L o n d o n
F a s h i o n
Daily
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LONDON, Sunday 22 nd February 2009
Viv Rules Ok! the fa s h o n m o m e n t b y b e c k y d av i e s a n d j e n n y d y s o n
At the School of Viv, class rules are as follows: “You’ve got to be a rebellious girl and you’ve got to rock your own look,” said the governess of anarchy post-show last night. You’ve probably got to not do your homework and studiously skip double maths, or else get detention, too. For what is the point of Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label if not a whole
Photog r aphy by anna baue r
heap of fun, rebel style? “People love this collection because it’s more relaxed,” she added. Model pupils rocked an array of individual looks, from Daisy Lowe’s oh-so-figure-hugging,three-quartersleeved black dress; Alice Dellal’s Grange Hill blazer, complete with school crest; and other pals sporting slim-cut trouser suits, knee-high socks, woollen leggings
and a pirate hat (above) – for that signature buccaneer spirit, naturally. And who better than Jo Wood to be the Westwood runway’s headmistress? Resplendent in a grey-checked trouser suit, deepplunged waistcoat and a red-and-blue cape. Viv joined Jo and the pupils to take her final bow, all of them laughing and joking as if it were the last day of school.
Why Statement Dressing is Over repor t b y J e s s i e Br i n t o n
Hooray! The pressure to appear at LFW sporting the perfect whatever bag and the latest whichever shoe is off. “Trying too hard doesn’t feel quite right,” said Elle’s Rebecca Lowthorpe, whose response to a front rower sporting the Vuitton tribal shoe was “utterly wrong”. “Effortlessness is far better,” she said. “It’s more interesting to wear something when no-one knows where it’s from. And no heels. My husband made me wear my Converse today.
W e e k
Such a cliché, but the only option.” Sophia Neophitou, who arrived to style the Sinha-Stanic show yesterday in a parka, confirmed our hunch: “People are finding lost stuff in their wardrobe. It’s low-key, but still very considered.” The freedom to look like you don’t care has always been closely linked to your place in the fashion pecking order. “People here look very good, but I’ve removed myself from that, I think,” said Vogue’s Alex Shulman. But the
new humility does level the playing field somewhat. This week, wherever you are on fashion’s pyramid, your new it-bag is your envelope of show tickets and your killer accessory is your small child. Or your friend. Or the jeans you’ve had for ages that fit you just so. Lowthorpe was rocking a particularly lovely blouson jacket with puffy sleeves. “Well, it’s Lanvin” she admitted, “but it’s Acne for Lanvin. And it’s denim, which tells you all you need to know.”
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Issue 1
Saying it Loud and Proud
Sssh Secret Squirrel
Repo r t by lucie g reene
Repor t by cat callende r
P hotography by Catwalking.com
The BFC celebrates 25 years of promoting British designers with something to say “It wasn’t all slick and fabulous like it is now,” says Betty Jackon, the famously red-lipped doyenne of British fashion. And, of course, she’s right. Back in 1984, when designers showcased in Earls Court alongside mainstream high-street retailers, UK fashion had little cohesion. So came The British Fashion Council. And for the first time designers such as Jasper Conran, Ghost, Bodymap, John Galliano and Jackson herself showed together. London started buzzing. “It was a shambles. It was completely disorganised. But we didn’t care, we were so excited,” recalls Jackson, whose autumn/winter ’09 show is today. “We all showed in this car park in Olympia. It wasn’t happening anywhere else in the world. Milan was beige. New York didn’t exist. Paris was very grown up. We felt like we had something to
say. A great wodge of designers with firm identities demanding change.” This year marks the 25th anniversary of London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Council. And what a legacy they’ve given rise to: a vibrant international platform worth £120 million to the economy; a city bursting at the Report continues on page 2
Vintage LFW: Jasper Conran a/w ’87
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Oh joy. Clements Ribeiro is back! And – just as you’d expect from the husband-and-wife team, best known for their elegantly idiosyncratic clothes – Suzanne and Inacio are doing it their way: with zero pomp and ceremony. “We wanted to keep it very small. We didn’t want to create a monster. So there is no hype,” said Ribeiro, who chose to forgo a flashy show in favour of unveiling the pair’s first all-singing, all-dancing collection since 2006, by appointment only, in their Notting Hill home. “It’s about focusing on what we do best. Everything is pretty individual, quite rare and not at all vulgar.” Cue four-ply cashmere blouson cardigans with frogging detail; chic dresses whipped up out of highdefinition lynx-fur-print silk; cashmere cardigans embellished with jet, crystal and pearl trompe l’oeil necklaces; and gold-spot chiffon smock dresses. In other words vintage Clements, or, as Suzanne puts it, “clumsy couture”.
02 •
LONDON, Sunday 22 nd February 2009
Catwalk Highlights
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
by vogue fashion features director harriet quick
photo g r a p h y w w w. c at wa l k i n g . c o m
John Rocha
“I was inspired by Queen Elizabeth I, pronounced shoulders, padded hips, beautiful fabrics and textures. Old fashioned but with a modern silhouette,” said John Rocha yesterday, outside the tent clutching a glass of Moët (in his own twirly stemmed crystalware flutes). His line up was indeed elegant: moulded silhouettes featuring said hips and strong shoulders, shaped black coats and lady-like jackets with skinny skirts beneath. For winters of content there were shearling boleros topping nude-chiffon flapper dresses for his romantic heroines.
Nathan Jenden
The charming Nathan Jenden was ready to oust his dad from his seat to accommodate the overflow of guests at the elegant Home House, but we all managed to squidge in to view his punky chic collection, which played to all his tailoring strengths. Slim black sheaths featured deconstructed inside-out seams. Others, kinky slashes and waistcoat-like fronts. Trousers were bound with bondage-like straps that whipped up round the torso of jackets. Paper-light white silk with delicate punch patterns was made into tiered evening dresses pure enough for Communion.
Peter Jensen
Charles Anastase
Peter Jensen is one of fashion’s truly happy chaps, with his cartoonish sense of glamour, informed by a richly coloured imagination. This season he took a trip to Nordic lands – to Greenland, in fact, where he found inspiration in folkloric culture. But his offerings were far from folksy. The looks were multi-layered, with cotton smock dresses worn with thigh-high white boots, trimmed with bands of rose print and tapestry, shoulders draped in beaded crochet capelets. There was glamour and sheen in the shape of silver-grey houndstooth metallic jackets and decoration a plenty with little twinsets banded with folkloric embroidery at the neckline. Little white-lace shift dresses peeped red linings, while skirts came in puffball shapes. And to brave icy winters there were rose-print padded ski jackets and gilets which, with those boots, make excellent après huskie-dog-race wear. “The Danish Government awarded my studio a grant to visit Greenland, which we did in deep midwinter,” explained Jensen, backstage after his show. “My aunt Jytte once lived there, arriving rather naively in mini skirts and stilettos, which she soon incorporated with native items to keep warm. She ran a chip shop and a taxi firm.” Enterprising indeed, just like her nephew Peter, who channeled her glam ethnic mix up to great effect.
Continued from page 1
seams with new designers; and a precedence of true excellence. British influence on the global fashion stage has never been so great. Our homegrown designers helm some of the biggest luxury brands in the world; our capital continues to be the go-to for houses seeking raw talent and new trend inspiration; meanwhile our makeup artists, stylists and photographers enjoy cult status. “The glorious thing about Britain is it gives creative people a chance,” says Judy Blame, stylist and jewellery designer. “No-one criticises
09:15 Betty Jackson BFC Tent 10:15 Todd Lynn TS/NW1 11:15 Nicole Farhi WC2 12:45 Christopher Kane** TS/NW1 14:00 Richard Nicoll TS/NW1 15:15 eley kishimoto bfc tent
you for having a bonkers idea. No other country could have produced McQueen, Galliano, or Westwood.” This LFW, our design talent is being celebrated with a burst of fashion philanthropy, in the form of cash prizes, bursaries and awards. Yesterday the British Council’s UK Young Fashion Entrepreneur Award was snatched up by sportswear designer Simeon Hartwig. At Friday’s Central Saint Martins MA Show, Harrods, Puma, Armani and the L’Oréal Group all delved into their pockets to award prizes to budding talent – including David Koma, Oden Wilson, Laura Mackness and Michael van der Ham. This year, the BFC will
16:30 Aquascutum SW3 17:45 Danielle Scutt * TS/NW1 19:00 Jaegar BFC Tent 20:00 PPQ W1 21:00 Twenty8Twelve WC1
Malia Obama, Kurt Cobain, Arthur Rimbaud. What do these unlikely bedfellows have in common? All are muses to Charles Anastase’s grunge-meetsbohemian-romantic collection. Cue staggeringly high, laced platform boots, graffitied denim, sawn-off smock dresses and sheer PJ trousers layered under mohair sweaters. His leather and shearling biker jackets will be a hit with the Alice Dellal and Pixie Geldof girls. Ditto the check, pleat-front blouses, deep-purple denim and truly luxe velvet shrunken jackets.
also launch a new award based on the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Award for designers building international businesses. Their Topshop-sponsored NEWGEN and Fashion Forward (supported by the London Development Agency), as well as the Net-A-Porter.com-sponsored annual Fashion Fringe, continue to laud new British talent. “London is so much about raw talent,” says Hilary Riva, chief executive of the BFC, for whom the council’s biggest achievement has been its support of new designers – the lifeblood of the British fashion scene. “Our new fund will help with the crucial infrastructure of
each business, helping make it venture-ready,” she says. According to Colin MacDowell, designers have never had it so good: “In their beginnings, the likes of Galliano received no support. If they had problems they muddled through and learned along the way.” This sense of creative energy looks to continue, too, recession or no recession. “I think the recession will make people more creative,” concludes Blame. “I’ve gone through the punk, rock and new rave eras. All of those times we didn’t have a penny in our purse. London’s going to really show off this season. I can feel it.” Happy birthday LFW!
For further information and important facts, please refer to the key below: * BFC New Gen sponsered by Topshop ** BFC Fashion Forward supported by LDA The BFC Tent: Natural History Museum, Cromwell Road, SW7 TS: TOPSHOP venue, P3 University of Westminster, Luxborough St, NW1
09:45 Falguni & Shane Peacock On/Off 09:45 Rocky S On/Off 14:00 Nico-d VFS 15:30 Krystof Strozyna On/Off 15:30 Emilio de la Morena On/Off 15:45 Hemyca VFS 17:00 Louise Amstrup VFS 18:00 Hass Idriss SW1
To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.lfwdaily.com
On Schedule shows: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Off Schedule shows: www.blow.co.uk On/Off: Science Museum, Exhibition Road, SW7 2DD www.thedoll.org/onoff Vauxhall Fashion Scout: Cnr Cromwell Road and Queen’s Gate, SW7 Schedule correct at time of printing. For updates contact the Timeline – 020 7942 3900 Today’s schedule has been created exclusively by illustrator Lucie Sheridan
18:00 Jacob Kimmie SW7 18:45 Junky Styling E1 19:00 Olanic VFS 19:00 Romina Karamanea E1 19:15 Victim vfs 19:30 bernard chandran On/Off 20:15 Sado On/Off
To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.lfwdaily.com
04 •
LONDON, Sunday 22 nd February 2009
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Kinder Surprise In ter v iew by T he obs er ver’ s Ali ce F is her
ph ot ography by Tara Darby
Paolo Aggugini comes out of his shell to crack his first London Fashion Week “I got an email from a model recently: ‘I understand you’re looking for people for your fashion walk?’” Kinder shakes his head sadly. “I was so insulted. Walk! If you do a fashion show, it’s part fashion, part show. I want theatrics.” And on Saturday morning he got his wish, with the debut show for his label, Kinder Aggugini, in the penthouse bar at the Paramount Club. The models – led by Erin O’Connor – gave fine performances on the runway. The collection, ‘Mash-Up’, was a showcase of Kinder’s craftsmanship. It was the perfect mix of clever concept and beautiful, wearable design – a hard trick to pull off, but one which Kinder achieved effortlessly. The collection seamlessly fused design details from different periods – a 19th-century officers’ mess jacket with a Fifties motorcycle one, and a dress that was all Twenties flapper from the front and sensuous, cowl-back Thirties evening gown to the rear – to produce a fashion language that was all Kinder’s own. The new collection was also inspired by the work of fashion photographer Sarah Moon. “I like the way she shoots things in a semi-blurred way, where the silhouette is more important than details,” says Kinder. “I primarily work on details, but this time I started on silhouette – strange and ballooned, or tight and odd, all very geometric – then manufactured them with a million details.” He used vivid prints, polka dots and florals, similar to those that gave last season’s collection such zing. This time they were layered to appear melted, or blurred. He declared himself “absolutely super-happy” with the show. “I wanted to start on time and I was 10 minutes late, but that’s OK.” Though it was his label’s catwalk debut yesterday, Paolo Aggugini – known to everyone as
Kinder – is a veteran. He’s worked for almost every notable fashion house in the world over the last two decades, from Versace and Vivienne Westwood to Calvin Klein and Paul Smith. When he started designing his own collections in 2006, stylists and editors, who’d admired his work over the years, were instant converts. His Paris Fashion Week showroom presentations in previous seasons received glowing reviews, and the label is already stocked, among other places, here in the UK at Dover Street Market and in the USA at Barneys New York. Madonna and Alexandra Shulman have both been seen wearing his designs. But he admitted that he was still nervous before showtime. “This is different. When I worked for other labels, the second the last model went out I could turn around and go home. This time that’s when I started fidgeting. Though it can’t be worse than being in a small showroom in Paris trying to make a room look nice. When Suzy Menkes walks in, you feel the sweat on the back of your neck.” Kinder opted for London Fashion Week because he’s lived here since he left his native Milan to study at Saint Martins in the Eighties – “I love London, and we produce so much talent here. We should have Fashion Fortnight instead of Fashion Week.” Preparation for his catwalk debut has been meticulous. As well as securing his ideal hair, make-up and stylist team – Malcolm Edwards, Charlotte Tilbury and Bill Mullen respectively – Stephen Jones also create outsized cloche hats for the show. Kinder decided to show on the runway a year ago, when no-one could have foreseen the economic downturn of the last six months, but he’s still determinedly optimistic. “The recession came and I got kicked in the shins, but I know what’s going to happen. You stop and wait for the storm to pass, or you ride the storm. I’ve chosen to ride the storm. For me it’s like the opening line of Goodfellas (“As far back as I can remember, I always wanted to be a gangster…”), well, for me it’s being a designer. I don’t want to do anything else.”
Ad ver t orial
Hooray for Harrods
This season, Harrods springs into action with exciting exclusives, reaffirming it as one of London’s most cutting-edge fashion destinations. The LFW Daily sneaks a peek at what’s on in London’s most iconic store… Harrods customers will be the first in the UK to get their mitts on a hot exclusive, none other than Brit-born, New York-raised Charlotte Ronson, trailblazing her exquisite spring/ summer ’09 range at Harrods Way In. Premiering in New York last September, the downtown-chic aesthetic of this New Yorker is just what you might expect from a bohemian girl whose twin sister happens to be DJ/musician Sam Ronson, and a certain producer extraordinaire and all-round super cool guy, Mark Ronson, her brother. Look out for high-waisted trousers, denim dresses and zippers galore. The iconic store has enlisted an array of labels to sit alongside a glamorous roster of established names, such as Jonathan Saunders, Aquascutum and Sofia Kokosalaki, in its Designer Studio, making its first-floor fashion area an absolute must for the sartorially inclined. Exclusive to Harrods this season are silk-chiffon gowns by London duo
Vidler & Nixon, divine silk-jersey dresses from Canadian design duo Greta Constantine and dazzling demi-couture from Haute Hippie. Championing new talent, as well as supporting established labels, is something Harrods loves to do. On Friday, and for the seventh year running, the store awarded its coveted Harrods Design Award to Central Saint Martins MA graduate David Koma. Following in the footsteps of Christopher Kane, Tatiana Katinova, Chloe’s Sarah Creaven and Balenciaga’s Yong Fong and Alistair Carr, the fashion world will be watching David Koma’s every move as 2009 progresses. As well as a £5,000 cash prize, David Koma will be showcasing his designs in one of the shop’s most prominent windows for two weeks. “British fashion designers have a reputation for pushing boundaries, which is key,” says Harrods fashion and beauty director Marigay McKee. She has been part of the judging
process for the Central Saint Martins Harrods Design Award since its inception in 2003. Discovering new design talent ties in with the store’s enduring quest to provide originality for its discerning customer base. “Our customers want unique pieces that cannot be seen on others. “We are constantly seeking out innovative yet commercial collections, and during this season’s LFW I look forward to seeing established brands like Aquascutum alongside the wealth of raw talent from shows like Central Saint Martins.” Left: Jonathan Saunders dress, Designer Studio, Womenswear, First Floor Top: David Steinhorst, winner of last year’s Central Saint Martins MA Fashion Show Harrods Design Award Above: Haute Hippie, Designer Studio, Womenswear, First Floor Images courtesy of Harrods
To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.lfwdaily.com
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Barometer
VV Fabulous R e p o r t b y j e s s i e b r int on
Cute boys sporting dangly earrings front row at Charles Anastase Breton tops the front row staple. French style comes to London Sunshine as a backdrop to a busy LFW day. The new optimism is here. Hooray! Half term Fashion mums and dads really missed their kids this weekend Overcrowding Nathan Jenden’s lovely show. Venue too crammed, more room next time, please! Fashion gannets We want more of that yummy butternut squash risotto from the Topshop venue Jumped up front row gatecrashers demanding proof of identity from the fashion eds whose seats they’ve nabbed
• 05
LONDON, Sunday 22 nd February 2009
Crazy for Hue pho tography BY alis tair guy
If you haven’t already, meet new Itgirl VV Brown, who, at the Topshop Unique show, wore Topshop shoes, a vintage Super Mario Land T-shirt from her own shop, Vvvintage.com, American Apparel leggings and a little bird hair comb she’d made. She’s 24, grew up in Northampton and loves Vivienne Westwood, Grace Jones, and manga and comic books. She likes London Fashion Week because she “always bumps into lovely people”.
Repor t by Anna Marie Solowij
Her favourite music is from the Fifties. She also adores David Bowie. Ergo, she describes her new album as “Fifties synthesised madness”. She’d rather spend an evening with a cup of soup, a good film and someone she loves than falling out of a club. The secret of her hairdo is a special bowl, lots of pins and a whole can of hairspray. She thinks fashion should be about self-expression, not conformity.
A Word For Our (Backstage) Sponsors… R e p o r t b y An n a - ma rie solowij
Used to playing second fiddle to its fashion counterparts, the beauty business comes into its own during the shows, providing essential economic support in the form of designer sponsorship. Once upon a time, Vidal Sassoon heavily financed the whole of LFW, but now an increasing number of beauty brands work carefully to forge links with their dream designers – in order to establish those all-important fashion credentials. It works both ways, and not only
in the financial favour of the designer. Giles Deacon is supported by Toni & Guy, who also provide hairdressing services for 23 London shows. “Their talent brings a great dimension to the final aesthetic,” says Deacon, whose show is tomorrow. “It’s great to have the support of a big brand,” agrees Christopher Brooke of Basso & Brooke who have had the backing of L’Oréal Paris hair and make-up teams for four seasons now. The make-up company MAC has evolved fashion relationships
to the extent that its make-up artist teams bring what happens backstage to the consumer, by creating limited-edition product ranges inspired by key shows. McQueen, Luella, Temperley, Zac Posen and Ungaro are a few of the company’s past creative collaborations. But it’s not all about established designers for MAC. Recognising the need to support nascent British talent, Central Saint Martins and The London College of Fashion also enjoy its philanthropy.
A flash of neon-orange lipstick, spotted across a crowded tube carriage this morning, turned out to be something of a London Fashion Week theme. Up it popped again, this time on the models at Nathan Jenden – their lips fluoresced in Tango-orange, making the models wearing the monochrome collection look like beautiful Belisha beacons. “New York was quite dowdy,” says stylist Sophia NeophitouApostolou, fresh from the shows Stateside. “Here, there’s much more optimism. There’s colour everywhere. Richard Nicoll has done lots of pale brights, colour with sequins at Unique and the Sinha-Stanic show featured vibrant purple.”
phot ography by anna bauer
splashed over the face and hair – with flashes of purple, pink and blue hair extensions; and fuchsia and turquoise lips. At Kinder, a palette of red, red and more red for eyes, cheeks and lips was vividly used. “We did the whole face using MAC Ruby Woo lipstick,” said Charlotte Tilbury. “There’s something so uplifting and ultimately optimistic about using one bold colour everywhere.” Pictured: backstage at Ashish
“There’s much more optimism. There’s colour everywhere” Bright colours bullied their way to the front at Ashish, where the cacophony of colours even
Marshall Amps it up: Hannah Marshall (second from left) with Ipso Facto band members at her On/Off presentation last night. Photography by Alistair Guy Advertorial
May Fair Fashion Moment 1. The M ay Fa i r s c h i a pa r e l l i S u it e
Vibrant and witty, hot pinks in delicious fabrics make a statement that’s pure retro glamour. Official hotel of London Fashion Week
Getting Down and Dirty
Twittering Twits?
Trend repor t by lauren cochrane
Repor t by jessie brinton
If the confluence of the Eighties and Nineties was the watershed moment that inspired many of last September’s London shows, this season designers have moved things on a pace – or, more precisely, two years – to embrace grunge. Appropriately for an aesthetic driven by an American music movement, the revival first surfaced in New York last week – birthplace of the 1992 Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs ‘Grunge’ collection. Alexander Wang took his show to Roseland Ballroom and smartened up grunge by pairing ripped tights with Muglerstyle dresses. Elsewhere, Charlotte Ronson plundered her rock heritage with plaid and bed-head hair. Yesterday, London designers proved they, too, are just as in love with Kurt Cobain and friends. Thirtyyear-old Charles Anastase saw his autumn/winter collection as an opportunity to “explore” his youth. Such memories played out in a collection featuring over-dyed denims, graffitied Tees, plaid shirts and battered jackets – as well as boots and faces spattered with mud, musicfestival style. Topshop Unique’s design team also took to the DIY spirit of grunge
pho t ography alis tair guy
(pictured). Dubbing the collection “a festival in cyberspace”, stylist Katie Grand cited photographer Corinne Day’s early-Nineties images for The Face as inspiration. See hair plaited with neon braids, layered mohair and hand-made pieces, such as a jacket knitted out of videotape tape. “It’s festivals, yes, but not like they are now,” explained Karen Bonser, who heads up the design team. “We were thinking more of girls dancing in aircraft hangers in the countryside.”
The question dividing the fashion world this week is: can Twitter be chic? Front row at John Rocha, I spotted Antonia from the Express tweeting from her iPhone. “It’s definitely chic,” she said. “It’s books for the 20-second generation.” Celebrated fashion scribe, Charlie Porter was busily typing something erudite and concise about the show music at Margaret Howell for his tweet. “Fashion people are always super Luddites,” said Porter. “And
mostly Twitter doesn’t have pictures, so that might scare them.” But while Porter has been Twittering diligently this week, giving his followers insight into his feelings on almost everything, not everyone is so keen to unveil the workings of their psyches. One grande dame of fashion, who chose to remain anonymous, felt strongly about this. “Enough’s enough,” she said. “It’s narcissistic self-indulgence. Find me on my landline.”
Nicole Farhi in Oscar Shocker! Repor t by lucie greene
“I told him, call if it’s good news. If it’s bad news, let me sleep,” says Nicole Farhi of her playwright husband Sir David Hare, who’s at the Oscars today, having been nominated for Best Adapted Screenplay for The Reader. Instead, the designer will have her own spotlight moment this morning, when her show kicks off at 11am. Farhi is a success story of the British fashion industry. The bright young newbies may grab the
To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.lfwdaily.com
headlines, but Farhi’s 25-year-old business boasts 26 stores and concessions, and an impressive 400 stockists globally. What’s more, the brand’s new managing director – LVMH and Browns veteran Niki Scordi – is freshly on board, and Farhi is launching pre-collections and plans store re-fits this year. “You can get stuck in a rut, so it’s good to shake things up,” she says. “It gives you a fresh perspective.”
06 •
LONDON, Sunday 22 nd February 2009
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
Teenagers in Trouble
Howell Very Dare You
Words B y J e n n y Dy s o n
report by Becky Davies
Photography by Valerie Phillips
Mulberry’s latest collection stars a Miss Jean Brodie gal gone bad “I was definitely a teen gone sulky and mean,” says Emma Hill, creative director of Mulberry, of her adolescent years. This may explain why her autum/winter ’09 collection for the luxury British brand has the subtitle ‘Teens Gone Mean’. It stars Hill’s version of the Mulberry lass. “She’s one of Miss Jean Brodie’s girls. She starts off in collegiate-style blazers and is neat and studious. Then she meets our Mulberry boy, who’s a little bit naughty. She doesn’t become a serial killer or anything, she’s just a bit wayward.” Not that Hill’s offering is just for teens. If anything, its prim spin on punk references – patent-purple heels, filmic, tree-print frocks and mohair suits – would more than cut it in the boardroom, as opposed to behind the bike sheds. Which is just as well given that Hill has no specific demographic for the ideal Mulberry customer. “Anyone should be able to wear it. Mulberry is not rigid.” To see how real teens interpret the new collection, The Daily invited DJ Tom Travis and his model girlfriend Sabina to have a rifle through it. Their verdict? “I love the way it’s got that English-heritage feel, but with a super-fun twist,” Tom says. As for Sabina, “Niiiiice.” We couldn’t agree more.
Tom and Sabina wear just about everything by Mulberry, except: hoody, Tom’s own; and blue-ruffled skirt, Sabina’s own.
Wolf whistles would not have been out of place at designer Margaret Howell’s tantalising show yesterday. In contrast to her trademark buttoned-up aesthetic, a seam of sensuality flowed throughout her new collection. Filmy silk camisoles and cami-knickers, worn under gentlemen’s shirts and paired with over-the-knee socks and riding boots, revealed a slither of thigh as Howell played peekaboo for the first time. The effect was rather saucy.
Grand Designs report by becky davies
Photography by Alistair Guy
A dishevelled, downbeat mood may be seeping through elsewhere on the runways, but not so at yesterday’s Basso & Brooke show. “A recession is the best opportunity to shine,’ said Bruno Basso post show brightly, citing Louis XIV’s opulent taste as the driving force behind the collection. “This is special clothing for my ideal customer who is intelligent, stylish and can afford the clothes.” Prim silhouettes contained the chaos of
A d v e r t o r i al
Editor’s Choice
“Yes it was a bit cheeky,” said Howell with a smile backstage postshow. “We took the inspiration from the little accessories in a gentleman’s wardrobe and played around with the clothes by putting, for example, jackets over shorts.” For fan Erin O’Connor it was a delicious combination. “I love how sexy Margaret Howell’s clothes are in a quiet, gentle way. It’s as if I’m being held by each garment’s simple structure, allowing me to be the woman inside of it.”
Who better to edit the fabulous spring/summer ’09 collection in store now at H&M than the fashion editors themselves?
1. SARAH HARRIS, FASHION FEATURES WRITER, VOGUE
I love this soft duck-egg blue for summer and the pushedup giant puffy sleeve makes it exotic looking. I can’t resist an impressive silhouette. I’d wear it with baggy cuffed jeans and my white leather Pierre Hardy flat sandals. Shirt, £ 24.99. Shorts, £19.99 H&M Stockists: 020 7323 2211, or visit www.hm.com To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.lfwdaily.com
maximalist, computer generated prints. Evoking a lavish sense of grandeur, these were based on renderings of period cornicing, neo-classical columns and moiré silk wallpaper. Bags were large and overstated, or neat with gold-chain straps, while the elaborate hairpieces were designed by Stephen Jones (above). The soundtrack to accompany the model’s final parade was a pitch-perfect Baroque version of Britney Spears’ Toxic.
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
• 07
LONDON, Sunday 22 nd February 2009
e k a T a
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Fashionable Fun and games brought to you by pop-up publication RUBBISH Magazine. www.rubbishmag.com
I ♥ Dhoti report by C at Calle nd er
Designer Dish Markus Lupfer’s Cheesecake Markus Lupfer is the designer for Armand Basi One, which showed at LFW yesterday. He also has his own knitwear label I love cakes I bake a cake at least once a month. It always reminds me of home – the smell of a freshly baked cake in the house has a very cosy feeling. I first started when I was 12, after watching mum and grandmum baking. I always thought it was quite magical and loved licking the cake whisks. I love a swiss roll. There is a great science to getting it just right: too much beating and it turns to rubber, too little and it breaks when you try and roll it up.
Food and fashion are not dissimilar Sometimes with food you can be very spontaneous, creating your own version of a well-known recipe. One of the best parts of designing a collection is when you’re so into it that it comes more from the heart. You may have the recipe there, but you’re not so prescriptive. Cooking, fashion design, or creating in any way have to have soul If that is gone, forget it. It’s become meaningless.
A dusting of icing sugar hides a multitude of sins If you have a baking disaster, simply whip out a sieve and dust away. Vindicated. That’s what I felt sitting front row at the Armand Basi One show. Having been taunted all day by The Daily team for wearing a pair of nappy sack, drop-crotch harem pants, how wonderful of Markus to create a role call of dhoti fabulousness. Harem Teddy Boys... who’d have thought, but boy did they rock!
Saturday roasts are a lovely way to hang out with friends My housemate [accessories designer Katie Hillier] and I get into a groove when she’s in town. We often do a big roast chicken with potatoes and gravy for our friends.
For Markus Lupfer’s cheesecake recipe, and more behind the scenes images go to: www.dailyrubbish.co.uk Interview by Jenny Dyson Photography by Valerie Phillips
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n! ditio ne, E n a do Lon opher K a, t l l s i Chr les, Lue & ith Gi l Sm ne u a P ien d V iv o two Wes
Kanye West mooching about London Fashion Week with a hot chick. LFW’s The Daily Credits Created by Jenny and the Cat Club EDITORS Jenny Dyson & Cat Callender MANAGING EDITOR Jana Dowling DESIGNERS George Wu & Bianca Wendt CHIEF SUB Vicky Willan DISTRIBUTION & MANTERN George Ryan REPORTERS Jessie Brinton, Becky Davies, Lauren Cochrane, Lucie Greene
Happy snaps: Big Viv and her Little Viv. Photographed together by Anna Bauer.
BEAUTY CORRESPONDENT Anna-Marie Solowij STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Anna Bauer & Alistair Guy
Beauty Spot: In the Black r ep ort by Ann a- mari e solowij
With a line up of 10 famous models, many flown over just for the 15 minutes it took to parade a deluxe collection of pieces – executed in no-expense-spared luxe python, cashmere, fox and Harry Winston diamonds – it was apparent the Qasimi show was out to singlehandedly flout the current economic gloom. The audience applauded as Yasmin Le Bon, Liberty Ross, Erin O’Connor, Jasmine Guinness, Jade Parfitt, Jacquetta Wheeler, Adina
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Catherine Bullman, Kila Car-Ince, Gabrielle Medina PRINTED BY THE GUARDIAN with special thanks to Richard J. Thompson
p hotogra phy by Ann a Bauer
Fohlin, Cecilia Chancellor, Lily Cole and the still-exquisite-in-her-70s Carmen dell’Orifice swept the catwalk wearing dramatic all-black couture pieces (Adina’s look was flown to New York to be fitted on her). The collection required nothing more than defiant black eye make-up, realised in calligraphic flourishes, feline flicks and swishes. Blackened eyes made an appearance at Eun Jeong, too. This former Fashion Fringe winner themed her collection ‘Black Vanity’
and featured darkly contoured eyeshadow highlighted with silver. L’Oréal Paris make-up artist James Kaliardos described the look as “mysterious and serious, rather than sexy, glam, or glitzy”. At Noir, the make-up theme was… black, with eyes encircled, over and over and over again, Sixties style, dominating all other features of the blanked out faces. Could black be the one big beauty look guaranteed to get the country out of the red next season?
To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.lfwdaily.com
PUBLISHED BY RUBBISH INK LTD www.rubbishmag.com THANKS TO ALL OUR PAPER GIRLS, you know who you are! Thanks also to… Red Bull, their Mini’s gave wings to The Daily team! Climate Cars for transport support The May Fair Hotel for providing us with a deluxe pop-up production office Ocado for providing healthly sustenance for the ever-snacking team
To view The London Fashion Week Daily online go to www.lfwdaily.com