Tailoring: Inside a Suit

the FASHIONforum

PITTI PARTY

Twice a year, the Tuscan city of Florence, Italy welcomes 1,050 exhibitors and more than 30,000 national and international fashion industry insiders to Pitti Uomo, a trade show like no other. Staged in a 16th-century fortress, Pitti is a place to see and be seen: a promenade affectionately known as Peacock Avenue is packed with men dressed to the nines, fervently followed by an equally impressive number of photographers from magazines and websites worldwide. Espresso is sipped in equal measure to bottles of Italian beer and the quintessential cocktail, an Aperol Spritz.

At the most recent Pitti showcasing spring ’15 fashion, the world-renowned tenor Andrea Bocelli kicked the show off with an exclusive one-night performance with the Cameristi del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino that included an emotive rendition of Schubert’s Ave Maria. The next morning the Prime Minister of Italy officially opened the show, followed by a whirlwind of fashion shows and festas.

These included a Gucci museum cocktail party, a Z Zegna performance replete with acrobats and models, an Eton garden party at the Grand Hotel Villa Medici, a Brunello Cucinelli dinner at Il Giardino Torrigiani and an Ermanno Scervino presentation at the Forte Belvedere (where Kim Kardashian and Kanye West held their nuptials) with guests including... Kanye West!

Should you ever find yourself in Florence during this celebration of style, soak it all in. It’s one of the sartorial wonders of the world. — William Buckley

LOOKING GOOD

What do women want? To answer the age-old question, we surveyed 100 women and asked them to prioritize what they notice first in terms of male appearance. Not surprisingly, trumped only by good grooming and a great smile, women pay attention to what guys wear. Clearly, good clothes speak volumes about a man, followed closely by (in order of priority) his

eyes, his shoes and his watch.

To the question “I would immediately fall in love with a guy wearing ___ because ___,” we got some terrific responses. A lot of women mentioned “nice shoes” because “they indicate good taste.” “A gorgeous sportcoat” because “it exudes confidence, charm and casual sophistication…” “A cashmere sweater” because “it shows he’s able to care for something delicate and valuable: today a sweater, tomorrow a woman…” “Great smelling aftershave or cologne...” “Upscale casual clothes” because “it shows he’s relaxed and comfortable with himself…” And perhaps our favorite: “Anything that looks like he put some thought into it!” Because “dressing well is an indicator of self-confidence and a display of respect for colleagues and friends. If he puts thought into his appearance, one can assume he’ll put thought into his work and his relationships…”

Time to go shopping! — Nora McCarten

BRIGHT EYED

Just because summer is over doesn’t mean you should

ignore your eyewear. For men this fall, the Vision Council’s Eyecessorize industry report defines the major trends as simple, clean-cut square and circular shapes, colored lenses in standout shades of green and blue, and metallic and patterned accents on the bridge and arms. In addition, Eyecessorize also forecasts an increased popularity in colored frames that offer a welcome break from the standard black and tortoise options. These new takes on classic eyewear

will keep you seeing the bright side all year long. — NoraMcCarten We interviewed Sabine Le Chatelier, of Premiere Vision (the world’s leading fabric trade show) for her take on men’s spring fashion. Here’s what to expect when the weather warms up: “According to the top fabric mills, suiting fabrics will have a more casual feel for spring ’15, a trend that will influence all categories of menswear. Fabrics will feature more synthetics in the blend, creating a somewhat lustrous finish: not exactly shiny but technicalinspired in a contemporary way. Lighter colors are taking hold in suits and sportcoats: cool tones like pale grays and shades of blue. There’s also a strong linen trend in suits, but very sophisticated, a clear departure from the soft crinkled linens of yesterday. The new linens are blended with cotton or wool for a fresh modern look with a rustic touch.

“In ties, expect more non-silk styles that reinforce the casual message. In sportswear, you’ll see new sophisticated knit tops in luxury yarns, fashioned into slim T-shirts and polos that work under a suit or sportcoat. And don’t be afraid to wear prints, even florals: these are what will separate the men from the boys…” — Karen Alberg Grossman

STYLISH READS

20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Apparel Ads by Jim Heimann and Alison A. Nieder is an eyecatching retrospective of the milestones that shaped the world’s style. Creative imagery of 400 fashion advertisements from the 1900s forms a timeline of the trendsetting looks that defined the century. With text in English, French and German, 20th Century Fashion documents the inception of revered brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein and follows their development as exemplified by their ads. As the years (and the book) progress, a fullpage visual captures the mood of each decade. The beauty and individuality of the advertisements display the overarching advancements in art, print, photography and clothing designs made in the last century. Men in This Town by Giuseppe Santamaria is a uniquely presented portrayal of the modern man’s sartorial style. Through interviews and observations, Santamaria allows us to get to know a variety of creatively dressed men in their natural habitats, from New York, London and Milan to Tokyo and Sydney. Candid street shots capture the eccentric and intriguing trends of each region, taking us on a journey across the globe to explore how each culture’s traditions impact the way men dress. The Glass of Fashion, a memoir by Cecil Beaton, shares a man’s muses, influences and

Beaton became famous for his impeccable taste and discerning eye. He tells how his experiences with the luxurious likes of Dior and Chanel combined with his personal realities to sculpt his view on fashion and life. First published in 1954, The Glass of Fashion is back on the rack to inspire a new generation of fashionistas. — Louisa Blasier

encounters in the 1920s fashion world. As a portraitist and photographer of fashion’s top-notch names,