12.06.2013 progress by Kimberley Jacobsz

SS14

Optimism Positivity Simplicity Youth Fun Learning

Inspire Challenge Heat Grow Excite

S S 1 4 O v e r vi e w Nostalgia Trust Simplicity Technological responsibility Youth Positivity

Gamification Hacking Editing Learning Optimism

Rio de Janiero Blessed nation Resources Hope Social Responsibility Community

Emerging affluent Luxury Female empowerment Buisness Economy Brands

T im W P ro d u T he L C hl o e

Key DRIVERS

W a lker u c t In f lu en c e L o ok e Coop e r

From life size dolls to flying saucers Tim Walker’s photography props were standing pride of place at Somerset House for Storyteller the imaginative exhibition at Somerset House.

Tim Walke

Walker’s equally mysterious, enticing and imaginative fashion photography has made him world-renowned. He plays with the world of fairy tales and dreams combining them with a considerate approach to couture to create his photographs. The exhibition included some of his finest works for brands and top publishing houses, Mulberry and Condè Nast respectively.

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r: Storyteller

er: Storyteller

Storyteller explores the ideas of childhood through his photography, as often the models are small in size compared to the props and surroundings almost in a child-like fashion. The wonder and complexity of the images are cleverly balanced and still simplistic and honest. These themes inspire the Purity phase of the Optivity trend, focusing on the childlike details and muted tones and colours. Styling of the photo shoots is quintessentially British with a traditional and yet contemporary spin with youthful and innocent detailingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. This quirky wholesome aesthetic is at the heart of the Purity phase of Optivity.

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Childhood Fun youth vision Imagination positivity

images:Tim walker-Storyteller (Somerset House) Kimberley Jacobsz

er: Storyteller

Happiness through simplicity is the Key Driver for the Purity phase and this is reflected through product design. Combining technology to really simplified design and use in every day life is key. The functions binge on products will be rejected in the future as consumers demand for simpler more efficient products stripped of excess and of unused functions. Products with raw elements and untreated materials combine with technology to create this new style. The pairing down of packaging and referring back to a more pure and honest way of creating and selling a product, this is evident in Gilletteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s packaging project. The Victorian style illustrations are used to demonstrate a nod to the past but at the same time remain contemporary with the choice of typeface, captions and alignment. These design flags are being witnessed all over the product world as consumers demand packaging be simple and at a minimum if it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t partially of wholly recyclable. Purity supports primarily a lack of frills, with ideas and products that are quirky and make senseâ&#x20AC;Ś a brilliant idea that works whilst removing any excesses.

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Design

PR OD U C T I N F L U EN C E

Images from top left row: Wireflow’, a new project by designer Arik Levy for light manufacturer VIBIA; Knot Pendant Lamp by Vitamin; Sitting Chairs by Lucas Maasen; Tax Forms project by FormNation; Birth certificates by IWANT for Icon magazine; Two dip cups by Up in the air somewhere; French Soap via Alder & Co.; Gillette; christina schou christensen, shaping fluid; Fifty Fifty Projects, Eyjafjallajökull.

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T H E LO O K

The Purity phase looks at Nostalgia and how technology helps us to archive and create a format for viewing our past. Positivity and optimism are the key features of the trend and this is translated heavily into the look of the trend. Shapes are almost childish with loose fitting and boxy style garments giving a nod back to the days when tweens would lie in fields picking daisies and

listening to The ShangriLas. Today more than ever we quest of that nostalgic life but with the aid of technological development we can create our own new nostalgic way of living, morphing the elements of old into the streamline wave of the future. In particular the Resort 2014 collections of Just Cavalli and Moschino Cheap and Chic echo this feel.They combine a kooky

IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014

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T H E LO O K

girlish vibe through the print and the mini-dresses alongside the more modern feel through details such as the contrast sleeves, large contrast lapels and boxy shoulders. The pastel palette ties in so well and makes for a brilliant visual reference for the Purity trend.

Although at a highend designer level these elements can be taken into more mid market levels as demonstrated in the range plan. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what Style. com said about these collectionsâ&#x20AC;Ś â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Candy-colored

tie-

IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014

dye swirls, daisies (both printed and embroidered), scads of macramé lace, and a graphic shift spelling out “PEACE” were dead giveaways that the hippie 1960s were the theme of the new Moschino Cheap And Chic Resort collection. Francesca Rubino and Rossella Jardini conjured up a modern flower child with crocheted maxi

dresses and bell-sleeve baby dolls that would fit right in at any of this summer’s big music festivals. Less costume-y pieces like an accordion-pleat leather skirt and wide-leg cropped trousers seemed more versatile by comparison. The free-spirited lineup was a total 180 from the label’s punk-spiked Fall runway show, but everything

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T H E LO O K

IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014

considered, we suspect the Cheap And Chic girl has always been more of a lover than an fighter, anyway.’ Style.com Roberto Cavalli’s customer is the tough-as-nails kind of girl who never leaves the house without a smudged ring of kohl around her eyes, so it was a change of pace to see the Just Cavalli

design team tap into her softer side for Resort. The new lineup achieved this fresh sense of lightness by fusing bucolic florals with Japanese art motifs—all of which were, of course, mixed up with Cavalli’s signature animal prints. ’ Style.com

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T H E LO O K

IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014

Chloe Coope Chloe Cooper, a fashion BA(Hons) student from Nottingham Trent University, showcased her final collection at Graduate Fashion Week this year. The Final Collection was developed around the idea of the ‘Retro Future: past predictions for our future development. Full of optimism and ambition, the collection has a bright, playful feel, with clean, flirty shapes and relaxed structures. There is a strong focus on innovative stitch development and combination of yarns’. The shapes were youthful and inspired by the sixties with boxy shapes and shift dresses along with the pastel palette. Chloe’s collection is a driver for the Purity phase; even down to the styling with the childlike innocent feel being emphasised with the ankle socks and sandals. Like Purity she keeps it modern with her contemporary use of textiles

and knit, the geometric prints and clashing shapes nod to the future, in Chloe’s words her ‘Retro Future’. Chloe’s collection could almost be considered as being conservative as she has high necklines and loose fit shapes, this supports the ideas of purity and minimalism. Her collection also has a particularly feminine feel to it, not only by the colour palette but also by the emphasis on the dress and the co-ordinating tops and skirts. She also infuses the retro element by having little accompanying jackets to go with the dresses; this again gives it a more 1960’s feel. On the other hand, the outfits could also be compared to a child’s dolls clothes mainly down to the simple shapes, and mix and match styling.

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T H E LO O K

r: Retro Future

olour Story

Images clockwise from top left: Fifty Fifty Projects, Eyjafjallajökull; HHD_FUN with Aaajiao – Xu Wenkai | Embedded Project; PAOLOERRICO | NOT JUST A LABEL; Lucas Maassen; Alberto Campo Baeza, casa guerrero.

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Stone Pastel Blue

ration

Grey Vivid Green

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P h ase O ne P u r i t y : C o l o u Optivity is a bright and optimistic trend with depth in its values such as learning and a consideration for design. The Purity phase looks at a more traditional and simplistic way of living to create happiness rather than happiness through gain. This is carried through into the colour palette where a more nostalgic palette is adopted through warped and muted summer shades, simple low impact colours such as stone and grey form the base colours, whilst the trend colours- also muted give the palette itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s summer warmth.

product design for the future and by Tim Walkers photography; the muted nostalgic palette is being spotted already in design and will form the structure of the Purity trend.

The childlike hues include powder and salmon pink, honey gold shades with washed out dreamy blues and ocean greens.

The palette is inspired by the colour choices in

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ABRIC Story

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Gingham Cotton Linen Floral print Images from top left clockwise: Everest textile; Maruwa; Mectex div; Liberty art fabrics; gallus; lanificio luigi ricceri.

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Synthetic Leather Acrylic Boucle Images from top left clockwise: Lanzar;; Gallus; Moden; peiti;petit;petit

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Broderie Anglaise Applique Laser cut

All images Via Lanzar Jaipar PEtit

M oo d R an g e Z oo m

RANGE PLAN

B oard e Plan

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Large lapel two layered heavyweight spring jacket

Sheer shirt with contrasting sleeves and fly opening button stand

Wide leg shorts with contrast panels and hidden clasp and zip fastening

Boxy 3/4 sleeve jacket with oversized pockets and panels. Centre back seam detail on the back

3/4 sleeved dress with contrasting sleeves. Structural shaping seams and a exposed zip down the centre back. Flute pleat opening down the centre on the skirt with contrasting fabric, boxy shape.

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Boxy shaped cropped shirt, with full length exposed zip down centre back

Elasticated waist skirt with front wrap over detail in contrasting fabric

Dress with sheer sleeves and front panel, deep V and side slits on skirt sheer piece.. Full length zip down centre back and waist seams across the back

High waisted cropped trousers with waist darts and side zip

Sleeveless dress with princess seams and skater style skirt. Keyhole opening at back and panels at the front

A rc h i A AA J I O me l y T he L

Key DRIVERS

i t ectu r e In f l u e n c e IAO y a Ate l ie r L o ok

Architecture is a key driver for the Optivity trend; the world is changing its agenda with regards to learning and the way we learn. New centres of learning (previously called libraries) are popping up all over the globe, all with the main aim of making learning engaging. You may be used to your own public library… possibly a building from the 1990’s with a distinct lack of style, maybe you can remember the musty smell of old books? And people?

Libraries are even places where the homeless tend to ‘hang’ these day’s, in principle there is nothing wrong with this but it doesn’t make the library the one of the most attractive of leisure activities. As well as the ideas of the ‘bookworm’, well that’s an ancient idea in itself. In these libraries of learning you may not even be greeted by one single book in your entire experience there. These new learning centres are at the forefront of technology and include some of the most highly anticipated technologies in the world. These centres are springing up as public libraries, in schools, hospitals, businesses and the buildings are attracting some of the worlds most formidable and talented architects who are fighting to work on these new learning hub projects.

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A R CHI T EC TU R E I N F L U E N C E

cture Design

The buildings themselves include, reflective surfaces, misplaced floors, and blurring of the traditional walls, floor and window combinations we might be used to. Merging and blurring what we deem as the norm in public buildings, Glass elevations with trees inside of the buildings are seen in the top right image, a recent re-build of a public library project. The sheer money being plunged into these projects around the world show us the up and coming importance of architecture and learning and how they can help each other.

Images from Top left clockwise: Draisci Studio at Clerkenwell Design Week 2012; Penleigh and Essendon Grammar School Senior by McBride Charles Ryan;; Elena Garro Cultural Centre by Fernanda Canales and Arquitectura; villa-f-by-hornung-jacobi Lot 2, Jardins de la Lironde by Farshid Moussavi Architecture; Alberto Campo Baeza, casa guerrero; Reflections on Health Department Building in Bilbao

Xu Wenkai Aaajiao

About Placebo - Xu Wenkai Solo Exhibition

Blog Archaeology. In the latest Placebo the stream of data flow, which engend Placebo is a new series by Xu Wenkai, which consists of well as the visual inertia and placebo eff BDSQ, HAL, Text Format and Poor Mining. Together shown with this series are works from a different series, titled Cy- Therefore this exhibition seems to be m bernetics, made by the artist in 2009 and 2010. These works and a prequel of this biography. Such st form a small documents, aiming at systematic and thorough understanding of artist’s distinct trait: examining the way of thinking, art making, expressing and artwork construction methods, and on presenting of this young and active media artist, so as to artistic conversion of artist’s know-how manifest his capability. tain fields. In Cybernetics series, the artist tries to reconsider data, the object of information technology inquiry, and comes up with an interesting and witty presentation on data’s existence, form, and perceptibility with Cloud Data, Water Measure and

A spectrogram is a time-varying spec (forming an image) that shows how th a signal varies with time. Also known a sonograms, voiceprints, or voicegram

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clouds.data project

o series, artist turns to used to identify phonetic sounds, to analyse the cries of aniders new structures, as mals; they were also used in many other fields including muffect. sic, sonar/radar, speech processing,[2] seismology, etc. The instrument that generates a spectrogram is called a spectromade up of a biography graph. tructure facilitates our ----wikipedia : on one hand, unique n the other hand, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Slitscan imaging techniques are used to create static imagw and thoughts in cer- es of time-based phenomena. In traditional film photography, slit scan images are created by exposing film as it slides past a slit-shaped aperture. In the digital realm, thin slices ctral representation[1] are extracted from a sequence of video frames, and concatehe spectral density of nated into a new image.â&#x20AC;? as spectral waterfalls, --- Golan Levin ms, spectrograms are

cture Design

Omelya Atelier

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A key reference point for Optivity is OMELYA atelier, the up and coming brand of Kostya Omelya a Ukrainian designer. Omelya’s focus is always on dresses, paying particular attention to the feminine silhouette. Oh and did we mention … he loves a hat or two. The collections are distinctly contemporary with a strong use of cut and shape. The SS13 collection takes hold of the quintessential elements of Optivity from the use of a clean

Atelier

colour palette with inspirational flicks of neon’s and blacks, to the functional almost child like shapes and panels. The garments are free of any embellishment and excessive over texturised fabrics, paling back to a simpler aesthetic thus increasing simplicity. Design details are key at Omelya, function and simplicity combined. Pleats and splits are mixed with panels and cut outs to create a sport-max style silhouette. The zips and functional aspects are concealed and the darts sharp and severe. Garments that are

Image Via omelyaatelier. com/ : SS13 promo shoot

Omelya Atel

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SS13

Atelier

THE LOOK styling, in this shoot all the rules are broken. Dresses with skirts and trousers, wide leg trousers and slit front dresses it’s all happening within this collection. A kitsch nod comes in the way of neon patent pointed toe stilettos. ‘Boo!’ But wait… the garish shoes clash beautifully Did someone say Doll? with the bold yet simple The advertising campaign outfits. has been photographed with a mixture of models Kostya is a new breed of and mannequins in ex- designer taking the doom pressional poses. The doll and gloom out of fashion, like modelling echoes the that we have seen rearing eccentric youth and fun of its ugly head over the past the shoot continuing the years. A new wave of optimism is coming and Ometheme of the collection. lya sure is ready… are you? Omelya says ‘what the hell’ when it comes to the not afraid to shout about their construction. In Optivity there is no shying away, clarity and creativity create a breath of fresh air from ‘fuddy duddy’ draping and excessive applique that the AW12 collections bought. We are heading into a new optic.

Clean Fresh Light Sheer Smart

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T H E LO O K

IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014

Technology Future Smart Fabrics Reflections

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T H E LO O K

IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014

You Str For Str

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T H E LO O K

th iking wards ong

IMAGES VIA Style.com Just Cavalli Resort 2014

olour Story

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P h ase T wo V i r t u a l : C o l o Virtual is the technological arm of Optivity, technology is becoming ever integrated into our lives and as learning comes back to us through Gamification and hacking. Consumers are wanting to customize and hack into their products in the home, technology at one point used to be wooden, it made the leap to the black and silver age and then eventually we were back to black with the plasma screen. Tomorrow is the age of the spectrum, reflected light, clear and glass effects are the way forwards. Flexi screens and outer casing of technology that can have the opacity changed leads the way for a new dimension with regards to technology.

The change in the way we view technology is fluences the colour palette of Virtual, a spec reflected grey shades and glass like blues hue an almost crystal like palette. The trend accen are the bright neon shades of green blue and d glow neon pink that contrasts with the key colo trend, which is white. All of the colours are in by interfaces and the glow of the screen that is ing ever more so key to our daily lives.

Colour is particularly important to Virtual, as being taken to a new level and interpreted in ent areas; this is a driver for this trend. What w

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by taken to another level is that companies are incorporating and examining colour and how they can use this to provide business success. Nike ID recently launched an app that can take a photo of your choice from your Instagram account and then create you a pair of trainers inspired and using the palette from your picture, this is then further customisable. Colour has previously been overlooked but for SS14 it will be a key business opportunity and research about the relationship between the consumer and colour will be integral.

colour is nto differwe mean

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abric Story

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Embellished printed smooth

Images Via petit and Fibres2Fabric

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Sheer Elastic Reversable

Images Via Lanzar and Gallus

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Grid Texture reformed synthetics Images Via Moden and Mitsubishi

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Plastics formed neoprene recycled smart Images Via petit and Lia Petit

ange Plan

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Boxy panel jersey printed oversized tunic

Sheer shirt with contrasting sleeves and fly opening button stand with side slits at side seams

Maxi two panel layered dress with back exposed zip and side slits on the side seams

Panel pencil skirt with applique fan panels and centre channels

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Loose shape tunic with a high neck and deep V back

Oversized sheer shirt dress with fly opening and large pockets.

Shirt jumpsuit with mock fly opening on the shirt and side zip fastening on the attached wide leg trousers.

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a n dra S im s L o ok

Alexandra

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T H E LO O K

Sims:Engineered Species Alexandra Sims collection combines a bright complex palette with intricate prints in a fun and exciting collection. The collection embodies the vivid vibrancy of the blessed phase and in particular the palette and strength in the styling. The photo-shoot itself we felt signified female iconography and the regality and power of the female, a strong theme in the Heat trend.

‘Futuristic florals juxtaposed with geometric prints fuels my signature collection. ‘Engineered Species’ is a six body, high-end, readyto-wear collection that explores notions of evolution and futuristic plants. My collection exudes an otherworldly aesthetic through the use of digital prints and structured silhouettes. My work investigates the need to adapt plants and animals

to a new planet due to the un-rep damage of climate change. The re undertook for my Graduate Collec plores how life itself interferes with design, modifying DNA to make species faster, superior and super â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Engineered Speciesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; composes o temporary silk and neoprene ga Illustrations of unusual species of are depicted and manipulated by s tation and rearrangement of each I have taken this approach in order

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pairable esearch I ction exh its own various strong. of conarments. flowers segmenh flower. r to cre-

ate a ‘new species’ of plant, which can adapt to a new planet and ecosystem for future generations. My collection delves into the unanswered question of evolution process throughout our time, investigating what the future may hold in terms of biological plant mass. The notion of transforming florals into ‘super-beings’ advances the typical ‘floral print’, which is seasonally seen as a fashion trend. Silhouette, print and colour-ways are key to my collection. The silhouette encompasses a bell-shape outline to depict the bulb of a flower, which is formed by neoprene fabric. Neoprene, an engineered fabric is a synthetic rubber material that is flexible, durable and resists breakdown in water. The fabric is micro-perforated, which makes it

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extremely light and increases breathability. This fabric was best suitable for my collection as it is structural in form, and its function replicates that of an “engineered species”. Accentuating the form of the female figure is imperative in relation to my concept, as florals are the representative object of the ‘female body’ in nature’s landscape. Illustrations are digitally printed onto neoprene in order to create an otherworldly experience for the wearer.’ Alexandra Sims

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Vibrant, cheeky and youthfulâ&#x20AC;Ś the look of blessed. The Carnival atmosphere leaks into every aspect of Blessed. The trend itself is based on the social revolution that is going on in Brazil at the moment with the new rising of social positive movements. Brazil is becoming a hub for entrepreneurship and craft within some of the poorest districts; this is giving way to a creative hub and a new bohemian feel. The look for Brazil is inspired

by creativity in this city, there is a strong connection between blessed and Brazilian street style, the more eclectic with this trend the better. Print clashing and layering fun and flirty shapes is key. Playful shorts and loose tunic and tops are combined with soft dresses and accessories to create a vibrant stand out look embodying the fun-loving culture of Brazil.

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All images Via Lookbook.nu

olour Story

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P h ase O ne B l e s s e d : C o l o

When most people think of Brazil what usually base notes such as woody brown and stone. The springs to mind? environment visually plays a key role in this phase and the palette explores all of the colours of this The vibrancy and electricity that fuels the nation is naturally blessed nation. colour. The lush green of the rainforest to the red and goldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of the carnival, colour is imperative in this trend. This phase of heat really cranks it up a level when it comes to colour, the trick is for the colour to be an explosion and not blocks of colour. The palette includes a messy explosion of fuchsia pink, saffron orange, grass green and beautiful skyline blues. Colours are rich and deep with rustic

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Florals Tropical Distorted Pixelated All images Via Petit

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Heavy Perforated Voile Texture All images Via Petit

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Distressed Embellished Stripes

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Formal Dungarees with elasticated waist and tapered trousers.

Loose fit jersey tunic with V neck and Large open pockets.

Loose fit jersey shift dress with cross over back and zip detail at neck back.

Elasticated waist high leg runner shorts with tie and piping detail

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High waisted, ruched leg tapered trousers in loose silk fabric with small high pockets with thin waist band

Utility duffle coat with contrasting pockets and hood, scrunched sleeves and elasticated panel around the waist.

Cropped loose fit jersey top with wide sleeves

Ruched elasticated mini skirt

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Brazil and Luxury Go HANd in han Brazil, a nation with a population of just under two hundred million is characterized by its rich natural resources and an extraordinary 60% of the Brazilian population are under the tender age of 30. A population with such a large percentage of young people is in no doubt a contributing factor with regards to our increasing obsession with this culturally rich nation.

ENOUGH WITH THE FORMALITIES So what do we know? Brazil is booming…BOOM

BOOM POW As a result of this the middle classes are increasing and make way for the new emerging affluent of Brazil.

This is increasingly effecting the British population… not spotted the start of it yet? Brands are businesses, from high street chain stores to highend beauty lines and where the money is, is where you will find the brands. In order for brands to remain competitive they must cater and adapt themselves to suit the customer. For many centuries the European

and American markets were the brands target market however over the past 20 years the BRIC economies have given way to a new emerging clientele, enter the emerging affluent of Brazil. Has your favourite brand recently become a little spicier? Perhaps its latest advertisement campaign is more colourful? Or features an increasing number of models of different ethnicities? Well you my friend are witnessing the adaption of western brands to cater to the emerging affluent.

* Reader Sighs * Now you see it…

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The key fact that is interesting us about Brazil at this moment in time is that despite growth falling by 4.1% between 2008 and 2010 to 2.2% between 2011 and 2013 in Brazil, that the unemployment rate has also continued to fall. The dismal present does not seem to be affecting its future outlook with companies continuing to hire. Initially suspecting ‘jiggery pokery’ we dug a little deeper and uncovered why this seems to be the case. The key drivers of this phenomenon are the changes in demographics. Brazil’s economy on the street level is doing well, the population is becoming increasingly wealthy, with many watching their wages increase by 10% or more and unemployment is at a record low. Now we know this isn’t reflected currently in the stock exchange so how do they do it? The labour market supply is shifting downwards due to the change in rising premiums for education in Brazil, thus the demand for labour is rising and has already risen considerably. More of the Brazilian population are staying in education or going back to education, say Forbes. There are less people who are able to work; meaning that more jobs are available to the unemployed. The strong labour market is also in itself pushing people into education, as individuals begin to consider the alternatives to working to enable them to ‘move up the ladder’. The Brazilian Institute for Geography and Statistics (IBGE) has collected some astonishing data showing how these shifts have affected the population, with the proportion of those with nine or more years of education compared to those with nine years or less almost doubling in the past decade, from 47.8% in 2004 to 80.8% in 2013. The education premium is clearly keeping the labour supply tight according to Forbes. The other key driver is the fact that Brazil is more so becoming a larger consumer society. Opening up more entry level and mid-level

luxury

roles in retail service jobs, and the general retail and catering sector. The more they consume the more human resources required to serve this growing society of consumers. It is also important to note that at the top end of the labour market engineers are in demand and are able to acquire a higher pay bracket than ever before. With unemployment decreasing it is no wonder that Brazil is giving rise to the emerging affluent but more important is the rise in the middle classes in Brazil. The favelas were once notorious with crime, poverty and occupants had next to no prospects however with unemployment decreasing, more and more of the population are lifting themselves, so to speak, out of the favelas. Their children are staying in education and for the first time, children of the favelas are securing stable jobs, not only in the labour market but also more excitingly as professionals. Ok so more of the Brazilian population are becoming middle class…but what does this mean? And how will it affect consumer trends for Spring 2014? In Britain we are currently facing the squeezed middle pandemic. The recession has launched businesses into re-organising and practising economies of scale as cost saving measures. The middle managers are all but disappearing from the structures of businesses; the workers on the ground and front line are taking on extra roles. So are the employees at the top in order to cap spiralling payrolls that are killing a company’s ability to operate a financially viable and competitive business model. These cost saving measures result in the workers who were previously in comfortable well-paid middle management jobs being made redundant, flooding the country with a wave of professionals who are unable to afford their mortgages and lifestyles, having a huge impact on retail as we know it. It is also important to note that with large numbers of British students graduating every year, the competition for jobs increases year on year

and with proportionally small amounts of new jobs being created every year, Britain is in crisis.

* Reader sheds a tear * Hark…all is not lost. So Britain seems pretty gloomy you’d think for the season of spring summer 2014 however that in fact is not the case. Keep calm and carry on is what sang true in previous times of adversity in Britain and so it will again. This season we look to Brazil for inspiration and look to use it to our advantage, piggy backing on Brazil as it rides the wave of prosperity (Quite a visual). British companies will be looking for ways to cash in on the boom in Brazil. The world cup in Brazil being Britain’s first chance, businesses will be throwing themselves into the Brazilian spirit putting on a brave face and encouraging and influencing us all to join in the celebratory fun. The British consumer was primed in 2012 by the Olympics and the companies know from that, that the British can party (and indeed spend) like they do in Brazil. So you just try to avoid the Brazilian heat on the British streets for 2014… It will get you.

No profession in the world screams ‘I’m filthy rich’ more so than the world of professional football. As 2014 is the year for football there is no doubt that spotlight once again refocuses on luxury, unashamed luxury that is. Hotels, planes, cars, labels, holidays… and watches shall we say. You name it, they’ve got it and that’s just the footballers wives and girlfriends. The new and old money will be in Brazil for the world cup in 2014 and the British media will once again be flooded with our old friends

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Dolce & Gabbana. Luxury my friend is back.

‘Hurrrahhhh!’ Scream the millionaires. Britain will do its best to ‘fake it till it makes it’ with a potential increase in what the independent describes as ‘affordable designers’ such as Radley, Ted Baker and Paul Smith. Diffusion lines will be in demand and as we’ve already all ‘cashed our gold’ consumers will be looking for that luxury look product. For what the UK market lack in funds at the present- they make up for in desire for the product.

Back to Brazil The emerging middle classes are fuelling global realignment, in which the middle class centre of gravity is moving eastward. As we discussed before designer labels are now catering to a new market and so it is natural that the goods we buy and that are available to the UK are naturally going to be catering to this emerging market more so than western market. A shift in what the western consumer is used to. This is no more prevalent than in the luxury sector. However it is important to note one key difference… western and eastern culture are two totally different structures. It can be said that the western culture is one of mass. We love that we can go to Mc Donald’s in the UK and get the same meal as we can in the Las Vegas branch, and though we have toyed with the ideas of moving away from the mass and returning to the bespoke its hard for the western world to part with the habit of a lifetime. Literally. The same cannot be said for the Eastern world; there is no such thing as Chindia, (for those slow witted that’s China and India) China, India, Brazil and Russia are all completely different in culture. There is no common link with regards to their

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market tastes apart from the fact that they’re all booming or set to boom. With this in mind, we are seeing an increasing number of companies having to throw away their previous one size fits all policy that they have used for the western market since the beginning of the modern world as we know it. Labels such as Estee Lauder are sinking huge amounts of money into developing products specifically and separately for the Indian, Brazilian and Chinese market. This in itself is a huge undertaking for the brand but it is essential. Brands not willing to adapt to this new market will dry up as there are countless other companies waiting in their shadow to scoop up their business. The western world will see the influence of the East and Brazil increasing rapidly in our dayto-day lives. Embrace it, as the shadow hiding spaces are getting smaller day-by-day.

Global happenings cannot emphasise enough the importance of Brazil in spring summer 2014 and beyond and with the world looking to Brazil over 2014 and then again to 2016. The key thing to take is … Don’t stand by the side-lines, or be a spectator! Jump in, immerse yourself in the Brazilian spirit, the rising Brazilian middle class will effect how and what the UK purchases and wants to purchase so adapt to the Latino vibe and provide your consumer with affordable luxury. Don’t be a bore… be Brazilian- and an affluent one at that!

Luxe-JeT

S pr i n g _ S u m m e r 1 4 Inspiration Dolce & Gabbana is at the top of the fashion game alongside the industries notorious big names such as Gucci and Prada. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana as a brand took the world by storm in the 1980â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, which is relatively recent for such an acclaimed fashion house. The Milanese duo first met in 1980 whilst working under Giorgio Correggiari and by 1986 debuted their first collection, which was a roaring success. The pairing, skills wise, combines the strong technical tailoring background of Dolce and Gabbanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s graphic design skills to create highly successful collections year on year, being one of the most commercially successful high end designers brands.

understanding of tailoring. Resulting in the Women want to be seen in Dolce & Gab- brand creating its own modern heritage for bana, it combines artisanship and an un- what it may lack over some of the other big derstanding of the female silhouette to name design houses. create collections with sex appeal whilst empowering females. A tricky balancing Aside from Dolce & Gabbana’s ready-toact that they complete successfully with al- wear focus, they are also enterprising and most every collection. Since the 1980’s the have taken full advantage of their brand flash and fetishism undertones have made name and the luxury price it demands. them a hit with the pop princesses such as You name it… they sell it. Womenswear Kylie Minogue and Beyoncé, they’ve been to menswear and juniorwear to fragrances known to don the clothes both on and off they have extended their brand to cover all the stage and the boys will always remain markets. The youthful diffusion line D&G has also enabled the brand to become their go to designers. more accessible to a new market and to The boys know how to provide flash and introduce the youthful generation to their drama however the brand has transitioned; first taste of the boys. one might even say it has grown up, over the past few years. Dolce & Gabbana are In 2003 the boys ceased their private renow combining sophistication and an im- lationship however have continued their maculate aesthetic showing off their real strong brand name and are continuously

evolving wh na. The boy ture and th space.

As the boy ready-to-w Domenico native Sicil tion. The co wear feel, w es, oversize palette was zoned with but besides use of strip create a sop The collect up with no les and the dress.

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hat we know as Dolce & Gabbays are also dabbling in architeche travel industry to watch this

ys never disappoint, their latest wear collection was no exception. and Stefano transpired back to ly for inspiration for this collecollection had a grown up resort with soft casual tailored dressed tunics and flowing skirts. The s primarily Russian Red emblah Wheat Gold and Pottery Blue s the palette were the incredible pes and how they were used to phisticated and yet casual look. tion was most definitely grown o peepholes, straps and bucke only gimmick was a flour sack

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This collection embodies how resort wear can become sophisticated and luxurious but still remain vibrant and fun. As we look to Brazil for 2014 the passion of the nation is in no doubt going to heavily influence fashion however you wont see a pineapple or palm tree print in sight. Dolce & Gabbana SS14 combines the luxury and grown up feel and this will be affecting the collections of SS14, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had years of festival and tribal inspired summer wear however the influence of this collection will be pushing us towards the sophisticated aesthetic for 2014.

blouses. The square neckline was used primarily on dresses with slash necklines that gathered at the front for blouses. There were also wide V-necks and crew necks on jackets and tunics. The sleeves were oversized and wide with large openings and often protruded out, this detail stopped the collection from being a total call back to the classic.

The accessories were 1950â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in style with peep toe sling back pumps and raffia wedges, all super commercial styles. Headscarves and oversized bucket bags finished off the super wearable looks with large almost Necklines were one of the key dream catcher style earrings. elements of this collection; all were moderate however the boys used an array of different ones on jackets, dresses and

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The influence of Dolce and Gabbana will be strong for the Luxe-Jet phase of the heat trend and its driven, not by the colour palette but in fact by the shapes and details of the collection and the ability to create grown up sophisticated resort wear that still has the feel good appeal but screams luxury.

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Furstenberg

Luxe-JeT

S pr i n g _ S u m m e r 1 4 Inspiration

Diane Von Furstenburg is one of the design world’s strongest women, if not the strongest woman after Coco Chanel. The understanding of the feminine icon she brings to her collections is what makes her an aspirational as well as wearable designer, her collections of recent have showered the audience with optimism and vibrancy with an ease of wear free of constraining details. The modern say super woman’s attire… “Some fairy tales end with the girl marrying the prince... some start there.” So read the quote at the top of the program notes for Diane von Furstenberg’s Spring show, which she

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and her creative director, Yvan Mispelaere, dubbed “Palazzo.” You can see where this is going. The girl in question is none other than von Furstenberg herself. She’s led quite a life. Anytime the design partners don’t channel it on the runway is a missed opportunity, and today it yielded a collection that was colorful, confident, and keyed in to some of this fashion moment’s big trends.

sits at the top of a huge business enterprise, but what this outing did was tap into the designer’s peripatetic, bohemian spirit. With their pearl studding and bright color-blocking, boardroom suits these were not. And caftans outnumbered the wrap dresses on which she originally built her name. Whether they were day or evening, the dresses were paired with narrowly cut trousers, like the locals in Marrakech and downtown These days, von Furstenberg Manhattan wear them.

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As if to remind us that she’s the adventurous soul she’s always been, von Furstenberg has partnered with Google to make a behind-the-scenes film using its new Glass technology. She filmed her experience in the week leading up to the show using the glasses and, like some of her models, wore them down the runway to take her bow. If only Google had been around in von Furstenberg’s early days. Now that’s a video we’d like to see.

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Furstenberg

Brazil street style is chic and elegant, with luxurious fabrics and relaxed yet formal styling. The Brazilian way of life plays way to the confident woman who isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afraid to wear tailoring on a daily basis, sexuality is shown not through hot pants and plunging necklines but maybe by a sub-

tle slit on a maxi skirt or a delicately sheer blouse. Elegance being the key, lookbook.nu showcases the best of the laid back confident way in which the luxurious set in Brazil dress. These women in Brazil embody the LuxeSet trend.

T H E LO O K

All images Via Lookbook.nu

olour Story

P h ase t wo L u x e - S e t : C o l

“Some people think luxury is the opposite of pov- almost like liquid gold with the sheen and adds the erty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.” Coco element of luxury. The Trend colour’s are still deep Chanel and luxurious but combine a vivid echo and spice of Brazil. Warmth is added to the palette with rich The Luxe-Set of Brazil are the new business wom- burgundies and rustic orange shades that when en who have overcame adversity and are now the combined create a rich and yet nods to the natural. new in demand customer. Luxury takes a turn for No space for tack in this palette. the indulgent in the Luxe-set colour palette; time waits for woman of the world. The base colours are deep and rich with passionate aubergines and champagne hues complimented by crystal like jades. The metallic stone shades look

B A SE CO LO U R S

PANTONE 7527C

PANTONE 7697C

PANTONE7448C

PANTONE 697C

PANTONE 7585C

PANTONE 5185C

PAN

PANTONE 5835C

PANTONE 4715C

PANTONE 4C

PAN

l o ur

PANTONE 564C

PANTONE 4745C

NTONE 7463C

PANTONE 7591C

NTONE 5773C

PANTONE7544C

abric Story

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Luxurious Metallic Geometric

Images from top left clockwise: Lanzar;; Gallus; Moden; peiti;petit;petit

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Repeat prints Satin Silk Images from top left clockwise: All images from Mazara

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Burnout Laser Cut Digital Mirrored Images from top left clockwise: Ishtar; Romo; Moden; peiti;petit;Tula

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Geometric Tribal Reflected

Images from top left clockwise: All images from Mazara

ange Plan

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Large lapel boyfriend blazer

Loose fit camisole with spaghetti straps

Panel bodycon dress with sheer shoulder and back panel.

Loose fit elasticated waist jumpsuit, with keyhole back opening and spaghettui straps.

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Elasticated waist maxi skirt with wrap over gathered detail.

Crossover ruched at shoulder dress with exposed zip down the centre back

Elasticated waist loose fit joggers with exposed contrast side panel crossover.

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