A/W 2015 TREND HANDBOOK
AMY DENNett LEILA HALL KESSIE WHITE
CONTENTS
Visual merchandising
mismatched humans and technology LINEAR ILLUMINATIONS
fashion communication & promotion nottingham trent university fash20032
creative direction 5th generation recycling world of wood
graphics & print natural beauty understatement folklore
sportswear/menswear ski snug heritage nouveau explorer
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
mismatched This visual merchandising trend takes a pro-activist approach to the A/W season. It is inspired by a Do It Your Self vibe that comes from student arts and crafts and era movements. It is intentionally quirky and somewhat eclectic. This trend will see display inspiration taken from a combination of different eras and brought together to inspire a feeling of belonging for like-minded people, like a mixed media collage. Expect mismatched prints and handpainted type to highlight a handcrafted aesthetic. Displays will look artfully customised instead of overly manufactured. VM will showcase the designer’s personal creativity and will see combinations of clashing colours used to inspire positivity.
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This visual merchandising trend sees a unique blend of the advancement of technology and our human nature. It will be an aesthetic combination of digital techniques such as data and binary coding and handcrafted processes such as weaving and etching. Data codes will inspire shapes and patterns, and will be handcrafted into materials to create displays. Lighting inspiration will be taken from kaleidoscope and spirographic patterns and will be used to introduce colour into displays. This trend will be a reflection of how we can use technology in a more human way.
humans and technology 7
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LINEAR ILLUMINATIONS
Lighting structures and neon line-work are to illuminate store windows as seen in Berlin & Amsterdam early this year. As opposed to neon wording seen for the past 30 years, intricately designed logos in LEDS and creative lighting displays are seen in windows and shop floors illuminating store spaces instead and as well as modern visual installations.
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creative direction
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The way that mankind changes his environment is a growing trend. The launch of the latest iPhone showed us what a powerful tool technology is and it has been proven that by 2016, there will be one billion smartphones in global use. We live in a technologically driven world where every moment is captured and we are able to manipulate, distort and deconstruct images. Things are presented on social media and the Internet, which have been altered, blurring the line between what is authentic and what is false.
In artwork such as Thomas Ruff’s, he modifies his images by blowing up low resolution photographs, offering pixelated, geometric displays of colour. These projects are new ways to celebrate online malfunctions and are being displayed as a 21st century art form.
5th generation 13
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recyclying This is all about recycling discarded materials to create an eclectic DIY aesthetic. It is a blend of our social conscience and community spirit to drive a collaborative and eclectic design ethic that supports originality and the resourcefulness of our human nature. This trend allows the ​beauty of everyday materials that are usually taken for granted to be harnessed into something unique and wonderful to look at. Garment materials will be sourced on a more ethical and environmentally conscious scale. VM would see recycled objects reworked into structures and lighting fixtures to create an eclectic and new environment.
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beeswax
cranberry
kingfisher blue
prune
flame RED
blush
This trend within Creative Direction applies to a range of artistic outlets such as interiors, branding, art direction and more. Within branding, for example with German branding company Berlimo, the print is of pine, accessories such as stationary and phone cases made from wood and even the logo’s are in the design of wood shavings. The trend within interiors from bars, shops and showrooms is set to see a surge with a natural and minimal theme of bare wood.
world of wood
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graphic & print
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Gucci presented an androgynous yet romantic mood with youthful preppy badges
with a floral design. This design also broke the traditional mould and became a focal point for Dior’s designs. Apart from the occasional pop of colour seen; nature inspired garments were mostly neutral colours, featuring earthy browns and mossy greens.
natural beauty Nature beocomes a main inspiration used throughout Autumn/Winter 2015. Designers delved deep into the beauty of the natural world, using prints that ranged from gothic floral to patterns from an earthquake. There was a tribute paid to all things natural and sustainable, which also explored the concept that one day we will become selfsustainable ourselves.
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This A/W print and graphics trend will take on a stark and stripped back approach to patterns and print. Micro-patterns and minimal precision atop of a clean surface provide an understated element. Expect to see unusually placed type and heavily spaced out patterns; such as micro polkadots or stripes. This trend will be seen in both street wear and premium sportswear and will provide a contemporary and clean look. This print and graphic trend will give a near-future aesthetic to A/W fashion.
understatement 23
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FLAME
CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE
FOLKLORE PLUM
ROSEWOOD
This reoccurring trend sees The Secret Garden meet luxury quality with embroidered-like details and floral prints. The beauty of nature and the allure of fairytale mystique results in a dark, romantic trend with elements of country folklore and romantic pattern plays. The trend’s patterns are printed, embroidered, appliquéd with 3D elements; all with the similar floral design.
PERSIAN RED
MOROccan brown 25
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sportswear/menswear
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Comfort over style is seen in this trend of bulky, warm ski jackets for the cold seasons. More brands from Canada and Sweden are more popular with the classic ski-wear altered with a stylish design; well-dyed fur, luxury synthetic fabrics with the construction to flatter the figure; Canadian brand Mooseknuckle, who's ethos is of sportswear for the fun and flirty, have jackets that alter at the waist to slim the figure and the padding is designed to keep the wearer chic without the unnecessary bulk. More is now less.
ski snug 29
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This A/W trend sees design inspiration taken from heritage styles; with key prints being paisley and damask. This heritage design will be seen paired with 1970’s tailoring and styling. Variants of the colour pink will be seen in accent detailing and shirts creating a more unisex colour palette for the A/W season. Fabrics such as tweed, velvet and corduroy will be mixed to evoke a more luxury feel to this trend. Main colour themes for this trend will be Bitter Chocolate, Damask and Dusky Pinks.
heritage
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nouveau explorer For years, black has been the popular choice of colour, but now this has changed. Colour has slowly evolved in importance for menswear and has now been influenced by the theme of the military. Some say it is a continuation of the military green trend from last season, and others connect it to the leading theme of most collections, which is adventure.
deep cranberry
forest green
moss
juniper
mushroom
slate
Marc by Marc Jacobs referenced a military mood by using details like sturdy crepe soled boots and ample size pockets. This theme was continued through in his womenswear collection, which seemed to be inspired by suffragettes. Imagery of the military is also seen in Alexander McQueen’s collection where the Poppy was used to symbolise the remembrance of war heroes. The blue, crimson and moss green not only seem patriotic but also hint something of old world Victorian values.
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ohw? Whoshoes are a men’s footwear brand based in the UK, manufacturing their product in China. The brands ethos boasts authenticity alongside quality comfort and design.
ohw shoes 36
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
The natural, earthly colour palette of the shoes would complement an eco-friendly VM installation; with re-used materials to create shelving and structures. Becoming a more ethically natural brand would take the company from just selling authentic, handcrafted well-made products to also a brand with an ethical niche. Light bulbs placed inside of coloured glass or plastic bottles elevated high from the shoes will create subtle hints of colour to highlight the shoes on display and reinforce the ethical direction ohw could take as a brand. Inspiration could be taken from artist Federico Uribe to create wall or space displays made from re-used shoe laces; combining ethical VM with essence of the brand. 37 39
Wood as a pattern/print in branding would work well with whoshoes’ palette of earthy tones as well as the use of natural leather and other materials. Giving an brand idea of craft in the production of the footwear, the artistic theme of wood would compliment the industrial factor which is embedded into it’s brand essence.
creative direction 38
Ohw shoes are aesthetically classic which makes the heritage trend relevant to the brand. The heritage trend would work particularly well if incorporated subtly into an A/W range; providing an accent of the trend without it overtaking the product. Paisley and damask patterns would be worked into the inner and outer soles of the shoes; with shoe laces in paisley patterns and selections from the heritage colour scheme being an option for consumers.
Today’s designers are proving that a little floral embellishment is a fresh, modern way to go. The use of one strong pattern can be used as a statement in itself and Who shoes’ footwear could benefit from that. The use of natural prints can be applied in small details, keeping in touch with the brands minimal and simplistic style. Intricate prints added to laces, soles or even just labels would push the boundaries of their design, yet keep in touch with the brands essence and current trends.
sportswear/menswear graphic & print
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REFERENCES visual merchandising
creative direction
graphic & print
sportswear/menswear
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A/W 2015 TREND HANDBOOK