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Protecting Washington's Orcas
from 1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Inserts: Oregon's Mt. Hood Territory; PNW Golf | April/May 2024
Preserving Prized Residents
Orcas of the Salish Sea
written by Ryn Pfeuffer
This summer marks the tenth anniversary since I completed The Whale Museum’s Marine Naturalist Training Program. This transformative experience ignited my passion for the marine wonders of the Salish Sea.
The program, a multi-day immersion into the region’s natural history, provided an invaluable education on the ecology and conservation of our local marine species. Led by dedicated naturalists, educators and scientists, it equipped us with the skills to work as advocates for the ocean and its inhabitants.
Among the stars of these azure waters are the majestic black-and-white orcas, whose presence in the Salish Sea is both awe-inspiring and humbling. Here, amid the rugged beauty of the San Juan Islands, we have the privilege of encountering two distinct ecotypes: the endangered Southern Resident killer whales (SRKW) and the transient Bigg’s orcas.
The SRKWs are celebrated for their tight-knit family units known as J, K and L pods, each with its own distinct social structure and vocal dialect. At their peak, the SRKW population consisted of approximately 200 individuals. Those numbers, however, have declined significantly in recent years, and the population currently stands at seventy-five whales.
For me, the term “blackfish,” the term Northwest Coast Native peoples in this region call orcas, took on a deeper meaning during my training. A year prior, Gabriela Cowperthwaite released her poignant documentary Blackfish. The eye-opening film shed light on the dark reality of orcas in captivity and prompted a seismic shift in public awareness about animal welfare and conservation. It was an exciting time to be part of that social impact.
During my time in the San Juans, I had the honor of learning from esteemed marine biologist Ken Balcomb, whose tireless efforts to protect the Southern Resident population left an indelible mark on me. (Balcomb passed away in 2022.) Through his work, I delved into the tragic history of the 1970 Penn Cove captures, during which more than eighty Southern Resident killer whales were cruelly rounded up and herded into nets in Penn Cove. Seven of these orcas, believed to be part of the Southern Resident community, were forcibly taken into captivity, including Tokitae, affectionately known as Lolita. Five whales lost their lives during this harrowing process. Recently, Tokitae died after enduring more than five decades of captivity at the Miami Seaquarium.
Yet, amid the challenges, there is hope. Each year, as whale watching season unfolds, I find myself drawn back to these pristine shores, eager to witness these majestic mammals. (SRKWs typically spend time in the San Juan Islands from May to September, but salmon availability significantly determines their movement and behavior.) From the tranquil beauty of Orcas Island to the rugged splendor of Cattle Point on San Juan Island, every new calf and sighting reminds us of the urgent need to protect our marine treasures.
As the Southern Resident Killer Whales (SRKWs) traverse these waters in pursuit of diminishing salmon populations, their struggle underscores the interconnectedness of all marine life. SRKWs are renowned as salmon specialists, with Chinook, or king salmon—prized for their size and fat content among Pacific salmon species—constituting approximately 80 percent of their diet. These whales also supplement their diet with other salmon varieties, with coho making up about 15 percent. Amy Nesler, a volunteer at Lime Kiln Point State Park, highlights a stark comparison with Bigg’s killer whales, which primarily prey on marine mammals like seals, sea lions and dolphins, with occasional hunts on other whales.
Over the past decade, Bigg’s killer whales have welcomed 130 calves, surpassing the entire population of Southern Residents, and continue to grow at a rate of approximately 4 percent annually. “They live in the same waters as the Residents and deal with the same noise levels and the same level of pollutants, yet they’re thriving,” Nesler said. “Because they have enough to eat. That’s what it ultimately comes down to: prey.”
As we explore these waters, protecting its marine wildlife in the Salish Sea is critical. “Watching whales, whether from shore or a boat, inspires more than excitement and adrenaline,” said Nesler. “It’s about joy, wonder and being in the moment—not thinking about the to-do list, the latest headlines, or anything but what’s happening in front of you (except maybe tripping on the rocks).”
Nonetheless, there are ways that all people can ensure the longevity of this fragile whale population in the wild:
SPEAK UP FOR A BETTER WORLD
Contact your elected representatives (www.usa.gov/elected-officials) and urge them to reject harmful amendments to the Endangered Species Act and the Marine Mammal Protection Act, both of which offer vital protections for this endangered population.
MAKE SMART SEAFOOD CHOICES
The Southern Resident orca whales predominantly rely on Chinook salmon as their primary food source. When selecting your next meal, consider alternatives to Chinook salmon or sustainably sourced options such as pink or chum salmon, which are more abundant. Explore sustainable seafood choices through resources like www.seafoodwatch.org and look for products labeled as Salmon-Safe to support responsible fishing practices.
SUPPORT LOCAL ORGANIZATIONS
Numerous organizations are dedicated to protecting the Southern Residents and supporting the Salish Sea. Check out The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor and consider adopting an orca. Additionally, you can contribute to whale and dolphin conservation efforts at www.whales.org. Explore the Center for Whale Research’s Orca Survey Outreach & Education Center. Or, you could volunteer with Whale Scout or Orca Network. Don’t forget to follow Orca Network on Facebook for updates on recent whale sightings, photos, videos and educational resources.
CLEAN UP TRASH
When you take walks on the beach, bring a bag to collect trash. You’ll often find plastic bottles, cans, food wrappers, cigarette butts, plastic bags and fishing gear littering the shore. Additionally, items like straws, plastic utensils, Styrofoam containers and balloons are commonly found debris. Unfortunately, these items pose significant threats to marine life and ecosystems, emphasizing the importance of proper waste disposal and beach clean-up efforts.
If you’re seeking structured volunteer opportunities, consider participating in the Great Islands Clean-up, an annual day of service organized on each of the major islands (www. plasticfreesalishsea.org/events). Typically held around Earth Day on April 22, this event brings together locals and visitors to clean up trash along beaches and roadways. Additionally, Puget Soundkeeper Alliance regularly hosts clean-ups and offers guidance on organizing your own events. Whale Scout coordinates twelve “Helpin’ Out” events annually, some of which include beach clean-ups.
VISIT THE WHALE MUSEUM
Before embarking on a whale-watching adventure, visit The Whale Museum in Friday Harbor, just three blocks from the ferry landing, to learn from experts about the marine life you might encounter. Explore exhibits showcasing various whale species in the Salish Sea, including the skeleton of young orca Sooke (L-112), and browse the gift shop for sea-life-related items, books, DVDs and more.
BE WHALE WISE
Adhere to the federally regulated Be Whale Wise guidelines (www. bewhalewise.org) to ensure the well-being of these majestic creatures. The guidelines entail keeping a safe distance from whales, reducing vessel speed to under 7 knots within a half-mile of the nearest marine mammal and consistently approaching and departing from the side, aligning with the animal’s direction of travel.
For more information on how you can help orcas, visit www.visitsanjuans.com/ how-you-can-help-southern-resident-orcas.
How to See Whales
San Juan Island stands out as one of the best places in the world for land-based whale watching, offering spectacular vantage points such as Lime Kiln Point State Park to observe orcas and other marine life navigating through the nutrient-rich waters of the Salish Sea.
Lime Kiln Point State Park volunteer Amy Nesler thinks the most fantastic thing is that in the Salish Sea alone, a relatively small inland sea, she notes, there are five different species of whales. “We have two ecotypes of orcas, humpbacks, minkes and grays. Plus, there are occasional outliers like fin and sperm whales. Then you get into the smaller cetaceans like harbor porpoise, Dall’s porpoise and Pacific white-sided dolphins with outliers like the Risso’s. I think sometimes people get so focused on one desired experience (usually the orcas), they miss the bigger picture,” said Nesler.
Here are a few places for land-based whale watching:
SAN JUAN COUNTY PARK
Located on the island’s west side, San Juan County Park offers 12 acres of coastal camping along Haro Strait, boasting panoramic views of the Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island. Ideal for kayaking, spot harbor seals, bald eagles and Dall’s porpoises. Explore rocky bluffs, tide pools and beaches, picnic in meadows or join guided kayaking tours from the park.
LIME KILN POINT STATE PARK
Explore Lime Kiln Point State Park, known as “Whale Watch Park,” on San Juan Island’s west side. Managed by the Friends of Lime Kiln Society (FOLKS), it offers free services, including an interpretive center, lighthouse tours and summer events. A short walk unveils diverse landscapes—rocky shores, woodlands—teeming with wildlife like seals, sea lions, otters, eagles and seabirds. The 1919 lighthouse, a beacon in Haro Strait, hosts summer tours. A seasonal gift shop and interpretive center enrich the whale-watching experience.
AMERICAN CAMP AND CATTLE POINT
Off South Beach at American Camp, San Juan Island, lies Salmon Bank—a prey-rich spot for orcas and humpbacks entering and exiting the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Wildlife thrives here as bald eagles and foxes roam grassy headlands. Watch seabirds on pebbled beaches while seals, sea lions and river otters hunt nearby. Not far away, Cattle Point Lighthouse features deer, eagles, seals and the distant grumbles of Whale Rocks’ Steller sea lions.
