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Special Section: Ski Northwest—Your PNW Ski Trip Planning Guide
A Northwest Ski Trip Planning Guide to Alleviate Decision Fatigue
written by Ingrid Andersen
WE’VE REALIZED HOW precious time and travel are over the past two years of likely having little of the former and doing none of the latter. That sets high stakes on getting this year’s ski trip just right. Coming through the dredges of the pandemic has been difficult, and the winter outdoors and skiing are increasingly the antidote.
Because ski areas in the Pacific Northwest are in national forests, regulations prohibit development unlike their counterparts in Utah or Colorado where hotels, spas, restaurants, bars and shopping are all at the base or within a village walk. At many of our ski areas, it takes a little more planning and logistics to put together the perfect visit. In this piece, we will look at just how to do that at some of our favorite ski areas and bedroom communities.
Idaho’s Brundage Mountain Resort is rich with trails, 18,000 acres of backcountry powder and amenities in McCall.
John Webster Photography/Brundage Mountain Resort
Mt. Bachelor
Mt. Bachelor is the belle of the ball in Oregon. It has 4,300 of terrain, 12 chair lifts, 101 runs, 6 terrain parks, 3,365 vertical and days-worth of territory to ski. While Bachelor can be seen for miles around, it’s 22 miles back into Bend where you’ll find the first lodging accommodations.
While Bend’s lodging options were limited even five years ago, the industry has grown with the soaring popularity of Bend.
Mt. Bachelor is home to some of the best snow in the West and seemingly endless skiable terrain.
Anelise Bergin/Mt. Bachelor
Lodging
The first hotel coming back to Bend from Bachelor is LOGE, a cool remake of a lifeless motel that has ski lockers, a bar and a barbecue area with Traeger grills. Families will want to consider Tetherow, where there’s a bar and restaurants, as well as a heated pool, or The Oxford for the convenience of being in downtown Bend.
LOGE offers a comfy base camp for every adventurer.
LOGE
DINING + DRINKING
Dining options are easy and plentiful in Bend, where good food and good beer go hand in hand. To get the best of Bend, begin at its breweries. Deschutes Brewery is well known and worth the wait for its food and drink. Likewise with Crux Fermentation Project, the food and beer are divine and the views of the Cascades are not bad either. Bend Brewing Company has its own indoor-outdoor vibe downtown and wholesome craft beers.
Sipping microbrews and taking in the views at Crux Fermentation Project.
Crux Fermentation Project
The best vegetarian meals in Bend are at Wild Rose, a downtown northern Thai restaurant; Spork, a creative Asian fusion restaurant; and Kebaba, a Middle Eastern favorite among locals.
Cocktails are best served at Joolz, a downtown Middle Eastern restaurant; the new Waypoint at Northwest Crossing; or El Sancho, serving margaritas at either of its two locations.
WINDING DOWN
For winding down in Bend, there are easy and scenic hikes close by. The River Trail can be accessed in The Old Mill District and comprises a three-mile loop if you’re inclined, or just stroll any section of it until you’re mind has calmed. Drake Park alongside Mirror Pond is also a nice stroll if you’re staying downtown.
Walking the Deschutes River Trail in the Old Mill District.
Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon
For full body relaxation, try Spa W or the Radiant Day Spa in the Old Mill. Both have a full menu that will leave you in a better place on your ski trip.
Hoodoo Ski Area
The long-held Hoodoo moniker “steep, deep and cheap” is still relevant today as its runs may be steep, but Hoodoo’s prices are not. Hoodoo is relatively inexpensive compared to its Cascades neighbors, and it offers thirty-six runs, 800 skiable acres and five lifts. On the Santiam Pass, Hoodoo’s base elevation is 4,700 feet, 22 miles northwest of the charming, eclectic, Western-themed town of Sisters.
Hoodoo packs great value as well as plenty of fun with nearby resorts, spas and the charming Western-themed town of Sisters.
Pete Alport
LODGING
The lodging options for Hoodoo are as thrilling as its runs. FivePine Lodge in Sisters is a boutique property with beautiful and modern facilities tucked into a quiet wooded area. Many rooms have hot tubs and gas fireplaces. Up the road and closer to Hoodoo is Black Butte Ranch, a luxury destination resort with vacation rentals, restaurants and more. Either of these will ease the decision fatigue of planning.
DINING + DRINKING
A few favorites in the Sisters area are Three Creeks Brewery on the FivePine Lodge campus, Angelina’s Bakery for vegan and vegetarian food of the most divine quality and The Open Door for modern Italian cuisine and Oregon wines. Sisters Bakery on the main street, Cascade Avenue, also makes the mother of all fritters. A family of four could greedily share one.
WINDING DOWN
Both Black Butte Ranch and FivePine Lodge have trails immediately outside your door for a stroll into the forest. They also both have amazing spas to leave the real world far behind.
Mt. Hood Meadows
Mt. Hood Meadows woos advanced skiers with black diamonds and wins the hearts of those seeking accessible pricing, too.
Richard Hallman/Mt. Hood Meadows
Hood River could arguably be considered the winter bedroom community for Mt. Hood Meadows ski area, 35 scenic miles south. Meadows, as it’s known, has 2,150 acres of terrain, 2,777 vertical, 11 lifts and 87 trails. Its reputation soars with advanced skiers as its terrain offers a lot in the black diamond range. As much as it caters to the extreme skier, its prices are for the average Joe when it comes to resort pricing.
LODGING
Lodging in Hood River begins with the handsome and historic Hood River Hotel downtown. Not only is this a stylish and comfortable redoubt, if you’re already a season pass holder at Meadows, you’ll get 15 percent off your room rate. The adjacent Nordic restaurant, Broder Øst, is more reason to make this your lodging destination. The Best Western Plus makes our list because of its gentle vistas of the Columbia River and its proximity to Pfriem Brewery, one of the best in Oregon’s competitive field.
DINING + DRINKING
In the Fruit Loop of Oregon, Hood River sits at the nexus of great craft beer and wine, a nice problem to have. Perhaps the best way to split the difference is at restaurants such as Solstice Woodfire Pizza. Four & Twenty Blackbirds food truck at 5th and Cascade Avenue has beautiful vegetarian options. Double Mountain Brewery has delicious beer and the best truffle pizza combo. For the full experience, try Celilo downtown, which brings together local meat and produce and wine in a romantic atmosphere.
Hood River’s Double Mountain Brewery.
Double Mountain Brewery
WINDING DOWN
Water has a calming effect after a long day on the mountain. Hood River Waterfront Park runs alongside the rolling Columbia. If the wind isn’t strong, this walk will help you relax and reflect. Another interesting meander is the Hood River Pipeline Hike along the Hood River, and it continues on the top of an actual pipeline. For more body wellness, look to Spa Remedease at the beautiful setting of the Columbia Gorge Hotel.
Anthony Lakes Mountain Resort
Old-school, small-town Anthony Lakes Resort has all of the qualities for an Americana ski getaway. With both a cool alpine and exceptional Nordic trail system, this venue is truly an Oregon hidden gem. One lift serves 21 runs, 1,100 acres of skiable terrain and lies adjacent to 30 kilometers of trackset Nordic trails.
Skiing at Anthony Lakes Mountain Resort offers pure, Americana-imbued fun.
Alyssa Henry
LODGING
Baker City is your home base 35 miles southeast of the resort, where the handsome and historic Geiser Grand Hotel will nicely feed this nostalgic ski vacation. First opened in 1889, Geiser Grand today retains the splendor of centuries gone by.
DINING + DRINKING
For dining options in Baker City, Latitude 45 Grille serves local meat in the form of steak and burgers; graze Mulan Garden for good vegetarian options, and swing into Lefty’s Taphouse for local beers and pizza.
WINDING DOWN
If you’ve never been to the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, you should not miss this opportunity for your wind down. A trail outside of the center leads to actual wagon tracks from the Oregon Trail. That should be a grounding experience for all and a historic ending to a nostalgic ski trip through time.
Methow Valley
When the skis get skinnier and the trails get longer, you’re in the heart of Nordic country. One of the world’s best expressions of Nordic ski terrain is Methow Valley, where groomed trails wind more than 100 miles along the Methow River around the floor of the valley and into the surrounding forests. The string of towns along this part of the valley are Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp. Here, you are in a Nordic mecca in the Pacific Northwest.
Experience Nordic skiing’s Valhalla in the Methow Valley, where groomed trails wind through the valley and forests.
LODGING
The rustic River’s Edge Resort or Methow River Lodge puts you on the banks of the Chewuch and Methow rivers respectively and with hot tubs overlooking the calming rivers. At the more remote Sun Mountain Lodge northwest of Winthrop, many rooms have gas fireplaces and hot tubs and the lodge has two outdoor heated pools for winter guests.
Reward yourself at Sun Mountain Lodge, with its pleasing spa.
OCTC
DINING + DRINKING
Morning coffee and baked goods are best at Rocking Horse Bakery on the main street of Highway 20, at this point a trickle of a town avenue. The Mazama Store is a remote density of goodness with its deli and outdoor food carts. For old-school burgers and good beer, the Old Schoolhouse Brewery in Winthrop is the place. For dinner, the tiny town of Twisp has two outstanding restaurants—Tappi, an authentic Italian restaurant, and Linwood, a creative Asian fusion restaurant.
WINDING DOWN
Walk down to the community ice rink on the Susie Stephens Trail and, if you’re comfortable with ice skates, glide around the outdoor rink, taking in the fantastic Methow Valley all around you. Indulge in Sun Mountain Lodge’s full spa for some body work.
White Pass
At White Pass Ski Resort in Yakima, families will be set with many intermediate and beginner runs.
Shannon Mahre/Mahre Media
Less than an hour west of Yakima, White Pass Ski Resort sets up nicely for families, with half of its runs intermediate, a third beginner and a fifth advanced. In all, there are 1,400 skiable acres, with 2,000 feet of vertical covering six chairlifts and 45 runs. White Pass’s Nordic skiing comprises 18 kilometers of groomed skinny skiing.
LODGING
For those who want to get in the maximum number of turns, book a rental condo at White Pass Village Inn directly across the road from the ski resort. Otherwise, head into Yakima, where there are many compelling options. The Hotel Y, Ledgestone Hotel and Hotel Maison are just a few.
DINING + DRINKING
Yakima has a developed dining scene with many global cuisines to choose from. Nonetheless, Zullee Mediterranean Grill with its dolmeh, hummus, babaganoush and tzatziki; and Zesta Cucina serving a menu with cracked pepper steak kebabs, chop salads and Parmesan halibut should be on your radar.
WINDING DOWN
Serenity Day Spa is a good place to unwind from the day’s bump and grind. Or set your mind at ease at the Yakima Area Arboretum, along the banks of the Yakima River, open all days and from dawn to dusk.
Sun Valley Resort
The birthplace of lift-serve skiing and the nostalgic winter playground of Hollywood’s golden era, Sun Valley has charm, history, people-watching and more than 2,000 skiable acres. The main Warm Springs Lodge at Bald Mountain (Sun Valley Resort’s main ski area), was renovated in 2019 after a fire ripped through and gutted it in 2018. Rest assured, the glamour of the original was dutifully restored. The resort has 120 runs, 18 lifts and 3,400 feet of vertical drop.
Descend the legendary slopes of Sun Valley Resort and into its glamorous, storied past.
Jon Mancuso/Sun Valley Resort
LODGING
Lodging in Ketchum got a lot more difficult when the modern clean lines of Limelight Hotel entered the picture. Limelight was the first modern luxury alternative to the rustic and charming hotels of a bygone era. That said, the history and secrets of Ketchum are within the walls of the Sun Valley Lodge. A 2015 renovation updated its rooms and pool area and added a full spa. Both of these accommodations will provide a memorable Sun Valley experience.
DINING + DRINKING
The Main Street classics (Pioneer Saloon, Sawtooth Club and Whiskey Jacques’) may be overrun on any given weekend. Shoot for Despo’s for top-notch Mexican cuisine and margaritas. Il Naso is an intimate Italian restaurant out of the fray and with a deep wine list.
For cocktails, head back to Main Street to either Warfield’s Distillery & Brewery or to Limelight Hotel, where you can sit indoors or outdoors in a courtyard that overlooks a little park that houses the regional museum.
WINDING DOWN
Relaxing is easy to do when you’re in the Ketchum area. Head north of town on Highway 20 and pull off at one of the many trailheads along the Big Wood River. Outand-back hikes in this valley are restorative and de-stressing. For the rest of your being, there’s Zynergy spa, a full-service spa with a flair for body care.
Brundage Mountain Resort
Launched by a local mill owner, a potato mogul and Norwegian Olympic ski champion Corey Engen on Thanksgiving 1961, Brundage Mountain Resort has 67 trails, more than 1,900 vertical, 1,920 skiable acres and five chairlifts. Snowcat skiing unlocks 18,000 more acres of backcountry powder.
Ridgeline ripping in the backcountry, accessed by snowcat.
Brundage Mountain Resort
LODGING
Brundage Bungalows are comfortable, rustic cabins that feel like mini ski chalets. Shore Lodge has a heated pool, hot tubs, firepits and an indoor theater. The historic Hotel McCall in the heart of downtown McCall is another great way to experience McCall while on your ski trip. Overlooking Payette Lake, Hotel McCall’s current iteration came after being rebuilt from a devastating fire in 1937. It has an indoor heated pool and a spa.
Get the mini ski-chalet experience at Brundage Bungalows.
Brundage Bungalows
DINING + DRINKING
Rupert’s at Hotel McCall has a menu that includes vegetarian options, with many foods sourced from the farmers market. Himalayan momos, a black rice Buddha bowl and a mixed grill of elk are just a few items on an engaging menu. McCall Brewing Company has a mix of sandwiches, wraps and burgers along with a good portfolio of craft beer for a more casual dining experience.
WINDING DOWN
From downtown, you can pick up the North Valley Rail Trail McCall Trailhead behind City Hall and do an easy, scenic out and back. For the ultimate in relaxation, book services at Shore Lodge’s spa, The Cove, from massage to soaking immersion pools.
Snowbowl
Just 12 miles northwest of Missoula and in the Lolo National Forest, Snowbowl is Missoula’s alpine playground. With 950 skiable acres and 39 runs served by three double chairs, Snowbowl is a great balance of challenging black diamonds and proximity to a great mountain town. Like many ski resorts set in national forests, most lodging options (and most restaurants) are farther afield.
Chairlift views of Snowbowl’s black diamond trails.
Chris Henderson
LODGING
If skiing and snowboarding is your raison d’etre, then book a room at the slopeside Gelandesprung Lodge, with outdoor hot tub and food options nearby. The cool factor goes up at hot tub rooms at the renovated Thunderbird Motel on the banks of the Clark Fork River in downtown Missoula. If you’re traveling with your dog, Jacobs Island Bark Park is right out the door.
DINING + DRINKING
Try Plonk in downtown Missoula, a classic brick galley-style restaurant and bar for cocktails, massaman curry, shrimp and octopus ceviche and seared halibut cheeks. Boxcar Bistro at the Old Sawmill District is another good dining experience in Missoula. The French-inspired menu has bouillabaisse, raclette and chicken chasseur.
WINDING DOWN
To unwind in Missoula, book a massage at Sorella’s or, if the weather allows, lace up a pair of skates at Glacier outdoor ice rink and sip hot chocolate as you go.
Downtown Missoula offers dining spots including Plonk, with dishes such as grilled venison short-loin with brandy-currant foie gras.
Plonk
Fernie Alpine Resort
Fernie Alpine Resort’s vast terrain includes a village with lodging, dining and bars.
Fernie Alpine Resort
Unlike many of our featured ski areas, Fernie is the complete village resort with ski services, lodging dining, bars and a grocery store. Its skiing covers all facts of terrain. The lift-service alpine area has 2,500 skiable acres, with 3,550 vertical, 142 runs, seven chairlifts and a few restaurants on the mountain. Fernie also offers spectacular catski options for more advanced skiers who crave deep powder.
Getting to Fernie may not be easy, but definitely worth your effort. In southeast BC, it lies about 170 miles northeast of the Washington border if driving. Flights are available from Portland or Seattle and go to nearby Cranbrook with about a 70-mile scenic mountain drive to an oasis of Canadian ski nirvana.
For cross-country skiers, the Fernie Nordic Society manages a few ski areas nearby including the Elk Valley Nordic Centre just 5 kilometers back toward town. If you plan ahead for a special Nordic ski trip, book the snowcat up to Island Lake Lodge for 25 kilometers of skinny skiing, a spa and gourmet-lunch package.
LODGING
In the Fernie ski village, there are a few options which include: The Griz Inn, Lizard Creek Lodge, Snow Creek Lodge and Slope Side Lodge. The convenience of these for visitors whose activities center on skiing, is unmatched. Book Island Lake Lodge if you’re taking the Nordic plunge.
DINING + DRINKING
Cirque Restaurant and Bar boasts surf and turf plus a Parisian gnocchi dish on the menu. Its wine list is dominated by French reds and British Columbia whites. Legends Mountain Eatery has two kinds of poutine on its menu, plus burgers and sandwiches, beer and wine. Between these two venues, there’s little need to forage further.
Après ski at Cirque Restaurant and Bar.
Matt Kuhn
WINDING DOWN
First consider the Fernie Aquatic Center for its 25-person hot tub. Perhaps more important are two Canadian traditions you shouldn’t miss while in town—skating at the Fernie Memorial Arena, and curling, which you can do on drop-in Thursdays beginning in January 2022 at the Fernie Curling Club.
