QUARTERLY FASHION SUPPLEMENT BY TANK
NIGO HUMAN M ADE: BATHING APE’S BOY WONDER GOES VINTAGE PLUS CHRISTOPHER SHANNON, LOU DALTON & OLIVER SPENCER ON HISTORICAL MENSWEAR + JOHNNY M ARR + VINCENT GALLO + THE BOUTIQUE BOOM & THE SEASON’S SHOPPING =-=-=-=-= ISSUE 25: AUTUMN/WINTER ‘11 MEN’S FASHION SPECIAL FOR THE OBSERVER
44 NIGO
45
NIGO
— THE FOUNDER OF BATHING APE ON HOW THE WEB KILLED THE “FASHION WALK” AND WHY VINTAGE A MERICANA IS THE FUTURE WITH HIS NEW PROJECT, HUMAN M ADE =-=-=-=-= INTERVIEW BY PETER LYLE TRANSLATION: TOBY FELTWELL
Tomoaki Nagao, AKA Nigo, was one of the three JLU[YHS ÄN\YLZ PU H ZJLUL [OH[ ILNHU PU VUL ZTHSS Tokyo shopping district in the early 1990s. In the `LHYZ ZPUJL P[ OHZ NYHK\HSS` JVTL [V PUMVYT [OL ^H` MHZOPVU VM HSS RPUKZ PZ IV\NO[ HUK ZVSK HYV\UK the world. <UKLY [OL [\[LSHNL VM OPZ TLU[VY [OL VYPNPUHS Z[YLL[ Z[`SL VIZLZZP]L HUK JVSSLJ[VY /PYVZOP -\QP^HYH HUK HSVUNZPKL OPZ MYPLUK M\[\YL <UKLYJV]LY KLZPNULY 1\U ;HRHOHZOP 5PNV JHTL [V ;VR`V PU [OL SH[L Z after high school, at a time when the certainties and JHYLLY Z[Y\J[\YLZ VM 1HWHU»Z WVZ[^HY IVVT `LHYZ ^LYL HSYLHK` ILNPUUPUN [V \UYH]LS 0UZ[LHK VM ILJVTPUN Z[HUKHYK ZHSHY`TLU 5PNV HUK ;HRHOHZOP MV\UK [OLTZLS]LZ Z[\K`PUN THNHaPUL JYHM[ HUK PUK\SNPUN [OLPY HKVSLZJLU[ VIZLZZPVUZ [V ILJVTL +1Z JVUZ\S[HU[Z HUK JVVS O\U[LYZ ^OVZL MHZOPVU HK]PJL JVS\TUZ ZVVU ^VU [OLT HU HYKLU[ [LLU MVSSV^PUN ;OL` VWLULK [OLPY QVPU[ IV\[PX\L 5V^OLYL VU (WYPS -VVS»Z +H` PU /HYHQ\R\ Tokyo – a short walk from Yoyogi Park, which [OL JP[`»Z [LLU Z[`SL [YPILZ \ZLK [V JYVZZ [V JVTL ZOVWWPUN VU ^LLRLUKZ WHYHKPUN [OLPY MHTV\ZS` [OLH[YPJHS V\[Ä[Z HUK HSSLNPHUJLZ TV\U[HPU ^P[JOLZ ISVVKZ[HPULK TLKPJZ .V[OPJ 3VSP[HZ HUK HSS [OH[ along the way. (YN\HIS` [OV\NO [OL UL^ ZOVW HSZV YLWYLZLU[LK [OL ILNPUUPUNZ VM [OL LUK VM HSS [OH[ V]LY[S` MHU[HZ[PJHS MHZOPVU HZ H KL[HPS MVJ\ZLK ML[PZOPZH[PVU VM product and P[Z YLHS ^VYSK OPZ[VY` VY ZJHYJP[` Z\WLYJLKLK P[ 5PNV»Z Z[YLUN[O ^HZ H J\YH[VYPHS HWWYVHJO [V [OL YLJLU[ WHZ[ JVTIPULK ^P[O H JVTW\SZP]L JVSSLJ[VY»Z \UKLYZ[HUKPUN VM ^OH[ THKL ZOVWWLYZ [PJR ; ZOPY[Z ^LYL O\UN VU ^OP[L ^HSSZ SPRL TVKLYU HY[ HUK SPTP[LK LKP[PVU [YHPULYZ ^LYL KPZWSH`LK PU NSHZZ ]P[YPULZ :THSS Y\U JVSSHIVYH[PVUZ IL[^LLU SPRL TPUKLK IYHUKZ PU [OL KPZ[YPJ[ LTLYNLK HZ H JSL]LY UL^ ^H` [V NLULYH[L WYLZZ JV]LYHNL HUK Z[YLL[ I\aa -PUHSS` PU HJJVYKHUJL ^P[O [OPZ T\ZL\T SPRL TPUKZL[ ZLSLJ[LK ZLJVUK OHUK KLZPNULY WPLJLZ ^LYL YLJHZ[ HZ ZVTL[OPUN L]LU IL[[LY HUK TVYL L_WLUZP]L [OHU UL^! [OL` ^LYL UV^ vintage. 0U [OL MVSSV^PUN `LHYZ [OLZL PUUV]H[PVUZ ^LYL LJOVLK PU [OL ^PKLY MHZOPVU ^VYSK 3\_\Y` >LZ[LYU MHZOPVU IYHUKZ ^OV»K SVZ[ [OLPY LKNL HUK NYV^U UHMM ZPUJL [OL º Z NV[ [OLPY NYVV]L IHJR I` ILJVTPUN TVYL L_JS\ZP]L PU [OLPY KPZ[YPI\[PVU HUK HY[` HUK Z\I[SL PU [OLPY HKZ (UK [OLU SH[LY I` YLKPZJV]LYPUN [OL [YLHZ\YLZ PU [OLPY HYJOP]LZ (TLYPJHU KLZPNULYZ SPRL 4HYJ 1HJVIZ VWLULK [OLPY
ÄYZ[ IV\[PX\L ¶ LZJOL^PUN [OL OPNO ZOLLU HUK ZUVI ]HS\L VM [YHKP[PVUHS OPNO LUK JSV[OLZ ZOVWZ MVY H TP_ VM NHSSLY` SPRL WYLZLU[H[PVU HUK PKPVZ`UJYH[PJ ^HYT [OYPM[ Z[VYL JOHYT ¶ HUK ÅV\YPZOLK ;OL TVZ[ SH\KLK MHZOPVU KLZPNULYZ [V LTLYNL MYVT ,\YVWL PU [OL `LHYZ [OH[ MVSSV^LK ¶ MYVT 9HM :PTVUZ HUK 4HY[PU 4HYNPLSH [V /LKP :SPTHUL ¶ V]LY[S` HUK YL]LY LU[S` TLTVYPHSPZLK [OLPY V^U [LLUHNL VIZLZZPVUZ ^P[O T\ZPJ HUK MHZOPVU PU [OLPY ^VYR )HJR PU ;VR`V 5V^OLYL L]VS]LK [V ILJVTL H JVTWHU` YH[OLY [OHU H TLYL ZOVW [OHURZ [V 5PNV»Z LZ[HISPZOTLU[ VM OPZ V^U SHILS ( )H[OPUN (WL 0[ YPMMLK VU OPW OVW J\S[\YL ZRH[LY Z[`SL HUK [OL WVW J\S[\YL WYLVJJ\WH[PVUZ VM V]LYNYV^U HKVSLZJLU[Z ;OL IYHUK»Z UHTL ^HZ PUZWPYLK I` 5PNV»Z SV]L VM Planet of the Apes HUK YLSH[LK TLTVYHIPSPH HUK ^HZ H RUV^PUN QVRL HIV\[ [OL ZLSÄUK\SNLUJL VM 5PNV HUK OPZ WLLYZ PU 1HWHU»Z ÄYZ[ ¸SVZ[ NLULYH[PVU¹ )` [OL LHYS` Z[ JLU[\Y` P[ OHK ILJVTL HU LTWPYL HYKLU[S` MVSSV^LK I` NLLR` MHZOPVU IV`Z HJYVZZ [OL ^VYSK and endlessly refreshed and expanded with new Z\I SPULZ ZWPU VMMZ HUK JVSSHIVYH[PVUZ ^P[O V[OLY IYHUKZ HUK OPWZ[LY ^VYZOPWWLK WVW Z[HYZ SPRL 7OHYLSS >PSSPHTZ HUK +1 :OHKV^ In early 2011, Nigo sold 90 per cent of Nowhere/ (WL [V H THQVY /VUN 2VUN YL[HPS JVUNSVTLYH[L HS[OV\NO OL ^PSS Z[H` VU HZ JYLH[P]L KPYLJ[VY MVY H[ SLHZ[ HUV[OLY `LHY ;OL IYHUK PZ IVVTPUN PU *OPUH I\[ ^LSS WHZ[ P[Z MYLUaPLK WLHR PU 1HWHU ¶ ZVTL thing Nigo acknowledged at the time, alongside his PULW[P[\KL H[ I\ZPULZZ KLHSPUNZ PU L_WSHPUPUN OPZ KLJPZPVU [V TV]L VU [V V[OLY [OPUNZ 7LYOHWZ Q\Z[ HZ PTWVY[HU[ [OV\NO PZ [OL VUL V[OLY MHJ[VY [OH[ 5PNV TLU[PVULK! SHZ[ +LJLTILY OL [\YULK ;OL IV` ^OV UL]LY NYL^ \W OHZ H UL^ SHILS /\THU 4HKL H]HPSHISL V\[ZPKL 1HWHU MVY [OL ÄYZ[ [PTL [OPZ ZLHZVU HUK H UL^ MYHTL VM YLMLYLUJL! TPK JLU[\Y` (TLYPJHU JHZ\HS JSHZZPJZ HUK ^VYR^LHY OPZ ÄYZ[ SV]L 0[ ZLLTZ WHY[ VM H ^PKLY UVZ[HSNPJ TVVK 0U PU[LY]PL^Z [OL º Z IYHUKPUN N\Y\ HUK HYJO marketer now talks longingly of fading Japanese [YHKP[PVUZ SPRL RHI\RP HUK VM [OL PZVSH[PUN LMMLJ[Z VM KVPUN L]LY`[OPUN VUSPUL ;OV\NO 5PNV»Z LZ[HISPZOLK PU[LYLZ[Z PU SVNVZ HUK SPMLZ[`SL HSS PUMVYT /\THU 4HKL ZV [VV KVLZ H UL^ SL]LS VM KL[HPS ¶ H YLSLU[SLZZ ULYK` MVJ\Z VU ÄUPZO ¶ [OH[ `V\ ZPTWS` JHU»[ HWWYLJPH[L \U[PS `V\»YL PUJOLZ H^H` MYVT [OL YLHS [OPUN 0»K VUS` L]LY HKTPYLK ( )H[OPUN (WL HZ H I\ZPULZZ YH[OLY [OHU KLZPYLK P[ HZ
46 Â NIGO
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