Menswear Rules

Back in the day, gentlemen seeking sartorial perfection had strict rules to follow—so many, in fact, that books were written to help them avoid embarrassing faux pas. Thankfully, the rules have relaxed, and these days well-dressed guys can rely on their intuition, their personal style and some sound suggestions from their favorite store associates. But as they say, you have to know the rules before you can break them. Here, our suggestions for upping your fashion quotient this fall.

STYLING BY JOSEPH DEACETIS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID ARKY

THE BUZZ ON BUTTONS

Sometimes, always, never: this rule tells you when to button the top, middle and bottom buttons on a threebutton suit. On two-button jackets, it’s always for the top and never for the bottom (except for sitting, when all buttons should be undone). Today’s bestselling suit is a two-button model, since its elongated V-neckline flatters almost any body type,

LAPEL LOGIC

The consensus is that wider suit lapels flatter big guys, while thinner men can get away with narrow lapels. The notch lapel, shown at right, is a go-to option since it’s forgiving to most body types. Peak lapels, shown at left, add an element of power and strength. They’re trending on both singlebreasted and double-breasted models, while shawl collars are still reserved for tuxes and dinner jackets.

SOCK

IT TO ME

Traditional menswear rules hold that socks should coordinate with your trouser, not your shoes, while contemporary sensibilities allow for a colored sock that complements something else in your outfit. Work your sock into the color scheme established by your shirt, sweater, or pocket square for a coordinated feel that leaves no detail overlooked.