knit
a h s pe FOR YOUR
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or many women we're seldom happy with our body shape, but in order to create knits which flatter our shape we need to accept what we have, highlight the features we love and disguise the ones we don't! LK's Kerry Knight Maher has grilled those in the know to help us all achieve knitted garments that not only are we proud to wear but that make us look sensational.
Embrace your body shape
First things first, you need to establish your body shape so that you can learn what elements of a garment suit you and what you should steer clear of. Knitwear designers, as well as others, all use different terminology for this; you're all used to hearing different fruits (apple, pear) or even shapes (hourglass, triangle) to describe what shape you are but Amy Herzog, author of Knit to Flatter, keeps it simple by identifying three types of body shapes – Top-heavy, bottom-heavy and proportional.
Learn how to knit garments that your body loves to wear
The greatest form of flattery
The goal here is to create the illusion of a balanced figure, generally topheavy shapes will be looking to distract attention from their shoulders and bust, bottom-heavy will be doing the opposite and proportional will be highlighting their special characteristics.
LINE 1
To identify which category we fall into, Amy asks her readers to take two photographs of themselves (suggesting the appropriate kit of a camera, tape measure and glass of wine!), one front-facing and one side profile. Taking the front-facing photo, we need to draw four lines: Line 1 – draw a line from one armpit to the other Line 2 – draw a line across widest point of bust Line 3 – draw a line across narrowest point of waist Line 4 – draw a line across widest point of hip region
LINE 2
LINE 3
LINE 4
Now comes the comparison stage, draw a vertical line from the widest of lines 1 and 2 down the photo past line 4. This line identifies which shape category we are:
Vanessa’s shape is proportional
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1 2
Proportional – if line 4 is slightly wider than the widest out of lines 1 and 2 Top-heavy – if line widest out of lines 1 and 2 is the same as or slightly larger than line 4 Bottom-heavy – if line 4 is larger than the widest out of lines 1 and 2
3
Using your side profile picture, you can now establish whether you have special characteristics that add to your body shape such as a large bust, some extra cushion around the tummy area or a flat or curvaceous bottom. Fulfilling this first, and very important, process allows you to identify your overall shape
and your curves (or lack of curves) and enables you to address where you need to modify areas of a pattern for the garment to fit your own body perfectly.
The last piece of the puzzle is to note down all the measurements shown in the image, to identify sleeve lengths, bust, waist, hips and so on.
bottom
Opt for deep, wide v-necks, scoop, boat or cowl necks (draws attention to upper torso)
heavy
Bottom-heavy shapes generally have the pleasure of a narrow bustline, slender arms and neck, and will naturally carry weight on their thighs or bottom.
Accentuate upper torso through interesting necklines or patterns in upper third of garment
Modifications ● Additional waist shaping is needed ● Shorten garment length so hem finishes above hip line ● Bust darts may be necessary for those with larger chests ● Widening neckline will broaden shoulders
top
heavy
In addition to having a broader upper body, top-heavy shapes can also find that they have longer legs and slimmer upper arms than their counterparts.
Avoid high necklines - opt for deep vnecks, scoop, wrap or sweatheart necklines
Concentrate detailing along hemline (draws eye away from upper torso)
Avoid any detailing in the shoulder and bust area of a garment Add flared sleeves (makes upper torso look slimmer)
Top should finish on hip line (skims figure creating illusion of a more balanced shape)
Modifications ● Limit waist shaping on front of garment ● Add bust darts for ample bosoms ● Lengthen garment to finish on hip line ● Narrow the neckline to draw eye away from upper torso
Armed with our measurements, body shape and garment knitting dos and don'ts, we can get stuck in to our next knitted top with the knowledge of what modifications we should be looking to make. Adrienne Chandler’s tutorial on p76 covers the basics of waist shaping and bust darts, a great starting point for your quest to knit the perfect fit.
Keep sleeve lengths short, including cap or elbow length (draws eye upwards)
Knit to Flatter (RRP £15.99, Stewart Tabori & Chang) has a whole host of easy-to-digest information on knitting flattering garments, plus 18 patterns to get customising. Turn to p70 for a pattern extract that is especially flattering to a thicker-middled proportional shape.
Make sure top finishes above hip line
proportional Although the proportional shape has the lovely balance that we all aim to achieve, there are variations to this category including a very curvaceous figure, the figure with a thicker middle, and the straight-up-and-down boyish figure.
Maintain balance of shape by pairing design elements together
Match interesting necklines with hem detailing
For boyish figures, add three-quarterlength sleeves (draws attention to waist)
Use detailed vertical edges to accentuate curves
Keep length of knit at high or mid hip and couple with elbow or full length sleeves
Modifications ● Waist shaping is a necessity, and extra may be required ● Bust darts are needed for proportional shapes ● Shorten or lengthen garment to keep hem line at appropriate level ● Shorten or lengthen sleeves (balances out design features or accentuates aspects of body shape)
KEEP READING ON P68
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the next
e t s p
Sally Melville imparts her knowledge and wisdom of adapting and drafting knitting patterns through her book Knitting Pattern Essentials. Here's an extract from her book that is inspiring for knitters ready to take the leap into the unknown and begin modifying and designing their own patterns. “We don't love what we don't understand. As newer knitters, we often follow published patterns without question – patterns for garments that bear no resemblance to the clothes we actually wear. We finish the garment...or not...and it looks okay...or not. In the latter case, we're not quite sure what's wrong, but – without breaking stride – we're off to the yarn shop for more yarn. (Knitters are unfailingly optimistic!) But sadly, if this happens often enough, eventually, we decide we weren't meant to make garments and so restrict ourselves to knitting socks and shawls. For any knitter at any level, the first priority is to have fun. But what exactly does have fun mean? Does it mean to knit with joy and enthusiasm and the expectation of a perfect result? No, it does not. It means to knit with joy and enthusiasm and realistic expectations. If your experience is like mine, you might
Sally’s words of wisdom “Knit what you wear and wear what you knit by knitting pieces that are the same size and style as what you wear, and by knowing what your are going to wear with the garment before you knit it.”
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“Creativity is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.”
actually knit each piece of your garment twice (or more) before you get something that works. My mantra comes from the poet Maya Angelou: “You did the best you could until you knew better, and when you knew better you did better.” As we learn more and get better, we sometimes see – while knitting – that something is wrong... and that we need to rip. But if the thought of ripping makes you anxious...well, the truth is that you need to get over it. I routinely rip and I've long given up cursing. Please do not think of it as failure. Rather, it's an essential part of the learning process. As Albert Einstein said, “Anyone who never made a mistake never tried anything new.” The trick is to recognise mistakes early, learn what you need to not repeat them, then start over. Sometimes the 'mistakes' don't reveal themselves until the garment is done. That's okay, too. Just because it's finished does not mean it's a done-deal disaster. Most 'disasters' can still be turned into fabulous pieces. My career is a testament to this. As Winston Churchill said, “Creativity is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.” With tenacity and
optimism, this is exciting stuff! Once you fire your brain cells with the new skills you learn, you will crave a repeat experience. Once you repeat the experience, you'll gain confidence. Once you create something that is entirely your own, your sense of accomplishment will soar. And once you knit and wear something wonderfully original...well, who knows what life may bring?
Knitting Pattern Essentials (RRP £16.99, Potter Craft) is available to LK readers at the special price of £12.74 (plus p&p). To order call 01273 488005 or go to www.thegmcgroup.com, quoting R4118. The closing date for this offer is 31 October 2013. P&p is £2.95 for the first item and £1.95 for each additional item.
BONUS PATTERN
Head over to our website for the Candace Shell vest top pattern (above) from Knitting the Perfect Fit by Melissa Leapman (RRP £16.99, Potter Craft), another book that provides an insight into fully fashioned shaping techniques that will give your knits designer results.