deliciously cheeky romp round the farmyard, harping back to his partly pastoral upbringing in Germany. Models Lara Stone and Freja Beha Erichson seized the opportunity to do some rolling in the hay with Lagerfeld’s man accessory, Baptiste Giabiconi. Meanwhile, the rest of the dolled-up wenches strutted their stuff to Primal Scream’s Get your Rocks Off ’.

‘A deliciously cheeky romp round the farmyard’ A huge barn construction took precedence and (just incase you should forget where you were) bore the iconic Chanel emblem. Prince, Claudia Schiffer and Natalia Vodianova with her gorgeous daughter, Neva commandeered the front row, which was consumed by monochrome outfits and the merest hint of grey and nude. Perhaps they didn’t anticipate the powderypinks, blues and vibrant reds that featured in Lagerfeld’s spectacle. Inspired by a barn that belonged to Marie Antoinette, Lagerfeld graced his followers with a collection that was mouth-wateringly delicious. A particularly lovely example was a thigh-high baby doll covered in a froth of white chiffon punctuated with silver. The shoulders were

modestly covered in another puff of matching chiffon and the skirt had a petticoat layer of dainty sunray pleats. Team that with the platform clogs which dominated the show and you get French fondant fancy meets not-soinnocent milkmaid. Models working sexily dishevelled Brigitte Bardot up-dos strutted their stuff in dirndl skirts and mini-crinis, a nod to the seemingly omnipresent eighties trends. Also keeping in-step with the eighties were fluttery, soft white jackets with wide shoulders. Lace in purest white covered vibrant peach and twists of gold encased a strapless, A-line caramel dress with a roughly cut hemline, as if its wearer had chopped the bottom off herself. A particular triumph was the poppy red and cornflower blue meadow flower prints on chiffon that resembled delicate watercolours. They were also embroidered onto crocheted wool, so finely stitched; they would have looked more at home on couture. The classic Chanel tweeds appeared in French cream, powder blue and soft ecru. However, some were jazzed up with a smear of lipstick red and a sprinkle of glitter.

half dressed, as though she only had one stocking. Ballet ribbon tights were also rather at odds with the rural collection. Guests were also treated to a performance from Lily Allen, dressed in sequins, singing her hit single, ‘Not Fair’ as she made her entrance up through the floor. Perhaps another sign that Lagerfeld wants to open the brand to the 18-24 market, particularly since the release of the ‘Chance’ perfume back in 2004. Lace and chiffon were nicely in keeping with the beautiful Valentino collection shown the same day and a ‘down on the farm’ look was seen two weeks earlier at D&G. Somehow, though, Chanel did it better. The collection was a visual treat of cheeky prettiness: yes, there were some things that jarred, but overall it was fun and sexy, not to mention an incredible show. Better ditch the wellies then, and put on your clogs and party dress for those summer evenings in the country. Susan Cobbold

A sticking point was the Chanel chain tattoos on wrists and thighs. While they were meticulously painted on, they left a usually stunning Lara Stone looking somewhat

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‘DADDY I WANT A PONY’ ‘Daddy I want a pony’ was what I and so many young girls like me, spewed out to their poor fathers time and time again. Yes, it was annoying but nothing on what’s asked for now. Now the little ones want something much more sinister: a boob job, a fake tan, tooth whitening. Very footballer’s wife and Katie Price. Luckily, 2009 saw the rise of a debatably new and certainly more ferocious role model. This lady has style, presence and bags of attitude (the kind that boosts morale, not speaks back to her parents). She’s body confident, showing of her curves, not advocating celery nibbling. And, with the recent release of Beyonce and Lady Gaga’s ‘Video Phone’ single, the fierce female looks set to be body popping and booty shaking their way into 2010. So then, lets wave goodbye to ‘Daddy I want to be orange’ and say hello to ‘Daddy I want a career I’m in charge of ’. This is the era of the fierce female.

‘THIS IS THE ERA OF THE FIERCE FEMALE.’ When you think of ‘fierce’, there are three ladies who immediately spring to mind: Lady Gaga, Beyonce, and Rihanna. In his book, ‘Fierce Style’, Christian Siriano, the Project Runway winner, describes fierce as “feeling fabulous about yourself, being strong, independent and confident in what you do (all the while looking totally ferosh)”. These women are the very definition of that and, let’s face it, who wouldn’t want to be? 2009 has brought the issue of unequal pay for men and women to the fore once again and these independent girls represent to us that it is possible to take huge success in what is commonly and sadly still perceived as a man’s world: ‘I think fierce females are seen to be taking male roles in an overturning of the hierarchy norm. So I guess in that way, we are in awe,’ said Hannah Prentice, student from Leeds. Lady Gaga has stormed the charts, tying with Beyonce for nine awards at 2009’s MTV Music Awards, an achievement indeed. Perhaps most notable is Rihanna’s transformation from girl next door to tough, leather-clad fashion-savvy woman after her then partner, Chris Brown attacked her. Barely legal,

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Rihanna entered the music scene in cropped tops and low slung jeans. She gradually headed in a fiercer direction, cutting her hair to a razor-sharp short style and donning full bondage attire for her 2008 performance in Dublin. After Brown assaulted her in early 2009, Rihanna’s style became much more armoured, more defensive. From Catalan’s spiked rings to wrapping herself in barbed wire for the cover of her latest album, ‘Rated R’, Rihanna put on a ferocious, ‘don’t mess with me’ exterior. People magazine style editor Clarissa Cruz told CNN that Rihanna’s style had become: “very fierce [and] harder-edged. I can’t speak to what she’s feeling personally, but visually she’s communicating the message that she’s a strong woman.” Since her career began with band, Destiny’s Child, Beyonce has been flying the flag for female independence. She’s always confessed to being a good, Christian girl, but her alter ego, Sasha Fierce paints a different picture altogether. She says, “I have someone else that takes over when it’s time for me to work and when I’m on stage, this alter ego that I’ve created that kind of protects me and who I really am”. Sasha is the epitome of what is ‘fierce’; she’ll happily stride out in corsets and thigh high boots, exuding the ‘I don’t care what you think’ mantra. But are these women truly fierce? Beyonce and Rihanna use they’re ferociousness as a shield from harm. And Lady Gaga might have the attitude, but even she has stylist, Nicola Formichetti behind her crazy looks. Psychologist, Anita Abrams disagrees, advocating icons such as Coco Chanel as the original ‘fierce females’: ‘I do not think that the names suggested as role models are in

that [Chanel’s] league. What is their motivation, other than standing out from the crowd of singers, celebrities and icons (for their generation) and making themselves noticeable among similarly motivated narcissists.’ Chanel was the first designer to use jersey fabric in women’s clothing. It had commonly been used for men’s clothing due to its comfort and ease. The fact that it was now available to women was a sign they were rising steadily towards equality and also provided a symbol of freedom as fashion previously dictated women were to wear constricting corsets. Abram’s continues, ‘Look at the history of fashion and you will see that innovators who got rid of the corset and introduced bobbed hair were really fierce, tough and widely influential, who liberated women from the constrictions of fashion and forced their contemporaries to change their view of the potential of women’. Alice Robinson, a budding fashion designer agrees, citing Anna Wintour as fierce icon: ‘She just has the presence and independence that’s needed and that bold ‘bob’ signature haircut that only she could make glamorous the way she does.’ Having said this, ‘fierce’ has taken on its new connotation only recently, because of this, women like Beyonce are what we would refer to as ferocious because, in effect, the word was created because of them and for them. How else can they be defined? (continued)

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‘it is OK for women to be strong and in charge of their own lives’

Of course, a female can’t be fierce without a wardrobe to match. The winter 2009 catwalks have given us ferocious eighties power dressing, aggressive looking studs and oodles of sleek leather; probably why we’ve been taking more notice of the fierce ladies’ style. Spring 2010 has divided itself between outrageous and back-to-basics, pared down. However, the outrageous looks set to offer us some different, but nevertheless powerful looks.

way to get noticed. Lady Gaga particularly is widely recognised because of her outrageous style and not just because of her songs. Rihanna used an image change as a way to move her career forward and to great effect. Beyonce has always been an icon, but it has earnt her huge respect in a genre dominated by tough male figures.

First on the list are the oh-so-impossible to walk in Alexander McQueen ‘armadillo’ shoes as worn by Lady Gaga no less in her video for ‘Bad Romance’. Or how about a Beyonce favourite, Gareth Pugh? His spring collection might have more fluidity than we used to from him, but he matched it with sharp, unrelenting slate greys, sharp shoulders and a wing-like headdress. Unsurprisingly, Rihanna sat in the front row. Even more daring is Prada’s thigh-high, ruched leotard with a plunging neckline. Team with their revealing transparent handbags and the fierce look is yours. Of course, you also have to own it.

Secondly, men have become very accustomed with the idea of a strong female. Lady Gaga might not be their idea of ‘hot’ but they certainly give her the respect she deserves. Thomas Abbott, a student from London finds women intimidating if they’re big in stature but says: ‘I think the attitude is good … it seems to be brave, outgoing and unafraid of criticism/consequences, opposite to a timid housewife stereotype I suppose. I think being fierce is admirable, but not necessarily hot.’ His friend, Marc Hinken disagrees: ‘only male chauvinists would find it intimidating’. Or perhaps they adopt a fierce attitude in order to intimidate men, to show them that they don’t need a man in order to become successful.

Make-up and hair is also set to scream ‘I’ve arrived’. Candy floss hair is huge (literally) on the Catwalks and was seen here. Blocks of bold colour made an appearance also, it dominated lips and eyes, think that Lady Gaga Zen pout. But why is it that now is the time to be fierce? Firstly, it’s a fantastic

Lastly, we have atlast become tired of WAGs and fakeness. Even Cheryl Cole’s dropped her hair extensions, the last remaining tie to her WAG image. All the time, the public are getting wiser to the airbrushing and plastic surgery that creates the image of perfection they feel they must conform to. Gok Wan, Trinny and Susannah and Tyra Banks have all been encouraging us to celebrate natural beauty and it’s finally paying off. Rihanna, Beyonce and Lady Gaga may have fabulous figures, but in no way are they thin or unobtainable and neither do they pretend to be. Beyonce, Rihanna and Lady Gaga may have some falsities and, while they’re not in the same league as those who truly liberated women, they are nonetheless icons who are in a position to spread the word that it is OK for women to be strong and in charge of their own lives as well as being sexy. I think that’s a message we can all take heed of.

Susan Cobbold

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http://www.myspace.com/marcusfoster www.marcus-foster.co.uk

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A MOMENT OF MADNESS Yes we’ve all done it. We have all entered that moment of madness where we think, I’ll venture out into the wide world wearing this and yet no one is there to stop us. We only realise once we look back at dreadful, truth revealing photos, that, oh my god I actually went out like this! So here we are the current moments of madness that many brave people are embarking upon this season, note please look out for and steer clear of:

1. Replica UGG boots, they may look the part and feel the part, but at the end of the day they are not the part. The moment of madness here is when people have lived in their UGG’s for so long they eventually ‘fall off’ them. This term is applied when the sole of the foot no longer meets the sole of the shoe and becomes off-centered forcing the wearer to practically walk along with only the fabric of the shoe between their foot and the ground. This looks terrible and results in a sort of shuffle to their walk accompanied by a sponge like effect soaking up every puddle in sight. Real UGG’s do not do this, however, price can be restricting, so by all means buy cheap, knock off UGG’s but make sure you buy new ones pre-‘fall off.’

2. Our next moment of madness takes its reasoning from the simple fact that it is not acceptable for peek-a-bum. There is no reason to unleash the lower portion of your milk bottle bums on the world, no matter how tanned or toned they may be. Dresses and skirts were made with material for a reason and belts are used to hold clothes in place – not to be worn on their own.

4. Everyone has the right to wear what ever they like, its up to you what you look like, however a size to small can destroy any image anyone was going for. Lets just say muffin tops are not desirable and what can be a lovely fashion statement can look distressingly uncomfortable. It’s such a shame when a curvier figure cuts up their voluptuous shape with a pair of jeans, a size too small or a top that reveals their midriff in all the wrong places. The outfit would look perfectly fine if only it were a size bigger and in a moment of madness the image is lost, your money wasted. Clothes should hug you, not cut you in three like a piece of cheese wire, always remember you are a person not a piece of cheese.

5. Many people suffer from the dreaded disease that is ‘four boob.’ Some are not aware of it but it’s pretty difficult to miss. Just go and get your bra fitted properly, it doesn’t take much. Be generous and stop people from going blind when being met by a free wheeling, unsupported set of four boobs. There’s no need to give your boobs two more friends, their not lonely they do have each other, its not a community gathering, so get rid.

These moments of madness are everywhere, designed to catch you unawares and when you least expect it. Make sure you do not fall victim to these absurd fashion failures. Fran Mawson

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3. There’s nothing more pleasing than a brand new pair of shoes. You’ve taken the time to choose them, try them on in the shop, pick out the perfect size, colour style and wear them in at home before you wear them out. If you have taken the time to do all this how difficult is it, really, to remove the stickers from the bottom? A common mistake spotted everywhere, if you look close enough. It may only be a small moment of madness but it’s all in the detail and there is nothing worse than walking behind someone, admiring their shoes and then being met by the flash of a dirty half peeling sticker.

29-31 Corporation Street Town Centre, Lincoln LN2 1HL 01522 546 231 www.birdys-boutique.co.uk

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A Very British Affair Britain gives the rest of the world a serious run for its money when it comes to designer collaborations. But just what is it that makes these combinations work so well? Susan Cobbold investigates…

THERE ARE SOME THINGS IN LIFE THAT COME TOGETHER TO MAKE THE PERFECT COMBINATION; toast dripping with warm melted butter, pancakes and lemon, plump, juicy strawberries encased in molten chocolate. What makes them work so well together is the way their individual flavours come together to create something different, new and exciting. The same can be said for designer collaborations. Each brings a certain ‘flavour’ or brand ethic into the equation to create something exclusive you, the consumer, would want to own. Fred Perry stands alone as a fantastic street wear brand but add a little Stussy mod-surfer magic and you’ve got something to appeal to an untapped part of the demographic. Other fantastic examples include Raf Simons for Fred Perry, EASTPAK and Christopher Shannon, a crazy Jeremy Scott for adidas and Kim Jones who transformed Umbro’s dowdy image with his innovative designs. This spring, we can look forward to yet another offering from Raf Simons and the quintessentially English Fred Perry. Full previews are available on High Snobiety and a small selection is already available to buy. The collaboration began back in 2008 when the two brands came together to create a twelve piece collection of polos and knit wear inspired by 1960s Fred Perry ski-wear. It revolved around Fred Perry’s iconic laurel logo. Simons took this one step further, using the logo as a centre piece in his fall 2009 minimalist goth style collection. This season, Simons brings us a very simple collection with unusual finishing touches. The startlingly short mod-style collars of the polos are finished in strong, vibrant colours, including some daring neon options. On other polos, black meshing covers lime green giving a double-layered effect. But how is that that a Belgian designer with a background in industrial design combines so well with the father company of British sports to street wear? Fred Perry as a brand was born in the later 1940s after Wimbledon champion, Fred Perry was approached and asked to make and market a new lightweight sweatband. With the success of the bands, Perry created his polo shirt and advertised it by wearing it himself and handing them out to other players to wear. It was quickly picked up by Mods as the material was durable enough to be IMMERSE // 31

worn all night. It was this group that pressurized Perry to add tipping to collars and sleeves. Thus Fred Perry became the first sportswear brand to cross over into streetwear. Its appeal was attached to an ethic that you didn’t have to be privileged to wear the brand, just stylish. Perry beat privately educated Jack Crawford in a Wimbledon final, but the official later described Crawford as the ‘better man’ depite Perry’s triumphing talent. This ties in well with the Raf Simons core values of attitude, statements about individuality and independence. The strength of the values of both brands combined with Fred Perry’s classic English modpreppy style and Simons’ individuality is a recipe for success. Raf Simons’ uniqueness cleverly enhances, not overpowers the already perfectly established Fred Perry. Smart move. Unsurprisingly, Fred Perry became disillusioned with the British class system and thus sought American citizenship. It is perhaps only natural then, that the brand today has collaborated with U.S punk surfer brand, Stussy. It has boldly been dubbed a ‘hybrid of the two most important and original street wear brands in apparel history’. Stussy launched in 1979 by Shawn Stussy who first put his iconic signature on surfboards and then on to t-shirts. His style influences were surfer, skate wear, hip hop, reggae, surplus and classic preppy wear and he soon gathered a ‘tribe’ of followers. The preppy influences tie in nicely with the Fred Perry image, with the remaining influences combining together to offer a collection described as ‘Wimbledon meets Malibu’: sportswear meets the seventies U.S west coast ska scene. The collaboration forms part of Fred Perry’s ‘Blank Canvas’ campaign and has also featured Ann Sofie Back and Liberty. This spring’s Stussy collection, however, brings us slim fit Perry shirts in Stussy plaid, a tennis bomber and a leather and plaid varsity jacket in muted grey, black and dusky blue. While it’s a slight break away from the standard Fred Perry look, the two work together so well because they are able to combine American cultural references with Fred Perry’s iconic ‘London style’. The resulting look offers a sort of edgy preppy look with a dash of punk thrown in for good measure. If you like buttoning your collar all the way up, this look might just be for you.

‘ LOVE OR HATE

A firm favourite amongst avid limited edition collectors, is Christopher Shannon’s backpack line for EASTPAK. A recent St Martin’s graduate, Shannon’s aesthetic, in his own words is ‘reworked luxe sportswear, tight colour palettes, overbearing prints’. There are no ‘overbearing prints’ in this collection but his desire for a high quality finish shines through and complements EASTPAK’s ‘built to resist’ philosophy (all standard bags come with a 30 year guarantee). EASTPAK’s durable but fashionable bags were born out of an observation that forward-thinking students were adopting the use of military backpacks as book bags. Shannon has injected his own glossy finish to the collection, re-working classic styles such as the Padeler Pak and Rugged Pinnacle bags by giving them a futuristic feel. The new styles come with a glossy patent finish in sport luxe colours such as ice blue, cool grey, crisp white and azure turquoise. The collection is currently available to buy but it is limited edition and there are just 11 styles to choose from. Shannon says: ‘my aesthetic comes from taking things that I like that are garish and making them slick. I like giving pieces a high quality finish’. Although EASTPAK isn’t necessarily garish, its built to last ethic fits in perfectly with Shannon’s desire for a ‘high quality finish’. Shannon takes that ethic a step further, giving EASTPAK the gloss and sense of exclusivity it needs to appeal to the limited edition market. He takes something very functional and makes it into something both functional and beautiful. Now for a little walk on the wild side. For those with a passion for wacky, madcap sneakers, look no further than Jeremy Scott’s collection for adidas. Established in 1997, the Jeremy Scott brand is about transforming low brow culture into something high art. While its more conceptual than wearable, this shoe collection will appeal to those who don’t mind a little of something garish in their lives. On first glance, it seems an unlikely pairing; the worlds number two sportswear retailer and the man who sent the Flintstones down the catwalk. Luckily for Scott, however, the adidas mantra is ‘impossible is nothing’, so perhaps it was only natural they should welcome contributions from such an outrageous designer. The current collection is, unsurprisingly, inspired by rock stars and features detailing such as rhinestones, fringing and some wild prints including a very limited rainbow edition. Colours are varied,

there’s the standard adidas black and white, and some bronzed metallics as well as vibrant oranges, purples and yellows. Another key feature is the tongues. A few pairs have an over sized tongue feature but if that’s not outlandish enough, the JS 3 tongue is exactly what it says on the tin, a shoe with three tongues. So how is it that two very different brands can come together to create something good? Adidas isn’t exactly a wallflower company, it’s been very successful in branching out to street wear and the Scott collection has only enhanced its appeal to a handful of hard core, street style savvies. The collection isn’t for the faint hearted but you can’t argue it’s not innovative and akin to gold dust for some dedicated fans.

THEM, DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS ARE PART OF WHAT KEEPS BRANDS INTERETING.’

Another notable and rather less brash footwear collaboration is Kim Jones’ collection for Umbro. This will be his ninth season with the British sportswear brand after the pairing began back in 2007. The Kim Jones aesthetic is one of streetsavvy casualwear with a highly refined design element to it. Not something that combines very well with Umbro’s aging football one. Not surprisingly, Jones wouldn’t initially agree to the collaboration, citing Umbro as too ‘chavvy’. However, Jones soon saw its potential appeal to the Asian market and injected his tailored aesthetic into Umbro’s traditional sportswear one. Keeping to Umbro’s football roots, the Spring/Summer 2010 collection is inspired but the World Cup to be held in South Africa. With this in mind, styles such as the Perennial, Romp, Runner and Zamboa have been reworked in a graphic feather and Vivafrican pattern. Colour-wise, there are pinks, blues as well as traditional rich, earthy African shades. For a company who doesn’t normally do style, Umbro’s offering us a pretty stylish line. Jones’ tailoring skills are exactly what Umbro needed to bail them out of their dull football hole and the combination works so well because of Jones’ talent as a designer. He doesn’t remove Umbro’s essence; he merely enhances it, making it up to date and cool. Love or hate them, designer collaborations are part of what keeps brands interesting. We all know (and love) Fred Perry’s set formula, but throwing in designers from Raf Simons or Stussy adds just that but more intrigue and can help open up the brand to an untouched part of their market. It’s a win win situation for brands and consumers alike. fashion // 32

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got no strings To hold me down To make me fret, or make me frown I had strings But now Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m free There are no strings on me

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top: River Island

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1. dress: warehouse 2. dress: New Look

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playsuit: Miss Selfridge

headband: Primark

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1. shirt: Topshop 2./3. playsuit & belt. Miss Selfridge

// tie: Burton dress: New Look

headband: Primark // shoes: Dorothy Perkins

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I’ve got no strings So I have fun I’m not tied up to anyone They’ve got strings But you can see There are no strings on me dress: Warehouse

ring: Primark

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FRAN MARCHESI // young designers profile

Fran is a 21 year old student at Central Saint Martins studying a BA (Hons) Degree in Graphic Design. Her portfolio of work is diverse and vibrant, with a strong illustrative presence. Many of her pieces are hand drawn with a great attention to detail. As well as being a full time student, Fran also manages an online, screen printed t-shirt company, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;idle eyesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; along with two fellow creatives. Following is just a taste of what she has produced, please visit her websites for more: http://idleeyes.co.uk franmarchesi.tumblr.com

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flyers for idle eyes promotion

empty vessel poster: available to buy via the print club online shop

2 layer screen print for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Bunny Showâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; - an exhibition that was held at the Rag Factory, London, December 2009

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2 colour silk screen print, hand pulled poster. Created for the ‘Modern Life’ exhibition at club night ‘The How’.

Entry for the ‘You Vs. Boxfresh’ online competition

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Illustration project to design a range of coffee cups based on Brick Lane, East London

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www.absolutevintage.co.uk 15 Hanbury Street London E1 6QR 020 7247 3883

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BRITISH FILM INDUSTRY “What is it now?” The current state of the British Film industry and the future for young filmmakers. words by John Clement-Smith

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The British film industry has always faced many trials and tribulations. From the boom of the 1950s and 60s, to near extinction in the 1980s, the nation’s film industry has always seemed to have something to moan about. With the world now in financial turmoil and the future of many industries in doubt, what will become of one of our most vulnerable and beloved British art forms?

THE BRITISH FILM INDUSTRY

has always had one major problem: funding. Unlike Hollywood it does not have a studio system this means that funding for film has to come from the government or private backers. The National Lottery produced the first ever public funding for the British film industry and in the 1980s was saved by Channel 4. However despite this British films still struggle to make it into the international mainstream. Will the impending recession put a stop to the little money all ready received by the industry? Many experts believe that, rather surprisingly, it will not. Yes, the perennial struggling industry may actually not do so badly in the impending financial misery that looks set to take hold of many other of the nations industries. Surprised? Don’t be. If you look back to the Wall St. Crash of 1929 you can see a similar pattern to what is being predicted for our very own recession in 2008. The film industry boomed in the years immediately afterwards. Despite every recession having a different impact, the experts seem to believe this may well be the case again. There seems to be one simple reason for this. It relates back to the fundamental reason that fictional films were ever watched: escapism and the suspension of disbelief. People will always have a love for films and the way they make you feel. They are also relatively cheap if you are looking for a night out. More and more people appreciate them as an expressive art form but perhaps more importantly, they are seen as a way to forget your own troubles. A good film should take you away and into another world and life. It doesn’t seem to even matter if it is a happy film intended to make you feel good; as long as it takes you far enough away from your own problems it is fulfilling its purpose. The unlikely truth is that rather than fearing for its life the British films could enter a run of prosperity. Clare Binns, Director of programming, City Screen (largest boutique cinema chain in the UK), said in a

recent interview “When times are bad you want to be out there, and, as long as we continue to offer the films, I’m not worried about the downturn at all.” With small budget films benefitting from the tax breaks there could even be an increase in “quality” features getting more recognition.

‘A good film should take you away and into another world and life. It doesn’t seem to even matter if it is a happy film intended to make you feel good; as long as it takes you far enough away from your own problems it is fulfilling its purpose.’ David Kosse, President of Universal Pictures International, claimed in a recent interview with the Times that he remained “very optimistic, especially about the British film industry” he went on to say that this was down to “a great infrastructure, phenomenal talent and stories that can resonate on a global scale”. This new found confidence seems to come partly off the back of an excellent 2007 for the British film industry. British films made an estimated £1.65bn in global ticket sales, a rise of 50% on 2006. The British Film Council says that a large reason for this success is Harry Potter, now as much as a British institution as James Bond. The Order of the Phoenix made £49 million in Britain and £469 million worldwide. Tessa Ross, Head of Channel 4, has been reported as saying that while film remains important to people, the film industry will continue to produce films for people in hard times. It appears then that this trend looks set to continue. She also agrees with the belief that low budget films will remain unaffected, vital news as in the past they have looked extremely vulnerable and have often been the first to feel the effects of the industries financial hardships. There are already examples of the film industry doing well when others have struggled. For example it has been reported that already British television exports, which in the past have been very successful, take

the Office and Strictly Come Dancing for example, have already started to decline in the wake of the recession. Television has a reputation of being more secure than film but now it appears the boot is on the other foot with big British films, not only Harry Potter but also The Golden Compass and Mr Bean’s Holiday, driving British films overseas. However, despite the positive predictions, it can’t be denied that the British film industry has many obstacles to overcome, a key one being Hollywood’s dominance in Britain. Colin Brown, film commissioner for the UK Film Council, described Britain and the world’s dependence on Hollywood in an interview with the Independent this year by saying “When Hollywood sneezes, the global film industry catches a cold”. Britain still has a massive reliance on Hollywood and while aforementioned blockbusters do make an impact abroad, they are still exceptions. American films have taken over the screens in the cinema and on the TV, filled up shop shelves and are the talking points in are playgrounds. However, this is nothing new. Britain rolled over and accepted American film in the same way it did the arrival of McDonalds and Coca-Cola. Dr. Stacey Abbott, lecturer in film studies at Roehampton University, believes that “In any English speaking nation, Hollywood will always dominate” This will come as no surprise to anyone who has been to the cinema pretty much since the end of World War 1. She also believes that “One big reason British films don’t succeed in the States is that the American market is less receptive to our culture and lifestyle. In the UK we’ve been flooded with Americanization, we’re used to it”. Despite the belief that the recession may not impact of the industry too heavily, the continued American dominance and the confusion of the tax credits system is still driving more and more established British producers and directors away from our shores to find cheaper ways of making film. For a film to be granted tax breaks in this country, it now has to pass what is known as the “cultural test”. film // 50

This has a few major problems. Although it means that it is no longer possible for corrupt producers to abuse the Article 48 tax breaks, it does seriously deter any foreign producers filming at our studios. It also means that co-productions, which contribute massively to the British market, have seriously outside our little island do not pass the cultural test. This is seriously damaging for the industry. The amount of technicians, set builders, cameramen, designers, make-up artists and tea boys currently out of work in this country comes as a direct result of a lack of foreign productions in the UK. Perhaps then the recession could hit these out of work film workers harder than some critics have anticipated. Professor Michael Chanan is a film maker and writer with a vast experience of production both in Britain and abroad. He has further concerns as to the impact of the tax credits and in particular the cultural test, “Nowadays, films are regarded as British, according to government guidelines, regardless of theme, setting, or stars” He quotes the example of Judge Dredd (1995) which on the surface seems very Hollywood. Despite the American star and production, it is classed as British as it was shot in London and the majority of the payroll was spent in Britain. Whereas films such as The English Patient (1996) are not classed as British as a lot of the post production was done abroad and the $27million budget came from Miramax, an American company. Chanan believes that the only reason Judge Dredd was shot in the UK was because it is “an example of what the industry calls ‘runaway’ production, Hollywood going abroad to take advantage of lower labour costs, tax breaks, and in some countries, exotic locations” the latter perhaps not being one of the key reasons for shooting in London. However, one big upside of the cultural test is that it does benefit small budget British productions. These films are nearly always directly aimed at British audiences; they have no problem negotiating IMMERSE // 51

the ambiguous cultural test and therefore qualify for tax credits. Take a film like “This is England”, Shane Meadows ode to working class Britain in the early 1980s, never intended for any other market than the British. Perhaps if the positive predictions of the recession do indeed prove correct then more films like this could enter our cinemas. This would massively help the British film industry, raise cultural awareness in this country and allow for some of those unemployed workers to get back to work. One big problem remains however, even if there is a steady increase in small scale British productions, there will still be unemployed professionals. Without the bigger foreign co-productions and with many of the more regarded filmmakers moving abroad to shoot, employment in the film industry will remain poor. This means that even if those predictions come true and financially the film industry does not suffer, until the tax breaks system is reassessed the film industry, like many arts based industries, will remain notoriously difficult to get into in any role. Dr Stacy Abbott is always understandably weary. “You have to have a real passion and drive. It will always be a difficult industry [...] I would never deliberately put someone off, but I would always tell them to be cautious”. Virtually every school, college and university now offers a filmmaking course. But with so few jobs available what will happen to graduates with the grades but no opportunities? I was curious to see whether young filmmakers are being given the real life advice they need before taking further steps into the industry. There can be no doubting that success in any aspect of the film industry can lead to fortune, and in some cases fame, but like so many of the arts industries there are a lot of people who end up jobless and dissatisfied with their chosen career path. Luke Butler, a twenty-two year old student in London, spent time working in a secure city job only to give it all up and have a stab at the film industry. “I was bored of the same old routine; the fear of doing

the same thing forever drove me to want to do something more creative” Luke has aspirations of becoming a script writer “I love the idea of people seeing something that’s from my own mind” but does he know the risks and pitfalls of the British film industry? “My lecturers haven’t really told me much about how to go about getting into the industry, if asked maybe they could give me some advice, but I think they know just how tough it is”. Luke however seems under no illusions, “It scares the hell out of me knowing the amount of competition out there” and with the recession deterring all industries into hiring staff, he seems right to be cautious as although there may be a boom in audience attendance, it is quite possible that film industry employers will be very unlikely to hire young postgraduates. Every day when you turn on the news, there seems to be another disheartening financial blow. Unemployment at a new low, another bank closes its doors, the national debt raises yet again; whatever the story may be, the media has made it quite clear just how tough the current situation is. However, the film industry remains just as attractive for any creative person. Luke believes on his course alone there are around 350 people, so why do people continue to risk the film industry? The answer could be anything. One possible explanation however, could be what this whole article is about. The British film industry has faced many challenging times, perhaps the “credit crunch” is just another obstacle for this most resilient of industries to overcome. Anyone who knows anything about the nations cinema will know that its had a chequered history to say the least, so therefore maybe the current global crisis scares filmmakers less than bankers and businessman. And perhaps somewhere there are wizened British directors sitting in their mansions or council houses chuckling to themselves and thinking, “Ha! ‘Credit crunch’? Now you know what it’s like to be in the film industry!”

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; I was curious to see whether young filmmakers are being given the real life advice they need before taking further steps into the industry.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Dr Stacy Abbott

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glasses: primark

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denim shirt: primark

dress: primark

FAIRGROUND FLORALS

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dress: primark

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belt: topshop

dress: birdys boutique

ring: accessorize

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1. dress: primark

leggins: topshop

2. dress: birdys boutique 3. dress: primark

sandals: primark

belt: topshop

watch: oasis

sandals: CALZADOS CHAVALĂ?N

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dress: primark watch: oasis

// //

belt: topshop

sandals: CALZADOS CHAVALĂ?N

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top: primark

sandals: primark

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shorts: handmade // //

glasses: primark

scarf: vintage clothes fair

top: primark

sandals: primark

shorts: //

scarf: vintage clothes fair

glasses: primark

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jumper: primark

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playsuit: monoboutique

1. top: primerk

2. jumper: primark

scarf: vintage clothes fair //

3. denim shirt: primark

playsuit: monoboutique //

dress: primark

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denim shirt: primark

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dress: primark

sandals: primark

www.stolenrecordings.co.uk

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Hepworth Arcade, Silver Street, Hull, East Riding of Yorkshire, HU1 1HX