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THE FA S H O N M O M E N T B Y A N N A - M A R I E S O L O W I J
P H O T O GRAPHY BY ANNA BAUER
another’s ideas. “She’ll say, ‘How about this?’ And I’ll say, ‘Great and we can add that?’,” says Savannah. It’s taken this show for the duo to really understand who they have in mind when designing for Twenty8Twelve. The 80-piece collection looks like it could have been culled straight from a London girl’s wardrobe. “There’s a punk dress in there, a classic tee and great boot- cut jeans – stuff you
London Fashion Week Venue Change
Kindness Counts
REPOR T BY NICOLA COPPING
REPOR T BY JESSIE BRINTON
have to have,” says Sienna of the collection that included girly silkprinted blouses, a cowel-backed Swarovski-encrusted mini dress (above) and denim leggings. It’s apparent that the combined forces of the Miller sisters has met and melded to produce a covetable collection of clothes that, according to Sienna, “started out as grungy, then went tailored, but somehow met in the middle”.
Goodbye tents, hello Neoclassical splendour. Next season, London Fashion Week’s venue will move to the fabulous Somerset House. It is news well received by those accustomed to trekking to shows dotted in every London postcode. “I think it will be good for everyone,” says Lisa Armstrong, fashion editor of The Times. “It’s much better placed between the East and West Ends. It’s also a beautiful site, and hopefully
For Kane, it always comes together at the eleventh hour. “When Russell [Marsh] puts the dresses on one of his girls, I’m suddenly, like, ‘Wow!’” says the designer. Indeed. Especially when they’re girls like Jessica Stam and Jourdan Dunn. But in many ways this was a departure for Kane. Unlike past collections, which have abruptly changed tact from one season to the next, autumn/winter ’09 referenced a back catalogue of previous
hits. The nude-coloured, sheer-ruffle dresses of spring/summer ’08? Tick. The bodycon sheaths of his debut show? Tick. The forest-green and velvet fabrics of his autumn/winter ’07/’08 collection? Tick. Backstage Kane was also eager to share the news about his other exciting new project: a T-shirt line. Featuring a photo print of a gorilla head (pictured on Kane, right) the tees will go on sale later this year and will no doubt make fans go ape.
there’ll be less chance of finding yourself in the queue for T. Rex.” Erin Mullaney, buying director at Browns boutique, adds: “We are very excited about the change in location. The Natural History Museum has been a great venue for several seasons now, but Somerset House is gorgeous and is very central and easy to get to and from. I think it will be an exciting new change for Report continues on page 2
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y A N N A BAUER
Half an hour before Jourdan Dunn opened Christopher Kane’s show, some of the outfits were still being finished off. Not that this was apparent when the lights went up. Jourdan et al looked immaculate. Dressed in sheer-panelled organza dresses, outlined in velvet-ribbon trim; moss-green, bib-fronted bodice dresses with sunray-pleat skirts; and bodycon sheaths, cut-out at the back to reveal a slither of shoulder blade, this was a tour de
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ISSUE 2
All Hail King Kane REPOR T B Y L A U R E N C O C H R A N E
“Bringing you all the news from fashion’s front line”
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Sister Act It’s the show they weren’t planning to have, but which ended up being one of the most hotly anticipated dates on the fashion schedule. Sienna, fresh in from LA, is backstage at The Dairy – venue for Twenty8Twelve’s debut catwalk show – arm in arm with Saint Martins-grad and big sis Savannah, not so much holding her up, as providing support. Not only do the sisters finish one anothers’ sentences, they riff off one
W E E K
force and trademark Kane – unique, desirable, girly and tough. “It was totally last minute,” admitted Kane backstage. “I had a mental block before this collection.” Going back to the drawing board, literally, got things moving. Kane found inspiration in some of the first felt-tip fashion sketches he ever drew. “That’s where the black lines came from,” he said referencing the panel construction that was picked out in black.
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
In an industry where “All’s fair in love and fashion!” and “Elbows first!” have long been the credo, something special is happening both on and off the runways. At Christopher Kane, the sweet Scot thoughtfully sent some (but not all) girls onto the runway in comfy flats. Front row – a notoriously lonely, and some might say bitter, place to spend your time – an editor asked a member of The Daily staff for a pen (an act of supreme ego-swallowing in itself), and returned it at the end with a big grateful smile. Later, something else happened that will truly warm the cockles. Award for the most astounding act of fashion kindness goes to fashion scribe Charlie Porter. Sat next to The Telegraph Magazine’s Daniela Agnelli, the two found themselves, as the bright lights went up, still holding the soup they had been eating for lunch. “Oh no! How will I take notes?” asked Agnelli. “Don’t worry,” said Porter chivalrously, “I’ll hold them both.” And so he did, for the whole show. Just thinking about it brings tears to the eyes, it really does.
02 •
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Catwalk Highlights
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
BY REBECCA LOWTHORPE, FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR, ELLE UK
PHOT O G R A P H Y W W W. C AT WA L K I N G . C O M
Betty Jackson Maybe Betty Jackson can teach us a thing or two about recession. This is, after all, a designer who’s been in business since 1981 – and who else in London can say that? She’s already ridden two major financial downturns and come out smiling the other end, so what can this stalwart tell us about getting through the gloom? “It’s going to be tough,” she said a couple of weeks ago in her studio, where the walls were plastered with her inspirations – iconic black-and-white Avedons – “but we just have to be the best at what we do.” That translated into volume and texture – mohair, tweed, velvet, pyjama silks – and a quintessentially English take on winter clothes. Read: eccentric. Could an outfit comprising turquoise-patent shoes, royal-blue wrinkled stockings, brown-silk tea dresses and shouldergrazing plastic earrings be described as anything else? These and the drop-crotch cashmere trousers and shrunken-mohair jumpers are Betty’s weapons for conquering the financial slump.
Todd Lynn “People still want luxury, just in a clever way,” said the designer backstage. This was a luxed-up Lynn, with his SAGA fox and Swarovski crystal, his goat-hair Louboutins and smooth pitch-black leathers and velvets. What Lynn struck so neatly was the balance between super-deluxe fabrics and rigorous pared-back design that meant his collection never felt ostentatious. It was sexy, yet covered up; upscale without being showy. Even the ecclesiastical references – a leather capelet that buttoned to the throat, the crystal scarves inspired by clerical vestments, the girls clutching rosaries – never felt heavy. There was no doom-laden message here, just a perceptive expression of our times. And the really neat trick was to keep his Lynn-isms in tact: the second-skin trousers and those goth-rock leather jackets (surely as good as any by Rick Owens?). So what if there was very little in the way of skirts or dresses. That’s because he knows what his customer wants – and it ain’t skirts and dresses!
Richard Nicoll
Danielle Scutt
During the show, it was hard not to stare at a woman front row dressed all in white. She sat bolt upright, legs crossed, and smiled serenely. It was Linder Sterling – the artist best known for her seminal punk record-sleeve-covers and, this season, Nicoll’s muse and co-collaborator. Richard Nicoll does punk? Well, no, there was no obvious fetishising of leather and safety pins, or any clichéd romps around the angry late-Seventies, and certainly no literal interpretation of Sterling’s most famous scalpel collages (check out the Buzzcock’s 1977 ‘Orgasm Addict’). Instead he had been looking at her later work, depicting a Fifties soft-porn photo session that she’d overlaid with images of giant irises – hence his collection of subtly subversive clothes oozing sexual tension. It was underwear as outerwear, or “utilitarian lingerie” as Nicoll called it, so under transparent ‘flasher’ macs we had delicate beribboned corsets that were just begging to be unlaced. Hip-hugging skirts were issued with provocative suspender clips, prim canvas macs with nude-patent shoulders and gold-Lurex panels traced the curves of the body on form-fitting dresses. “I’m so lucky,” sighed Sterling after the show, “to have worked with Richard on this, a brilliant collection.” And his best so far.
This is a designer who divides opinion. And it’s not even a generational thing – although those in their late twenties seem to appreciate it more than those in their late thirties. “That was fantastic!” raved a twentysomething Elle girl, “It reminded me of when I wore Lycra dresses and skin-tight jeans and went to jungle raves.” “I loved the prints and the loose velvet dress,” piped another, “it was like Balmain but for younger people.” Others, however, were less enthusiastic: “It looked so studenty,” grimaced one. “I just don’t get it,” said another. So what’s all the fuss about? Scutt’s vision is hard – as nails – and unapologetically so. Her woman is a power vixen in a patent stiletto who embraces skin-tight dresses (this season, ingeniously slashed all over the place with punkish zips) and tricky pieces, such as body suits cut so tight they might stop your blood circulation and a one-sleeved corset. She’s not everyone’s cup of tea… but isn’t that her power? Anyone who can generate that much debate is surely worth watching.
Continued from page 1
LFW and will breathe new life into the shows and exhibition held there.” “Somerset House provides us with the space to move fashion week forward, onto a new level – bringing broader audiences, using new initiatives and new ways of thinking,” says the BFC’s chairman Harold Tillman. The move follows this season’s effort to house the three principal components of LFW – the tents, On/Off and Vauxhall Fashion Scout – in one South Ken conglomeration. Martyn Roberts, director of Vauxhall Fashion Scout, likes the idea of a hub: “We listened to media and buyers,
09:00 OSSIE CLARK BFC TENT 10:00 LUELLA WC2 11:00 ERDEM** WC2 12:15 JULIEN MACDONALD TS/NW1 13:15 MARIOS SCHWAB** NW1 14:30 JASPER CONRAN NW1
and one of their leading criticisms of LFW was the amount of time it took to get from one venue to another.” On/Off has relocated from the Royal Academy to the Science Museum, completing the trio. “It felt time for a fresh start,” says Lee Lapthorne, its director. “The Science Museum was one of the best venues available, it did help make our decision that we were right next door to the tents. We’ve also started scouting for places around Somerset house for next season. “Over the past 25 years, London has built a reputation for showcasing and supporting emerging talent,” says the BFC’s Hilary Riva. “London’s
15:30 ROKSANDA ILLINCIC SW1 16:45 LOUISE GOLDIN WC1 17:45 GILES WC1 19:00 PAUL SMITH W1 20:00 ISSA BFC TENT
strength is the combined force of iconic designers, heritage brands, established businesses, rising stars and new, exciting emerging designers – showing alongside each other on schedule and in the exhibition.” But will the new venue encourage those who choose not to show in the tents to change their minds, increasing the overall strength of a central hub? “If they [the BFC] were offering Somerset house, the inside, as a venue then I’d be interested, but I’d never show in the tents, they’re really souless,” says designer Richard Nicoll. “If you choose your own venue you can reflect a mood, it makes the
collection and the message stronger. Why don’t they use the money to rent a venue that’s going to appease everyone?” In response, Hilary Riva said: “Somerset House allows us the flexibility to work with designers in different ways: there are beautiful spaces there that will accommodate salon-style shows, showrooms, exhibitions and catwalk. Many designers will continue to use alternative venues to stage their shows, however, being more centrally located will reduce travel time, help us improve scheduling and enhance the experience for visitors to London Fashion Week.”
For further information and important facts, please refer to the key below: * BFC New Gen sponsered by Topshop ** BFC Fashion Forward supported by LDA The BFC Tent: Natural History Museum, Cromwell Road, SW7 TS: TOPSHOP venue, P3 University of Westminster, Luxborough St, NW1
12:15 PAM HOGG ON/OFF 14:30 OLIVIA RUBIN ON/OFF 14:45 HARRIET’S MUSE VFS 18:30 UNTOLD WC1
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
On Schedule shows: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Off Schedule shows: www.blow.co.uk On/Off: Science Museum, Exhibition Road, SW7 2DD www.thedoll.org/onoff Vauxhall Fashion Scout: Cnr Cromwell Road and Queen’s Gate, SW7 Schedule correct at time of printing. For updates contact the Timeline – 020 7942 3900 Today’s schedule has been created exclusively by illustrator Lucie Sheridan
19:30 SAMIA MALIK E1 19:45 WILLIAM TEMPEST VFS 20:30 ONOFF PRESENTS ON/OFF
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
02 •
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Catwalk Highlights
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
BY REBECCA LOWTHORPE, FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR, ELLE UK
PHOT O G R A P H Y W W W. C AT WA L K I N G . C O M
Betty Jackson Maybe Betty Jackson can teach us a thing or two about recession. This is, after all, a designer who’s been in business since 1981 – and who else in London can say that? She’s already ridden two major financial downturns and come out smiling the other end, so what can this stalwart tell us about getting through the gloom? “It’s going to be tough,” she said a couple of weeks ago in her studio, where the walls were plastered with her inspirations – iconic black-and-white Avedons – “but we just have to be the best at what we do.” That translated into volume and texture – mohair, tweed, velvet, pyjama silks – and a quintessentially English take on winter clothes. Read: eccentric. Could an outfit comprising turquoise-patent shoes, royal-blue wrinkled stockings, brown-silk tea dresses and shouldergrazing plastic earrings be described as anything else? These and the drop-crotch cashmere trousers and shrunken-mohair jumpers are Betty’s weapons for conquering the financial slump.
Todd Lynn “People still want luxury, just in a clever way,” said the designer backstage. This was a luxed-up Lynn, with his SAGA fox and Swarovski crystal, his goat-hair Louboutins and smooth pitch-black leathers and velvets. What Lynn struck so neatly was the balance between super-deluxe fabrics and rigorous pared-back design that meant his collection never felt ostentatious. It was sexy, yet covered up; upscale without being showy. Even the ecclesiastical references – a leather capelet that buttoned to the throat, the crystal scarves inspired by clerical vestments, the girls clutching rosaries – never felt heavy. There was no doom-laden message here, just a perceptive expression of our times. And the really neat trick was to keep his Lynn-isms in tact: the second-skin trousers and those goth-rock leather jackets (surely as good as any by Rick Owens?). So what if there was very little in the way of skirts or dresses. That’s because he knows what his customer wants – and it ain’t skirts and dresses!
Richard Nicoll
Danielle Scutt
During the show, it was hard not to stare at a woman front row dressed all in white. She sat bolt upright, legs crossed, and smiled serenely. It was Linder Sterling – the artist best known for her seminal punk record-sleeve-covers and, this season, Nicoll’s muse and co-collaborator. Richard Nicoll does punk? Well, no, there was no obvious fetishising of leather and safety pins, or any clichéd romps around the angry late-Seventies, and certainly no literal interpretation of Sterling’s most famous scalpel collages (check out the Buzzcock’s 1977 ‘Orgasm Addict’). Instead he had been looking at her later work, depicting a Fifties soft-porn photo session that she’d overlaid with images of giant irises – hence his collection of subtly subversive clothes oozing sexual tension. It was underwear as outerwear, or “utilitarian lingerie” as Nicoll called it, so under transparent ‘flasher’ macs we had delicate beribboned corsets that were just begging to be unlaced. Hip-hugging skirts were issued with provocative suspender clips, prim canvas macs with nude-patent shoulders and gold-Lurex panels traced the curves of the body on form-fitting dresses. “I’m so lucky,” sighed Sterling after the show, “to have worked with Richard on this, a brilliant collection.” And his best so far.
This is a designer who divides opinion. And it’s not even a generational thing – although those in their late twenties seem to appreciate it more than those in their late thirties. “That was fantastic!” raved a twentysomething Elle girl, “It reminded me of when I wore Lycra dresses and skin-tight jeans and went to jungle raves.” “I loved the prints and the loose velvet dress,” piped another, “it was like Balmain but for younger people.” Others, however, were less enthusiastic: “It looked so studenty,” grimaced one. “I just don’t get it,” said another. So what’s all the fuss about? Scutt’s vision is hard – as nails – and unapologetically so. Her woman is a power vixen in a patent stiletto who embraces skin-tight dresses (this season, ingeniously slashed all over the place with punkish zips) and tricky pieces, such as body suits cut so tight they might stop your blood circulation and a one-sleeved corset. She’s not everyone’s cup of tea… but isn’t that her power? Anyone who can generate that much debate is surely worth watching.
Continued from page 1
LFW and will breathe new life into the shows and exhibition held there.” “Somerset House provides us with the space to move fashion week forward, onto a new level – bringing broader audiences, using new initiatives and new ways of thinking,” says the BFC’s chairman Harold Tillman. The move follows this season’s effort to house the three principal components of LFW – the tents, On/Off and Vauxhall Fashion Scout – in one South Ken conglomeration. Martyn Roberts, director of Vauxhall Fashion Scout, likes the idea of a hub: “We listened to media and buyers,
09:00 OSSIE CLARK BFC TENT 10:00 LUELLA WC2 11:00 ERDEM** WC2 12:15 JULIEN MACDONALD TS/NW1 13:15 MARIOS SCHWAB** NW1 14:30 JASPER CONRAN NW1
and one of their leading criticisms of LFW was the amount of time it took to get from one venue to another.” On/Off has relocated from the Royal Academy to the Science Museum, completing the trio. “It felt time for a fresh start,” says Lee Lapthorne, its director. “The Science Museum was one of the best venues available, it did help make our decision that we were right next door to the tents. We’ve also started scouting for places around Somerset house for next season. “Over the past 25 years, London has built a reputation for showcasing and supporting emerging talent,” says the BFC’s Hilary Riva. “London’s
15:30 ROKSANDA ILLINCIC SW1 16:45 LOUISE GOLDIN WC1 17:45 GILES WC1 19:00 PAUL SMITH W1 20:00 ISSA BFC TENT
strength is the combined force of iconic designers, heritage brands, established businesses, rising stars and new, exciting emerging designers – showing alongside each other on schedule and in the exhibition.” But will the new venue encourage those who choose not to show in the tents to change their minds, increasing the overall strength of a central hub? “If they [the BFC] were offering Somerset house, the inside, as a venue then I’d be interested, but I’d never show in the tents, they’re really souless,” says designer Richard Nicoll. “If you choose your own venue you can reflect a mood, it makes the
collection and the message stronger. Why don’t they use the money to rent a venue that’s going to appease everyone?” In response, Hilary Riva said: “Somerset House allows us the flexibility to work with designers in different ways: there are beautiful spaces there that will accommodate salon-style shows, showrooms, exhibitions and catwalk. Many designers will continue to use alternative venues to stage their shows, however, being more centrally located will reduce travel time, help us improve scheduling and enhance the experience for visitors to London Fashion Week.”
For further information and important facts, please refer to the key below: * BFC New Gen sponsered by Topshop ** BFC Fashion Forward supported by LDA The BFC Tent: Natural History Museum, Cromwell Road, SW7 TS: TOPSHOP venue, P3 University of Westminster, Luxborough St, NW1
12:15 PAM HOGG ON/OFF 14:30 OLIVIA RUBIN ON/OFF 14:45 HARRIET’S MUSE VFS 18:30 UNTOLD WC1
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
On Schedule shows: www.londonfashionweek.co.uk Off Schedule shows: www.blow.co.uk On/Off: Science Museum, Exhibition Road, SW7 2DD www.thedoll.org/onoff Vauxhall Fashion Scout: Cnr Cromwell Road and Queen’s Gate, SW7 Schedule correct at time of printing. For updates contact the Timeline – 020 7942 3900 Today’s schedule has been created exclusively by illustrator Lucie Sheridan
19:30 SAMIA MALIK E1 19:45 WILLIAM TEMPEST VFS 20:30 ONOFF PRESENTS ON/OFF
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
04 •
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Barometer It’s Toon Time Kids! R E P O R T B Y A N N A - M A RIE SOLOWIJ
GODIVA CHOCCIES A WELL-TIMED FREEBIE FRONT ROW AT CHRISTOPHER KANE THE HEARTFELT APPLAUSE FOR NICOLE FARHI’S NEW LOOK COLLECTION WOTSITS THE ULTIMATE RUBBISH CANAPE ZIPS THEY GO UP AND DOWN MISSING FAVE SHOWS DUE TO PUTTING THIS NEWSPAPER TOGETHER SECURITY DOOR FASCISTS OUTSIDE THE TOPSHOP VENUE WE’RE NOT BURGLARS, WE JUST WANT TO SIT DOWN FOR A MINUTE AND WATCH A SHOW! BOILING THERMOSTATS AT SHOW VENUES. COOL DOWN! BEING UNABLE TO BRUSH OUR TEETH, OR PUT ON OUR PJS AT 4AM DUE TO HOTEL-ROOM CONFUSION
Now that cartoons have grown up (Persepolis and the Watchmen movie that debuts this June, for example), retreating into an unreal world has become the perfect refuge for adults who want to stay young. Connect that lust for youth with its natural stablemate – beauty – and you get cartoon-inspired hair and make-up references popping up at the shows. At Betty Jackson, Olive Oyl was the pin-up girl that dictated the beauty theme. “We found this dummy head with just a pretty little mouth painted on, so that’s where the idea began,” said makeup artist Sam Bryant backstage yesterday. Crescent-shaped eye shadow in navy-blue and that neat mouth shape – achieved using three shades of lipstick layered on – worn with slicked-down, sideparted hair twisted into a chignon at the back, completed the I’m Popeye’s girlfriend look. More caricatures appeared at Charles Anastase, in the guise of a Victorian doll’s face with paintedon black hearts decorating the cheeks and lips of one model with kiss-curled hair. Meanwhile, AnnSofie Back’s muse appeared to be
ILLUSTRATION BY CORAL MEADES
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
• 05
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Fashion Life Support REPOR T BY JESSIE BRINTON
It’s all very well the designers, stylists and models getting the standing ovations at fashion week, but there’s an army of unsung fashion heroes out there keeping the riffraff at bay and our hair smart. Ever wondered how we look to them? “I think fashion week is a clever marketing move,” said Paul, a security guy at the tents. “I love D&G, but it’s just a dream! Well, I have a suit. Mostly I wear T-shirts, jeans and, er, shoes.” Sadly Wayne,
long-time head of security for the tents, declined to comment (“It could be taken out of context”), but the girls at Toni & Guy (“It’s stressful but we love it!”) reported big bouncy blow-outs to have been a major direction for fashion week so far. There was some confusion among the drivers of the Renaultsponsored cars about how much celebrities paid to sit on the front row. The question was: did celebs get a discounted rate? I found
Marjorie, a stalwart of Miss Sixty and Topshop, checking the loos at Aquascutum. Thoughts on fashion week? “Well, everyone’s very tall.” A sentiment backed up by Sean, the operations manager at the Christopher Kane show. “I like fashion,” he said. “I like designer clothes – Hugo Boss, Paul Smith and Oliver Sweeney are my favourites. Fashion week people? Well, they’re, how shall I put it? Cosmopolitan?”
garment. Felder Felder also featured what looks set to be autumn/ winter ’09’s jacket of choice. “I love that they get better the older they get,” says Annette Felder, who also admitted to owning 50 such loveworn jackets. It’s this lived-in quality that’s exciting Mulberry’s creative director Emma Hill, too. She remembers stealing her brother’s biker to slip over her prom dress as a teenager, and has translated this memory
into a boyfriend-fit biker and cracked-leather shearling version. “The inspiration was a girl getting onto the back of her boyfriend’s motorbike,” says Hill. Looks like, this season, the rest of us will be hitching a ride, too.
Biker Groove REPORT BY LAUREN COCHRANE
Emily Strange, with a parade of long-black-haired girls with sooty eyelids and waxy white skin, whereas the spirit of Tank Girl, with her dreads and destroyed threads, tramped down the runway at Unique. Not just pretty faces, cartoons have legs, too, and escaped their comic-book pages to dress the windows at Lanvin’s new Mount Street boutique.
A biker jacket can be many things: a much cherished wardrobe staple, for example, a super-comforting protective layer, or simply a masculine garment that adds edge to any girly outfit. This Fashion Week, there were bikers to suit all sorts. Cropped at Twenty8Twelve, shearling-trimmed at Christopher Kane and even crombie versions at Armand Basi One – where Markus Lupfer based his entire collection on the cult
Mulberry’s autumn/winter ’09 collection 10 minute presentations are today at 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm at Mulberry showrooms
Stars In Their Eyes INTER VIEW BY SARAH MO W E R
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y TA R A D A R B Y
Peter Pilotto seem to have burst onto the scene, but that’s not the whole story How can you tell when a new designer has exploded onto the fashion radar? Quick answer: only six months after their first LFW show you start seeing their clothes being worn by lots of women. That’s what’s happened to Peter Pilotto – and not just on the backs of the likes of Rihanna, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Anouk Lepere, but real and classy women who have nothing to do with celebrity. What Pilotto fans have in common is that they’re thrilled by the discovery of a ‘secret’: a label that delivers bursts of modern print, draped into ultra-flattering dresses and tops, that don’t demand to be worn by a size-eight model to look fantastic. “In a time of sombreness it gives us a shot of energy,” says Averyl Oates, buying director of Harvey Nichols. “I love the cool prints mixed with clever draping – which makes for such an easy, but sexy, silhouette.” Pilotto looks slightly stunned by the way he keeps seeing people about in his summer collection, with its multicoloured patterns of mineral deposits and splashes of red and beige. “It’s really exciting to see it on all kinds of people, worn in different ways,” he says. “Yeah, it’s great,” Chris de Vos, Pilotto’s partner, adds. “We never know what to say when journalists ask us that question: ‘Who do you think of when you design?’ It’s not like that for us. I always think we have a more Belgian mentality.” Pilotto is half-Austrian, half-Italian, De Vos half-Belgian, half-Peruvian. “We met at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2000. I was trying to decide between fashion and graphics, and Chris between architecture and fashion.” Luckily for Pilotto’s growing following, they decided on fashion, splitting their responsibilities along the lines of their personal obsessions. “I push the print, and Chris pushes shapes,” Pilotto says. That may be a ‘Belgian’ way of designing (think of the broad, inclusive appeal of Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, or Martin Margiela, and there’s a connection), but Peter Pilotto is definitely a London-grown
phenomenon. “London has really made this possible for us,” says Pilotto, who works with De Vos in a free studio space provided by the Centre For Fashion Enterprise (CFE) in Mare Street, East London, where they share sampling facilities and the invaluable business mentoring provided by the on-site business expert Jason Caine, with other CFE-scheme designers. Since they won the British Fashion Council’s New Generation sponsorship last year, they’ve also been showing on the London runway, apparently breaking to visibility from nowhere. That, however, is not quite the way it’s happened. What probably makes Peter Pilotto more interesting, and more likely to be able to succeed, is the fact that they have actually grown gradually from behind the scenes. Although Pilotto and De Vos were friends at college in Antwerp, they didn’t join forces in business until 2007. Until that point, Pilotto had been putting on small, off-schedule presentations in Paris, while De Vos worked at Vivienne Westwood. Even before they gained much press attention, though, smart buyers were on their case. Bridget Cosgrave of Matches – one of the most influential stores in the UK – was an early adopter, thus catapulting Pilotto into the same frame as the international collections she buys. That vote of confidence – and that of Net-A-Porter.com, Harvey Nichols, Liberty, Dover Street Market, Barneys New York and Colette in Paris, which have come since – gradually put Pilotto on a footing where they have proved themselves as a duo who delivers. All this, even before fashion editors started to go mad over them. So what now? Putting the finishing touches to their winter collection, Pilotto and De Vos are scheming up more of the intriguing scientificbased, computer-manipulated print action Pilotto-wearers already love. And this time, they say, they’re inspired by the Big Bang. Peter Pilotto is showing tomorrow at 12.15pm
For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow
Farhi Out!
Opening Sevigny
REPOR T BY JESSIE BRINTON
REPOR T BY LUCIE GREENE
A Midas touch moment backstage at Richard Nicoll’s autumn/winter ’09 runway show. Photography by Anna Bauer ADVERTORIAL
May Fair Fashion Moment 2. THE M AY FA I R B A R F I R E P L A C E
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA BAUER
An overwhelmed Nicole Farhi greeted the assembled press and buyers who swarmed backstage to congratulate her after a stellar show. “It’s a totally different approach… it’s fresh,” said Farhi, who was clearly excited by the response. “Our whole attitude was different.” And indeed it was. Her first with a new design team on board, the collection of embellished coats with Yeti sleeves, cropped sequin evening jackets and rose-bud-print dresses with triple puffed sleeves
Urban, sophisticated, spirited, the perfect mix of classic and avant-garde.
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Official hotel of London Fashion Week
%ZEMPEFPI JVSQ WIPIGXIH ;EMXVSWI 4PERIX 3VKERMG ;LSPI *SSHW 1EVOIX MRHITIRHIRX LIEPXL JSSH WXSVIW ERH TLEVQEGMIW 8S PIEVR QSVI ZMWMX [[[ [IPIHE GS YO
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y C AT WA L K I N G . C O M
R E P O R T B Y B E C K Y D AV I E S
Overheard
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y A L I S TA I R G U Y
fused Eighties opulence and Forties austerity in equal measures (think Blade Runner, Forties screen sirens and a touch of Eighties Antony Price thrown in for good measure). But in spite of the overt fashion references, this was a collection that Farhi made all her own. “It was sexy and directional,” agreed Lambert & Associates fashion consultant Florence Torrens after the show. “But there was still a solidness underpinning the collection that is classically Nicole.”
REPORT BY CAT CALLENDER
“It’s sick to wear heels on a Sunday” “That’s your dog? I thought it was your coat” “I love a good orthopaedic shoe”
It was natural and right that superduper stylist Edward Enninful should celebrate his birthday backstage at the Aquascutum show, which he styled yesterday. But what was he planning to do later? “A little dinner for 40 at my friend Carlo’s restaurant, Automat. Then around 11.30pm, we will open it up to the whole of London.” Obviously a man with so many important friends in fashion could expect some special gifts. “Well, I haven’t opened most of my presents yet, as I left home so early, but
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
Daisy Lowe gave me some Diptyque candles and Jessica Stam gave me some chocolates. And my partner gave me a Genius, because I love gadgets. I’m sure I’ll get loads more though.” And what about cake? Trust Enninful to have that covered, too. “Laura Pascale – that famous model from the Sixties and who was in the show – has baked me a vanilla sponge surprise.” And what birthday are we celebrating, Edward? He didn’t need to answer. Twenty-one today, of course!
Mind the Gap
Chloe Sevigny hit the capital yesterday, to launch a brand-new menswear line, for men and women, for New York store Opening Ceremony. “A lot of my girlfriends wear menswear,” said Chloe, surrounded by her ‘kids’, an achingly cool gang of Londoners modelling the preppy, unisex collection
packed with quirky touches – such as pink lumberjack shirts, woollen long johns, high-waisted pleat-top trousers and a rockabilly fun shoe collaboration with Bass. “When I first launched a womenswear line, all my boyfriends were, like, ‘What about us?’ Now they can join in the fun, too.”
“Er, excuse me, you’re sitting on my hand” “Did you just fart on the front row?”
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
In the spirit of Blue Peter’s here’s one I made earlier, stylist Lucy Ewing solved a style conundrum backstage at Betty Jackson yesterday. “If your hair is tied back and you’re wearing a jacket with big shoulder pads, you need a little something (or a big something) to balance that look out.” Cue accessories designer Charlotte Good’s huge curlicue drop-earrings. Crafted out of acidbright shoe laces threaded through with electrical wire, Good’s statement lobe sculptures offset the new exaggerated shoulder silhouette. Photography by catwalking.com
04 •
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Barometer It’s Toon Time Kids! R E P O R T B Y A N N A - M A RIE SOLOWIJ
GODIVA CHOCCIES A WELL-TIMED FREEBIE FRONT ROW AT CHRISTOPHER KANE THE HEARTFELT APPLAUSE FOR NICOLE FARHI’S NEW LOOK COLLECTION WOTSITS THE ULTIMATE RUBBISH CANAPE ZIPS THEY GO UP AND DOWN MISSING FAVE SHOWS DUE TO PUTTING THIS NEWSPAPER TOGETHER SECURITY DOOR FASCISTS OUTSIDE THE TOPSHOP VENUE WE’RE NOT BURGLARS, WE JUST WANT TO SIT DOWN FOR A MINUTE AND WATCH A SHOW! BOILING THERMOSTATS AT SHOW VENUES. COOL DOWN! BEING UNABLE TO BRUSH OUR TEETH, OR PUT ON OUR PJS AT 4AM DUE TO HOTEL-ROOM CONFUSION
Now that cartoons have grown up (Persepolis and the Watchmen movie that debuts this June, for example), retreating into an unreal world has become the perfect refuge for adults who want to stay young. Connect that lust for youth with its natural stablemate – beauty – and you get cartoon-inspired hair and make-up references popping up at the shows. At Betty Jackson, Olive Oyl was the pin-up girl that dictated the beauty theme. “We found this dummy head with just a pretty little mouth painted on, so that’s where the idea began,” said makeup artist Sam Bryant backstage yesterday. Crescent-shaped eye shadow in navy-blue and that neat mouth shape – achieved using three shades of lipstick layered on – worn with slicked-down, sideparted hair twisted into a chignon at the back, completed the I’m Popeye’s girlfriend look. More caricatures appeared at Charles Anastase, in the guise of a Victorian doll’s face with paintedon black hearts decorating the cheeks and lips of one model with kiss-curled hair. Meanwhile, AnnSofie Back’s muse appeared to be
ILLUSTRATION BY CORAL MEADES
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
• 05
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Fashion Life Support REPOR T BY JESSIE BRINTON
It’s all very well the designers, stylists and models getting the standing ovations at fashion week, but there’s an army of unsung fashion heroes out there keeping the riffraff at bay and our hair smart. Ever wondered how we look to them? “I think fashion week is a clever marketing move,” said Paul, a security guy at the tents. “I love D&G, but it’s just a dream! Well, I have a suit. Mostly I wear T-shirts, jeans and, er, shoes.” Sadly Wayne,
long-time head of security for the tents, declined to comment (“It could be taken out of context”), but the girls at Toni & Guy (“It’s stressful but we love it!”) reported big bouncy blow-outs to have been a major direction for fashion week so far. There was some confusion among the drivers of the Renaultsponsored cars about how much celebrities paid to sit on the front row. The question was: did celebs get a discounted rate? I found
Marjorie, a stalwart of Miss Sixty and Topshop, checking the loos at Aquascutum. Thoughts on fashion week? “Well, everyone’s very tall.” A sentiment backed up by Sean, the operations manager at the Christopher Kane show. “I like fashion,” he said. “I like designer clothes – Hugo Boss, Paul Smith and Oliver Sweeney are my favourites. Fashion week people? Well, they’re, how shall I put it? Cosmopolitan?”
garment. Felder Felder also featured what looks set to be autumn/ winter ’09’s jacket of choice. “I love that they get better the older they get,” says Annette Felder, who also admitted to owning 50 such loveworn jackets. It’s this lived-in quality that’s exciting Mulberry’s creative director Emma Hill, too. She remembers stealing her brother’s biker to slip over her prom dress as a teenager, and has translated this memory
into a boyfriend-fit biker and cracked-leather shearling version. “The inspiration was a girl getting onto the back of her boyfriend’s motorbike,” says Hill. Looks like, this season, the rest of us will be hitching a ride, too.
Biker Groove REPORT BY LAUREN COCHRANE
Emily Strange, with a parade of long-black-haired girls with sooty eyelids and waxy white skin, whereas the spirit of Tank Girl, with her dreads and destroyed threads, tramped down the runway at Unique. Not just pretty faces, cartoons have legs, too, and escaped their comic-book pages to dress the windows at Lanvin’s new Mount Street boutique.
A biker jacket can be many things: a much cherished wardrobe staple, for example, a super-comforting protective layer, or simply a masculine garment that adds edge to any girly outfit. This Fashion Week, there were bikers to suit all sorts. Cropped at Twenty8Twelve, shearling-trimmed at Christopher Kane and even crombie versions at Armand Basi One – where Markus Lupfer based his entire collection on the cult
Mulberry’s autumn/winter ’09 collection 10 minute presentations are today at 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm at Mulberry showrooms
Stars In Their Eyes INTER VIEW BY SARAH MO W E R
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y TA R A D A R B Y
Peter Pilotto seem to have burst onto the scene, but that’s not the whole story How can you tell when a new designer has exploded onto the fashion radar? Quick answer: only six months after their first LFW show you start seeing their clothes being worn by lots of women. That’s what’s happened to Peter Pilotto – and not just on the backs of the likes of Rihanna, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Anouk Lepere, but real and classy women who have nothing to do with celebrity. What Pilotto fans have in common is that they’re thrilled by the discovery of a ‘secret’: a label that delivers bursts of modern print, draped into ultra-flattering dresses and tops, that don’t demand to be worn by a size-eight model to look fantastic. “In a time of sombreness it gives us a shot of energy,” says Averyl Oates, buying director of Harvey Nichols. “I love the cool prints mixed with clever draping – which makes for such an easy, but sexy, silhouette.” Pilotto looks slightly stunned by the way he keeps seeing people about in his summer collection, with its multicoloured patterns of mineral deposits and splashes of red and beige. “It’s really exciting to see it on all kinds of people, worn in different ways,” he says. “Yeah, it’s great,” Chris de Vos, Pilotto’s partner, adds. “We never know what to say when journalists ask us that question: ‘Who do you think of when you design?’ It’s not like that for us. I always think we have a more Belgian mentality.” Pilotto is half-Austrian, half-Italian, De Vos half-Belgian, half-Peruvian. “We met at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2000. I was trying to decide between fashion and graphics, and Chris between architecture and fashion.” Luckily for Pilotto’s growing following, they decided on fashion, splitting their responsibilities along the lines of their personal obsessions. “I push the print, and Chris pushes shapes,” Pilotto says. That may be a ‘Belgian’ way of designing (think of the broad, inclusive appeal of Dries van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, or Martin Margiela, and there’s a connection), but Peter Pilotto is definitely a London-grown
phenomenon. “London has really made this possible for us,” says Pilotto, who works with De Vos in a free studio space provided by the Centre For Fashion Enterprise (CFE) in Mare Street, East London, where they share sampling facilities and the invaluable business mentoring provided by the on-site business expert Jason Caine, with other CFE-scheme designers. Since they won the British Fashion Council’s New Generation sponsorship last year, they’ve also been showing on the London runway, apparently breaking to visibility from nowhere. That, however, is not quite the way it’s happened. What probably makes Peter Pilotto more interesting, and more likely to be able to succeed, is the fact that they have actually grown gradually from behind the scenes. Although Pilotto and De Vos were friends at college in Antwerp, they didn’t join forces in business until 2007. Until that point, Pilotto had been putting on small, off-schedule presentations in Paris, while De Vos worked at Vivienne Westwood. Even before they gained much press attention, though, smart buyers were on their case. Bridget Cosgrave of Matches – one of the most influential stores in the UK – was an early adopter, thus catapulting Pilotto into the same frame as the international collections she buys. That vote of confidence – and that of Net-A-Porter.com, Harvey Nichols, Liberty, Dover Street Market, Barneys New York and Colette in Paris, which have come since – gradually put Pilotto on a footing where they have proved themselves as a duo who delivers. All this, even before fashion editors started to go mad over them. So what now? Putting the finishing touches to their winter collection, Pilotto and De Vos are scheming up more of the intriguing scientificbased, computer-manipulated print action Pilotto-wearers already love. And this time, they say, they’re inspired by the Big Bang. Peter Pilotto is showing tomorrow at 12.15pm
For He’s a Jolly Good Fellow
Farhi Out!
Opening Sevigny
REPOR T BY JESSIE BRINTON
REPOR T BY LUCIE GREENE
A Midas touch moment backstage at Richard Nicoll’s autumn/winter ’09 runway show. Photography by Anna Bauer ADVERTORIAL
May Fair Fashion Moment 2. THE M AY FA I R B A R F I R E P L A C E
7YTTSVXMRK XLI 1SHIP 7ERGXYEV] JSV XLI WIGSRH WIEWSR
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA BAUER
An overwhelmed Nicole Farhi greeted the assembled press and buyers who swarmed backstage to congratulate her after a stellar show. “It’s a totally different approach… it’s fresh,” said Farhi, who was clearly excited by the response. “Our whole attitude was different.” And indeed it was. Her first with a new design team on board, the collection of embellished coats with Yeti sleeves, cropped sequin evening jackets and rose-bud-print dresses with triple puffed sleeves
Urban, sophisticated, spirited, the perfect mix of classic and avant-garde.
7L 'P SVX P 4V EWWMG MWXIH =I SHYG &IE JSV &I EV X SJ YX] EY XL X] I %[ 9/ EVH W
;IPIHE 7OMR *SSH MW E REXYVEP RSYVMWLMRK ERH L]HVEXMRK XVIEXQIRX JSV XLI [LSPI FSH] 1EHI XSHE] EW MX [EW ]IEVW EKS [MXL SVKERMG TERW] VSWIQEV] GLEQSQMPI ERH GEPIRHYPE -X¸W NYWX [LEX ]SYV WOMR LEW FIIR [EMXMRK JSV -X¸W REXYVEPP] ;IPIHE
Official hotel of London Fashion Week
%ZEMPEFPI JVSQ WIPIGXIH ;EMXVSWI 4PERIX 3VKERMG ;LSPI *SSHW 1EVOIX MRHITIRHIRX LIEPXL JSSH WXSVIW ERH TLEVQEGMIW 8S PIEVR QSVI ZMWMX [[[ [IPIHE GS YO
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y C AT WA L K I N G . C O M
R E P O R T B Y B E C K Y D AV I E S
Overheard
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y A L I S TA I R G U Y
fused Eighties opulence and Forties austerity in equal measures (think Blade Runner, Forties screen sirens and a touch of Eighties Antony Price thrown in for good measure). But in spite of the overt fashion references, this was a collection that Farhi made all her own. “It was sexy and directional,” agreed Lambert & Associates fashion consultant Florence Torrens after the show. “But there was still a solidness underpinning the collection that is classically Nicole.”
REPORT BY CAT CALLENDER
“It’s sick to wear heels on a Sunday” “That’s your dog? I thought it was your coat” “I love a good orthopaedic shoe”
It was natural and right that superduper stylist Edward Enninful should celebrate his birthday backstage at the Aquascutum show, which he styled yesterday. But what was he planning to do later? “A little dinner for 40 at my friend Carlo’s restaurant, Automat. Then around 11.30pm, we will open it up to the whole of London.” Obviously a man with so many important friends in fashion could expect some special gifts. “Well, I haven’t opened most of my presents yet, as I left home so early, but
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
Daisy Lowe gave me some Diptyque candles and Jessica Stam gave me some chocolates. And my partner gave me a Genius, because I love gadgets. I’m sure I’ll get loads more though.” And what about cake? Trust Enninful to have that covered, too. “Laura Pascale – that famous model from the Sixties and who was in the show – has baked me a vanilla sponge surprise.” And what birthday are we celebrating, Edward? He didn’t need to answer. Twenty-one today, of course!
Mind the Gap
Chloe Sevigny hit the capital yesterday, to launch a brand-new menswear line, for men and women, for New York store Opening Ceremony. “A lot of my girlfriends wear menswear,” said Chloe, surrounded by her ‘kids’, an achingly cool gang of Londoners modelling the preppy, unisex collection
packed with quirky touches – such as pink lumberjack shirts, woollen long johns, high-waisted pleat-top trousers and a rockabilly fun shoe collaboration with Bass. “When I first launched a womenswear line, all my boyfriends were, like, ‘What about us?’ Now they can join in the fun, too.”
“Er, excuse me, you’re sitting on my hand” “Did you just fart on the front row?”
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
In the spirit of Blue Peter’s here’s one I made earlier, stylist Lucy Ewing solved a style conundrum backstage at Betty Jackson yesterday. “If your hair is tied back and you’re wearing a jacket with big shoulder pads, you need a little something (or a big something) to balance that look out.” Cue accessories designer Charlotte Good’s huge curlicue drop-earrings. Crafted out of acidbright shoe laces threaded through with electrical wire, Good’s statement lobe sculptures offset the new exaggerated shoulder silhouette. Photography by catwalking.com
06 •
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Tolula A d
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
e k a T a
eyemi Ben Grim
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LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
es and J
ade Parfi
B
k a re
tt Mark Ele
PARTIES ELEY KISHIMOTO/ EASTPAK PARTY & MAC COCKTAIL SOIREE
y Wakako Kis
FASHIONABLE FUN AND GAMES BROUGHT TO YOU BY POP-UP PUBLICATION RUBBISH MAGAZINE. WWW.RUBBISHMAG.COM himoto Nick Ho
ult
Designer Dish
PHOTOGRAPHY BY A L I S TA I R G U Y
Mark Eley’s Kani Nabe I spend my life in the kitchen As soon as I get home I’m cooking – unless I order a takeaway, but even then I’m in the kitchen waiting in anticipation. For Japanese, Ichiban is very popular in our house.
Mark Eley, he of Eley Kishimoto, showed yesterday in the BFC tents
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I used to cook Joe Strummer’s breakfast every morning In the early Nineties I was a chef at the Portobello Cafe. It was a way to supplement my life as a fashion student. My favourite dishes to make were soups, vegetarian dish of the day and fish pies. I cooked a great deal of lamb chops for myself when I was a teenager growing up in Wales.
I love cooking for big groups Lunchtime in our design/studio is often 10 of us sitting around the table on the top floor, eating and chatting. As a family we’ve done lots of campfire meals, which are always great fun. Normally there is rice, salad and fish with wine for dinner, and a cooked breakfast with a mug of hot tea in the mornings.
ger NS SPO
OR
ED
BY
If Eley Kishimoto was a dish, it would be a bowl of rice Nourishing, easy, simple, clean and dependable.
le Free Range Liquid Egg White
Cooking is a great analogy for our approach to design When you make a stock and you know you need to add something else to give it that extra flavour, it’s the
Fat Free • Cholesterol Free
Jo a
nd T
illy
d Wo o
Available in selected Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Booths and via Ocado
A D V E R T O R IAL
Kani Nabe, or かに鍋, is one of my favourite things to cook on a wintery day I first tried it at my family home in Takarazuka, Japan, 18 years ago, and I was in heaven. You can make three meals out of the same dish, so it’s very economical. First it’s a soup, then it’s a rice-based porridge. Finally, Wakako uses the kombu and makes a salad with other ingredients, to eat with plain rice the following day. Our new collection is called ‘Jet Set Masala’ Sounds tasty, don’t you think? To view Mark Eley’s Kani Nabe recipe, and to see more behind the scenes photos, go to: www.dailyrubbish.co.uk Words by Jenny Dyson Photography by Valerie Phillips
Fashion etiquette BROUGHT TO YOU BY COL I N WA X M A N
Editor’s Choice
same with designing a collection. Fashion and food both involve an assortment of ingredients, conducted to create something unique and individual with a personal touch.
“Two days into LFW and, between shows at the Topshop venue, I am forced by my team into a vegetarian restaurant on Marylebone High Street. If I bond with them now, at least I can get them to work until 3am on no extra pay. Apparently my usual table at Claridge’s was not available, and I have decided to be gracious and eat with the masses – even if it means picking at tofu. “My moan of the day is a certain front-row imposter. Darling, no-one knows who you are, or what you do.
I L L U S T R AT I O N M AT T B L E A S E
Just go home. A celebrity with nothing to do and no reason for being here is just not very credit crunch. I overheard her saying she could write a story for a US magazine... send me your copy, honey, and we might think about a standing ticket for next season.”
Colin Waxman is a PR guru and fashion strategist. He shall be blogging sporadically for www. RUBBISHmag.com for the rest of his fashion career, which, one can only assume, will last for quite some time given his magnitude. Stay tuned.
Overheard!
Right Said Fred
Jack Black rocking out in The Daily office.
REPORT BY LUCIE GREENE
Who better to edit the fabulous spring/summer ’09 collection in store now at H&M than the fashion editors themselves?
2. PAULA REED, STYLE DIRECTOR, GRAZIA
My absolute favourite is the wide-trouser-and-long-cardi look. I love a classic with a slouch. Those wide trousers are stunning over a stacked heel, and the cardigan with pushed up sleeves gives it some kicked back attitude. The flash of purple is also a genius way to amp up those neutrals. Loving anything amethyst at the moment. Beige jacket, £34.99. Trousers, £34.99 H&M Stockists: 020 7323 2211, or visit www.hm.com TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
B IANCA WE N DT
I L L U S T R AT I O N K I L A C A R R - I N C E
DE S IG N & ART DI R ECTION
Fresh ‘artisan’ breads, from London’s trendiest bakery, are now delivered by Ocado along with your weekly groceries. GAIL’S bakery supplies nine of its bestselling loaves, including scrumptious potatoes & rosemary sourdough to www.odaco.com. Treat yourself.
Stick Fred Butler up your fashion radar The accessories and prop designer won NEWGEN sponsorship this season, and has created a riotous range of crazy bright court-jester-style pieces made from elaborately woven ribbons, sequins, and painted bells. Rocking.
B IANCAWE N DT.COM
LFW’S THE DAILY CREDITS Created by Jenny and the Cat Club EDITORS Jenny Dyson & Cat Callender MANAGING EDITOR Jana Dowling DESIGNERS George Wu & Bianca Wendt CHIEF SUB Vicky Willan DISTRIBUTION & MANTERN George Ryan REPORTERS Jessie Brinton, Becky Davies, Lauren Cochrane, Lucie Greene BEAUTY CORRESPONDENT Anna-Marie Solowij STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Anna Bauer & Alistair Guy
Beauty Spot: Musings on Muses REPORT BY ANNA-MARIE SOLOWIJ
Listening in on the backstage chatter of hair and make-up teams is like observing some kind of shared cultural shorthand, that only really makes sense in their rarefied world. The chief feature of these conversations is the subject of the women, and sometimes the men, who provide the three-dimensional muse upon which they can concoct their visual tales. “She’s Natalie Portman in V for Vendetta…”, “Think Ingrid Bergman in a Forties wartime movie…”, or even “I’m
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Catherine Bullman, Kila Car-Ince, Gabrielle Medina PRINTED BY THE GUARDIAN with special thanks to Richard J. Thompson
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA BAUER
channeling Daryl Hannah as Pris in Blade Runner.” The references are frequently hyphenated (“Coco Chanel-meetsSid Vicious”), or extrapolated beyond all sense. But they always offer some sort of creative lifeline for the teams of make-up and hair assistants, who cling desperately to any reference to help them get the look right for the runway. A ‘muse’ is all they need to pinpoint, and then reproduce, the exact details – the Greta Garbo eyebrow
shape here, a Biba-esque lip there – that will resonate with the audience so that they, too, can parrot the look. Occasionally, a ‘muse’ can be used in the negative, a warning of how not to do it. For example: “She’s young. I mean she’s Lolita young.” There must be few creative spirits brave enough to work without such a useful reference as a muse. Perhaps, for them, it’s a case of no muse is good muse. Alek Wek backstage at Aquascutum
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
PUBLISHED BY RUBBISH INK LTD www.rubbishmag.com THANKS TO ALL OUR PAPER GIRLS, you know who you are! Thanks also to… Red Bull, their Mini’s gave wings to The Daily team! Climate Cars for transport support The May Fair Hotel for providing us with a deluxe pop-up production office Ocado for providing healthly sustenance for the ever-snacking team
06 •
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
Tolula A d
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
e k a T a
eyemi Ben Grim
• 07
LONDON, MONDAY 23 RD FEBRUARY 2009
es and J
ade Parfi
B
k a re
tt Mark Ele
PARTIES ELEY KISHIMOTO/ EASTPAK PARTY & MAC COCKTAIL SOIREE
y Wakako Kis
FASHIONABLE FUN AND GAMES BROUGHT TO YOU BY POP-UP PUBLICATION RUBBISH MAGAZINE. WWW.RUBBISHMAG.COM himoto Nick Ho
ult
Designer Dish
PHOTOGRAPHY BY A L I S TA I R G U Y
Mark Eley’s Kani Nabe I spend my life in the kitchen As soon as I get home I’m cooking – unless I order a takeaway, but even then I’m in the kitchen waiting in anticipation. For Japanese, Ichiban is very popular in our house.
Mark Eley, he of Eley Kishimoto, showed yesterday in the BFC tents
e Marn
Cam
Char ie Joy V
lot
ock te St
dale
bac
ea kstag
t Jae
illa L
owth
dL er an
ibert
y Ro
ss
r B ro
wn
I used to cook Joe Strummer’s breakfast every morning In the early Nineties I was a chef at the Portobello Cafe. It was a way to supplement my life as a fashion student. My favourite dishes to make were soups, vegetarian dish of the day and fish pies. I cooked a great deal of lamb chops for myself when I was a teenager growing up in Wales.
I love cooking for big groups Lunchtime in our design/studio is often 10 of us sitting around the table on the top floor, eating and chatting. As a family we’ve done lots of campfire meals, which are always great fun. Normally there is rice, salad and fish with wine for dinner, and a cooked breakfast with a mug of hot tea in the mornings.
ger NS SPO
OR
ED
BY
If Eley Kishimoto was a dish, it would be a bowl of rice Nourishing, easy, simple, clean and dependable.
le Free Range Liquid Egg White
Cooking is a great analogy for our approach to design When you make a stock and you know you need to add something else to give it that extra flavour, it’s the
Fat Free • Cholesterol Free
Jo a
nd T
illy
d Wo o
Available in selected Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Booths and via Ocado
A D V E R T O R IAL
Kani Nabe, or かに鍋, is one of my favourite things to cook on a wintery day I first tried it at my family home in Takarazuka, Japan, 18 years ago, and I was in heaven. You can make three meals out of the same dish, so it’s very economical. First it’s a soup, then it’s a rice-based porridge. Finally, Wakako uses the kombu and makes a salad with other ingredients, to eat with plain rice the following day. Our new collection is called ‘Jet Set Masala’ Sounds tasty, don’t you think? To view Mark Eley’s Kani Nabe recipe, and to see more behind the scenes photos, go to: www.dailyrubbish.co.uk Words by Jenny Dyson Photography by Valerie Phillips
Fashion etiquette BROUGHT TO YOU BY COL I N WA X M A N
Editor’s Choice
same with designing a collection. Fashion and food both involve an assortment of ingredients, conducted to create something unique and individual with a personal touch.
“Two days into LFW and, between shows at the Topshop venue, I am forced by my team into a vegetarian restaurant on Marylebone High Street. If I bond with them now, at least I can get them to work until 3am on no extra pay. Apparently my usual table at Claridge’s was not available, and I have decided to be gracious and eat with the masses – even if it means picking at tofu. “My moan of the day is a certain front-row imposter. Darling, no-one knows who you are, or what you do.
I L L U S T R AT I O N M AT T B L E A S E
Just go home. A celebrity with nothing to do and no reason for being here is just not very credit crunch. I overheard her saying she could write a story for a US magazine... send me your copy, honey, and we might think about a standing ticket for next season.”
Colin Waxman is a PR guru and fashion strategist. He shall be blogging sporadically for www. RUBBISHmag.com for the rest of his fashion career, which, one can only assume, will last for quite some time given his magnitude. Stay tuned.
Overheard!
Right Said Fred
Jack Black rocking out in The Daily office.
REPORT BY LUCIE GREENE
Who better to edit the fabulous spring/summer ’09 collection in store now at H&M than the fashion editors themselves?
2. PAULA REED, STYLE DIRECTOR, GRAZIA
My absolute favourite is the wide-trouser-and-long-cardi look. I love a classic with a slouch. Those wide trousers are stunning over a stacked heel, and the cardigan with pushed up sleeves gives it some kicked back attitude. The flash of purple is also a genius way to amp up those neutrals. Loving anything amethyst at the moment. Beige jacket, £34.99. Trousers, £34.99 H&M Stockists: 020 7323 2211, or visit www.hm.com TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
B IANCA WE N DT
I L L U S T R AT I O N K I L A C A R R - I N C E
DE S IG N & ART DI R ECTION
Fresh ‘artisan’ breads, from London’s trendiest bakery, are now delivered by Ocado along with your weekly groceries. GAIL’S bakery supplies nine of its bestselling loaves, including scrumptious potatoes & rosemary sourdough to www.odaco.com. Treat yourself.
Stick Fred Butler up your fashion radar The accessories and prop designer won NEWGEN sponsorship this season, and has created a riotous range of crazy bright court-jester-style pieces made from elaborately woven ribbons, sequins, and painted bells. Rocking.
B IANCAWE N DT.COM
LFW’S THE DAILY CREDITS Created by Jenny and the Cat Club EDITORS Jenny Dyson & Cat Callender MANAGING EDITOR Jana Dowling DESIGNERS George Wu & Bianca Wendt CHIEF SUB Vicky Willan DISTRIBUTION & MANTERN George Ryan REPORTERS Jessie Brinton, Becky Davies, Lauren Cochrane, Lucie Greene BEAUTY CORRESPONDENT Anna-Marie Solowij STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS Anna Bauer & Alistair Guy
Beauty Spot: Musings on Muses REPORT BY ANNA-MARIE SOLOWIJ
Listening in on the backstage chatter of hair and make-up teams is like observing some kind of shared cultural shorthand, that only really makes sense in their rarefied world. The chief feature of these conversations is the subject of the women, and sometimes the men, who provide the three-dimensional muse upon which they can concoct their visual tales. “She’s Natalie Portman in V for Vendetta…”, “Think Ingrid Bergman in a Forties wartime movie…”, or even “I’m
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Catherine Bullman, Kila Car-Ince, Gabrielle Medina PRINTED BY THE GUARDIAN with special thanks to Richard J. Thompson
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANNA BAUER
channeling Daryl Hannah as Pris in Blade Runner.” The references are frequently hyphenated (“Coco Chanel-meetsSid Vicious”), or extrapolated beyond all sense. But they always offer some sort of creative lifeline for the teams of make-up and hair assistants, who cling desperately to any reference to help them get the look right for the runway. A ‘muse’ is all they need to pinpoint, and then reproduce, the exact details – the Greta Garbo eyebrow
shape here, a Biba-esque lip there – that will resonate with the audience so that they, too, can parrot the look. Occasionally, a ‘muse’ can be used in the negative, a warning of how not to do it. For example: “She’s young. I mean she’s Lolita young.” There must be few creative spirits brave enough to work without such a useful reference as a muse. Perhaps, for them, it’s a case of no muse is good muse. Alek Wek backstage at Aquascutum
TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM
PUBLISHED BY RUBBISH INK LTD www.rubbishmag.com THANKS TO ALL OUR PAPER GIRLS, you know who you are! Thanks also to… Red Bull, their Mini’s gave wings to The Daily team! Climate Cars for transport support The May Fair Hotel for providing us with a deluxe pop-up production office Ocado for providing healthly sustenance for the ever-snacking team
MULBERRY.COM HONG KONG PARIS NEW YORK LONDON BAYSWATER CLUTCH TO VIEW THE LONDON FASHION WEEK DAILY ONLINE GO TO WWW.LFWDAILY.COM