The Straight Talk About the Stalk

STRAIGHT TALK ABOUT THE Stalk

BY MICHELE JACOBSON

Unpretentious celery is having a moment, but this is not its first time in the spotlight. Native to the salty shores of the Mediterranean basin, celery was domesticated by resourceful Italian cooks in the 17th century. One hundred years later it wended its way across the pond, where it was regarded as the fanciest of vegetables, its leafy stalks filling the crystal vases on fashionable Victorian-era American tables.

Celery-mania spread in the U.S. because it was considered safe to eat raw, an uncommon practice in the 19th century. Farmers in Kalamazoo, Michigan - celebrated as Celeryville USA - began successful cultivation in the late 1800’s. Celery became so prized that it cost more than caviar! In 1891, it became a California crop, where the temperate climate allowed farmers to grow and harvest it year-round. Today, over 80 percent of the commercial supply is grown in the Golden State.

Celery had a good, long run but by the 1970’s it was relegated to olive’s sidekick in a Bloody Mary, or carrot’s cohort on a tray of crudité, though the carrot sticks always got eaten first, the withering ribs of celery left by the wayside, lonesome and sad.

But celery is enjoying its second coming. This rise in popularity can anecdotally be credited to Anthony William, aka the Medical Medium, who says that juice from one large bunch, consumed daily, detoxifies the body and potentially cures ailments from acne to autoimmunity, including most chronic illness. According to William, this information was conveyed from the spirit world. But while celery consumption is certainly healthy, his claims are not based on, nor supported by, science. William also advises straining the juice prior to drinking, which depletes it of fiber, an important nutritional component. Nevertheless, Americans love a good cure-all, and so the rise in celery sales has been stratospheric. In one calendar year wholesale prices have soared, from just eight to over sixty dollars per carton, according to The Packer, a news site for the produce industry.

Crunchy with a delicate salinity, celery is primarily made of water. Each two-stalk serving contains only twelve calories, and has ten percent of the RDA for fiber, along with vitamins A, C and K, folate, potassium, and numerous antioxidants. Two of these are apigenin, an anti-inflammatory agent, and luteolin, a flavonoid, which may have potential as a cancer therapy. Celery is relatively high in sodium, with about 88 mg. per cup, but instead of causing the body to retain water, it instead acts as a diuretic, helping to reduce blood pressure. This effect comes from potent phytochemicals called phthalates, which relax artery walls and increase blood flow, overall benefiting cardiovascular health, according to the Cleveland Clinic. Recommended consump-

tion is four celery ribs per day. Celery is a healthful elimination aid, and is also considered a natural tooth cleanser, more attributes of its fibrous component. It should be noted that blanching celery (the practice of covering the plant during growth to keep it white) results in a decreased nutrient content.

Celery is a member of the parsley family; in fact, if you need fresh parsley but have none on hand, minced celery leaves can stand in, with flavor and style. Americans eat the Pascal variety, a cultivar that is primarily stalk. Also called a petiole, the stalk functions as a plant stem, bringing nutrients to the celery leaves. The tender inner ribs are called celery hearts. Giant Red celery is also grown in the U.S., though this variety, with its pink hearts and hardy flavor, is less readily available.

Different types of celery are popular around the world. Chinese celery, or leaf celery, is widely used in Asia. It has a stronger flavor and thinner stalks than the Pascal we are used to. Eastern medicine dictates that Chinese celery is beneficial for liver and gallbladder health. In Europe, celeriac, or celery root, is more frequently used than stalk varieties. It has a similar, but stronger, flavor profile, a long shelf life, and can be eaten raw or cooked. Wild celery, or smallage, is also widely available in European countries. The wispy stems of wild celery are rarely eaten, Instead, the plant is harvested for its leaves and seeds, both of which are considered medicinal. Celery leaves are a good source of vitamin E, calcium and iodine. Studies show that celery seed can help lower blood pressure and cholesterol, as well as help protect the liver.

Celery has long enjoyed its reputation as an aphrodisiac, though the evidence for this attribute is anecdotal. It contains androsterone, a naturally occurring steroid hormone that is also found in male sweat. When females of a species pick up on this scent, they really seem to like it. A lot. So, men, eat your celery with caution, or reckless abandon. (Interestingly, androsterone is the same scent truffle-hunting pigs are drawn to.)

Unbeknownst to most Americans, celery is second only to peanuts as a severe allergen and, for some, exposure can lead to anaphylactic shock. Celery allergies are most common in Europe, where it is always listed with other allergens on a menu. Celery root, or celeriac, contains more allergen than the stalk, and seeds contain the highest levels of allergen content. Celery also contains vitamin K, which can potentially affect the effectiveness of blood-thinning medications.

Experts agree that any benefit experienced from celery juice consumption is more likely because other, less healthy, foods have been eliminated and replaced with the juice.

Tips for Buying and Storing Celery

Fresh celery should have firm green stalks with intact leaves. Organic is highly recommended because conventionally grown celery is typically sprayed with up to thirteen types of pesticides. The stalks tend to retain these toxins due to their porosity. Because of this, the Environmental Working Group lists celery as a top offender on its Dirty Dozen list.

Celery stored in a plastic bag will leave you with soggy, sullen stalks. The plastic traps the natural ethylene gas that celery releases and accelerates the ripening process, causing it to decompose. To keep your celery fresher, longer, wrap the entire head tightly in foil, then store it in the crisper. Cut celery stalks keep best in a waterfilled, sealed container.

Now, back to that celery juice craze. The supporting science for celery’s health effects is based on whole stalks, and not the juice. Experts agree that any benefit experienced from celery juice consumption is more likely because other, less healthy, foods have been eliminated and replaced with the juice. Fresh juice should be made from well-cleaned stalks of organic celery, along with the leaves, and consumed right away, un-strained. The nutritional value of celery decreases quickly because of microbial and enzymatic activity, according to Dr. Kantha Shelke, a nutritional scientist at Johns Hopkins. She recommends pasteurized juice over fresh because the process not only kills off microbes, but also makes some of celery’s bioactive compounds more absorbable. Of the two types of pasteurization, HPP (high pressure pasteurization) instead of heat pasteurization results in a fresher tasting juice. Either way, they provide the consumer with a safer product, while still maintaining their nutrient value. Dr. Shelke adds that the consumption of large amounts of celery juice has an unknown effect on the system, so she does not encourage it.

Celery is having a well-deserved moment, collecting its’ kudos like kale, cauliflower and avocado before it. What’s up next? I could sing the praises of a parsnip.

Celery is frequently used as recipe starter, with various formulations and ratios depending on the cuisine.

Mirepoix (French) - onions, celery, carrots, 2:1:1 Soffritto (Italian) - onions, celery, carrots, 2:1:1, or Battuto with added garlic and parsley Suppengrün (German) - celery or celeriac, carrots, leeks, 1:1:1

Holy Trinity (Cajun and

Creole) - onion, celery, green pepper, 1:1:1

Here are some recipes that showcase the stalk, as a salad, a soup, a side and a pickle.

Waldorf Salad This simple yet iconic salad was created at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City, circa 1896. The original recipe was comprised of apples, celery and mayonnaise. Of the many variations, the simple addition of walnuts works best.

Ingredients

1 cup diced celery 1 cup diced cored, peeled apples 1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts 1/2 to 3/4 cup mayonnaise Lettuce leaves

Directions:

1. Combine all ingredients and serve, chilled, on a bed of lettuce.

Vegan Celery Soup This easy, vegan soup gets its creamy texture from potatoes.

Ingredients

4 Tbsp. vegan buttery spread, such as

Earth Balance 1 head of celery with leaves, cut into chunks (retain some chopped leaves for garnish) 1 onion, chopped 3 cloves of garlic, chopped 2 potatoes, peeled and diced 1/8 tsp. dried red pepper 4 cups mild vegetable broth 3/4 cup chopped, fresh herbs (a combination of parsley and dill works best!) Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. In a soup pot, melt butter substitute. When shimmering, add celery, onion, garlic and potatoes.

Sauté until onion is softened, but not browned, about 10 minutes. 2. Add broth and bring to a gentle boil. Cover and simmer for another 20 minutes. 3. Remove pot from heat and puree, preferably with an immersion blender. 4. Add chopped herbs, and season with salt and pepper to taste. 5. Can be served hot or cold, garnished with chopped leaves.

Braised Celery Braising celery by first sautéing it and then allowing it to soften in broth results in an unexpectedly savory side dish.

Ingredients

1 large head of celery, washed and dried, leaves chopped and set aside for garnish 2 tablespoons of butter or alternative (if using olive oil, use 1 tbsp. combined with 1 tbsp. of butter or alternative) 3/4 cup vegetable broth Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:

1. Cut the celery into neat, 1 inch slices (on the diagonal works nicely!) 2. On medium heat, melt fat in a sauté pan until shimmering. Add the celery, and sauté until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. 3. Add broth to pan, and season with salt and pepper. 4. Continue cooking until celery is soft and liquid has almost evaporated. 5. Correct seasoning and garnish with chopped celery leaves. Simple Pickled Celery Thanks to Yumiko of RecipeTin Japan for sharing this recipe!

Ingredients

3 stalks of celery 200ml (6.8 oz) of boiled water 10g (0.35 oz) salt (You can adjust the saltiness to your liking) 1/2 tbsp. lemon rind, julienned (If you can find yuzu citrus, this is preferred) 1/2 tsp. sliced chili (optional)

Directions:

1. Add the salt to the boiled water and mix well to dissolve. Allow to cool down to room temperature. 2. Slice celery into 5mm (3/8”) slices diagonally. 3. Put the salty water into a zip lock plastic bag.

Add celery, lemon rind and chili. Shake the bag so that the salty water coats every celery piece. 4. Seal the zip lock bag, removing as much air from the bag as possible. Leave it in the fridge for at least half a day to pickle. 5. To serve, drain salty water and place in a small plate or a bowl.