100 Years Of Fashion by khoanguyen.hcm1192

100 YEARS OF FASHION

Contents Introduction 1900s: S-Bend Corset 1910s: Hobble Skirt 1920s: Flapper 1930s: Bias-cut Gown 1940s: “Bikini” 1950s: “New Look” This book was created within the Studio 5 Course “PRINT IS NOT DEAD - Publication Design 3.0” Ran by Steffi W. Neukirchen at RMIT University Vietnam.

1960s: Miniskirt 1970s: Platform Heels

Idea, concept & design: Nguyen Phuc Dang Khoa Copywriter: Nguyen Phuc Dang Khoa Illustration: Nguyen Phuc Dang Khoa Print: Chinh Duc house Typography: Avenir & Riot Squad NF

1980s: Leggings

References

First Printing, 2018

1990s: Minimalism 2000s: Tracksuit 2010s: Athleisure

100 Years Of Fa shion It is amazing to see how the different events in history have influenced and changed the way people have dressed throughout time. Some of the most popular fashions are classic, they can stand the test of time and hardly ever “go out of style”. When you think about it, in the course of human history, 100 years isn’t a particularly long time. But in the course of fashion history, it’s the difference between trying to get around in a long gown and miniskirt that you might be wearing at this very moment. In the intervening years, there have been major shifts in technology, politics, culture, and social norms—and fashion has reflected that in its ever-changing cycle of trends. Take a look back at the most influential trends from the 1900s through today.

1900s: S-Bend Corset S-bend corsets, straight-front corsets or “health” corsets were invented in the early 1900’s during the Edwardian era. Most women in Europe have used corset to change the apperance of their bodies. It became popular in sixteenth-century Europe while the corset has typically been worn as an undergarment, it has occasionally been used as an outer-garment, corsets as the outer-garments can be seen in the national dress of many European countries. The ideal figure in the early 20th century was more statuesque than its Victorian predecessors. Rather than focusing on the waist, more attention was paid to the other parts of the body smooth long hips and a swelling chest. Corsets were cut so long that they reached well over the thighs. They also tended to be shaped very low around the bust line so women would need more support on top—if at least to preserve decency with the low-cut dresses of time.

The straight-front corset, also known as the swan-bill corset, the S-bend corset or the health corset, it was worn from circa 1900 to the early 1910s. Its name is derived from the very rigid, straight busk inserted in the center front of the corset. This kind corset forced the torso forward and made hips jut out in back. The corset was popularized by Inès Gaches-Sarraute, it is a corsetiere with a degree in medicine. It was intended to be less injurious to wearers’ health than other corsets in that it exerted less pressure on the stomach area. However, any benefits to the stomach were more than counterbalanced by injury caused to the back due to the unnatural posture that it forced upon its wearer. At this time, the bust lowered and corsets provided much less support for the breasts.

From 1908 to 1910, the fashionable narrow-hipped and the narrow-skirted silhouette necessitated the lengthening of the corset at its lower edge. A new type of corset covered the thighs and changed the position of the hip, making the waist appear higher and wider. The new of fashion was considered uncomfortable, cumbersome, and furthermore required the use of strips of elastic fabric. The development of rubberized elastic materials in 1910 helped the girdle replace the corset.

By 1908 corsets began to fall from favor as the silhouette changed to a higher waistline and more naturalistic form. Early forms of brassieres were introduced and the girdle soon took the place of the corset which was more concerned with the reducing the hips rather than the waist.

1907 corset reinterpreted in the black leather, with absinthe green leather trim and wide leather ruffle garters.

1907 Inspired Ecru lace printed leather, with hand punched kid leather lace, kid leather bows, kid leather ruffled garters.

Black Leather 1907 with Pink Stitching, Pink Leather “Lace”, Garters, and Bow. For client with an amazing 17” waist. 9

1910s: Hobble Skirt In 1910, the hobble skirt was all the rage. To eyes used to view women’s bodies enveloped in yards of fabric, these skirts were a shocking reminder that women had ankles, legs, derrières. While rumors surround the moment when women’s skirts went from heavy and billowing to light and tight—even the Wright Brothers claimed they came up with the fashion when they tied a string around an early passenger’s flapping skirt—nobody knows for sure who invented this trend. The skirt’s popularity can be traced to Paul Poiret’s 1908 designs for select French clients, which featured dresses designed to be worn without petticoats or corsets. What hobble skirts’ wearers gained in good looks, they were sacrificed in mobility. As mass-produced copies of Poiret’s new narrow, leg-emphasizing skirts hit American streets, women no longer strode or glided. Instead, they took tiny, mincing steps, wiggling their way into a full-blown fashion scandal. Though most women still wore corsets, they were more than glad to trade in their heavy petticoats (which could weigh up to 30

pounds) for this fresh new look. But the petticoat wouldn’t go down without a fight. Public figures derided the new fashion and cartoonists lampooned the struggles of women to cross streets and climb into taxis. The New York Times played the guilt card with a huge spread on the economic impact of a world without petticoats—a decline in the textile industry, a rise in the cost of living, and lower wages resulting in depression. By throwing away a garment long associated with chastity, warmth, and cleanliness, women were making the ultimate fashion statement. Armed with more leisure, more freedom, better educations, and better prospects than ever before, women were ready to do—and wear—what they pleased. They were also, unwittingly, giving ammunition to those who would argue against the growing calls for women’s rights. A New York Times contributor mocked the fashion outright: “If women want to run for Governor, they ought to be able to run for a car....If they want to be legally free they shouldn’t be sartorially shackled.”

1910 Hobble Skirt, a long skirt with the narrowed hem at the bottom.

1911 Hobble Skirt in four parts (jacket, collar, skirt and belt)

1911 vening dress by Paul Poiret

Classic hobble skirt in Paris, France 1914 13

1920s: Flappers If you’re like most people, flappers, gangsters and jazz are the first things that come to mind when think about the 1920s. Women’s fashions of the 1920s are a large part of the Jazz Age identity. New technology and the end of the horrors brought about by World War I and the 1918 Flu Pandemic gave rise to a youthful exuberance personified by the Flapper. Flapper dress used the new attitudes and standards of the modern woman to carve out it’s own niche in the fashion.

The short haircut was called the “bob” which was later replaced by an even shorter haircut, the “shingle” or “Eton” cut. The shingle cut was slicked down and had a curl on each side of the face that covered the woman’s ears. Flappers often finished the ensemble with a felt, bell-shaped hat called a cloche. Flappers also started wearing make-up, something that had previously been only worn by loose women. Rouge, powder, eye-liner, and lipstick became extremely popular.

The flapper revolution started in the early twenties when the dresses were still long. The short, slinky, flapper look was in full style by 1925. Dresses were loose fitting slip-overs without sleeves, although many had flutter sleeves or draping over the shoulders to give some coverage. The waists of clothes were dropped to the hipline. Women wore with stockings—made of rayon (artificial silk) starting in 1923—which the flapper often wore rolled over a garter belt.

and square edge ovals. The long length drew attention to a womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face & ears. The iconic necklace of the 1920s is the long pearl necklace. Women wore it as one strand, mutiple strands of various lengths and even cascaded down the back instead of the front. The flapper costume need a headband. Headbands that wrap around the head, forehead bands that wrap around the forehead, ornate hair combs, tiara crowns and tight fitting skull caps were all the beautiful hair accessories. They could be a simple ribbon or much fancier crystal and rhinestone band or comb. Earrings were long dangling drop styles with gems such as green, black, red and crystal clear. The gem shapes were in geometric square, rectangle, triangle 17

A large fluffy feather fan is both sexy and a portable air conditioner for hot nights. Stockings are also very important to wear with flapper. Women did not go out in bare leg, although their stockings made them look like they were. They next most important part of the dressing flapper is the shoes. The shoes have several color and sometimes had gold heels and crystals on the buckles. 18

1930s: Bias-cut Gowns 1930s clothing brings to mind bias cut evening gowns in liquid satins and silks, tweed suits, flounces and frills and topped off by a cute beret or tilt hat. 30s Fashion certainly seemed fussier than the 1920s with its relentless ornaments of trims and frills. It seems unfair that the 1930s is almost a forgotten decade —sandwiched between two very iconic and life changing eras that take up most of the attention. The 1920s saw a drastic change in women’s lives after World War 1 and was reflected through a period of excess and liberation. The 1940s was the opposite of this, where a period of austerity gripped nation and fashion was extremely restricted. In between the two, the 30s began with the Wall Street crash resulting in great depression and ended with World War 2, and is hence seen often in a more negative light. Socio-economic changes can be tracked through changes in fashion and style. In the 1920s, Women had more freedom than their mothers due to economic and social change and this was reflected in their simpler and more comfortable clothing.

No curves, higher hemlines, a flat silhouette and an emphasis on youth. The 1930s, represented something quite different. A more sophisticated, grown up and silhouette influenced by the rise of female designers Madame Vionnet, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. By the end of the 1920s, the waist had returned to its natural position and would stay there for the duration of the decade and the hemlines stayed quite low with day wear reaching low to the mid-calf. The emphasis on the natural waist was further highlighted by seams just below the bust and strong moulded shoulders in the form of puffed, butterfly or banjo sleeves. The detailed necklines with ruffles, cowl, collars, ties such as the pussy bow and corsages further emphasised the torso. Perhaps 1930s fashion is probably best known for its invention of the bias cut. This involved cutting the fabric at a 45 degree angle instead of along the straight grain and was introduced by Vionnet. This method allowed the fabric to hug the body by giving horizontal stretch and thus emphasises a woman’s

shape. The result was draped, sinuous and fluid evening dress that created the flirtatious and sensuous look which epitomises for many, the iconic 1930s silhouette. Combine the bias cut with the trend for backless and we are onto something quite daring and risqué, even by the today’s standards. For the back was new erogenous zone emphasised by plunging backlines and adorned with jewellery. But the bias cut extended into day dresses as well and brought exquisitely detailed and intricate pattern cutting techniques. This then developed into irregular hems, tiers, layering and panels often in waves of printed chiffon. Art deco styles were still popular during this decade and dress fabric of this era reflects this. Fabric prints are an iconic style feature of this time and came in cubism influenced geometric pattern, dots, lettering and even picture prints of the popular objects or animals. Eveningwear was often white, champagne or black.

Gorgeous vintage 1930s dress

Ivory bias cut satin with a lace collar

Attached belt at the waist with satin the covered buckle

Long sleeves with lace trim and covered buttons at the wrists

1940s: “Bikini” 1940s bathing suits, like many other clothing items, was losing its modesty. The ’40s was the era when the midriff was born, and it was shown in swimsuits as well as playsuits. 1940s swimsuits were tight, unlike the suits of previous eras. The bikini was officially invented in 1946 and named after the Bikini Atoll in the south Pacific where the U.S. performed nuclear tests. This suit was tiny, reveal the belly button and buttox. It was a string bikini. Most public beaches banned the use of this new tiny swiming suit till the ‘50s. However, this wasn’t the style of two piece that was usually worn in the ’40s. It was a little bit too revealing. The top was the full-coverage bra top, either with two thin straps or a halter top.

The bottom looked like a tight mini-skirt, starting from the waistline and cover the entire backside. Another popular style of skirt for the two-piece was a flared skirt bottom of the same length. A top that started to gain in popularity was even more revealing—a bandeau top with strings attached to the center front that tied at the neck. Simple patterns. Polka dots, which is tropical floral prints, stripes and some color blocking were all in style in the ’40s. Avoid any print that is “too busy.”

The strapless two piece was especially popular to those brave enough to wear them. By the 1950s nearly all swimsuits were strapless. More boning and lastix was needed to keep their shape and hold the girls in place. Needless to say vintage swimsuits of the ’40s and ’50s were hard to used for vigorous swimming. A lazy day at the beach or pool was best use.

1940s swimsuit patterns were minimalist. Any print that you think is “cute” such as cherries or little animals are more of a ’50s style. Tops in the bandeau style, halter top or modest bra top. Avoiding strapless or anything “too revealing.”

For a pin up worthy look be sure to add a pair of high heel wedges or peep toes, floppy hat, fabulous vintage sunglasses.

Ruching—Many modern swimsuits today have rediscovered the amazing slimming effects of ruching. Most swimsuits with ruching automatically have a ’40s flair to them and they look great on all types. 23

1950s: “New Look,” On February 12, 1947, Christian Dior presented his debut collection haute couture in Paris. Immediately dubbed as the “New Look,”.

women fashion. Instead, he presented an image of radical femininity, achieved by tight-fitting jackets with padded hips, petite waists, and A-line skirts.

Its most prominent features included rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and a full, A-line skirt. Its clearly articulated feminine silhouette, the “Bar” suit was the most recognized ensembles of the late 40s and early 50s.

Dior became the new star of the Parisian haute couture scene and the instantly transformed wardrobe of contemporary of woman. The “New Look,” the name by which style eventually went down in history, appealed strongly to nostalgic mood of the post-war society.

After the war period of utilitarian attires and vestiary austerity, perhaps nothing felt newer than Dior’s vision. Christian Dior first collection rejected modern course of dressing established in the 1920s and 30s, which intended to the liberate of women from the restrictive sculptural volumes of the 20th-century

The “New Look,” was a rediscovery of prosperity, and women, they acrossed the generations and social classes adopt their social happily.

Coat by Christian Dior 1953

Dior didn’t want to create everyday clothes for the pragmatic woman of the fast-moving century but rather sell a dream of the good old days, when a lot of women could afford to be extravagant and deliberately glamorous.

Cupola by Christian Dior 1953-1954 25

Spring and Summer

Chérie 1947

Fall and Winter

Christian Dior Collection

“Bar” 1947

Ensemble 1955 27

Claro 1957-1958

Pisanelle 1949-1959

La Cigale 1952-1953 28

Junon 1949-1950

Venus 1949-1950

Fall and Winter

Evening Dress 1957-1958

Evening Dress 1955-1956

ArsĂ¨ne Lupin 1954-1955

Eventail 1956-1957 29

1960s: Miniskirt The manager of an unnamed shop in London’s Oxford Street began experimenting in 1960 with skirt hemlines an inch above the knees of window mannequins, and noted how positively his customers responded. Hemlines were just above the knee in 1961, and gradually climbed upward over the next few years. By 1966, some of designs had the hem at the upper thigh. Stockings with the some suspenders were not considered practical with miniskirts and were replaced with coloured tights. Towards the end of the 1960s, an even shorter version, called the microskirt or the micro-mini, emerged. A miniskirt (sometimes hyphenated as mini-skirt or separated as mini skirt) is a skirt with a hemline well above the knees, in generally at mid-thigh level, normally no longer than 10 cm (4 in) below the buttocks and a dress with such a hemline is called a minidress or a miniskirt dress. A micro-miniskirt or microskirt is a miniskirt with its hemline at the upper thigh.

Short skirts have existed for a long time, though they were in generally not called “mini” or became a fashion trend until the 1960s. In the early 20th century, the dancer Josephine Baker’s banana skirt that she wore for her mid-1920s performances in the Folies Bergère was subsequently likened to a miniskirt. The extremely short skirts became a staple of 20th-century science fiction, particularly in 1940s pulp artwork such as that by the guy named Earle K. Bergey who depicted futuristic women in a “stereotyped combination” of metallic miniskirt, bra and boots. The popular acceptance of miniskirts peaked in the “Swinging London” of the 1960s, and has continued to be commonplace, particularly among younger women and teenage girls. Before that time, short skirts were only seen in sport and the dance clothing, such as skirts worn by female tennis players, figure skaters, cheerleaders, and dancers.

1970s: Platform Heels By the 1970s, the beginning of the disco era, men and women alike wore platform shoes and sandals. Nearly everyone on the dance floor wore them. Some were plain but many were extreme, not only in height but also in fashion. It was common to see platform shoes with flashing lights or a small aquarium in them. Major musical acts of the 1970s, like Elton John and KISS, wore platform shoes and boots. In fact, the more outlandish they looked the better. However, after disco

1970s Vintage Yellow Patent Leather Platform Shoes

died, it seemed so did platform shoes. Today, many women have at least one pair of platform shoes. The high-heeled platforms are all the rage. The sole of the shoe is often two to three inches with the heel reaching eight or nine. The shoes elongate the leg, which is why women adore them, which might be part of the reason this style keeps coming back into fashion. Silver platforms made by John Fluevog Shoes for Sacha, 1970s

Circa 1970s-1980s Luichiny Sparkling Glitter Platform Shoes 33

1980s: Leggings Leggings made from a nylon-lycra blend (usually 90% nylon, 10% lycra) have been worn during exercise. That nylon lycra leggings are often referred to as running tights, and are shinier in the appearance than those made from the cotton. Some have racing stripes or reflective patterns to further distinguish them as athletic wear and provide extra safety. However, the beginning of the 1980s exercise-style leggings have also been worn for fashion and as street wear.

Broadway show A Chorus Line. A more recent trend has been the wearing of black leggings with miniskirts. By the 1980s, it was very common to see leggings worn with long oversized t-shirts, oversized sweatshirts or the sweaters, slouch socks and Keds by girls from toddler age through tween, teen, college age and older. Moms even wore this leggings outfit right along with their daughters. Fashion turned against the leggings in the 1980s

Wearing black leggings under long, often diaphanous, skirts was part of a general fashion trend of wearing gym or dance clothes as street wear that evolved along with the fitness & under the influence of the movie Flashdance and long-running

1990s: Minimalism No prints. No colors (except for navy). No fun. Of course, that’s not the case for self-described minimalists, but to some women who like a little bit of oooh! in their outfits, minimalism can seem like a fancy word for “boring.” Not so fast: Minimalism has a Monet effect, in that it might look simple at first glance, but there’s a world of things to examine upon closer inspection. From clever cuts to lovely construction, minimal fashion doesn’t give it all away immediately, which—pro tip—makes minimal fashion people some of most low-key awesome people to strike up a conversation with.

that it was influenced by politics, society and the economy, or that maybe some designers & artists simply began running out of ideas and went back to basics, so to speak. While it is possible that many of these are contributing factors to trends in art and fashion, that in truth, about the minimalist, movement of the 1990s can be explained with a much more than the simple clarification.

Minimalism was a major trend in the 1990s, both in the art world and in the fashion. One might speculate that this was due to a pop culture phenomenon, Helmut Lang Spring 1998 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show

Balenciaga Spring 1998 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show

2000s: Tracksuit In the early 2000s, comfort was cool. Some celebrities went about their glossy lifestyle of international bottle service in velvet hoodies and fleece-lined Uggs, and one brand seemed to encapsulate that ethos perfectly.

Immortalizing this high point in American leisurewear, celebutantes and “It” girls starred in a number of reality TV shows that involved a lot of lounging, such as The Simple Life, Newlyweds & The Gastineau Girls, the Real Housewives franchise, Laguna Beach, and The Hills.

The rise of the Juicy tracksuit coincided with the emergence of a particular kind of tabloid coverage. The US went from monthly to weekly in 2000, The InTouch arrived in 2002, and Life & Style came out in 2004.

From the start, life (in sweats) imitated art. Longoria’s character on Desperate Housewives wore Juicy sweats, but so did real Eva Longoria at the store.

With the help of blogs like Perez Hilton (2001), the invention of YouTube (2005), and the birth of TMZ (2005), fans could easily see the rich and famous looking their absolute laziest.

Paris Hilton wore the cotton-candy look pretty much everywhere. They are the symbol of bitchy-cool-girl status, with Summer Roberts on The O.C. (2004), Mean Girls (2004), and every female in middle school (2001–2004) all sporting that tiny little J on their zippers.

Paris Hilton with Juicy Couture tracksuit

2010s: Athleisure The term “athleisure” has now been added to the dictionary and is defined as “casual clothing designed to be worn both for exercising and for general use.” Although this definition may technically be correct, it’s also a little dull. The true beauty of the athleisure is that it’s both practical and completely fashionable. The relaxed and cool style blends sportswear with ready-to-wear to create styles that are chic and comfortable. More than a simple trend, athleisure reflects a change in lifestyle, it goes hand-in-hand with an increased health consciousness, busy schedules, and relaxed standards of dress. As such, this effortlessly stylish apparel movement is here to stay, so it’s time to invest.

How to wear athleisure? The answer is layer sport pieces under regular fashion items, such as a sports bra under the leather jacket or leggings under a chic coat. Use sneakers and slides as your go to footwear. Make leggings more streetwear appropriate by pairing them with longer tops or tying a shirt around your waist. Wear it to work by replacing your blazer with a bomber jacket or by mixing a sporty T-shirt with tailored pieces. Pair a crop top with high-waisted pants for a stylish and easy athleisure look.

Gigi Hadid in Tommy Hilfiger look 43

Gigi Hadid in Tommy Hilfiger look

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