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Fashion Moves Forward Veering to Vintage
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TRASHIQUE
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Central Valley Jewlery Star
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CANVAS BAG TUTORIAL
BIG MEN; BIG FASHION
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NOBODIES AND NACHOS
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CATALOG
"Fashion Moves
Forward"
Eleganza- a contemporary boutique nestled between the Black and White Market and Victoria’s Secret in River Park is a breath of fresh air for Fresno shoppers who still crave unique fashion. A boutique that earns its name, Eleganza slightly towers above neighboring retailers in classy black lettering against a white building. Inside, shoppers are greeted with a feeling of being transported to a metropolis where fashion reigns. Chic and spacious, manikins display the latest styles of the season in various active poses by the windows. One hundred percent leather Italian purses, boots and various styles of open toed shoes are meticulously displayed on white shelves to the right of the store, no more than two to three items per small shelf. In fact, every single garment is made from Italian textiles; primarily wool, silk and linen blends. Owner Ivana Egbuna is a firm believer in using only natural materials while each dress and skirt is chosen for their timeless yet trendy style. “I want women to feel unique and not like they are wearing something that they will see ten of when they are out around town, but will still be able to wear for a long time.” True to her word, Ivana only carries one piece of clothing in each size to encourage the exclusivity of the style. If it is not available in the store, she will gladly order another. While she encourages exclusivity in her products, she discourages it in her customers. Recognizing the added potential in having a multitude of shoppers in all ages in the River Park area, she welcomes anyone who enjoys shopping. “Right now my customers are mainly professional women and women in their early twenties, but I love the fact that a lot of different women come into my store. When I first moved to Fresno, the first thing I noticed was that there are a lot of beautiful women who like to look good and I want to help bring out that outer beauty.” In addition to carrying beautiful clothes, Ivana makes that extra effort in getting to know her customers by helping them put together the perfect look. “I think of my customers as my dolls and I want to help them look their best for whatever occasion they are shopping for. Many women come back, happily wearing what they bought to show me how it looks together and I love that.” Customers love another thing that Ivana offersauthentic Italian clothes and accessories at competitive prices. Shoes begin at $180 for open toe styles and range to $350 for boots. On the left side of the store, the clothes rest patiently on hangers near two white couches. A small table sits in the center of the couches with coffee table books about Paris and Italy under a single circular modest crystal chandelier. Ivana is comfortable in the world of fashion, growing up with a mother who has always been enthusiastic about high quality clothes with sophisticated styles and owns a boutique in Belgrade, Serbia. Traveling around Europe to keep up with the ever changing fashion world with her mother, Ivana learned what to look for that women could buy without needing to go to the big cities and still be in vogue. A former Miss
Yugoslavia, her mother helped Ivana to appreciate outer beauty as well as learning how to be a strong person. In the early 1990s, Ivana fled from war-torn former Yugoslavia to have a better life for her two young daughters and husband. Living in Chicago, she only had her intimate family and network of other friends who were Serbia natives who also left during earlier political conflicts. With familiar faces around her, she was able to support her small family by as a photofinisher, working the nightshifts. After divorcing her first husband, she met Manny, a native of Nigeria, at a party in Chicago. Also having fled political conflicts, Manny went to Chicago and earned his Engineering degree. He was taken with Ivana , and her sense of style. “I noticed how well she always looked, and with her knowledge in fashion I knew she could run a store.” The couple moved last year to Fresno when Manny was offered a job in Lemoore and after Ivana was diagnosed with Breast Cancer. Nearly fully recovered, she is throwing all her energy into the store with her daughter Alexandra and two other girls. Her other daughter Tamara resides in Chicago. Eleganza is the first store Ivana’s family has opened in the United States. Spoiled is another breath of fresh air for Fresno, and a much trendier one. Any women out there like a little bling? This boutique on First and Herndon is every girl’s dream. In the shopping area that is home to T.G.I. Friday’s and Wassabi restaurants, the small boutique is now part of the stream of the casual shopper’s routine. The inside is like stepping into many women’s dream closet- a small table with stacks of different style jeans all ranging from light to faded to dark and to black, racks of faux leather jackets, dresses for casual wear and clubbing, even studded and sequin bras inspired by the ‘80s. A blood red chandelier hangs in the middle of the ceiling, accenting the “Hollywood” inspired décor with Marilyn Monroe
posters lining the top of the walls. Open for nearly a year, Spoiled offers shoppers a chance to get the current street trends often found in L.A., Miami and New York. The biggest perk is they don’t have to pay the big city prices for the same high quality items. “Everyone is always happy when they discover the store and can’t wait to come back after they found something,” says owner Caroline Gezalyan. Women in their thirties make up the majority of her customers, although women in their teens and early twenties are buying more of the dresses for clubbing. The Fleur-de-lis symbol in rhinestones and stitching appear on beanie and pageboy hats, shirts, and scarves. Imitation feathers and fur line some vests in shades of olive, black, gold and silver. Sequincovered dresses in bright neon colors display abstract patterns and silhouettes. Caroline describes some of the current trends, “Women are wearing the studded bras under tank tops and wearing the vests over thinner long sleeved shirts, usually with a beanie.” Caroline’s prices for clothes begin at $29.99. For jewelry and accessories, prices start at $9.99. Spoiled is a treasure trove of bling as far as trendy jewelry goes. A clear counter display of rhinestone rings, thick and thin rhinestone bracelets, and studded cuffs sits under the register. Jeweled necklaces, headbands and hair clips cover the shelves of the display and part of the counter. Spoiled is also one of the few boutiques in Fresno that offers plus sizes, up to 3X. She is currently having a 60 percent off sale on selected items. After moving from L.A. to Fresno when she turned 18, Caroline traveled to New York and Miami, keeping an eye on the fashion trends. Realizing that a large part of Fresno needs to catch up, she decided to open Spoiled to give Fresno the opportunity. “This is something that Fresno desperately needs to help us move forward in fashion.”
"Spoiled is another breath of fresh air for Fresno"
to By: Rebecca Renberg In the Central Valley, we are all trying to embrace our individualistic styles. There is no better way to do this than to become a thrift store monger or a vintage clothing connoisseur. We have to move away from consumer society and serious credit card debt at the mall. Macerich is the company who owns Fashion Fair Shopping Center and ninety-four other shopping malls in nineteen different states. Mace Siegel and Richard Cohen head up the company, they are bonafide billionaires. In December 2009, Macerich made $805.7 million in sales. Imagine how much that has grown since then. Answers.com has dubbed Macerich, the "mall doctor", you'll recognize their work when you see their top tenants who include: The Gap, Forever 21, Footlocker, Macys, Sears, and JC Penney. Often it is these types of stores homogenous offerings that keep us from embracing our individualistic styles. We are passing up many opportunities to be truly inventive when we shop at our local mall. People shop at the mall for various reasons, to be on trend, to show off a certain brand, prices and etc. The truth is, the mall is an illusion of community.
Everyone walking around each other in one single hallway makes you feel like you're part of something bigger than yourself, but that is a lie. No one is talking to each other, even the human being you're making a transaction with only wants what's in your wallet. Think about it, you wait in line for a parking space, you wait in line to try on clothes, you wait in line to pay for your garments, then the tedious task of leaving the mall which it seems like every other person is trying to do simultaneously. Vintage boutiques such as Bubbles Van Ness, Vintage Voola, and Yoshi Now serve up beautiful colors and textiles for a reasonable price, considering these garments are one-of-a-kind. Lisa Arnold who owns Bubbles Van Ness has been collecting vintage garments since she was seventeen years old. She opened a thrift store called "Lemon Girl" about ten years ago, and one year ago she purchased the building that houses her vintage store and her hair salon that are adjacent to each other. Some people are shocked when it comes to the prices of vintage
clothing, Lisa states, "It's a piece of history really, that's why I can charge so much." Vintage clothing will not always be around. These are garments from our past that were made with such impeccable construction so that they would last throughout the decades. Of course there will always be imitations of vintage as time goes on, but the true to era garments remain original. According to ehow.com, there are a few ways you can distinguish a fake. One is a "Made in China" white tag. Checking the quality with your fingers is another way you can spot a vintage reproduction. The originals are profoundly sewn, they do not possess frail and easily damaged characteristics. The last helpful tip is investigating for labels. There are many resources available for information concerning couture designers. Older vintage tends not to have size labels or content. If there is a tag, you can do research on the age of the garment; it has to be twenty years old to be considered vintage. The smallest details, the tag and brand, will be the most beneficial. There are other options to shopping in Fresno. One would be thrift stores. Another is the vintage stores who are supporting our local community. A third option would be local online Etsy stores, where sellers are doing the vintage clothing shopping for you! When you shop at the mall, your money is going into the hands of people who want to produce more chain stores, people who don't care about local businesses. All the stores you see in the mall are franchises that are strategically placed all over the United States. Your money is going to the top dogs who are using it to create more top dog, corporate chains. The answer is clear. When asked where Lisa would open up her store if she could choose anywhere in the world, she says, "Japan, because of it's eccentric, creative, cutting edge street style. They are not afraid of attention! Australia is also becoming very
fashionable." Her favorite eras are the 50s, 60s, and 70s and a staple in her closet is her trusty leopard coat. Lisa was born and raised in Fresno and her favorite hang out spot is Audie's Olympic. (Negative into a positive about Tower District - a lot of people feel like tower has great potential, lively spot, put more effort into the passion, etc.) Her shop isn't online yet, but you can check out her Facebook page and her shop on Van Ness Street and Floradora Street. "People should be more creative and not follow the pack. It's good to mix in high end and low end garments." Additionally, being broke in Fresno translates to being resourceful in Fresno. Thrift shopping has enabled me to be even more imaginative with my wardrobe. There is a sense of purpose when you choose creation over dictation. Your sense of identity does not lie in your bank account, your car, your morning coffee, or your Fashion Fair shopping bags.
"made with such impeccable construction so that they would last throughout the decades."
Q: What made you want to design your own jewelry? Where did the interest begin? A: I've always been interested in art and design. I really began to start practicing jewelry design in high school. Since then, my style has evolved and that's something I'm proud of. My feelings about women's jewelry and accessories, however, have always remained consistent; women of all ages should feel beautiful, naturally. Q: What are some of your signature items? A: Well, the collection all started with authentic starfish hair clips. However, the most popular pieces recently are the MARIAH rainbow crystal necklace and SCILIA rainbow crystal ring. These pieces have such unique characteristics and have been featured in more than 20 websites. The LANI bracelets are also really popular and super versatile. They're faux suede bracelets embellished with hand placed pyramid studs. They come in black, light blue, lime green, light pink and a couple of other colors. Super cute. Q: Some items in your shop are high-end, but you also have street-style pricing. Can you talk more about who you have in mind to wear these pieces? A: Most of my clients consist of women in their 20s and 30s. I think the LANI bracelets and SCILIA rainbow crystal rings are more geared towards a younger audience, while the MARIAH rainbow crystal necklace is for a more mature taste. I think it’s important to keep the collection cohesive, on various different price points. It’s important to me that the collection is accessible to all types of women. Q: How did you discover Etsy and is it difficult to get an Etsy shop up and running? A: I actually don't even remember how I found Etsy! But I've been running my shop for about a year now. I've definitely learned that having an online shop takes a lot of work. While not having the same stresses as a brick and mortar shop, an online business takes loads of elbow grease. Some things that you have to pay special attention to are: time management, organization, creativity, marketing, etc. Q: Can you tell me about some of your inspirations? A: I love unique items that are found in nature, or nature inspired. I especially love untreated crystals or gems. Q : How would you describe your personal style? A: I'd describe my personal style as minimalist with a little bit of California beach bum. Sometimes I like
to wear a punch of color like a bright top or purse. Q: Who are some of your favorite jewelry designers? A: I really love what some of the fine jewelers of Etsy are doing! My husband bought my wedding ring from Bloom Studios on Etsy. She's amazing. But believe it or not I don't wear that much jewelry! Q: What do your shoppers have to look forward to? Are you working on anything up and coming? A: Oh I've always got something new going on. I'm constantly keeping my eye out for unique stones and nature inspired accents. It’s important to me to keep my clients on their toes. The newest addition to the collection is the ASTER crystal rings. They're in the $20-$30 price range and have an edgy flair to them. Find items from Briana’s jewelry collection at: http://www.etsy.com/shop/brianarose -Brandi M. Spaethe
TRASH Envision several rooms with tall white ceilings full of beautiful people all coming together for a common cause - the peaked interest of the art and fashion scene. The emerging presence of the Fresno Art Museum is huge to say the least. The museum, the only modern art museum between Los Angeles and San Francisco is making a comeback from encountering a serious financial crisis. The Trashique Fashion Show came together as an event to behold. Refined women in their 50s in leopard fur coats, polished black bodycon dresses, and more Louboutins than I've ever seen in this town. Every single person walking around is dressed immaculately, no flaw in sight. Glamorous and bewitching, the event had two distinct vibes. Outside, there's a light glow and people on ladders painting renditions of their dreams on a hung canvas. The best drummers in the Central Valley are beating on garbage cans and other recycled materials to make the most agreeable sound. Interpretative dancers in red fringe halter dresses and black mary jane heels are in synchronistic flow with the sound notes of the evening; their bodies contort and twirl. There is a smile on everyone's face. Upon entering the museum, one is surrounded by all different genres of paintings and photographs. Passing the coat check and the hallway of windows, one enters what feels like a grand ballroom. Sweeping magic pushes you into the what feels like the center of the world. The mood lighting is on point and there are hors d'oeuvres everywhere to be seen. People are mingling, laughing, sipping on Cabernet Sauvignon and I contemplate, this is what life is supposed to be made of. A space room in the corner with lush white leather couches fills every black void with penetrating neon green lights. I look around and see the illusion of glitter falling everywhere. for the fashion show to start, I winded through the art in the museum which included a display titled "cruciFiction." It was literally grounded to the earth with giant stakes puncturing books with titles like: History of Art, Western Civilization, The Education of Princess, Fruit of the Family, Almanac. These stakes were making a point about the death of certain topics, and the rebirth of the things that have replaced these cornerstones of humanity. The second room was filled with an accumulation of 250,000 gold keys, which represented stories of the strangers who possess them. The last room occupied Jacobi's "apoclyptic" work which my eyes were glued to. Strong themes of our reproductive society were spoken aloud in these works of art. Upon entering the auditorium, it is full of models briskly dashing to all parts of the room. Chaos and perfectly painted faces. An entire salon set-up fills the stage in the back auditorium; the smell of hairspray fills the air. I run into artist Sean Choquette. He used plastic as his primary medium for his Georgia O'Keefe inspired dress. When I inquired about his involvement with the event, he said, "I thought it would be an interesting
IQUE
By: Rebecca Renberg
when I heard about the event. I am trying to establish myself as an artist so this is a great opportunity." Choquette is among many others who have verifiable talent. Getting a peek preview at what's to come made my heart rate speed up. Walking out to the tents, I'm on the red carpet admiring the woman in the tan trench coat and mustard yellow beret accompanied by wine red lips. The fashion show tents are lit up in a royal purple. Music fills my ears and there are rows and rows of black chairs. The runway feels straight out of New York Fashion Week. The words "Trashique" and a chain link fence adorn the back wall. The night is aglow with feeling. The feeling you get deep in your soul when you feel like something extraordinary is about to happen. Trashique was the brain child of Roseanne Guaglianone, a former fashion show producer. She discerned a way to bring life into the city, "When I was traveling in New Mexico, there was a bar in Santa Fe with an ad promoting a Trashique show. Some drag queens were wearing coat hangers and other recycled products. I was so impressed with the name and the concept that I decided to bring it to Fresno, because this town is in need of artistic diversity. There was an overwhelming amount of support for the idea at the Fresno Art Museum." The anticipation is heightened as the waiting music quiets down, the lights dim, and the show commences. Consisted of eleven individually themed catwalks, the general theme/guidelines was that the looks had to be recycled. They would convey the soul of the artist through the filter of the designer's eyes. The mouth watering line-up included: Gaugin, Pablo Picasso, Carl Haag, Georgia O'Keeffe, Peter Max/Andy Warhol, Brancusi, Frida Kahlo, Man Ray, Jackson Pollock, Isamu Noguchi, and Recycled Couture. The hair and makeup team effectively evoked an emotional connection to the overall looks, Preen Salon nailed it. One could tell that elaborate planning with attention to detail was infused into the heart of this event, and the payoff was clear and lucid. Gaugin offered an island, tribal feel with vivid colors. The belle of the show was a pristine mermaid in rainbow colors holding her fishtail. Another highlight was the dress made purely out of Capri Sun packets. Picasso was by far my favorite, as it served up a grunge, street wear feel with touches of abstract complementary colors. Clashing capes, American Spirit cigarette box garments, and a Target bag shirt was presented. Textiles included: sand paper, bottle caps, sheet music, billboard vinyl, rope, tablecloth, discarded felt samples, wire, and potato sacks. The designers were truly innovative to the point of serious intrigue - one would love to see more. Haag reflected a more sensual side of women fused with Orientalism themes. The Indian gypsy influence was prevalent. Harem pants, bare feet, and seductive jewels got my attention.
November 16th
Georgia O'Keeffe definitely touched on the energy I was carrying with flowing desert themes. Back to nature, one of the models had the skull and horns of an animal attached to the side of her head. It was the most beautiful thing I've ever seen. Loud colored hair and extensive make-up made these jungle goddesses the belles of the show. My jaw almost dropped when I saw branches attached to their graceful arms. I was further intrigued when I saw Peter Max/Andy Warhol's pop, 60s psychedelic show. It was playful and dancey, complete with a cape made out of bubble wrap and a cone head piece with pom poms overflowing out the top. A Campbell's Soup dress, a box of Brillo, and 60s bouffants, I felt like I had been transported back in time. Brancusi's African theme took it to an intense get-up with body language doing all the talking. Two native men in perfectly crafted outfits, with shields and spears wide-eyed stomping down the runway. The familiar rhythm of Spanish music saturates the atmosphere when I see the gorgeous construction of clothes in Frida Kahlo's show. Staples include colors reflective of the Mexican heritage, as well as bold make-up, and pinata confetti. I recall Man Ray's show very specifically due to the calming piano jazz and choregraphed dance. A wedding-esque dress comes down the runway complete with ruffles formulated out of trash bags and embellished with chain. The sexy burlesque black and white photography feel caught my eye. Materials used include bicycle tire tubes, foil, 35 mm film, wire mesh, tin can lids, and assorted metal objects. Jackson Pollock was truly moving. Paint splattered all over the model's faces and a woman in black covered in thousands of colored zip ties. Vests and shorts were made out of men's neckties. The highlight was the muted rainbow mosaic dress. Noguchi offered a quiet, dramatic, exquisite darkness. The Japanese minimalist organic theme included heavily doused grey shades, a cupcake tin dress, and chopsticks weaving through jet black hair. The music could have easily been plucked out of the film The Holy Mountain. The Recycled Couture collection was stunning to say the least, the incomparable looks were saved for last. An exotic feel with beautifully detailed backs, accentuated shoulders, and shards of denim worked into long grey strands of hair. The Coca Cola corset dress and a dyed
newspaper dress with the attached head piece took my breath away. Following the show, there was a buzz of exclamation and energy flowing through the crowds. "I'm surprised at how much talent came out of Fresno. It was brilliant," stated Cho Yang. Renaee Deck revealed, "Amazing. It feels like Fresno has finally moved forward." I approached a women clad in black leather, "Fresno is comin' up. Usually you have to go to LA or San Francisco. A lot of people got out of their box tonight. People put on their avant-garde." Kim Sheehan, an art student at Fresno State divulged, "I was in awe of the colors. We never realized how much art was involved in fashion." Can Fresno put on additional events that inspire like this one? Are we inclined to move past our closed mindedness? Are we conscious of the fact that our daily mundane routines will never be enough to expand our ever transforming world? The buzz in the crowds indicate that with the effort and passion of many, Fresno can move forward. Linda Cano stated, "The cultural arts are a strong resource for building community pride and improving the quality of life. Numerous studies have documented that arts and culture play an increasingly important role in a region's economic growth." Linda said it best, in order for Fresno to grow we must come together and thrive in our diverse community. I spoke to a local business owner, Anthony Armour, who said, "We have a real opportunity here to create our reality in Fresno. We should all take on projects and dreams that we wish to manifest. We have a clean slate."
Fashion is a multi-billion dollar industry that affects people all over the world, though on average I bet most folks still think of fashion as a female dominated world. Well ladies, truth be told us men are just as interested in looking good; men tend to just set priorities slightly different. First and foremost, we wear clothes for our health and protection from the elements- when those basic needs are met, most of us just want to feel confident about ourselves by looking good and just being comfortable. Another thing that has been stereotyped as a purely female habit is the experience of shopping for clothes. While there is a lot of truth to the stereotype, however, that doesn’t mean that heterosexual men do not also have an eye for what looks well and a desire to look our best. Unfortunately, for many Americans (especially men) there is a realistic problem when it comes to options for outfits—the lack of diversity and availability of proper sizes. Today in America two out of every three, or about 190 million, citizens are overweight, and this number is continuing to rise. Yet, in the fashion world, for all the Project Runways and Calvin Klein specials, you wouldn’t know that America is suffering a ‘look’ crisis due to our excessive weights and limited options from fashion stores. Sure, if you’re looking for a solid color t-shirt or a pair of regular jeans, that can be found through special orders from many accessible stores; but as far as creating a sense of personal style, big people don’t have a lot of options. “Retailers need to get on board and not just make clothes for the overweight market, but nice clothes. By that I don’t just mean formal, although that’s part of it, but clothes that make people look nice,” says Jerusha Welborn, an avid shopper, wife and soon to be mother. I agree with Mrs. Welborn, because if
you’re a big guy or a big girl it’s slim pickings (pardon the pun) out there when it comes to clothes. So I figured, why not go down to Casual Male XL, one of the few stores in Fresno that offers clothes for big men and find out what’s going on in the fashion world for big guys these days. First off, let’s get some basic facts in order regarding Casual Male XL. The store is located on the corner of Blackstone and Shaw avenues, and is divided into six departments: contemporary, traditional, active, young men’s, dress world, and accessories. Contemporary are clothes that you would wear for a night out on the town. The look makes use of vests, bowling t-shirts- the basic Charlie Sheen look from Two and Half Men, according to Maria Delgado, the store manger. Traditional is the basic core of the store. This look includes pocket t-shirts, plaid patterns, oak hill pants… think the classic country club look or commercials designed to promote family values. Young men’s, on the other hand, is “a more up-to-date look” according to Delgado, though the department name is a bit misleading as clothes in this department are for anyone from the age of twelve up to fifty (not that I’m suggesting that fifty is old, for the record I always say that you don’t get to call yourself old until you turn eighty-five). This is where you’ll find screen t-shirts, various jean styles, and everything that is the “casual” look without being considered preppy. Active is anything and everything relating to sports … think Reebok, basketball, jogging and feeling loose. Dress world is where you’ll find your suits, your ties, your dress shirts, everything you need for a job interview or to feel like a lawyer from the TV series, Boston Legal. Lastly, accessories; this is everything else
you might need—underwear, socks, cologne, belts, the works. Casual Male XL is truly a one stop shopping option for big men to put a good looking wardrobe together, which means I’m in the right place to get some answers about fashion for all the big men out there. Delgado, you’ve revealed an organization to your store that as a shopper I was previously not aware of, but what makes your store unique and therefore capable of giving a big man, a look, instead of just clothes? “We offer more sizes, everything from large tall to twelve extra large, and our clothes are cut fuller and longer than regular retail stores, and we’re up to date”. Cut fuller, longer, more sizes you say? Alright, that’s good, and speaking from my own experience with the store, five years ago I could go into Casual Male XL and it would be rare to find a five extra-large tall in store, now according to John Mucciacciaro, the store’s Key Holder, it’s a common size. “Seven extra-large is a normal size shirt we carry in store now, and [they] still need to send us [bigger] sizes. We have guys that come in here wearing nine extra-large, twelve extra-large, size shirts.” So are larger sizes the number one request customers make? No! According to both Mucciacciaro and Delgado, the number one request by their customers is skinny jeans - as in the skin tight jeans worn by people often referred to as ‘Emos’ and ‘Skaters’. “A lot of customers come in asking for the skinny jeans look but in their sizes,” adds Delgado. Some disbelief on my part and a good round of friendly laughter was exchanged at this point. Eventually I managed to stumble my way back around to Delgado’s comment about the clothes in the store being “up to date.” Could it be that fashion for big men is changing, and now offering more options for their wardrobes? Excellent! So tell me, what’s the trend for big men these days? What’s in? According to Delgado and Mucciacciaro, the contemporary look is in right now. “One thing that is cool about the store,” according to Mucciacciaro, “is that you can come in and get ‘night club’ attire. [If] you’re going out to [a] club you can come [to our store] and get a nice pair of jeans and button down shirt; or if you’re going out to Disneyland you can come in and get cargo shorts and a screen t-shirt. Our store offers variety; I don’t think a lot of places have that.” Alright, sweet, variety is good, anything to
get beyond the solid color t-shirt and same boring dark blue jeans. So where do the ideas for the designs come from, and why haven’t they been offered before? “Customers follow celebrities, they see how the celebrities look and that’s what they come to the store to look for,” says Delgado. Ah, ha! Hollywood is setting the trend for Americans, small and large! To clarify a little further, the ideas behind the clothes offered in Casual Male XL come from designers, who are trying to impress celebrities and get them to wear their products so that they can earn profits. “We get an idea from what the designers are doing and put it into our own brands to save our customers money,” Delgado explains helpfully. Saving money for their customers is a noble act, but following the designers made me ponder a little. When I look at female fashion magazines (which I admit is not very often, so forgive my layman’s point of view) I see that designers are creating clothes that favor sparkle and attention grabbing cuts; they seem to be saying “here I am, look at me, I’m beautiful.” Well if that’s true, then is there something that men are trying to say with our clothes? “I think they are trying to portray more of how they feel, to feel confidence in themselves. The clothes may not be flashy and gold or metallic with bedazzles all over it, but as long as they feel confidence in themselves and makes them say ‘damn I look good,’” says Mucciacciaro. I wholeheartedly agree. When shopping for clothes Mr. Mucciacciaro, a big man himself, says that he looks first and foremost for comfort. “That’s the number one thing. I try it on; see if it goes places it’s not supposed to go, I mean I’m just being straight up. Price and style are also factors, but if it makes me uncomfortable I won’t buy it.” So, to close this discussion, where is big men’s fashion going in the next five years? Is it an untapped market or one that’s getting better? Personally I think the market still needs to expand and offer more selection. While Casual Male XL is a great store, they only offer a few hundred potential outfits / looks for their customers, and when you consider the diversity of male personas the options are still feeling a bit limited to me. But hope is on the horizon, because a new store with much more selection is just around the corner. It’s called Destination XL, and it “will be the largest men’s apparel XL store, setting a trend in the future of retail,” according to David Levin,
President and CEO of Casual Male Retail Group, which includes Rochester Big & Tall, Living XL, Shoes XL, Big & Tall Men’s Clothing, and of course Casual Male XL. Where Rochester, Big & Tall, and Casual Male offer hundreds of style choices, “these new stores will carry up to 2,000 style choices, almost four times the amount of style found at Casual Male XL store today. As new Destination XL stores open, we’ll bring new designer names in XL sizes that have never been introduced into those markets, offering more choices to the Big and Tall consumer,” explains Mr. Levin. So far there are only four locations for Destination XL, and the website for the store will launch its online ordering feature early next year, but for now the nearest to Fresno is in Las Vegas, Nevada, located at 4211 Paradise Rd. So where does all this information leave us? Two thirds of Americans are overweight, it’s a problem that we need to address, and believe it or not fashion can help us make a change for the better. You want people to feel good about themselves and stop leaning on junk food and excessive eating to feel happy? Give them clothes that inspire confidence and character in them, something that they can value and want to wear so they feel good and aren’t stared at. Sure, gym clothes help but there not something big men want to wear all the time, every day of the year. And truth be told, the harsh stare of a total stranger you’ve never met before can be more damning to a big man than having to special order a pair of pants or a shirt from a catalog. If those fashion designers can go on and on about wanting to put feeling into their fabrics and clothing lines, then how about putting some consideration into making nice clothes for the other 190 million Americans that don’t fit into regular extra-large? Heck, if you won’t do it out of compassion, how about good old capitalistic gain? 190 million customers are waiting to wear something other than a solid color. Mr. Levin and Casual Male Retail Group are addressing this untapped market, and many big men will be hitting up Las Vegas over the next few years for more than just a weekend of revelry. Big fashion can build big confidence in men and women, and that’s something that everyone always needs. |
The Canvas Bag Tutorial By: Brandie Spathie
NOBODIES AND NACHOS By: Allison Kosch Day after day, Seth watches a steady flow of people wander in and out of Satura Records. Seth has lived on music for the better part of his life. Listening to the good, the bad, and the ugly, the local and the foreign, the mainstream and the obscure, has molded a certain musical discernment for him over the 20 years that he takes a quiet pride in. But going out of his way to dress the part of the music lover has taken the backseat to the love itself. Today he tidies the stacks in faded chucks, the design on his Herman Brood tee nearly obscured by the flannel under his denim jacket. Relaxed jeans hang flat over where a butt would probably go if he wasn’t white and scrawny. His hair is nearly black and scruff of the same color scratches at his jaw. His eyes, gray and unassuming, survey the costumers as he tilts waves of rifled-through cd’s back into place. He is one of the less ostentatious of Satura’s employees, falling just short of affixing himself to any one scene in his dress. This vagueness affords Seth the opportunity to watch costumers in a less flighty and more natural state of browsing than if say, Sam was appraising them from under her impressive mohawk, eyes narrowing under the weight of her eyeliner. Browse, shuffle, leave. Browse, shuffle, leave. Browse, buy ironic t-shirt, leave. Look for bathroom, leave. Browse, buy t-shirt that’s only ironic because you’d probably have trouble naming even one album
that band recorded, (please) leave. Girlpants n’ Gauges will take anything as long as he can’t read the band’s name on the cd and the screamed lyrics are just as indiscernible. High Tops and Sag-Induced Hip Dysplasia is looking for I Am Not a Human Being. Seth wants the scene kid to hear Pianos Become the Teeth. He wants to rip the hype out of High Tops’ hand and let Sam Adams and Childish Gambino have a talk with him. But he lacks the will to even give people attitude, let alone sincere suggestions; by now he’s learned that when people ask for recommendations, it’s easier to just give them what they both already know that they want. Nobody buys cd’s anymore. To Seth, the people who actually still buy them always seem to be just that- no one in particular. In a society that touts individuality, the uniqueness of you and all your closest carbon copies, seeing people walk in that Seth can’t tell apart without making a focused effort raises some questions. “Why the hell?” mostly. Luckily for him, with only a few nobodies coming in each day and actually buying anything, the register lays idle and he has time to ponder these most imperative of questions. He wonders if maybe these people are just putting signs up. A lot of them would probably really like to tell people, “Hey! I listen to ____! I really love ____!” Depending on the person this could be a mating call, invitation,
threat, or cry for help. In any case, it would constitute an egregious breach of apathy, a virtue spanning many music genres, uniting diverse listening-factions under the fierce and resounding battle cry of “eh.” To see such a person on the street, you could probably determine their favorite genre without them saying a word to you, which is good, because depending on what signs you’re putting up, they might not want to talk to you anyway. He sees music inspire a dogmatism in groups of people that spills over into things that only vaguely relate to the music itself. Coming to a show dressed very differently from everyone there is kind of like wearing a Klan robe to a costume party: sure you can, but why the hell would you want to? There’s no sign at the door with fashion decorum for the evening, and if you asked anyone they’d say they didn’t care; but see if they don’t amuse themselves between sets by picking apart everything wrong with your outfit. A sure sign of a nobody is that they seem to really hope the employees are watching. While they may very well be staring, 99% of the time they’re zoning and wishing it was lunch already. But by God they didn’t dress up and come in this record store to remain unseen. Ostentatious perusing ensues, questions are asked about obscure albums yet only seeing release in someone’s basement in Illinois, boundlessly insightful and entirely unasked-for music criticism is shared, and Seth gives earnest and meticulous consideration to whether he’ll go to Taco Bell on his lunch break. The first nobody of the afternoon clomps his way in with black D. Martens as Seth is replacing rejected discs. Doc’s Master of Puppets tee is standard issue, and he sports compulsory appreciation of the “old” bands over a beer belly. His hair is long because he’d look silly headbanging if it was short but mostly because society can’t control him. It’s greasy because society can’t make him shower either. If flowing locks have made him look girlish he’s grown out his facial hair and wades in ripped jeans complete with wallet chain. He’s wearing a black studded wristband because dead cow is intimidating and there isn’t enough of it in his shoes. No amount of Sam’s judgmental glares will concern him; he’s too busy being intimidating himself. Seth hears their inner monologues branding each other at first sightSam: Chauvinist. Doc: Dyke. Doc presses out his lower lip and bobs his head like a drunken rooster in general approval of the metal section before looking around to make sure someone saw was watching him do it. That’s when
Seth sees it: the question. He watches it form in Doc’s head, slowly torquing his features and rolling his eyes around in search of an employee. Only he and Sam are on the floor at the moment, and he can almost hear her deep growl as Doc considers bringing the question her way. In a moment of horror Seth notices he’s the only one left to ask and drops into a crouch behind a display rack. A few seconds pass, he peeks up over the shelf, and sees Doc weaving through the stacks. No! No! The door’s that way! Doc strides closer. Oh God he saw me, shitshitshit. Seth stands up and, in a last desperate bid to avoid the bouquet of beer and Funyuns undoubtedly heavy on Doc’s breath, tries his best Sam glare. He soon realizes he only looks indigested and surrenders a weak, “Hey, need help with somethin?” “Thought you did for a second, man. Looked kinda constipated there HAHAHA.” “Heh, yeah I’m doin ok actually I was just about to---” “Yeah great. Hey, so I met this chick at a party my buddy dragged me to. Kinda dresses like a freak but… hey, we’re both dude’s here, right?” Doc slaps Seth’s arm and lowers his voice. “Total piece of ass. I mean-” He bites his lip and mimes rolling two melons against his chest. “She’s really into her music or whatever though, Neutral Milk Hostel or some shit, so I kinda lied and told her I don’t listen to just metal and I know all these bands she’d like. Totally bought it but she wants me to make her a fuckin mix cd now and I am lost as fuck.” Seth has dealt with a lot of asinine requests for mix tape ideas over the past months. He has tried his best to be helpful and a few costumers have even returned to thank him for good results. But on this day, the record on his mental turntable screeches quietly to a stop and promptly bursts into flames. On this day, something breaks. Seth smiles a pleasant smile. “What kind of music she listen to?” “I just said I don’t know man, a lot of weirdass shit. I was too buzzed to really pay attention, but stuff she’s already heard won’t get me laid, you know?” “Ok, ok. Uh, what did you say she dresses like?” “Idunno man, like it’s really cold? Fur hat, flannel, tight pants. Lots of jewelry and shit but nothing matches? Wears these big ass glasses a lot but I don’t think she has trouble seeing…” Doc shakes his head in deep contemplation of this conundrum. “Wow. Okay I gotcha, man. I’ll meet you at the register.” Seth is gone before Doc can let out a
relieved “Sweet.” He whips through the stacks with an enthusiasm he thought he’d lost to the scene kids long ago. He plucks up some of the most obscure and awful records Satura stocks, case studies in grating noise and stale lyricism, a taste for irony making him throw in good albums he knows she’ll hate anyway. Ever helpful, he marks some tracks he’s told Doc to include, The Magnetic Field’s “A Pretty Girl is Like…” and a few jewels from Divorce Lawyers I Shaved My Head and Music to Make Love to Your Old Lady By in the mix. He hands Doc his bag with the smile still plastered over his face. “If this doesn’t get you some ass I don’t know what will.” If this doesn’t make her drop you like a sack of crap I don’t know what will. “Hey thanks, man.” He slaps Seth one last time and plods to the door victorious. Another nobody wanders in the next day when Seth is sitting behind the counter with just his bottle of water, getting hungry enough that Sam’s meatless abomination of a vegan sandwich is starting to look good. Specs is probably the 27th hipster to come in today, but this one is different. She is breathtaking in her subversive fedora, the thick rims of her lens-less glasses adding even more emphasis to her pale blue-green eyes (in case half a bottle of expensive liner hasn’t done so already). Her blonde head is planted in a mound of scarves, and her tight leggings have given up the fight to be discreet about her rounded, perky butt, retreating exhausted into a blinding camel-toe in front. Her flawless skin is spattered with exquisitely ironic and obscure tattoos. Seth had always wished Pee-wee’s Playhouse had homeless people, and here is the answer to his prayers, clicking her way towards the fossilized vinyl in black Oxfords. Sam is trying to do horrific things to Specs with her eyes as she tears hunks from the sandwich with her teeth. Specs gathers a surprisingly eclectic hodgepodge of old 12”s, and Seth finds her choices discerning yet unpretentious. He wonders for a brief moment if he has discovered a hipster with good music taste, considers how many unicorns he saw on the freeway this morning, and realizes he’s being ridiculous. “Stocking up?” Seth is just emaciated, scruffy, and workingat-a-record-store enough for Specs to find him attractive. She emits a high pitched giggle that makes Sam choke on her bean sprouts. “Yeaahhh. I’m actually making a collage in my room. This girl who follows my blog has one. Cut up all these album covers and old books. ‘Cause, like we
decorate our Facebook walls and our Tumblr’s but never like our lives…” Seth is now too busy holding back tears to focus on anything Specs is saying. He takes the albums, sets them behind the counter, and does not ring them up. “… really deep metaphor, ya know?” From behind empty frames she squints out the significance of what she has just said and Seth nods, clearly fascinated. Looking at him she suddenly recalls her most recent ex mentioning “some skinny fag working at Satura” during their final squabble last night. “Did you help someone make a mix cd yesterday?” “Yeah, uh, long hair?” “Yeaahhh. That was for me actually, haha.” “You don’t say.” “Yeah. I dumped him. He just wanted to get in my pants. Can you believe that?” Specs pouts a little and leans over the counter. “I wanted to tell you, though. I loved that cd. I think you have excellent taste in music.” In this moment, their gazes lock and Seth might be lost in the soft aqua of her eyes if enough cleavage wasn’t hanging out to adequately distract him. He leans close to her, heart racing, lips parting ever so slightly, and dumps his bottle over her head. He holds it inverted above her and watches the water tamp down her carefully fluffed hair. It rakes streaks through her heavy eyeliner that drip and stain her vintage cardigan and it spatters the Urban Outfitters shoes for which she had put down many times Seth’s paycheck. Her wide-eyed hyperventilation turns to a series of distressed wails, a sound Seth finds pleasant enough he almost doesn’t flip his iPod to Shad’s “Out of Love” before he drops the empty bottle at her feet, hops the counter, and leaves her standing frozen in her aghast puddle.
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