6 minute read
Washington-Grown Figs
The Fig Files
One of nature’s sweetest treats can be grown and enjoyed right here in Washington
written by Corinne Whiting
photography by Bill Purcell
FIGS HAVE BEEN with us since the dawn of humanity. Ancient Greek and Roman civilizations associated the potentially first cultivated crop with fertility, and even regarded the fig tree as sacred. They’re said to have been consumed by early Olympic athletes in training and to have been Cleopatra’s favorite fruit. Rich in anti-inflammatory antioxidants and high in fiber, the sweet product resembles a teardrop and is filled with hundreds of tiny edible seeds.
Michael Dolan, co-owner (along with his wife, Carolyn) of Onalaska’s 20-acre Burnt Ridge Nursery & Orchards, explains that figs are easy to grow from cuttings. In fact, they’re one of the first crops he grew when starting the nursery in 1980. “When an index of fig varieties was compiled in California in 1955, over 800 varieties were noted,” he said. “Since then, the list of known varieties in the U.S. has more than doubled.” As a species native to hot, dry climates—like in the Middle East—most varieties are not adapted to Washington. “It is too cold in Eastern Washington to grow them without protection in winter,” he said. “Western Washington lacks enough summer heat to ripen most varieties.”
At Burnt Ridge, they’ve spent forty-four years evaluating varieties for flavor, hardiness and the ability to ripen at their 1,000-foot elevation site in the foothills of the Cascades, which features an exquisite view of Mount St. Helens. “One variety, Gillette, does well but has such a mediocre flavor that we don’t bother harvesting or propagating it,” Dolan said. “The clear winner thus far for hardiness and flavor is Desert King—a green-skinned fig with red flesh. Other dependable varieties can include Italian Honey, Violette Du Bordeaux and Beall.”
Dolan noted that the Olympian fig, a tree fittingly discovered in Olympia, proves an excellent choice in the Puget Sound region, but a bit tender at their specific location. Little Ruby, LSU Purple and Violette du Bordeaux are natural dwarfs, suited for container culture, and can be grown on a patio or balcony.
In Eastern Washington, Dolan advises growing these varieties in a pot with big drainage holes; the pot can be buried in a spring garden and dug up in fall. “When all leaves are removed from the first frost, the dormant plant can then be stored in a pumphouse or garage, as it needs no light when dormant—only protection from cold weather below about 10 degrees Fahrenheit,” he said. “They can be brought in to a sunny window in late winter or early spring to get an early start, or just planted out the following spring.”
All of Burnt Ridge’s fig varieties are self-pollinating, can easily grow organically and don’t encounter any disease issues or insect problems. “To harvest, figs should be plump, soft and hanging down,” Dolan advised. “Store-bought figs, when you can find them, are harvested a bit under-ripe for shipping and storage. They never achieve the level of ripeness, sweetness and flavor of a homegrown one in a sunny location.”
Dolan believes figs are best when eaten fresh—by themselves or with contrasting flavors. “A split-in-half fig is great combined with walnuts or a strong cheese,” he said. “Or for meat lovers, a slice of prosciutto. They make delicious jam or tarts, too!” During summer months, the Burnt Ridge team sells fresh figs at their Olympia Farmers Market stand. About a dozen varieties of fig trees can be purchased through their website, too.
Eric Johnson, who curates the bar program at several Piatti Italian restaurant locations, typically likes fresh Black Mission figs when they pop up at farmers markets near his home around October. Aside from those, fig marmalade is his year-round staple. “For bar use, we really want concentrated fruit flavor,” he said, “so a fig jam is better for drinks, though munching fresh ones while making drinks is perfectly civilized.”
John Wahlke, chef and general manager at Seattle’s Fremont Mischief Distillery, prefers roasting figs. “I enjoy cooking them down in a nice port wine for sauces or jams, fermenting them for shrubs in cocktails and even putting a nice brûlée on them for cocktail or dessert garnishes,” he said.
Wahlke always tries to pick his figs while still a bit firm, as they can turn quickly. For roasting, he tends to go a little under-ripe, so that it still has some bite and body after cooking. Ripe or just under is perfect for dehydrating or serving fresh, he said. “Once they start to get soft, I usually will turn to macerating, making into a shrub, jams or even ice cream!”
He likes the second fall crop simply because more fig dishes are on his mind when the leaves begin to turn. Celeste figs are among his favorite as being “very sweet and juicy and beautiful fresh in dishes as well.” Wahlke always encourages sourcing from local growers, which are plentiful in Washington. “But in many Seattle neighborhoods, there are a variety of old fig trees that will produce a lot of figs,” he said. “So when you see one in a neighbor’s, a friend’s or even a random yard, try to make friends. Compliment the tree, and they will most likely tell you to come back and take as many as you’d like before the birds get to them!”
