TREND FORECAST REPORT Autumn/Winter 2017
By Kiera Lambert 1
Intro
contents
Cartogram Print
The Solidarity Tag Abstract Camo Grafitti
Visual Merchendise Checmical Glow Outside Inside Just hanging in there
Menswear Other Usage Brights Tailored Sports
References 2
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Intro
“A trend referes to a general direction or movement.�Stone 2008
The inspiration for trends can come from anywhere; art movements, architecture, political disruption and even toilet signs have all played their part. This report looks at print, visual merchandise and menswear for Autumn/Winter 2017/18. It focuses on nine specific trends which are in evidence both on the catwalk and all around us.
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Trend Forecasting Trends run through a life plan process, something designers and fashion brands should be aware of when creating their collections. There is no point in spotting a trend when it is already at the end of its cycle and has diffused out. This is called “The Diffusion of Innovation” created by Everett Rogers. It helps to see the popularity and following of the consumer trend; whether it be macro or micro. Similarly, Henrik Vejlgaard’s Diamond Shaped Trend Model helps to see how long a trend will last based of influences, eg the availability of technology.
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PRINT 8
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The Solidarity Tag 10
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“The future is female..”
the catwalk
Sara Radin 2016
2016 was a very big year for politics. The United Kingdom’s departure from the EU, Donald Trump’s election to presidency, the resignation of David Cameron; a lot happened within a very short space of time. History was made, but not necessarily for the good. The world has been left quite an unhappy and unstable place with uproars following the outcome of some very drastic votes. Feminism is now as its strongest with frequent women’s marches and protests against Trump’s sexist views. His
plans for dealing with immigration have also provoked much reaction. “Build bridges not walls.” Sassy slogan tees have been around for quite a while now, but only recently has the writing on the top come straight from the protest placard. This trend first began as a fashion statement when celebrities such as Em Rata posted pictures wearing the tees on Instagram- a typical example of an early adopter in the “Diffusion of Innovation” system. Further research showed this trend at shows from January’s
Fashion Week at the beginning of the year. In New York’s catwalk shows, Creatures of Comfort, Public School and Christian Siriano all got in on the act. “The fashion industry is a vehicle for change, and the language of clothing is speaking louder than ever”( Sara Radin / 08.25.16)
celebrity influence
People want equality, unity and freedom and are expressing their views through clothing. 14
political campaigns
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influence from art
“Statements of solidarity and unity.” Hannah Watkins 2017
dark days yellow brick wall fire with fire stop sign Banksy’s mural on the UK’s department from te EU, in Dover.
blank canvas 16
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Abstract Camo 18
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texture
We’re moving away from military... the catwalk
The classic camo trend has seized the catwalk for quite a few years now with the statement print reaching both womenswear and menswear. The neutral khaki and earthy colours remain within the Autumn/Winter season of 2017 but only very subtly. The popular print
trend will take a modernist direction with pops of bright colours and reworked patterns, creating a distorted and blurred graphic effect. In terms of design, there is a clear resemblance between graffiti and camo with its statement colours and bold print. Brands such as H&M
(with it’s Kenzo collaboration) and Stella McCartney have adopted this trend already so by Autumn/ Winter 17 it will trickle down to the high street. Although the print has more male appeal it will still be seen in women’s outlets. 22
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high end X high street
cooling paint
“Digital manipulations of abstract artworks create amorphous patterns�
sunset haze jaguar
Nick Paget 2017
pop of pink vibrant splat
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Grafitti 26
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street art
the catwalk
statement red calligraphy ink pink patch
high end
denim blue lemon bomb
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high street
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east side gallary
“Graffiti looks showcase a DIY grunge aesthetic on statement outerwear where a mix of imagery and colour appears random and thrown together via graphic print.” Douglas Gilbey 2016 Graffiti art is taking on a new dimension this winter season, with explosions of colours and symbols appearing within collections. The trend quite obviously has its origins in the popular street art influenced by the likes of Banksy. Popular European cities such as Berlin have also contributed to
this movement through the graffiti found on the Berlin Wall (also known as the East Side Gallery). Currently this genre of visual display has found its way into visual merchandising on the high street in shops such as New Look and Urban Outfitters. By autumn, graffiti art will be establishing itself
further by appearing on print within clothing collections. WGSN has already indicated this by showing up and coming collections from designers such as Jian DeLeopn and Numero Homme. It’s all about the “skate, hip hop, graffiti and grunge”. (Marian Park 2017). 32
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VM
VISUAL MERCHANDISE
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Chemical Glow 36
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decoration
“Layer and overlap light to create a sense of richness and intriguing visual depth�
signage
Claire Dickinson 2016
instructive
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from then
cobolt
hydrogen
to now The neon light trend was very much in evidence at the Berlin Trade Show this January. Florescent lights were everywhere whether as signage, brand logos or just plain decoration. Both German and English high streets were mirroring this trend on a
similar scale including brands such as Topshop, Accesorize and even some popular chain restaurants. From the catwalk shows for A/W 17 it was obvious stores were taking inspiration from the likes of Molly Goddard with her vibrant neon collection at London Fashion Week.
A report on WGSN suggested that by Autumn/Winter 17 the trend will have moved away from signage and the chemical glow will have a more atmospheric feel to VM to create a sense of mood, including much deeper tones. 42
“An emerging design direction combines the dystopian mood of game environments and the anarchic qualities of Netstalgic graphics to construct fictional realities�
mercury helium carbon dioxide
Aleksandra Szymanska, LSN Global
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Outside Inside 44
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subtle decoration its a jungle out there swamp water bamboo scent
palm leave
window displays
lush green
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jungle feel
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vm&display show 2017
“Insta worthy.” From aesthetic palm trees to the real life garden patch, visual merchandise is fully on board with the leafy green store layout for the rest of the year. The original graphic print trend of pineapples and palm trees has definitely
moved on with stores such as Liberty and &Other Stories creating their very own back garden, in either the window or throughout the store. Similarly, the trend has continued throughout retail stores in other European countries. Soho House
“Greens are almost of a hyper quality, to create a lush, vibrant and thriving aesthetic in-store.” Mashable, UK, 2017
in Berlin, for example, was just full of greenery, very comparable to Britain’s chain The Botanist. By the end of the year high street brands will have adopted the trend fully within their stores to create this ecoloving look. 50
WGSN Global 2017
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Just hanging in there... 52
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street lights leaden steel grey slick matt glossy gold
decoration
clothing rail
transparent
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mannequin display
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"floating heads"
oliver bonas Visual merchandise in particular finds inspiration from all aspects of culture, whether creative or not. The next trend looks at the use of space and the best way of making the most of it. “Just hanging in there” was originally spotted as street decoration, in places such as Carnaby Street, London, simply
as a way of lighting up the road in a creative way. Following this, the trend was then spotted as an actual form of art in exhibitions and museums, an example being the Kelvingrove Art Gallery in Glasgow with its famous floating heads. A simple way to display art without taking up any space. High
end shops such as Dover Street Market and Karl Lagerfeld have begun picking up on this trend too with their garment displays in store. This great use of space will soon trickle down to the high street by A/W 17 creating a minimalistic and spacious feel. 58
“The Floating Heads installation at the Kelvingrove Museum in the Scottish city of Glasgow is quite literally turning heads. Cave created over 50 of them, each displaying different emotions including laughter and despair. The heads are completely white, but are lit so that their expressions are accentuated, which gives the installation a somewhat eerie feel. Since the installation is hung over the foyer, it is one of the first things visitors see when they enter the museum.” Alice Yoo 2010 59
MENSWEAR 60
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Other Usage 62
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practical camels back military green navy blue pebble beach
sportswear
concrete
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military look
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“Designers marched into the new season with a modern take on off-duty dressing” Sarah Young 2017
Inspired by the current camo print trend, military wear has been a popular menswear look for some time now. The khaki greens and stone colours can be spotted in many high street shops; including Urban Outfitters and Footasylum. Higher end brands which can be found in Selfridges and Dover
Street Market enforce the military look further but this time with more key items. Dominant mannequins in Selfridges are dressed in utility like clothes showing consumers how practicality and fashion can work as one. When comparing store collections to the catwalk trends for later this year it is clear that the utility
trend is everywhere. From hoodies and sweatshirts to ski jackets and boots, the “other usage” look is prominent. By Autumn/Winter this will have trickled down even more to the high street shops and become a sought-after trend. 68
selfridges 69
Brights 70
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influence from VM trend
rich hue
vibrant high-viz the alternative black cabolt blue hazard orange
the catwalk
pops of colour 74
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amanda yamasaki
“Bold seasonal shades of orange-red evolve the intense reds seen on the S/S 17 catwalks” Douglas Gilbey 2016 Taking a lead from some of the upcoming print trends, menswear fashion will be dominated by pops of bright colour within both high end and high street brands this winter. These will give a very youthful feel to a man’s wardrobe but at the same time the colours will stay autumnal by pairing with more muted tones.
In a recent WGSN report called “The Rise of Colour Tripping”, reporter Sarah Housley discusses the effect colours can have as well as the popular current trend of people wanting to immerse themselves within it. “At this month’s Milan Design Week, refracted light, and lighting that casts creative and colourful shadows, were confirmed
as a major trend. Amanda Yamasaki‘s rainbow-hued lighting was one of a number of products to play with ombre, scattered light and immersive colour.” (Sarah Housley 2017) This current design trend and further influences from others will contribute to the soonto-be menswear trend. 76
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Tailored Sport 78
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street style
“But why not give your suit a modern spin by mixing it with everyday pieces?�
the catwalk
Maja Havemann, GQ, 2017
vintage sports brands 82
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cambridge traditional tux sporting red fila blue Vintage sportswear is always having its comebacks; Fila, Ellesse, Puma are classic staples. This year the sports look for men is moving away from tracksuits and hoodies and is following a more formal air. The common street style look becomes a youthful juxtaposition combining two completely different
looks and making them work. Maja Havemann at GQ says, “Spotted throughout the menswear shows, sportswear-inspired collections and even collaborations are making their mark from Paris to New York. Think Marni’s blend of cool wool suits and breezy palette or Paul Smith’s latest collection, which
features stretch-wool tailored track pants alongside his classic slimfit suits. In other words, it’s a look that is definitely here to stay.” (2nd May 2017). These innovators will pass on the trend to early adopters creating the diffusion of innovation. 84
modern man
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Illustrations
Fig 12: Uni box (2017). Trend Report: Neon Signage [Online Image]. Available at: http://www. unibox.co.uk/news-inspiration/ trend-report-neon-signage Fig 13: Kiera Lambert (January 2017). [Own Image]
Fig 1: Boston University School of Public Health Theory (28th April 2016). The Diffusion of Innovation [Illustration]. Available at: http://sphweb.bumc.bu.edu/ otlt/MPH-Modules/SB/BehavioralChangeTheories/BehavioralChangeTheories4.html
Banksy claims responsibility for new Brexit mural in England. [Online Image]. Available at: http://mashable. com/2017/05/07/banksy-eu-mural/?utm_cid=hp-hh-pri#eFXW6Aauqiqj
WGSN.com Fig 8: Kiera Lambert (2017). Graffiti [Moodboard] Fig 9: Lara Hurtubise (16th December 2016). Exploring Berlin’s East Side Gallery [Online Image]. Available at: https://theculturetrip.com/ europe/germany/articles/exploring-berlins-east-side-gallery/
Fig 5: Isabel Wharton (2016). Abstract Camo- Songzio [Online ImFig 2: Hannah Watkins (15th Feb- age]. Available at: WGSN.com ruary 2017). Political Power- Public School [Online Image]. Available at: Fig 6: Kiera Lambert (2017). AbFig 10: Kiera Lambert (January WGSN.com stract Camo [Moodboard] 2017). [Own Image] Fig 3: Kiera Lambert (2017). The Fig 7: Dio Kurazawa (19th February 2017). Denim Wash & Finish Trends: Fig 11: Kiera Lambert (2017). ChemSolidarity Tag [Moodboard] Print & Graphics Edition- Faith Con- ical Glow [Moodboard] Fig 4: Adario Strange (May 2017). nexion [Online Image]. Available at:
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Fig 14: Kiera Lambert (2017). Outside Inside [Moodboard] Fig 15: WGSN (13th April 2017). Vm & Display Show 2017- Trend Analysis [Online Image]. Available at: WGSN.com Fig 16: Unknown (16th October 2017). Berlin Design Bar- Monkey Bar [Online Image]. Available at: http://bradleybrand.ie/berlin-design-bar/ Fig 17: Kiera Lambert (2017). Just Hanging In There… [Moodboard]
Fig 18: Oliver Barnes (date unknown). Pinterest [Online Image]. Fig 23: Kiera Lambert (2017). Available at: https://www.pinterest. Brights [Moodboard] se/pin/500955158532918177/ Fig 24: Sarah Housley (12th April Fig 19: Alice Yoo (2010). Floating 2017). The Rise of Colour TripHeads Installation By Sophie Cave ping [Online Image]. Available at: [Online Image]. Available at: http:// WGSN.com mymodernmet.com/floating-headsFig 25: Clare Varga (15th Febru10-pics/ ary 2017). Key Trends A/W 17/18: Fig 20: Clare Varga (15th Febru- Active- Ermenegildo Zegna [Online ary 2017). Key Trends A/W 17/18: Image]. Available at: WGSN.com Active [Online Image]. Available at: Fig 26: Kiera Lambert (2017). TaiWGSN.com lored Sports [Moodboard] Fig 21: Kiera Lambert (2017). Other Fig 27: Maja Havemann (2nd Usage [Moodboard]. May 2017). Modern Sport [Online Fig 20: Kiera Lambert (2017). [Own Image]. Available at: http://www. gq-magazine.co.uk/article/modImage] ern-sport Fig 22: Clare Varga (15th February 2017). Key Trends A/W 17/18: Active- MSGM [Online Image]. Available at: WGSN.com 87
References Dickinson, Claire (22nd November 2016). Visual Merchandising Forecast A/W 17/18: Nocturne [Online]. Available at: WGSN.com
Paget, Nick (26th January 2017). Stylefile A/W 17/18: Paris- Apparel, Abstract Camo [Online]. Available at: WGSN.com
room [Online]. Available at: http:// mashable.com/2017/04/19/shower-plants-trend-pinterest/#DPpnSaAB3Oqj
Gilbey, Douglas (23rd November 2016). Buyers’ Briefing A/W 17/18: Menswear Colour & Print [Online]. Available at: WGSN.com
Park, Marian (9th May 2017). Brands to watch- Glocal Downtown Sport A/W 17/18: Club Particular [Online]. Available at: WGSN.com
Stone (2008). Fashion Trends: Analysing and Forecasting by Eundeok Kim, Ann Marie Fiore & Hyejeong Kim [Book, page 1]
Havemann, Maja (2nd May 2017). Modern Sport [Online]. Available Radin, Sara (25th August 2016). at: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/ Pride and Politics: The Future Is Female [Online]. Available at: WGSN. article/modern-sportÂŹ com Housley, Sarah (12th April 2017). The Rise of Colour Tripping [Online]. Scelzo, Samantha (19th April 2017). 'Shower plants' will give Available at: WGSN.com you the perfect Insta-worthy bath-
Szymanska, Aleksandra (16th December 2016). Future Noir [Online]. Available at: https://www. lsnglobal.com/design-directions/ article/20587/future-noir Watkins, Hannah (15th February 2017). Political Power [Online]. Available at: WGSN.com 88
WGSN (13th April 2017). VM & Display Show 2017- Trend Analysis, Leafy Green [Online]. Available at: WGSN.com Yoo, Alice (27th March 2010). Floating Heads Installation by Sophie Cave [Online]. Available at: http://mymodernmet.com/floatingheads-10-pics/ Young, Sarah (11th April 2017). At Ease: How to wear the modern utility trend [Online]. Available at: http:// www.independent.co.uk/life-style/ fashion/fashion-trend-spring-summer-2017-military-utility-khaki-stella-mccartney-a7679341.html
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