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Special Insert: Destination Yakima Valley
from 1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Inserts: Destination Yakima Valley; PNW Golf | June/July 2022
Yakima Valley: a Three-Day Getaway
Taking in the fruits of a fertile land
Just 140 miles southeast of Seattle, the Yakima Valley is the Pacific Northwest’s agricultural center, home to more than 3,000 farms, including more than 130 organic farms. It’s the source of 50% of the state’s wine grapes and more hops than anywhere in the world. It’s your destination for farm-fresh flavors, hops and craft beer, wine and outdoor adventures.
Not only is the Yakima Valley the birthplace of Washington Wine, it’s ground zero for the vast majority of hops grown in the country. In fact, the Yakima Valley grows nearly three-quarters of the nation’s hops. As goes Yakima, so too go almost all of our beloved craft beer. Every visit to the area should include sampling the terroir of Yakima hops as expressed in local craft beers, but should also delve into some of the other stars of this agrarian community.
Over three days in Yakima, we sample beers, sip wine, enjoy farm-fresh flavors and find some outstanding places for paddling, fishing, hiking and peace of mind.
Day 1
The first day starts on the pristine waters of Rimrock Lake, a clear blue mountain lake along the White Pass Scenic Byway and surrounded by lush green pines. Either plan ahead and take your own kayak, canoe or paddleboard, or rent rafts, kayaks and gear on the way into town at Rill Adventures in Thorp. If you want to take the next stroke, book a paddleboard yoga class with Just Breathe Yoga Company and put your life back in balance. Also check out Mahre MADE as an option for SUP excursions on the Yakima River.
If you want to keep your feet on terra firma, try the nearby half-day hike from Indian Springs trailhead at Round Mountain, a 5.2- mile roundtrip with a steady climb of 1,700 with amazing views of Clear Lake, Rimrock Lake, Mount Adams and a peek of Rainier’s peak, on clear days. Clear Lake and Rimrock Lake are both excellent for kayak, canoe or standup paddle retreats.
While your day on the lakes or trails is exhilarating and refreshing, back in Yakima proper it’s time to reward yourself with some of the area’s bounty with locavore menus and great wine at wineries, vineyards and cellars in one of Washington’s top wine-growing regions.
For dinner, try Crafted, the passion of a husband and wife team who are obsessed with local produce. The menu includes chef-crafted dishes such as fingerling potatoes with garlic chimichurri, house-made pasta with foraged morels, and roasted beets with cotija cream.
After dinner, you can find live music, kick back settings and great wines abounding at wine venues in Yakima. In town, hit AntoLin Cellars’ tasting room for Frenchoaked petite syrah, Chardonnay and carménère. Likewise, Kana Winery’s tasting room is both good wine and a good scene, with local music always on tap.
Also worth the short drive is Owen Roe, 16 miles south of Downtown Yakima in Wapato. Owen Roe is a consistent top performer in the wine trade magazines and makes extraordinary pinot noirs and cabernet sauvignon from Yakima Valley fruit.
If you want to make wine a bigger theme in your visit, get the Yakima Valley Wine Country map on www.visityakima.com and plan your tasting tour of the regions that make up the Yakima Valley AVA. The best part about this wine region is that it’s completely accessible and unpretentious for wine newbies.
Day 2
Anglers, take note! While Yakima’s vast hop production may catch some by surprise, it’s well known that the Yakima River is one of the state’s best for fly-fishing and indeed Washington’s only blue ribbon fly-fishing river. Anglers come from all over the world to wade into the Yakima with rainbow trout in rocky shadows. Day two will be dedicated to the austere beauty and gratitude that comes from hooking trout on the Yakima and then retiring to places of comfort and craft beer.
The Yakima River headwaters are in the Cascades at Snoqualmie Pass. It runs 214 miles southeast to Richland, where it flows into the Columbia River. Check in at Red’s Fly Shop along the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway between Ellensburg and Yakima for local knowledge, gear and guided trips. Drop into the river beneath stunning basalt cliffs covered by a shrub steppe landscape. Raptors and bighorn sheep are also enamored with the Yakima River, so keep your eyes open for these uplifting encounters.
After you’ve had closer encounters with rainbow trout and you’re fished out head to Canyon River Grill for lunch. Start with char-grilled Spanish octopus and follow on with Zane and Wylie’s steak salad with smoked bacon, tomato, egg, onion, avocado, cucumber and crumbled bleu cheese. Canyon River Lodge is a luxury den in the middle of the wild and scenic stretch of the Yakima River, with ten two-bedroom suites all with floor-to-ceiling windows for relaxing, sweeping views of the river and the shrub steppe.
But before you call it a night, it’s time to experience hops— the mother of all bounties of Yakima. Two breweries—Bron Yr Aur Brewing Co. and Cowiche Creek Brewing—nicely showcase Yakima Valley hops. Bron Yr Aur, pronounced bron yar, is Welsh for “hill of gold.” Its beers have won regional and national awards, especially for Bron Yr Aur’s stouts and Scottish ales. Gourmet pizzas with beer-infused crusts are the rage at this local brewery.
In the small town of Cowiche 12 miles northwest of Yakima, Cowiche Creek Brewing is a great reflection of the valley’s hops and its outdoors. In a farm setting on the outskirts of town, this brewery is a kickback setting with hopped up craft beers. Chuck and brisket burgers the way they were supposed to be made are served with fries and good views. This is also a good venue to sample Washington apples through its local ciders.
As this is a beer lovers destination, check out the 21 stops on the Hop Country Craft Beer Trail at www.visityakima.com/ yakima-valley-hops-and-beer.asp.
Day 3
The best mornings start with good coffee and scenic hike. Grab your favorite coffee and head out to Umtanum. For a lovely and easy hike, try the Umtanum Creek Canyon Trail on the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway. The hike is a 6.2 mile round trip with only 500 feet of elevation gain. Wildflowers and birds are definite. Bighorn sheep are possible sights.
A more challenging but equally stunning hike is the Yakima Skyline Trail, a 4.2 mile round trip that gains 1,4500 feet. Down below, the Yakima River slinks southerly toward the Columbia. The ultimate goal of this hike is the crest called Gracie Point. If you’ve made it that far, you will be rewarded with some of the best views in the valley.
Seasonal produce is also on the agenda for the final day of your Yakima Valley weekend. Every Sunday, the Downtown Yakima Farmers Market takes place in front of the historic Capitol Theatre. More than seventy vendors showcase the best of the valley’s 40-plus crops from spring through fall. Come for berries, cherries and early veggies in early summer, then find peaches, apricots, pluots, apples, pumpkins, peppers and more throughout summer and fall. Sample artisan foods and spicy ceviche from local chefs.
The Johnson Orchards farm store and bakery in Yakima is a good stop on the last day to take home some of the goodness that brought you out for a tasting weekend. Depending on the season, cherries, apples, peaches, tomatoes, baked goods and more are worth taking home and for either freezing, jarring, jamming or eating. Think of each bite, each farmfresh flavor as a Yakima Valley postcard to yourself.